Animal Alcohol: Lamb Wine, Pigeon Blood Wine, Spirit of Goat & More

You might have enjoyed a Bloody Mary cocktail with a slice of bacon or even a chunk of lobster. Or maybe you've sipped a fine Pechuga Mezcal, where some type of meat (such as chicken, turkey, deer, goat, cow, pig, rabbit and even iguana) is used in the distillation process. You might also have seen bacon-infused bourbon or smoked salmon vodka. There is no shortage of people willing to blend meat and alcohol. In Asia, they have been using animal products in alcohol production for hundreds of years.

Some of the first mentions of "Lamb Wine" connected to China and the Tartars appear to be from Jesuit missionaries during the the late 17th and early 18th centuries. This occurred during the 61 year long reign of the Kangxi Emperor, the fourth emperor of the Qing dynasty. He was the longest reigning emperor in Chinese history and considered one of their greatest. The information on Lamb Wine is scant, and sometimes contradictory.

In The general history of China. Containing a geographical, historical, chronological, political and physical description of the empire of China, Chinese-Tartary, Corea, and Thibet by Jean Baptiste Du Halde (a French Jesuit), there is mention that the Chinese refer to "lamb wine" as Kau-yang-tsyew, and it might have originated with the Tartars. It is allegedly a very strong and nutritive drink but there isn't any information on how it is produced.

A General Description of China, Volume 2 by Abbe Grosier mentions that the Tartars make lamb wine, and that Emperor Kangxi used to drink it sometimes. Abbe also describes lamb wine, "It is very strong; but has a disagreeable smell. The same may be said of a kind of spirits procured from the flesh of sheep." It is interesting that there appears to be both a lamb wine and a spirit made from sheep. That distinction is mentioned in other references as well.

A New General Collection of Voyages And Travels Consisting Of The Most Esteemed Relations, Which Have Been Hitherto Published In Any Language: (published in 1747) stated that there is a strong spirit, made with mutton, which Emperor Kangxi enjoyed, though most other people, except for Tartars, felt it had a disagreeable taste. There is also a lamb wine, known as Kau-yang-tsyew, which is made in the Province of Shēn-si. It too is said to be very strong and have a disagreeable smell. None of it is exported outside the country.

In The History of Alcohol in the Far East - China, Japan, Philippines, Islands of the Pacific, by Emerson, Edward Randolph, there is mention of a spirit produced from sheep, and that the method of production is a unknown to Europeans. There is note that the alcohol originated with the Tartars, and a clear difference is delineated between lamb wine and the sheep spirit. Emperor Kangxi allegedly promoted the manufacture of lamb wine as it was one of his favorite drinks, though many other Chinese disliked it.

There is a question as to how the lamb wine is produced, as mentioned in China: Its Costume, Arts, Manufactures, &c, Volumes 3-4 by M. Bretin (1812). The book states, "...wine, which is made in the province of Chen-Si, and which is named Cao-Yang-Tsieou, or Lamb-Wine. It is not very clear how lamb's flesh can be employed in making wine." I'll also note this provides an alternative spelling to the previous term of Kau-yang-tsyew. 

A U.S. newspaper even reported about Lamb Wine though they had little to add, except that it was apparently made with milk. The Evening Star (Washington, D.C.), February 18, 1912 published, "..., while another drink is 'kau-yang-tsyew,' or lamb wine. This is made from a young lamb and milk, and is said to be exceedingly intoxicating." The Tartars are also known for an alcoholic beverage called Kumiss, which is basically fermented mare's milk, so the use of milk in the "lamb wine" isn't much of a stretch.

There is an older source which provides more guidance and detail on the production of lamb wine, and which includes the use of milk. In Miscellanies: Stories and Essays, Volume 3 by John Hollingshead (1874), "The Mantchoo Tartars, for example, the conquerors of China, prepare a wine of a very peculiar nature from the flesh of lambs, either by fermenting it, reduced to a kind of paste, with the milk of their domestic animals, or bruising it to a pulpy substance with rice. When properly matured, it is put into jars and then drawn off as occasion requires, and it has the reputation of being very strong and nourishing. Whatever remains after supplying domestic wants is exported into China or Corea under the name of lamb wine. The Chinese term for this liquor is Kan-yang-tsyew, and it is as great a favourite with the emperors as sherry was with George the Fourth." This also shows that this version is merely fermented and not distilled, though there is other evidence of the distilled version.

In Beverages, Past and Present: An Historical Sketch of Their Production, Together with a Study of the Customs Connected with Their Use, Volume 1 by Edward Randolph Emerson (1908) we find that the lamb wine is distilled. "The Chinese are indebted to the Tartars for their kau-yang-tsyew or lamb wine. According to the tales of ancient travellers, the method of making this beverage, which is described as being pleasant to the taste and remarkably wholesome, was to dress a young lamb as for cooking, then by gently pounding the flesh gradually make it into a pulp. It is then placed in milk and allowed to ferment, after which it is carefully distilled. It is a very intoxicating beverage and its use is greatly restricted. At one time it was the favourite drink of the Emperors, but, on the whole, it cannot be said to have had the general indorsement of the people." It seems that based on the number of comments of the strength of the alcohol, it is possible the distilled version may have been the more common. If so, this is almost like a Chinese version of Pechuga Mezcal.

In India, they have their own versions of a Pechuga Mezcal-like drink, where they distill alcohol using the meat of various animals. In a source I already mentioned above, Miscellanies: Stories and Essays, Volume 3 by John Hollingshead (1874), there is mention of these spirits. "Of a similar description, perhaps, is the spirit made at Surat, denominated spirit of mutton, spirit of deer, spirit of goat, which derives its name from the practice of throwing into the still a joint of mutton, a haunch of venison, or a quarter of a goat." Surat is a large port city in India. It appears they use at least three different meats to make their spirits, placing them into a still like Mexicans would do to produce Pechuga.

Another source, A Book of Bombay by James Douglas (1883), adds some information about these spirits. "In 'addition to these, Grose tells us of three drinks which now burst upon the bibulous world of Bombay with astonishing effect. The three viands which now divided public attention were the spirit of Deer, the spirit of Mutton, and the spirit of Goat, to such marvellous ingenuity are men driven to invent new names for liquors to quench their thirst. These drinks were in great vogue, and the way they got their names was this: - A haunch of venison, a joint of mutton, or a quarter of goat was thrown into the vat when the arrack was being distilled, and while correcting its fiery nature, imparted a new flavour which was considered mighty fine. The blend of each at these spirits was different; every man had his favourite, some the one, some the other, the deer no doubt from its wild gout, outrunning the other animal spirits in the chase." It mentions the same three animals, though this time includes the nature of the spirit, arrack, a common alcohol in India and which can be made from a variety of ingredients.

Returning to China, the Uighur people of the Xinjiang region have their own wine-making tradition which may extend back to at least the 7th century, if not earlier. They produced a wine known as Museles, to which they add a variety of ingredients, from saffron and cloves, to pigeon blood, pigeon meat or lamb. The museles would also be aged for a couple months in ceramic vats. The Express Tribune, June 4, 2015 mentioned that the wine is, "Deep red, its unusual ingredients give it a pungent, musty nose and a sweet-sour, spiced taste, akin to a vermouth." The Uighur view museles more as a medicine than an alcohol. The Uighur still produce museles in their villages, and it is likely some still add animal meat or blood to their wine, though it isn't commercially available.

What are your thoughts on the addition of meat to wine or spirits?

Thirst Boston: New Kids On The Block--Whisky From Unexpected Places

You probably know about Bourbon from Kentucky, Scotch from Scotland, and Irish Whiskey from Ireland. You might even know about the wonderful whiskey now being produced in Japan. However, were you aware, or have you ever tasted, whiskey made in France, England, Taiwan or India?  

At Thirst Boston, you had the opportunity to taste whiskey made in these countries at a fascinating seminar called New Kids On The Block: Whisky From Unexpected Places and its description stated: "These days whiskey means so much more than Scotch and Bourbon. From France to Taiwan, American bartenders and whiskey drinkers are now able to drink delectable brown potations from across the globe whether it be Japanese whisky from a 90 year old distillery or some of the first releases from an English upstart." It was intriguing to be able to taste whiskey from these countries, to obtain a glimpse into the differences they bring to this category.

The presenters at this seminar included: Scott Pugh, VP of Sales & Product Development for Venturi Brands, which owns Vicomte French Whisky; Gardner Dunn, Beam Suntory National Brand Ambassador for Hibiki, Yamazaki and Hakushu Japanese Whiskies; Gregory Fitch of Anchor Distilling representing Kavalan Whisky; and Raj Sabharwal, owner of Purple Valley Imports, sole importer of Amrut Whisky, the only Indian whisky currently in the US, and the English Whisky Company. 

In 2015, Americans consumed approximately 830 million liters of whiskey, and that amount continues to grow each year. Americans are enamored with whiskey and love exploring the various brands they find on the shelves of their local liquor shops. As they peruse these shelves, they're likely to start seeing whiskey made in countries not commonly know for whiskey production. I'm sure that will intrigue many whiskey lovers though they might not be willing to buy an unknown product. However, I encourage these consumers to expand their palates and try these new whiskies, as these countries are making some damn good whiskey.

From France comes the Vicomte 8 Year Old Single Malt ($40-$45) which is produced by a 3rd generation distillery located in the Cognac region. The distillery once provided bulk product for Cognac but eventually decided to make a product for themselves. They begin with 100% organic barley, grown and harvested in the Poitou-Charentes region of France. The whiskey is distilled twice in copper pot stills before going into French Oak Limousin Barrels for about six months. Then, it is aged for about 8 years in first-fill Cognac barrels.

This was a delicious, easy-drinking whiskey which might remind you of bourbon with its sweet vanilla and caramel notes. There were also some fruity notes, some apricot and citrus, with a touch of chocolate. Silky and smooth, it would be a great introductory whiskey which should appeal to many drinkers. The Vicomte was made to be easy to mix in cocktails and I think it would work well in that regard.

Vicomte started aging their whiskey about 12 years ago so they are planning to release a 12 Year Old whiskey in the near future. This is the second French whiskey I've ever tasted and both pleased me. There are only a handful of French whiskies available in the U.S. and I would recommend you check out the Vicomte.

The Kavalan Single Malt is made in Taiwan and I have previously written about this distillery and several of their whiskies so I encourage you to check out that prior post, Kavalan: Taiwan Whiskey In short, Kavalan is making some amazing whiskies.

During the last hundred years, Japan has made huge strides in the production of whiskey and now win top international awards for their products. Most whiskey lovers will confirm that Japan is making many fantastic whiskies and now they are eagerly sought. I'm a fan of Japanese whiskies and have written about them before such as Nikka Whisky. Suntory Whisky, which makes the Hibiki, Yamazaki and Hakushu brands, is all about innovation. With an assortment of different types of stills, different oaks, different grains, and more, they can produce about 160 different styles of whiskey. That gives them a huge amount of "ingredients" for the art of blending, which is vitally important to them.

Their former Master Blender used to eat the same meal every day, Tempura Udon, to keep his palate neutral. In addition, he didn't smoke and wouldn't eat garlic. That is certainly dedication and discipline. His replacement has been emulating a similar diet for the last nine years, though he's eating Soba instead of Udon. The Master Blender always thinks he can make a better whiskey, continually working toward perfection though he knows he will never reach that ideal. Hibiki is intended to be a "blend of harmony," and the foundation of their Hibiki product line.

The Hibiki Japanese Harmony ($60-$70) is a blend of at least 10 malt and grain whiskies, aged in five different barrel types, including American white oak, Sherry casks, and Mizunara (Japanese oak) barrels. The whiskies also come from three different distilleries, including Yamazaki, Hakushu and Chita. I think the Master Blender has accomplished their goal, with a whiskey with a fascinating and harmonious blend of flavors. It is light and on the sweeter side, with notes of honey, caramel, candied fruits and baking spices, though there is also a touch of smokiness and floral accents. It has an intriguing depth of flavors, with a long, pleasing finish. You really need to sample the wonders of Japanese whiskies.

It might surprise you to learn that India is the largest whiskey consumer in the world. Once you understand that fact, then it is easier to understand why they might start producing their own whiskey too. Amrut Distilleries was founded back in 1948 in Bangalore and they initially produced rum, considering that India is also the world's second largest producer of sugarcane. In addition, most of the whiskey produced in India is molasses based, though that is primarily consumed within the country. During the 1970s, they started producing single malts, though only for blended whiskies. However, now at least a couple distilleries have started to bottle single malts on their own.

Amrut makes a number of different single malts, using Indian barley, grown at the base of the Himalayan Mountains, and which is only used for brewing/distillation. They do not use age statements and the intense heat of the region matures their whiskey much quicker than usual. It is said that 1 year of aging in Bangalore is equivalent to about 3 years in Scotland. In addition, and as expected, they lose plenty of whiskey to the angel's share, as much as 15% in a single year.

The Amrut Fusion Single Malt (about $65), which was released in 2011, is a "marriage" of 75% unpeated and 25% peated 100% barley whiskey which is then aged for another six to nine months in ex-bourbon barrels and bottled at 100 proof. I enjoyed this whiskey too, finding it light bodied with an interesting and complex blend of flavors, including caramel, intense spices, citrus and a touch of smoke. Smooth and easy drinking, this is another whiskey which should appeal to a wide audience. It makes me want to try the rest of the Amrut portfolio.

Finally, we end up in England, with the first and now oldest whiskey distillery in that country, with about 5 whiskey distilleries now in the country.  Established in 2008, the St. George's Distillery is the home of the English Whisky Company, a name change which was necessary for the U.S. market to avoid confusion with a similarly named company. They received initial distillation advice from the legendary Iain Henderson, formerly of Laphroaig, so they started from a strong place.

The English Whiskey Co. Peated Cask Strength ($100-$110), at 60.9% ABV, is made from estate grown barley, was aged for about 4-5 years, and uses peat from the mainland of Scotland rather than the islands. That is a very important difference as the peat lacks the salinity you find from the islands and in addition, the inland peat doesn't express as strongly. The peat level in this whiskey is 55 parts per million (ppm), which is actually higher than Laphroaig at 50ppm. However, the English whiskey tastes much less smoky than the Laphroaig though you wouldn't expect that to be the case. There are notes of bacon fat amidst the mild smokiness, as well as caramel and toffee notes, with mild citrus, nuttiness, and vanilla. A complex and intriguing taste, with a fuller body and a lengthy, satisfying finish.

The main takeaway is that delicious and interesting whiskey is now being made all over the world and you should take the opportunity to try some of these new whiskies. You might just find a new favorite. And as these new countries gain more knowledge and experience, their whiskey will only  evolve and improve. Don't be a whiskey snob and  be willing to expand your palate.