Thursday, September 12, 2019

Bound For Croatia

"A record of almost 20 million tourists visited Croatia in 2018, announced the Croatian Tourist Board this week. This is 6.5% more than in 2017 and a new record in Croatian tourism history. Istria was the most popular region this year, followed by the Split, Kvarner, Zadar and Dubrovnik."
--TheMayor.eu

"In the first 8 months of 2019, 5% more tourists have visited Croatia than in the same period of the record-breaking 2018,..."
--Croatia Week

It seems that everywhere you look, Croatia is being showcased as the hot new tourist destination. The hugely popular TV series, Game of Thrones, has contributed to this popularity as a variety of scenes were shot in numerous locations in Croatia. Every week, it seems a different celebrity is seen vacationing in Croatia, basking on one of their beaches, dining in one of their restaurants, or appearing at some event. The growing, record-breaking number of tourists is indicative of the country's popularity.

The country has much to offer, from its pristine beaches to its ancient history, from its diverse cuisine to its historic wine industry. If you want a more active vacation, from water sports to hiking, Croatia can meet your needs. If you want a quieter time, you can spend your hours on the Croatian beaches. All you need to do is peruse some photos of beautiful Croatia and you'll feel a pull to visit.

Later this afternoon, I'll board a plane and fly off to Zagreb, the first stop on my exploration of the Republic of Croatia. I'll be accompanying a small group of writers and wine lovers as well explore this fascinating country, visiting numerous wineries, dining on the local cuisine, immersing ourselves in its culture, and delving its historic past. We have plans to visit places including Zagreb, Dubrovnik, Gradac, Split, Ston, Brac Island, and more. I'm obviously very excited to visit this country for the first time, and have spent the last few months researching much about Croatia.

For example, did you know "Croatia was the birthplace of the oldest documented European vampire?" Check out this article from Total Croatia News to learn more about that fun fact. Maybe I better ensure I eat plenty of garlic while I'm in Croatia.

Most of the trip is being sponsored by the K7 Cooperative, an association of seven wineries in the Komarna region, including Rizman Winery, Saints Hill WinesVolarević WinesTerra Madre, Modro-zelenaNeretvanski Branitelj and Deak Family Farm. K7 is working with Boston-based Croatian Premium Wine Imports, which is owned and operated by Mirena Bagur and Win Burke, wife and husband. Mirena (who is Croatian) and Win have recently started importing Croatian wines to Massachusetts and they will be our guides throughout most of our visit to Croatia.

Thus, many of the wines that I'll review and write about, in the weeks after my return from Croatia, are either available in Massachusetts now or will be in the future. Some Croatian wines have been previously imported by other companies, but they have remained relatively rare in wine shops and on restaurant lists. Mirena and Win have been working hard to make Croatian wines more available to local consumers, and they have also been leading a number of local tastings of Croatian wines. It is such passion which is needed to persuade consumers to taste and purchase Croatian wine.

Currently, four of the K7 wineries have wines in the Massachusetts market, and I've been fortunate to sample several of them, enjoying what I've tasted. Whites, Reds and Rosé. Indigenous grapes like Posip and Plavac Mali. A number of local restaurants and wine shops now carry these wines, although the public needs to learn more about them, to be given reasons why they should drink these wines. Two of the reasons include that these wines are delicious and food friendly.

The history of wine in Croatia extends back over 2500 years, with the Greeks and Romans responsible for much of the early viticulture. For example, the Stari Grad Plain, on the island of Hvar, was colonized by Greeks during the 4th century B.C. Vineyards have been continuously planted here for over 2400 consecutive years and it's now a UNESCO World Heritage site!

The Komarna Appellation is relatively new, having first been planted with vines in 2008 and having received its official designation as an appellation in 2013. We'll spend time exploring Komarna, visiting the K7 wineries. In addition, we'll also visit wineries in other regions of Croatia, such as Grgić Vina, which was established in 1996 by Napa Valley winemaker Miljenko Grgich and his daughter, Violet. In addition, we'll visit some historic sites, such as the Narona Archaeological Museum, Diocletian's Palace,  and a few sites where Game of Thrones was filmed.

Prior to this year, I've had only very limited experience with Croatian wine and food. I previously reviewed the 2010 Vinarija Dingac Peljesac, which ended up on my list of the 2014 Top Ten Wines Under $15. I also reviewed Paški Sir, a compelling Croatian cheese from the island of Pag.

I'll have a couple days on my own as well, mostly in Zagreb, so I'll be checking out whatever intrigues me, from a Lord of the Rings themed-pub to another Bar that specializes in rakijas, brandy spirits, from the Dolac Market to Cahun (an 80+ year old hat shop). I'll explore Tkalčićeva Street, which once was filled with brothels, the first legal red light district in Europe. FYI, those brothels no longer exist. Tkalčićeva Street is now filled with restaurants, shops and bars, and is one of the most popular streets in Zagreb.

Plus, on September 14, there will be a #WineLovers Hangout at the Pod Zidom Bistro & Wine Bar in Zagreb. Organized by Luiz Alberto, Saša Špiranec, and Ana Hozjan, this will be a BYOB dinner bringing together wine lovers from all over the world. What bottles will I bring to this dinner? I've already made my choice and I won't say yet but I'm sure no one else will bring a similar bottle.

I look forward to everything I'll experience in Croatia, and then I'll enjoy sharing my stories with my readers.

As they say in Croatia, Živjeli! ("Cheers")

A writer who falls in love with a new and strange country will always find experience heightened in this way. The dawns are more noble, the crags loftier, the people more genuine, the food and wine more luscious....
Black Lamb and Grey Falcon by Rebecca West

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