SENA15: Inupiat, Kotzebue & Sheefish

While roaming the aisles of the Seafood Expo North America (SENA), you never know when you might find a type of seafood that is new to you. Sure, you can find plenty of salmon and shrimp, cod and mussels, but you might also encounter opah and croaker, hoki and lumpfish. I was pleasantly surprised to find a fish new to me, the one pictured above, which is known as a Sheefish. It was being introduced to Boston for the first time, and you might soon start seeing it at local fish markets and restaurants.

The Sheefish is being sold by Maniilaq Services LLC, a company owned by twelve federally-recognized tribes of Inupiat located in Northwest Alaska. Interestingly, Maniiḷaq is a legendary Inupiat who allegedly lived, as a hunter and healer, during the 19th century. It is said he had numerous prophecies, including predicting the arrival of white people to Alaska and the existence of airplanes.

The fishery, located in the Kotzebue Sound region,  is centered on the village of Kotzebue, which has a population just over 3,000, Kotzebuem is about 26 miles north of the Arctic Circle and is thought to be the oldest settlement in both North and South America. It is known to the Inupiat as Qikiktagruk, which translates as "almost an island." Around 1818, Otto von Kotzebue, a Russian navigator who was seeking a Northwest Passage, entered the Kotzebue Sound region, giving it his name.

Located on the coast, Kotzebue is also near several fresh water tributaries, which made it a valuable location for the earliest settlers. The region of the Sound contains a variety of wildlife, including caribou, various birds, bearded seals, beluga whales and more. It is also the home to polar bears and in fact, the world's largest polar bear, weighing over 2200 pounds, was found here.

Also known as Inconnu, the Sheefish is the largest member of the whitefish subfamily, and can grow to about 3 feet long and weigh up to 60 pounds. The name "inconnu" is a term in Old French which means "unknown" as when French explorers first found these fish in northwest Canada in the late 18th century, they called it poisson inconnu, meaning "unknown fish." The natives though called these fish "shees" so that name stuck.

Their skin may be white, silvery, dark blue and greenish gray in color and they possess large scales. They are known for their mouths, which they can open almost as wide as their body, and they also have an extended lower jaw. They are carnivores, eating smaller fish,and travel up the freshwater tributaries during the summer to feed and/or spawn. It is when the sheefish swim back to the ocean during the winter that the Inupiat catch them.

From October to May, most of the fishing occurs, in a sustainable and traditional method, catching them one at a time, either using a jig through ice or in the open water while on small boat. The Inupiat have relied on sheefish as a source of food, for themselves and their dogs, for thousands of years. Sheefish are sometimes referred to as the "Tarpon of the North" because they put up a good fight when being caught. The Alaska Department of Fish & Game monitors the fisheries in this region, and determined that sheefish are the second most harvested animal, for subsistence, with caribou being the first. They also ensure that the sheefish fishery is sustainable.

Their flesh is white like a halibut, but has a texture that is closer to salmon. The meat is supposed to be flaky and a bit oily. I didn't have the opportunity to taste any sheefish, so I can't speak on the taste though I am intrigued. Considered superior in taste to halibut, it is also supposed to be about half the price of halibut, making it an even more attractive option. I'll be keeping my eye out for sheefish and will report back once I've tasted it.

Have any of my readers ever eaten sheefish?

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I am back again with a new edition of Thursday Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting wine and food items that are upcoming. **********************************************************
1) The Oceanaire Seafood Room invites scallop connoisseurs to try Alaska Weathervane Scallops off its Alaska Seafood & Wine Weekend five course menu available only July 25 - 27. These very limited, high quality, frozen-at-sea scallops are the freshest seasonal delicacy straight from the fishing boats of Alaska Weathervane Seafoods.

Caught from the Bering Sea on the Arctic Hunter, the fishermen catch, shuck, clean, size-sort, box and rapid-deep-freeze the Alaska Weathervane within four short hours of capture. This process locks in the Weathervane’s natural sweet flavor and delicate texture for scallop aficionados to enjoy around the world, from the remote pristine icy waters of Alaska. These scallops are not soaked in water nor combined with any chemicals in processing.

The five-course menu will include not only Alaska Weathervane Scallops but also Alaska King Crab, Wild Alaska Halibut and Wild Alaska Salmon. Each course is paired with wine selections of JCB No. 21, Cremant de Bourgogne, NV; Domaine de la Perrière Sancerre; La Crema Monterey Chardonnay; and CrossBarn by Paul Hobbs Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir. Guests can only order the Alaska Weathervane Scallops as part of the pre-fixed menu selections. The five-course dinner costs $85 per guest.

“We are looking forward to sharing this ultra-fresh seasonal indulgence with our loyal patrons,” said Wade Wiestling, Corporate Executive Chef of The Oceanaire Seafood Room. “It is a short fishery with very limited catch so we encourage area-residents to come try these legendary scallops while we have them!”

Alaska Weathervane Seafoods is a marketing group formed by three of the Alaska Weathervane Scallop fishing boats and their crews to sell the sweetest, all-natural scallops in the world. These three fishing boats are the only vessels to hold license to catch and freeze onboard the legendary Alaska Weathervane Scallops. The scallops are fished sustainably in a manner respectful to the environment and other fisheries.

2) Legal Oysteria, a Legal Sea Foods one-off, has now opened in Charlestown. Oysteria is a casual neighborhood restaurant serving coastal Italian-style seafood with a menu developed by Executive Chef Rich Vellante, a dual American and Italian citizen. The menu is inspired by the food he cooks at home for friends and family and the bar program is designed to complement the cuisine.

Legal Oysteria is inspired by a traditional “osteria” and aspires to provide a casual, comfortable and accessible environment. The space features an open design with floor-to-ceiling windows, an expansive island bar seating 30 with a white marble top, an open kitchen boasting an old world brick oven with true clay-based fire bricks and a rotisserie. The dining room seats 139 people and there is also a private dining space for parties of up to 35.

Legal Oysteria’s menu showcases the freshness and purity of its seafood offerings and other ingredients. Preparations are simple and authentic and the brick oven informs the menu. Highlights from Vellante’s menu include: Charred Octopus (tomato, potato, coriander vinaigrette - $10); Crispy Eggplant Caponata Dip (grilled focaccia - $8.50); Roasted Clam Pizza (mozzarella, pecorino, parsley - $12); Grilled Stuffed Trout (braised fennel, pickled cherry tomatoes - $19); Steak Pizzaiolo (crispy rosemary tomatoes - $24); Whole Roasted Fish (potatoes, tomatoes, olives - $20); and, Sausages Stuffed with Truffle Cheese (lentils, leeks, pancetta - $18). There are also a variety of “Small Plates,” priced between $3-5, including Salt Cod Crostini, Ricotta Fritters (spicy honey) and a trio of Oyster preparations (raw, grilled and baked).

On the spirits side, Legal Oysteria’s bar program is designed to complement the cuisine. The all-Mediterranean wine list – heavily focused on offerings from Italy and Spain – is presented by the grape varietal or varietal mix. There are 32 wines by the glass, five by the half-bottle and four tasting flights. The cocktail program highlights the wine, vermouth, chinato and amaro of Italy and beyond. There are six signature drinks, as well as six aperitivi, featured including: Prosecco Cocktail (a traditional spritz with prosecco, Aperol, Aperitivo Rosa, citrus, soda - $11); Amaro Mule (a fun, flavorful take on a classic bracer with Nonino Amaro, fresh lime, ginger beer - $10); del Sole (“proof of a higher power” with Moscato Chinato, prosecco, love); and, Mr. Wonderful (strong, dark and handsome with rye, amaro, citrus oil - $10). There are eight draught beers, including regional craft selections.

3) “Pura vida,” or the good life, is what renowned chef and restaurateur, Michael Schlow and executive chef Leo Asaro at Tico are bringing to Back Bay for the restaurant’s annual Summer Patio Series.

Tico will bring the streets of Latin America to its Back Bay patio, serving authentic dishes like sausages, quesadillas and empanadas. Chefs will be stationed throughout the patio cooking up these delicious treats while roving ‘Tequila Girls’ from Cazadores will be passing out samples of this small-batch tequila aged in virgin oak barrels.

The Tico Street Food Fair menu features:
· Sausages with Spicy Mustard
· Empanadas with Salsa Verde
· Pork, Manchego and Jalapeno Quesadillas with Chipotle Aioli
· Vegetarian Quesadilla
· Style-your-own Cazadores Bloody Maria Bar with a super-spicy ghost chili-infused tequila, a mild blanco tequila, three house-made mixers, and a variety of house-blended spice rims
· Traditional Margaritas from Cazadores

WHEN: Saturday, July 26, 1om-4pm
COST: $35/person; includes food, Cazadores Bloody Maria Bar, Cazadores Margaritas, non-alcoholic beverages, tax and gratuity. Beer and cash bar not included.

International Boston Seafood Show: Food of Interest

"Scallops are expensive, so they should be treated with some class. But then, I suppose that every creature that gives his life for our table should be treated with class."
--Jeff Smith

One of my anticipated pleasures of attending the International Boston Seafood Show is the opportunity to gorge myself on a smorgasbord of seafood, to partake of new products and old, of shellfish to sushi, fried  shrimp to smoked salmon. Exhibitors desire to entice potential purchasers to their booth so many offer samples of their foods. In addition, these exhibitors hope to ignite some positive press for their products. Most of them have been very open to me, sharing information, and I enjoy highlighting those foods which most enticed my palate.

I taste many different items at the show, enjoying the majority of them, but I only choose to mention a small number, those which especially appealed to me. I want to share with my readers the best of the best, some of the most compelling products at the show. With over 1800 exhibitors, I know I did not sample seafood from each and every booth, so I may have missed some exceptional foods. If you attended the Seafood Show, and have your own favorite samples, feel free to tell me about them in the comments.

There is a ton of salmon available for sampling at the show. Some of my favorites came from Spence & Co., Ltd., which primarily is a purveyor of smoked salmon though they currently sell over 80 products. The company was founded by a Alan Spence, a master smoker from Scotland. They produce smoked salmon in a traditional Scottish method, which gives it a more restrained smoky taste. Some of their more unique items, which I did not taste, include smoked salmon from New Zealand, which uses Manuka wood, and salmon from recipes by famed chef Charlie Trotter, such as the Darjeeling Tea & Ginger Cured Salmon.

Last month, the Japanese government placed unagi, the Japanese eel, on the Environment Ministry's Red List, listing it as Endangered. Catches have been at record lows, declining to about 5% of what were caught in the 1960s. Japan is the primary consumer of these eels, eating about 70% of the production.  percent of all eel produced worldwide. The Red List is more an advisory and does not create any legal regulation, so hopefully the government will take notice and actually do something to protect the unagi. To protect the unagi, it would be beneficial to find other sustainable fish which might closely replicate the taste of unagi.

Triad Fisheries, in Alaska, has created one such option, and I was impressed with the result. Their Alaska Sablefish Unagi Style recently won two Symphony of Seafood awards, including #1 2013 Foodservice & People's Choice Seattle. This product is wild Alaskan sablefish, with an unagi marinade, which is precooked and ready to heat and serve. First, I found this fish to be absolutely delicious. It seemed to share some of the texture of the unagi, which is important, and a bit of the taste. It may not be a perfect replication of unagi, but because it is so tasty, and has a similar texture, I think this would be a very good replacement.

Another Alaskan treat was the Aqua Cuisine Seafood Lit'l Sammies Smoked Salmon Cocktail Franks, which also won a Symphony of Seafood award for #1 2013 Smoked. These are made from 100% wild Alaskan Salmon and are all natural, with no artificial ingredients. They are low in fat, high in protein, and free of nitrite and nitrates. They had a nice texture, just a bit looser than a regular hot dog, and you definitely tasted the salmon and mild smokiness. They would make a great alternative for a cocktail party or tail gate party.

Almost hidden in the rear of the show, amidst a number of Korean booths, I stumbled upon HaeMatt Co., Ltd. which produces Korean Myeong-Ran, a roasted laver. You probably are more familiar with laver by its Japanese name, nori, which is often used to wrap sushi. In Korea, roasted lavery is associated with fertility and is often served at weddings. It may also be eaten as an appetizer or snack. This seasoned laver is made from laver, brown rice, pollock roe seasoning, perilla oil and sesame oil. Some chili pepper powder may have been added as well. I enjoyed the seasoned laver, which I found crunchy with a nice depth of seasoning though I did not find it spicy. I could see though how it might be an addictive snack. And you could always add your own hot spices.

Black Diamond Caviar, produced by Warbucks International Seafood, is produced in Louisiana and they make three different types. In general, the caviar costs about $50 for a 3.75 ounce jar. I believe that the caviar I tasted was from the bowfin, known locally as the choupique. It is a freshwater fish, more ancient than sturgeons, from Louisiana and their roe is naturally black. I liked the taste of this caviar, which had a mild brininess, no fishy aftertaste and has a silky smooth texture. A good, sustainable choice.

I love a good mussel, and the type of broth they are prepared in matters a lot. Canadian Cove produces Prince Edward Island Mussels, which are rope grown and sustainable. The mussels are good for your health too as they are low calorie, a good source of lean protein, and have plenty of Omega-3s, iron and Vitamin B12. The mussels were large and plump, cooked in a Sweet Thai broth, and really satisfied me. Fortunately, they also had slices of bread for dunking into the flavorful broth.

The British Columbia Pavilion offered samples of a number of different types of sustainable seafood. In British Colombia, they produce over 100 species of seafood, exporting about 80% and the U.S. receives about 57% of those exports. Salmon accounts for about 40% of all B.C. production. British Colombia is big on food safety, traceability and sustainability.

At the show, their chef was Nathan Fong, a food stylist, journalist, and TV personality, who was born in Vancouver. Next to Nathan, you may recognize Jacqueline Church, the Leather District Gourmet, who assisted Nathan at the show. Nathan spent lots of time preparing various dishes, showcasing the delicious seafood of British Columbia. I stopped by their booth several times to see what the next recipe might be. A luscious sablefish, caviar & scrambled eggs, uni, fried rockfish, and more. Overall, this ended up as the tastiest booth at the entire show, with an excellent variety of delicious seafood, prepared very well.

Salmon on a stick!

One of the treasures from the British Columbia booth was the Northern Divine Caviar. This is the first certified organic caviar in North America, from thirteen year old White Sturgeons. The company began producing caviar in 2011 but became a commercial entity in 2012. The sturgeon was raised in tanks on land and they produce only a few hundred kilos each year. They have been certified by Canadian Organic Aquaculture as well as Global Trust. Currently, they are sold mostly in Canada, though you can find it in the U.S. and they are seeking more distributors. It is pricey, at about $88 for 30 grams, but then caviar has never been an inexpensive luxury. The taste is exquisite, smooth, briny and buttery without any fishy aftertaste. One of the better caviars I have tasted in the last few years. And paired with even scrambled eggs, they make a great dish. Splurge and check out this caviar.

“The sea hath fish for every man.”
--William Camden

Yupiks, Kwik'pak Fisheries & Wild Yukon Salmon

As I mentioned yesterday, I recently attended “For The Health Of It,” a seminar and salmon tasting organized by Oldways Preservation Trust, a Boston-based "non-profit food issues think tank.” I concentrated yesterday on the health benefits of fish and today's post will discuss the rest of the fascinating and delicious event.

We began with a salmon tasting, including some superb smoked salmon. The salmon was moist, flavorful, and quite delicious. Different peoples in the Yukon area use varied woods when they smoke salmon, providing a different flavor profile to their products. I thus started off in a very good mood, pleased with the salmon.

There were then some brief opening remarks, including an interesting item about the history of salmon consumption. Most people are familiar with the famous Lascaux cave paintings in France. These Paleolithic images depict horses, stags, cattle, people and more. These caves though are located by a river known for salmon. In this area, middens, basically dumps for waste, have been found filled with 20-30 feet of salmon bones. Thus, salmon consumption has a long and ancient history.

After the lecture by Dr. Mozaffarian, the next speaker was Jack Schultheis, the General Manager of Kwik’pak Fisheries. Kwik’pak was formed in 2002 to protect and support the local communities, six villages, and fisheries of this remote region.

All of these fisheries are sustainable, certified by the Marine Stewardship Council. Kwik'pak is also a member of the Fair Trade Federation, the only seafood company with that distinction. In addition, Kwik'pak has a state-of-art processing plant in the village of Emmonak, so they can ensure the fish they ship is as fresh as possible.

The Yukon River is huge, about 2200 miles long, and at the delta, there are a number of small villages, home to Siberian Yupiks. They might be the oldest inhabitants of North America and originally settled here due to all the available food. The Yupik communities are small, family oriented. Families go fishing on 22-foot skiffs, so these are not large commercial fishermen. There are only about 700 family fishing permits in this are. Though 160-200 million salmon are caught each year in Alaska, only about 1 million are caught in the lower Yukon region.

The salmon they catch are primarily chum, also known as dog salmon or Keta salmon. Kwik'pak appears to be referring to them as mostly as Keta, likely as it sounds better than chum or dog. These Yukon salmon travel great distances, up to 2000 miles or more, from the Bering Sea to their spawning grounds in British Columbia. Interestingly, once the salmon reach the Yukon, they stop eating until they reach the spawning grounds. They load up on food before getting to the river, thus their bodies are stuffed with beneficial oils. The Yupik catch the salmon just as they enter the Yukon, when they are at their fattest.

There was then a cooking demonstration by Chefs Jeff Tenner and Pete Doire of Legal Sea Foods. As they could not cook here, they just showed us how they would prepare a couple dishes, including Brown Bag Salmon and Salmon Ceviche. We also received copies of the recipes so we could replicate them at home. The ceviche looked especially compelling.

Next up, there was a moderated Q&A with a few Yupik, including Ellen and Humphrey Keyes, and Matilda Oktoyuk. The Yupik live in the villages of Emmonak, Alakanuk, Grayling, Kotlik, Nunam Iqua and Mountain Village. Their motto is "We live to fish and fish to live." They largely live off the land, hunting, fishing and gathering. It is a hard life but Ellen, Humphrey and Matilda all seemed very happy with their lives, content with their existence. They really had no complaints. They were down-to-earth, humble and pleasant people.

Salmon is very important to their lives, and salmon season begins in June. This is almost the start of summer for the Yupik, as their cold weather continues into May. But the season lasts for only about six weeks, when the weather permits their small skiffs to safely traverse the waters. During that time period, they need to catch enough salmon to last them year round. On an average fishing day, a boat will bring in 200-300 fish.

The event finished up with more salmon tasting, good-sized pieces of moist fish with four different sauces. The blueberry sauce really was good, and went very well with the salmon.

Overall, this was a very compelling and informative event. Kwik'pak Fisheries is the type of company you should support, as it provides a sustainable and delicious product as well as helping a worthy community, the Yupik. Plus, the health benefits of the Yukon Keta salmon are enormous, and make it even more of an attractive product. The salmon will be available in the Boston area probably some time in June, and I highly recommend you check it out. It may be a bit pricier than other salmons, but I think it is well worth the added cost.

I will certainly seek out this salmon when it becomes available here.