The Passionate Foodie

Rant: Want Whipped Cream On Your Monte Cristo Sandwich?

2012-01-30T04:00:00.131-05:00

I love a good Monte Cristo sandwich and as I have been eating them for years, I have tasted them at a wide variety of restaurants. Despite my love for this sandwich, there is an element that I dislike and fail to understand.

A Monte Cristo sandwich is essentially ham, turkey and Swiss cheese between two pieces of French toast, though there are plenty of regional variations across the country. For example, the cheese might be different, the sandwich might be grilled or fried, it may contain spicy mustard, and so on. No one seems to know the exact origins of the Monte Cristo though it is believed to be a variation of the French croque-monsieur, which is a grilled ham and cheese sandwich that was invented around 1910.

One of the Monte Cristo's most well known appearances occurred in 1966 at Disneyland in Anaheim, California. Though it likely existed before this time, the Monte Cristo appeared on their menu of the Blue Bayou restaurant in Disneyland and became quite popular. As for the name itself, it might have been inspired by the novel, The Count of Monte Cristo by Alexander Dumas though that is pure conjecture.

To my dismay, many Monte Cristo sandwiches are dusted with powdered sugar, and accompanied by maple syrup or fruit jam/preserves. I have previously discussed my dislike of powdered sugar and I don't understand its addition to a savory sandwich. What about turkey, ham and Swiss calls out for powdered sugar? Or maple syrup and jam/preserves? Absolutely nothing. I want a savory sandwich for lunch not dessert as my entree.

It seems that the draw for these sweet additions is the use of French toast. If you receive a plate of French toast for breakfast, it will often be dusted with powdered sugar and accompanied by maple syrup. I dislike that as well, as I don't want dessert for breakfast either. I don't think the mere use of French toast in the Monte Cristo warrants these sweet accompaniments. French toast sometimes comes with whipped cream too. Would you want that on your Monte Cristo? All the sweetness of powdered sugar and maple syrup covers the taste of the meats and cheese.

So keep all that sweetness away from my Monte Cristo! Or can someone make me understand the allure of these sweet additions?

Port Pleasures at the Boston Wine Expo

2012-01-27T04:00:00.003-05:00

"All wine would be Port if it could."
--Portuguese Proverb

The Center for Wine Origins has declared that today is Port Day, a celebration of this unique fortified wine from Portugal. As part of my own observance for this day, I wanted to present some reviews of Ports that I recently tasted at the Boston Wine Expo. Each year at the Expo, there are usually at least a dozen Ports, from several different producers, available for tasting so it is a good opportunity to learn about this fortified wine. It remains an under appreciated wine, but there is hope that interest in Port may be growing.

Wine tasting can be tricky as so many factors can be involved which will affect your thoughts on a wine. Bottle variation, the setting of the tasting, food pairing (if any), your mood, and so much more. There are times that a wine might not impress me but which will seem so much better at a different tasting. That is why retasting wines can sometimes be beneficial, especially if the first tasting was done under less than ideal circumstances. I experienced just such a case at the Boston Wine Expo.

I am a fan of the wines of Herdade do Esporão and most recently had attended a wine dinner at Harvest that showcased some of their wines, including the 2008 Quinta dos Murças Reserva Red, which was also at the Expo. I retasted it at the Expo and was still as enthralled with it as at previous tastings, and it had even made my list 2011: Top Ten Wines Over $15. Last summer, while at a Le Cirque wine dinner, I tasted their Quinta dos Murças 10 Year Old Tawny Port which I enjoyed but it did not impress.

But when I tasted it once again at the Expo, my feelings changed and I marveled at the quality of this Port. Personally, I find many 10 Year Old Tawnies to be too harsh for my preferences, yet this was not the case here. In fact, it tasted much more like a 20 Year Old, smoother and more complex, with delicious flavors of almonds, caramel, dried fruit, and a mild sweetness. It was one of my favorite Ports from the Expo and certainly the one which most surprised me. Later in the day, I returned to the table for another tasting of the Port, but this time with a Blue Cheese Flan from Sandrine's Bistro, and it was an excellent and classic pairing.

Can I pinpoint the reasons why the Port had not impressed me last summer? No, I cannot. Maybe it just didn't pair as well with the dessert. Maybe I had been simply overwhelmed with all of the prior wines and food. Maybe there was bottle variation. All I know for sure is that my feelings about the Port were very different this time. Has anyone else tasted this Port, and what did you think about it? And if you are going to try it, I would highly recommend pairing it with some blue cheese.

Cave Messias, located in the Bairrada region of Portugal, was founded in 1926 and produces a variety of wines from Dão, Bairrada, Douro, Vinho Verde, Beiras, Terras do Sado and Vinho do Porto. At the Expo, I tasted three of their Ports, and they present good values and would make for a nice introduction to the realm of Port wines.

Their Ruby Port (about $10) offered plenty of ripe red fruit flavors, especially cherry and raspberry, and was smooth and easy drinking. A nice choice for a chilly winter's evening. The 2003 LBV Port (about $15) presented more complexity, plenty of delicious red fruit flavors, but also some intriguing spice notes. It was smooth and presented a lengthy, satisfying finish. An excellent value at this price. The 10 Year Old Tawny (about $23) was ok, but too harsh for my preferences.

The Vallegre-Vinhos do Porto is a relatively modern company yet the roots of the Quinta extend back into the 18th century. They own about 55 hectares of vineyards and some of the vines are over 80 years old. They produce a full line-up of Ports and showed four of them at the Expo.

Their Dry White Port (which seems to have been the only White Port at the Expo) is a blend of numerous Portuguese grapes you may never had heard of before, including Viosinho, Malvasia Fina, Gouveio, Arinto, Cercial and Rabigato. The Port had a yellow/tawny hue to it and though it is labeled as Dry, does contain some residual sugar, and I tasted a bit of sweetness. It offered flavors of salted nuts, mild spices and even a few floral notes. An intriguing taste and worth checking out.

The Fine Tawny has about five years of ageing and had a very alluring nose, such a compelling smell. It was fairly smooth and there was a nice complexity to its taste, a harmonious blend of ripe red fruits, some dried fruit, and spices. A nice structure, a lengthy finish and just a pure delight to drink. I would strongly recommend this Tawny.

The 10 Year Old Tawny didn't impress me, for all the usual reasons. It is certainly not a bad wine, just doesn't fit my personal preferences. On the other hand, the 2007 Vintage Port both surprised and pleased me. The Port is produced the old fashioned way, by people trodding upon the grapes in concrete lagares. I was concerned because this is a relatively young Vintage Port, which I wasn't sure was ready to drink. But, that turned out not to be the case and it drank very well at its young age. It had a dark red color with an enticing nose of red fruits. On the palate, there was a moderately complex blend of flavors and it was rather smooth, with mild tannins. You could easily enjoy this Port now, though I think that some ageing will benefit it as well. Since the tasting, I have skimmed through a recent Port article which seems to indicate that more Vintage Ports are being produced that are ready to drink upon release, though which will age well too.

Graham's is a very known Port producer and I have previously tasted a number of their Ports, several which were showcased at the Expo. I had though to retaste their 20 Year Old Tawny, which is a superb example of this type of Port. Its alluring nose will compel you to simply sit and sniff it for awhile, enjoying the aromas almost without a need to taste it. But you will be compelled to drink it, to savor the taste. On the palate, the smooth flavors will seduce your mouth, a luscious and intricate melange of caramel, nuts, toffee, honey, dried apricot and more. A very lengthy finish completes this impressive Port and I highly recommend it.

So what Ports do you recommend?

Thursday Sips & Nibbles: Valentine's Edition

2012-01-26T04:00:00.027-05:00

I am here with a special Valentine's Day edition of Thursday Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I briefly highlight some interesting wine and food items that I have encountered recently.
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1) The Beehive, located in Boston’s South End, will be presenting “5 Days of Luv’n!” A 5-day long love fest of Valentine’s Day inspired brunches and dinners accompanied by romantic live music and menu specials including: “My Heart Beets Crab Salad” with beets, hearts of palm & sugar snap peas, Rack of Lamb for Two with salsa verde, roasted potatoes & blood orange salad, and Roasted Sea Scallop with spinach & truffle pommes puree, just to name a few. Reservations are highly recommended, and can be made by calling 617-423-0069.

Performance Schedule:

Friday, February 10:
· Romantic Early Jazz Set: 6:30PM - 8:30PM
· Valentine's Day 5 Days of Luv’n featuring Natalie John: 10:00PM - 2:00AM
Saturday, February 11:
· Saturday Jazz Romance Brunch: 10:30AM - 3:00PM
· Romantic Early Jazz Set: 6:30PM - 8:30PM
· Valentine's Day 5 Days of Luv’n featuring Cumbiagra: 10:00PM - 2:00AM
Sunday, February 12:
· Sunday Jazz Romance Brunch: 10:30AM - 3:00PM
· Valentine's Day Blues on Sunday with Bruce Bears & Friends: 8:00PM - 12:00AM
Monday, February 13:
· Valentine's Day 5 Days of Luv’n with Gabriella Martina: 8:00PM – 12:00AM
Tuesday, February 14:
· Valentine's Day 5 Days of Luv’n Romantic Early Jazz Set with Maxim Lubarsky Piano Trio: 5:30PM – 7:30PM
· Valentine's Day 5 Days of Luv’n with Daniel McClain: 8:00PM - 12:00AM

2) Fleming’s Prime Steakhouse & Wine Bar will celebrate the passion this year with three evenings of luxe specials and a unique Valentine gift for couples dining on Sunday, Monday and Tuesday, February 12th through the 14th.

To enhance the occasion, Executive Chef Russell Skall has created three special entrees for Valentine’s dinner that will be available in addition to Fleming’s popular a la carte menu. “Valentine’s celebration is always a memorable time for our guests,” remarked Chef Skall. “There is nothing more romantic then savoring the pleasures of a delicious dinner and wine with someone you love.”

Filet Mignon & Prawns, Prime New York Strip & King Crab, and Colossal North Atlantic Lobster Tail with Lobster Mac & Cheese will be offered, each at $69.95. A dessert for two, Red Velvet Cake with Espresso Truffles, is $9.50. Wine Director Maeve Pesquera has crafted a special cocktail for the holiday: The Bella-Tini is a Bellini-inspired cocktail with Belvedere Vodka, peach purée and Mas Fi Cava sparkling wine for $9.95.

To give guests another reason to celebrate, Fleming’s is offering each couple dining February 12th through February 14th a complimentary $25 Fleming’s Dining Card to use toward a future rendezvous with their sweetheart. The $25 Valentine’s Card offer is for visits occurring on 2/12/12, 2/13/12 and 2/14/12 only. Limit one Valentine’s Card per couple. Valentine’s Card will be delivered at the end of the dinner and will be valid through March 31, 2012.

3) On February 7th, Legal Sea Foods will honor lovers a week early with a Legal Holiday: Valentine’s Day. Legal Sea Foods will serve up a culinary ménage à trois of enticing beverages paired with decadent delights in Park Square’s 10,000 bottle wine cellar:

First Course
King Crab Leg Cocktail with truffle champagne vinaigrette, mixed green salad
Paired with Hermann J Wiemer “Dry” Riesling
Second Course
Wood Grilled Mahi Mahi with smokey black lentil salad, roasted tomato coulis
Paired with Tamari Reserva Malbec
Third Course
Strawberry Tiramisu with mascarpone cheese, orange liqueur
Paired with Rosa Regale Brachetto d’Aqui

WHEN: Tuesday, February 7th at 6:30pm
COST: $35 per person (includes tax and gratuity)
Reservation required by calling: 617.530.9392

4) On Valentine’s Day, Executive Chef & Owner Anthony Caturano of Prezza will dish out three specials available for one night only. Prezza will offer the following three specialty items in addition to their regular menu: Baked Oysters (with mascarpone, radicchio and scallion - $15); Saffron Arancini (with lobster and mascarpone - $16); and, Rotisserie Chicken (with polenta - $26).

WHEN: Tuesday, February 14th from 5:30pm – 10:00pm

5) From February 11-14, Aura at the Seaport Hotel will offer a special three-course prix fixe for $100 per couple. The prix fixe will offer a choice of three starters, four entrees, and three desserts. For starters, guests will have the following options: Warm Beet & Celery Root Salad (goat cheese fondue, aged balsamic, micro arugula); Potato Leek Soup (truffle oil, fine herbs); or, Raw Bar for Two (shrimp cocktail, oysters on the half-shell, little necks, cocktail sauce, fennel mignonette, horseradish aioli). For entrees, choose between: Roasted Statler Chicken Breast (creamy polenta, Taleggio cheese, Tuscan kale, pomegranate demi); Grilled Shoulder Tenderloin of Beef (wild mushroom bread pudding, rapini, foie gras butter); Pan Roasted Scallops (Applewood smoked bacon, potato puree, crispy Brussels sprouts, maple beurre blanc); or, Vegetarian Option (roasted garlic and thyme custard, maitake mushrooms, currant jam). For dessert, Aura will serve a choice of the following savory selections: Chocolate Molten Cake (mint chocolate chip ice cream, lemon confit); Trio of Dessert (for two – chocolate raspberry heart, espresso crème brûlée, vanilla cheesecake); or, Crème Caramel (gingered pineapple, candied hazelnuts).

6) Located in Hotel Indigo, BOKX 109 American Prime’s Jarrod Moiles will be serving up a customizable three-course prix-fixe menu for the five nights leading up to Valentine’s Day. For starters, choose between: Scallop Crudo (pomegranate, radish, jalapeno, scallion, lemon); Grilled Linguica (cannelloni bean ragout, goat cheese, port wine butter); or, Lobster Pizette (garlic aioli, brie cheese, asparagus, Andouille sausage). For entrees, guests will choose from the following options: Roasted Half Duck (blackberry brandy caramel, drunken berries, braised bok choy); Shrimp & Scallop Risotto (pancetta, leeks, tomato, herb salad); or, Cast Iron Seared Brandt Tenderloin (oyster fritto, arugula, shallot, bacon). To finish off the feast, indulge in Goat Cheese Panna Cotta (hot dark chocolate sauce, fresh strawberry), or Deconstructed White Chocolate Cake (raspberry jam, toasted almond).

When: February 10 & 11: 5:00pm – 11:00pm; February 12 to 14 from 5:00pm – 10:00pm
Cost: $65 per person

7) Strega Waterfront will offer a customizable Chef’s Tasting Menu for the five nights leading up to Valentine’s Day. For appetizers, guests will have their choice of three selections: Oysters ‘Rockefeller’ (sautéed spinach, parmesan, seasoned Italian bread crumbs, garlic lemon aioli); Spinach Salad (crispy pancetta, goat cheese, cherry tomatoes, candied pistachios, champagne vinaigrette); or, Roasted ‘Heart-Shaped’ Beet Salad (ricotta hazelnut, organic local honey). Moving onto entrees, four options will be available: Oven Roasted Porchetta (pork loin stuffed with ham, Fontina cheese, spinach and mushrooms); ‘Heart-Shaped’ Lobster Ravioli (vodka cream sauce); Grilled Swordfish (lemon, white wine, caper sauce); or, Braised Short Ribs (homemade pappardelle with lobster and peas). For dessert, choose between Chef Sal’s Famous Tiramisu (espresso-soaked lady fingers, fresh mascarpone) or a Chocolate Chip Cannoli (filled with fresh chocolate chips and ricotta). Optional wine pairings are also available.

When: February 10th - 14th from 5:00pm – 11:00pm
Cost: $65 per person ($85 per person with wine pairings)

8) Join acclaimed pastry chef Judy Mattera, owner of My Sweet Solutions, and the Culinary Guild of New England to whip up romantic confections just in time for Valentine’s Day. Mattera brings an extensive background in fine pastry-making and study of the world’s dessert wines to a lively cooking and wine pairing demonstration, complete with recipes and tasting notes.

The baking/pairing demo includes:
· Lemon Sponge Pudding Cakes
Michele Chiarlo Nivole Moscato d'Asti (Italy)
· Passion Fruit Cheesecake
Inniskillin Vidal Icewine (Canada)
· Cornmeal Currant Wafers with Orange Muscat Gelée and Berries
Quady Essensia (Madera, CA)
· Bittersweet Chocolate Tart with Chilled Cherry Sabayon
Les Clos de Paulilles Banyuls Rimage (France)

WHEN: Wednesday, February 1, 7:00 PM – 9:30 PM
COST: $55 for Members; $70 for Non-Members (includes demonstration, recipes and tasting notes, and samples paired with wines)
WHERE: Waterworks Library, 2420 Beacon Street, Chestnut Hill
REGISTER: Sign up here.

9) This year Tryst, located in Arlington, is celebrating more than just Valentine’s Day. This year’s festivities will not end on the 14th, but will extend though Wednesday, February 15, to include the celebration of International Singles Awareness Day. Widely celebrated in Europe, this day is dedicated to Saint Faustino, the saint adopted by singles in Italy, and is a way to commemorate the unattached and all of the possibilities that lie ahead.

From Friday, February 10 through Wednesday, February 15, guests will enjoy Executive Chef Paul Turano’s menu featuring specials like Spiced Long Island Duck, Red Wine Braised Beef Short Ribs, Slow Roasted Chicken "Coq Au Vin", and Heirloom Squash Ravioli, all available à la carte. After dinner, lounge and indulge in Tryst’s hand-crafted Valentine’s Day cocktails such as the tragically delicious “Cupid’s Misfire,” made with Ketel One Citron, housemade limoncello and Prosecco ($12) or the romantic “Star Crossed Lovers,” featuring Bluecoat dry gin, Cherry Herring liqueur, a pomegranate reduction and a bottle of vibrant red Banfi Rosa Regale, $12 for two.

Tax and gratuity are not included. Reservations are highly recommended and can be made by calling 781-641-2227.

10) Join Blue on Highland, located in Needham, this Valentine’s Day, Tuesday, February 14, for a romantic evening featuring sweet & savory food and cocktail specials and complimentary roses for the ladies from 4pm-10pm.

Guests can indulge in the culinary styling of Executive Chef Peter Tartsinis as he presents dinner specials created exclusively for this year’s Valentine’s Day celebration including appetizers such as Fried Ravioli with spicy tomato, basil and parmesan ($8) and entrées like the Lobster Tagliatelle with basil and tomatoes in a champagne-tarragon sauce ($25), or the Cowboy Ribeye with roasted potatoes and spinach with cabernet butter ($32). After dinner, show your sweeter side by sharing the chocolate bread pudding with salted caramel, butterscotch chips, ice cream or Red Velvet Cupcakes (both $8) for dessert. Complement your selections with Blue’s special Valentine’s Day Cocktail, a house-infused raspberry vodka topped with champagne and served with a chocolate covered strawberry ($11).

No matter what your indulgence, your date will receive a complimentary rose from Winston Flowers. Reservations are highly recommended and can be made by calling Blue on Highland at 781-444-7001.

11) For Valentine’s Day, Tuesday, February 14, 5:30pm-11pm, Beacon Hill Hotel & Bistro is offering a four course, prix fixe dinner for $68 per person (beverages, tax and 20% gratuity are not included) and there is an optional wine pairing available for an additional $32.

Amuse Bouche
--Woodbury’s Wellfleet Oyster with Paddlefish and Fennel Caviar.
Starters
--Wild Mushroom Velouté with Madeira and Taleggio
--Butter Lettuce Salad with Hearts of Palm, Grapefruit, Black Truffle and Banyuls Vinaigrette
--Oxtail Ravioli with Pea Tendrils, Black Pepper Ricotta, Brown Butter and Sage
--Rohan Duck Terrine with Violet Mustard, Baguette and House Pickles
--Nantucket Bay Scallop Ceviche with Persimmon, Radish and Meyer Lemon
Entrees
--Maryland Striped Bass with Wild Mushroom Ragout, Mille-feuille and Beurre Rouge
--Faroe Island Salmon with Orange Scented Beets, Fennel and Quinoa
--Long Island Duck confit with Yellow Eye Beans, Braised Greens and Sour Orange Jus
--Grass Fed Sirloin with Fingerling and Short Rib Ragout, Caramelized Carrots and Red Wine Jus
--Carnaroli Risotto with Brussels Sprouts, Black Truffle and Parmesan Tuile
Desserts
--Chocolate Pot De Crème with Apricot, Brioche and Fleur De Sel
--Lemon Chiffon Cake with Frozen Lemon Curd
--Vanilla Crème Brulée
--Buttermilk Panna Cotta with chocolate covered strawberries and Mint Ice Cream

Reservations recommended. Please call 617-723-7575

Boston Wine Expo: Lambouri Winery on Cyprus

2012-01-25T04:00:00.005-05:00

At the Boston Wine Expo, I had the opportunity to taste some wines from the island of Cyprus, located in the Eastern Mediterranean Sea and east of Greece. I believe this was the first time I have ever tasted wines from this country, primarily because I have not seen their wines available at local wine stores.

Wine production in Cyprus has a lengthy history, extending back at least over 4300 years and possibly even over 5500 years. At least one of their wines, a sweet wine now known as the Commandaria, has been famous for nearly 3000 years and is still produced today. In more modern times, their wine industry languished throughout much of the 20th century until the 1990s when there was a major push to modernize and improve the quality of their wines. So, despite its long history, in some respects it still is has a young wine industry.

In 2007, a new Appellation of Origin system was established in Cyprus, based on European Union law, and there are three categories including Table wine, Local wine, and O.E.O.Π. (their top designation). There are four designated Local areas allowed, including Lefkosia, Lemesos, Larnaca and Paphos, and 85% of the grapes for a Local wine must come from one of these regions. Wines with the O.E.O.Π. designation have a number of regulations and restrictions, including a minimum altitude for the vineyards, yield restrictions, ageing and more. There are about 120 indigenous grapes in Cyprus though only a small number are actively used in wine making.

The history of the Lambouri Winery, located in Platres which is about 1128 meters above sea level, extends back over 300 years. They are a small, boutique winery which produces about 75,000 bottles annually and also grows only certified organic grapes. The winery presented six wines at the Expo, a sampling of different types and styles.

First up was a white wine, the 2010 Seaside Dream, a blend of Xinisteri and Riesling. Xinisteri, also spelled as Xynisteri and Xynistery, is an indigenous Cypriot white grape grown in about 13% of their vineyards. Xinisteri can produce aromatic wines with a bit of earthiness. I found the flavors of this wine to be more subdued, with a blend of citrus, green apple and minerality, but no earthiness. But, there was a certain exotic element to the taste, a bit indescribable but which elevated this wine above comparable wines.

Next, I tasted their 2010 Summer Blush, a Rosé blend of Grenache Noir and Maratheftiko, another indigenous Cypriot grape. Maratheftiko is an ancient grape variety, possibly the second oldest grape in the world, which is only recently starting to be planted more in Cyprus. It is known to possess high acid and high tannins, as well as be difficult to grow. This Rosé had a strong pink color and a pleasant and subtle red fruit aroma. On the palate it was dry, with flavors of strawberry and raspberry as well as some light herbal notes. An Old World style Rosé, this is the style I enjoy and would recommend this wine.

The 2006 Maratheftiko is produced from 100% Maratheftiko and has spent about 12 months in oak, a combination of new and old, French and American. Though it is about five years old, it is still a young wine and really needs another 5-6 years of ageing. With a medium red color, this dry red wine provides a complex taste of red fruits, mild spices and a certain exotic flavor. It is fairly tannic now, and definitely needs some time but I feel it has potential.

The 2007 Crimson Sky is a blend of Mouvedre, Mavro and Cabernet Sauvignon. Mavro is another ancient and indigenous Cypriot grape and its name simply means "black." It is also the most widely grown grape on Cyprus, accounting for about 70% of all vines. In addition, the vines are grown on their original rootstock, and have not been grated with North American rootstock. This was another delicious wine, with only moderate tannins, and a pleasant melange of cherry, strawberry, blueberry, spice and herbal notes. It did not present the same exotic profile as the other wines, but was still a very good wine.

Lambouri also presented two compelling dessert wines. The 1998 Apollonia is a late harvest wine, a blend of 50% Mavro and 50% Xinisteri. It is aged for at least 5 years in oak, which is set out under the sun, and it has an alcohol content of 14.5%. It had a beautiful amber color with an alluring nose of honey and flowers, with a sweet taste, balanced by nice acidity. Its honey flavors were complemented with some herbal touches, and it had plenty of complexity and a satisfying, lengthy finish.

Finally, there was the 2000 Commandaria Legacy, the second oldest named wine in the world still in production. It is also is a late harvest wine, a blend of 50% Mavro and 50% Xinisteri, but the grapes spend about 9 days drying in the sun. A dried grape wine, known as Cypriot Manna, was first described in 800 BC by the Greek poet Hesiod. In the 13th century, Cyprus became the base of operations for the Templar Knights and there estate was known first as Gran Commanderie and then later Commandaria. They exported a dried grape wine known as Commandaria and it became quite famous. I found this wine to be even more complex than the Appolonia, with additional flavors of butterscotch, raisins and earthy hints. An amazing wine which I highly recommend.

My initial experience with Cypriot wines was very positive, and you should check out the wines from Lambouri Winery. I definitely want to explore more Cypriot wines.

Update 1/25/12: I just learned that The Spirited Gourmet in Belmont will carry some of these wines, including the 1998 Apollonia and 2006 Maratheftiko.

Boston Wine Expo: Pinotage Rosé to Cape Verde

2012-01-25T03:52:00.225-05:00

Here is a sampling of some of the other wines that I found interesting at the Boston Wine Expo, and I will be posting about even more wines this week too.

Long a fan of South African wines, I am even a lover of the Pinotage grape, a rather divisive variety which I don't feel gets enough credit. The quality of Pinotage wines continues to improve all the time. At the Expo, I found a delicious Rosé wine made from 100% Pinotage, the 2010 Fantail Pinotage Rosé.

Fantail is the second label of the Morgenhof Wine Estate, situated on the slopes of the Simonsberg mountains outside Stellenbosch. The winery dates back to 1692 and is currently owned by Anne Cointreau, part of the famed French liqueur company, and she was the first women to invest in South Africa post-apartheid. The winery is small, with 74 hectares under vines and only producing about 35,000 cases each year.

The Pinotage vines for this wine average about 15 years, and the juice receives about three hours of skin contact. It is a small production wine, sells for under $15 and has an alcohol content of 12.75%. It possesses a rich pink color, with a nose of red fruit, and on the palate it is crisp and dry, with tastes of strawberry and bright cherry. It is more an Old World style, and does not possess any of the negative characteristics that some try to attribute to Pinotage. If you tasted this wine, you probably would not even guess it was produced from Pinotage. But you very likely would enjoy it and it is well worth giving it a try.

Several New England wineries were present at the Expo and one of my favorites is Turtle Creek Winery of Lincoln. I posted about some of their wines last year, have written other posts about the winery, and am back with an update on some of their new wines. Kip Kumler (pictured above) is the owner and winemaker of Turtle Creek, a small, artisan winery which produces around 900-1000 cases annually. Kip is very passionate about wine and I believe he is a skilled winemaker.

As a treat, Kip was pouring a barrel sample of his 2010 Pinot Noir, the grapes being from the Carneros region. Though a bit rough, it showed plenty of potential with excellent red fruit flavors, good acidity and a touch of earthiness. This promises to be a very good wine when it is ready for bottling and I look forward to its release. The 2009 Syrah seemed to me to be even better than the 2008, possessed of deep, rich flavors, and being powerful but not overly tannic. Its complexity was attractive and it screamed out for a hearty steak. Check this one out.

Kip is introducing a special Reserve line and those wines will be identified with a black backed label rather than the usual white (and you can see that label above). Most of Kip's wine are priced $18-$20, and the Reserve line will be priced around $30. The 2009 Cabernet Franc Reserve appealed to me, possessed of ripe black fruit flavors, a spicy backbone, and no green, vegetal notes. This is my preferred style of Cabernet Franc so I was very taken with it. It has plenty of complexity, a long and pleasing finish and is well balanced. Another recommended wine and I look forward to more of his Reserve wines.

One of the most unique offerings at the Expo were two wines from Cape Verde, which was the first time the wines had been shown in the U.S. Cape Verde is an island country in the central Atlantic Ocean, consisting of about ten islands. During the 15th century, Portuguese explorers found the islands, soon after settling there and planting grape vines during the 16th century. Cape Verde gained its independence in 1975.

The island of Fogo (which is a Portuguese term for "fire") has an active volcano, which includes a nine kilometer wide caldera, and the island rises to almost 3000 meters above sea level. There is a small village, Chã das Caldeiras (“Plain of the Calderas”), situated within the caldera, not exactly the safest place to be cause of the active volcano. Most of the grape cultivation of Cape Verde occurs on Fogo, and actually within the caldera itself at altitudes of 1500-2000 meters. Wine has been produced in the caldera for about 120 years. The manual agriculture and harvesting is difficult work in this terrain. Two cooperatives, Chã das Caldeiras and Sodade, produce all of the wine and production is very small, only about 160,000 bottles annually.

The first wine I tasted was the NV Chã Branco, made from 100% Moscatel and with an alcohol content of 14%. It has a light yellow color with an amber tinge and a nose of perfume and herbs. On the palate, there were flavors of flowers, herbs and spices with a mild grapefruit taste as well. It had decent acidity and a touch of sweetness. I would have enjoyed this with some spicy Asian food. The second wine was the Chã Passito, also made with late harvest Moscatel grapes but which had been dried in the sun. It only has an alcohol content of 10.6%. This was a sweet wine, though balanced with nice acidity, and there were flavors of honey, dried apricot, raisins and with some floral notes and even some minerality. Both wines were good and I would like to try more wines from Cape Verde.

Next time you visit a large wine tasting or expo, skip the California Cabernet and French Bordeaux and seek out the less common wines, the more unusual choices.

Update 1/15/12: I have learned that Beacon Hill Wine & Gourmet in Melrose will soon be carrying the 2010 Fantail Pinotage Rosé.

Boston Wine Expo: Mead Wars

2012-01-24T04:00:00.233-05:00

Once again I am a bit disappointed because there was no sake. As one of the largest local wine events, the Boston Wine Expo would be a good opportunity for sake producers to introduce their products to both the trade and consumers. So where were they this year? Ah, well, let us move on to other matters.

This past weekend, the Boston Wine Expo took place and I attended on Sunday, as the snow on Saturday kept me from getting there. There were some positive changes this year, from reduced ticket prices to a new mobile app. I actually enjoyed their new mobile app once they added a list of the wines at the event. It became easy then to mark your favorite wineries and wines. The app was easy to use and I hope they continue to use them for future Expos.

Last year, the Expo had lengthened the trade tasting time to three hours but cut it back this year to only two, which had been the norm prior to last year. It would have been better for an extra hour as the trade hours are usually a quieter time, allowing me the ability to better speak with the wine makers, distributors and representatives about their wines. Once all the consumers enter the event, it becomes more difficult to interact with the wine reps.

They also made some changes to the set-up of the event, and it seemed roomier but also a bit smaller, with seemingly less wineries represented. In prior years, the outside aisles were for all the food and lifestyle exhibitors, but this year, they spread those exhibitors throughout the room. As usual, I spent much of my time at the Expo seeking out the less common wines, lesser known grapes, wine styles or regions and I will discuss many of my finds this week. I'll start off my coverage with Mead Wars!

Mead, also known as honey wine, is an alcoholic drink basically produced from honey, water and yeast. Numerous variants exist, over at least 35, where the mead may contain spices, herbs, fruit or other additions and many of those variants have their own special terms. For example, a mead flavored with spice is known as a metheglin while a mead made with fruit is called a melomel. Mead is one of the oldest alcoholic beverages, at least 9000 years old, and there is an argument it might have been the first alcohol ever created. Mead has existed in numerous cultures all around the world, even figuring into the mythology of some of these cultures, such as the Norsemen. There has been a resurgent modern interest in mead, especially by home wine makers, and some commercial meaderies now exist.

My own experiences with mead have been meager, often restricted to what I have found at Renaissance Fairs. Thus, I was eager to taste the meads from two local producers, Moonlight Meadery and Maine Mead Works, at the Expo.

"Mead is passion, it's about romance, it's about enjoyment, family and friends, and sharing."
--Michael Fairbrother

The origin of the Moonlight Meadery, located in Londonderry, New Hampshire, extends back to 1995 when the owner Michael Fairbrother, created his first mead, a cyser, an apple and honey mead. Then, in July 2010, Michael commercially launched his flagship mead, Desire, and now produces about 18 different types of meads, most named by an interesting descriptor, such as Smitten, Tease, Flirt, Wicked, and Paramour. They try to use local honey and fruits whenever possible, and are the first New Hampshire winery to be distributed in California. At the Expo, Moonlight presented four of their meads.

First up was the Sensual, a traditional mead (15.2% alcohol) that was aromatic and had a rich honey taste, though it was not overly sweet. Along with the honey flavors, there were nutty undertones and mild floral notes. It was a tasty drink, which I enjoyed, and would make for a fine dessert drink, or maybe an accompaniment with spicy Asian food. The Embrace is a blend of 63% honey and 27% black currants (15.7% alcohol), which has a more reddish color and presents more dry and strongly tart. The honey notes are very subdued and the currants flavors predominate. I didn't care much for this as it was too tart for my own tastes, but if you enjoy tartness, I believe you would enjoy this mead.

The sweetness returned in Kurt's Apple Pie (16.8% alcohol), named after Michael's best friend, Kurt Demmer, and which is their best selling mead. It is made with honey, local apple cider, Madagascar-bourbon vanilla and Vietnamese cinnamon and tastes exactly like liquid apple pie. I can understand why this mead is so popular, as the compelling blend of flavors works very well together. It is not cloyingly sweet and would be a perfect accompaniment with dessert. Though the alcohol content is high, it is not reflected in the balanced taste so you should be wary that you don't drink too much. I highly recommend this mead.

The final mead was more unique, the Utopian (16.9% alcohol), which is aged in Sam Adams Utopian barrels, a rare and special beer. The Utopian is a single barrel release and each bottle is noted with the bottling date and number of cases produced. This is certainly an interesting and complex beverage, which does remind me of an artisan beer, though it did not appeal to my own preferences as I am not much of a beer guy. But I certainly appreciate the unique nature of this brew.

The meads intrigued me sufficiently that I want to visit Moonlight, tour the meadery and taste more of their portfolio.

The Maine Mead Works, founded in 2007 and located in Portland, Maine, is owned by Ben Alexander and Carly Cope. They produce about nine different meads, using primarily locally sourced ingredients, including Aroostook County wildflower honey, Glendarragh Farms English lavender, Snell and Maxwell Farms strawberries and Heath Hill Farms elderberries. In collaboration with South African scholar Dr. Garth Cambray, they have also developed a state-of-the-art continuous fermentation system, availing themselves of modern technology to create a better mead. Their meads are known by the brand Honeymaker Meads.

I first tasted their Honeymaker Dry Mead (12.5% alcohol) which is produced in small batches and is oak aged. It actually had a fairly complex taste, dry though with subtle honey notes, as well as touches of citrus (especially orange) and floral notes. A pleasing taste and I would recommend this mead. The Blueberry Mead (12.5% alcohol) reminds me more of a rosé wine with its light red hue, but it is made with organic wild blueberries. It had an appealing berry aroma and on the palate, the blueberry taste was pleasant, with a bit of tartness. It would be a fun summer wine. Lastly, I tasted the Lavender Mead (12.5% alcohol) which had a strong floral smell which came out dominant on the palate as well. I didn't care for the prominent lavender flavor, which is more a personal preference. All three of these meads are also gluten free. In addition, I would like to visit this meadery and taste more of their meads.

So, if you have not tasted mead before, give it a chance, especially if you live locally and can obtain meads from Moonlight Meadery or Maine Mead Works. With all of the diversity in mead styles and types, you will likely find something that appeals to your personal preferences. I know I will be exploring mead more in the future.

Rant: Stop Eating Cod, Tuna & Salmon

2012-01-23T04:00:00.003-05:00

My advice for today: Stop Eating Cod, Tuna & Salmon.

Well, I am not really telling you to completely stop eating these fish but rather to expand your horizons and experience the full bounty of the sea. When dining, far too many people stick to familiar meats and seafood rather than being more adventurous, and even despite the fact that odder meats and seafood may be healthier and more sustainable. For example, I previously discussed the advantages of eating rabbit, noting its health benefits and sustainability. Yet not enough people eat rabbit, primarily for psychological reasons. Yet if we truly care about sustainability, we need to strongly consider these less common choices.

The February issue of Food & Wine magazine has an interesting section on Sustainable Seafood and there is an important quote from Chef Rick Moonen of RM Seafood in Las Vegas: "One of the best ways to fight overfishing is diversity: People must be willing to cook and eat species besides the familiar ones,..." He suggests that rather than enjoying tuna, cod, and salmon, people should eat more seafood like wild drum fish, snook, arctic char, cobia, and branzino. Practically, this makes plenty of sense, that eating less of the popular fish will allow their populations to rebound at a greater pace. The less commonly eaten fish often have plentiful populations so there are less concerns about sustainability.

For example, sardines are considered very healthy, rich in Omega-3s, minerals and B vitamins, and they are very sustainable as well. You can find them on some local menus, but once again, not enough people eat them. Most would rather order a tuna steak or broiled cod than a dish of fried sardines. Yet sardines are very tasty, which is also an important consideration. Europeans seem more apt to eat sardines, and I have enjoyed some superb sardine dishes in both Spain and Italy. Why doesn't the U.S. embrace sardines? It is primarily a mental obstacle, people unwilling to try something different.

In another article in that same magazine, the Trendspotting section mentions that whelks, a type of sea snail, are growing in popularity and notes that local Chef Tony Maws, of Craigie on Main, serves whelks. There is a newly emerging fishery in the Gulf of Maine which is gathering whelks, most which end up in Asian grocery stores in Boston and New York City. Chef Richard Garcias of 606 Congress has written about his recent experimentation with whelks and you will find whelks on the menu of other Boston restaurants as well like Coppa and Bondir. But this all requires diners willing to try the whelks, to order them rather than more common seafood dishes.

Get over your psychological barriers! Don't be afraid of something unfamiliar and take a chance on a different fish. It is time now to stop eating the same old fish all the time and experiment with less common seafood, to broaden your palate to the pleasure of whelks and sardines, cobia and mackerel. You will enjoy the tastes if you only give them a chance, especially if you dine at a good restaurant which knows how to properly prepare seafood. For the sake of sustainability, to save our oceans and all of the endangered species, this is an excellent choice and one you should seriously consider.

So start eating sardines, whelks and other similar seafoods.

How To Pair Port With Dinner

2012-01-20T04:00:00.333-05:00

Port and Blue Stilton cheese. Port and chocolate.

Two classic pairings but which apparently have also relegated Port to being paired primarily with dessert or as an after-dinner drink. Yet that was not always the case and during the late 19th and early 20th centuries, sweet wines of all types, including Port, often were paired throughout an entire dinner. But that fell out of fashion. Personally, I generally had not given much thought to Port accompanying an appetizer or entree. But, the more I considered it, the more I was intrigued by the idea so I was eager to attend a local dinner where every course was accompanied by a different Port.

Legal Sea Foods recently hosted a five-course Port dinner in the Wine Cellar of their Park Square location. Sandy Block, Master of Wine and VP of Beverage Operations, and Tina Silverberg, Sommelier, were in attendance and led the discussion on Port, including showing some photos of the Douro region which Tina had visited during the last harvest. Sandy has also been to Portugal numerous times so together they brought plenty of Port knowledge to the dinner. The Port pairings were carefully considered and I eagerly anticipated testing the results.

In a very simple generalization, pairing wine with food can be done in either of two ways: matching or contrasting the flavors. For this Port dinner, they generally chose to adhere to the matching method, to try to pair foods with flavors that mirrored those of the Ports. A contrasting pairing with the Ports would have been a valid match as well, but that is beyond the scope of this post. For now, let us consider whether matching Port flavors to food works or not.

The dinner began with a few delicious Hors d'Oeuvres, which generally presented salty flavors with elements of smoke, sweetness and blue cheese.

A Stuffed Olive with Anchovy and Piquillo Pepper.

Grilled Sardines with Cabrales Blue Cheese in a Phyllo Tartlette. My favorite of the three, with its brininess up front and the sharp blue cheese finish.

Sea Scallop wrapped in Apple Smoked Bacon with an Aged Balsamic Reduction

These hors d'oeuvres were paired with a Fonseca Siroco White Port ($16.99) & Tonic, a popular cocktail in the hot Douro region. In a tall glass on the rocks, with a lemon slice, it was reminiscent of a vodka & tonic, but with more citrus flavors and a slight nuttiness. White Port is made in two styles, either dry or sweet, and the sweet version may be known as the Lagrima style. The Fonseca Siroco is a dry style and I would have liked to taste it on its own. But, it did well in the cocktail, and would be very refreshing in the summer. It went well with the hors d'oeuvres, helping to cleanse the palate. I think people need to drink more White Port.

Next up on the menu was Fish Two Ways, which included a Bluefish Paté with marcona almonds & grilled crostini, as well as Cod Cakes with Serrano ham & a saffron aioli. The Paté was superb, creamy and flavorful with salty and nutty elements. I would love to make that at home for a party sometime. The Cod Cakes were moist and tasty, and the ham was very crispy, adding a salty aspect as well.

With this seafood, we drank the Fonseca 20 Year Tawny Port ($49.99), which was served at cellar temperature (about 55-58 degrees Fahrenheit), not room temperature. The idea with this pairing was to match the nutty and salty flavors of the Port to the seafood. The wood aging of this Port made its color lighter, more of an amber than the purple shade of many young Ports. It had an alluring aroma and plenty of complexity on the palate, with flavors of caramel, almonds, raisins, and spice. It was silky smooth with very mild tannins and a lingering finish. A superb Port.

The Port's sweetness was also very subdued, and it reminded me in some ways of an aged Oloroso sherry. Different Port producers have varied house styles, and the level of sweetness of their Ports will vary, generally determined by the timing when the neutral brandy is added to the fermentation process. I felt this was a successful pairing, indicating one way in which a Port can be matched to seafood dishes, and the flavors of the food and wine complemented each other so very well. It certainly might not be your first choice for a seafood pairing, but it would make for an interesting change of pace and could impress your guests.

We moved on to a savory Grilled Duck Breast with a Black Mission Fig Glaze, tender slices of meaty duck with a thick, sweet glaze possessed of a dominant fig taste. Duck often is served with a fruit sauce or glaze, and the idea behind this pairing was to match the sweetness of the fig glaze to the Port's sweetness. I would have preferred the fig glaze to be a bit less sweet but it was easy enough to cover the duck slices with as much, or as little, of the glaze as you desired.

The pairing for this dish was the Croft 10 Year Tawny Port ($26.99) and Croft is the oldest still existing Port House. This Port was a bit darker in color than the previous Fonseca, with a similar aroma though with a bit more dominant fruit. It felt bigger and fuller in the mouth, with more sweetness though it still was at a mild level. The flavors were complex, with subtle nuttiness, and the tannins were slightly more prominent. The ten additional years of aging of the Fonseca do make a difference. This pairing also worked for me, and I think the combination of the sweet glaze and sweetness of the Port complemented each other. What helped was that the Port was not overly sweet, and I would now consider pairing Ports with sweet dishes.

The last savory course was Hickory Wood-Grilled Lamb Shoulder with Mole Poblano and Grilled Corn Cakes. Mole Poblano, which is of Mexican origin, contains numerous ingredients, including chile peppers, nuts and chocolate. The pairing idea was that as Port and chocolate are considered a good match, then the chocolate in the mole would make a match too. The lamb was tender with that distinctive and delicious taste of lamb. The mole was a rich sauce that complemented the slight gamey nature of the lamb, and it was more earthy and savory, rather than spicy so they must have been light with the chile peppers.

The Fonseca Late Bottled Vintage Port 2005 ($22.99) is a traditional style, meaning it is unfiltered. Taylor Fladgate developed the Late Bottled Vintage (LBV) style in the 1950s, trying to create a vintage style Port you could drink young. So, basically a LBV contains grapes from only a single vintage but it is not a declared vintage Port. Yes, it seems a bit confusing so just remember that a LBV is good to drink young, and usually is less expensive than a Vintage Port. This Fonseca had a dark and opaque purple color with a nose dominated by black fruits. It was full bodied, with stronger tannins and powerful flavors of black fruits and raisins. It was also sweeter than all of the previous Ports.

Once again, this was a nice pairing, with the Port flavors going well with the rich mole sauce and its chocolate flavors. I think the pairing might have even be better if the mole had more spiciness, as the Port's sweetness would have been a good contrast. As mole is a versatile sauce, I could see other dishes using mole also pairing well with Ports.

For dessert, they went with a classic pairing, Port and Chocolate. We were served a Warm Chocolate Pudding Cake with roasted walnuts and a Colombian dark chocolate sauce. The cake was fluffy and light, with plenty of rich chocolate flavor that was accented nicely with the salt from the walnuts. A chocolate lover's treasure.

The final port of the evening was the Taylor Fladgate Vintage Port 2000, which is just starting to come into its own and will continue to age for many years to come. It was a dark purple in color, though lighter at the edges. It had more black fruit aromas which also came out prominently on the palate, along with raisins and subtle spices. 2000 was considered a "magical" vintage, one of the best in recent times. It was an elegant Port, with a long and satisfying finish. Taylor is considered the "Latour" of the Douro, producing classic Ports. With the chocolate, it enhanced the experience, a fine ending to a delicious dinner.

I was pleased to see how Port could pair with more than chocolate and blue cheese, and it gave me much to ponder. Food and wine pairing can be an art and it is always interesting to try something different from the norm. Not enough Port is consumed in the U.S., but if more people learn how to pair meals with Port, maybe that will change. If you have paired Port with dinner, please tell me about the pairing in the comments.

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

2012-01-19T04:00:00.004-05:00

I am back again with a new edition of Thursday Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I briefly highlight some interesting wine and food items that I have encountered recently.
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1) On Tuesday, February 7, The Beehive presents “Belly Dancing at The Beehive,” featuring cuisine, libations and entertainment highlighting Middle Eastern culture. Join The Beehive for a celebration of Middle Eastern music and belly dancing featuring music by The Pharohs and nationally known belly dancer Phaedra Rose and guests.

The soul of the Middle East comes alive at 8pm with the sounds of The Pharohs, an international Armenian & Middle Eastern ensemble inspired by Middle Eastern, Arabic, Greek, Armenian and Israeli music. While The Pharohs perform, watch a mesmerizing belly dance performance by the steamy, seductive and mystical belly dancer, Phaedra Rose. Enjoy the lovely melodies of the evening with Executive Chef Rebecca Newell’s Middle Eastern fare with specials such as lamb-filled Moroccan cigars, mezze platters and The Beehive’s house couscous.

WHEN: Tuesday, February 7th, 2012, Doors/Dinner: 5:00PM, Live Music 8:00PM to 12:00AM
COST: No cover charge, cash bar, dinner reservations recommended.

2) People born under the Dragon are passionate, brave and self-assured. At their best they are pioneering spirits; this Chinese New Year 2012 ushers in the Water Dragon. Water exerts a calming influence on the Dragon’s innate fire. Water Dragons are more open to other people’s opinions than other Dragons which gives them the ability to channel their personal charisma into real leadership qualities.

Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s Market introduces a passionate and bold Chinese New Year Menu for Monday, January 23, from 5pm-10pm. He unveils his special menu: "The Year of the Water Dragon" as a seasonal twist and international flavor profile for the New Year. Market will offer a four course tasting menu, for $55 per person, with optional wine pairings that couple the international flavors of Jean-Georges’ travels in the East with the locally sourced ingredients Market in Boston is known for.

Menu
--Peekytoe Crab Dumplings (Meyer Lemon Celeriac Tea)
--Slowly Cooked Salmon (Cherry Tomatoes, Crispy Rice, Miso-Yuzu Broth)
--Grilled Beef Tenderloin (Gingered Shiitakes and Soy-Caramel Sauce)
--Vietnamese Chocolate Tart (Condensed Milk Ice Cream)

3) On Saturday, January 28, from 12pm-5pm, The Wine ConneXtion, located in North Andover, welcomes guests for a complimentary tasting of Lafite Rothschild, the famed wine label whose Bordeaux's regularly fetch five figures. This winemaker is synonymous with excellence and since 1962 has been branching out from its renowned investor wines to offer imports for the wine enthusiast on a budget.

At "Around the Globe with Lafite Rothschild's Imports," guests will enjoy a diverse range of Rothschild’s wines, from their best from France to the great wines they produce in Chile and Argentina, while sampling complimentary cuisine from Sultan Mediterranean Café located in North Andover. The event is part of The Wine ConneXtion’s weekly Saturday tasting series and reflects its willingness to educate customers and refine their tastes.

4) What do we New Englanders need to know about the Farm Bill? Plenty. Spend the afternoon at the Museum of Science and learn why the Farm Bill should really be called the Food Bill. Most of us know that the Farm Bill is coming up for re-authorization in 2012, but we truly don’t understand why and how much it matters to each of us. Join an expert group of panelists to help break down what the Farm Bill means to the food and farming industry. The event will take place throughout the Museum of Science and will include keynotes, a working session, panel discussions, as well as a meet-up room for the community to learn what local organizations are doing.

Let’s Talk About Food is presented in collaboration with the Museum of Science, the City of Cambridge, and Food Law Society at Harvard Law School, MIT and the City of Boston. This is the first of many Let’s Talk About Food events and initiatives of 2012.

WHO: Keynoters include 2012 Farm Bill experts and national resources: U.S. Representative Chellie Pingree (D-ME) and NYU’s Marion Nestle, PhD. Let’s Talk About Food Founder is Louisa Kasdon.
WHEN: Sunday, January 29, 2:00p-6:00p (Keynote Panel Begins at 3p)
WHERE: Museum of Science, 1 Science Park, Boston
OTHER: To register, log onto http://www.mos.org/events_activities/events&d=5346.
Founded in Boston 2010, Let’s Talk About Food is a national, educational and event-driven partnership organization aimed at increasing the level of public literacy about all aspects of our food system. From sustainability to food access, cooking to obesity, and food safety to food justice, Let's Talk About Food invites people across the spectrum to join in participatory, engaging and meaningful conversations that can shape the place food holds in our communities, our world, and our hearts. Our goal is to create a community of “Food Thinkers” – a new kind of Food Think Tank that brings experts and the community together to explore food and food issues in our world.

The first Let’s Talk About Food event of 2012 is the Farm Bill Teach In on Jan. 29 followed by the Let’s Talk About Sustainable Seafood Teach In on April 29th. The Second Annual Let’s Talk About Food Festival will be on June 16 this year. For more information, please log onto www.letstalkaboutfood.com.

Feeding the Dragon: A Culinary Exploration of China

2012-01-18T04:00:00.212-05:00

This year, Chinese New Year falls on January 23, and it heralds the Year of the Water Dragon. Dragons are very passionate (glad to hear that!) and 2012 is poised to be a year of excitement and unpredictability, an excellent year for starting new projects. So, this is a perfect time to review a cookbook that presents some intriguing information on the culinary realm of China, especially when that book's title touches on a Dragon.

Feeding the Dragon: A Culinary Travelogue Through China with Recipes, written by Mary Kate Tate and Nate Tate (Andrews McMeel Publishing, October 2011, $24.99), is a trade-sized paperback of 290 pages. Mary and Nate are siblings, both with a passion for China, especially its culinary offerings. Their passion led them to undertake a three-month, 9700+ mile backpacking trek across China, visiting 18 provinces and territories. They had to economize on their journey, traveling by various modes from trains to donkeys, and spent their time immersed in the culture and food of China. To document these travels, they began a blog, Feeding the Dragon, which has developed into this book.

The book is a combination travelogue and cookbook, broken down into 9 sections by region, including Beijing, Shanghai, Fujian, Hong Kong, Macau, Yunnan, Tibet, Sichuan and Xinjiang. Each of these regional chapters has a few short essays, from historical to cultural, about that region. The topics are diverse, covering such items as dim sum, eating dog meat, yaks, dining with monks, pandas, the lion dance, and much more. These are interesting essays, providing glimpses into the diverse personalities of the various Chinese regions as well as insights into the personal experiences of the authors. These articles could encourage and motivate readers to seek out additional information, to peer deeper into the topics.

Each regional section also contains recipes, usually 10-15 per region, for a total of over 100 recipes, spanning the range from appetizers to desserts, and including several beverages too. Some of the recipes will sound familiar to most readers, like Hot and Sour Soup, Soup Dumplings, Dan Dan Noodles, Chicken Lettuce Cups, and Kung Pao Chicken. But, these recipes are intended to be more authentic, and might not be similar to what you eat at some local Asian restaurants. For example, the Hot and Sour Soup contains some less common ingredients such as lily buds and black tree ear fungus. There are also some more intriguing and less common recipes, such as Macanese Crab Curry, Dragon Fruit Sangria, Tibetan Noodle Soup, Uighur Roast Chicken and Popiah Rolls. There is something for everyone, no matter what your preferences.

Overall, the complexity level of the recipes appears to be Easy to Moderate, and the most difficulty might be finding some of the ingredients unless you go to an Asian grocery store. Each recipe begins with a paragraph or two that gives a bit of background or a story about the recipe. Recipes are better with some context and I am glad they added that information. A fair share of the recipes have accompanying and appealing photos of the dishes. The final sections of the book include a chapter on Cooking Basics, such as how to season a wok, how to stir fry, and dumpling folding tips, as well as a Glossary of ingredients.

The Tates have written a fascinating culinary survey of China that does not endeavor to be comprehensive. It is more a sampling of recipes from different regions, providing some authenticity for home cooks. I like the fact that it is more than just a collection of recipes, but also includes brief essays about Chinese culture and the author's travel experiences, giving the reader more context as well as making the book, as a whole, more interesting. The book is aesthetically pleasing, with numerous beautiful photos of not only the dishes, but also of the people, places and items of China.

With Chinese New Year coming soon, why not pick up this book and prepare some of the recipes to celebrate the Year of the Water Dragon. It is a great time to start a new project, like learning how to prepare some Chinese dishes.

Red Lantern: From Sushi to Pineapple Bread Pudding

2012-01-17T04:00:00.073-05:00

A Japanese red lantern, hanging outside, immediately captured my eye as I walked down Stanhope Street. In Japan, these red lanterns are known as akachōchin, and during the 18th century, they indicated the presence of an izakaya, a sake bar where you could also nibble on some food. Over time, izakayas began to refer to any Japanese bar that served food to accompany alcohol. The lantern that I saw was located outside of the Red Lantern, an Asian restaurant and bar which opened this past June.

Red Lantern is owned by the Big Night Entertainment Group, which is also behind The Estate, a nightclub in Boston, as well as Scorpion Bar, High Rollers, and Shrine at Foxwoods Casino. Contrary to the concept at these other establishments, Red Lantern is primarily about the food, a restaurant with an added bar, rather than a bar that also happens to serve some food. That might be their biggest challenge, convincing people that this is a dining rather than a drinking destination, though you will likely enjoy their beverages as well.

It is a large restaurant, able to sit about 250 people, and the décor includes much appealing red and dark wood colors. The main dining section has smaller tables for couples, larger, circular tables for groups, as well as booths with leather clad seats. You can also sit in front of the sushi bar or even at the counter facing the open kitchen with its wood-fired grill and wok stations. There is a separate room with a 40 foot marble topped bar and a couple televisions. In addition, there is the Apothecary room, a private dining area that can hold 40 people.

Everywhere you turn, scattered all over the room, including inset high up on the walls, you will notice many Buddha and Asian statutes, some complete while others are just heads. The ceiling is filled with red lanterns. The ambiance is hip but with traditional elements that combine in a pleasing décor. It would be a great place for couples or groups, and on a Wednesday evening, the restaurant was packed with a diverse crowd.

Red Lantern is open for dinner seven days a week, and serves food in the dining room until 1am. They also serve takeout cuisine so if you live nearby, you can stop and pick up your dinner. The Executive Chef is Kevin Long, who started working in 1995 at Tosca in Hingham. Chef Long now is in charge of all the kitchens of Big Night Entertainment Group though his primary focus is currently Red Lantern.

They have a fully stocked bar, with a wide range of choices, and their selections are being revised and expanded. Beverage Director Joe O’Connor stated they want the cocktail list to be big and fun, and they have created numerous Asian influenced drinks. You’ll find Martinis ($12) like the Drunken Samurai, made with Moonstone Asian Pear Sake, Amaretto, and fresh lemon. This has an interesting blend of pear and nutty flavors and was not too sweet. You’ll also find Cocktails ($10) like the Wasabi Mary, made with vodka and Red Lantern’s Wasabi Bloody Mix, which could have been spicier but does sneak up on you over time. Other special drinks include the huge Scorpion Bowl for 4 ($44), served in a trifle bowl, and The Flaming Plum shot ($9).

You will find 16 available wines by the glass as well as over 60 wines by the bottle, starting at $34. Their wine list is predominantly California but with French Champagnes and some wines from other regions such as Argentina and South Africa. They sell more white wines by the glass and more reds by the bottle. To my pleasure, they sell 9 Sakes by glass ($8-$12), such as the Kaori Junmai Ginjo, and 14 by the bottle, thought the prices seem a bit high, especially for the less expensive bottles. They also stock numerous beers, both draft and bottle.

The Food menu is large, but not overly so, and is broken down into Appetizers ($7-$17-Edamame with White Miso Aioli), Dim Sum ($8-$12, Duck Egg Roll), Soups & Salads ($6-$10), Noodles ($16-$22, Teriyaki Noodle steak), Fried Rice ($10-$18, from Shrimp to Char Sui Pork), Specialties & Wok Dishes ($22-$39, Stir Fried Shortrib), Steaks ($32-$42, Bacon Wrapped Filet) and Side Dishes ($3-$12, lobster whipped potatoes).

The higher priced items include more luxury items like lobster and Wagyu beef. Some of their specials include a Pu Pu Platter ($30/$60) and a Whole Roasted Hong Kong Duck ($88, serves up to four). There is also a menu of Sushi, Sashimi, and Maki rolls. This is reasonably priced, such as two pieces of Tuna for $7 or Salmon for $6. In addition, you will find a Special Monday menu, which includes seven special small bites for $7 each, from fried shrimp shu mai to pineapple fried rice. There is also a featured wine/sake each week.

Five of us dined together, a fun group of food lovers so that the conversation never dulled. Our main server was Kai Le, a personable and energetic person, who explained the various dishes and made sure to bring us whatever we needed, from drinks to plates.

We began with a few dishes to whet our appetite. The Duck Buns include two warm and soft, steamed buns filled with plenty of tender and savory Hoisin duck. They were accompanied by some mirin pickles, an addictive side which were crisp and had a spicy kick to them. The creamy Avocado Salad, with cucumber, tobiko, crabstick, yuzu, greatly appealed to a couple of the diners while the other two were particularly drawn to the Hot & Sour Soup. This soup has 5-spice tofu, pork broth, mushrooms and white Pepper. This soup was much darker in color than others I have tasted, and also had a deeper, meaty taste with lots of umami.

Up next, we tried some sushi and sashimi, including Toro and Dressed Hamachi. A nice presentation and the Toro was silky smooth, fresh and flavorful, with plenty of veins of fat. The Hamachi was also tasty, with only mild heat and almost citrus flavors too. We later tried a few maki rolls too, and the Crunchy Roll, with Bana salmon toro, tobikko, crab stick, and crunchy was the clear favorite, though the Spicy Tuna performed very well too.

I was enamored with the Singapore Street Noodles, a bowl of thin noodles with pieces of shrimp, scallop, and pork with a Madras Curry and XO sauce. Great textures, lots of flavors, and a light dish. A heavy dish, but worthy, was the Mongolian Steak, slices of skirt steak with garlic, ginger, and mushrooms. Tender beef with rich flavors will please any carnivore. It was accompanied by a bowl of sweet potatoes with a crispy exterior and a soft, sweet interior. The Tik Tok Chicken were chunks of water chestnut golden chicken, atop white rice and topped by crisp wonton chips. It has a blend of sweet and spicy flavors, with tastes of orange.

I would even come to Red Lantern just for dessert. The Pineapple Bread Pudding, with coconut ice cream, was superb, a perfect blend of tropical flavors. The bread pudding had a nice firm, but soft, texture and it was bursting with fresh pineapple flavors. A fantastic dessert that made me forget how full I was and want to devour it in its entirety. The Tempura Bananas are liked banana-filled spring rolls and there is enough to share with someone else.

Overall, I was impressed with Red Lantern. It is reasonably priced for the quality and quantity of their dishes, and there is something for everyone, no matter their preference. The food is obviously very important to them and does not come in second place to their drinks. Yet they have not skimped on their drinks either. Take a group of friends to Red Lantern and have a fun and delicious evening.

(A modified version of this review appeared in Boston Scene magazine, with plenty of great photos.)

Rant: Hotel Restaurant Aggravation

2012-01-16T12:12:00.000-05:00

My dinners this weekend were less than pleasing, and my standards were not set too high. But at least I got to taste some of the incredible, life-sized Stormtrooper cake pictured before.

This weekend, I attended a convention at the Westin Boston Waterfront, which is located next to the huge Boston Convention & Exhibition Center. Within the Westin, there are several places to eat, including Sauciety, MJ O'Connors, City Bar and the Birch Bar. Friday evening, I decided to grab a burger at MJ O'Connors but it was too busy so I decided to go to the City Bar instead, especially as they basically share a kitchen and have the same general menu. I ordered a basic cheeseburger and fries, along with some iced tea. A very simple meal.

Well, after ordering my sandwich, 30 minutes passed and I still had not received my sandwich. The server finally stopped at my table and I informed her that I still did not have my burger. She told me that I should have mentioned something to her earlier. Shouldn't she be paying attention to her customers, and ensuring they receive their food, without the customers having to tell her? Plus, this was the first time she had been back to my table since dropping off my drink.

The server told me the kitchen was a bit backed up and that my sandwich would be right out. She did not ask if I wanted a refill of my drink, even though my drink was nearly empty. Her promise about the burger did not materialize as I didn't receive my burger for about another 25 minutes, and after several of the neighboring tables, who had been seated some time after me, received their meals.

The manager eventually came over, apologizing for the nearly hour delay, and did pick up my entire tab. I didn't receive an explanation though for this lengthy delay. Now, I understand that it was very busy, that there was a convention in the hotel. But, after the first 30 minute delay, they should have found a way to get me my burger in less than 25 minutes. I didn't see anyone else who seemed to be waiting a long time for their meals. Plus, as the hotel handles numerous conventions, the restaurant should be well used to handling large crowds. This isn't an isolated experience for them, and the kitchen should know the best way to deal with this situation. If they can't handle large conventions, then that is a significant issue.

So, Saturday night I chose to grab dinner at The Birch Bar, settling on their Nachos Special and some Pulled Pork Sliders. First, my server never brought me my water and I had to go to the bar myself to get it. The Birch Bar was not particularly busy, with maybe less than a dozen tables eating food, so that was not a reason for the server to forget my water. But that was a minor issue. What bothered me most were the Nachos, which were illustrative of a problem that bothers me in a number of other restaurants as well.

On the special menu, the Nachos were described as being topped by lardons, two different cheeses and a salsa. Yet when they arrived, they were also topped with sour cream, an ingredient I dislike and which also had not been listed on the menu. Why was it the only ingredient to have been omitted on the menu? I would consider it a major ingredient and believe it should have been listed there with all the others. Other restaurant menus do this very same thing, listing only some of the main ingredients and omitting others, and that really irks me.

When I order a dish, I want to know what I am getting, at least all of the major ingredients. I don't need to know every spice in a ten spice blend but I want to know whether mayonnaise is being slathered on my sandwich or not. It seems to be sheer laziness not to include all of the major ingredients on a menu, especially when most of the ingredients are being described. Why should a customer have to ask about potentially omitted ingredients every time they order a dish?

I hope my restaurant experiences this week are better.

Diets & Diabetes: What Is A Food Blogger To Do?

2012-01-13T04:00:00.000-05:00

If you are a regular reader of my blog, you have seen me detail some rather decadent and fattening meals. I have dined out at hundreds of restaurants, sampled goodies from numerous bakeries, and savored treats from many other places as well. I am not alone, and many other food bloggers are in a similar situation. We have many opportunities to eat, and often avail ourselves, with the intention of providing our readers some worthy writing. I don't regret any of it.

But, I recently received a wake-up call, that there can be a price to pay for all of this drinking and dining. I was diagnosed with Type 2 Diabetes, the most common form of diabetes and a disease that affects millions of people worldwide. Sure, that was a scary diagnosis but my blood sugar level was rather borderline and it seemed possible to control it without the need for drugs, just through diet and lifestyle changes. Armed with a blood sugar detector, I was sent home to see if I could make the necessary changes to my life.

I read up on diabetes, consulting resources like the Joslin Diabetes Center, as I wanted to be as informed as possible so that I could best defeat my problem. I pondered a number of questions. How does a food blogger diet, yet still enjoy the food they eat? Some bloggers take the route of detailing their diets, posting about the recipes they use, but I did not want to go that route. How do you diet during the holiday season, as my diet started on December 13? Some would think I was crazy to start at that time, but it was necessary to deal with my diabetic condition. Which specific diet, out of the hundreds out there, should I follow? Or should I not follow any specific one?

It is now exactly one month after I started my diet. I am proud to report that I have lost 15 pounds and my blood sugar levels now appear to be within normal levels. That does not mean there is no longer a need to continue my good work. I should continue to lose additional weight and keep an eye on my blood sugar levels. But, it is a very good start and indicative that I can do it if I so choose.

How did I do it? The key was discipline, using my willpower to control what I ate. I don't care what diet you choose to follow, if you lack the willpower to follow it, then you will fail. I did not follow any specific diet, rather instead just following some good, general nutritional advice. I cut portions sizes and greatly reduced my usual after-dinner snacking. I also tried to reduce my overall intake of carbohydrates, to help reduce my blood sugar. When I dined out though, I did not generally restrict myself. I didn't want to turn dining out in a chore, I wanted it to remain something special. And finally, I exercised more, primarily doing more walking. All of this was sufficient to lose 15 pounds so I must have been doing something right.

This is not going to turn into a diet/health/nutrition blog and I may only mention this issue a few more times during 2012. It is a personal issue but I hope that it gives some inspiration to anyone else in the same position. It is not easy and requires discipline to accomplish your goals, but it is within your grasp if you truly want it. Kudos and good luck to all of my readers currently dieting or facing some type of medical condition which affects what they can eat.

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

2012-01-12T04:00:00.002-05:00

I am back again with a new edition of Thursday Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I briefly highlight some interesting wine and food items that I have encountered recently.
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1) The 7th Annual CityFeast, held on Sunday, January 29, at 6:30pm, is a fun-filled evening hosted by five restaurants in Boston’s North End: Antico Forno, Terramia, Lucca, Taranta and Tresca. Tickets include a five-course dinner with wine pairings at the choice participating restaurant, and proceeds will benefit Joslin’s High Hopes Fund, which provides support for research, clinical care and education for diabetics and their families.

This year, the event will also feature a raffle for a new black Vespa at Antico Forno. The Vespa was donated by Carla Gomes, the founder of CityFeast. Carla began this event to show her dedication and appreciation to Joslin after her son David was diagnosed with Type 1 diabetes on his first birthday. David has received care at Joslin for over 18 years.

Tickets are priced at $150 each; of which $100 is tax deductible. Due to high demand, reservations are limited, and will be distributed on a first come first serve basis. For more information on CityFeast or to purchase tickets visit: Http://www.joslin.org/cityfeast

I have been to a couple of these events and it is a fun and delicious event for a worthy cause. You can read my review of last years's CityFeast here. I hope to be at this year's event as well and maybe I will see some of my readers there.

2) Embarking on a health kick again this year ? Haru is here to help the cause without depriving your taste buds with two new specials for the months of January and February.

Forget the high-calorie cocktails and indulge in the Shiso Slim ($6), a semi-innocent pleasure. This sparkling “skinny” cocktail shakes up Voli Lemon vodka, St. Germain, pink grapefruit and yuzu juices, muddled shiso leaf and a splash of soda. Nix the carbs and go fish. Treat your mind and body to the new Haru-Style Sashimi ($15). This sashimi “flight” of tuna, salmon, yellowtail and fluke also features a selection of toppings including spicy snow crab, shiso and signature sauces. The Haru-Style Sashimi is served with a side salad of broiled eel and cucumber dressed in a citrus-soy.

3) On February 2, at 7pm, Towne Stove and Spirits will host a very special evening with the Castello di Ama winery. Established in 1972 and located in the heart of the Chianti Classico historical zone, Castello di Ama’s D.O.C.G. wines showcase the beauty of the Sangiovese grape from the heart of Tuscany.

Owner and winemaker Marco Pallanti will team up with Towne’s Culinary Director Lydia Shire and Executive Chef Mario Capone to present the following:

Reception
Castello di Ama Rosato 2009
Housemade Cotechino Sausage with mostarda and spoon of salmoriglio
Grilled Oysters Florentina
Saffron & Anchovy Fry Bread
Seated
Castello di Ama Al Poggio 2004
Smoked & Cured Swordfish with blood orange fennel salad topped with extra virgin olive oil from the estate
Fried Rabbit with mustard oil & white beet agnolotti del plin

Castello di Ama Chianti 2007
(two vintages)
Blade Steak with copertina di spalla, black truffled Chianti butter, stewed cavolo nero & chestnut gnocchi
Dessert
Torta Sabbiosa with warm poached winter pear & zabaione
Cappuccino

Cost: $150 per person (excludes tax & gratuity)
Reservations are required and may be made by contacting 617.247.0400.

Boston Food Bloggers, The Gauntlet of Poseidon Has Been Thrown

2012-01-11T04:00:00.004-05:00

The Fish Head Whisperer is throwing down the gauntlet of Poseidon, issuing a challenge to all Boston-area food bloggers. Will you dare compete against me for glory and money? Are you willing to test your abilities, to combat me in this writing competition? Will you confront me in an oceanic arena and see who shall prevail? Or will you be a coward and hide behind your boring recipes and restaurant reviews?

Last March, the International Boston Seafood Show (IBSS) came to the Boston Convention & Exhibition Center. Hundreds of vendors, connected to the seafood industry, attended this fascinating trade show. One of those vendors, iPura, which handles food safety, offered a challenge to local bloggers, the iPura Tweet & Blogfest. The concept was for local bloggers to tweet and blog about the IBSS and their writings would be assessed by an impartial judge, with the winner receiving $1000! Certainly a worthy prize and I am proud to say that I won last year's competition. Since then, and due to my achievement, I have assumed the mantle of the Fish Head Whisperer.

The competition is returning! iPura will hold their contest once again at the 2012 IBSS, which will be held March 11-13, 2012. Though the exact rules have not yet been posted, it will be very similar to the last contest. You will be judged on the quality, content, creativity/originality, number of entries, and depth of your tweets and blog posts concerning the IBSS. Your time to tweet and post will also be limited to essentially the length of the conference. If you win the competition, you will be awarded the Crown of Poseidon, the Greek god of the sea, and be named the Fish Head Whisperer. Plus get a net full of sea dollars!

As the reigning champion, the Fish Head Whisperer, I will be back to try to retain my crown and I am challenging all local food bloggers to come out and try to dethrone me. I am so confident that I will win the contest again, I am even going to tell you how to defeat me. Why? Because I don't think anyone will be willing to do what is necessary to accomplish that goal. Care to prove me wrong?

The essential key to winning is Proper Preparation. If you fail to prepare adequately before the show, you will have already lost before you even step onto the floor of the convention center. I won last year because of the time and effort I invested prior to the seafood show. Like a military operation, I engaged in reconnaissance and planning, research and testing. I desired to win and did whatever needed to be done to accomplish that goal.

Let me provide you with a template for your own preparations, the path you need to take if you have any hope of defeating me.

1) Proper equipment:
Don't treat this event like you would any other blogger food event. You will likely bring a notebook, pen, camera, recorder, smart phone and maybe a computer, feeling that is all you need. How wrong you are. If that is all you bring, you will miss out on some vital inside information, and your posts will lack the depth they could possess. You will be unable to gather some valuable news, gossip, rumors, data and more because you will not possess the tools needed to accomplish that goal.

You must bring a snorkel, facemask, wetsuit vest, waterproof camera, underwater writing slate and towel. Those items are necessary because you need to converse with the true insiders at the conference, the fish themselves. The humans at the show have significant gaps in their knowledge, and that can only be filled by the various fish at the conference. At times, you will need to enter their tanks to speak to these fish and get the best scoops. The fish can't hear you if you are just standing outside of their tanks, and they don't understand sign language.

Obviously, you won't enter the fish tanks during the regular conference hours. You will need to hide out inside the conference hall, and wait until the show closes down for the day. Once the vendors and staff clear out for the evening, and the lights are dimmed, you can then come out and enter the tanks. Just keep track of time so you are still not in a tank when the convention hall staff enters in the morning. When you exit a tank, make sure to dry off completely before walking away so you don't leave a dripping trail of water and get caught by security. The fish see everything, as they quietly swim in their tanks, and they might share those secrets with you.

2) Proper study:
But, entering the fish tanks will be useless unless you are also conversant in their various languages. Speaking with fish is not a common skill so you undoubtedly need some prior training to gain any level of proficiency. Your best resource is to use the Rosetta Stone: Aquaman Edition, which will give you a basic comprehension of the major fish languages. The Rosetta Stone also comes with a small, waterproof dictionary and phrase book which will allow you to figure out what other fish are saying. I have an advantage in this regard as during the past year, I have progressed to Rosetta Stone: Aquaman Edition Level 3. Don't let that stop you though from learning their languages.

Besides speaking their language, you also need to understand the personalities of the various fish, which ones are friendly, abrupt, garrulous, shy, deceptive, etc. Did you know that monkfish, though they look mean, are actually extremely friendly and helpful? Did you know that cod, while garrulous, also tend to be deceptive about personal matters? Did you know that Blue crabs, unlike King crabs, are not crabby at all and love a good chat? I recommend checking out the comprehensive reference book, The Psychology of Marine Life by famed oceanographer Jak Ku Sto. Jak truly understands the varied personalities of hundreds of different species of fish so it is a very helpful book.

3) Proper scheduling:
The IBSS runs for three days, Sunday to Tuesday, and you need to be present for all three days, as well as Sunday and Monday nights. If you normally work during the week, take off the time so you can attend the IBSS. Get lots of sleep the week before and plan on staying up for about 60 hours straight. Forget about sleep during that time period as you don't want to miss a single moment of the conference. Stock up on caffeine and energy drinks as you want to be alert throughout those 60 hours. It would not be good if you fell asleep in a fish tank.

There are over 800 exhibitors at the IBSS which means that even with 60 hours, that means you have less than 5 minutes per exhibitor. So you don't have time to waste. Every minute of your time must be devoted to the seafood show or you potentially will lose a good story. Forget breaks, and that includes bathroom stops, so just wear adult diapers and you won't have to visit the rest room. Make sure to multitask, eating samples while asking interview questions and taking notes. Yes, it is fine to talk with your mouth full as this is a contest and not an etiquette class.

4) Caveats:
If you are allergic to seafood, you might as will give it up unless you are willing to suck it up. This is a SEAFOOD show, with tons of free samples, and if you can't taste all of these foods, then you will miss out on some excellent topics for coverage. Now, if you are allergic but truly tough, then you will just load up on your meds and eat all the seafood anyways. If you do, be sure to bring something to handle anaphylactic shock, just in case, because your fellow bloggers won't help you as they are too busy trying to win the contest.

The greatest danger you will face during the IBSS will be at night, when everyone has cleared out. It is then that more than 20 polar bears start prowling the floors, seeking sustenance. They are not the smartest of creatures so they can be fairly easily outwitted, provided you do not react in fear when you encounter them. If you are inside a fish tank, they will pass you by. If you are outside the tanks, then pretend to be a statue and the polar bears will probably ignore you. I had no problems last year avoiding them, but you must remember, show no fear.

Trust me, these are some essential issues that any contender needs to seriously consider. Would I try to deceive my competitors? I may have more helpful advice in the near future too.

So bring on the competition!

(With tongue firmly in cheek, this originally was a guest post on Food Safety by iPura.)

Port Day: January 27

2012-01-10T09:40:00.001-05:00

"All wine would be Port if it could."
--Portuguese Proverb

The Center for Wine Origins has declared that January 27 will be Port Day, a celebration of this unique fortified wine from Portugal. What another grape/wine day? Yes, but this is one I support for a couple reasons. First, because I feel Port remains an under appreciated wine and efforts to raise awareness of it are worthy. Second, because I also support efforts to protect the designation Port, as it should only be used for authentic Port from Portugal. Around the world, numerous producers label their own fortified wines as "Port" and I don't feel that is right, even where it is legally allowed.

In 2010, the total quantity of Port Wine produced was about 6.7 million cases, a reduction of more than 10% since 2007, and production does seem to be on a continual decline. As for the purchasers of Port, France is the largest, buying about 28.5% of all Port production. Holland, in second place, purchases about 14.2% while Portugal itself, in a close third place, purchases about 14%. The U.S. occupies sixth place, buying only 3.9%, roughly 374,000 cases of Port which includes 107,000 Reserve Ports, 77,000 Ruby and 70,000 Tawny. U.S. purchases of Port have been generally declining though from a high of 4.6% in 2006, except for a slight boost in 2010 from 3.8% in 2009. So Port in the U.S. needs some support as obviously not enough people are enjoying the pleasures of Port.

Port Types include the following (and probably a couple others as well): White, Rose, Ruby, Tawny, Reserve, Reserve Tawny, Tawny with Indication of Age, Colheita, Garrafeira, Late Bottled Vintage, Crusted, Vintage, and Single Quinta Vintage. As you can see, there is plenty of diversity to explore. For added variety, over 100 grapes are permitted in the production of Port though only a small portion of those grapes are commonly used.

"Port is not for the very young, the vain and the active. It is the comfort of age and the companion of the scholar and the philosopher."
--Evelyn Waugh

How can you participate in Port Day? You can blog, tweet, post and share your thoughts about Port from Portugal by using the #PortDay hashtag. In addition, you can host or join an online or offline tasting event at one of the numerous retail and restaurant tastings that are being planned in locations across the United States. There is a Port Day event site where you can find local events of register your own event.

As part of this celebration, the Center for Wine Origins is even hosting a special Contest to encourage U.S. consumers to photograph their favorite authentic Port wines. To enter the contest to win an iPad 2, contest entrants need to send a picture of an authentic Port label to wineorigins@clsdc.com with the subject line as “Port Day 2012 Photo Contest Entry” or post the picture to your Facebook profile and tag yourself and the Center for Wine Origins in the picture. One Grand Prize winner will be selected randomly on January 25 and receive an iPad 2. Complete contest rules are available here.

How will I be celebrating Port Day? Well, you already may have seen that one of my resolutions for this year was to get more involved with Port and Madeira. I presently have a few Ports to sample and review, and on January 17, I will be attending a local Port dinner at Legal Sea Foods which should be a good opportunity to assess how different types of Port pair with food. And I am still pondering other ways in which I might celebrate.

Rant: Are You Tasting Wine Wrong?

2012-01-09T04:00:00.156-05:00

When you learned how to taste wine, you might have come across the "Five S" procedure: See, Swirl, Sniff, Sip, and Savor. Some tasting procedures may add others steps like Swish and Spit. At very large wine tastings, spitting becomes very common as you don't want to get drunk before tasting through all of the wines. But is there is a missing step in all these procedures? And is spitting the best way to truly experience the flavors of a wine?

A new release, Neurogastronomy: How the Brain Creates Flavor and Why It Matters by Gordon Shepherd (Columbia University Press, December 2011) helps provide some fascinating insight into these questions. This intriguing book discusses the differences between orthonasal and retronasal smell as well as taste and flavor. It also details the impact of our brains on determining flavors from smells. The book is not a easy read but you will find much of worth within its pages.

One step in tasting wine is devoted to smell, the Sniff phase, where you breathe in the odors of the wine, and this is known as the orthonasal. Yet our sense of smell has another component, one which you hear far less about and which many tasting procedures seem to fully, or at least partially, ignore. This is the retronasal, the breathing out, and it may seem strange to some that you can smell by exhaling. Before I explain more about the retronasal though, let us address the differences between taste and flavor.

There are five basic tastes, including sweet, salt, sour, bitter, and umami, and we basically experience these on our tongue through our taste buds. So it is biology that determines our sensitivity to these tastes and it is not something we can generally improve or change. Flavor though comes through the interplay of smells and our brains. Your tongue cannot detect cherries or grapefruit, merely when something is sweet or sour. Cherries and grapefruit are flavors that you discern through aromatic molecules that are interpreted by your brain. And you can learn to discern additional flavors through training.

Now, flavor is mostly determined by our retronasal smell, so why do so many people ignore this important element? By breathing out, with your mouth closed, the air in your lungs is forced into your mouth and then acquires the aromatic molecules from food and drink. As your mouth is closed, the air must then enter the nasal chambers where the aromatic molecules stimulate the olfactory sensory neurons, leading your brain to discern flavor. Chewing and swallowing assists in this process.

So, if you taste wine and spit, you are likely missing out on some of the flavors of wine due to a reduced chance to experience the retronasal smell. There are some ways to improve your retronasal experience even if you spit, such as swirling the wine in your mouth, releasing more of the aromatic molecules from the wine. You could also, with a mouthful of wine, exhale through your nose while your mouth is closed. Even if you do spit, you will probably swallow a tiny bit of wine, which will provide some retronasal smells though swallowing is probably the only way to gain the full effect.

So, though spitting may be essential to tasting through a group of wines, it may not be the best way to experience the flavors of a wine. So should we really base tasting notes on experiences where we spit the wines? Or should we instead only write them where we swallow the wine, and get the full retronasal effect? Consumers are most likely to drink and swallow the wines they buy, so should reviews, which hope to best inform these consumers, be based on swallowing the wine? Should reviews where you only spit the wine bear a caveat, informing consumers that you did not experience the full retronasal effect?

Do you taste wines paying attention to the retronasal, and if so, what do you do to experience the retronasal as much as possible?

Authors, Alcohol & Accolades: Volume 3

2012-01-06T04:00:00.110-05:00

"First you take a drink, then the drink takes a drink, then the drink takes you."
--F. Scott Fitzgerald

I am back with another volume in my new series, Authors, Alcohol & Accolades. Volume 1 and Volume 2 each showcased four of my favorite authors, and I have returned to highlight four more, and to delve into their drinks of choice. I have found this to provide a fascinating glimpse into the life of the writers I enjoy, and hope you like the interviews as well. You can look forward to further volumes in this series too, including possibly a nonalcoholic version.

Rhiannon Frater (Twitter: @RhiannonFrater)
Looking for an engaging zombie tale? Then you definitely need to check out Rhiannon's As The World Dies trilogy. The first two books are out, The First Days and Fighting To Survive, and the third book, Siege, is due out in April. These are more realistic zombie novels, with two strong female lead characters, Jenni and Katie, and detail efforts to start a new community, a haven from the zombie peril. Plenty of twists and turns, lots of action and suspense, and characters you will care about. These are some of the top zombie books I have read in the last couple years, and I eagerly await Siege. Rhiannon has written other works too, including The Tale of The Vampire Bride and its sequel The Vengeance of the Vampire Bride, gothic vampire tales. I have the first book but haven't read it yet.

"I used to love wine, Merlot and a good Shiraz being my favorites, until I started getting horrible migraines after just one glass. I sadly gave up wine and I sometimes miss having a nice red at my side when I write. My all-time favorite drink is a good frozen lime margarita with salt. I just love its sour/sweet flavor and the nice kick tequila administers. Since I live in Texas, the hot weather in the summer is perfect for margaritas. It’s not a very good drink to have while writing due to the tequila, but it’s a nice drink to have after pushing through a particularly difficult passage."

Tim Waggoner (Twitter: @TimWaggoner)
Tim is fairly prolific with over 20 novels and plenty of short stories and nonfiction articles. So far, I have only read the three books in his Matt Richter series: Nekropolis, Dark War, and Dead Streets. The series is about a zombie private investigator in a dark and well developed parallel universe. Call this zombie noir, and it is a fun ride, with plenty of humor and thrills on a very twisted world. I think Tim has created a unique and imaginative setting and the novels are addictive. I plan to read more of Tim's work and highly recommend this series.

"When it comes to hard liquor, I’m a vodka man. In my early twenties, I started drinking screwdrivers – probably because that was one of the few drinks I’d heard of – but I found the orange juice to be too thick and acidy, and it seemed to overpower the taste of the vodka. I switched to vodka sours, and while I enjoyed those more, they suffered from the same drawbacks as screwdrivers for me, although to a lesser extent. Plus, my throat would get really dry and scratchy as the night wore on. A friend introduced me to vodka shooters, and those gave me a truer taste of the vodka itself, so I decided to start drinking straight vodka, and that did it for me. I find pure vodka smooth and bracing at the same time, and while I’ll drink it warm or cold, I prefer it chilled just a bit. The coolness gives it an extra little bite I enjoy. The most powerful drink I ever had was when an Irish lass introduced me to Irish car bombs one St. Paddy’s day. Now that is a drink whose name is complete truth in advertising! I’m not much of a wine man – perhaps because of an unfortunate incident in my youth with a couple bottles of Boone’s Farm apple wine – although I occasionally enjoy some with meals. When I do have wine, I prefer a full-bodied merlot, and I don’t give a damn about any red wine with meat and white with fish foolishness. I drink what I damn well please! I also sometimes buy wine with weird names like Obnoxious Bastard or Bald Ostrich just for fun. For beer I prefer Sam Adams, although when I’m at a pub that brews their own, I usually ask the server for recommendations. Often I’ll try whatever versions of black and tan or pale ale they offer. I like a beer with some weight to its taste, but not so strong that I have to chew it!"

Daniel Polansky (Twitter: @DanielPolansky)
Daniel's debut novel is Low Town, a noirish fantasy novel, which was an impressive and gritty tale. The main character is a crime lord who gets drawn into solving the mystery of a murdered child. It is an exciting urban fantasy with an edge, a riveting tale with plenty of fascinating plot twists. This type of urban fantasy, with a more amoral protagonist, appeals to me and this is one of the better written ones out there. I am excited to revisit this setting again in the future when a sequel is published. Another strong recommendation.

"For my rapidly depreciating dollar, there is nothing to match Belgian beer. Don't tell the Germans this, or the Czechs, but as much as I like a good Franzizkaner or Pilsner Urquell, I'd dump them both in a toilet for a Chimay or a Kasteel Tripel. A friend and I once spent a few days touring WWI battlefields and getting hammered, and though I remember very little in terms of specifics, my general impression is that we had a really good time."

Mazarkis Williams (Twitter: @Mazarkis_W)
Mazarkis is another debut fantasy writer with the newly released novel, The Emperor's Knife. With a Middle Eastern flair to the setting, the book is a Gordian knot of political intrigue and a dark magical threat. The characters are fascinating, the setting is interesting, and the plot winds and twists along to a very satisfying conclusion. Most everything is resolved, rather than many other fantasy novels which leave multiple cliffhangers to be resolved in the rest of the trilogy. Though it is not a difficult read, the careful reader may garner more than the casual one due to the intricacies of the plot. Another top recommendation.

"When I was at university I had the privilege of living in France for a month, and on top of that, I was hosted by a chef. He kept a wine cellar, and every night he'd bring up some bottles, take some time to describe what I was about to experience, then begin pouring. On formal occasions, I received a different glass of wine for every course, and was told it was rude not to finish each one. Of course I was young and too busy enjoying the moment (and too drunk) to write anything down. To some extent, my relationship with wine ever since has been a long attempt to recapture those taste sensations."

"I have had more luck with beer. I experiment with artisanal beer, but that is an expensive hobby and can often be disappointing. In Massachusetts, when I need to be sure that I am going to enjoy the brew, I fall back on our local Ipswich Ale Brewery. Their best is in their "growlers," big glass jugs full of heady, slightly sweet, toasty ale--but in most cases, only their single-serving bottles are available, in a traditional six-pack. They produce Ipswich Ale, Ipswich IPA, Ipswich Oatmeal Stout, and Ipswich Dark Ale, together with a number of seasonal ales. The Ipswich Ale Brewery also puts out a number of specialty products, including the Five Mile Stock Ale, made mostly of local ingredients. When you consider that they sell natural soda pop and delicious mustard alongside their brews, what can go wrong?"

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

2012-01-05T04:00:00.059-05:00

I am back again with a new edition of Thursday Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I briefly highlight some interesting wine and food items that I have encountered recently.
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1) Happy National Whipped Cream Day! For more information on this holiday, check out my prior post about this sweet celebration. What is your favorite way to use whipped cream?

2) Dorchester-Milton Restaurant Week, which began in 2010, is returning Sunday through Thursday nights between January 15 and 30, 2012. Expect three-course dinners for $30.12 at nine restaurants, each located within a few blocks of each other (the prix fixe menus should be online soon). Advance reservations are appreciated, but not required.

Participating restaurants include 224 Boston Street (224 Boston Street, Dorchester), 88 Wharf (88 Wharf Street, Milton), Abby Park (550 Adams Street, Milton), Ashmont Grill (555 Talbot Avenue, Dorchester), Blarney Stone (1505 Dorchester Avenue, Dorchester), dbar (1236 Dorchester Avenue, Dorchester), Ledge Kitchen & Drinks (2261 Dorchester Avenue, Dorchester), Savin Bar & Kitchen (112 Savin Hill Avenue, Dorchester), and Tavolo (1918 Dorchester Avenue, Dorchester).

3) "A popular Mexican legend tells the story of a disobedient young girl, who despite her parents’ wishes sneaks off to dance the night away. The most handsome and charming man at the dance sweeps her off her feet and before she knows it she is lost in his eyes. When she looks down she notices that her dance partner is wearing no shoes, in fact he does not have feet, but cloven hoofs. It is at this point that the young girl realizes that she is actually dancing with the devil. What happens from there varies from town to town in Mexico. Some say upon being discovered the devil vanishes and leaves the poor young girl with a permanent burn in the shape of a handprint. Some say that the girl disappears in a whiff of smoke forever."

On Tuesday, January 17, 2012, from 5pm-10pm, Zócalo Cocina Mexicana invites guests in to dance with the devil themselves as they present “Bailando con el Diablo” an evening featuring some of the world’s hottest food and drink. Guests will be offered a 3-course prix fixe menu for $38 featuring chiles from Mexico and beyond. With dishes such as their Chile en Nogada – (roasted chile poblano stuffed with beef picadillo on almond puree topped with pomegranate seeds and parsley), and their Tinga de Puerco Taco – (shredded pork with roasted tomatoes and chipotle chiles), guests culinary senses will be heightened and put to the test with the added option of adding “Devil Sauce” to any dish comprised of some of the world’s hottest chiles.

The dance continues with a special hot and cool cocktail menu created by Zócalo Cocina Mexicana and sponsored by Jim Beam® Devil's Cut™. From the “Hell’s Manhattan” (Hot!) with Jim Beam® Devil's Cut™, chipotle infused sweet vermouth and hellfire bitters, to the “Cucumber Margarita” (Cool!) featuring Tres generations reposade tequila, muddled cucumber, fresh lime juice and orange liquor, guests will be able to push their dance to the limit or slow it down if it gets too hot to handle.

All dishes and cocktails will also be offered as à la carte specials and Zócalo Cocina Mexicana’s regular menu will also be available for those afraid to “Dance with the Devil!” Reservations recommended by calling (617) 456-7849.

Bailando con el DIABLO Dinner Menu
Tres Tacos
Tinga de Puerco – shredded pork with roasted tomatoes and chipotle chiles
Chilorio de Res – Shredded beef with guajillo chile, vinegar and spices
Chile Poblano con chile Serrano – creamy poblano peppers with chile serrano
Or
Ceviche de Atun (Marinated tuna with salsa habanero)
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Chile en Nogada (Roasted chile poblano stuffed with beef picadillo on almond puree topped with pomegranate seeds and parsley)
Or
Filet de Res Con Shiitake en Salsa de chile Morita y Pequin (Beef tenderloin filet with shiitake mushrooms in chile morita-pequin and tomatillo sauce
Or
Salmon con Salsa de Papaya y Tequila (Salmon with papaya-tequila salsa and a mystery chile sauce)
~~All entrees are served with Mexican rice and refried black beans~~
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Panecillo de Chocolate (Rich chocolate bread pudding with ancho chiles. Served with vanilla bean ice cream)
or
Tequilla-Lime Sorbetes (Sorbet with spicy chile jalapeño)

4) Chinese New Year or “Spring Festival” marks the transition from winter to spring in China and is the longest and most important holiday in the Chinese Lunisolar Calendar. For 15 days, starting in January, Fóumami Asian Sandwich Bar will celebrate the Year of the Dragon.

Enjoy these Fóumami Chinese New Year specials:

La Long Sandwich (Spicy Dragon Sandwich)
Pulled pork rubbed and braised in a house-made red spicy Chinese barbecue sauce, topped with shredded cabbage, scallions and drizzled with house-made spicy jalapeno-based hot sauce.
Symbolism: Pork is eaten regularly during Chinese New Year and it represents strength, wealth and abundant blessing. This sandwich exhibits the colors red, green and gold, which are the colors of a Chinese dragon. The pulled pork’s shape and texture resembles the twirling body of the dragon.

Longan Melon Soda
Melon soda drizzled with longan juice and topped with fresh longans.
Symbolism: Melon represents good health and family unity. This drink is green in color, which to the Chinese represents health, prosperity and harmony. The English transliteration for the Chinese word “longan” is "dragon eye".

Customers will also have the opportunity to receive special gifts throughout the celebration. Red envelopes containing cash or other presents are often exchanged during Chinese New Year. Fóumami will be giving one customer a day, throughout the 15-day festival, a traditional red envelope gift with their purchase.

WHEN: January 23 – February 6, 2012

5) With the holidays past and several months of cold New England weather ahead, the "winter blues" can creep in and take hold of even those with the most optimistic outlook. Blue on Highland, located in Needham, has not only recognized this trend, but has created an entire menu to address the annual issue.

"Who doesn't feel bummed out a little bit when the winter months roll in? We thought it would be a cute way to get people's spirits up," said Catherine Walkey, owner of Blue on Highland, when speaking about their new "It's OK to be Blue" menu that highlights foods that are said to naturally enhance your mood and to alleviate stress. The “It’s OK to be Blue” menu is offered in addition to the regular menu and is available during dinner service beginning Sunday, January 15th, 2012 through the end of March 2012.

And no “feel good” menu would be complete without a cocktail. Blue on Highland will be lifting guest’s spirits with the “Wellbutini,” a liquid pick-me-up consisting of Rain Organics Red Grape Hibiscus Vodka and vitamin-packed fruit juices, available for $11. That’s not all, each guest that orders off of the “It’s OK to be Blue” menu will receive a personalized package of sunflower seeds to plant to remind them that the spring, sun and fun is just around the corner.

MENU:
Appetizers
--Spinach Salad (blue cheese, walnuts, bacon, golden raisins, balsamic vinaigrette) $10
WHY: Spinach is rich with magnesium, a mineral that helps lower your stress level by keeping you in a calm state, as well as calcium, iron, foliate and vitamin B12. Vitamin B12 and folic acid are known to help prevent disorders of the central nervous system, mood disorders and dementias
--Tuna Poke with crispy wontons, $12
WHY: Tuna is naturally loaded with Omega-3 fatty acids that help keep your adrenaline from rising, and your stress levels under control.

Entrées
--Grilled Salmon (jasmine rice, asparagus, saffron aioli) $22
WHY: Loaded with protein which helps stabilize blood sugar, salmon is also a natural source of Tryptophan, the amino acid found to relieve depression. It also contains vitamin D, known to help fight seasonal depression.
--Half Roasted Chicken (roasted garlic jus, mashed potato, green beans) $21
WHY: Among other amino acids and nutrients, chicken contains Vitamin B6 which plays an important role in serotonin production. Low levels of serotonin are directly linked with seasonal affective disorder (SAD)

Dessert
--Cookies & Cream (Susie’s Smart chocolate chip cookies with a scoop of green tea ice cream) $8
WHY: Rich in omega 3’s and whole grains, you can feel good about eating a dessert that makes you actually feel good!

6) BOKX 109 American Prime and Hotel Indigo are partnering up with Rutherford Wine Company, the California Winery dedicated to crafting 100% sustainable fine wines, to host a special evening in conjunction with the Boston Wine Exposition on Thursday, January 19th.

Guests will indulge in an exclusive menu created by Executive Chef Jarrod Moiles, and paired with wines from Napa Valley and Arroyo Seco. The four-course menu will be served with a selection of Rutherford Ranch wines hand-picked by Tyson Wolf, Rutherford Wine Company’s Associate. Wolf will be on-hand the night of the event to help host an intimate wine reception before the dinner where guests will have the chance to enjoy Rutherford’s own 2010 Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc. The wine reception begins at 6pm followed by the dinner at 6:30 pm

The menu will include the following:

First Course
Cast Iron Scallop with Lobster Saffron Cream, Chorizo and fried Parsnip
Paired with 2010 Rutherford Ranch, Napa Valley, Chardonnay
Second Course
Petite Pizzette of Duck served with house made grilled Dough,
Prosciutto, Black Mission Figs, Asparagus and Brie
Paired with 2010 Scott Family Estate Pinot Noir
Third Course
Double Cut Center Lamb Rack Chop prepared with Lamb Sausage and White Bean Ragout,
Rustic Corn Cake, Rainbow Chard and Black Sour Cherry Gastrique
Paired with 2008, Rutherford Ranch, Napa Valley, Zinfandel
Fourth Course
Braised Brandt Farm Beef Short Rib served with 48-hour Bordelaise,
Crispy Baby Winter Vegetable, steamed Cream and Fried Shallot
Paired with 2007, Rutherford Ranch Reserve, Napa Valley, Cabernet Sauvignon

COST: $79 per person (price excludes tax and gratuity)
Please make reservations for this event in advance by calling: 617-454-3399

Culinary Creativity: Chef Keith Pooler

2012-01-04T04:00:00.001-05:00

Chef Keith Pooler, of Bergamot in Somerville, is a native of Gloucester, Massachusetts, and he grew up appreciating the sea and its bounty. Since he was 14 year old, Keith has been working in restaurants, eventually graduating from the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, NY. While in school, he completed stages in Union Square, Vong, and The Gotham Bar and Grill. After working at a few other New York restaurants, he returned to Boston where he became the sous chef at Harvest. With stints at Excelsior and Scampo, working with famed Lydia Shire, Keith finally chose to open his own restaurant, Bergamot.

At Bergamot, Pooler combines his respect for local, sustainable and seasonal ingredients with a deft hand and innovative techniques. Chef Pooler states: “I can’t wait to see what we can accomplish as we continue to grow. We are so grateful for the warm welcome. Our team is the most dedicated one I’ve ever worked with, and it shows.” I am a huge fan of Bergamot, and it won as my Overall Favorite Restaurant of 2011, in part due to the creativity of Chef Pooler. If you have not eaten there yet, you should make reservations and check out this amazing restaurant.

(Check out my Introduction to the Culinary Creativity series.)

Now onto the interview--

How important is culinary creativity to you? Why is it important?
Culinary creativity is the aspect that drives me. If I had to choose my favorite part of my job it is creating and the satisfaction of seeing it come to fruition. When that dish comes out as good as you see it in your head or better that makes my day. If it misses the mark than it is something to work on or reassess. I believe that in my field you are a combination of tradesman and artist. Chefs talk about a love of one particular aspect of food (butchering, charcuterie, plating food, etc… ), for me I like it all. The tradesman part of the job takes the creative side and makes it come alive. When I opened Bergamot I wanted it to always evolve and change. There is not a part of the job that is not important, but the creative part is the spark that makes me work harder.

Where do you get your ideas for new recipes/dishes?
To be creative and to be inspired you need a repertoire. I have worked and breathed food for my whole life and there is always something around the corner that moves me. It could be a conversation with another Chef, cook book, an awesome meal or a stroll down an aisle in the grocery store. I always have scrap paper in my pocket with a menu idea or something that I liked. I wish I could sit down and have it all be neat and organized one day. I have note books with flavor combinations that I like and recipes that I have clipped from magazines. In the last year I have not opened it once. I have been doing most of my creating in the walk-in, just letting the food sing.

Do other members of your staff assist with creating ideas for new recipes/dishes?
I created the kitchen at Bergamot with the idea that I was making a Culinary Think Tank. One of the biggest problems with Chefs is ego. I do not get to give enough credit to the people behind me. I am the front man that everyone is supposed to remember. I surround myself with passionate cooks and out of that passion we create some amazing food. I love to talk about food and help my staff to develop their creative mojo. We together are far better than just one of us. I act as a funnel that take ideas and visions and molds them into the final product. I make the call if it needs to be tweaked. I like when the cooks come to me and say “What if”

How do you test new recipes/dishes?
The Black Board at Bergamot is the way we test out new ideas. It changes almost daily. We like to say if you like dinner tonight comeback next week and we will have something different. Having a constantly changing menu is a win win. You keep the guests intrigued and the cooks challenged. Since we have been open we have only repeated ourselves a few times to honor articles in magazines and news papers.

Do you ever experience “writer’s block,” an inability to be creative, and if so, how do you deal with it?
I only find creative block, when I try and force something. I tend to close my mind and stubbornly focus on one aspect. When this happens I either get very frustrated or walk away. The worst is when I dream about food and the next day I try and remember exactly what it was.

Any additional thoughts on creativity?
What I find to be cool about Bergamot is we have no restrictions we just want to have fun. We like to make something out of nothing. We like to take ordinary and make it unusual. We like to think outside the box. The hardest thing I have to do is describe my food. It is not that it is wacky and strange, but because it is a lot of influences, ideas and techniques all rolled into one. I think of it as us trying to capture the moment.

2009 Sadie Family Palladius: A Swartland Treasure

2012-01-03T04:00:00.005-05:00

During the last couple years, Swartland, a wine region in South Africa, has rose in prominence, receiving much attention in the wine press. Some amazing wines are being produced in this region, yet the average wine drinker probably has never tasted a wine from this area, and knows very little about what is happening in this region. This is a region that you should learn about, and find a way to experience their wines.

Just before Christmas, my friend Adam, of Wine-Zag, gave me a bottle of 2009 Sadie Family Palladius, a Swartland wine. In early 2010, after a visit to South Africa, Adam reviewed the 2008 Sadie Family Palladius, stating "...the wine is a knockout and very, very special." More recently, after another trip to South Africa, Adam wrote a fascinating article about the Swartland region.

With a dinner of seared scallops, I chose to open the Palladius, initially believing that it was my first time drinking this wine. I later learned that back in 2007, I tasted the 2004 Palladius, and had been very impressed with the wine. Well, the 2009 Palladius was equally as impressive and receives my strongest recommendation.

The Sadie Family winery is only about 10 years old, but it has already received much acclaim. In 2010, Platter's South African Wine Guide, the wine "bible" of South Africa pronounced Sadie Family Wines their Winery Of The Year and the 2008 Palladius as their White Blend Of The Year. Sadie produces a red blend, called Columella, which is named after an ancient Roman who wrote one of the most famous books on viticulture, De re Rustica. So, when choosing a name for their white blend, they went with Palladius, the name of another Roman who wrote Opus agriculturae, a treatise on farming which apparently used Columella's book as a model. The first vintage of Palladius was 2002.

The 2009 Sadie Family Palladius (around $60) seems to be a blend of eight white grapes, though the exact blend appears unclear and I have seen some contradictory information. Sources seem to agree the blend includes Chenin Blanc, Roussanne, Grenache Blanc, Viognier, Clairette Blanc and Palomino. As for the other two grapes, they might be Chardonnay, Semillon, Marsanne, or Verdelho. Some of these grapes are old vines too, like 88 year old Semillon and 35 year old Palomino. Now that is quite a blend of grapes, similar in some ways to a Rhone-style blend. 2009 was considered an excellent vintage, and this wine was aged for two years in barrel. The concept behind this wine was that it should age well in the bottle, pair well with food, and reflect terroir.

This is a sublime wine, which dazzles with its complexity, flavors and structure. From an alluring nose to a compelling taste, this wine is sure to impress almost any wine lover. Savor plenty of acidity, a very long and satisfying finish and its round, full mouth feel. It possesses an intriguing melange of flavors including citrus, peach, honey, spices, herbs, and minerality. In fact, the more time you savor and reflect on the wine, the more subtle flavors which seem to surface in your mouth. The Palladius paired very well with the scallops, and seems like it would be an excellent seafood wine, though I suspect it would match well with a variety of foods, from chicken to maybe even some meats like pork. This wine receives my highest recommendation.

Rant: Wine Bloggers, I Call You Out Once Again

2012-01-02T04:00:00.136-05:00

Last year at this time, I threw down a gauntlet and issued a challenge to all wine bloggers. In the comments, in emails, and on Twitter, some wine bloggers stepped forward to accept the challenge. Others remained silent, so it is unknown whether they also took on this challenge or simply chose to ignore it.

So, during the past year, have those who accepted my challenge lived up to it, or did they fail? And what about the silent majority?

Let me preface this with a few comments, echoing the words I wrote last year. I repeat that "There is not a single wine blog out there that cannot be improved." If you look back over the past year and find that your blog has not really changed, then you are doing something wrong. You are mired in stagnation, a swamp of the mundane and boring. Blogs should be dynamic, ever changing, ever improving. Hopefully you have been learning about wine over the past year, and your blog should reflect your greater knowledge, and maybe even wisdom. You should be honing your writing skills, getting better all the time. You should be constantly hunting for new topics to cover, rather than rehashing the same tired old issues time and time again.

As I peruse over numerous wine blogs, I an saddened to see some excellent ones which no longer exist, or are on hiatus. I also see far too many which dismay me. My thoughts from last year remain relevant and bear repeating. "Face the truth, the majority of wine blogs are not worth reading. They offer little, if anything, of unique value so there is nothing to differentiate them from the mass of other wine blogs out there. Others are just damn boring, like watching infomercials about toilet bowl cleaners all day. Some repulse through their mercenary motivation, their obvious desire to write simply to gain free wine. Others amaze you with their ignorance of the very subjects they write about."

These are harsh words which might offend some but they are nothing that numerous others have not said during the past year. If you are truly honest and objective in your heart, you will know my words are true. There is no need to specifically out any individual blogger as I don't want to get mired in personal battles which will only cloud the greater issues that need to be addressed. There is also no need to provide a gladiatorial arena of accusations and personal attacks for the enjoyment of others, further clouding the general points I am trying to make.

Since last January, I have implored bloggers to improve themselves and their writing. I am not asking them to become professionals, merely to accept the personal challenge to better themselves and their blogs. That is a worthy goal and I fail to understand why someone would not want to rise to that challenge. Previously, I have asked wine bloggers to take risks, and not be a fucking wallflower. I also suggested they follow the advice of Jancis Robinson and embrace the acronym AHOO (accuracy, humility, opinionated and original). Posts such as these seemed to be well received but was anyone really listening? Did anyone actually take action based on these suggestions?

I took on my own challenge, and believe I succeeded in changing and improving my blog over the past year. I think I took more risks, tried to write more original, unique posts, as well as continued to learn more about wine. I have tried to cover more uncommon and unusual wines, rather than the same old California Cabernet and Chardonnays. I have written far fewer lone tasting notes, instead finding ways to integrate such reviews into more informative and entertaining posts. I am prouder of my blog this past year than previous ones. But, I fully understand that there is still plenty of room for improvement and I will take on the challenge once again this year.

So, all those who accepted my challenge last year, did you succeed? Or if not, why not?

My challenge does not end now that 2011 is over, but rather is something that I am issuing once again for 2012. I am throwing the gauntlet back down and daring all wine bloggers to step up and accept my challenge. Change and improvement should never end. I know some bloggers will ignore me once again, and that is fine as they do so at their peril. Do you really want to be left behind, when your peers are improving their blogs? Do you really want to do the same exact thing you did last year? Don't you want to better yourself?

So will you accept my challenge and truly try to improve your wine blog? Or will you take the easy path, remaining stagnant and stale?

I know that I am not alone in my feelings, and I am glad to see others taking up the mantle, asking fellow wine bloggers to step up to the plate and improve. Check out The Wine Blogger Dilemma by Evil Bottle, whose words may be harsh, but his passion is undeniable. Sometimes, someone has to tell the Emperor that he is not wearing any clothes.

Happy New Year!

2012-01-01T02:00:00.035-05:00

Happy New Year to everyone! As 2012 begins, I wish only the best for my family, friends, and readers. I hope you all find that the new year is even better than the previous one.

The last couple years have been challenging ones for many of us, especially economically, and it is my fervent hope that 2012 bring a much better economic outlook for all of us. No matter what happens though, we shall find a way to make 2012 a great year. Try to maintain a positive attitude, no matter what happens, and you can get through anything.

For The Passionate Foodie, I have plenty of ideas and plans: places to visit, issues to examine, wines to drink, food to eat, books to read, and much, much more. For example, I plan to revisit some restaurants, wine shops, food markets and other places which I have previously only visited once, such as 51 Lincoln and Wine Nation. I want to see whether such places have changed, whether my opinions about them need to be modified. I plan to visit Kentucky, for the Derby, and tour some of the bourbon distilleries there. I also plan to attend the Wine Blogger's Conference in Portland, Oregon, returning to a city which I very much enjoyed this past fall. I want to devote more time and study to Port and Madeira, fortified Portuguese wines with intriguing histories. And I have some secret plans as well, which I can't yet reveal.

These are but samples of some of what I have planned for the coming year, and I hope to do much more. If you have any suggestions for me, please leave them in the comments or email me. I am always looking for new and interesting food, wine, sake, and spirits places to check out.

Thanks so much to all of my readers during the past year, and best wishes to you for the coming year. I hope you will continue to read my blog in 2012, and please send me your feedback and criticism so I can make Passionate Foodie even better.

Dine and drink with passion all year round!

O-toso Sake For The New Year

2011-12-30T04:00:00.111-05:00

Raise a sakazuki of o-toso and toast Oshogatsu, the New Year.

About 130 years ago, after adopting the Gregorian calendar, Japan began celebrating New Year’s Day on January 1. One of the numerous Japanese customs surrounding this holiday involves sharing glasses of o-toso, a special herbal steeped sake. The term "toso" literally means “to kill or defeat an evil spirit.” O-toso is supposed to protect people from disease and promote long life, defeating the "evil spirits" which might harm someone. And you don't necessarily even have to drink it to garner its positive benefits. There is an old saying that if a single family member drinks some o-toso, then everyone in that family will be protected against illness. That sounds good but can be even better, for if every family member drinks some o-toso, then their entire village will be protected against illness. So the more people drinking o-toso the better it is for all.

Like sake itself, o-toso originated in China, sometime between the 2nd and 3rd centuries. A famous Chinese physician, Dr. Hua Tuo, who was skilled in surgery, anesthesia, acupuncture, and herbal medicine, is thought to be the inventor of o-toso. Hua added a special mixture of herbs to some sake to create an herbal medicine, o-toso. That was not his only alcohol-related invention for he also created another concoction called mafeisan ("cannabis boiling powder"), which was an anesthetic and created through mixing herbs with alcohol, maybe also sake.

It would not be until around the 9th century that o-toso started being being found in Japan and it was first only available to the nobility. Over time, it would slowly spread to the common people as well, which makes sense considering the history of sake during those centuries. It appears that o-toso first became associated with the New Year during the Edo period, when pharmacies started giving out the o-toso herb mixture, called tososan, to their patients as an o-seibo, a year-end gift. At home, the patients could soak the tososan in some sake, and then drink the sake, hoping that it would give them good health in the New Year.

It is thought that the original tososan mixture consisted of eight herbs, including cinnamon bark, rhubarb, sanshou (Japanese pepper), and less common items like kikyou (platycodi radix) and okera (atractylodis rhizome). This mixture has changed over time, and it is now common to find tososan in Japan made from apiaceae, asiasari radix, atractylodes Japonica, Chinese bellflower, cinnamon, dried ginger, rhubarb and sanshou. You will also find other mixtures using a different combination of herbs. In Japan, there are numerous stores where you can purchase the tososan mixture to take home and mix into your sake. In the U.S., it is tougher to find, but you can find it at some Japanese grocery stores.

Different regions of Japan have developed their own o-toso drinking rituals, but one form seems to have become most dominant. There are supposed to be three o-toso cups, which resemble sakazuki, and they are of different sizes, so that they stack well together, one atop the other. The o-toso is poured from a vessel resembling a teapot and you are supposed to drink, while facing east, from the smallest cup to the largest.

There is some variation as to who drinks first in the household. In some regions of Japan, the head of the household will drink first while in other regions, the youngest member of the family will drink first, ending with the oldest member. It is felt that this progression will assist in passing youth onto the older members, though there may be a darker reason as well. There is allegedly an ancient Chinese tradition that young people would test drinks for their elders, to determine if the drink contained poison or not. So, if the o-toso were poisoned, you would not lose one of the revered elders.

In another older tradition, there appears to be different types of o-toso, though I had difficulty finding detailed information on these other types. The first, and smallest cup, is made with the usual tososan mixture but the second and third cups are prepared instead with mixtures called byakusan and toshōsan. Byakusan may be made with herbs and bits of meat and it is unclear what toshōsan contains. It seems that over time, the custom has become simpler, using only the tososan.

So raise a glass of o-toso and say "Akemashite omedetou gozaimasu." (Happy New Year!)

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

2011-12-29T04:00:00.031-05:00

I am back again with a new edition of Thursday Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I briefly highlight some interesting wine and food items that I have encountered recently.
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1) The Dorchester Community Food Cooperative cuts the ribbon on its much-anticipated Winter Farmer’s Market in Codman Square Great Hall on January 8. Simultaneously, Ashmont Grill's Give Back @ The Grill program enters its second year by supporting the Dorchester Community Food Coop throughout the month of January.

Proceeds of its Monday Night Wine Club will be donated directly to the Food Coop. That’s $5 out of every $38 three-course wine tasting sold on Monday nights during January. If Wine Club sells out on those five consecutive Mondays, the Food Coop stands to benefit by close to $2,000. That’s a significant windfall for a fledging organization whose goal is to serve the civic and nutritional needs of the neighborhood.

“General Manager Tara O’Riordan has lined up the Give Back @ The Grill program’s beneficiaries for most of the year ahead. Proceeds for February and March will be donated to Elizabeth Seton Academy and to Codman Academy, respectively. Monday Night Wine Club events will feature small plates of seasonal fare paired with: New World wines (Jan. 2), Jean Bousquet of Argentina (Jan. 9), Italian Reds vs. Whites (Jan. 16), Viva La France (Jan. 23) and the Pacific Northwest (Jan. 30).

2) Before Clio temporarily closes its doors for renovations in mid-January to mark its 15th anniversary, Ken Oringer celebrates his flagship restaurant’s storied history with a retrospective menu that pays homage to the exotic ingredients, cutting-edge techniques and dramatic presentations that have earned him raves from Food & Wine, Gourmet, Esquire and more since opening the doors in 1997.

The nine-course menu features:

Tomato Water Martini (Basil Oil, Caperberry and Tomato “Popsicle”)
· This non-alcoholic, crystal-clear cocktail has been offered as an amuse bouche since Clio’s opening in 1997.
Island Creek Oysters (Cranberry Verjus, Osetra Caviar, Lily White)
· As one of the first restaurants to open its doors to the local Duxbury oyster farm that now supplies oysters to some of the country’s best restaurants, Clio celebrates its 10-year friendship with Island Creek Oysters by showcasing the local product through this humble, yet elegant dish.
Cassolette of Sea Urchin and Lobster (Parsnip Milk, Crispy Shallots, Candied Lemon)
· Considered by Chef Ken Oringer to be the best dish ever created at Clio, this cassolette led to Oringer’s victory against Iron Chef Cat Cora on The Food Network’s “Iron Chef America.”
60° Poached Egg (White Asparagus, Crunchy Maple, Jamon Foam)
· Though the immersion circulator is a universal kitchen tool today, Clio started using it 12 years ago to create a slow-poached egg that playfully combines salty, sweet and earthy flavors
Celery Root Mousseline (Truffle Fondue, Bitter Cocoa)
· The result of Oringer’s time working alongside Ferran Adrià in the laboratory at El Bulli, this is the first foam preparation to have ever been served at Clio 14 years ago.
Lacquered Foie Gras (Sweet and Sour Lemon, Wild Ginger, Bee Pollen)
· Another dish inspired by Oringer’s friendship with an artisan producer, this dish features local Cape Cod bee pollen and Hudson Valley foie gras made by Oringer’s former college roommate.
Venison Cooked In Espresso Oil (Smoked Celery Root, Persimmon, Mugolio Jus)
· A variation on a dish that Oringer prepared for Iron Chef America, this new menu item has never been served at Clio before and provides a unique sneak peek into what the menu will look like post-renovation.
“Textures” of Winter Citrus (L’orange Sanguine, Aloe Ice, Hibiscus Sorbet)
· An updated version of a signature dessert created by former Clio Pastry Chef Alex Stupak (WD-50, Alinea, Empellón).
Milk Chocolate Geode (Hazelnut Sorbet, Milk Powder, Chicory Crumble)
· An updated version of a signature dessert created by former Clio Pastry Chef Rick Billings (L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon, China Poblano by José Andrés).

WHEN: January 9-14, 2012
COST: $125/person
RESERVATIONS: Recommended; please call 617-536-7200.

3) Tryst, in Arlington, is launching its new Retro Brunch on Sunday, January 8th, 2012. Highlighting breakfasts of the past and throwback desserts like their house-made Twinkies and Devil Dogs, guests can look forward to stick-to-your-ribs, retro- fueled fare with culinary whim. Enjoy deep-caloric indulgences such as Annie's French Toast ($10) made with warm Portuguese sweet bread and cinnamon cider apples, or for something more hearty, try the Tryst Steak & Eggs ($17) featuring grilled steak, two eggs, crispy potatoes & hollandaise. You can also find dishes like the from-scratch Lemon & Ricotta Pancakes ($10) or Hand Cut Tagliatelle Carbonara ($12 half order/ $19 full) with poached farm egg, crispy prosciutto, pecorino romano & cracked pepper.

It's not all about the food though. Guests can kick back and enjoy classic ‘50’s and ‘60’s music all morning and afternoon. And what would brunch be without handcrafted cocktails. Enjoy the “Father Knows Best Headache Powders” made with Ovaltine for those recovering from an evening of too much time travel, and the “Leave it to Beaver,” a blend of Bluecoat Gin, Cointreau, citrus, cream, and soda, both available for $12.

The Tryst Retro Brunch is only available on Sundays from 11AM to 2:30PM, and reservations are recommended so please call 781-641-2227.

4) On Sunday, January 29, 2012 from 4pm-7pm, China Blossom, located in North Andover, and the Andover Chinese Cultural Exchange (ACCE) will celebrate the Chinese New Year with a festival sponsored by Yang’s Martial Arts. The Chinese New Year is a time to bring family together for feasting and celebration, and China Blossom will highlight this with authentic cuisine as well as various Asian traditions.

Guests will indulge in a dim sum buffet while they enjoy butt-kicking gong fu (kung fu) and lion dance demonstrations, as well as traditional Chinese dances and live cultural music. World-renowned player Zhan-tao Lin will wow the crowd with the Er-hu, which is similar to a violin with an exception of two strings. Lin is a professional musician from China who has won many competitions and performs broadly in the New England area, including at the Museum of Fine Arts in Boston, Ma. In addition, celebrated musician Shin-Yi Yang is sure to please with the Gu-zheng, an ancient Chinese instrument that has strings that are plucked like a guitar’s. Yang is the founder of the Boston Guzheng Ensemble and the two-time winner of the Traditional Arts Apprenticeship given by the Massachusetts Cultural Council's Folk Arts and Heritage Program. After you’ve had your fill of live entertainment, get the whole family involved with calligraphy and children’s crafts and don’t go home empty handed! There will be giveaways all evening!

Tickets are $25 per person (Senior and children pricing is available: Seniors, $20, Under 11, $15, Under 5, $9). Proceeds will benefit the ACCE, a non-profit community group dedicated to introducing Chinese culture. ACCE provides educational opportunities and support for charitable causes in the Merrimack Valley.

Seating is limited. To reserve early call Richard SooHoo, President of the ACCE at 978-470-2293 or email richsoohoo@aol.com.

2010 Tikal Natural Malbec: Ernesto & Llamas

2011-12-28T04:00:00.062-05:00

Have you ever sipped a wine that reminded you of llamas? Recently, I did and it is not as unusual as it may sound.

Last spring, I traveled to Argentina and met Ernesto Catena, the son of the renowned Nicolás Catena Zapata, and you can read of that encounter in Alma Negra: A Japanese Aesthetic in Argentina. Ernesto is quite the character, and definitely an intelligent and passionate man. One of his projects involves the Tikal Wines, which have been undergoing some significant changes within the last few years. In 2009, Ernesto produced his first Tikal Natural, a wine made from organically certified grapes, but his ultimate goal is to have his first biodynamic harvest in 2012.

I received a sample of the 2010 Tikal Natural Malbec (around $20) and decided to open it with a hearty dinner of Shepherd's Pie. As I opened the wine, it brought back to mind my visit with Ernesto, and all the llamas that wandered freely over the property. I recalled dining on freshly grilled meats as I watched the llamas gathered in the Mayan ball court. Such a pleasant memory.

Now for a little technical data for the wine geeks. This wine is made from 100% Malbec, grown at an elevation of 3215 feet, and the average age of the vines is about 12 years. It spent about a year in oak, mostly second-use French oak, with a small portion of American oak. About 3200 cases of this wine were produced and it only has an alcohol content of 14%. But most importantly, it is a delicious, excellent value wine.

With a dark purple color, the flavors of the wine burst into your mouth, a pleasant blend of ripe plum, dark cherry, intense spice and bits of mocha. The tannins are moderate, there is good acidity, and the finish is long and satisfying. It went very well with the Shepherd's Pie, and would go well with burgers and steaks, or even a hearty pasta dish. This is a wine of character, setting it apart from many other wines at this price point. I really enjoyed this wine and definitely recommend it.

I was not alone in my thoughts about this wine, as a few others who drank this with me had a similar reaction, though without the llama flashbacks. So my feelings about this wine were not merely colored by my prior experiences in Argentina. The memories appear to be only a pleasant side effect of this delicious wine.

Authors, Alcohol & Accolades: Volume 2

2011-12-27T04:00:00.035-05:00

"Man being reasonable must get drunk; The best of life is but intoxication; Glory, the grape, love, gold - in these are sunk - The hopes of all men and of every nation”
--Lord Byron

I am back with another volume in my new series, Authors, Alcohol & Accolades. Volume 1 showcased four of my favorite authors, and I have returned to highlight four more, and to delve into their drinks of choice. I have found this to provide a fascinating glimpse into the life of the writers I enjoy, and hope you like the interviews as well. You can look forward to further volumes in this series too.

Brad Beaulieu (Twitter @bbeaulieu)
Brad's debut fantasy novel is The Winds of Khalakovo, the first book in the The Lays of Anuskaya trilogy. It possesses a more unique Russian flair to its setting, as well as an intriguing combination of political intrigue, action-adventure and magical feats. Don't expect a breezy, easy read but savor its more literary bent, taking the time the enjoy its rich language and detail. A dedicated reader is going to be very satiated, and look forward to the next novel in this trilogy, like I am.

"Strangely enough, I wasn't much of a drinker in my twenties. It wasn't until my thirties, when I started to cook more, that I developed more of a taste for it, wine especially. I've tried all sorts of alcohols, largely just to explore something new—to see what all the fuss is about, as it were—but sometimes to cook with them. In beer, my current favorites are Trappist ales, especially Chimay Blue. In fact, I have some in my fridge now, waiting for me to make a new batch of beer-cheese soup. I also quite enjoy Scottish whiskey. I recently made a pilgrimage with some friends to Lady Gregory's in Chicago and tried a bit of Laphroaig Caideras, which was incredible. Hands down, though, my favorite alcohol is Pinot Noir. I love the complexity of a good Pinot, but I also like that a bit of the sweetness remains. My favorites are those that are fruit forward with a good amount of spice, plus some oakiness. My favorite winery is the Sanford Winery in Santa Barbara County, which got a bit of a cameo in the movie Sideways."

Jon Merz (Twitter: @jonfmerz)
A local author, Jon is relatively prolific, his stories ranging across genres including horror, fantasy, science fiction, espionage and more. His riveting Lawson Vampire series are supernatural-espionage tales, kind of like James Bond meets True Blood. He has created an honorable hero, a fascinating mythology, formidable villains, and lots of twists and turns. With several Lawson stories published each year, there is much to look forward to, as well as a future TV series! Highly recommended. Check out his other novels too, like Parallax, Prey, and Vicarious or his short story collections like This Time of Night. And Jon, in collaboration with Joseph Nassise, just released The Cerberus Protocol, the first in the new fantasy-thriller HELLstalker series. I have not read it yet but will do so soon.

"My single favorite drink is Bombay Sapphire and tonic with three wedges of lime. The delicate flavoring of juniper in Bombay Sapphire blends remarkably well the lime. I'll pour a stiff measure slowly over ice, let it chill for about twenty seconds and then add the tonic water, stir, and then top it off with the lime wedges. This has been my drink of choice since college, through the military, and my time handling private security protection work - up to the present when I enjoy toasting a new publishing deal or sales milestones."

Kevin Hearne (Twitter: @kevinhearne)
One of the most enjoyable series I have read this past year is Kevin's Iron Druid Chronicles, currently consisting of three books, Hounded, Hexed and Hammered. It is an urban fantasy, a mix of druids, vampires, werewolves, gods of various pantheons, witches and much more. All three books are compelling and easy reads, and you will find it very difficult to put them down. I read all three of them within a week as I was captivated by their charms. A fascinating collection of characters, lots of exciting action, and a keen wit combine to make these books an excellent read, and all get a strong recommendation. The next book in the series, Tricked, is due out in April 2012.

"My favorite drink these days is a blend of brews that we in the Southwest call a Snakebite. Some people, however, call this drink a Black Velvet. Take your favorite hard cider—Strongbow or Woodchuck is best—and fill your pint glass halfway with that. Then pour some Guinness on top of that over the bottom of a spoon. You get a beautiful black and gold drink that mixes and changes as you go; dark and woody at first, light and sweet at the end. Serve with fish and chips from Rula Bula (or your favorite pub that knows what they're doing in the kitchen) and you're in a gastronomic holy land."

Mark Lawrence (Twitter: @Mark_Lawrence)
Mark's debut fantasy novel, Prince of Thorns, the first book of a planned trilogy, was a superb read, the riveting tale of an amoral protagonist, a fascinating anti-hero who is ruthless in the attainment of his goals. The tale is violent and not for the faint of heart, but that grittiness is also one of its assets. This is one of the best fantasy debuts I have read in quite some time. I eagerly await the sequel, to continue the tale of Jorg Ancrath, the Prince of Thorns, and urge everyone to check it out.

"How something tastes is in some significant degree a function of how you come to be putting it in your mouth. In many ways it's not dissimilar to the way in which we react to a novel. If it comes with recommendations from the right quarters, if it is sold as a work of genius, something a only connoisseur will appreciate the finest points of, with great packaging that tells a compelling back story... well we're more likely to see the good in it. London Pride is the flagship ale of the Fuller's Brewery, a company with 165 years of brewing experience, produced on a site where beer has been made for nearly four centuries. It is a mahogany bitter, a smooth and astonishingly complex beer with a distinctive malty base complemented by a rich balance of well-developed hop flavours from the Target, Challenger and Northdown varieties. Years back I whipped a bottle at random off the supermarket shelf and drunk it down without expectation. I realised I was pouring something rather special down my gullet and paused to read that 'astonishing/complex/distinctive/mahogany' verbiage off the label. London Pride is one of those rare products that makes you sit up and take notice without requiring the mood music to be right. The kind of thing we'd all like to achieve whether brewing beer (something I do badly) or writing a book (something I've had more success with). Try it. Enjoy."

Shizuoka Green Tea: A Healthy, Delicious Choice

2011-12-26T04:00:00.023-05:00

"You don't need to be a tea master to make good tea."

It seems that you once could only get green tea at Asian restaurants, but now, many other restaurants carry it as well. The health benefits of green tea have become more widely known, plus it simply tastes good. Recently, I attended a green tea ("ryokucha" in Japanese) seminar at the Itadaki restaurant in Boston, which was put on by some very nice people from the Shizuoka Prefecture. I previously discussed the Shizuoka sake tasting, and want to continue, detailing my experiences at their green tea seminar.

The Shizuoka Prefecture currently produces about 45% of Japan’s overall tea production, and they also are on the cutting edge of scientific research on the health benefits of green tea. In 2009, Shizuoka farmed approximately 19,200 hectares of tea plants and produced about 35,800 metric tons of tea. In comparison, Kagoshima prefecture, which occupies second place, has 8690 hectares and a production of 23,400 metric tons while Mie prefecture, in third place, farms 3520 hectares and produces 6510 metric tons.

Out of the over 80 cultivars that are used for tea, Yabukita is the most common, occupying 95% of the total hectares. In Japanese, "yabu" means "bamboo bush" and "kita" means "north." The name refers to when the Yabukita plant was first tested, as it was planted in an area surrounded by bamboo and one section of land in the north was apparently the best spot. Why is Yakubita so prevalent? Primarily, because the plant so easily can adjust to many different climates and soils while still producing an excellent tea.

Though tea was known in Japan prior to the 9th century, it did not rise in popularity until the 12th century when a Buddhist monk, Eisai, brought green tea seeds from China to Japan. Initially, tea was viewed more as a medicine and was primarily restricted to the nobility, but by the 16th century, tea drinking had begun to spread to the common people.

Green tea plantations in Shizuoka date back at least to 1241, when a monk named Shoichi Kokushi returned from China to his native province of Shizuoka with green tea seeds, which were then planted in this area. Tea growing became economically important in Shizuoka in the 19th century, enhanced by its climate, water quality, and proximity to major sea ports.

About 68% of the tea produced in Japan is Sencha ("roasted tea"), while Bancha occupies second place at 20%. Sencha is the first crop of the season while Bancha is a lower grade of tea made from mature leaves and stalks. A few of the other tea types include Genmaicha (bancha plus rice), Tamaryokucha (steamed and shaped) and Gyokuro (which means "jade dew," referring to the pale green color of the tea when it is in a cup.) Gyokuro is also considered the finest tea in Japan. The place where the tea is grown matters, as green tea grown in the mountains is usually softer and milder while green tea grown on the plains is often stronger.

We learned the proper way to prepare green tea, and got to sample several different types. To prepare your tea, first boil some water and then pour that boiling water into several tea cups. This will help reduce the temperature of the water as green tea generally needs a temperature lower than boiling to best highlight it. Then, place your green tea leaves in your pot, about one scoop per five cups, and pour the water from the cups back into the pot. The tea should then steep for a certain amount of time, dependent on the type of tea. The higher the quality tea, the lower temperature the water should be and the longer it should steep. For example, tea temperatures will vary from 122-212 degrees Fahrenheit and steeping time will vary from 30-150 seconds.

Besides the fine taste, why else drink green tea? Well, there have been plenty of studies indicating some very positive health effects from this emerald liquid. Some of these include reducing the possibility of dementia by improving impaired cognitive function, antioxidants to fight cancer, catechins to help reduce body fat, prevent arteriosclerosis, and reduce allergies, a reduction in diabetes and blood pressure, as well as stimulate metabolism. Almost seems like there is little it can't do, and green tea certainly should be a regular feature in your diet.

Instead of drinking green tea, you can also use it in cooking. Usually, matcha (green tea powder), is used to make everything from green tea ice cream to green tea noodles. I have enjoyed some green tea foods before, and at the seminar, the pastry chef at Itadaki made three treats for your enjoyment. The green tea cake was the best, moist and flavorful, though I also enjoyed the green tea marshmallow star. In using green tea in your recipes, you are only bound by your own imagination.

Finally, let me broach a potential area of concern for some consumers of Japanese tea products. After the terrible tragedy, an earthquake and tsunami, which struck Japan in March 2011, the Fukushima nuclear plant sustained some significant damage. There were then concerns about radiation levels affecting local crops. Though there were some initial problems in Shizuoka with the tea crop, radiation levels have significantly dropped, and continue to decrease, and are now at safe levels. In addition, Japanese customs are helping to ensure that no products leave their shores which pose a danger to consumers. So, there is no reason to avoid Japanese tea products.

Raise a cup of green tea, enjoy its flavor and reap the health benefits.

Merry Xmas & Happy Holidays

2011-12-25T02:00:00.001-05:00

Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays to my family, friends and all of my readers!

May the glad tidings of this holiday season shine on you, your family and friends. May your celebrations be joyous and overflowing with great people, excellent conversation, fun times, delicious food and fine drink. May the gifts you give to others be well appreciated and bring joy to the recipients. May you thoroughly enjoy whichever holiday you celebrate at this season.

This is one of my favorite times of year as I love sharing the holidays with my family and friends, enjoying their company as we eat and drink to celebrate the season. It should be a joyous occasion, reveling in all of our blessings, for no matter what ills there may be, there still is much to appreciate. That appreciation deserves recognition and sharing, and not only during the holidays.

It is also a time for giving, for sharing with those less fortunate than us. Please donate as much as you can to your favorite charities, whether you give money, time or goods.

Make sure you have a safe holiday as well. Please don't drink and drive, and drive safely and cautiously. We hope that everyone will remain around to celebrate the New Year as well as the rest of 2012.

Drink and dine with passion this holiday, as well as every day of the year! Passion is what gives our lives meaning, what drives us toward excellence. A life devoid of passion is empty and shallow, and desperately needs change. Seek out whatever makes you passionate, and revel in its delights.

2011: Favorite Sake Items

2011-12-23T04:00:00.345-05:00

What were some of my favorite Sake items of the past year?

Let me continue the lists of my best recommendations and favorites of the past year, 2011. I have already posted a list of my Favorite Restaurants, Favorite Food-Related Items, and Favorite Wine, Spirit & Drink Related Items. This is my final list, my Favorite Sake Items of the past year. This is certainly not a complete list but it is more a sampling of memorable matters I have experienced and posted about over the past year.

This is also a purely subjective list, based on my own preferences, and makes no claims about being the "best" of anything. But all of the items here have earned my strong recommendations and I hope you will enjoy them as well. For more sake related items, you can just search my blog posts for the past year.

Sake continues to maintain a prominent role on my blog. My passion for Sake has only grown and I continue to promote it to others, to spread the word about this fascinating beverage. I want to destroy the stereotypes about Sake and shine a light on the truth, to show its diversity and complexity. I want more and more people to taste it, and find joy in its flavors.

Sake Interview: Early this year, I was interviewed by the Boston Globe about Sake, a full page article which obviously pleased me very much. It provided exposure to myself, but also Sake in general, hopefully intriguing some people to give it a try. To any other newspaper, magazine or media, I am available for interviews or articles concerning Sake, so please just email me if you are interested in such.

Sake Tastings & Classes: I have presided over a number of Sake Tastings, Meals & Classes this past year, helping to promote this worthy beverage. This included a Sake brunch at AKA Bistro, a Sake & Italian Dinner at Prezza, Chilling with Sake classes at the Boston Wine School, Sake & Thai Dinner at Ronnarong, and tastings for New England Home Magazine & Quidley and Company Fine Art Gallery. The response from the attendees at these events has been very positive, and many have been surprised by the diversity of Sake, often finding styles they enjoyed. Sparkling Sake has been a huge hit at these events, even by those who claimed they generally disliked Sake. You can look forward to more tastings, dinners and classes in 2012.

Sake Exports: After a rough year in 2009 for sake exports, they have roared back in 2010. Statistics showed that from January to November 2010, Japan exports hit a record high of 12,223 kiloliters of sake, more than the previous one-year record of 12,151 in 2008. In 2010, the U.S. claimed about 25% of all Japanese sake exports.Much of this success is due to "steady distribution and to a recovery in the U.S., the world's top importer." Kanpai!

Sad Sake News: On March 11, 2001, Japan was devastated by an earthquake and tsunami, which primarily affected the Tohoku region. This was a tragedy in many respects, with a terrible loss of life and my sympathies go out to all those affected. More than half of the Tohoku region’s 145 sake producers were adversely affected by the disaster, and a few of the sake breweries were completely destroyed. Fortunately, many of them are showing positive signs of a comeback so hopefully 2012 will be a far better year for them. So please give your support to the Tohoku breweries.

Favorite Japanese Sake: The stand out this year for me was the Kirin Daiginjo Hizoshu, which was aged for five years under very low temperatures. This is unlike any aged sake I have ever had before, and I would not have known that is was aged unless someone told me. It was an incredibly complex and intriguing Daiginjo, clean, smooth and mellow with plenty of subtle and captivating flavors. It was such a surprise, and a sake I would highly recommend to all sake lovers.

Runner-Up Sake: For Thanksgiving, I opened the Tedorigawa "Silver Mountain" Yamahai Junmai, and found it to pair nicely with my dinner, from the roast turkey to the wild boar roast. It had some of that earthiness that I like, and would probably have gone well with a variety of other foods too, especially due to its higher acidity and umami. Forget Pinot Noir next Thanksgiving and opt for Sake.

Favorite Domestic Sake: This year, I visited the SakeOne Brewery in Forest Grove, Oregon, and tasted through their portfolio. Their Nama Organic Junmai, on draft, most impressed me with its enticing nose of fresh fruit. On the palate, it was crisp and lively with plenty of delicious apple, pear and hints of tropical fruit. It is well worth stopping by the brewery and quaffing a glass of this unpasteurized Sake.

Most Unusual Sake: Sake is generally made with yellow koji-kin while black koji-kin is used for the production of awamori. Black koji-kin can develop strong citric acid which might destroy the delicate flavors of sake. But the Kuro Kabuto Junmai Daiginjo is a sake made from black koji-kin, and it is a success, a compelling and delicious sake. It possesses some lush orange flavor as well as tart apple and melon, and a bit of sweetness that is balanced by its acidity. Smooth and easy drinking, it will appeal to any Sake lover seeking something a bit different.

First Organic Japanese Sake: Though you might have seen organic Sake before, the rice for those Sakes was grown in the U.S. It is very difficult to grow organic rice in Japan, but it has been done and the first organic sake using such rice is now on the market, the Chikurin Karoyaka Junmai Ginjo. This is an amazing Sake, with plenty of complexity and a multitude of flavor layers. It is is an artisan Sake, and it is reflected in its high quality.

Consumer Friendly Sake: As Sake can be very intimidating to the average person, efforts to make Sake bottles more consumer friendly can help. Green River Sake Company, a newcomer to Massachusetts, is a Japanese brewery which has created a line of Sakes for the U.S. market where the labels are simple, and almost completely in English except for the large kanji on the front label. The labels lack any technical details with the intent of just describing the flavor profile of the Sake. Plus, and most importantly, the Sakes tasted very good.

Favorite Domestic Sake Brewery: In September, I was able to tour the SakeOne Brewery in Oregon and I was impressed with the facility. I also tasted through their portfolio and found many excellent value Sakes, which would be a great way to introduce newcomers to Sake. Because of their low price, newcomers would be more likely to take a chance and pick up a bottle. Their infused Sakes would also be very versatile for making cocktails. If you visit the Portland area, you should take the time to visit this brewery.

Favorite Portland Sake Spots: Portland, Oregon is a hot spot for sake lovers, with an abundance of izakayas and sake bars. While in Portland, I visited two, Miho Izakaya and Zilla Sake House, and both impressed. Miho had plenty of delicious food to accompany your sake, while Zilla had an incredible sake list and killer sushi. Both spots get my recommendation and I look forward to checking out more izakayas next summer in Portland.

Sake Charity Event: This past year, Wine Blogging Wednesday #72 was all about Helping Japan after the tragic earthquake and tsunami by trying to get wine bloggers to drink and review some sake. Though it did not get as much participation as hoped, those that did participate were eager and passionate about the endeavor. Hopefully, in 2012, more bloggers will taste and discuss Sake on their blogs.

Favorite Sake & Food Pairing: The Sake and Italian Dinner at Prezza was amazing, especially due to the killer food prepared by Chef Anthony Caturano. Rabbit Parmigiano, Mushroom Risotto, Wood Grilled Pork Chop, Fig Turnover. I paired these dishes with four different dishes, showing the attendees the versatility of Sake with Italian cuisine, and I convinced them that such a pairing could work. It is all about the umami.

Favorite Local Stores for Sake: In the Boston+ area, finding good Sake can be difficult, but the situation has improved since last year. More wine stores are stocking at least a little Sake, which pleases me immensely. Here are a few local wine stores which carry good Sakes and deserve your support: Urban Grape (with over 30 Sakes), Lower Falls Wine Co., Ball Square Fine Wines & Liquors, Wine Connextion (excellent discount prices), Reliable Market, and Beacon Hill Wine & Gourmet.

New York City Stores For Sake: Besides Sakaya, an all-Sake store, and Astor Wine & Spirits, which has a very good Sake selection, you should also check out Ambassador Wine & Spirits. With about 100 different Sakes, kept in a temperature controlled room, Sake lovers should enjoy perusing all of the selections, from small 300ml bottles to large 1.8 liter bottles. In addition, they have a large selection of Shochu. It is well worth checking out this shop.

Favorite Sake News Article: Though the article is not long, Sake Pairings, in the Chicago Tribune, promotes pairing Sake with non-Japanese cuisine, something I too strongly advocate. Sake Evangelist John Gauntner is quoted: "People think that with sake, you have to eat Japanese, you have to be authentic but they need to get over that and think about just pairing sake with food in general." He also stated: "...the key to pairing sake is an open mind and a willingness to experiment." That is why I like exposing people to sake with what might be considered offbeat pairings, from mushroom risotto to pizza. I want them to see the myriad of possibilities of sake with food.

My Favorite Sake Post: In a similar vein, my favorite Sake post of all those I have written this year is Sake, Amino Acids & Food. The article goes into some of the science behind Sake, especially how it interacts with food. Umami, that fifth taste which is akin to savoriness, plays a very important role, helping to make Sake an excellent pairing for many different types of dishes. I am currently working on an expanded version of this article, going into more detail. Look forward to it in 2012.

Favorite Sake Legend: If you are a Sake lover, then I am sure you would very much like to meet some red-haired Shojo, water spirits whose supernatural powers often seem to revolve around Sake. From a never ending Sake pot to a Sake that cures all disease and gives long life, what is there not to like? Tanuki just cannot compete with Shojo.

Sake Friends: I have met a number of other Sake lovers on Twitter, and this year got to meet three of them in person, all in Portland, Oregon. It was a great pleasure to meet them, chat and share some excellent chilled Sake. Gordon, Dewey and Marcus all made me feel very welcome and I look forward to seeing them again next August, when I return to Portland. They are all great guys and well worth following on Twitter.

Wine Blogger's Conference 2012: Finally, the WBC for 2012 will be held in Portland, Oregon. I really hope that they will hold a breakout session on Sake, to educate and entertain the attendees. It would be a great location with the SakeOne Brewery nearby, and so many izakayas and other sake destinations in Portland. And when I return to Portland, I hope to visit some more of the excellent sake bars, and hang out again with my sake friends there. 2012 is going to be a great year.

What were some of your favorite Sake items this year?

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

2011-12-22T04:00:00.018-05:00

I am back again with a new edition of Thursday Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I briefly highlight some interesting wine and food items that I have encountered recently.
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1) Executive Chef Brian Poe, of Poe’s Kitchen at the Rattlesnake, is debuting nine new savory snacks as well as a “Midnight Special” each evening for late night dining. Designed with a super-spicy kick, this Special will change nightly.

Chips & Dip ($8)
Deep fried prosciutto, turkey and chicken skins, candied pork belly, homemade chive garlic and onion seasoned Yukon gold chips, 5 Spoke Creamery Chive Fondue
Chipotle Wings ($9)
Smoked jalapeno rubbed, poblano and blue cheese sauce
Grilled Bacon, Steak & Cheese Bites ($10)
Bacon wrapped Newport steak, white cheddar, homemade jalapeno A1
Albondigas ($8)
Three signature meatballs in chipotle broth
Grilled Pizza ($13)
Artichoke and lime alfredo, mozzarella, pepperoni, seasonal mushrooms, chervil
Harvey WineBurger ($11)
Flat patty steamed on the grilled with red wine, caramelized chile spike onions, Texas toast, American cheese, chive and jalapeno mayo
Breakfast Quesadilla ($8)
Cilantro butter fried egg, ham, Velveeta, Swiss and American cheese, hash browns, salsa, sour cream, HellGrande sauce
Sobriety Fries ($6)
Cilantro curried crushed red pepper fries, sriracha, ketchup, fresh squeezed lime
Poe Nachos ($12.75)
Salsa, signature cheese blend, refried beans, lettuce
(available plain, chicken or steak)

WHEN: Sunday – Wednesday: 10:00pm – 1:30am; Thursday – Saturday: 11:30pm – 1:30am

2) The Mohegan Sun WineFest 2012 will be held from Friday, January 27 to Sunday, January 29, 2012 at the Mohegan Sun Casino. This is a large and diverse wine tasting event and one I highly recommend. I attended the event last year and it was well run, with plenty of excellent wines and foods. Plus, you get the chance to meet some culinary celebrities.

The events include:

Celebrity Chef Dine Around
On Saturday evening, January 28th, Celebrity Chef Dine Around will feature some of the most prominent names in the industry. Food and wine enthusiasts will be served signature dishes by celebrity chefs, paired with wines from the nation’s top winemakers from 8pm-11pm in the Uncas Ballroom. The evening also includes a champagne reception presented by Möet & Chandon to benefit Channel 3 Kids Camp. Scott Haney and other Channel 3 personalities will also be in attendance in support of the camp. Signature dishes will be served by a variety of celebrity chefs and winemakers themselves including Bobby Flay, Ben Ford, Todd English, Jasper White, Govind Armstrong, Donatella Arpaia, Kate MacMurray, Kim Canteenwalla, Betty Fraser, Michael Ginor, Ihsan Gurdal, Andy Husbands, Robert Irvine, Emily Luchetti, Elizabeth Falkner, Mary Ann Esposito, Marc Forgione, Larry Forgione, Bryan Forgione, Daisy Martinez, Douglas Rodriguez, Jason Santos and Jacques Torres.
Tickets for this culinary extravaganza are $175.00 per person.

Elite Cru Tasting
Wine lovers can get up-close-and-personal with some of the “best of the best” vintages from all over the world at the Elite Cru Tasting from 3pm-5pm on Saturday, January 28th in The Cabaret Theatre. This event, in its third year, will offer select vintages from premium wineries and producers. The tasting will also feature oysters, shrimp and gourmet cheeses with guests having the chance to talk one-on-one with winemakers for the duration of the affair. Tickets for this one-of-a-kind opportunity are $200.00 per person which includes admission to the Saturday Grand Tasting and a portion of the proceeds will benefit the Channel 3 Kids Camp.

Bourbon Tasting
Sun WineFest is excited to bring back its Bourbon Tasting presented by Beam Global Spirits & Wine from 6pm-9pm at Leffingwells Martini Bar on Friday, January 27th. The 3-hour tasting will give inquiring minds an opportunity to mingle and enjoy the insight of Bernie Lubbers, Whiskey Professor for Beam Global Spirits and Wine and author of Bourbon Whiskey Our Native Spirit. Bernie was named “Global Whiskey Ambassador of the Year, 2009” by Whisky Magazine at Whisky Live! in London. Taste the artisan attention of 100′s of years of tradition through Plan B’s unique bourbon inspired menu paired with a variety of fine bourbons including Maker’s Mark, Booker’s, Knob Creek and Jim Beam. Savor them straight or enlist the help of Plan B’s mixologists to create a crafted bourbon cocktail.

Dedicated space will also be provided for a premium cigar sampling hosted by AVO Cigars—Cigars in Perfect Harmony. AVO Cigars bear the name of famed pianist and legendary cigar connoisseur Avo Uvezian. After a successful career as a Jazz pianist Avo Uvezian toured the Caribbean in search of the finest tobaccos and the best factory for making his cigars. In 1982 he found both in the Dominican Republic. Today AVO Cigars are enjoyed by aficionados all over the world and Avo’s lifelong quest for perfect harmony has brought him great success in not one, but two careers – music and premium cigars. Tickets are $90.00 per person with a portion of the proceeds to benefit the Channel 3 Kids Camp.

Bubbles & Bon Bons
Topping off Sun WineFest’s blockbuster weekend is the popular Bubbles & Bon Bons event in The Cabaret Theatre from 6pm-9pm on Sunday, January 29th. Guests will sample high-end champagnes, chocolates and cheeses inside The Cabaret Theatre featuring Jacques Torres, one of the most beloved and highly regarded pastry chefs and chocolatiers in the world. Jacques will be joined by Emily Luchetti, recognized around the world for her award-winning sweet creations and the author of five cookbooks, Elizabeth Falkner, owner and Chef of two Michelin recommended restaurants in San Francisco and Executive Pastry Chef Lynn Mansel from Mohegan Sun. This event will appeal to all of your senses through decadent desserts, luxurious champagne, delightful entertainment and an opportunity to mingle and party with fantastic chefs in an intimate setting – you won’t want to miss how we bring the Sun WineFest 2012 to a close! Tickets for this sumptuous event are $95.00 per person.

WineFest Grape Stomp
Things will get a little messy as teams try to out-run, jump and stomp the competition during the 3rd Annual Mohegan Sun WineFest Grape Stomp to benefit the American Diabetes Association. The event will begin on January 28th at 4:15pm on the main stage in the Uncas Ballroom during the Grand Tasting. Sixteen teams will bare their feet and have three minutes to stomp as much grape juice as they can out of a vat of grapes. The team application for entry can be found at mohegansun.com/grape-stomp.

First place will win $1,500, an overnight stay at Mohegan Sun and a complimentary dinner for two at Todd English’s Tuscany. Second place will take home $1,000 and third will receive $500.00. The top three teams will also win well-deserved pedicures from Elemis Spa. The deadline to enter the competition is January 5, 2012.

Oyster Open
Sun WineFest brings back the fan-favorite 8th Annual Mohegan Sun Oyster Open presented by Bud Light Lime on January 29th at 4:15pm. Professional shuckers from the best restaurants, raw bars and shellfish and seafood companies on the Eastern Seaboard will compete for a first place prize of $3,500 cash and the championship belt.

Second and third place winners will receive trophy plaques and will take home $1,000 and $500.00, respectively. To enter, potential participants can download the application at mohegansun.com/oyster-open. The deadline for Oyster Open registration is January 4, 2012.

Grand Tasting:
The weekend’s main event, the Grand Tasting takes place from 12pm-5pm on Saturday, January 28th and Sunday, January 29th in the Convention Center at Mohegan Sun. Over 1,000 wines, spirits and beers will be on-hand for tasting as well as sample dishes from some of the area’s finest restaurants. There will be a nominal charge for the sampling of signature dishes – a portion of the proceeds benefits Channel 3 Kids Camp. Tickets for this weekend attraction are $70.00 for a one-day pass and $120.00 for a weekend pass.

Tickets for the Grand Tasting, Elite Cru Tasting, Celebrity Chef Dine Around, Bourbon Tasting and Bubbles & Bon Bons may be purchased online at ticketmaster.com, sunwinefest.com, over the phone at 1-800-745-3000 or in person at Mohegan Sun’s Box Office.

Authors, Alcohol & Accolades: Volume 1

2011-12-21T04:00:00.005-05:00

“Always do sober what you said you'd do drunk. That will teach you to keep your mouth shut.”
--Ernest Hemingway

From Ernest Hemingway to F. Scott Fitzgerald, writers have often been fond of alcohol. I write and am no different in my love for alcohol, though my writing quality, including my short stories, is certainly not on par with men such as those. I guess significant alcohol consumption does not always transform into greatness. Besides writing, I also derive great enjoyment from reading the works of others and voraciously devour many a book. Above, you can see a small portion of my library, which now occupies two rooms in my home. Thanks to the iPad though, I can purchase ebooks and save lots of room in my house.

Because of my love for books and alcohol, I devised an idea to combine these two interests in a new series I call Authors, Alcohol & Accolades. In essence, I interview numerous authors, asking them to tell me their favorite wine, beer or alcohol. They say you can judge a person by what he eats and drinks, so this might give you a better insight into these authors. In addition, at least for now, the only authors that I will present will be those whose books I have read and enjoyed. These will be all authors that I recommend, who have penned compelling books which I am sure others will enjoy too.

So let's see what some of my favorite writers like to drink.

Jonathan Maberry (Twitter @JonathanMaberry)
Jonathan is relatively prolific and diverse, from writing Young Adult zombie novels to penning Marvel Comics. He is also very successful, being a New York Times bestselling author and receiving numerous acclaims for his work. I am a huge fan, finding his work to be very well written and usually completely riveting. His latest novel, Dead of Night, is a compelling zombie tale, one of the best of that genre I have read. His Joe Ledger series is action adventure at its peak, kind of James Bond meets the X-Files, and I eagerly await the fourth novel in that series. He has also written several horror-related non-fiction works which are also very interesting. Overall, I cannot recommend Jonathan's books enough.

Jonathan's preferences: "I’ve always been a whiskey guy. We’re Scottish, and I have uncles who are Scotch brokers. However I like cold whiskey and if I pour single malt over ice a thousand years’ worth of Highland ancestors will rise from their graves to kick my ass. That’s why I started drinking bourbon. Nobody starts a knife fight if you pour Knob Creek or Heaven Hill over ice. If all I can get is beer, then I love a cold schooner of Yuengling. It’s a fine Pennsylvania beer from the nation’s oldest brewery, and it’s as satisfying in the dead of winter as it is on at a barbecue on a sweltering summer afternoon."

Bernard J. Schaffer (Twitter: @ApiarySociety)
I first encountered Bernard's short story collection, Women & Other Monsters, and his twisted horror stories appealed to me, especially Cold Comforts, a chilling tale sure to get under your skin. That was followed up with his novel Whitechapel: The Final Stand of Sherlock Holmes, which pits Jack the Ripper against the famous detective in a gruesome and fascinating tale. Most recently, he has been the editor of Resistance Front, a collection of short stories from various authors, from professionals to newcomers, where all profits go to the National Center for Missing and Exploited Children. A great book, for a great cause, and for only 99 cents, it is also a steal. Please seek out all three of these books.

Bernard's preferences: "My drink of choice is beer. There is nothing better than sitting in a dark tavern drinking something cold from a tankard that is so big it takes two hands to lift. There is a more pure craftsmanship to beer, in that anyone can make it. You don't need a vineyard in Italy of rare grapes, you don't need aged oak caskets of bourbon inherited from the Duke of Wales. You just need a little ingenuity. A little effort. I will drink any beer, regardless of how strange it sounds. I've had pumpkin beer, strawberry beer, ginger beer, and every shade of light or dark. At present, I prefer Modello and Tsing-Tao. Last year it was Smithwicks (pronounced Schmiddicks). Sometimes, there is nothing better than a good old Miller Light, because that is what they serve at Citizen Bank Park, and it reminds me of being there."

Joseph Nagle (Twitter: @SterlingNovels)
In the tradition of Dan Brown and Robert Ludlum, Joseph has written two exciting novels in his Michael Sterling series, The Hand of Christ and The History Thief: Ten Days Lost. Both novels are packed with action and intrigue, a rollercoaster ride of adventure and espionage. The details appear well researched and there are interesting historical elements fueling the plots. If you want an adrenaline rush of excitement, check out both these books.

Joseph's preferences: "...my tastes are for inexpensive, oaky chardonnays. But truth be told, my favorite drink is said chardonnay with a splash of grey goose...call me crazy, but that's just me. I love the crisp cold of the oaky bite as it is followed by the clear burn of the vodka - a wonderful drink at the end of a hot, exhausting day."

Brett Talley (Twitter: @BrettjTalley) If you enjoy Lovecraftian stories about the Cthulhu Mythos, then Brett's first novel, That Which Should Not Be, should be on your reading list. Well written and suspenseful, this book would have made Lovecraft proud, delivering a carefully crafted horror story with the looming specter of Cthulhu. I have read tons of other Lovecraftian stories, and this is definitely one of the better ones. I look forward to Brett's future novels.

Brett's Preferences: "What's your favorite alcohol? Difficult question, and one that could be answered in a hundred different ways. None of them wrong. All equally defensible. But when I think of alcohol, I think of people. The bacchanalia is not a party for one, after all. Favorite alcohol? Bourbon. Makers Mark, if I am being specific. It permeates my past, present, and future. It was with me on hot, muggy college afternoons in the fall when football was in the air in Tuscaloosa, a pretty girl on my arm and bourbon and Coke on my lips. In sugary sweet Mint Juleps with lifelong friends at a Kentucky racetrack where the horses still run. On golf courses and sandy white beaches. At weddings, and yes, after funerals. It is the flavor of my adult life, the thread that runs through a hundred different gatherings, a thousand smiles, unending laughter. So it will continue until the day I die. And then, God willing, my friends will raise one last glass to me."
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You can also read the additional volumes in this series:

Volume Two
Volume Three
Volume Four

2011: Favorite Food-Related Items

2011-12-20T04:00:00.007-05:00

What were some of my favorite food-related items of the past year?

Let me continue the lists of my best recommendations and favorites of the past year, 2011. Last week, I provided a list of my Favorite Restaurants of 2011 and now I want to address my favorites for other Food-Related Items, from markets to books, from ingredients to bakeries. This is certainly not a complete list but it is more a sampling of memorable matters I have experienced and posted about over the past year.

This is also a purely subjective list, based on my own preferences, and makes no claims about being the "best" of anything. But all of the items here have earned my strong recommendations and I hope you will enjoy them as well. For more food-related items, you can just search my blog posts for the past year.

Favorite New Food Magazine: Chef David Chang's Milk Bar and Ssäm Bar made my list of Favorite Restaurants of 2011, and now his new magazine, Lucky Peach, makes one of my lists too. A quarterly magazine devoted to food, it is eclectic and irreverent, with fascinating articles, essays, recipes, and more. I eagerly devoured the first issue, and then again, the second issue, which was recently released. If you love compelling food writing, then pick up Lucky Peach.

Favorite Meat Cookbook: For carnivore's everywhere, check out The Butcher's Guide to Well Raised Meat by Joshua & Jessica Applestone and Alexandra Zissu. The book is part memoir, history, cookbook, and reference guide, with a mission of promoting local, sustainable meat. You will learn much about the art of butchery, proper cooking techniques, the differences of heritage animals, uses for offal, how to shop, and plenty more. A fascinating reference book, this earns my hearty recommendation.

Favorite Dessert Cookbook: Though released in September 2010, I didn't get a copy of this book until earlier this year. Flour, by local chef Joanne Chang, is an excellent choice for anyone who wants to do some baking. It begins with very useful introductory information about the basics of baking which could benefit anyone, before leading into a diverse variety of recipes from the famed Flour Bakery. I am sure you will find plenty of appealing recipes, for both sweet and savory treats. I highly recommend this book to anyone who intends to do some baking or loves desserts.

Favorite Ethnic Cookbook: Both encyclopedia and cookbook, Flavors of Malaysia by Chef Susheela Raghavan is a comprehensive and intriguing look at Malaysian cuisine. Besides all of the recipes, there is a lengthy history and reference section. There is even a section on how to give a Malaysian flair to other recipes. It is well written, interesting and very informative, one of the best ethnic cookbooks I have seen in a long time and I highly recommend it.

Favorite Food & Travel Book: If you are traveling to Tokyo, or just enjoy Japanese cuisine, then you should read Food Sake Tokyo by Yukari Sakamoto. You'll learn Japanese terminology, sushi etiquette, deciphering a Japanese menu, and much more. And if you are going to Tokyo, you will find plenty of intriguing recommendations for restaurants, food markets, and more. A fascinating book.

Favorite Japanese Cookbook: If you want to learn how to prepare Japanese cuisine, then you will enjoy the lessons found within My Japanese Table by Debra Samuels. There is lots of basic information as well as numerous recipes, from sushi to desserts. There is even a chapter on creating Bento boxes, one of Debra's passions. It is an aesthetically pleasing book too, with plenty of interesting recipes, and home cooks should definitely check it out.

Food Issue of the Year: One of the most important, and sometimes controversial, food issues I addressed this year was seafood sustainability. From the Legal Sea Foods blacklisted dinner to concerns about bycatch of sea mammals, I have covered a number of local seafood issues, delving behind the science and rhetoric. The importance of this matter cannot be underestimated, but it is sometimes difficult to get to the truth behind the issues. I am sure the issue will retain its prominence on my blog next year as well. To read all of my posts on this topic, check out the sustainability tag.

Favorite Food Trade Event: The International Boston Seafood Show (IBSS) is a massive trade event, a showcase for purveyors of seafood, as well as related vendors. You'll find tons of free seafood samples and learn much, from sustainability to cooking. It is an engaging event and I wrote several posts about the show, including: Ten Things You Should Know, Five More Things You Should Know, The Key to Sustainability and Food of Interest. I was also quite pleased that I won iPura's First Annual Tweet & Blogfest for my coverage of the show. I am looking forward to defending my title, which I call the Fish Head Whisperer, at the IBSS next year too and highly recommend all food bloggers attend as well. I welcome the competition.

Favorite Cheese: I was fortunate to taste a new cheese coming to the U.S., the Gligora Dairy Paški Sir, a Croatian cheese made from ewe's milk. It smells of grass and herbs and the taste is complex, with a tasty melange of herbal flavors, a mild creaminess and hints of salt. The cheese has a cool story behind it as well, and any cheese lover should try to find this new and exciting cheese.

Favorite Frozen Food: Though it may not be as good as fresh made, sometimes frozen foods actually deliver well on flavor. Maristella's Fine Foods Seafood Pot Pies were delicious, and someone might not even realize they were frozen. With intriguing flavor combinations like Lobster with Saffron Scented Creamed Corn and Wild Alaskan Salmon with Horseradish & Chipotle, the pastry was flaky and contained plenty of seafood. If you need a quick fix for dinner, give these a try.

Favorite Use of Fruit: While dining at Miho Izakaya, in Portland, Oregon, one of the dishes was Wasabi Watermelon, and though simple, it was impressive. Watermelon cubes, soaked in a wasabi sauce, and sprinkled with black sesame seeds. The juicy watermelon had a slight spicy kick which paired well to the sweetness of the fruit. Can't wait to make this next summer.

Favorite Chocolate: I feel that salty foods and chocolate make a great pairing, which is one of the reasons I enjoy bacon & chocolate. While in Portland, Oregon, I found the Xocolatl de David Chocolate Bar with Parmigiano Reggiano, and this was an excellent combination, the saltiness of the cheeses working well with the sweet chocolate. I can easily see other similar cheeses working well too with chocolate.

Favorite Local Ice Cream: Alcohol in ice cream does not always work out, but there are exceptions. J.P. Licks makes a Wild Turkey Bourbon Ice Cream, a smooth and creamy frozen treat with just enough bourbon flavor to delight. Let your children enjoy vanilla and chocolate while you savor this more adult dessert.

Favorite Cookies: Gluten free cookies never tasted so good. Miss Maura's Delectable Delights produces a full line of cakes, cookies and pastries, including numerous gluten free delights. The Lime in the Coconut cookie was especially tasty, and it had a very homemade feel to it. The cookies are pricey, but you do get a high quality product.

Favorite Portland Food Stops: While visiting Portland, Oregon, I found several cool food markets, bakeries, donut shops and more. For creative ice cream, check out the newly opened Salt & Straw, where I especially enjoyed their Pear With Blue Cheese ice cream. For a wide assortment of salts, artisan chocolates, wines and more, venture to The Meadow. And you can find a compilation post, discussing some excellent places to get donuts, cupcakes, and pie.

Favorite New NYC Food Market: An Italian mecca in New York City, Eataly addresses all of your needs, from cookbooks to fresh fish, from cheese to fresh pasta. You can shop for all your home cooking needs, or dine at their numerous restaurants. Where else will you find a vegetarian butcher? There is little Italian you won't find here, but because of its huge popularity, it might be easier to venture there during off hours.

Favorite Toronto Food Stops: In the Distillery District, you will find an excellent bakery, the Brick Street Bakery, as well as a superb chocolate shop, SOMA Chocolate. If you travel to Yonge Street, you will find the interesting Cookbook Store, a place to find all of your food books needs, including some Canadian books that are not available in the U.S.

What were some of your favorite food-related items this year?

Rant: Beware Vegetables!

2011-12-19T04:00:00.099-05:00

Vegans and vegetarians beware, as you might be unknowingly ingesting genetic material which could adversely affect your health. In fact, anyone eating vegetables is susceptible to this potential.

It seems that every week we are learning something new about the food we eat, either that the food is now more dangerous or more beneficial. Scientists are always studying the effect of various foods, and their results can change the way people diet. It can be hard to keep up so what food can you really trust? Well, there is a new study adding to the confusion, and Ill try to keep the science lesson to a minimum.

MicroRNAs, which have come to the forefront of scientists' attention during the last ten years, are fragments of genetic material and they contribute to gene regulation, basically helping to determine how and when genes shut on or off. These microRNAs are found in both animals, including humans, and plants. Analysis and study of these microRNAs could lead to very positive results in defeating diseases from cancer to diabetes. But there is a potential dark side as well, which is only at the infancy of comprehension.

A recent Chinese study found, by studying rice, that microRNA in plants can actually enter the human body when those plants are ingested. Despite being digested, these microRNA can still survive and travel into the human bloodstream. Tests were performed on mice using a specific microRNA called MIR618, and the results showed that increased levels of this microRNA led to elevated cholesterol levels. So, eating rice could thus increase your cholesterol through these microRNAs. If true, does that mean Japanese sake, made from rice, could also cause increased cholesterol? I really hope not.

Some plants could pass on positive microRNA but as the field is still very new, there are many unknowns. Their effect could even turn out to be so minimal that it could be ignored. But questions remain. For example, what types of microRNA can grapes, and thus wine, pass on? Should you really eat your broccoli? Are vegans and vegetarians playing Russian Roulette, not really understanding what the vegetables they ingest might do to their health?

Sipping Shizuoka Sake

2011-12-18T04:00:00.157-05:00

Come for the green tea and stay for the sake.

Recently, I attended a green tea seminar at the Itadaki restaurant in Boston, which was put on by some very nice people from the Shizuoka Prefecture, located about 110 miles southwest of Tokyo. The region was located on the Tokaido, the most important road during the Edo period (1603 to 1868), which joined Tokyo to Kyoto. One of the most well known and treasured landmarks in Shizuoka is famed Mount Fuji. Probably the most famous product of this prefecture is green tea (of which I will discuss more in an upcoming post) though they also produce sake.

After the tea seminar, I grabbed a bite to eat and then returned to the restaurant as they were going to hold a sake tasting later. I had the opportunity to taste six Shizuoka sakes, which are probably not currently available in Massachusetts, and maybe not even anywhere else in the U.S.

Sake had never been a huge product in Shizuoka though the last 30 years have seen some significant changes and improvements to their sake industry. Much of the credit goes to Denbei Kawamura, who worked for the government, and can be considered the Father of the modern sake industry in Shizuoka. Not only did he work with the sake breweries to improve the quality of their products, but he also created Shizuoka HD-1, a special sake yeast which elevated the overall quality of their sake. The region currently has about 28-35 sake breweries and most of them are relatively small operations.

In 1998, the government of Shizuoka decided they needed to grow more of their own sake rice, so they began a study on creating a different form of Yamada Nishiki, considered the greatest of all sake rices. Their research led to the development of Homare Fuji, a sake rice with shorter and sturdier stalks, giving it better protection from harsh weather, and its rice kernels also contain less proteins. Approximately 31 farmers now grow Homare Fuji, and at least 20 Shizuoka breweries now use this rice in at least some of their sake. There is even a special label (pictured above), which resembles Mount Fuji, and which can be added to the neck of certain sake bottles that meet the standards for the use of Homare Fuji. Though all six of the sakes I tasted used Homare Fuji rice, one lacked the bottle neck label, though I am unsure why.

In general, Shizuoka sake is said to be generally low in acidity, light and easy drinking. It probably would be an excellent sake of which to introduce a newcomer to sake, who might be turned off by some of the strong flavors of some sakes. One of the most famous brands from Shizuoka is the Wakatake Onikoroshi "Demon Slayer," produced by the Oomuraya Brewery. I certainly loved their sakes, both the Junmai Ginjo and Junmai Daiginjos, and they are especially good value sakes.

As the six sakes I tasted do not appear available in the U.S., there appears to be little information available on them in English except for one blog, Shizuoka Sake: The Cream of Japan. This sake blog concentrates on the sakes of the Shizuoka region and has some pertinent information on all of these sakes. Thus, for each of the six sakes, I will be linking them to the blog post which describes the sake and/or brewery, where you can find additional information.

Of these six sakes, I enjoyed them all, and each presented its own unique flavor profile, though all use the same rice. They all were either Junmai or Junmai Ginjo, and they certainly were easy drinking, a style that even newcomers to sake would embrace and established sake lovers would savor.

Senju Homarefuji Junmai Ginjo
This was my favorite of the six because of its complexity, smoothness and appealing taste. It had a bit of a floral nose with hints of fruit but on the palate the fruit was more prominent, plenty of melon, green apple and hints of citrus. It was soft, mellow and elegant with some intriguing nutty notes, especially on the finish. This is a bottle I could just sit and drink in its entirety, savoring each delightful sip.

Hatsukame Okabemaru Junmai
This is a richer and more full bodied sake than the Senju, which you would expect as it is not labeled as a Ginjo. Interestingly though, the rice has been polished down to 55%, which makes it technically qualify as a ginjo though the producer chose not to label it as such. It possess ripe melon, pear and mild pineapple flavors, and also is smooth and easy drinking. It seems less complex than the Senju as well.

Oomuraya Takenokaze Junami Ginjo
From the producer of Wakatake Onikoroshi, this sake has much of the appeal of the Onikoroshi, a smooth and supple sake. The fruit flavors are a bit restrained allowing intriguing herbal notes to take more of the center stage. Its complexity is compelling and I would highly recommend it.

Kunpai Homarefuji Tokubetsu Junmai
As some people would say, this sake is "as easy to drink as water." It is silky smooth and mild with very subtle fruit and steamed rice flavors. Very elegant and restrained. Its apparent simplicity does conceal its greater depths.

Sanwa Garyubai Junmai Ginjo
This is another sake where the herbal notes play a strong role in the taste, complementing the pear and melon fruit flavors. Though smooth and elegant, there is a bitter tinge to the finish, though not an unpleasant taste. This would be an intriguing sake to pair with food.

Doi Kaiun Hana No Ka Junmai Ginjo
This was an unusual sake, and apparently is made in a style that was previously produced 100 years ago and which was only recently resurrected. If I tasted this blind, I might think it was a wine as it presented with a strong red berry taste, and was almost sweet. It was very different from the other five sakes but as I don't know much about the style it is trying to replicate I cannot comment more. The trouble with not being able to read kanji.

If you get the chance to try some sake from the Shizuoka prefecture, I recommend that you taste them, and I bet you won't be disappointed.

2011: Favorite Restaurants

2011-12-16T04:00:00.251-05:00

What were some of my favorite restaurants of the past year?

I have already posted several of my Favorites' lists and and now I want to concentrate on my Favorite Restaurants of the past year. This is certainly not a complete list but it is more a sampling of memorable matters I have experienced and/or posted about over the past year. Some of the winners are the same as last year, and if so, I will provide a link to last year's list where you can read the details of that restaurant. Restaurants which are consistently good certainly deserve recognition, and I have tried to place their returning winners at the bottom of this post.

This year, I have also added a special new category, Overall Favorite Restaurant. This will highlight one place which has most impressed me over the past year, a consistent performer which has maintained a superior quality in all aspects. This restaurant receives my highest recommendation though all of the favorites in this post are also very worthy, deserving of my strong recommendation. In addition, you will find more Favorites from outside Massachusetts as I traveled a good deal this past year. I hope you enjoy all of these recommendations.

Overall Favorite Restaurant: Congratulations and kudos to Bergamot, an innovative and impressive restaurant in Somerville. Their food is superb, and the chef often combines what may seem to be disparate ingredients and creates delectable and harmonious dishes. From a phenomenal Pork Belly Ravioli, to an incredible Roast Chicken, the ever changing menu always has plenty of compelling dishes. They also have a killer wine list, with plenty of interesting choices, as well as an excellent cocktail program. Service is always professional and attentive, and the entire staff works well as a single unit. I have written a few times about Bergamot, including here, here and here. Every time I have dined here has been an excellent and delectable experience. It receives my highest recommendation and I urge all my readers to dine here.

Favorite Suburban Restaurant: The winner is AKA Bistro, which won last year for Favorite New Suburban Restaurant. This is another restaurant which is very consistent, offering excellent French and Japanese cuisine, very good service, and an interesting wine and sake list. From the savory, home made Miso Soup to the addictive Mussels, both cuisines please the palate. Though they are located only a few minutes off Rt.128, they still seem a hidden treasure and you should make the effort to dine there. The Runner-Up in this category is 51 Lincoln in Newton, which has an eclectic menu of cuisines, including Italian, Latin, French, Thai, Cambodian and more. The food is usually local, artisanal and quite delicious. I need to eat there again very soon.

Favorite Suburban Italian Restaurant: Italian restaurants are ubiquitous in the suburbs, but too many of them are simply average. But you can find an excellent Italian spot in Woburn, Tre Monte. They offer reasonably priced and hearty portions of tasty Italian staples and their own specialties. In addition, their Bolognese is killer, and I am very picky as to my Bolognese sauce. They also deserve kudos for their Arancini, a great blend of a crisp and crunchy exterior concealing lots of gooey cheese.

Favorite North Shore Restaurant: This winner also has a killer Bolognese and Arancini, making it a worthy choice for dinner. 62 Restaurant & Wine Bar in Salem is gaining lots of recognition for its cuisine and the kudos are well deserved. Plus, they are bold enough to have an all Italian wine list, including plenty of interesting choices.This is another restaurant I need to dine at again very soon.

Favorite Unique Ethnic Restaurant: Sometimes delicious food can be found in the most unlikely places. Moby Dick, located on Huntington Avenue, looks very unassuming, the kind of place you might walk by and never give a chance. But their food will surprise and impress you, from their moist and tender kabobs to their intriguing rice dishes. Very reasonably priced, portions are good and there are plenty of options, including organic and vegetarian. Don't pass this place by!

Favorite Pizza Chain: Many pizza chains offer, at best, only an average pizza and it is often better to find an independent pizza shop. But, Naked Pizza is one of the exceptions, offering a tasty pizza, which is also healthier for you. The pizzas are generally reasonably priced, though I have a small issue with how they price their additional ingredients. They are mainly a delivery and take-out shop and make a great option rather than places like Dominoes. They only have two locations currently, Brookline and Brighton, but are looking to expand and hopefully they will venture out to the suburbs at some point.

Favorite New Hampshire Restaurant: I don't dine enough in New Hampshire and that should change as there are a number of worthy spots throughout the state. This year, I was most impressed with Lobster Q, located in Hampstead, which offers seafood and barbecue. Their clam chowder was superb, the fried clams quite a delight and the ribs were compelling. Much of their food is made from scratch, including their barbecue sauces, and the quality elevates this place above many similar places. So if you are in southern New Hampshire, why not make a stop here for lunch or dinner.

Favorite Newport Restaurant: You probably would not expect to find creative Mexican cuisine in Newport, Rhode Island but it exists and it is excellent. Perro Salado, Spanish for "salty dog," does not offer traditional Mexican cuisine but rather Mexican-inspired dishes, and they are making some amazing food from their Grilled Romaine Caesar Salad to the mouth watering Sticky Pork Ribs. They have plenty of different tequilas, including an extensive list of cocktails such as margaritas.

Favorite Syracuse Restaurant: When seeking restaurant recommendations for Syracuse, New York, nearly everyone mentioned Dinosaur Bar-B-Que. They were largely correct and I will add my recommendation as well. Forget the wine list, this is a place for beer, hard cider and cocktails. For food, go for items like the Catfish Strips, Cornbread and BBQ Pork Ribs. A casual place, service is very good and the prices are reasonable.

Favorite New York City Bakery: NYC has so many excellent bakeries and restaurants, but I do have to give kudos to some of my newest finds. Momofuku Milk Bar, part of David Changs's culinary empire, is innovative and creative, with plenty of absolutely tasty baked goods, both sweet and savory. From Cornflake cookies to Cornbread with cortija cheese & jalapenos, their products really impressed. Please check them out!

Favorite New York City Lunch: David Chang deserves much praise, and the Momofuku Ssäm Bar, located across the street from the Milk Bar, is the place to go for lunch. You must have their Rotisserie Duck, which offers simply one of the best pieces of duck I have ever had, tender, moist and flavorful. This duck has remained locked in my memory and on my next trip to NYC, I will definitely return here. Their Steamed Pork Buns impressed as well, and I don't think any of the dishes will disappoint. Rush to eat here!

Favorite Charlottesville Restaurants: While at the Wine Blogger's Conference, I found time to explore a number of restaurants in Charlottesville, Virginia, and I lucked out, finding several worthy places. I compiled a single post, describing the good places that I found, from excellent country fried steak at The Nook to delicious sushi at Ten.

Favorite Portland, Oregon Restaurant: This is a tie between two restaurants, Pok Pok and Ping, owned by the same chef, Andy Ricker. From the addictive Ike's Vietnamese Fish Sauce Wings to the mighty Kha Muu Thawt, Chef Ricker is creating some superb Asian cuisine. The restaurants are casual spots, a great place to hang out with friends, drink and enjoy tasty food. I will be sure to return there when I go back to Portland next summer.

Favorite Underappreciated Restaurant: For the second year, the winner is T.W. Food in Cambridge. Though its location is off the beaten path, it is well worth the effort to dine here. It is an intimate spot with superb food and wine, killer special events and very reasonably priced for the quality you will find. Make a resolution to dine here in 2012.

Favorite Brunch, Traditional Fare: For a second year, the winner is AKA Bistro in Lincoln.

Brunch, Traditional Fare-Honorable Mention: For a second year, my choice is Tupelo in Inman Square.

Favorite Brunch, Non-Traditional Fare: For the third year in a row, the winner is Myers & Chang in the South End.

Favorite Donuts: For a second year, the winner is Donut City in Lynn.

Favorite Japanese Restaurant: For a second year, the winner is Oishii in the South End.

Favorite Chinatown Restaurant: For a second year, the winner is Gourmet Dumpling House.

Favorite Asian Buffet: For a third year, the winner is Taipei Tokyo Cafe in Woburn.

Favorite North End Restaurant, High End: For a second year, the winnner is Prezza, due to dinners like this one, with Rabbit Parmigiano.

Favorite North End Restaurant, Moderate: For a second year, the winner is Nebo.

Favorite North End Restaurant, Fusion: For a second year, the winner is Taranta.

Favorite Italian Restaurant Outside the North End: For a second year, the winner is Coppa.

Favorite Italian Restaurant, Somerville: For a second year, the winner is Pizzeria Posto.

Favorite Suburban Steak House: For a second year, the winner is Beacon Grille in Woburn.

Favorite Fried Seafood: For the second year, the winner is the Clam Box in Ipswich.

What were some of your favorite restaurants this year?

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

2011-12-15T04:00:00.033-05:00

I am back again with a new edition of Thursday Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I briefly highlight some interesting wine and food items that I have encountered recently.
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1) To welcome the New Year, Executive Chef Anthony Caturano of Prezza will dish out specials sure to get 2012 rolling on a high note. The specials are available on Saturday, December 31, from 5pm – 11pm (restaurant open until 2am). Call 617-227-1577 for reservations.

Foie Gras ($15)
Cranberry lentils and celery root puree with toasted bread
Baked Oysters ($16)
Stuffed with mascarpone, radicchio and scallions
Nantucket Scallop Crudo ($18)
Fennel, chili and Meyer lemon
Veal Agnolotti ($15; $28)
Brown butter, sage and truffle
Rotisserie Bone-in Ribeye (for two: $80)
Twice baked potato stuffed with lobster

2) The Beacon Hill Hotel & Bistro will be hosting a special New Year’s Eve Dinner, on Saturday, December 31, from 5:30pm-11pm, featuring the culinary styling of Executive Chef Richmond Edes. Early birds can finish dinner and enjoy live music performances while taking in the beautiful ice sculptures displayed in Boston Common, located just steps from the restaurant. Or, guests can ring in the New Year by dining later in the evening when the mood begins to levitate and the champagne starts flowing.

The cost is $77 per person and includes a Prosecco toast. Optional three course wine pairing for an additional $29. Book early for this very special evening by calling 617-723-7575.

New Year’s Eve Prix-Fixe Menu

Amuse Bouche
Woodbury Wellfleet Oyster, Oyster Gelée, Caviar
Nino Franco "Rustico" Prosecco di Valdobbiadene Toast
Appetizers
Maine Lobster Bisque (Lobster Knuckle, almond, Foie Gras Emulsion)
Butter Lettuce Salad (Winter Citrus, Hearts of Palm, Black truffle Vinaigrette)
Nantucket Bay Scallop Ceviche (Persimmon, Lemon, Celery)
Vermont Quail en Farcie (Yellow eye beans, Black Kale)
Seared Red Snapper (Black Trumpet Mushrooms, Herb Coulis, Celeriac)
Supplement Course for Two For An Additional $20.00
Torchon of Foie Gras de Canard (Crabapple Jelly, Grains of Paradise, Rum Raisin Brioche)
Main Courses
Wild Striped Bass (Pickled Clam and Faro Salad, Fennel, Beurre Rouge)
Butter Poached Maine Lobster (Miatake Mushrooms, Parsnip, Lemon, Chili’s)
Roasted Sirloin (Bone Marrow, Root vegetables, Potato Mousseline)
Heritage Pork Roulade (Petite Brussels Sprouts, Moroccan Spiced Pumpkin)
Long Island Duck Breast (Heirloom Apple, Parsnip, Frissée, Prune Jus)
Potato Gnocchi (Braised Greens, Beets, Tallegio, Black Truffle)
Desserts or Cheese
Lemon Semifreddo, White chocolate, gingerbread
Warm Chocolate Pudding, Caramel, Banana Ice Cream
Bay Leaf Flan, Mint syrup, candied Citrus
Selections of Local & Imported Cheese

3) This holiday season, Culinary Director Lydia Shire and Executive Chef Mario Capone will be dishing out festive specials to celebrate Christmas Eve and New Year’s Eve at Towne Stove and Spirits in Boston’s Back Bay.

On Christmas Eve, Shire and Capone will team up to touch upon “The Feast of the Seven Fishes” tradition by serving up two specialty appetizers: Octopus Carpaccio (with hot cherry pepper oil, saffron aioli and crushed potato - $18); and, Baccala Fritters (with sundried tomato pesto and crispy capers - $15).

To ring in First Night in the Back Bay, the culinary duo will serve up a special entrée: Pan Roasted Dover Sole (with king crab, black trumpet mushrooms and citrus hollandaise - $55).

WHEN: Specials available on December 24th & December 31st during dinner service from 5:30pm – 11:00pm

4) If you don't want to venture into Boston for New Year's Eve, then consider going to the suburbs, to AKA Bistro in Lincoln. They are offering a 4-course prix fixe, for $72 per person, and will have the Jazz duo of Mark Kross and Dan Weiner perform all night

Menu:
--Toro Tartare with Fromage Blanc Sorbet, caviar & nori croquant
--Pheasant Gallantine with toasted oak infusion, spiced pumpkin bread
--Poached Halibut with Sunshoke Soubisse, crispy quinoa & micro bok choy
OR
--Roast Calotte of Beef with sauce Perigueux, honshimeji mushrooms, pomme fondant and baby Brussel sprouts
--Peppermint Marshmallow Lollipop with hot chocolate
--Frangipane Biscuit with blood orange, passionfruit, pignoli and cassis

** Add $31 for wine pairings with each course.
*** A six course prix fixe with oysters, truffles, scallops and foie gras is also available for $98

2004 Aubry Le Nombre D'Or Millesime Premier Cru

2011-12-14T04:00:00.112-05:00

It is nearly a secret, a bit of information which much of the Champagne literature chooses to ignore or hide. Ask the average wine lover and they probably won't know about it. Though it may not be of major significance, it is still an intriguing fact and provides an element of uniqueness to the Champagne region. There is probably no other sparkling wine anywhere in the world which can make the same claim.

It is commonly known that Champagne may be made from Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier. But, much fewer people are aware that four other grapes are permitted as well, including Arbanne, Petit Meslier, Pinot Blanc and Pinot Gris, though those grapes constitute less than 0.3% of all plantings. Arbanne? Petit Meslier? Many people probably never even heard of these grapes, let alone knew that they were permitted in Champagne.

Because of their limited availability, very few producers use these additional four grapes and one of them is Domaine Aubry. With roots extending back to 1790, the Aubry estate and one of their vineyards is located in the village of Jouy-les-Reims, while they also own vineyards in Coulommes-la-Montagne, Pargny-les-Reims, and Villedommange. It is a small Grower's winery, producing only about 12,000 cases annually. One and a half hectares are devoted to the four uncommon Champagne grapes, and they produce two different cuvees using these grapes.

I purchased one of these cuvees, the 2004 Aubry Le Nombre D'Or Millesime Premier Cru Jouy, Campaniae Veteres Vites (about $50). The phrase "campaniae veteres vites" means “the old vines of the countryside.” This cuvee is a blend of all seven permitted grapes so it is a very unique cuvee. Most importantly, it is a compelling wine, with delicious flavors and plenty of character and complexity. The melange of flavors I discerned included orange, honey, peach, lemon, and mild herbal notes, minerality and floral accents. It is elegant and intriguing, a Champagne to slowly savor and enjoy rather than guzzling your flute. Like many other Grower's Champagnes, I think this wine is an excellent value for the price, which should easily compete with House Champagnes at twice the price or more.

Go beyond the ordinary and seek our Grower's Champagne. And when you do, consider the winery Aubry, which is keeping alive some rare Champagne grapes.

2011: Favorite Wine, Spirit & Drink Related Items

2011-12-13T04:00:00.106-05:00

What were some of my favorite wine, spirit and drink-related items of the past year?

Let me continue the lists of my best recommendations and favorites of the past year, 2011. I have already posted my Top Ten Wines Under $15, Top Ten Wines Over $15 and Top Wines Over $50 lists. This post will now concentrate on some of my Favorite Wine, Spirit and Drink Related Items. This is certainly not a complete list but it is more a sampling of compelling and memorable matters I have experienced and posted about over the past year.

This is also a purely subjective list, based on my own preferences, and makes no claims about being the "best" of anything. But all of the items here have earned my strong recommendations and I hope you will enjoy them as well. Some of the winners are the same as last year, and if so, I will provide a link to last year's list where you can read the details of that place or item. Consistency certainly deserves recognition. For more wine, spirit and drink related items, you can just search my blog posts for the past year.

Favorite Discount Wine Stores: With our continued difficult economic times, price is very important so many people want bargains. For wine, there are several excellent options, stores which provide not only good prices, but also an interesting selection as well as good service. I want to highlight three such stores which do an especially good job: Bin Ends in Braintree, Wine Connextion in North Andover and the Wine Cellar of Stoneham. I have highlighted these stores before and they have remained consistent, offering excellent bargain wines and you won't go wrong checking any of them out.

Favorite New Boutique Wine Store: Though it is actually not a newly opened store, it is new to me and I was very impressed with Winestone in Chestnut Hill. Owner Patrick Dubsky has created a haven for wine lover's with an intriguing selection of wines, good prices and helpful service. There is a PG-13 section, where you will find value wines under $13. There are also sections devoted to importers, showcasing the amazing wines some excellent importers, such as Adonna Imports, are bringing into Massachusetts. If you are near the Route 9 area, you must make a stop here to check out this store.

Favorite New Boston Wine Store: This winner of this category is actually a new store, which just celebrated its one anniversary. Bacco's Wine & Cheese, located near the Park Plaza, has a good selection and their prices have not been inflated merely because it is a Boston location. Plus, they have a cheese counter and serve sandwiches and other delicious foods as well. Kind of one-stop shopping for a tasty evening. Plus, they carry Sake which always endears a store in my heart.

Favorite Wine Shop, South of Boston: You might not realize that there is a fair number of wine and liquor stores in the Foxboro/Mansfield area but one boutique shop stands out to me, The Reserve Bin in Foxboro. Run by the the perky and passionate Kristin Braga, this is another wine lover's haven, with a diverse selection, including a large local wine showcase. You would be hard pressed to find another wine store that carries as many different local wines. They also carry sake, sherry and boxed wines, in addition to craft beers and cigars. Go visit the self-described "vegetarian ninja."

Favorite Suburban Wine Store: Once again, the Lower Falls Wine Company remains my favorite suburban wine store, due to its diverse selection, good prices, excellent service and superb tasting events. Highly recommended!

Honorable Mention Suburban Wine Stores: I want to give some kudos to a few other suburban wine stores which deserve recognition for their consistently good work. These include the Beacon Hill Wine & Gourmet in Melrose, Vintages: Adventures in Wine in Belmont, the Spirited Gourmet in Belmont, and Wine-Sense in Andover.

Favorite North End Wine Store: For the third year in a row, the Wine Bottega is the winner. Consistency once again trumps.

Favorite Newport Wine Store: While visiting Newport, Rhode Island, you should stop by Bellevue Avenue and check out the Newport Wine Cellar. It carries artisan wines, craft beers and spirits and I found many fascinating selections there. This summer, they had a large selection of Rosé wines which impressed me. Price points range from under $10 to high-end and pricey European classics. Plus, next door, the owner also has a gourmet food and cheese shop, so you can find everything you need to fill your cravings.

Impressive New York City Wine Store: New York City has plenty of excellent wine stores and I wanted to highlight one independent store that was new to me and which I found particularly compelling. Ambassador Wine & Spirits has two floors of wine, including plenty of Grower's Champagne, Burgundy, older Ports & Sherries, and much more. In addition, they have a large and diverse selection of Sake and Shochu. You could easily while away the hours perusing the shelves and finding many intriguing bottles. It is a store that I will return to on any future NYC trip and which I recommend to anyone else visiting the city too.

Favorite Wine Dinner: In New York City, I got the chance to dine at the famed Le Cirque, experiencing an incredible Portuguese dinner with the wines of Herdade do Esporão. In fact, our chef for the evening was Miguel Vaz Oliviera, the winery's own chef. The food was amazing, the wines sublime and the company convivial. From Portuguese garlic soup to braised pork cheeks, from a killer Rosé to a superb Douro red. A memory for many years to come.

Favorite Single Winery Tasting: The wines of the Châteauneuf-du-Pape region can be amazing, and Chateau La Nerthe is a stellar producer from this area. While enjoying lunch at L'Espalier, I got to taste an incredible line-up of La Nerthe wines, including older wines from 1982 and 1986, as well as a rare and unique 1995 Fin de la Nerthe, an eau de vie. These are not inexpensive wines but they are high quality and age-worthy wines sure to impress. Why not splurge for the holidays.

Favorite High-End Wine Tasting: This was an easy decision as the Wine Spectator Grand Tour had no peer. 200 amazing wines, plenty of food, little waiting time at any table. You rarely see so many high-end wines all together, and it was well worth the $200 ticket price. This was the first time the event was held in Boston, and hopefully it will return again some year soon. If you missed this tasting, you truly missed a grand event.

Worst Wine Tasting: Yes, I attended one disastrous wine tasting this year, the Inferno at Monticello. Though there were great intentions, to have an outside tasting on the grounds of Jefferson's historic Monticello, the intense temperatures, over 100 degrees, ruined any chances of a proper tasting of over 60 Virginia wines. It is a shame but hopefully the lesson was learned and there won't be a repeat of this disaster ever again.

Favorite Varietal Tasting: Muscadet just seems to be one of those under appreciated wines yet it is worthy of much attention. Made from the Melon de Bourgogne grape, Muscadet can be transformed into a wide diversity of styles, and often can be a great value, even for aged Muscadet. At a Muscadet tasting at the Island Creek Oyster Bar, I got to experience a range of Muscadets, including one from 1995 (which only cost $25!). If you are looking for a interesting value white wine, check out Muscadet.

Favorite Wine Trip, International: This year, I visited four different countries for wine trips, including Argentina, Canada, Chile and France. In addition, I visited France on two separate occasions, checking out Champagne and Bordeaux. My favorite trip though had to be Argentina, which just brought together everything so well, including food, wine, people, weather, and more. The Mendoza region was beautiful, the people were so welcoming, the food amazing and the wines were very delicious. I would easily return there to further explore the region and highly recommend it to any wine lover. The other trips were all good too, but Argentina simply stands out at the top.

Favorite Wine Trip, Domestic: This year, I traveled to Niagara, Virginia, and Oregon on wine trips and my clear favorite was Portland, Oregon. Once again, everything on this trip coalesced so well, from the people to the wine, from the food to the sake. Portland is such an amazing food and drink city, offering much not matter what your personal preferences. I am very excited to be returning there in 2012 for the next Wine Blogger's Conference.

Favorite Wine Magazine: For the third year in a row, Decanter, a British wine magazine, continues to impress me with its extensive coverage of many less common wine regions, often ignored or marginalized in other wine publications. Plus it has an amusing wine cartoon in every issue. This is a magazine that continues to deliver, and I eagerly look forward to each issue.

Favorite Wine Book: After waiting four years for the English translation to be published, the first volume of The Drops of God did not disappoint. It is a Japanese manga, a comic book, about wine and has been highly influential in Japan. Besides entertaining, the book also educates people about wine, helping to reduce the intimidation factor. In addition, some of the language it uses, especially in describing wine is quite poetic. Every wine lover should read this book, and the second volume is being released today. I will be sure to get my copy.

Runner-Up Wine Book: Biodynamics is a controversial topic and wine writer Katherine Cole chose to cover the subject in Voodoo Vintners: Oregon's Astonishing Biodynamic Winegrowers. Though the book probably won't convert anyone, it is an easy read, helping to cut through some of the complexity of biodynamics. In addition, it tells some fascinating stories of Oregon wine makers, which are sure to interest any wine lover.

Favorite Wine & Food Pairing Book: Taste Buds and Molecules: The Art and Science of Food With Wine by Francois Chartier is a fascinating look at the science behind wine and food pairings, and Chartier helps you understand why some pairings work better than others. The role of aromas, volatile compounds, bridge ingredients and more are explained in a fairly easy manner, bringing plenty of new information to this topic. Sure, there may be no real rules for wine & food pairing, but there are good reasons why some pairings are effective.

Favorite Local Wine Bloggers: Locally, there is only a small number of blogs dedicated 50% or more to wine, being far outweighed by hundreds of local food blogs. But, of that small group, there are a number who deserve praise for their wine writing. First, kudos to two veteran wine bloggers who are keeping the passion for wine alive and consistently produce compelling work: Adam of Wine Zag and Robert of The Wellesley Wine Press. Second, as for newcomers, I want to give kudos to Rob of Fringe Wine, who covers more unusual grapes, blends and styles (which I think is a great idea).

Favorite Wine Blogging Advice: Some of the best advice for wine bloggers, or any bloggers for that matter, came from the famed Jancis Robinson at the Wine Blogger's Conference in Virginia. I summarized her recommendations into a more convenient acronym: AHOO (Accurate, Humble, Opinionated & Original). As the New Year approaches, I hope that all bloggers consider her advice and maybe make some changes to their blogs for 2012.

Top Wine Controversy: This past year, I have pushed to help protect wine place names, such as Champagne, Sherry and Port. As a lawyer and wine lover, I see the importance and rationale for such protection. In March, I penned a Rant, Protecting Champagne from the U.S., and followed up with a second Rant, going into more detail on the matter. This led to some questions on Twitter and a brief response from Barefoot Cellars, produced by E.& J. Gallo Winery, which calls some of their California wines "Champagne." I followed up for an explanation from them for why they used this term, but my inquiry was largely ignored, except for them to state it was legal for them to do so. But just because something is legal does not mean it is right. In April, I questioned a local Spanish restaurant, Tapeo, why they had four wines listed under "Sherry" when none of them were actually authentic Sherries. This led to a social media failure, as they wrongly ignored and then deleted my Facebook questions and comments on this issue. I will continue to pursue the protection of wine place names in 2012.

Favorite Bourbon: We need to welcome back Four Roses Bourbon, which was unavailable in the U.S. for over forty years but has returned. A distinctively American product, bourbon is probably most popular in the South, but it should be more popular everywhere. Four Roses is a more unique product, and the distillery uses ten different recipes to make their bourbons. Their portfolio has several different tasting bourbons, which should appeal to most preferences and I was certainly impressed, especially by their Single Barrel.

Favorite Scotch: One of a handful of family Scotch distilleries still existing in Scotland, Balvenie has plenty of experience and truly tries to produce an artisan product. Their product line is impressive, especially its diversity, including the use of several different types of finishing barrels, from Oloroso to Port barrels. The taste of their Scotches is sublime, and a glass or two would be perfect as winter nears. Their 15 Year Old Single Barrel might have been my favorite of their portfolio.

Favorite Domestic Distillery: Oregon is home to many smaller distilleries and I only got to visit one of them, but it was an impressive one, House Spirits Distillery. They make a variety of products, including gin, aquavit, whiskey and rum. Though I am not usually a fan of gin, I really enjoyed their Aviation Gin, which has a greatly reduced juniper flavor. Their aquavit is very intriguing as is their white whiskey. You can find their products locally and they are worth seeking out.

Favorite New Vodka: I am very particular about my vodka so when I find a new vodka that I enjoy, it is a big deal to me. At this year's New England Food Show, I really enjoyed the V-One Vodka, which though it is distilled in Poland, has roots in Massachusetts. It is a smooth and clean drink, the type of vodka I would sip just on the rocks. Plus, it is made from 100% Spelt, an ancient grain which adds a slight nutty element to its taste. And at about $25 per bottle, it is well worth the price.

Favorite New Liqueur: Seeking a new liqueur for the holidays? Why not consider Xante, a pear-infused Cognac liqueur. It possesses complex flavors, is not overly sweet, and has a prominent pear flavor. It seems to pair well with sparkling wine for a refreshing cocktail and was a huge hit at a couple parties. Though European women seem to prefer to drink it straight, I think it would be best in a cocktail.

Favorite Unusual Cocktail: For the carnivore cocktail lovers out there, get yourselves to The Gallows for their aptly named Abbatoir (which means slaughterhouse). This cocktail contains Batavia Arrack, Lillet, Tawny Port, as well as Veal Stock and Caramelized Onions! Meat in your cocktail? Yes, it actually works very well, providing a very savory note to the cocktail. And there are no chunks of anything in the stock, just delicious umami flavors. We need more cocktails like this.

Favorite Cocktail: While in Chile, I got hooked on the Pisco sour, a cocktail produced from the spirit Pisco. Pisco is making a resurgence in the U.S., though it had been very popular here during the Gold Rush. The Pisco Sour is made with Pisco, Lemon Juice, Simple Syrup and an Egg White, and topped by Angostura Bitters. I prefer that it is not too sweet, and if made right, they go down very easy. Beware though the effects of too many Pisco Sours.

Favorite Beer: This is probably a category you never thought to see on my blog, given my general dislike for all beer. The taste of beer just doesn't appeal to me, but I did have one this year which I found palatable. The Lucky Buddha is a Chinese lager, brewed from all natural ingredients including malt, rice, water and hops. It is crisp, refreshing and light, with a mild flavor. Plus it comes in a green bottle shaped like Buddha, which is very cool! I am not sure what beer fans might think of this brew, but if you are not usually a fan of beer, give this a try.

Favorite Non-Alcoholic Drink: The drinking vinegars at Pok Pok and Ping in Portland, Oregon are worthy beverages. Fruit is macerated in vinegar and soda water is later added, creating a lightly carbonated fruit juice, low in sweetness and with a slight tartness. I really like the fact they don't taste as sweet as many other sodas, and feel more refreshing. They are available in some stores in Portland and will be coming to New York City in the near future.

What were some of your favorite wine, spirit and drink related items this year?

Rant: Don't Be A Selfish, Greedy Glutton

2011-12-12T04:00:00.066-05:00

As the holiday season nears, food and wine blogs are ramping up to spread holiday cheer. You will read epic tales of sumptuous feasts, accompanied by expensive and rare bottles of wine. You will read plenty of holiday recipes, describing how to prepare some of the most decadent dishes. You will read of pricey gifts received, from costly electronics to tropical vacations. Colorful photos will display all of these hedonistic pleasures in their alluring glory.

But I want to see something more, something meaningful.

I don't want to be regaled by selfish, greedy gluttons. Instead, I want to hear about charitable efforts to help those less fortunate. This should be a time of generosity and charity, of giving to others rather than gorging only ourselves. Though many love the holiday season, it can be a very sad time for those with little or nothing. Every community has some people who find it difficult merely to pay for basic essentials. Share your largess with others, helping those who truly need it.

Even though these are tough economic times for many of us, we all probably can help out others, even if only in little ways. If you cannot spare money, then donate your time or make something to give to others, maybe bake a pie, cookies or casserole. Donate old clothes or other durable items which you no longer use. There are many different ways to help out others besides just monetary donations.

During this season, there are numerous restaurants, chefs, stores and others which are holding special charitable events. Promote those events on your blogs, spreading the word far and wide. Attend those events, encouraging others to do the same. Give to your favorite charities, whatever they might be. Just don't revel in selfish, greedy gluttony, ignoring the plight of others.

This applies to our readers as well, and I encourage all of you to be charitable as well, in whatever way that you can. Be creative in your efforts, even if your own finances are tight. That would be the best gift I could receive from my readers, the knowledge that you have all helped out those less fortunate.

I will do my own part to help the less fortunate, to share what I possess. Year round, I promote numerous food and wine-related charitable events and probably will promote even more this season. I will give to several charities as well, even if I only can give small amounts, to those which are personally close to my heart. I will try to help in a number of different ways and I strongly encourage all of my fellow bloggers to do the same this season.

Let us share with all during this joyous holiday season.

2011 In Review: A Collection of Lists

2011-12-10T04:00:00.007-05:00

At the end of each year, I compile about eight lists of my Favorites of the past year: the top wines, restaurants, foods, sake, spirits, and more. These summary posts help my readers more easily find my favorites of the past year, rather than skimming through hundreds of posts on their own. I also enjoy compiling these lists as it enables me to scan over my blog for the past year, to relive many pleasant memories of the food and drinks which most pleased me.

The lists do not necessarily address the "Best" of anything, as I have not partaken of everything in any category so cannot pass such judgments. But, every item on these lists gets my strongest recommendations and I have faith that they should strongly appeal to most of my readers. Kudos go to all of those who are listed in my Favorites, as they have well earned the accolades.

I hope you enjoy.

2011: Top Ten Wines Under $15
2011: Top Ten Wines Over $15
2011: Top Wines Over $50
2011: Favorite Wine, Spirit and Drink-Related Items
2011: Favorite Restaurants
2011: Favorite Food-Related Items
2011: Favorite Sake Items

Friday Sips & Nibbles

2011-12-09T09:36:00.000-05:00

I am back with a special Friday edition of Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I briefly highlight some interesting wine and food items that I have encountered recently. For this edition, I offer several suggestions for New Year's Eve and the Feast of the Seven Fishes.
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1) Enzo Restaurant & Bar, in Newburyport, is celebrating The Feast of the Seven Fishes, the traditional Christmas Eve dinner throughout Italy. The Feast is available on Friday, December 23rd and Saturday, December 24th by reservation only. This menu is $50 per person with a minimum of two people per Feast. As their menu utilizes only sustainably sourced fish and shellfish, some dishes may change slightly between now and the 23rd and 24th due to availability. Their full menu will also be available for those diners who are not fish fans.

Antipasti
Fritto misto / Fried calamari and vegetables
Insalata di baccala alla casalinga / House-cured salt cod salad
Pate di pesce affumicato / House-smoked bluefish paté
Insalata di casa / Mixed greens salad
Pasta e pesci
Branzino arrosto / Roasted striped bass
Cozze e vongole alla griglia / Broiled clams and mussels
Lasagna della Viglia / Lasagna with anchovy, a traditional Piemontese Christmas Eve pasta
Sarde in saor / Sweet and sour mullet, a traditional Venetian dish
Polenta
Verdure / Assortment of seasonal vegetables
Dolci
Biscotti / An assortment of holiday cookies
Gelati / House made gelato

Call them at 978-462-1801 to reserve your table.

2) Enzo Restaurant & Bar is also celebrating New Year's Eve by offering a four-course menu designed especially for this evening. Dinner will be served from 5pm-10pm. The cost is $65 per person and wine pairings will also be available. As they use only humanely-raised meat and 100% sustainably-sourced seafood in their menus, some dishes may change slightly between now and the 31st.

This special evening is available by reservation only, therefore they request a credit card number to hold all reservations. Cancellations must be received at least 24 hours in advance to avoid a $50 per person fee.

Diners can select from one of four offerings for each course.

First course
Selection of salumi (some house-made, some not), gnoccho fritto and pickled veg
Oysters on the half shell, mignonette
Butternut squash bisque with seared gnocchi
House-made salt cod fritters, balsamic vinegar aioli
Second course
Duck conserva raviolo with egg yolk, duck sugo, crisp leeks
House-smoked duck breast, brussels sprouts slaw, quince mostardo
Parsnip sformato winter spinach salad
Winter greens salad with citrus and pomegranate
Third course
Braised cotechino with lentils and crispy pork belly, pickled red cabbage
Beef filet and butter-poached lobster, potato purée, butter-braised spinach
Crespelle with roasted mushrooms, ricotta mousse, roasted tomato sugo
Pan-roasted striped bass, citrus butter, braised fennel crispy fingerlings
Dessert
Crema fritta, chocolate sauce, gianduja gelato
Chocolate torte, glazed chestnut ice cream
Lambrusco-baked pears, almond gelato, pistachio brittle
Bruléed honey-lemon tart, mascarpone-zabaglione mousse

Call them at 978-462-1801 to reserve your table.

3) Ring in the New Year with 62 Restaurant & Wine Bar in Salem. Chef/Owner Antonio Bettencourt is preparing a special four-course prix fixe menu for $70 per person ($90 with optional wine pairing) featuring his modern take on regional Italian dishes. Diners’ can also elect to dine à la carte and order from the regular dinner menu. This event takes place on Saturday, December 31st, 2011 from 5pm-11:30pm. Reservations are necessary so please call 978-744-0062.

Antipasti
Burrata (Just-warmed burrata over grilled ciabatta with pickled golden raisins & pinenuts)
Pork Belly (Confit pork belly over polenta with bosc pear mostarda)
Primi
Garganelli (Hand rolled garganelli with red wine braised duck, dried cherries, pinenuts & Tuscan kale)
Ravioli (Swiss chard and ricotta ravioli, braised artichokes, basil & preserved lemon vinaigrette)
Secondi
Zuppa di Pesce (Lobster, mussels, scallops and halibut in a spicy tomato and saffron brodetto)
Duo of Veal (Slow roasted veal sirloin and braised short rib, hen of the woods mushrooms & roasted cipolla)
Dolce
Torta al Caprino (Mascarpone and goat’s cheese tort with red wine spiced dried plums)
Warm Toffee Pudding (With toffee sauce and whipped cream)

4) This Christmas Eve, Saturday, December 24, from 5pm-9pm, Owner & Executive Chef Anthony Caturano will “The Feast of the Seven Fishes” at Prezza in Boston’s North End. This traditional Italian feast will be presented over five courses and features the following dishes:

First Course
Crispy Shrimp (With Italian slaw and cherry pepper aioli)
Second Course
Wood Grilled Squid & Octopus (With white beans)
Third Course
Tagliatelle (With scallops, shrimp, garlic and olive oil)
Fourth Course
Wood Grilled Swordfish (With saffron rice, beans and mussels)
Fifth Course
Bread Pudding

The Cost is $60 per person and you should call 617-227-1577 to make reservations.

5) Ring in the New Year at The Melting Pot in Bedford with a 5-course dining experience created just for the occasion. The Cost is $75 per Person (+ tax & 20% gratuity) or $65 per Person for reservations seated before 6:00pm (+ tax & 20% gratuity) and both include a Champagne toast with dessert (1 glass per person). Call (781) 791-0529 to make Reservations.

First Course
Champagne Swiss or Baked Potato Cheddar Fondue
Second Course
Colossal Shrimp Cocktail or Lemon Sorbet
Third Course
House or Caesar Salad
Fourth Course
Lobster Tail or Choice Angus Sirloin, accompanied by Shrimp, Buffalo Chicken, Memphis BBQ Pork Tenderloin & Wild Mushroom Sacchetti.
Cooking Styles: Court Bouillon, Bourguignonne, Mojo or Coq au Vin.
Fifth Course
(Accompanied by a Champagne Toast)
Bananas Foster or Snickerdoodle Chocolate Fondue

Vegetarian and Children's Options also available.

6) Legal Harborside will celebrate its first New Year’s Eve under the stars at Liberty Wharf this year. Hosted atop the roof at Legal Harborside in a glass-enclosed space, you can bid adieu to 2011 and welcome 2012. In addition to being supplied with festive noisemakers and hats, individual tickets to this sky-high soiree include the features as listed below. Legal Harborside will also offer table reservations to this year-end celebration (which includes the all of the following plus a bottle of bubbly – Adriano Adami “Dei Casel” Prosecco – and an appetizer platter):

Raw Bar, from 9pm – 11pm
Shrimp cocktail, four varieties of oysters, clams
Passed Hors D’oeuvres, from 10pm – 12am
Legal’s signature favorites
Midnight Toast with Bubbly at 12am
Adriano Adami “Dei Casel” Prosecco
Sweet Ending Dessert Bar from 12am – 1am
Chocolate dipped strawberries, towers of assorted cupcakes

COST: Individual tickets are available in advance for $80 per person by visiting www.legalseafoods.com. Individual tickets are available at the door for $100 per person on a limited basis. Table reservations are available in advance for $400 (for four people). Up to two additional guests may join the table for $60 per person. Access to this event will only be granted to guests with a ticket receipt and a 21+ ID.

7) The Beehive, in Boston's South end, will be open on Christmas Eve for dinner and live music. The night will feature live music from Jazzy Soul with the Marty Rowen Band from 8pm-12am, with dinner served from 5pm-11pm.

For more information or reservations visit www.beehiveboston.com or call (617) 423-0069.

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

2011-12-08T04:00:00.051-05:00

I am back again with a new edition of Thursday Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I briefly highlight some interesting wine and food items that I have encountered recently.
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1) This New Year’s Eve, Blue on Highland in Needham will mark the end of 2011 and the start of 2012 with a night of festive celebrations complete with menu specials served all night long (4PM to 11PM) and a New Year’s Eve special dinner package for two for reservations made after 8PM. The New Year’s Eve dinner package will feature two entrees, including butter-poached monkfish and lamb osso bucco, and a half-bottle of Veuve Clicquot Yellow Label for only $75 per couple. Join Blue into the waning hours of 2011 and receive a complimentary champagne toast at midnight.

For more information or for reservations, please call Blue on Highland at 781-444-7001 or visit www.blueonhighland.com.

Menu Specials:
Appetizer:
--Oysters Rockefeller, Served in puff pastry, $13
--Rissotto, Duck confit with roasted mushrooms and black truffle emulsion $22
Entrée
--Butter-poached monkfish with pearled couscous and a mache enoki mushroom salad $28
--Lamb osso bucco with balsamic burgundy demi-glace, germolata, parsnip-white bean puree and pancetta-braised brussel sprouts $28

2) Ring in the New Year with an evening of dinner, laughter and music at Sauciety Restaurant, located at The Westin Boston Waterfront Hotel. The night will be hosted by comedian Sal Votano and will include a 3-course prix fixe dinner with a variety of live entertainment. The evening will feature four stand-up comedians, headlined by Steve Sweeney, and a New Year’s celebration at midnight that includes a champagne toast, DJ and dancing.

Along with Sweeney and Votano, the live entertainment lineup features fellow comedians Dave Russo and Tony V, as well as singer Carissa Scudieri and Sinatra Experience performer Joey Canzano.

WHEN: Saturday, December 31, 2011 | 7:00 p.m. to 2:00 a.m.
TICKETS: Tickets can be purchased at www.laughstub.com
• VIP Ticket - $125/person, includes 3-course prix fixe dinner, VIP seating, entertainment & complimentary champagne toast (prix fixe dinner will be served from 7:00pm – 9:15pm)
• GENERAL Ticket - $65/person, includes entertainment & complimentary champagne toast (à la carte bar menu will be available for additional purchase)
* Cash bar will be available and is not included in ticket price
OTHER: This is a 21+ event, photo ID required. Event cost does not include cash bar. Seating preference is based on fist come first serve. Seating requests can be made, but are not guaranteed, by emailing aleksandar.bogdanic@westin.com

3) Olé Mexican Grill located in Cambridge and Zócalo Cocina Mexicana located in Boston are offering a reasonably priced option for New Year’s Eve with a special $38 per person, 3-course, prix fixe menu as well as treating their customers to free samples of “lucky foods” from around the world and late night surprises to ring in the New Year!

It’s a tradition in many cultures to feature certain food items just before, during, and just after the stroke of midnight. All Guests that are on hand just before the clock strikes twelve will be given a free platter of lucky foods from around the world to accompany their champagne toast and ensure luck in the New Year! (1 Per Table)

The special New Year’s Eve prix fixe menu will be offered in addition to the regular menus at Olé Mexican Grill and Zócalo Cocina Mexicana for $38pp. Dinner reservations are accepted at both restaurants until 11pm and the celebrations continue well into the early hours of the morning with a DJ at Zócalo Cocina Mexicana and lively lounge scene, and a festive environment at Olé Mexican Grill with a special DJ appearance late-night.

For Reservations, call Olé Mexican Grill (617) 492-4495 or Zócalo Cocina Mexicana (617) 456-7849.

4) On Saturday, December 31st from 9pm-2:30am, The Beehive in Boston’s South End will host their 5th annual New Year’s Eve gala event. The Beehive’s, “Discothèque Burlesque New Year's Eve 2012” is an evening of bohemian decadence and eccentric fun. Guests will explore their senses as they take in the wonders of sultry Parisian burlesque performances by Calamity Chang & Stormy Leather, two of New York City’s burlesque scene’s busiest performers and producers, and dance to the grooves of the all-star band The AB’s featuring vocalist Sinclair Jennings. Executive Chef Rebecca Newell will feature a buffet of hors d’oeuvres and desserts throughout the evening, all served in a cocktail setting. Top it all off and toast the evening with a glass of champagne featured on The Beehive’s champagne list; with over 69 champagnes, it’s one of the most extensive lists in New England!

Cost of the event is $105 per person with food buffet, or $75 per person without buffet. Tax and beverages not included. Both ticket options include admission and entertainment. There is a cash bar all evening. Must be 21+ to attend. Tickets/Reservations are available by calling 617-423-0069 or visiting www.beehiveboston.com.

5) Enjoy Christmas Day dinner at the Beacon Hill Hotel & Bistro on Sunday, December 25, from 1pm-10pm as Executive Chef Richmond Edes prepares a multi-course holiday feast. Reservations are strongly suggested and can be made by calling 617-723-7575.

MENU

Appetizers:
---Macomber Turnip and Chestnut Velouté, Cranberry, Herbs, Bacon Tuile
--Country Pâté, Traditional Accompaniments
--Baby Greens Salad, Hearts of Palm, Winter Citrus, Aged Chèvre, Banyuls
--Wellfleet Oysters on the Half Shell, Verjus Granita, Grains of Paradise
--Wild Mushroom Ravioli, Arugula, Porcini Broth

Wine pairing (optional)
2010 Domäne Wachau, Grüner Veltliner (Austria) or
2009 Château Pesquié Les Terrasses Rouge (Rhône Valley, France)

Entrees
---Free Range Turkey Roulade
Chestnut Dressing, Mashed Potatoes, Cranberry Sauce and Gravy
--Faroe Island Salmon
Roasted Parsnip, Quinoa, Brussels Leaves
--Fresh Potato Gnocchi
Black Kale, Miatake, Winter Radish
--Painted Hills Strip Loin
Pommes Robuchon, Nantes Carrots, Sauce Vin Rouge
--Roasted Goose Breast & Confit Thigh
Spiced Squash, Lentils du Puy, Pomegranate Jus

Wine pairing (optional)
2006 Kinton Syrah (Santa Barbara County, California) or
2009 Château Moncontour Vouvray (Loire Valley, France)

Desserts
--Bouche de Noël
--Chocolate Mousse Torte
--Pecan Pie
--Selections of Farmstead Cheese

Wine pairing (optional)
N/V Yalumba Muscat “Museum Reserve” (South Eastern Australia) or
N/V Quinta de Noval 10 Year Porto (Douro, Portugal)

Cost: $55 per person, $27 for optional wine pairing. A 20% gratuity will automatically be added to your bill.

6) BOKX 109 American Prime, located at Hotel Indigo, will host a New Year’s Eve prix-fixe dinner. This special four-course menu will feature seasonally inspired dishes prepared by BOKX 109’s Executive Chef Jarrod Moiles. Dinner will be complemented by live music provided by local artist Matt Antunes. The evening will include a champagne toast at midnight, and plenty of party favors to help ring-in the New Year.

The four-course offering will feature the following:
First Course
Choice of:
--Hudson Valley Foie Gras (Mushroom salad, Brioche, and Sour Cherry)
--Salmon Tartare (Caper, Yuzu, Scallion, Aioli, and Wonton Crisps)
Second Course
Choice of:
--Warm Vegetable Salad (Roasted Fall Baby vegetable, Chicory, Citrus Goat cheese dressing, and toasted Pistachio)
--Arugula and Fried Artichoke Salad (Gorgonzola, Roasted Beet, and Roasted Garlic Vinaigrette)
Third Course
Choice of:
--Lamb Larded Tenderloin (Bandt Farm Tenderloin stuffed with an Australian Lamb Chop, and served with
Winter Vegetable Ragout and Balsamic Roasted Shallot Jam)
--Lobster Stuffed Sole (Braised Winter Greens, Cipolinni Onion, Chorizo and Saffron Cream)
--Bacon Wrapped Pork Tenderloin (Corn Cake, Roasted Tomato Relish and House Mustard)
--Boneless 12 oz Delmonico (Turnip puree, Rock Shrimp Pancetta, Asparagus Hash and Burgundy Gastrique)
Fourth Course
Choice of:
--Goat Cheese Panna Cotta (Red Wine Poached Pear and Aged Balsamic)
--Chocolate Crème Brulee (Bailey’s Cream and Raspberry Sorbet)

Guests may select items from the special prix-fixe menu, or from BOKX 109’s regular menu.
When: Saturday, December 31, Dinner from 5 pm to 11pm, Bar is open from 4 pm- 1 am
Cost: $75 per person (excluding tax; includes a champagne toast at midnight and party favors)
To make a reservation please call 1-617-454-3399

2011: Top Wines Over $50

2011-12-07T04:00:00.001-05:00

What were some of my favorite wines of the past year?

Welcome to my third, and last, Top Wine List. I have already posted my Top Ten Wines Under $15 and Top Ten Wines Over $15. It is now time for my Top Wines Over $50. This list only has eight entries as there were not enough worthy wines to complete ten entries. I have certainly tasted more than 8 delicious wines over $50, but that is expected from some of the high-end wines I tasted. For this list, I only added those which were especially fascinating.

Like the prior lists, this list includes wines that during the past year I have enjoyed very much and which I also found to be particularly compelling for various reasons. They might be especially delicious, something more unique or just excellent values for the price. They all stand out for some particular reason above the other wines I tasted this past year.

This is a purely subjective list, based on my own preferences, and makes no claims about being the "best" wines out there. It is primarily the wines which spoke to me the loudest, even when they were subtle wines. These are all wines that I highly recommend and which I believe many other wine lovers will also enjoy.

The wines are not listed in any particular order and each choice is linked to my more detailed prior review. All of these value wines are worth your consideration but please also note that the prices are approximations and the actual price may vary in your area. In addition, some of the wines might not be available in your local area, though you might be able to order them from the winery or an online store, dependent on your state's shipping laws.

1) 2007 Bodegas Avanthia Mencia ($60-$70)
My friend Adam, of Wine Zag, introduced me to this wine over a game of poker. I really enjoy the Mencia grape and this wine was thoroughly impressive. The taste was lush and silky smooth, an appealing blend of rich fruit flavors, hints of minerality, spice notes and a lengthy and satisying finish. It was quietly seductive, an alluring partner whose lips beckon to be tasted. Only 100 cases were made so it might be a difficult wine to find.

2) 2004 Palacio de Otazu Altar ($50)
This Spanish wine is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Tempranillo, a muscular and complex wine that pleases with its tastes of black fruit, ripe plum, spice, vanilla, mocha, and more. Bring on a hearty steak and I would be very happy. This is not a wine you likely should drink on its own, but pair it up with dinner and enjoy.

3) 2002 Collard-Picard Cuvee des Archives Brut (50 Euros)
I have a love for Grower's Champagne and this is a perfect example of the the high quality you can find. It is a blend of old vine Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. This is an amazing Champagne, with a complex character and soul. It is a rich and concentrated wine, with plenty of acidity, some creaminess, and appealing flavors including apples, toast, and spice.

4) 2004 Pierre Gimonnet & Fils Special Club (36 Euros)
More Grower's champagne, this winery produces only Blanc de Blanc, Champagne made from Chardonnay. This wine is fresh, lively, complex and intriguing. Besides apple, melon and apricot notes, there is also a briny taste with hints of toast. It had a strong, unique character and each sip only mesmerized me even more.

5) NV Bruno Paillard Rosé Première Cuvée ($60-$70)
Bruno Paillard is one of the main producers of Rosé Champagne and this one was a stand out to me. Produced from 85% Pinot Noir and 15% Chardonnay, it was fresh and lively on my palate, with an intriguing mix of red fruits, a bit of citrus, and mild herbal notes. It also possessed a mild creaminess and an overall elegant structure. This would be an excellent food wine.

6) 2000 Disznoko Tokaji Aszu 6 Puttonyos ($75-$90/500ml)
This is the most expensive wine on my list but it is worthy of the accolades. It is a rich and elegant wine, well balanced and with plenty of acidity to offset its sweetness. A wine to be slowly savored, I could easily imagine this with a decadent plate of foie gras. It will age well and is sure to please for many years to come.

7) NV Ramos Pinto Tawny Port 20 Year Old Quinta do Bom-Retiro ($60-$70)
This unique Port was produced from a blend of 40 different vintages, including as far back as 1818. Its seductive nose led to an alluring taste, complex and sublime, with a long and lingering finish. This carefully crafted Port doesn't seem like it could have been any better. A wine to savor and share with good friends during a long evening.

8) 2006 Altos Las Hormigas Malbec Vistaflores (about $80)
You might be used to low cost Malbec but some impressive high end, terroir driven wines are being made in Argentina. This might be the best high-end Malbec I have ever tasted, and comes from an excellent vintage. Such complexity, character and a never ending finish make this a true winner. Enjoy value Malbecs but don't ignore the high end Malbecs now being produced.

France, with three wines, had the most spots on this list with Spain taking two, and Hungary, Portugal and Argentina each with one spot. These are wines well worth a splurge, and many of them are not norm when the average person considers a high end wine. There is no Bordeaux or Burgundy on this list, and even the Champagne is mostly Grower's, only a tiny percent which reach the U.S.

If you have some of your own recommendations for wines over $50, please add them to the comments.

2011: Top Ten Wines Over $15

2011-12-06T04:00:00.001-05:00

What were some of my favorite wines of the past year?

Welcome to my second Top Ten Wine List. Last week, I posted my Top Ten Wines Under $15, which I hope you enjoyed and found useful, and now it is time for my Top Ten Wines Over $15, though these wines also cost less than $50.

Like the prior list, it includes wines that during the past year I have enjoyed very much and which I also found to be particularly compelling for various reasons. They might be especially delicious, something more unique or just excellent values for the price. They all stand out for some particular reason above the other wines I tasted this past year.

This is a purely subjective list, based on my own preferences, and makes no claims about being the "best" wines out there. It is primarily the wines which spoke to me the loudest, even when they were subtle wines. These are all wines that I highly recommend and which I believe many other wine lovers will also enjoy.

The wines are not listed in any particular order and each choice is linked to my more detailed prior review. All of these value wines are worth your consideration but please also note that the prices are approximations and the actual price may vary in your area. In addition, some of the wines might not be available in your local area, though you might be able to order them from the winery or an online store, dependent on your state's shipping laws.

1) 2007 Bodegas Paso Robles Vaca Negra ($24)

For the second year in a row, this winery has a wine on this list. Owner and winemaker Dorothy Schuler is working wonders with Spanish and Portuguese grapes in California. This wine, a blend of 50% Tempranillo and 50% Mourvedre, is impressive, with a complex melange of appealing flavors and its lushness provides hedonistic pleasures. If you have not tried any of Dorothy's wines, I strongly encourage you to seek them out.

2) 2008 Francis Tannahill Dragonfly Gewürztraminer ($20-$25)
Though this is an Oregon winery, the grapes are from a select organic vineyard in Washington. The vineyard may have the oldest Gewürztraminer in the Northwest region and the wine is a superb example of this grape. Strongly aromatic with exotic spices and tropical fruits, this is a very appealing wine. One of the best Gewürztraminer I have tasted in some time.

3) 2009 Ayres Pinot Noir, Lewis Rodgers Lane ($35)
Also from Oregon, this wine is a blend of five Pinot Noir clones, and the winery itself is one of the relative newcomers to that region. But it is already producing excellent wines and this wine is beautiful, complex and possessed of an elegant melange of black and blue fruits with dark spice and earthiness. This is a winery to keep an eye on for the future.

4) NV Horton Vineyards Sparkling Viognier ($25)
I didn't get to taste anywhere near as many Virginia wines as I wanted to at the Wine Blogger's Conference, but of those that I did, this was a standout. It was crisp, clean and dry with flavors of peach, citrus and white flowers. It was a very appealing sparkling wine which should please many people.

5) 2008 Marani Mukuzani (about $17)
This year, I got some exposure to the wines of the country of Georgia, an area which is becoming hot in the wine world. There are over 500 indigenous grapes in Georgia though only about 38 are currently used for wine production.This wine is made from 100% Saperavi, offering enticing black cherry and plum aroma with a taste of those same fruits, meshed with vanilla, spice and a tinge of chocolate. Yet there was also a unique exotic taste to this complexity which eluded definition. An excellent value at this price.

6) 2007 Bagrationi 1882 Reserve Brut ($19.99)
Georgia also produces some intriguing sparkling wines, like this one which is a blend of Chinebuli, Mtsvane, and Tsitska, three grapes you have probably never heard of before. It was produced by the Methode Champenoise and possesses a strong minerality, almost a steely nature. The fruit flavors, some peach and melon, were subdued but noticeable. Clean, refreshing and with good acidity. A wine of character at a very reasonable price.

7) Bodegas Renacer Enamore ($30)
An Amarone style wine from Argentina? It is not as crazy as it sounds, especially considering how many Italians immigrated to Argentina. This wine is a blend of 62% Malbec, 14% Cabernet Sauvignon, 11% Cabernet Franc, 9% Bonarda, and 4% Syrah. All of the grapes were dried out for about three weeks. The result is a seductive and silky wine that is sure to tantalize your senses. This is a wine to share with someone you love.

8) 2009 Alma Negra Misterio ($40-$45)
As the name indicates, this wine is a bit of a mystery and the actual blend is secret, though it may contain Malbec, Petite Verdot, Merlot, Bonarda and/or Cabernet Sauvignon. Complex, smooth and well structured, it is a wine to slowly savor. It has more elegance than power, and it would be fine on its own, or paired with a hearty dish.

9) 1999 L D'or de Luneau-Papin 'Cuvee Medaillee' Muscadet Sevre et Maine ($25)
This may be one of the best bargains on the list, a 12 year old Muscadet. Complex and intriguing flavors with dried fruits, apricot, honey, minerality, and even some herbal notes. There was still plenty of life in this wine, and I would easily have bought a case at this low price. A wine of this quality rarely is priced this low.

10) 2008 Quinta dos Murças Reserva Red ($45)
Portugal impressed at the value wines, and now they represent on this list as well. This is a fascinating wine, a field blend of old vines, maybe 25 grapes or so. Only about five of the grapes in the blend are identifiable, making this a vinous mystery. It has an enticing and exotic nose, with an earthy and spicy smell mixed in with blackfruit, while its taste is a complex melange of earth, spice, vanilla, blackfruit and even mild hints of herbality. A superb wine which should impress most wine lovers and is an example of the best of Portugal.

This is always my toughest list to compile because there are numerous other excellent wines which I could have added. So I had to ponder long over which wines to actually add to this list. Last year, California dominated this list, occupying six spots but this year only a single California wine made the list. But three other U.S. wines did make the list, from Oregon, Washington and Virginia. Georgia (the country) and Argentina both occupy two spots on the list while France and Portugal each occupy one spot.

I have plenty of other recommendations for wines at this price point on my blog. There are top notch wines from countries all over the world, made from an incredibly diverse selection of grapes and you can still find plenty of values too. My advice is that you seek out wines outside of your comfort zone. Explore the multitude of diversity in the wonderful world of wine. Taste and try anything new, unique or potentially interesting. I am sure your search will lead to new favorites.

If you have some of your own recommendations for wines that are over $15 but under $50, please add them to the comments.

Rant: Rushing To Judge A New Restaurant

2011-12-05T04:00:00.089-05:00

As soon as a hot, new restaurant opens, there is a rush for food bloggers and online reviewers to dine there and immediately report back. Time is of the essence, with many wanting to be one of the first to review the new place. Often, they will eat there once and then post their thoughts. If they enjoyed the experience, they will likely return but if they didn't, then they probably will never go back. Such reviews might do a disservice to these restaurants, failing to take into consideration their newly opened status.

Opening a new restaurant is an arduous and expensive task and there is only so much advance planning that can be done. The true test is when the restaurant finally opens to the public, and then the restaurant might see certain problems and errors that need to be resolved. As such, I think a good rule of thumb is to allow a new restaurant about three months to fix all of the initial problems. That should give them sufficient time to identity and resolve the initial kinks that often plague all new establishments.

What that means then, is that anyone reviewing a restaurant during that initial three-month period needs to give some leeway to the place, to not judge them too harshly. Any negative issues that a reviewer finds might already be on a list to be fixed. So you cannot assume that those problems will continue to exist in the near future. The restaurant deserves the time and opportunity to resolve any initial issues.

There is nothing wrong with reviewing a restaurant during the first three months of its opening. But, how you review the place can be an issue. I usually preface my own such reviews, noting the newness of the place and that any problems I encountered could very well change once the initial kinks are worked out. I then try to return to the restaurant, once that three months period is over, to see what changes have been wrought.

But I have seen some bloggers who strongly criticize a new restaurant soon after it opens, and then never return. They rush to judge, without allowing the restaurant a fair amount of time to rectify any initial problems that are found. They do a true disservice to new restaurants as well as indicating their own lack of professionalism. Being first to review should not be their primary concern. Rather, they should be concerned with being fair to the new restaurant, being fair to the owners, chefs and staff who are working hard to make their new place successful.

If you are guilty of these offenses, then endeavor to change your ways. You can still review a restaurant soon after it opens, just measure your review with mercy and be prepared to return again, after at least three months, to see whether the restaurant has changed or not.

Unanswered Sake Questions: 2 Out Of 3

2011-12-04T04:00:00.186-05:00

With approximately 2000 years of history in Japan, sake has a rich and vibrant collection of legends, rituals, categories, types, brands, and more. Of course, all of that history is bound to lead to some unanswered questions, some fascinating sake mysteries. I am devoting this post to three sake questions which have intrigued me, two of which apparently lack answers. And I only discerned the answer to the third question very recently, and more by accident than purpose.

If anyone has any insight to the unanswered questions, or even just wants to offer their own theory, please leave me a comment. Or leave me your own sake questions for which you lack an answer.

1. Why isn't lactic acid a listed ingredient?

Junmai and Honjozo, the two main premium sake categories, can only possess four or five ingredients respectively. A Junmai, a "pure rice" sake, can only contain rice, water, yeast and koji-kin while a Honjozo has those same four ingredients as well as some distilled alcohol. Yet both usually contain another ingredient, which does not get listed on their labels, and I am very curious as to the rationale for that omission.

In brewing sake, a yeast starter, also called moto or shubo, is produced, combining water, rice, koji and yeast. In addition, lactic acid, known as hiochi-kin, is added to the moto to inhibit the growth of unwanted bacteria. This is known as the sokujo method, and at least 99% of all sake is made by this method. The lactic acid is very important to the brewing process, allowing the yeast to safely multiply, and preventing the growth of bacteria which would adversely affect the sake. The term sokujo is not listed on sake labels, but you should assume it was the method used unless the label specifically indicates a different method.

Yamahai and kimoto are two other brewing methods and in both, the brewer does not add any lactic acid. Instead, the brewer allows natural lactic acid from the air to enter the moto over time. This is a lengthier and riskier process, that often creates earthier and gamier sakes. If either of those methods is used, it is usually indicated on the label so you know lactic acid was not added by the brewer.

But why isn't lactic acid listed as an ingredient? The fact it is used in almost all sake is an insufficient reason to omit it, as all sake uses the four ingredients in Junmai too. Is it a matter of the small amount of lactic acid that is added? Maybe, but the great importance of the lactic acid should count for something. I have been unable to locate the answer to this question.

2. Why aren't "half bottles" of sake a standard size?

There is much standardization in the size of sake bottles and serving sizes. The smallest unit is the shaku, which is a serving size of 18ml. The masu, a traditional wooden drinking box, held 180ml, and that is considered a single serving of sake, also known as ichigo or just go. A tokkuri is a ceramic flask used to serve sake, most often warmed, and they usually come in a 1 or 2 go sizes, 180 or 360 milliliters. The standard sake bottle, known as a yongobin, holds 720ml or 4 go. There are two larger format bottles too, the ishoobin (or shou), which contains 1.8 liters or 10 go and the to-bin (or to) which contains 18 liters or 100 go.

With all this standardization, then you would assume to find half bottles with 360ml or 2 go, but that is almost never the case. Instead, you will usually find "half bottles" with 300ml, 330ml, 350 ml, or even 375ml. That seems to make no sense, especially as all of their other bottles are so standardized. What is the need for all these different sized half bottles? Why aren't 360ml bottles the norm? Once again, I have been unable to find any answer to this conundrum.

3. Why doesn't 365 Masu equal 1 Koku?

The masu, a traditional wooden drinking box that I mentioned above, holds 180ml and traditionally that was the measure of how much rice was needed to feed one person for one day. Traditionally, a koku was a measure of how much rice was needed to feed one person for one year. In medieval Japan, domains were measured by the amount of koku and samurai would sometimes receive their salaries in koku. Now, by simple math, a person would require 365 masu of rice for one year, so 365 masu should equal one koku.

But, in reality 1000 masu equal 1 koku. So why is that the case? I could not find an answer for some time but recently stumbled upon the answer while researching something else. It seems that in 1891, Japan decided to redefine the koku unit, making it smaller than it once had been (though I am unsure of their reasons). So, under the new measurement system, a koku now is approximately 180 liters, or 1000 masu.

2011: Top Ten Wines Under $15

2011-12-02T04:00:00.000-05:00

What were some of my favorite wines of the past year?

The start of a new year, 2012, nears and it is time for some reflection upon the past year, to remember and savor pleasant memories. At 2011 winds down, many in the media will publish their own lists of the best and worst of the past year, everything from books to movies to music. As usual, there will be plenty of lists, in magazines, newspapers and blogs, of the best and worst food, restaurants, wines and more. You will find Top Ten lists, Top 100 lists, and much more.

As I find some value in such lists, I will be posting some of my own Favorite Lists for 2011, covering food, wine, sake and spirits over the next few weeks. These lists should provide a comprehensive summary of the favorite items I have encountered this past year, allowing my readers to more readily locate such gems, my top recommendations.

For my first List of 2011, you will find my Top Ten Wines Under $15. This list includes wines that during the past year I have enjoyed very much and which I also found to be particularly compelling for various reasons. They might be especially delicious, something more unique or just excellent values for the price. They all stand out for some particular reason above the other wines at this price point that I have tasted this past year.

This is a purely subjective list, based on my own preferences, and makes no claims about being the "best" wines out there. It is primarily the wines which spoke to me the loudest, even when they were subtle wines. These are all wines that I strongly recommend and which I believe many other wine lovers will also enjoy.

The wines are not listed in any particular order and each choice is linked to my more detailed prior review. All of these value wines are worth your consideration but please also note that the prices are approximations and the actual price may vary in your area. In addition, some of the wines might not be available in your local area, though you might be able to order them from the winery or an online store, dependent on your state's shipping laws.

1) 2008 Quinta do Encontro Vinho Tinto ($9.99)
This Portuguese wine is made from the Baga grape, which is notoriously tannic, but this lush wine somehow avoids the heavy tannins. It possesses a tiny bit of Merlot but probably not enough to be the main reason why the tannins are tame. Whatever the reason, this is a value wine with plenty of character and intense flavors. Portugal is certainly producing a significant amount of value wines.

2) 2010 Esporão Defesa Rosé ($13.99)
I am a big fan of Rosé, and this Portuguese example, a blend of Syrah and Aragones (Tempranillo) really delivers. It is neither California nor French in style, rather possessed of its own unique identity. Dry, nice red fruit flavors, some complexity, and good acidity all combine in a compelling wine. It would be perfect for the summer, as well as for year round enjoyment. It is also very food friendly.

3) 2010 Casal Garcia Rosé Vinho Verde ($9.99)
Another Portuguese Rosé, this is also a Vinho Verde so it contains a light effervescence. It is a blend of three grapes you may never heard of before: Vinhão, Azal and Borracal. But that shouldn't dissuade you from this tasty and fun wine. With bright red fruit flavors, and a hint of sweetness, this should be very popular with many consumers.

4) 2010 Herdade do Esporão Duas Castas ($12.99)
This third choice from Portugal is white blend of Gouveio and Verdelho, two grapes which once were thought to be the same. It is an easy drinking wine, with an alluring nose, and a delicious taste of melon, tangerine, and pear with a mineral backbone. An excellent wine for seafood dishes, it indicates that Portugal is about more than just Port and red still wines.

5) 2009 Alente White ($9.99)
This is another compelling Portuguese white wine, a blend of Antão Vaz and Arinto, which impresses with its enticing aroma and taste. It has that exotic note which I often associate, and love, with Portuguese wines made from indigenous grapes. For the price, this is an excellent value due to its complexity and character. Plus, it is plain delicious.

6) 2009 Stadlmann Rotgipfler Anninger Classic ($14.99)
As for Austrian grapes, Gruner Veltliner and Zweigelt seem to get most of the publicity. They certainly make good wines, but there are some less common Austrian grapes which are also well worthy of attention. This producer understands this point and that is why they produce wines made from these rarer grapes. This Rotgipfler is an intriguing and tasty wine, that resembles a cross of Gruner and Gewurtztraminer, and one I strongly recommend. A delicious blend of fruit and spice.

7) 2009 Stadlmann Zierfandler Anninger Classic ($14.99)
From the same producer, this wine made from the Zierfandler grape is another worthy recommendation. This wine reminded me of a cross between Gruner and Riesling, and possessed some mild, sweet honey notes, as well as fruit and salty almond flavors. This wine should intrigue even the most jaded of wine lovers, and I want to try this grape from other producers.

8) 2009 Beyerskloof Chenin Blanc/Pinotage ($9.99)
This wine wins the prize for most unique blend I tasted during the past year. I have never seen any other producer blending Chenin Blanc and Pinotage before, and it might seem like an odd combination too many. But this producer successfully combines two of the most notable of South African grapes. Besides some tropical fruit flavors, there are underlying notes of strawberry with some herbal components. You would not guess that it contains Pinotage, but this white wine would remind you in some respects of the flavors you normally find in a red wine. For the price, this is a killer value.

9) 2009 Yellow+Blue Monastrell ($11.99)
For the third year in a row, Yellow+Blue has a wine on this list and this time it is for their newest wine, an organic, Spanish Monastrell, which is also one of my favorite grapes. This wine offers much for its low price, a wine of character and delicious flavors, including ripe plum and blueberry. It is an excellent choice for pairing with hearty meals, from burgers to pasta Bolognese. This producer has been maintaining its high quality, though I am still waiting for them to make a straw for their Tetra Paks.

10) NV Cleto Chiarli Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro Amabile ($13.99)
When I was younger, I drank plenty of cheap Lambrusco and I am sure many others did the same. But, there is plenty of quality Lambrusco out there as well, and this is an inexpensive example of one. I had some of this for Thanksgiving, and it was a big hit. Bubbles, a bit of sweetness, rich red fruit flavors. It is very easy drinking and consumer friendly.

Reviewing my list, I realize that there are no U.S. wines on the list. For me, I usually have an easier time finding value wines elsewhere than in California. Most of the California wines which cost under $15 just don't seem to excite me as much as the same priced wines from elsewhere in the world. I also note that Portuguese wines dominate this list, occupying half of the ten spots. Though there was only one Portuguese wine on the list last year, I attended a few Portuguese wine events this year and found some delicious and exciting value wines. As I tell people often, if you want a good value wine under $10, then choose Portuguese.

Austria made a significant showing, occupying two spots, with two wines, by the same producer, made from less common grapes. Though Austria might not always jump to your mind when you think value wines, it is an overlooked region which you should consider. South Africa, Spain and Italy all occupy a single spot on the list, and you definitely can still find good value wines in these regions. In fact, you can find value wines all over the world, in every region, though some regions provide a greater range and diversity of value wines.

I have other recommendations for wines under $15 on my blog and you just have to search for them. There remain many good buys available in this price range, wines which exceed much of the common plonk out there. It is important to remember that though wine stores sell plenty of wines in this price range, not all of them are of equal value. Wines in this price range do not have to be one-dimensional wines that all taste the same. You can find wines of character and complexity, though you might need to spend a little more time seeking them out.

Wine blogs can help you in that regard, pointing out wines that you might not otherwise know about. Tasting the wines before you buy them is another way to find such values. Or simply ask your trusted wine store owner for advice and suggestions.

If you have some of your own recommendations for excellent wines under $15, please add them to the comments.

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

2011-12-01T04:00:00.019-05:00

I am back again with a new edition of Thursday Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I briefly highlight some interesting wine and food items that I have encountered recently.
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1) The SHADE Foundation of America presents the fifth annual "Bubbles & Bites Gala" at The Ritz Carlton. The SHADE Foundation of America is a non-profit organization that aims to prevent skin cancer through education. The foundation has been dedicated to eradicating melanoma through the education of children and the community in the prevention and detection of skin cancer and the promotion of sun safety since 2002. The Bubbles and Bites Gala is the SHADE Foundation's annual charity event during which guests will spend a festive evening enjoying dishes prepared by Boston's top chefs all the while sipping champagne, enjoying live music, and taking part in a holiday gift silent auction and raffle. This year's music will be provided by Boston's premier band, East Coast Soul.

This year's event, hosted by Curt and Shonda Schilling, will be emceed by Gail Huff (Senator Scott Brown's wife and former Channel 5 reporter). Come support the cause to prevent skin cancer and enjoy a night filled with bubbles in the air and Boston's best bites prepared by chefs: Brian Poe of Poe's Kitchen at the Rattlesnake, Jason Santos of Blue Inc., Dante de Magistris of Restaurant dante, Gianni Caruso of Bricco, Todd Winer of The MET Back Bay, Fabian Ludwig of the Ritz Carlton Boston Common, Armand Toutaint of Turner Fisheries, and Benjamin Knack of The Bedford Village Inn. Salads will be provided by Olivia's Organics and desserts will be created by The Hard Rock Café.

When: Wednesday, December 7, from 6:30pm - 9:00 pm
Where: Ritz Carlton Boston Common, 10 Avery Street, Boston
Cost: Tickets to the event are $150 each, and can be purchased online by visiting www.shadefoundation.org.

2) Chefs Chris Douglass and Nuno Alves of Tavolo have some big plans for the coming months.

Here’ is what’'s currently on the menu:
* The Sicilian Cooler: An Italianate cocktail made with blood orange liqueur
* Grilled Swordfish with preserved lemon risotto and spicy greens
* Pan-Seared Sweet Potato Gnocchi in orange butter
* Short Ribs with Gremolata over polenta with roasted root veggies
* Fennel and Apple Soup with chestnuts
* Braised Stuffed Squid w/ squid ink risotto, saffron-lobster brood

Here’s what’s going on over the next few weeks:

Tuesday, November 29 – and every Tuesday
Live music in the lounge by Ryan Beke from 6 to 9 PM
Wednesday, November 30 @ 7 PM
Pasta Tour travels to Lombardy $20 for three courses: pickled vegetable antipasti with salumi/gorgonzola picante/honey … Polenta Ravioli in Saffron Cream … Biscotti with Crema di Mascarpone
Sunday, December 11 @ 6 PM
A repeat of the previously sold out Progressive Dinner with diners trotting between Tavolo and Ashmont Grill for two courses of food and wine at each location. Costs $60 per person including wine
Saturday, December 17 @ 12 noon
Cooking class in the kitchen with Chris and Nuno, demonstrating how to pull off a gala holiday feast . $60 includes full luncheon with wine.
Friday, December 23
Why stop at The Feast of the Seven Fishes ? Our special, pre-Christmas menu tonight features more than a dozen celebratory, holiday fish and/or seafood dishes, served ala carte.
Saturday/Sunday, December 24/25
Tavolo will be closed.
Saturday, December 31
Tavolo means never having to park in Boston. Enjoy your evening and walk or T it home. Ala carte specials all night.
Upcoming for January 2012:
Private pasta-making classes, for groups of six or more, will be available beginning in January. Learn how to make gnocchi, ravioli, linguini and more. Bring your group to our Dorchester kitchen, or let one of our chefs come to yours. Two hours of hands-on fun; this is a terrific team-building exercise for businesses. Their gluten-free pasta will soon be available.

3) On December 13, at 6:30pm, Legal Sea Foods in Park Square will host the Premier and Grand Cru wine dinner, a four-plus-course affair hosted by renowned wine writer Pierre Rovani. The menu will be presented as follows in the Park Square location’s striking 10,000 bottle wine cellar:

Hors D'Oeuvres
Butter-Poached Sea Scallops, Braised Curried Fennel, Buttery Brioche
Sherry-Braised King Crab Legs Tartlette, Roasted Garlic Aioli
Costa Rican Mahi Mahi Ceviche, Tostones, Lime Crème Fraîche
Paired with Domaine Zind-Humbrecht Riesling “Gueberschwihr,” Alsace, 2007

First Course
Maine Lobster Soup with garden vegetables, croutons
Paired with Domaine Zind-Humbrecht Riesling Grand Cru “Brand,” Alsace, 2007

Second Course
Pistachio and Caper Crusted Salmon with crab meat and herb mousse, preserved lemon and thyme sauce
Paired with Domaine Bernard Moreau Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru “Les Chenevottes,” Burgundy, 2009

Third Course
Roasted Duck Breast with buttermilk yukon gold potatoes, broccolini and mushroom ragout
Paired with Remoissenet Beaune Premier Cru “Grèves,” Burgundy, 2008

Cheese Course
Muenster, Époisses, Langres with fennel, cherry compote and grilled crostini
Paired with Domaine Zind-Humbrecht Pinot Gris Grand Cru “Rangen de Thann,” Clos St.-Urbain, Alsace, 2008

Tedorigawa Yamahai Junmai: Shichimenchou-Zake

2011-11-30T04:00:00.136-05:00

What is Shichimenchou-Zake? Well, I am not sure if it is an actual word or not, but it means "Turkey Sake." The term "shichimenchou" is the Japanese word for "turkey," and literally means "seven-faced or seven-sided bird." I simply added "zake" to the word, which is often done for sake related words. By turkey sake, I meant sake for Thanksgiving.

For Thanksgiving, I opened a number of bottles, ranging from a Lambrusco to a VORS (30+ year old) Oloroso Sherry. I like to have an assortment of wines, something for everyone, as well as enough to last throughout the day. Per my own Thanksgiving wine suggestions, I also opened a bottle of sake, which I have done before for Thanksgiving. I was pleased to see that this year I opened the same sake as the fine folks of Sakaya, Rick and Hiroko.

The Tedorigawa "Silver Mountain" Yamahai Junmai ($33) is produced by the Yoshida Sake Brewery, which is located in the Hokuriku region of the Ishikawa Prefecture, an area well known for excellent rice production. The brewery was founded in 1870 and its water descends from the nearby Mount Hakusan, which is a potentially active volcano. This sake brand is named after the Tedori River ("gawa" means "river"), and it is thought the river obtained its name from the fact people used to cross the river hand in hand due to its rapid flow. One meaning of "tedori" is that it refers to a "braiding method," resembling in some ways the people with their linked hands.

This sake is made from Gohyakumangoku rice, which was polished to 65%, and has an SMV +4 and an Acidity of 1.5. As it is a Yamahai, no lactic acid was added to the yeast starter. Instead, natural lactic acid from the air was allowed to drop into the yeast starter, a process which usually takes twice as long and tends to give an earthy or gamey flavor to the sake. In addition, a Yamahai is generally richer in umami than most other sake types.

I found this sake to be dry and smooth, with only a mild earthy tone and a light tinge of sweetness. It went very well with our turkey, but also was able to stand up to the wild boar roast. It actually did well with our side dishes too, its higher than usual acidity probably helping in that regard. Sure, most people probably don't consider sake for their Thanksgiving dinner but it can be a very good pairing. That is something to keep in mind for Christmas dinner as well, especially if you are having turkey.

I also should briefly mention the Bodegas Sánchez Romate VORS Oloroso, a superb aged sherry which enhanced our Thanksgiving too.