Showing posts with label Argentina Wines. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Argentina Wines. Show all posts

Wednesday, December 11, 2019

Tussock Jumper Wines: Tasty Value Wines

Tussock Jumper WinesA portfolio of wines with animals, wearing red jumpers, on the labels.

As far back as 2008, I wrote about how having animals on wine labels often increases sales, and there were studies explaining the reasons for such. Working at a wine store, I regularly hear customers tell me how they choose a wine because they simply like the label. So why not take advantage by adding cute animals to your label? However, it raises the question, is this merely a gimmick for Tussock Jumper?

According to their website: "All the animals wearing red jumpers on our wines isn’t just a gimmick or a clever branding idea to stand out on the crowded shelves of your local store. It’s more than that. The jumper is a seal of authenticity which is your guarantee that everything has been done to provide you with the finest quality, best tasting wine." The key then is sampling the wine, to assess its taste and quality, and determine whether it is merely a gimmick or not. I recently received several media samples from Tussock and did my own taste testing.

Tussock Jumper Wines was founded by a group of people "with over three decades in the wine business," with an objective of creating "a way for wine lovers to discover the world of wine, all under one label, and at approachable, budget friendly prices." Their wines are sourced from 11 different wine regions, including California, Spain, South Africa, Italy, Argentina, Australia, France, Portugal, Chile, Germany, and New Zealand. They source the grapes for their wines from multiple small farms and vineyards, bottling the wine near the source, to help the local communities.

Their first wine was a Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand, which seems to be the origin of part of their name as well." As their website states, "tussock" is "a tuft-like grass that grows in meadowlands all around the world, but each species is unique to its region. It’s also a nod to our commitment to preserving nature, and sustainable winemaking." Currently, I'm reading a series of novel by a New Zealand, and the term "tussock" is used several times in those books.

Currently, in the U.S. market, Tussock Jumper has 24 wines available, generally priced at under $15 each. These are value wines, everyday drinking wines, but how do they compare to similarly priced wines? Actually, they do quite well. The four wines I sampled were tasty and pleasant, delivering at their price point, and their quality was indicative that they weren't just gimmick wines. You might enjoy the cute animal on the label, but you'll probably also enjoy the wine inside the bottle. Tussock Jumper Wines earn my recommendation.

The 2017 Tussock Jumper Chenin Blanc ($12), from South Africa, was a pleasing white wine, at 13.5% ABV, with crisp acidity, tasty pear and pineapple flavors, an underlying minerality, and a satisfying finish. Lush and delicious! This wine can be enjoyed on its own or paired with food, such as a chicken alfredo, risotto or even lobster.

The 2013 Tussock Jumper Touriga Nacional-Aragonez ($12), from the Alentejo region of Portugal, is a blend of 25% Touriga Nacional & 75% Aragonez, with a 13.5% ABV. About 50% of the wine spent 6 months in French and American oak. This light bodied red wine had lush red fruit flavors, with vanilla and spice notes, and a hint of chocolate on the finish. Portugal usually delivers well at these price points and this wine is no exception.

The 2017 Tussock Jumper Organic Malbec ($14/750ml), from Argentina, partially spent about 3 months in American and French oak. At 13% ABV, this was a bolder wine than many other similarly priced Malbecs, yet the tannins were well integrated and it drank smooth and rich. Lush black fruit flavors, hints of chocolate, and dark spices. This is definitely a wine for a good steak, or a hamburger from the grill.

The 2017 Tussock Jumper Pinot Noir ($13/750ml), from France, at 12% ABV, is also a bolder red wine, with more black cherry and plum notes, vanilla, dark spices, and a touch of almost sweet fruit. This isn't the light bodied Pinot that some might desire, but more a pairing for beef and rich dishes.

These wines are also sold in Single Serving sizes, pictured above, with their own plastic cup, for $3.99 each.

Have you tasted any of the Tussock Jumper wines?

Monday, December 19, 2016

2016: Favorite Wine-Related Items

What were some of my favorite wine related items of the past year?

Let me continue the lists of my best recommendations and favorites of 2016. I have already posted my Top Ten Wines Under $15Top Ten Wines Over $15 and Top Wines Over $50 lists. This post will now concentrate on some of my Favorite Wine-Related Items, which are not specific wine recommendations. This is certainly not a complete list but it is more a sampling of compelling and memorable matters I have experienced and posted about over the past year.

This is also a purely subjective list, based on my own preferences, and makes no claims about being the "best" of anything. But all of the items here have earned my strong recommendations and I hope you will enjoy them as well. For more wine related items, you can just search my blog posts for the past year.

Analysis Of Top Ten Wines: In my three prior Top Ten Wine lists, I mentioned a total of 42 wines, which included wines from 10 different countries. At the top was Spain, with 10 wines (which was in second place last year). Portugal and Italy (which was in first place last year) are tied for second place, with 7 wines. Nearly 60% of my top wines came from just these three countries. Greece and France are tied for third place with with 4 wines. The U.S. has 3 wines, 2 from California and 1 from New York. Georgia and Cyprus each had 2 wines on the lists while Argentina and Slovenia each has 1 wine. As for wine types, the list is also broken down into 5 Sparkling, 12 Whites, 4 Rosé, 13 Reds, 7 Fortified and 1 Dessert Wine. Thirteen of the wines were first tasted at the Boston Wine Expo, where I often find a significant number of intriguing wines.

Favorite Discount Wine Stores: Consumers always want bargains, excellent value wines which won't stretch their wallets. You can buy the cheap, mass-produced commercial wines which can be found in almost any wine store or instead, you can seek out excellent, value wines which put to shame those cheap wines. Certain discount wine stores provide not only excellent prices but also an interesting selection and good service. I want to highlight three such stores which continue to do an especially good job, places where I go to seek bargains: Bin Ends in Braintree & Needham, Wine Connextion in North Andover, and Rapid Liquors in Stoneham (which recently completed a major expansion). Shop at any of those stores and you won't be disappointed.

Favorite Wine Stores: This is a small list of wine stores which consistently impress me with their selection and service. Each shop is worthy of your patronage and wine lovers should make the effort to visit these places if you have not done so yet.
Lower Falls Wine Company in Newton Lower Falls
Wine-Sense in Andover
Wine Bottega in Boston's North End
Central Bottle Wine & Provisions in Cambridge
Wine Press in Brookline
Beacon Hill Wine & Gourmet in Melrose (where I also work part-time)
Streetcar Wines in Jamaica Plain

Favorite Wine Lunch/Dinner: Champagne pairs well with food, but some Champagnes do it better than others. The Champagnes of Besserat de Bellefon are specifically produced to accompany food and lunch at L'Espalier helped to show its excellence with food pairings. The lunch tasting was educational and delicious, fun and informative. Two of the Champagnes also ended up on my Top Ten Wine lists. The secret of its versatility with food is its smaller bubbles, which makes the Champagne taste creamier, more unctuous, and lighter.

Runner-Up Favorite Wine Lunch/Dinners: This category was a tie, between an Italian wine dinner and a Cypriot wine dinner. The Piedmontese Wine Dinner at Osteria Nino presented several killer wines, three which ended up on my Top Ten Wine lists, accompanied by dishes from Gnocchi al Castelmagno e Noci to Bollito di Manzo. A Cypriot Wine Dinner at Committee offered several compelling wines, two which ended up on my Top Ten Wine lists, wines which you rarely see at other restaurants. The tasty cuisine was Cypriot as well, from Eliopites to Koupes. Both wine dinners helped to show how regional wines and cuisines pair well with each other.

Favorite High-End Wine Lunch/Dinner: Argentina would be hard pressed to find a better advocate for their wines than Laura Catena. At a special lunch at Bistro du Midi, Laura Catena shared with us some of the top wines from Bodega Catena Zapata, wines from the famed Adrianna Vineyard. From the White Bones and White Stones Chardonnays to three incredible Malbecs, we learned about this vineyard and its various expressions. The lunch was informative and inspirational, and the wines were stunning. And the food, from Lamb Carpaccio to Flat Iron Steak Frites, was delicious, pairing well with the two Malbecs at the table. One of the Chardonnays from this lunch also ended up on one of my Top Ten Wine lists.

Favorite Regional Wine Tasting: This category was also a tie, between Franciacorta, an Italian Sparkling Wine, and Georgian wines (the country, not the state). At the Wine BottegaJeremy Parzen was Spreading Love For Franciacorta, showcasing 11 wines and helping to give attention to this compelling bubbly. Jeremy is an excellent ambassador for these wines and it made sure the tasting was educational and fun. At Puritan & Co., there was a significant tasting of Georgian wines, which led to my post, Drink More Georgian Wine! Georgian wines can be delicious and intriguing, and it was fascinating to explore more of their wines. And both of these tastings had wines that ended up on my Top Ten Wine lists this year.

Favorite Large-Scale Tasting: This year, this award goes to the Boston Wine Expo, a huge consumer wine event. Thirteen wines from this event ended up on my Top Ten Wine lists. It has its issues, primarily due to the large crowds that attend, but there are ways to maximize your wine exploration and enjoyment, from attending the Seminars to focusing your tasting on certain regions and/or wine styles. Early next month, I'll be posting my suggestions and advice for attending the Expo, which should help to improve your experience. Check here for tickets for the 2017 Boston Wine Expo,

Favorite Private Wine Tasting: My good friend Adam, of Wine Zag, hosts a monthly blind tasting event which is always fun and interesting. There haven't been many tastings this past year due to a number of circumstances but it remains my favorite private event. A group of 15-18 people are assembled, and we taste through about twelve wines, usually with some type of theme. From Champagne to Southern Italian reds, the themes range wide and the wines themselves range in price and style. The attendees include wine newcomers and more knowledgeable tasters, but there is a lack of pretension and the casual atmosphere is one of fun and discovery. This is the fifth year in a row this tasting has garnered this honor. The house has changed, allowing a more intimate event.

Favorite Wine Travel Event: This past June, I attended TasteCamp Vermont, exploring the food and drink or Vermont. TasteCamp is always one of my favorite events as a small group of wine writers get together to explore a wine region, though the event has expanded to include additional alcoholic beverages as well. Vermont is a compelling destination, with delicious and interesting drinks from Hard Cider to Maple Syrup Beverages. There are a number of excellent Distilleries, producing wonders such as Barrel-Aged Gin. And I actually have more to write about this experience so look forward to more info about the delights of Vermont.

Favorite Wine Rant: Is wine simply a luxury, relatively unimportant? In one of my rants, I tried to answer the question, Wine Is Just Fermented Grape Juice? In one respect, it is just fermented grape juice, but there are other levels involved as well. Wine can be important, a key to bringing people together, creating friendships, and prolonging those friendships. Take a look at my Rant and think about its contents. Maybe you will see wine through a different lens.

What were some of your favorite wine-related items this year?

Friday, October 28, 2016

Laura Catena: Aiming High With Argentina's Wine Advocate

Argentina would be hard pressed to find a better advocate for their wines than Laura Catena. She is intelligent and passionate, personable and lively. In addition, she has one foot in the past, delving into the history of wine and Malbec, and one foot in the future, researching and studying a wide variety of wine-related matters. Her passion for the wines of Argentina is infectious.

I first met Laura five years ago, at Bodega Catena Zapata in Mendoza, Argentina, and then saw her again at a recent, media wine tasting and luncheon at Bistro du Midi in Boston. After the passage of those five years, Laura's passion for the wines of Argentina hadn't dimmed even the slightest. If anything, it might have even grown some, possibly due to the results of the experiments and research that have been conducted during those past five years.

At the recent tasting, one of the most moving moments came during lunch, amidst more casual talk about children, colleges and video games. As a bit of background, Nicola Catena, Laura's great-grandfather, came to Argentina, from Italy, in 1898, and planted vineyards in 1902, with Malbec being one of his first vines. Nicola was a handsome man, enamored with having his picture taken, and Laura is especially fond of one of those family photos, showing Nicola with his six children. It was only recently that Laura learned something from her father, Nicolás, that has caused her to look at that family photo in a much different way.

When Nicola passed away, he left the winery to his sons but left nothing for his daughters, figuring a husband would provide for them. Those were certainly very different times, and if Laura had been born during that time, she probably never would have started working at the winery. This would have been a great loss to Bodega Catena Zapata, and the wine industry in general. She also might not have not become a physician.

This was an unsettling revelation to Laura, but also shows how far society has progressed during the last hundred years. There certainly is need for continued progress in this respect and Laura is a shining example of the benefits of such progress. Nowadays, there are numerous women involved in the wine industry, contributing significantly to its success, but more women still are needed. Women thinking about entering the wine industry can look to Laura Catena as a positive role model.

One of Nicola's sons was Domingo, born in 1910, and he eventually married Angelica Zapata in 1934. Domingo and Angelica were the parents of Nicolás Catena Zapata, Laura'a father. Angelica was the head mistress of a local school and was very much the intellectual mentor of Nicolás. When he was 18 years old, he was undecided whether he should get in the family winery business. He had an interest in physics and asked Angelica for advice on what he should do. She didn't like business and recommended he pursue physics, seeking to win a Nobel Prize. Quite a goal for such a young man.

The lesson is illustrative of the Catena legacy of aiming high. Though Nicolás ultimately didn't get into physics, ending up in the winery business, his goals always remained lofty, to make some of the best wine in the world. It wasn't enough to seek to make the best wine in Argentina. He had to make world-class wine, to be able to compete with the best from any other wine region. That legacy has clearly extended to Laura, who also is driven to produce some of the best wine in the world.

In addition, the story of Angelica and Nicolás is also illustrative of another point which Laura feels is very important, that women should mentor men and that men should mentor women. This mentoring probably helped her father be willing to place the future of the winery in Laura's hands.

When Laura was younger, she didn't have any intention of getting into the family winery. She wanted to become a doctor, eventually achieving that goal. While she was attending school, her father gave her a credit card to use to purchase wine and good glassware. She tasted many high-end wines, which were far more affordable at the time, so she acquired much wine experience and knowledge. As she spoke French fluently, her father asked her to accompany him on wine trips to France. As time passed, Laura's passion for wine grew and her decision to join the family winery might have been sealed in New York.

Laura attended the New York Wine Experience on behalf of Bodega Catena Zapata, which was the first South American winery ever to be invited to this event. She became frustrated as so many people just passed by her booth without stopping to taste the wines. She saw this as a personal challenge; how do you get people excited about the wine of Argentina? This led her to see a greater role at the winery, and Nicolás was more than happy to have her involved, letting her take over any aspect she so desired.

As her father has said to her, "You got the rebel in you."

The centerpiece of the tasting event was an examination of the Adrianna Vineyard, a South american "Grand Cru" which is claimed to be the most studied vineyard in the world. Planted in 1992-1996, the vineyard is located at an elevation of close to 5000 feet. The area is of alluvial formation, the site of a former dried river bed and consists of stripes of different soils. The above map is the first time this map has been revealed, indicating 11 different marked lots, and showing where their Adrianna wines are sourced. This is a cool climate vineyard and in some respects, the choice of this location was due to luck, though tempered by their experience.

Bodega Catena Zapata is all about research and scientific experimentation, trying to better understand terroir and the reasons why some wines are greater than others. For example, there are currently no known studies about the reasons why limestone is good for vines, so they have undergone their own study, using Malbec vines, to try to resolve this issue. There are plenty of theories, but they all lack sufficient evidence. In addition, they are conducting studies on the nature of the microbes in soil. They are even collaborating with European scientists on wine studies.

Laura mentioned that "We use science to perceive nature not to change it." All of her research is directed to this objective, not to find a way to manipulate the grapes and wine, but to find out the best way to express the grapes in the wine. It is more about understanding not seeking ways to exploit the grape. A very worthy goal.

We tasted five different wines from the Adrianna Vineyard, including two Chardonnays and three Malbecs. All five of these high-quality wines are intended to reflect the different terroirs of this vineyard, and the Malbecs have never been available in the U.S. before. These wines are indicative of the potential of Argentina, presenting wines that can compete against the best wines from around the world. These are pricey, splurge wines, which will age well in your cellar or impress your friends when you share a glass with them.

As for the two Chardonnays, they produce under 400 cases and Laura noted that they are popular in Argentina. Both Chardonnays are fermented in 2nd and 3rd use French, though even a small amount of new oak wouldn't adversely affect these wines. Laura also stated that "high end Chardonnay is for thinking."

The 2013 Catena Zapata White Bones Chardonnay ($125) comes from a 2.6 hectare lot, at an elevation of 4757 feet, in the Adrianna Vineyard. The lot has a shallow topsoil with calcareous deposits of marine fossils and rocks covered with calcareous. The wine is called White Bones cause it looks like there are bones in the soil. It is produced from 100% Chardonnay, with about two-thirds undergoing malolactic fermentation, and is aged in French oak for about 12-16 months.

It is an impressive wine, likely to bring to mind a beautiful Chablis. It is bright and crisp, with a delicious and complex melange of citrus, pear, apple, mineral notes, and a hint of saltiness. It is medium-bodied with a long and pleasing finish. This is a wine that aches for seafood, from oysters to scallops, an elegant wine that you should slowly sip and enjoy. This was my personal favorite of the two Chardonnays.

The 2013 Catena Zapata White Stones Chardonnay ($95) comes from a 2.2 hectare lot, at an elevation of 4757 feet, in the Adrianna Vineyard. The lot has no topsoil and plenty of rocks covered with calcareous. The wine is called White Stones because of all the white rocks on the surface, which make the soil a bit warmer than other lots in the vineyard. It is produced from 100% Chardonnay, with about two-thirds undergoing malolactic fermentation, and is aged in French oak for about 12-16 months.

This is also an impressive wine though it might remind you more of a Montrachet. This is a more full-bodied wine, with a pleasing creaminess and ripe apple and pear flavors as well as hints of baking spice and vanilla. There is good acidity, less minerality and the finish lingers for a very long time, satisfying our palate.

The next three wines are all cool climate Malbec, which possess more acidity and will age well. On the other hand, warmer climate Malbec tends to be more jammy. Malbec is not a high yielding grape and it is susceptible to frost, which makes growing it at higher elevations a riskier endeavor. It is also a delicate grape so you cannot do a long maceration as you would with Cabernet Sauvignon.

Laura is fascinated about the unanswered questions behind the origin of Malbec. It is known Malbec extends back at least to the Middle Ages and eventually was reborn in Argentina. However, she wants to know its complete origins and history, and has been doing some historical research seeking those answers. She believes that "wine history is the future," and I agree with the importance of history in assisting the understanding of grapes and wine.

A common question that Laura receives, and which is probably asked of many Argentina producers, is "What comes after Malbec?" In some ways, it is an insulting question, implying the assumption that Malbec isn't a worthy grape, that it is merely a stepping stone to "better" grapes. Why should that be the case? As Laura put it, "you wouldn't ask a Burgundy producer what comes after Pinot Noir." Malbec can certainly produce world class wine and as Laura says, "stand by your grape." The three Malbecs from the Adrianna Vineyard are examples of the potential of Malbec, and should be able to silence those critics who don't see Malbec as a worthy grape.

In describing these three Malbecs, Laura stated that they "taste big but are still elegant and delicate." I would agree with her characterization, feeling that these wines possess much in common with fine Bordeaux, especially those Merlot based ones which have less tannins. Each possessed its own uniqueness though their commonalities united them in certain respects too. They are all still young and probably would benefit from being set aside for a time to age more.

The first Malbec was the 2012 Catena Zapata Adrianna Vineyard Fortuna Terrae ($136) which comes from a 5 hectare lot, at an elevation of 4482 feet, in the Adrianna Vineyard. The lot has two feet of topsoil, with 1/2 foot of limestone and rocks covered with calcareous. The wine is called Fortuna Terra which means "luck of the earth."

The second Malbec was the 2012 Catena Zapata Adrianna Vineyard River Stones ($160) which comes from a 1.4 hectare lot, at an elevation of 4560 feet, in the Adrianna Vineyard. The lot has one foot of topsoil and rocks covered with calcareous. The soil is similar to that in the lot for the White Stones, though this lot has poorer soil.

The last Malbec was the 2011 Catena Zapata Adrianna Vineyard Mundus Bacillus Terrae ($350) which comes from a 1.4 hectare lot, at an elevation of 4560 feet, in the Adrianna Vineyard. The lot has two feet of topsoil, calcareous deposits of marine fossils, and rocks covered with calcareous. The name Mundus Bacillus Terrae means "elegant microbes of the earth."

In general, all three wines were complex and intriguing, elegant and muscular, the type of wines you sit and ponder. They shared flavors of black fruits and spice, with good acidity, some minerality, and lengthy finishes. My personal favorite of the three was the River Stones, as it appealed to my palate the most, though I enjoyed all three of them. 

With the holidays approaching, these are the type of wines worth the splurge. 

After the tasting of the 5 Adrianna Vineyard wines, we enjoyed a pleasant lunch, accompanied by two additional wines. The first was the 2013 Catena Alta Historic Rows Malbec ($60), an inky dark wine with plenty of complexity and a luxurious taste, a hedonistic pleasure of black fruits, ripe plum, low tannins, good acidity, and some subtle spice notes. An excellent wine which I would highly recommend. Will be a nice accompaniment to meat and game. The other wines was the 2010 Nicolas Catena Zapata ($135), a blend of 75% Cabernet Sauvignon and 25% Malbec. It was a bigger, more muscular wine, but still possessed of its own elegance.

My lunch began with the superb Lamb Carpaccio, with a cured egg yolk, castelvetrano olive, and rice crisps. The venison was silky smooth, with a rice, meaty flavor and went well with the Malbec. I easily could have devoured several dishes of this lamb.

My entree was a Flat Iron Steak Frites, with a truffle vinaigrette, and the beef was tender and flavorful, with nice crisp fries. It took went very well with the Malbec, as well as the Blend. Bistro du Midi never disappoints me when it comes to their cuisine.

Laura's story, and that of Bodega Catena Zapata, is compelling on many levels. It is an inspirational tale for all, although especially women, and the lesson of aiming high resonates for all of us. Other wine regions can also benefit from the example of this winery. Argentina is already well known with many consumers for inexpensive Malbec wines, as well as Torrontes and Bonarda. It is time that consumers also learn that Argentina can produce some amazing higher-end wines too, such as Malbec and Chardonnay. Its wines can compete with other high-end wines from all across the world.

Kudos to Laura Catena, who has the rebel in her.

Thursday, October 6, 2016

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I am back again with a new edition of Thursday Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting, upcoming food & drink events.
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1) On Tuesday, October 18, at 6:30pm, Legal Harborside will host a four-plus-course wine dinner with Laura Catena, owner of Catena Zapata. Located in picturesque Argentina, Catena Zapata is a family-owned winery distinguished by its pyramid-like design based on Mayan architecture. Founded in 1902 and owned today by Nicolás Catena and his daughter Laura, Catena Zapata is known as the prestigious pioneer of fine wine from Argentina and Nicolás is recognized as the vintner who revolutionized wine quality in Argentina.

The menu will be presented as follows:

HORS D’OEUVRES
Crispy Shicken Rillettes, Buttermilk
Shrimp & Corn Chowder
Uni Blini, Gold Sturgeon Caviar
Duck Crackling Cake, Bucheron
Catena Alta Chardonnay, Mendoza, 2014
FIRST COURSE
Butter Poached Monkfish (white cranberry & almond gremolata, pommel anna)
Catena “Adrianna Vineyard” Whites Stones Chardonnay, Gualtallary, 2012
Catena “Adrianna Vineyard” Whites Bones Chardonnay, Gualtallary, 2012
SECOND COURSE
Lamb Merguez Sausage (sumac vol-au-vent, roasted olive jam, mustard greens)
Catena Zapata “Argentino” Malbec, Mendoza, 2011
Catena Zapata “Argentino” Malbec, Mendoza, 2010
THIRD COURSE
Rib Eye Steak (white bean romesco, chanterelle mushroom, vincotto)
Nicolás Catena Zapata, Mendoza, 2011
CHEESE COURSE
Cypress Grove Lamb Chopper (brillat-savarin)
Catena Zapata “Adrianna Vineyard” Malbec, Gualtallary, 2004
Catena Zapata “Adrianna Vineyard” Malbec, Gualtallary, 2010

COST: $135 per person (excludes tax & gratuity)
Reservation required by calling 617-530-9470

2) Puritan & Co. Chef/Owner Will Gilson, Wine Director Peter Nelson and the restaurant’s talented team welcome Croatian native Dragica “Dee” King, one of the USA’s first importers of Croatian wine, as their guest of honor at upcoming winemaker dinner.

On Wednesday, October 19th, at 6:45pm, Puritan and Co. will host a special wine dinner featuring increasingly popular wines from Croatia. The evening’s dinner will be led by Croatian native Dragica “Dee” King, one of the USA’s first importers of Croatian wine. Dee is passionate about her homeland and its wines and offers a unique understanding of a burgeoning wine culture.

Along with complementary dishes prepared by Chef Will Gilson and conversation about Croatian wine varietals, guests will be treated to pours of a selection of wines from the Dalmation coast in the south to Istria in the north. Many of these wines are only available here in Massachusetts due to their limited production.

Featured pours will include:
2015 Zlatan Otok Bogdanuša, Hvar Island

2015 Vina Benvenuti Malvazija Itarska, Istra

2015 Zlatan Otok Pošip, Hvar Island

2012 Vina Benvenuti Teran, Istra

2011 Zlatan Otok Plavac Mali, Hvar Island

2010 Vina Skarmuča Plavac Mali, Dingač

Cost: Tickets are $95 plus tax and gratuity
For reservations, please call (617)-615-6195.
Note: Due to the limited number of seats, we will require a $30 deposit per person. We will call on Saturday, October 15 to confirm. If the reservation is cancelled after that time, and we are unable to reserve the space, a Puritan & Co. gift certificate will be issued in the amount of the deposit.

3) On Saturday, October 29, Bar Boulud, Boston, located at Mandarin Oriental, Boston, will host A Parisian Affair - a Brunches of Boston event featuring the critically-acclaimed musical, “An American in Paris.”

Beginning at 11:30am, in the restaurant’s sunlit lounge, Chef de Cuisine Michael Denk and Pastry Chef Robert Differ will showcase a French-inspired two-course brunch menu that will feature French favorites and Parisian classics. A gift bag packed with locally-sourced goodies will also be included courtesy of Brunches of Boston.

Post brunch enjoy a complimentary ride, courtesy of Fasten, to the nearby Citi Performing Arts Center Wang Theater for a 2pm matinee performance of “An American in Paris.” This Tony award-winning musical features George Gershwin favorites like “I’ve Got Rhythm” and tells the story about an American soldier, a mysterious French girl, and an indomitable European city, each yearning for a new beginning in the aftermath of war.

Bar Boulud’s “A Parisian Affair” brunch menu will be served as follows:

To Start (choice of one)
Pumpkin Doughnuts (Apple cider glaze)
Cinnamon Walnut Coffee Cake (Chantilly cream)
Main Course (choice of one)
Pain Perdu (Apple caramel, vanilla Chantilly cream) DB Lox Sandwich (Smoked salmon, bagel, avocado, capers, onion, mixed greens)
Croquet Madame (House-made ham, gruyère cheese, béchamel, toasted white bread, sunnyside up egg and French fries)

COST: Tickets are available for $155-$175 per person. To purchase tickets, please visit: Eventbrite.com - https://www.eventbrite.com/e/a-parisian-affair-tickets-27054062429

MORE INFO: Each ticket includes a two-course seated brunch menu served with fresh drip coffee at Bar Boulud, Boston and a ticket to the same day 2pm matinee performance of “An American in Paris.” Transportation between Bar Boulud and the Citi Wang Theater will be provided by Fasten and all guests will receive a complimentary gift bag full of locally-sourced goodies. Additional alcoholic and non-alcoholic beverages are not included in the ticket price.

Friday, September 9, 2016

2013 Antigal Winery & Estates UNO Malbec: Dark & Brooding

 "Malbec should express place, not the grape.”
--Jose Zuccardi of Familia Zuccardi

Malbec is the signature red grape of Argentina, and the grape which has brought much fame to the region. Known by numerous other names, such as Auxerrois, Côt Noir and Pressac, Malbec was first introduced into Argentina in the mid-19th century, prior to phyollexera. The cuttings came from the Bordeaux region of France, not Cahors, the French region most known for its Malbec. Argentina possesses plenty of old vines of Malbec, including some over 100 years old. It is currently their most planted grape, and there are about 22 recognized clones of Malbec.

Malbec can often be characterized as having an intense dark color, aromas and flavors of cherry, plum and strawberry, and soft tannins. However, Malbec is not a singular grape, and can express itself in many different profiles, especially due to terroir. Malbec has the potential to age well, and pairs well with meats, pastas, pizza, and other foods. Until the early 1990s, Argentina mainly used Malbec as a blending grape, but then they began creating single varietal wines, discovering its great potential. Numerous low cost Malbec wines started to get exported and wine consumers embraced them, helping to put Argentina on the international wine map.

Wineries have started to concentrate on terroir, a sense of place, in producing their Malbecs. They have found that Malbec presents many different expressions dependent upon the terroir. Some wineries, like Altos Las Hormigas, feel the soil is the most important element of Malbec terroir while others, like Bodega Catena Zapata, feel that altitude is the key. Experimentation and research continue into this issue, and it is the future of the wines of Argentina. Though you will continue to find inexpensive Malbec wines, you will begin to see more and more higher-end Malbecs, those indicative of terroir.

The Antigal Winery & Estates is located in Russell, Maipú, the site of a historic winery that dates back to 1897. Founded by the Peiro family, they bought vineyards in the Tupungato region of the Uco Valley. Antigal possesses a state-of-the-art facility, with a gravity-flow platform system and the capacity to produce 1.2 million liters of wine. The winery has both stainless steel tanks and concrete vats, the the concrete specifically designed for fermenting small amounts of wine so they can concentrate on specific representations of their grapes.

I received a media sample of the 2013 Antigal Uno Malbec ($18), which is produced from 100% Malbec, has a 13.9% ABV, and spent 8-10 months in French and American oak. This was a dark and brooding wine, an elegantly muscular wine that yearns to join a hearty steak, grilled meats or even a hearty pasta dish. With a dark red color, the nose presents pleasing black fruit aromas, accented by mild spice and herbal notes. On the palate, it is big and bold, yet the velvety tannins are well integrated. There are rich and juicy flavors of ripe plum and blackberry with intriguing hints of spice and savory herbs. This isn't a simple and easy drinking Malbec but rather one with more import, a Malbec intended for food pairing. It is delicious, complex and reasonably priced for its quality.

There's still time for some backyard grilling, and the 2013 Antigal Uno Malbec would serve you well.

Monday, November 16, 2015

No Rant: Only Llamas

The last few days have seen some terrible tragedies and atrocities, from Paris to Beirut, where so many innocents have been murdered. So, today isn't appropriate for a Rant. Today, you'll find only Llama photos, which I hope will bring a little bit of joy into your life.



















(These llama pics were all taken at the Alma Negra Winery in Argentina.)

Thursday, March 26, 2015

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I am back again with a new edition of Thursday Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting, upcoming food & drink events.. **********************************************************
1)  Tavern Road will soon be turning two years old and it's time to celebrate. On Tuesday, March 31, starting at ^:30pm, the restaurant is throwing a birthday bash, complete with guest chefs, a six-course menu and an after party (which starts at 11pm).

A few of the highlights of Chef Louis DiBiccari's street food inspired menu include:
--Grilled chicken and black truffle skewers with potato and shallots
--Spicy raw beef lettuce wrap with chili-lime spicy peanuts
--Vegetarian beans and puffed rice with fried chickpea vermicelli and chutney, finished with steamed and fried sausage

Guest Chefs:
Ashley Abodeely of NoMad Hotel, NYC
Chris Gould of Central Provisions, Portland ME
Matthew Gaudet of West Bridge, Cambridge
Alex Crabb of ASTA, Boston
Jiho Kim of The Modern, NYC

Cost: $85 per person; tickets available for purchase on Eventbrite https://www.eventbrite.com/e/tavern-road-turns-2-a-guest-chef-anniversary-dinner-tickets-15945471334

2) Bob’s Clam Hut is hitting the road, leaving Kittery’s US 1 for One Kendall Square in their first-ever pop-up event at Belly Wine Bar in Cambridge. Belly’s patio will be transformed into a Cambridge-style clam shack experience with Bob’s serving up seafood favorites fresh out of the fryer alongside wine selections from Belly’s Liz Vilardi (a snappy summer white and the 2015 debut of a rare Txakoli) and Narragansett Beer’s summer brews.

Ticket includes the choice of Bob’s Clam Roll, Oyster Roll or Lobster Roll and one of these cold adult beverages
· Narragansett Summer Ale
· Haut Marine Côtes de Gascogne
· Trabanco Astirian Cider

Available for purchase:
· Clam Roll - $14
· Oyster Roll - $14
· Lobster Roll - $14
· Hand Breaded Onion Rings - $6
· Clam Chowder - $6
· Trabanco Astirian Cider - $6/glass
· Haut Marine Cotes de Gascogne - $7/glass
· Narragansett Summer Ale - $5/can
· Ameztoi Txakolina Rosado (2015 season debut!) - $13/pint
· Maine Beer Co. Peeper Ale - $8/pint

WHEN: Thursday, April 30, 5pm-9pm. This is a rain or shine event.
PRICE: $19/person includes choice of Bob’s Roll (Clam Roll, Oyster Roll, Lobster Roll) along with choice of glass of wine, cider or beer; additional food and drink available a la carte. Please remember to tip your server.
TICKETS: everyBELLYwantsBOBS.eventbrite.com

3)  On April 4, at 2pm, Brass Union will host the fifth annual Music vs. Cancer event to benefit the Dana-Farber Cancer Institute. For the first time, Brass Union will feature live music entertainment provided by B3 Kings, a Boston-bred funk and jazz band, in addition to other acts and deejays. Brass Union will dish out complimentary appetizers and there will be a silent action, door prize and a 50/50 raffle. For those looking to get their game on, there will be a charity shuffleboard tournament.

Brass Union’s Music Curator, Jeff Wallace, will be spearheading the fundraiser. Wallace’s mother, Eileen, is a breast cancer survivor who has been cancer-free for 11 years. A cause close to everyone’s hearts, the donations will help supplement Eileen’s fundraising initiatives for Dana-Farber Cancer Institute as she prepares to run her 6th Boston Marathon.

COST: $10 onsite donation to the Dana-Farber Cancer Institute

4) On Wednesday, April 15, at 7pm, guests will take a virtual culinary wine tour of Argentina at Beacon Hill Hotel & Bistro’s spring wine dinner. Designed to both educate and entertain, Beacon Hill Hotel & Bistro’s (BHHB) wine dinners are aimed at individuals of all experience levels. This event is about “wonderful wines, creative food and good friends,” says Cecilia Rait, proprietress and wine director of the BHHB.

Beginning at 7pm, diners are invited to visit all four regions without leaving the comfort of their seats. Cecilia and Tracy Burgis of M.S. Walker act as virtual tour guides, moving from region to region expanding the history, curiosities and nuances of each selection. During this educational dinner guests will sample wines from regions across Argentina. In addition to the wines, the dinner will showcase the culinary artistry of BHHB’s Executive Chef Lucas Sousa, whose dishes are designed to complement each featured wine.

This intimate adventure is set in communal seating to encourage conversation, laughter and fun. For $65 per person (tax and gratuity not included), guests are treated to four wines, a four-course dinner and Cecilia's and Tracy's good cheer, humor and expertise. Reservations are encouraged as the event will sell out fast.

COST: $65 Per Person (tax and gratuity not included),
Reservations are necessary. Please call 617-723-7575.

5) Pastoral Chef/Owner Todd Winer invites guests to learn authentic Italian cooking techniques during his Todd Teaches cooking classes which will take place monthly on designated Sundays.

The next Todd Teaches Sunday School class in April will take place on Sunday, April 19 from 4pm- 5:30pm and the first theme is Meatball Madness. Students will learn the basics behind making meatballs. The class is $40 per person and includes wine, samples of the finished dishes, and recipe cards to take home. Space is limited and can be reserved by logging onto Eventbrite.com.

Monthly classes will take place on select Sundays and upcoming themes include:
--Cooking With Mama- May 10th
--Vegetables Steal the Show- June 14th
--Fish Feast- Italian fish prepared in Neapolitan style
--Knife Skills- how to properly carve poultry, filet fish, chopping vegetables
--Italian Casseroles- Learn how to make Lasagna, Mac and Cheese & Eggplant Parmesan

For more information and reservations, please call (617) 345-0005 or visit www.eventbrite.com.

6) Bergamot Chefs Keith Pooler and Dan Bazzinotti along with Beverage Director Kai Gagnon and GM Servio Garcia celebrate Bergamot’s five year anniversary by bringing back the opening menu for two weeks. You can enjoy a prix-fixe format with three courses for $44 which includes a selection of an appetizer, entrée and dessert from the original menu when Bergamot debuted on April 1, 2010. The two week period starts April 1, 2015 and continues to April 15.

The original menu includes:
Appetizers
Sunchoke Bisque
Duck, Duck, Duck
Fresh Sardines
Pea Green Salad
Baby Roasted Beets
Tuna Carpaccio
Pan-Seared Quail
Chilled Maine Shrimp Salad
Entrees
Pan-Seared Monkfish Medallions
Roasted Lamb Loin
Egg-Battered East Coast Halibut
Braised Rabbit Leg
Pork Tenderloin
Grilled Flat Iron Steak
Pan-Seared Sea Scallops
Herb Roasted Giannone Chicken
Desserts
Meyer Lemon Steamed Pudding
Pistachio Baklava
Carrot Cake
Guajillo Chili Chocolate Pave

For reservations, please call 617-576-7700.

7) Since 2009, Alpine Restaurant Group has been an integral part of Davis Square with three restaurants that put a playful, contemporary spin on global flavors. This spring, Posto, The Painted Burro and Rosebud American Kitchen & Bar will extend their influence beyond their dining rooms and into guests’ kitchens with monthly classes teaching how to recreate signature menu items from each restaurant at home. The interactive classes offer attendees of all skill levels a unique peek inside some of Davis’ top restaurants and the opportunity to learn firsthand from Joe Cassinelli, Alpine Restaurant Group’s Founder and Executive Chef of The Painted Burro and Posto, and John Delpha, Chef/Partner of Rosebud, while spending a Saturday afternoon cooking (and eating) up a storm.

The topics include:

Derby-Day Eats at Rosebud American Kitchen & Bar
April 25 at 3PM, $55
As the unofficial kickoff to spring, the Kentucky Derby not only means oversized hats and racehorses, but a reason to bust out the grill and Julep cups for al fresco celebrating. To help ease the transition from winter stews to smoked meats, John Delpha will give guests an in-depth lesson on proper brining procedures and how to make the perfect smoked pork chops at home. All followed by a well-deserved demo on building a classic Mint Julep – a seasonal must-have for backyard cookouts and Derby-themed celebrations.

Festive Summer Dishes at The Painted Burro
May 16 at 3PM, $55
Joe Cassinelli will transport guests to the Mexican border, no passports required, with interactive instruction on crafting superb guacamole, salsa, fresh tortillas and fish tacos – the perfect way to prep guests for a Memorial Day weekend bash. After taking the heat in the kitchen, guests will drink in a lesson on mixing the Burro’s signature margaritas at-home.

Summer Entertaining Basics at Posto
June 20 at 3PM, $55
Italian hospitality comes to Davis Square as Joe Cassinelli leads guests through an engaging class covering simple summer dishes that are perfect for attendees’ next soiree. The class will focus on shareable dishes like traditional bruschetta, wood-fired pizzas and, of course, batched sangria.

BBQ 101 at Rosebud American Kitchen & Bar
July 18 at 3PM, $55
With backyard cookout season in full-swing, John Delpha will provide guests a hands-on lesson covering all things BBQ – from the basics of grill maintenance to proper meat prep and more. Guests will also learn how to grill up the perfect flatbread and concoct a refreshing Blackberry Bourbon Smash – sure to be a hit at their next cookout.

Holding on to the Flavors of Summer at The Painted Burro
August 22, 2015, 3PM, $55
With summer coming to a close, Joe Cassinelli will help guests savor the remainders of the season by teaching them to recreate the restaurant’s ceviches and whole fish Veracruzana at home. A tutorial on Paloma cocktails – a zippy blend of grapefruit and tequila – caps off the late-summer feast.

TICKETS: Classes can be purchased a la carte for $55 or in a package of two ($100), three ($150), four ($200) or all five ($250), available at https://www.eventbrite.com/e/in-the-kitchen-with-alpine-restaurant-group-tickets-16252563856.
INFO: For more information, call 617-776-0005.

8) Starting April 1st, Chef Louie DiBiccari’s internationally inspired TR Street Foods concept will cross the border from annexed fast-casual space to the restaurant’s main dining room. The new dinner menu is dominated by playful yet sophisticated plates that riff on classic street food flavors. Prepared with finesse and thoughtfully presented, these distinctive dishes are meant to be shared with friends and best paired with cocktails created especially for the occasion.

Menu highlights include:
· Porchetta Flatbread with broccolini, charmoula, fried egg ($12)
· TR Hot Dog with French’s mustard, shaved onion, relish ($10)
· Lamb Meatball Shwarma, Arugula, Cucumber, Yogurt, Harissa ($16)
· Crab Dumplings, Ramen Broth, Mushrooms, Scallions ($14)

WHEN: April 1st – April 30
COST: Vegetable: $5 to $12; Fish: $6-$22; Meat: $8-$24

Wednesday, December 10, 2014

2014: Top Ten Wines Over $50

What were some of my favorite wines of the past year?

Welcome to my third, and last, Top Wines List. I have already posted my Top Ten Wines Under $15 and Top Ten Wines Over $15. It is now time for my Top Wines Over $50.  Though I've tasted more than ten wines over $50 during the past year, I've only chosen to list those which were especially fascinating.

Like the prior lists, this list includes wines that not only did I enjoy, but which I also found to be particularly compelling for various reasons. They might be especially delicious, something more unique or just excellent values for the price. They all stand out, for some particular reason, above the other wines at this price point that I have tasted this past year.

This is a purely subjective list, based on my own preferences, and makes no claims about being the "best" wines out there. It is primarily the wines which spoke to me the loudest, even when they were subtle wines. These are all wines that I highly recommend and which I believe many other wine lovers will also enjoy.

The wines are not listed in any particular order and each choice is linked to my more detailed prior review. All of these value wines are worth your consideration but please also note that the prices are approximations and the actual price may vary in your area. In addition, some of the wines might not be available in your local area, though you might be able to order them from the winery or an online store, dependent on your state's shipping laws.

1) 2005 Domaine Potinet-Ampeau Volnay 1er Cru 'Clo des Chenes' ($85)
This wine was a marvel from my first sniff of its aromas, a killer melange of earth and fruit, promising the best of French Burgundy. It too was elegant and ethereal, with a blend of complex flavors that seduced my palate. Each sip seemed to bring something different and the flavors seemed to last forever. A most impressive wine which is going to please any Burgundy lover. Brought in by Elden Selection, they have a great Burgundy portfolio and it is well worth checking out their other wines too.

2) 2001 Chateau Musar Blanc ($70)
This Lebanese white wine, made from two indigenous grapes, Obaideh and Merwah, is fermented in French oak barriques for 9 months. It's then bottled but not released until 7 years after harvest. It is a slightly oxidized style, and I loved it. More full bodied, it possessed a complex melange of flavors which intrigued my palate. Notes of honey and apricot, smoke and caramel, citrus and pear. Each sip seemed to bring new flavors to mind, and it evolved over the course of the dinner, getting more intriguing as the night went on. Highly recommended.

3) 2012 Sadie Family Die Ouwingerdreeks Soldaat ($54.99)
A South African wine from the Swartland region, this wine is made from 100% Grenache Noir, reminding me of some Rhône wines. The bold fruit flavors, from cherry to strawberry, were enhanced by spicy & earthy notes. It seemed both fresh and mature, an interesting dichotomy which made this a fascinating and delicious wine. Restrained tannins, a lengthy finish, and nice acidity make this another wine I highly recommend.

4) 2011 Artesana Tannat-Zinfandel-Merlot ($50+)
Though not yet available in the U.S., I eagerly await its entry. This Uruguayan wine, a blend of 55% Tannat, 25% Zinfandel and 20% Merlot, spent 24 months in French oak and only 130 cases were produced. The harmonious complexity of this wine was superb, and the restrained tannins made this wine even more compelling. There was so much going on in this wine, and all of it was pleasing and delicious.

5) 2011 Marichal Grand Reserve Tannat "A" ($55-$60)
This wine is only made in good vintages, and it spends about 18 months in oak and sees no fining or filtering. This was an alluring and seductive wine, with intriguing complexity, intense flavors, silky tannins, and a lengthy and satisfying finish. This wine shows the high-end potential of Tannat, how strong tannins can be made manageable, and the depth of flavors that can be drawn forth from this grape. Uruguay is a country to keep on your radar.

6) Quinta do Portal 20 Year Old Tawny ($57)
From one of the few Port houses owned by a Portuguese family, this aged Port presents with a light amber color and it is pure bliss. An alluring and complex aroma marries to an intriguing melange of flavors. It is silky smooth with a lengthy and very satisfying finish. It's difficult to describe this Port in words as it is something that needs to be experienced. Highly recommended.

7) 2011 Quinta do Vallado Reserve:($64.99)
This wine is a unique mix of a 70% field blend of old vines (about 80+ years old), 27% Touriga Nacional and 3% Sousão. The field blend consists of over twenty different grapes, including & Tinta Roriz, Tinta Amarela, and Touriga Franca. With a medium red color, this wine had an alluring nose, one which makes you sit and smell the wine for a time before tasting it. Once you sample it, you'll discover a complex and enticing melange of flavors, including ripe plum, black cherry, fig, dark spices, mineral notes and hints of earthiness. Silky tannins, a long and pleasing finish, and excellent structure & balance. It is a hedonistic, delicious wine which will make you crave another glass. It possesses a certain exotic element which I equate with Portuguese wines, a terroir element which appeals to me.

8) 1998 Bodegas Riojanas Monte Real Gran Reserva Rioja ($50+)
This wine shows the great potential of aged Rioja. It is a blend of 80% Tempranillo, 15% Mazuelo, and 5% Graciano and is aged for 24-30 months in American oak and then aged in the bottle for at least 36 months. With a medium-red color, it has an alluring nose of cherry, plum and spice notes, and you'll probably sit with your glass for a time just enjoying the aromas. On the palate, you'll find a complex melange of intriguing flavors, a harmonious blend of fruit, spice and herbs. Elegant and silky, the wine caresses your palate, thrilling your senses. The tannins are well integrated, the wine is well balanced, and the finish lingers on and on. Though it will pair well with many dishes, it will also please on its own.

9) 2010 Vina Koyle Auma ($99.99)
This is only the second vintage of this Chilean wine, a blend of 37% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Carmenere, 18% Malbec, 13% Syrah, and 7% Petite Verdot. The wine is an inky dark color with an enticing nose of black fruits with eucalyptus notes. On the palate, it is seductive and alluring, a silky liquid which tantalizes the mind with its complex and harmonious blend of flavors. It is a wine where description becomes inadequate, where the best understanding comes from experiencing it. It may remind you of a high-end Bordeaux, though even if not, you are going to be impressed with its quality and complexity.

10) 2012 Bodegas Salentein Numina Gran Corte ($41) is a blend of 62% Malbec, 21% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc, and 5% Petit Verdot. I found this to be a fascinating wine from Argentina, possessed of a complex nose and taste, with great depth of flavor and a very satisfying, lengthy finish. Ripe plum, black cherry, hints of blueberry, lots of spicy notes, and hints of leather, cocoa and herbs. This is a wine to slowly savor, appreciating every complex and intriguing sip.

No single country or wine region dominated this list, and eight countries made the cut. Portugal and Uruguay both have two spots on the list, while the other spots were claimed by France, Lebanon, South Africa, Spain, Chile and Argentina. Red wines dominated though, taking 8 spots, with 1 spot for a White wine and 1 for a Fortified wine.

Not all expensive wines are worth their high price but these ten are wines well worth the splurge. These are the type of wines that words often cannot do justice. These are wines to experience and savor, not to dissect and analyze. These wines should be shared with others, with family and friends, to share the experience. With the holidays near, why not splurge and buy one of these wines.

If you have some of your own recommendations for unique and compelling wines over $50, please add them to the comments.

Wednesday, November 5, 2014

Bodegas Salentein: Altitude, Acidity & Terroir

Numerous consumers seem to believe that Argentina is primarily the place for inexpensive and delicious Malbec wines. When I see them at the wine shop, they most often ask for Malbec from Argentina, and not other varietals like Torrontes or Cabernet Sauvignon. Most often, they seek Malbecs costing $15 and under, though we have a fair share that will spend up to $25 for a better bottling. It is very rare that they come in seeking a high-end Malbec, or any high-end wine from Argentina.

I've traveled to Argentina, met numerous wine makers and winery owners, and tasted many of their wines. It was a fantastic trip, from great food to beautiful views, from compelling wines to interesting people. More people need to understand that Argentina is much more than inexpensive Malbec. Terroir is becoming more and more of an important concern in Argentina. They are paying careful attention to soil, altitude, microclimates, viticulture, and much more. Wine makers are trying to make more wines reflective of place, and they are succeeding.

At a recent media lunch at Mooo Restaurant, all of these issues once more rose to the surface as I dined with Jose Galante, Chief Winemaker at Bodegas Salentein, and Matías Bauzá Moreno, the Senior Brand and PR Manager for Salentein. Matias has worked for Salentein for about 13 years. In the photo above, Jose is on the left and Matias is on the right. Both men were very knowledgeable, had a clear passion for wine, and were excellent spokespeople for the wines of Argentina, as well as their own winery.

Bodegas Salentein is located in the Valle de Uco, the Uco Valley, a region to the southwest of Mendoza. It is considered one of the prime spots for quality vineyards in all of Argentina. The Uco Valley consists of about 75,000 hectares, with about one-third covered in vineyards, and the region produces about 6%-7% of all Argentina wines. In the future, the Uco Valley region may be broken down into smaller, distinctive regions, to better showcase specific terroirs.

The former owner of Salentein, who passed away a few months ago, was Mijndert Pon, who once worked in the family business of importing Volkswagens into the Netherlands. After retiring, Mijndert decided to sail around the world, but that dream ended near the Panama Canal. Afterwards, in 1992, Mijndert, at age 68, decided to purchase what would become the Salentein farm in Uco Valley.

He named the estate after his family farm back in the Netherlands. The property has historical roots, and one part of the estate was where Jesuits once made wine in the 17th century. At first, Mijndert just wanted to grow grapes, but it didn't take long for him to feel the desire to produce wine too, and his first vintage was in 1999. Currently, the Salentein estate consists of about 5,000 acres, with about 1700 aces being farmed.  

Jose Galante is relatively new to Salentein, as this has been only his fourth vintage, and he previously worked for about 34 years at Bodegas Catena Zapata, which is an admirable resume. Catena has long been on the cutting edge of vinous research in Argentina, so I'm sure Jose possesses great experience. In addition, his grandfather, who was from Italy, worked in a winery as did his father. Seems that wine is in his blood, and in addition, Jose spent about ten years teaching at a university. Upon moving to Salentein, Jose brought his lengthy experience and wine making philosophy with him, leading to some changes in the wines that have been made. To Jose, wine making is simply his way of life, and he wouldn't have it any other way.  

The prior winemaker at Salentein produced wines in a more classical wine style, while Jose chooses to use less oak and a less aggressive maceration. Barrels are now toasted in a more Burgundian style rather than a more aggressive Bordeaux style. In addition, Jose frequently tastes the wines in the barrels to assess when they need to be taken out of the barrels, trying to prevent issues with too much oak maturation.

He believes that the Uco Valley is the best region of all of Argentina, with plenty of high altitude vineyards. Those altitudes are very important, and the higher the altitude, the earlier the harvest, sometimes even by as much as an entire month. Different altitudes will also present different flavor profiles. For example, consider how altitude can affect Chardonnay. At low altitudes, you'll find more tropical fruit flavors while at medium altitudes, you'll get more apple and pear. And at high altitudes, you'll get a leaner wine with more mineral notes.

One of the most important keys to the region is acidity. The Uco Valley bring out acidity very well in wine, and there is no need to correct its acidity as you sometimes have to do in other regions. Jose believes that altitude may be a prime component in acidity. Acidity helps to make wines more food friendly.

Jose feels that the most important challenge he faces is to show all of the potential of Uco Valley, to make wines that reflect the terroir of their estate. They are still evaluating their soils, trying to determine the best areas for each type of grape. They never stop learning. Jose also wants use more restrained use of oak to showcase the flavors of the wine rather than overpower it. He doesn't want the oak to hide the terroir. In addition, he loves to visit the vineyards, taste the grapes, and feel closer to the land. He understands the importance of winemakers getting into the vineyards, to better understand how it will affect their wine making.

Vintage variation is not too great, though Jose stated that 2013 was one of their best vintages. As for the 2014 vintage, it had more rain and some issues at the end of the vintage. Despite that, Malbec did very well and Sauvignon Blanc was more mineral, though Cabernet Sauvignon suffered some. Most of the wines we  tasted were from 2012.

We began our lunch with the 2012 Kilka Torrontes ($14.99), which receives its name from an aboriginal world that means "opening" or "gateway." Jose stated that classical Torrontes possesses a bitter finish but this wine is intended to be different. Instead, it is easy to drink, a crisp and clean wine, with plenty of bright citrus flavors. It is very food friendly and elegant, lacking any bitterness on the finish. Pair with seafood, salads, and light chicken dishes. An excellent white wine choice.

Our first courses was a salad of roasted baby beets, goat cheese; and mache, topped by an apple cider & balsamic vinaigrette. With this course, we enjoyed a 2012 Chardonnay Reserve ($18.99), from medium altitude vineyards. With a pleasant aroma, it possessed tasty flavors of green apple and pear with a hint of smoke. It had a richer mouthfeel, partially due to having spent time on the lees and a partial malolactic fermentation. This white wine was also crisp and clean, with a lengthy and pleasing finish. Another food friendly wine too.

Our main course was a choice of swordfish or beef, and I opted for the Broiled Petite Filet Mignon with horseradish whipped potato, green beans, marrow toast, & red wine jus. Matias though chose the swordfish, noting that he believes it pairs well with Malbec. That is a pairing I;ll have to try some time.

The 2012 Malbec Reserve ($18.99), made from 100% Malbec, is aged for about 12 months in French oak and spends another 6 months in the bottle before release. With a dark red color,it had an interesting nose of black fruit and spice. On the palate, there were tasty flavors of ripe plum, black cherry and blackberry with a spicy backbone and a lingering finish. There was a nice depth of flavor to this wine, with moderate tannins and good acidity. A good steak wine. This wine is going to please all those Malbec lovers out there.

The 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve ($18.99), made from 100% Cabernet Sauvignon, is aged for about 12 months in oak, 90% French and 10% American. There was a certain elegance to this wine, with ripe black fruit flavors and plenty of spice notes. It possessed moderate tannins, nice complexity and a pleasing finish. My personal preference of these two wines was for the Malbec, which I felt might have possessed a greater depth of flavor, but both were very good wines.

The 2012 Numina Gran Corte ($41) is a blend of 62% Malbec, 21% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc, and 5% Petit Verdot. Each varietal is vinified separately and then is aged separately in the barrel for about 6 months. Afterwards, the grapes are mixed and then spend an additional ten months in the barrel. The term "numina" means "spirit." Until 2007, this wine used to be a Malbec/Merlot blend but Jose brought changes to the cepage.

Jose feels that it is more exciting to make a blend rather than a single varietal, a sentiment I have heard before from other winemakers from Argentina.. I found this to be a fascinating wine, possessed of a complex nose and taste, with great depth of flavor and a very satisfying, lengthy finish. Ripe plum, black cherry, hints of blueberry, lots of spicy notes, and hints of leather, cocoa and herbs. This is a wine to slowly savor, appreciating every complex and intriguing sip. An impressive and highly recommended wine.

The 2010 Primum Malbec ($65) is produced from 100% Malbec, 40% of the grapes from a high altitude vineyard, and it was aged for about 18 months in the barrel. This was such an elegant and delicious wine. Lots of violet and floral aroma, and a palate of cherry and plum flavors, with mild spicy accents, nice acidity, a touch of minerality and silky tannins. Another beautiful wine to slowly savor, with or without food. It well shows the potential of high-end Malbec, and is the type of high quality wine consumers need to understand can be produced from Malbec. Highly recommended.

All of these wines are now available throughout the U.S., and including in Massachusetts, So you have no excuse not to seek them out.

Wednesday, December 11, 2013

2013: Top Ten Wines Under $15

What were some of my favorite wines of the past year?

The start of a new year approaches and it is once again time to reflect upon the past year, to remember and savor many pleasant memories. As 2013 winds down, you'll see plenty lists of the best and worst of the past year. As I find value in such lists, I'll post my own series of Favorite Lists for 2013 over the next few weeks, covering food, wine, sake and spirits. These lists should provide a comprehensive summary of my favorites from this past year, allowing my readers to more readily locate such gems, the best of my recommendations.

My first Favorites List of 2013 is my Top Ten Wines Under $15. This list includes wines that not only did I enjoy, but which I also found to be particularly compelling for various reasons. They might be especially delicious, something more unique or just excellent values for the price. They all stand out, for some particular reason, above the other wines at this price point that I have tasted this past year.

This is a purely subjective list, based on my own preferences, and makes no claims about being the "best" wines out there. It is primarily the wines which spoke to me the loudest, even when they were subtle wines. These are all wines that I strongly recommend and which I believe many other wine lovers would also enjoy.

The wines are not listed in any particular order and each choice is linked to my more detailed prior review. All of these value wines are worth your consideration but please also note that the prices are approximations and the actual price may vary in your area. In addition, some of the wines might not be available in your local area, though you might be able to order them from the winery or an online store, dependent on your state's shipping laws.

1) 2009 Quinta do Penedo Dao Red (about $12-$15)
This Portuguese wine is a blend of Touriga Nacional and Alfrocheiro, and sees some aging in used French and American oak. From an alluring aroma to a complex and compelling taste, this wine drinks like something at twice the price or more. Delicious black fruit flavors, plenty of spice and a nice exotic taste. A well balanced wine, with good acidity and a lengthy finish will satisfy to the last drop. This wine receives my highest recommendation, especially at this price.

2) 2011 Quinta da Romeira Arinto ($11)
Also from Portugal, this wine was made from 100% Arinto and matured for a month on the lees, this is another superb value. It has a more subtle citrus aroma with a complex melange of flavors, lemon, apple, orange peel, minerality, and subtle herbs on the finish. It was crisp and dry, clean and fresh, with plenty of character. An excellent food wine, I recommend stocking up on this wine for the summer, and keeping some aside for the rest of the year too.

3) 2009 Mouchao 'Dom Rafael' Tinto ($14)
Another Portuguese wine, this is a blend of 40% Alicante Bouschet, 40% Trincadeira and 20% Aragonez. The grapes are trod by foot and the wines is aged in large oak barrels for about 24 months, with an additional 6 months in the bottle. Dark red, this wine had an exotic and exciting palate of black fruits, earthiness, and spice. Moderate tannins, a lengthy finish and plenty of character. An excellent value and highly recommended.

4) 2005 Bacalhoa Moscatel de Setubal ($12/750ml)
One more Portuguese wine. Made from 100% Moscatel de Setubal, this is a fortified wine with a 17.5% alcohol content that was aged for three years in small, used oak barrels. A rich, golden amber in color, the nose was compelling, and on the palate I found notes of apricot, dried fruit, honey, and herbs. A well balanced wine, the acidity ensured the sweetness was under control and its full-bodied flavors lingered long on the finish. A killer dessert wine with plenty of complexity and depth, at this low price point the wine is an amazing value.

5) NV Schoenheitz Cremant d' Alsace ($14)
An Alsatian blend of 90% Pinot Auxerrois and 10% Pinot Blanc, this was aged on the lees for 24 months. It also has an alcohol content of only 12% and was made with a low dosage. This is an excellent value wine; crisp, clean and elegant with pleasant apple and pear flavors as well as a streak of minerality. Very easy drinking and refreshing, it would be a fine apertif as well as a good pairing with food. You won't find many other sparkling wines that taste this good as this price point.

6) Neige Bubble ($15)
No grapes in this Canadian wine. It is actually a sparkling apple wine, produced in the traditional method from McIntosh apples, and 10% of Neige Apple Ice Wine is added to the bottle. It also has a low alcohol content of 7.5%. The Neige Bubble has a prominent and pleasing apple flavor and it is only lightly sweet. The bubbles make it refreshing and I believe that many people are going to enjoy this wine. I was impressed and it makes a great addition to a holiday party.

7)  2009 Vignoble du Marathonien Boise d'Havelock ($13)
Also from Canada, this wine is 100% Seyval Blanc but is undergoes 6-8 months of oak aging. It had a rich, complex taste with pleasant notes of citrus, green apple and vanilla. Dry, clean and refreshing, it would be enjoyable both on its own or paired with food. Yes, hybrids can make delicious wines too.

8) 2012 Illahe Pinot Gris ($15)
Oregon represents in this value wine. Fermented in 1600 gallon oak barrels, it had a compelling aroma and its taste fulfilled the promise of the nose. Pleasant apple and pears flavors, nice acidity and a good, lengthy finish. The winery produces many good wines, and their whites are generally good values. Plenty of character for the price, I highly recommend this Pinot Gris.

9) 2011 Apolloni Vineyards Pinot Blanc ($15)
Also from Oregon, I found excellent value in their 2011 Pinot Blanc ($15), which sees no oak and has an alcohol content of 12.5%. It is crisp and fruity, delicious pear and citrus, with some minerality, especially on the finish. Easy drinking but with plenty of character for the price. Great on its own or paired with food.

10) 2011 Don Miguel Gascon Colosal ($15)
From Argentina, this is a blend of 61% Malbec, 16% Bonarda, 13% Syrah and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. The majority of this wine was aged for fifteen months in a combination of French and American oak, and it has an alcohol content of 14.1%. The Colosal has a dark red color with a pleasing aroma of dark fruit and spice. On the palate, it is full bodied, with smooth tannins, and presents an elegant balance. Delicious plum, black cherry and spice notes dominate the taste and it offers good complexity for the price. An excellent value wine, this should appeal to many wine lovers.

Five different countries/states made this list and Portugal dominated the list, occupying four spots, which doesn't surprise me as I feel Portugal makes some of the best value wines in the world. Sight unseen, I'll take a chance on a Portuguese wine under $15 over a similarly priced wine from any other wine region in the world. For 2014, I highly recommend that my readers make the effort to taste, explore and purchase more Portuguese wine.

Canada took two spots, likely due in part because Taste Camp was held in Quebec this year, exposing me to a number of interesting Canadian wines. This is also the first year since 2010, that any U.S. wines have been included on this list. As I have mentioned before, I often find it more difficult to find compelling domestic wines for under $15, especially from California. They exist but I find them much less common than value imported wines. However, this year, due to my wine trip to Oregon, I found two Oregon white wines which made it to this list. The list is rounded out with wines from Argentina and France.

As for wine types, the list is also broken down into 1 Sparkling Wine, 4 Whites, 3 Red, 1 Fortified wine, and 1 Non-Grape wine. Though Whites dominated, there still is plenty of diversity in the selections.

I have other recommendations for wines under $15 on my blog and you just have to search for them. You can find value wines all over the world, in every region, though some regions provide a greater range and diversity of value wines. It is important to remember that though wine stores sell plenty of wines in this price range, not all of them are of equal value. Wines in this price range do not have to be one-dimensional wines that all taste the same. You can find wines of character and complexity, though you might need to spend a little more time seeking them out.

Wine blogs can help you in that regard, pointing out wines that you might not otherwise know about. Tasting the wines before you buy them is another way to find such values. Or simply ask your trusted wine store owner for advice and suggestions.

If you have some of your own recommendations for excellent wines under $15, please add them to the comments.