Tuesday, November 5, 2019

Harvey's Bristol Cream Sherry: A Historic & Best-selling Brand

Back in 2010, after a visit to Bodegas Harvey in Jerez, I wrote, "Forget about Harveys Bristol Cream."

So why am I writing about it now?

In my previous article, my point wasn't that you should actually ignore Harvey's Bristol Cream, but rather that you should understand that Bodegas Harvey also produces other compelling Sherries, such as their VORS line, aged 30+ years. International Sherry Week is now taking place, from November 4-10, a celebration of the wonders of Sherry, a time for the ardent promotion of this fascinating and delicious wine. As such, it's a good time to revisit Harvey's Bristol Cream.

For some history and background information on Bodegas Harvey, please read my previous article. It's may be the only winery in the world that has alligators and albino peacocks on their estate.

What is a Cream Sherry? It's a sweet Sherry, commonly created from a base of an Oloroso, sweetened with some Pedro Ximenez (PX). One of the legends concerning the invention of cream sherry states that a few centuries ago, at the end of the night at Spanish taverns, some of the customers would order a a "small brunette." This was a tavern blend of about 80% Oloroso and 20% PX, which was sweet and had a creamy texture. British sailors eventually tried this blended Sherry and loved it, starting its popularity overseas.

There is another origin tale as well, that Harvey's were the creators of Cream Sherry, and even if they weren't the original inventors of this style, they may have created its name and certainly popularized the use of the term Cream Sherry. Since the 17th century in Bristol, England, "milk sherry" was popular, a thick blend of sweet and dry sherries. There is a legend concerning the origin of milk sherry, as it was thought to be the first moisture given to infants in Bristol.

In the 1840s, Harvey's Bristol Milk was a best seller but the company had a desire to make a finer blend. Around 1860, it's claimed that an aristocratic woman visited the offices of Harvey's, and tasted some of the Bristol Milk. She then tasted the new, finer sherry, and said "If the first was Bristol Milk, then this must surely be Bristol Cream." Harvey's Bristol Cream became hugely popular, eventually coming to the U.S. in 1933.

Let's take a brief exploration of some of the early history of Harvey's Bristol Cream. The popularity and prestige of Harvey's Bristol Cream was quite evident in 1880. In newspaper articles in the Western Mail (Wales), May 31, 1880 and The Times (London), June 1, 1880, it was reported that the estate of Mr. Cartwright would be sold by Chrisitie's at auction on July 1. Mr. Cartwright had owned one of the country's largest wine cellars, and it included over 150 dozen cases of Sherry including both Harvey's Bristol Milk and Bristol Cream, both bottled in 1862.

The Chicago Tribune, July 21, 1880, reported on the results of the auction, noting that a "dark golden sherry known as Bristol Milk" sold for 106-111 shillings per dozen. However, the Bristol Cream, an "old pale sherry," sold for 250-260 shillings per dozen. This was the highest amount ever paid at auction for a Sherry, until 1901. During the next twenty years after the 1880 auction, there would be other auctions, held at other venues, which would sell cases of Bristol Cream for much less, from 86-140 shillings, partially due to a diminished market for Sherry at the end of the 19th century.

Its record price was broken at another Christies's auction, in July 1901. The Buffalo Commercial (NY), July 29 1901, noted that "golden sherry from cellars of Sandringham House" sold for 570 shillings a dozen, more than twice the price paid for the Bristol Cream back in 1880. However, the Bristol Cream retained the record for the 19th century.

This advertisement is from The Times (London), March 30, 1912, referring to Bristol Cream as one of "Spain's Royal Wine." It is priced at 105 shillings, which is likely for a case.

As I mentioned, Harvey's Bristol Cream was first exported to the U.S. in 1933, and the first newspaper I found that mentioned it was The San Francisco Examiner, November 9, 1933. It was an advertisement for L.P. Ginsburg & Company, an importer, offering to sell several of Harvey's Sherries and Ports, with the Bristol Cream priced at a wholesale price of $64 for a case of 12 bottles.

The Record (NJ), April 20, 1934, presented an ad for the sale of a large amount of alcohol that had been confiscated by the U.S. government from tourists over the previous 19 years. Under "Wines Fit for Kings and Queens," Harvey's Bristol Cream was listed, though no prices were posted in the advertisement. It was in excellent company, considering the other wines listed in this grouping.

One of the first mentions of a retail price for Harvey's Bristol Cream Sherry occurred in The Montclair Times, October 12, 1934, stating it cost $4.95/bottle and $57.75/case.

The Chicago Tribune, October 26, 1934, ran an ad for Stop & Shop, with a large section for Harvey's wines, including a photo of the "Full Pale Sherry Bristol Cream." It was priced at $4.95/bottle. There were three other of Harvey's Sherries listed, priced from $1.95-$2.95, indicating the Bristol Cream was the most expensive. At this point, Harvey's had not taken on its iconic blue bottle.

During the rest of 1934 through 1935, there were numerous retail ads for Harvey's Bristol Cream, all across the country, with prices ranging from $4.49-$6.25/bottle. Some of the lower prices were sale prices. The highest price, $6.25, was in an ad in The Baltimore Sun, December 16, 1934, which also mentioned that it was "Aged for 50 years in the wood in Harvey's famous caves. This is the choicest old full pale Sherry."

The Pittsburgh Post-Gazette, February 3, 1937, posted an interesting ad, boasting about the quality of Harvey's Bristol Cream.

A similar ad was posted in the Los Angeles Times, February 10, 1937.

Interestingly, the price of Harvey's Bristol Cream appeared to decrease in 1938, with prices generally from $4.00-$4.95, including regular prices.

A new ad, similar to the two prior, was launched in the Los Angeles Times, April 4, 1940.

Let's jump ahead almost fifty years. In 1996, in honor of Harvey's 200th anniversary, they began to bottle their Bristol Cream in a "Bristol Blue" bottle. The city of Bristol used to be the main point of supply for Saxon cobalt oxide, a coloring staff which created a deep blue color. Some members of the company had initial concerns about the blue bottle. In Europe, poison was once sold in small blue bottles so there were worries that the blue bottle would fail but it ended up being a big success. Recently, Harvey's changed the bottle slightly, adding a label with thermochromic ink which turns blue when the bottle reaches a perfect temperature of 50-55 degrees Fahrenheit.

Harvey's Bristol Cream Sherry ($24.99) is also more unique as rather than just a blend of Oloroso and PX, it is a blend of 80% Fino, Amontillado, Oloroso and 20% PX. It's also a blend of more than 30 soleras, aged from 3-20 years. With a 17.5% ABV, it's smooth and creamy, sweet though not overly so, with notes of raisins, nuts, caramel, dried fruit, and brown sugar. It's easy drinking, something for a pleasing after dinner drink, or paired with desserts, like a Pear Crostata with Blue Cheese. And once you open a bottle, it should last for about a month in your refrigerator. This would be a fun choice for the holidays, especially to pair with your holiday pies and other sweets.

Sip a little history with Harvey's Bristol Cream Sherry!

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