SENA19: Eating Ogusokumushi, an Ancient Sea Creature

The Japanese refer to them as Ogusokumushi, which translates as "giant armored bug." In some places, they are also referred to as "underwater pill bugs." Their scientific name is Bathynomus giganteus, the Giant Isopod. Isopod isn't an appealing name so that's going to be an obstacle in of itself. In addition, they kind of resemble a mutant cockroach so that's another obstacle. However, despite these obstacles, this sea creature could soon be finding itself on your dinner plate.

At the Seafood Expo North America (SENA), I stopped at the Tropic Seafood booth to check out this unusual creature. Tropic Seafood is based on Nassau in the Bahamas, and was first MSC Certified lobster fishery in the Bahamas. They are also a processor and packer of seafood products native to the Bahamas and Caribbean, including Golden Crab, Olive Flounder, Spiny Lobster and Bahamian Conch.

In one of their water tanks, there were several Giant Isopods, and that blue tint was part of the tanks so you don't get to see their natural color. Yes, they look like armored bugs but also have elements common to lobsters and crabs. And if you can eat a lobster, then eating a giant isopod shouldn't be much of a stretch.

Giant isopods are a type of crustacean, like crabs and shrimp, and they are also the largest member of the isopod family, of which there are about 10,000 varieties. They are related to land-based pill bugs so it isn't too farfetched to call them underwater pill bugs. Fossils of isopods date back at least 300 million years ago, and they haven't changed much since that time. Giant isopods are also subject to "deep sea gigantism," where deep sea creatures grow to be much greater in size than if they inhabited shallower waters. They can grow to be over 16 inches long, a far greater size than any other isopod.

Despite the fact that giant isopods are easy to find and harvest in the seas, commercial fishing is still quite tiny. Most of the giant isopods that are caught by fishermen are merely bycatch. It seems that Japan, and other Asian countries, are the primary consumers of giant isopods, and even then it is still rather an uncommon and more unique food. Tropic Seafood hopes to change that, and one way is through promoting the consumption of giant isopods within the U.S. It won't be an easy sell but I'm intrigued by the idea.

I was told that giant isopods, which are commonly cooked by steaming, have meat in the legs and bodies, which is said to taste similar to blue crab. In addition, female isopods have roe, which resembles uni, but it also is said to taste like blue crab. It is most commonly found in sushi restaurants, though there isn't any reason why it wouldn't fit on the menu of any seafood restaurant in the U.S. Unfortunately, they didn't have any samples of giant isopod to taste, so I can't say whether it actually tastes like crab or not. I'll be keeping an eye out though for any restaurant that serves it so I can give it a try.

As I've said before, American consumers need to eat more different varieties of seafood, and not just the most popular top ten. 90% of the seafood species consumed in the U.S. fall within this top ten, including Shrimp, Salmon, Tuna, Tilapia, Alaska Pollock, Pangasius, Cod, Crab, Catfish, and Clams. By limiting ourselves to these ten species, we put heavy pressures on those seafood populations, causing sustainability issues. We need to ease those pressures by lowering consumption of those species, and consuming other species that don't have sustainability issues. We have to give the populations of those ten common species more time to rebound and recover.

By limiting ourselves to primarily ten species, we are also hurting the economic situation of our fishermen, driving some of them out of business. Fishermen harvest many other different seafood species but there is little market for many of those species so they can't earn much money from those catches. If Americans started consuming more of those less common species, the market for them would grow, helping fishermen make more money.

Get over your psychological barriers! Don't be afraid of something unfamiliar and take a chance on a different fish. It is time now to stop eating the same old fish all the time and experiment with less common seafood, to broaden your palate. As I wrote yesterday, more people should eat rabbit. And today, I'm asking people to eat more types of seafood, including a giant armored bug like the Giant Isopod!

SENA19: Increasing America's Seafood Consumption

For a myriad of reasons, Americans should consume more seafood but getting them to do so isn't easy. As I wrote about last December, there was some good news as Americans consumed more seafood in 2017 than the previous year, an increase of 1.1 pounds per capita to 16 pounds. However, that is still 10 pounds less than the recommended annual amount of 26 pounds. The increase in 2017 was a positive step, but it must continue. For comparison, in 2018, it was predicted that Americans would eat an annual average of 222 pounds of red meat and poultry. That is illustrative of how little seafood Americans actually eat.

At the Seafood Expo North America (SENA), I attended a conference, Increasing America's Per Capita Seafood Consumption 25% By 2023. The synopsis of the panel states: "Widespread acceptance of seafood continues to elude the industry. While consumers know many ocean-fisheries are badly depleted, with scarcities creating prices only the wealthy can afford, they’re also told that farmed fish, once considered the solution, is deeply flawed, and characterized by widespread disregard for the environment and reckless use of antibiotics. Frozen seafood isn’t considered a high-quality option either, as consumers continue to be told that nothing beats fresh. The truth about farmed and frozen seafood is a different story, a story whose widespread dissemination would get seafood moving forward."

The panel of speakers included Phil Walsh, Director of Sales - Australis Aquaculture; Steven Hedlund, Communications Manager - Global Aquaculture Alliance; Eric Buckner, Sr. Director, Seafood - Sysco Corporation; Richard Castle, Director of Seafood - Giant Eagle Inc; and Josh Goldman, CEO - Australis Barramundi.

The main topic centered on two misguided and negative consumer beliefs, concerning farmed seafood and frozen seafood. The public is bombarded with negative media stories concerning seafood, in newspapers, magazines, television, the Internet, and more. As I've mentioned before, there are about 4 times as many negative articles about seafood than positive ones. These negative views are easily remembered, playing upon the fears of the public.

In addition, there are other reasons why consumers don't eat enough seafood. Many feel it is too expensive, many feel it is too difficult to cook, and for others, it isn't part of their traditional diet. If people grow up in the middle of the country, their access to fresh seafood may be limited and thus they aren't used to quality seafood.

What many consumers need to understand that the seafood industry has been constantly trying to improve its practices, and some negative issues that might have been relevant in the past are no longer a problem. Or at least, they are not a problem for a number of fisheries, which may even be certified, indicative of their quality and sustainability.

As to frozen seafood specifically, consumers often have negative views, that it is dry, has pin bones, is more bread than fish, is low quality, and has off flavors. However, frozen seafood has seen plenty of quality improvements over the years. Frozen seafood is also looked on very positively in other places around the world. For example, it is more commonly referred to as "chilled" seafood while in Japan, they primarily eat frozen seafood.

Not all frozen seafood is the same, much dependent on the temperature you freeze it at, as colder temperatures do less damage to the cellular walls. Even the simple fish stick has vastly improved in quality over the years. There are also numerous benefits to frozen seafood, such as the of low cost of transport, traceability, consistent quality, consumer friendly, and it can be easy and quick to prepare at home.

As for aquaculture, it too gets a bad reputation, despite many technological advances in recent years. As many experts will tell you, you shouldn't think of the dichotomy of fresh vs frozen, but instead of high quality vs low quality. Not all aquaculture is the same. Just think that much of the shellfish you eat, from oysters to mussels, are farmed. In a Washington Post article, from September 24, 2013, they did a blind taste test of wild vs farmed salmon, and farmed and frozen salmon prevailed as the winners. As was stated, "Aquaculture is the future of responsible food production" though some prefer to use the term "cultivated" rather than farmed.

How do you combat all these negative media portrayals? "It will take collaboration, cooperation and consistency." First, compelling educational content to combat negative articles, which often have little, if any, scientific basis. There was also a discussion of connecting with the media, such as designing aquaculture facilities to offer media tours and being a resource for local media. It was also mentioned that the industry should create transparency videos and virtual farm tours.

Though it wasn't discussed, I think the seafood industry also needs to be more supportive of positive media articles about seafood. They need to share those articles on social media, post links on their websites, and better identify their allies in the media. Positive seafood articles can be too easily lost unless they are promoted well, so they can be used to combat the negative articles. There is plenty of "fake news" about seafood out there and we need to educate people about the truth. Both farmed and frozen seafood should not be avoided per se as there is much of quality out there, which is also sustainable and traceable.

Consumers, educate yourselves about seafood and learn the positive attributes of all types of seafood.

SENA19: An Overview of the Seafood Expo

Once again, I had a fun, delicious and informative trip to the 2019 Seafood Expo North America (SENA). As usual, I immersed myself within the international seafood industry, enjoying plenty of seafood samples, seeking out interesting stories, chatting with numerous people and taking photos of fish heads. I'll be writing a number of stories about my experiences, discussing some of my favorite food finds, talking about an intriguing new species coming to market, delving into how to increase consumer consumption of seafood, and more.

SENA is the largest seafood trade event in North America, and in prior years it constantly broke records on both its exhibitor size and attendance. For example, in 2017, over 1327 companies, representing 51 different countries, exhibited at the Expo while in 2018, those number rose to 1341 exhibitors from 57 countries. In addition, the total exhibit space grew from approximately 253,000 square feet in 2017 to about 258,630 square feet in 2018. This year was a bit odd as though the number of exhibitors rose to 1349, the number of participating countries dropped to 49, and the total exhibit space also decreased, down to 256,690. We will have to see if this was a temporary blip or a trend in the future.

The main events of the Seafood Expo occur each year over the course of three days, from Sunday to Tuesday, over a total period of 19 hours. However, there are a few other events that occur before and after the normal hours of the Expo, such as receptions and coffee hours. This year, the program included about 30 conference sessions, the 13th annual Oyster Shucking Competition, the Seafood Excellence Awards, and more. Something for everyone. You certainly can't attend every SENA event, so you need to pick and choose which you most desire to attend, which events fit your specific interests.

This year, there were over 20,000 attendees, from all over the world, making the Expo a truly international event. It is an excellent example of the interconnectedness of our world, of how we are really one vast community with shared interests. When you consider the oceans occupy about 71% of the world's surface, it's easy to understand how it unites us. Plus, we have to consider all the freshwater rivers, lakes, and waterways which produce seafood. Sunday is the busiest day at the Expo, and it can get a little crowded walking around, especially when people sometimes stop in the middle of the aisle to chat with others. As an aside, walking up and down the 30+ aisles at the Expo  isa great cardio exercise.

SENA is my favorite food event each year, one which I have promoted and recommended year after year. Besides all the delectable seafood samples, you'll also find ample fodder for many different story ideas. SENA touches on some of the most important issues facing our world, from sustainability to climate change. Every local writer who has any interest in seafood, sustainability, health, recipes, or food in general, should attend this Expo. However, few local writers attend SENA and those who do commonly write only a single article or two about it. These articles are often very basic, touching only on some of the most general issues about the Expo.

Even the major local newspapers generally publish only one article, often a basic overview lacking any depth. This year, it seems that the Boston Herald didn't publish any articles about the Expo, and the Boston Globe posted only a single article, concentrating on a specific exhibitor. This all needs to change! We need more local writers to attend SENA and delve more deeply into the myriad issues of the seafood industry. We need more local writers to help promote seafood consumption and sustainability. We need more local writers to contribute to the discussion of these vital issues. We need the print media to get more involved too. The more positive articles about seafood, the better for all of us.

It should be obvious that the primary element of SENA is commerce, the buying and selling of seafood-related products and services. Nearly all of the exhibitors are there to make money while most of the attendees are there to spend money. Attendees are seeking seafood, both fresh and frozen, as well as various processed seafood products, from crab cakes to salmon bacon. Others are there to buy processing equipment, cooking supplies, packaging machinery, labeling equipment, conveyors, and much more. Still others are seeking services, from food safety to third party certification. Some of this commerce is international, with exhibitors and attendees from all over the world, trying to make deals. It's business and money.

What may not seem obvious is that SENA is not really about seafood. It's not??? Despite the many thousand pounds of seafood being showcased at the Expo, it is merely a means to an end. SENA is actually about people and community. Seafood is only food, intended to provide sustenance and nutrition to people, and that is understood, though largely unspoken, by the exhibitors and attendees. SENA is much more about fishermen and fish farmers, distributors and retailers, inventors and importers. It is about all of the people involved in the seafood industry, and their economic well being. It is about the global economy as the seafood industry is truly international and affects people all across the world.

Concerns about seafood sustainability ultimately come down to the fate of people, whether future generations will have enough food to survive, and whether they will live in a clean world, with adequate resources. The fate of the oceans and the fish directly relates to the fate of mankind. Seafood sustainability is also about the survival of fishermen, that they can make a sufficient income to survive and thrive. When you understand that SENA is all about people, then the issues take on an even greater significance. We need to talk about this more, to ensure that everyone understands people are the primary concern. It is our future and nothing is more important than that.

Although SENA involves many serious and vital issues, it also has an element of fun, as well as plenty of tasty seafood samples. SENA is a showcase for new seafood products as well as place to display other seafood products which may have a storied history, such as Maine Lobster. Though it is common to find for sampling a variety of simple, fried seafoods, there are also some chefs who elevate their offerings, providing more interesting and delicious dishes, from Lobster Arancini to Miso Geoduck Chowder. Over the course of a single day at SENA, you can enjoy plenty of seafood, from oysters to salmon, and you can repeat that for three days if you so desire.

I'll be posting additional articles about SENA in the near future, highlighting some of items which especially caught my attention this year. Plus, I want to highlight that SENA returns next year, March 15-17, 2020, and I strongly encourage all local writers to mark those dates down on their calendar and plan to attend next year. As I've mentioned before in other articles, there are about 4 times as many negative seafood articles in the media than positive ones. The seafood industry needs more champions to promote its many positive aspects and I call on local writers to step up and become one of those needed champions.

“Wherever the fish are, that's where we go.”
--Richard Wagner