Showing posts with label austria wines. Show all posts
Showing posts with label austria wines. Show all posts

Thursday, March 24, 2016

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I am back again with a new edition of Thursday Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting, upcoming food & drink events.
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1) Puritan & Co. Chef/Owner Will Gilson, Wine Director Peter Nelson and the restaurant’s talented team welcome Austrian winemakers Michael Reinisch and Michael Malat as their guests of honor at upcoming winemaker dinner. On Wednesday, April 27th, at 6:45pm, Puritan and Co. will host a special wine dinner with these Austrian winemakers. Each hailing from different regions of Austria, this winemaker dinner will be provide guests with an excellent introduction to both the red and white wines being produced across Austria.

Along with complementary dishes prepared by Chef Will Gilson and conversation about Austrian wine varietals, Michael Malat, of Kremstal, will be pouring tastes of 2010 Brut Reserve, 2012 Riesling “Steinbühel 1”, 2012 Grüner Veltliner “Höhlgraben,” and Michael Reinisch of Thermenregion will be pouring 2013 Rotgipfler, 2012 Spiegel Zierfandler, 2013 Pinot Noir, 2011 St. Laurnet.

Cost: Tickets are $95 plus tax and gratuity
For Reservations, please call (617)-615-6195.
Due to the limited number of seats, Puritan and Co. requires a $30 deposit per person. Puritan and Co. will call to confirm attendance on Saturday, April 23. If the reservation is cancelled after that time, and the space is not able to be reserved, a Puritan & Co. gift certificate will be issued in the amount of the deposit.

2)  Tico, Chef Michael Schlow's Latin American inspired Back Bay eatery, is launching Taco Tuesdays for all the taco lovers and happy hour hoppers in Boston. Guests 21 and older can enjoy 6 Tico tacos (your choice of pork or two textured beef) and 5 Coronitas for just $30.

WHEN: Every Tuesday starting March 22.

3) Anthem Kitchen + Bar in historic Faneuil Hall is launching Cheap Date Night Tuesdays starting April 5th. For $50 per couple, sweethearts can choose from three, 3-4 course dinner and dessert menus that won't break the bank. Featured wines will also be served without the high price tag: $32 a bottle and $8 a glass.

Menus include:
Taste of New England
1st Course: Warm House Made Chips with spicy onion dip
2nd Course: New England Clam Chowder, two-time Boston Chowderfest winner!
3rd Course: Fish + Chips served with french fries, tartar sauce, and coleslaw
4th Course: Duo of Creme Brulee

Our Favorites
1st Course: Really Good Fried Pickles with chipotle aioli
2nd Course: Chopped Caesar Salad with smoked bacon, hard cooked egg, fried capers, herb croutons & grated parmesean
3rd Course: Faroe Island Salmon with snap peas, crispy rice cake, edamame puree + chili-orange mustard glaze
4th Course: Fried Twinkie

To Share
1st Course: 4 Cheese Fondue For Two with toasted ciabatta bread
2nd Course: Fig + Prosciutto Pizza, poached figs, tomato, arugula + parmesean
3rd Course: Dessert Pizza, hazelnut cocoa spread, caramelized bananas + toasted marshmallows

Featured Wines: Cabernet, Pinor Nior, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay

4) Chef Dan Bazzinotti and the BISq team is pleased to announce that they have decided to extend Dollar Oyster days to Sunday through Wednesday, from 5:30pm-12am. On those nights, guests can now enjoy fresh, local oysters for just one dollar each from when the restaurant opens until they run out. Great news for oyster lovers and I'm sure you can find numerous wines on their intriguing wine list to pair with those oysters.

5) Boston Bakes for Breast Cancer, Inc., a non-profit dedicated to raising funds for breast cancer research and care, is excited to announce that Shaun Velez, pastry chef at Deuxave, will be the spokesperson for this year’s event- raising funds for Dr. Heather Parsons, MD, MPH, a promising, young breast cancer researcher at Dana-Farber Cancer institute.

Every year, Boston Bakes for Breast Cancer enlists restaurants, bakeries, and retail stores, across Massachusetts to participate in its weeklong event to raise funds for deserving, young breast cancer researchers. From May 2 to May 8, 2016, participating restaurants will either designate 100% sales of one specific dessert or 50 percent of proceeds from their entire dessert menu to support the research of Dr. Heather Parsons, MD, MPH.

Through our partnership with restaurants, bakeries, and stores, we have raised almost $1 million for breast cancer research and care. This year, funds raised will be used to fund exciting research by Dr. Heather A. Parsons, MD, MPH, who is at the forefront of research at Dana-Farber Cancer Institute,” Founder and President Carol Sneider said. “Funding research for this indiscriminate disease is so important, particularly as funding from the National Institute of Health decreases and young researchers are overlooked for funding or grants.”

Breast Cancer affects one in eight women, some with family history of breast cancer, and some without. Last year, over 230,000 women were diagnosed with breast cancer and almost 40,00 of those died from the disease.

Friday, December 12, 2014

2014: Favorite Wine-Related Items

What were some of my favorite wine related items of the past year?

Let me continue the lists of my best recommendations and favorites of 2014. I have already posted my Top Ten Wines Under $15Top Ten Wines Over $15 and Top Ten Wines Over $50 lists. This post will now concentrate on some of my Favorite Wine-Related Items, which are not specific wine recommendations. This is certainly not a complete list but it is more a sampling of compelling and memorable matters I have experienced and posted about over the past year.

This is also a purely subjective list, based on my own preferences, and makes no claims about being the "best" of anything. But all of the items here have earned my strong recommendations and I hope you will enjoy them as well. For more wine related items, you can just search my blog posts for the past year.

Favorite Wines Analysis: In my three prior Top Ten Wine lists, I mentioned a total of 42 wines, which included wines from 12 different countries. At the top was France, with 10 wines, four of them from the Alsace region. In second place was Portugal with 8 wines and third place went to Spain with 7 wines. About 60% of my picks came from just these three countries. Uruguay made a strong showing with 5 wines, and the Hudson Valley of New York had 3 wines on the lists. Chile, with two wines on the list, was the only other country with multiple listings. The rest of the lists included wines from Argentina, Austria, California, Croatia, Italy, Lebanon, and South Africa,

Favorite Discount Wine Stores: Consumers always want bargains, excellent value wines which won't stretch their wallets. You can buy the cheap, mass-produced commercial wines which can be found in almost any wine store or instead, you can seek out excellent, value wines which put to shame those cheap wines. Certain discount wine stores provide not only excellent prices but also an interesting selection and good service. I want to highlight three such stores which continue to do an especially good job, places where I go to seek bargains: Bin Ends in Braintree & Needham, Wine Connextion in North Andover, and Rapid Liquors in Stoneham. Shop at any of those stores and you won't be disappointed.

Favorite Wine Stores: This is a small list of wine stores which consistently impress me with their selection and service. Each shop is worthy of your patronage and wine lovers should make the effort to visit these places if you have not done so yet.
Lower Falls Wine Company in Newton Lower Falls
Winestone in Chestnut Hill
Vintages: Adventures in Wine in Belmont
Wine-Sense in Andover
Wine Bottega in Boston's North End
Central Bottle Wine & Provisions in Cambridge
Beacon Hill Wine & Gourmet in Melrose (where I also work part-time)

Favorite Wine Magazine: For the sixth year in a row, Decanter, a British wine magazine, continues to impress me with its extensive coverage, including many less common wine regions, often ignored or marginalized in other wine publications. Plus it has an amusing wine cartoon in every issue. This is a magazine that consistently delivers fascinating articles and I always look forward to each issue. If you are not reading it, you should be.

Favorite Wine Book: A comprehensive book about Spanish Rioja, The Wine Region of Rioja by Ana Fabiano, is an excellent resource. It possesses great photography, is easy to read, and provides lots of insight into the wine makers of Rioja. My favorite sidebar of the book was "Voice of the Vintners" which provides quotes from about 30 different wineries on Tempranillo. There is such poetry in those quotes, and they provide a fascinating insight into Rioja. If you read those two pages alone, I think you would actually have a nice grasp of Rioja.

Runner-Up Favorite Wine Book: An excellent introduction to the wondrous world of Sherry, I highly recommend Sherry: A Modern Guide to the Wine World's Best-Kept Secret, with Cocktails and Recipes by Talia Baiocchi. It is an easily understood exploration of everything from how Sherry is produced to a listing of Bodegas and recommended Sherries. There are also plenty of Sherry cocktail recipes and some food recipes as well. I love Sherry and it is great to see others advocating for it as well.

Favorite Wine Dinner: For the second year in a row, an Alsatian wine dinner was selected for this category. Compelling wines, superb food, and great people all combined to create an exceptional experience at Puritan & Co. As usual, the fine wines of Alsace impressed, showing diversity, complexity and value. In addition, three wines from this dinner were mentioned in my Favorite Wine lists. I'd never been to Puritan before, and the food more than satisfied. I'm eager to return to try more dishes from their menu.

Runner-Up Favorite Wine Dinner: At Alden & Harlow, I dined with Cristóbal Undurraga Marimón, co-owner and winemaker at Viña Koyle, a Chilean winery. Superb food, excellent wines, and plenty of stimulating conversation. It was also my first time at Alden & Harlow, and it too was impressive, from the Chicken Fried Rabbit to the delectable Lamb. Two of the Viña Koyle wines ended up on my Favorite Wine lists.

Favorite Private Wine Dinner: My vacation in Las Vegas this past summer, with several good friends, was excellent, and we ate and drank quite well. Our dinner at Sage was exceptional, with compelling food and wines, two of which ended up on my Favorite Wine lists. The wine list had plenty of intriguing choices, and the mark-up actually was fairly reasonable. The Sommelier knew his wines well, and the group of us thoroughly enjoyed the experience.

Favorite Wine Lunch: Taberna de Haro has the best Spanish wine list in the Boston, as well as the largest Sherry list. They make excellent Spanish cuisine as well, and this all combined for a special lunch showcasing the amazing Sherries of Alexander Jules, all three which ended up on my Favorite Wine lists. Sitting outside, we savored the Sherries and tapas while enjoying pleasant and interesting conversation. It almost felt like we were transported to the streets of Barcelona.

Favorite Large-Scale High-End Tasting: The Vintner's Reserve Lounge at the Boston Wine Expo presented an impressive selection of high-end wines, with plenty of tasty food. It was a major improvement over the last few Vintner's Reserve Lounges that I had attended. There were about 100 wines available for tasting, and it was a more leisurely tasting, without the large crowds that attend the Grand Tasting. Some of the wines from this event ended up on my Favorite Wine lists this year.

Favorite Large-Scale Tasting: The Mohegan Sun WineFest is a large, consumer wine event, which also showcases beer and spirits. In addition, there is plenty of food available at the event, to cleanse your palate and fill your belly. Its location, within a major casino, is also a plus, giving you plenty to do after the tasting is over. Several wines from this event have ended up on my Favorite Wine lists this year, which happens nearly every year.

Favorite Regional Wine Tasting: The Wines of Uruguay was such a delicious and informative event, a chance to try nearly 80 wines from 16 different wineries. Uruguay is an upcoming region which has previously been drinking most of their own wine. As their exports increase, you'll see their wines more and more on local shelves, and that is a very good thing. Sparkling, whites, reds and more. Lots of diversity, at all price points, and their signature grape, Tannat, is producing some amazing wines.

Runner-Ups of Favorite Regional Wine Tasting: The Austrians Like Them Young and Wines of Portugal tastings were also very worthy events. The Austrian wine event presented some nice comparison tastings of red wines made from indigenous grapes such as Zweigelt, Blaufränkisch and St. Laurent. The Portugal tasting presented about 200 wines, of all types, and offered a great overview of the wonders of Portuguese wine, from Vinho Verde to Port. Both events have wines on my Favorite Wine lists.

Favorite Twitter Wine Tasting: At a Twitter wine tasting, people from all over the world drink the same wines and then discuss them at the same time on Twitter. I have been participating in these tastings for years, and they can be lots of fun. The Crémant d'Alsace & The Spartans At Thermopylae presented four delicious Crémant sparkling wines, and plenty of interesting conversation on Twitter. Alsatian Crémant may not be on your radar but it should, offering excellent taste at a very good value.

Most Unique Wine Tasting
: While in the Hudson Valley, at one of the grand tastings, I got to sample the wines from Pazdar Winery, which included two chocolate wines! Previously, the chocolate wines I have tasted have seemed artificial and overly sweet. However, these were actually tasty and interesting wines, with real chocolate and a restrained sweetness. These aren't your normal type of wine, but they are well made and would appeal to many people.

Favorite Private Wine Tasting: My good friend Adam, of Wine Zag, hosts a monthly blind tasting event which is always fun and interesting. A group of 15-18 people are assembled, and we taste through about twelve wines, usually with some type of theme. From Champagne to Southern Italian reds, the themes range wide and the wines themselves range in price and style. The attendees include wine newcomers and more knowledgeable tasters, but there is a lack of pretension and the casual atmosphere is one of fun and discovery. This is the third year in a row this tasting has garnered this honor.

Favorite Wine Trip, Domestic
: This year's TasteCamp was held in the Hudson Valley of New York. It was informative and fun, and I discovered plenty of interesting wines and spirits. The region is beautiful and it was great to visit this developing wine region, which also possesses a rich and vibrant history. TasteCamp always does a good job of showcasing different wine regions, and this year was no different. Wines and spirits from this trip have ended up on my Favorite lists.

Favorite Winery Visit: While in the Hudson Valley region, our visit to the Hudson-Chatham Winery was a major highlight. Carlo Devito, owner of the winery, was an excellent host, leading us through a tasting of their wines, giving a tour of their solera, and feeding us lunch, including plenty of sliders. We saw Carlo's passion, and also saw the potential of hybrid grapes, such as Baco Noir. If you visit this region, you must stop at this winery.

Changes To Local Wine Laws: Last year, I wrote about two major legal issues, concerning wine, that took the spotlight in Massachusetts. Those issues involved shipping wine and removing the cap on liquor licenses. This year, positive progress was made on both issues, and hopefully that means additional positive changes will occur in 2015. First, in Rant: More Liquor Licenses Coming, I discussed how more liquor licenses were coming to Boston, and I hope these new licenses breathe life into certain neighborhoods. Second, in Rant: Caveats of Direct Wine Shipping, I explained how the new law allowing U.S. wineries to ship to Massachusetts is good news in some respects, but that there is still much more than needs to be done. Things are better this year for Massachusetts wine lovers, but let us hope it continues to improve.

My Wine Honor: In November, I received a great honor, being inducted as a Knight in the Brotherhood of Port Wine. The rank of Cavaleiro (Knight) is given to those who “have made a significant contribution to the understanding and prestige of Port Wine.” Only 13 people were inducted as Cavaleiros at the ceremony, and there are about 1300 worldwide. I took an oath to defend the honor of Port wine, so you can look forward to more articles about Port in 2015.

What were some of your favorite wine-related items this year?

Tuesday, December 9, 2014

2014: Top Ten Wines Over $15

What were some of my favorite wines of the past year?

Welcome to my second Top Ten Wine List. Yesterday, I posted my Top Ten Wines Under $15, which I hope you enjoyed and found useful. Now it is time for my Top Ten Wines Over $15, though these wines also cost less than $50. In actuality, I have listed twelve wines, pairing three similar ones together from the same importer.

Like the prior list, this list includes wines that not only did I enjoy, but which I also found to be particularly compelling for various reasons. They might be especially delicious, something more unique or just excellent values for the price. They all stand out, for some particular reason, above the other wines at this price point that I have tasted this past year.

This is a purely subjective list, based on my own preferences, and makes no claims about being the "best" wines out there. It is primarily the wines which spoke to me the loudest, even when they were subtle wines. These are all wines that I highly recommend and which I believe many other wine lovers will also enjoy.

The wines are not listed in any particular order and each choice is linked to my more detailed prior review. All of these wines are worth your consideration but please also note that the prices are approximations and the actual price may vary in your area. In addition, some of the wines might not be available in your local area, though you might be able to order them from the winery or an online store, dependent on your state's shipping laws.

1)  NV Vermut LaCuesta ($20)
At the Mohegan Sun WineFest, one of my favorite wines of the entire event was this impressive Spanish Vermouth. Tempranillo is the base of this fortified wine, and it presented with an intriguing herbal taste with only mild bitter elements and hints of sweetness. I tasted some of it on its own, as well as in a glass with ice, and in both instances, it was impressive. It is well balanced, and would be delicious on its own or in a cocktail. Highly recommended.

2) 2010 Inspiracion Valdemar Tempranillo Blanco ($30)
Made from 100% Tempranillo Blanco, a mutation of Tempranillo and only discovered relatively recently, this Spanish wine was aged on the lees in first year French oak. With a dark gold color, this wine had aromas and flavors of tropical fruits, accompanied by hints of honey, herbs and a touch of citrus. It possessed a very intriguing taste, good acidity and a long,pleasing finish. It is a wine to slowly sip and savor, though it pairs well with food too. A stunner of a wine.

3) Alexander Jules Sherries ($45)
Alexander Jules, kind of a negociant company, seeks out special Spanish sherry barrels, creating fascinating blends. I tasted their first three sherries, the Fino 22/85, Manzanilla 17/71, and Amontillado 6/26. All three were stunning examples, presenting plenty of complex and delicious flavors. These are Sherries to slowly enjoy each delectable taste, relishing the wonders found within each glass. I placed these three together because they are all special, share similar characteristics, and showcase the palate of the company's owner, Alexander Russan. These are the best sherries I have tasted all year.

4) Quinta de Santa Eufemia 10 Year Old White Port ($30)
A blend of Malvasia Fina, Gouveio, Moscatel Galego, and Rabigato, this aged White Port, a rare category, has a beautiful amber color. It possesses an alluring nose of floral and herbal notes, and on the palate the taste is complex and intriguing, a bit of an oxidative style. It has a tough of honeyed sweetness though it finishes dry, and the finish lingers long in your mouth. It is surely a Port to slowly savor, enjoying the multitude of flavors that pass over your palate.

5) 2008 José Maria da Fonseca Domini Plus ($40)
A blend of 65% Touriga Franca, 20% Tinta Roriz, & 15% Touriga Nacional, this Portuguese red wine spends about 12 months in new French oak. It possesses plenty of complexity and flavor, creating an elegant and enticing wine, that is still powerful yet restrained. This is a perfectly balanced wine, one to slowly sip and savor, thinking on everything to be found within your glass. It is an amazing wine, well worth the price, and which might cost twice as much in any other wine region.

6) 2011 Moric Blaufränkisch Reserve ($45)
This is am Austrian wine which stunned me with its complex pleasures. Each sip seemed to bring out different elements, from its blend of red and black fruits, to its strong minerality. There are intriguing notes of spice, herbs and even chocolate. The tannins are moderate but not overwhelming, and the wine lingers for quite a long time on your palate. One glass won't be enough for you, and this is a wine to impress your friends. Highly recommended.

7) Dopff et Irion NV Crémant D'Alsace Brut Rosé ($17)
This Alsatian Brut Rosé is made from 100% Pinot Noir and I likened it to a dish of strawberries and cream. Though dry and crisp, there was a rich creaminess to the wine, with plenty of delicious red fruit flavors, including plenty of strawberry. Complex and with a lingering finish, I found this to be a compelling wine, as well as an excellent value for the price.

8) 2012 Vina Koyle Gran Reserva Carmenere ($16.99)
This Chilean wine is a blend of 86.5% Carmenere, 8% Malbec, 3% Cabernet Franc, and 2.5% Petite Verdot. With a nose of black fruit and spice, I found this to be an elegant wine, with a delicious melange of black fruit, spice, minerality and hints of tobacco. It was silky smooth, with a long, satisfying finish. At this price, it is a good value for its complexity and quality.

9) 2013 Hudson-Chatham Baco Noir Old Vines ($18.95)
Made from 60 year old vines, this wine is made in Hudson Valley, New York, and was complex and intriguing, presenting a delicious melange of flavors, including ripe plum, blueberry, black cherry, vanilla and baking spices. It possessed a silky feel, was well balanced and had a lingering and pleasing finish. It may be a hybrid grape, but that shouldn't deter you from enjoying the high quality of this compelling wine.

10) 2012 Fausse Piste "Garde Manger" Syrah ($25)
A blend of Syrah from five vineyards in the Columbia Valley, there might be a tiny percentage of Viognier too. From your first sniff of the aromas of this wine, you'll probably be hooked. It possesses an alluring nose, a complex blend of appealing aromas, including lush fruit and a prominent earthiness. It brought to my mind wines from the Rhône. The taste of this wine lived up to the promise of its nose, and initially you'll be impressed by the depth of flavor within this wine, the complex melange of flavors that will flood your mouth, seducing your palate. Black fruit, spice, earthiness, minerality, and even more can be found within each sip. Silky tannins lead to a lengthy and satisfying finish. Everything is in balance in this wine, and it is absolutely compelling.

This is always my toughest list to compile because there are numerous other excellent wines which I could have added. I had to ponder long over which wines to actually select for the main list, meaning that I had to eliminate other worthy wines. To give some credit to those other worthy wines, for the second year in a row, I am adding an Honorable Mention list, to reference those other wines which nearly made my Top Ten list.

Honorable Mention
2011 Planeta Cerasuolo Di Vittoria Dorilli DOCG ($32.99)
2009 Cedro Do Noval ($22)
2013 Prieuré de Montézargues Tavel Rosé ($20)
NV Willm Cremant d'Alsace Blanc de Noirs Brut ($16)
Spain occupies the most spots on my Top Ten list, with three spots and five wines. Potugal, with two spots, is the only other region which occupied multiple spots. The other regions represented include Austria, Alsace, Chile, California and New York. The list is also broken down into 1 Sparkling Wine, 1 White, 5 Reds and 5 Fortified Wines. If you look at the Honorable Mentions, you'll find wines from Italy, Portugal, France, Alsace, New York, Uruguay, and Spain.

I have plenty of other recommendations for wines at this price point on my blog. There are top notch wines from countries all over the world, made from an incredibly diverse selection of grapes and you can still find plenty of values too. My advice is that you seek out wines outside of your comfort zone. Explore the multitude of diversity in the wonderful world of wine. Taste and try anything new, unique or potentially interesting.  I am sure your search will lead to new favorites.

If you have some of your own recommendations for wines that are over $15 but under $50, please add them to the comments.

Friday, July 25, 2014

Austrians Like Them Young

At a media event at the Island Creek Oyster Bar, I learned that many Austrians like them young, and by "them," I mean their wines. Many of them don't have the patience to let wines sit in their cellars. They want their wines to be fresh and young, ready to drink as soon as it is bottled. This is a generalization, and certainly not applicable to all Austrians, but it is common throughout Austria.

The Austrian Trade Commission in New York and the Burgenland Wine Marketing Board came to Boston and presented a trade seminar and tasting on Austrian red wines. We learned plenty about the Austrian wine industry, and had a chance to taste a number of wines from indigenous Austrian grapes, such as Zweigelt, Blaufränkisch and St. Laurent. I've enjoyed such wines before, and this tasting only confirmed to me the delights of Austrian red wines. This is another category of wines which many consumers do not appreciate sufficiently. At the wine store where I work, it is extremely rare for a customer to ask for an Austrian red.

Overall, Austria produces annually about 250 million liters of wine, which is also about the same amount they consume each year. They export 50-70 million liters of their wine, but import a similar amount. The country has about 46,000 hectares of vineyards, generally located in the eastern side of Austria, and over 6000 bottling estates, roughly three times as many estates as there are in Australia. 35 grape varieties, 22 white and 13 red, are legally permitted and Grüner Veltliner is the most planted grape, occupying about 29% of the vineyards. White grapes in total occupy about 66% of the vineyards.

As for red grapes, Zweigelt occupies the largest portion, about 14% of the acreage. Second place, at 7%, is occupied by Blaufränkisch and third place, at 3.5%, is taken by Blauer Portugieser. All of the other ten red grapes occupy 1% or less. In general, Austrian red wines tend to have dark red colors, deep aromas, black fruit flavors and be well structured.

Zweigelt (also known as Rotburger) is a cross of Blaufränkisch and St. Laurent that was created in 1922 by Dr. Fritz Zweigelt. It is a fertile grape which grows well all over Austria. With a good yield, soft tannins and being an early ripening grape, it appeals to the Austrian preference for young wines. As the indigenous Blaufränkisch usually requires some aging, Austrians apparently wanted an alternative, which thus led to the creation of Zweigelt.

Blaufränkisch (also known as Lemberger) is an old variety, which can possess lots of acidity, spiciness, strong tannins and has an excellent ageing potential. In addition, it can be very reflective of its terroir. St. Laurent, a descendant of Pinot Noir, is a challenging grape in the vineyard, often low yielding. The older the St. Laurent, the more it seems to resemble Pinot Noir.

Our tasting basically was broken down into two flights, the first being wines, produced from indigenous grapes, that tended to be more fruity and easy drinking. The second flight were all produced from Blaufränkisch, intended to show the effects of different terroirs on this grape.

From the first flight, two wines stood out to me, one from Zweigelt and the other from St.Laurent. The 2010 Netzl Zweigelt ($18) had an intense, fruity aroma and on the palate, the bright red fruit flavors shined, accompanied by spicy notes, a bit of earthiness, smooth tannins, and a lengthy, pleasing finish. Good complexity for this price point, but also an easy drinking wine, which can be enjoyed on its own or with food. The 2011 Juris St. Laurent Selection ($26.95) possessed an intriguing smoky aroma, accented by black fruit. Its taste included a nice melange of black cherry, blackberry, dark spices, and earthiness, with moderate tannins and a lengthy finish. A wine of more depth than the Zweigelt, it probably would be best paired with a hearty dish, maybe a nice steak or even wild boar.

The Blaufränkisch flight was fascinating, showing how wines from this grape can differ dependent on terroir. In general, I enjoyed most of the wines in this flight, and believe that these are essentially food wines, especially because of their strong tannins. Black fruits and spicy notes were common to these wines, though, individually, some possessed elements of minerality, earthiness, or smokiness. What this means for the average consumer is that you can find diversity in Austrian Blaufränkisch, that it isn't a wine of a singular taste profile. More advanced wine lovers can revel in the differences of these wines from varied terroirs.

The 2011 Iby Blaufränkisch Classic was the easiest drinking of the wines, with bright red fruit flavors, blueberry notes and some mild spiciness. The tannins were the mildest of the group, though the finish was also the shortest. However, this would be an excellent introductory Blaufränkisch for anyone. The 2011 Prieler Blaufränkisch Leithaberg DAC impressed me with its complexity and taste. Delicious black fruit flavors, mild spiciness and smoky elements with an underlying minerality. With a lengthy finish, this is a wine you want to slowly savor. Highly recommended. An earthier choice is the 2011 Iby Blaufränkisch Hochäcker, definitely very different from their Classic. With more spice and black fruits, the earthy aspects dominate, reminding me of some Burgundies. Another hearty recommendation.

My favorite wine of the tasting was the 2011 Moric Blaufränkisch Reserve ($45-$50), which stunned me with its complex pleasures. Each sip seems to bring out different elements, from its blend of red and black fruits, to its strong minerality. There are intriguing notes of spice, herbs and even chocolate. The tannins are moderate but not overwhelming, and the wine lingers for quite a long time on your palate. One glass won't be enough for you, and the bottle will be empty far too quickly. This is a wine to impress your friends, and I highly recommend it.

Give some Austrian Zweigelt, St.Laurent and Blaufränkisch a try. Go to your local wine store and ask what Austrian reds they carry. Go to your local restaurants and ask what Austrian reds they have on their wine list.

What's your favorite Austrian red wine?

Wednesday, June 18, 2014

Bronwyn Restaurant: Schnitzel, Spatzle, & Stickum

I've long felt that T.W. Food, owned by Tim and Bronwyn Wiechmann, is one of the most underappreciated restaurants in the Boston area. When many people discuss the best restaurants in the area, T.W. Food doesn't often seem to garner a mention, despite being more than worthy for the accolade. Their new restaurant, Bronwyn, though seems to be getting much more attention and press. And once again, I believe they have created a winning restaurant.

Bronwyn, located in the Union Square region of Somerville, features the cuisine and drinks of Germany and greater Central and Eastern Europe. The restaurant has a patio, their biergarten, an inside bar area, and a dining room. Last week, Adam (of Wine Zag) and I stopped there for dinner after a Cognac tasting. It was our first time dining there, but certainly won't be the last. We sat at the bar, sampling several dishes and tasting some of the cocktails and wine offerings. We were both impressed and look forward to checking out the rest of the menu.

They have a full liquor license so you can order one of their special cocktails, priced $9-$12, or a Haus Cocktail, which are numbered 1-9, and priced $10-$12. I began the meal with an Eins Haus Cocktail, which contains Old Overholt Rye, Nux Alpina Walnut, Dolin Rouge Vermouth, Boston Bittahs, and St. Elizabeth Allspice. A spicy and complex cocktail, it was a strong way to start the evening.

The Drinks Menu also contains over 40 beers, from Austria, Czech Republic, Germany, Italy, Poland, Switzerland, and the US, with plenty to intrigue and please the beer lover. There are around 11 wines available by the glass ($8-$12) and about 34 by the bottle. The bottled wines, with a good portion under $50, generally come from Germany, Austria, Italy, and Slovenia. You'll find Zweigelt and Blaufrankisch, Riesling and Gruner Veltliner, and plenty of other interesting wines.

The Food Menu begins with a Prix Fixe option, 4 Courses for $45 per person ($29 for Beer & Wine pairing). There are then about 10 Starters ($5-$12), 9 Mains ($17-$32), 4 Sides ($5 each), and Haus-Made Wurst (Mini plate for $14 with 2 sausages, potatoes, sauer krat or the Giant plate for $27 with 6 sausages). There are some specials, including their own take on the Burger and Hot Dog. Despite all the emphasis on meat, there are even vegetarian and vegan options. In addition, they serve Brunch on the weekends.

After enjoying a cocktail, we had a glass of the 2013 Schloss Gobelsburg, “Cistercian,” Rosé ($11), made primarily from Zweigelt though a bit of St.Laurent may have been added. It was crisp, clean and dry with subtle red fruit flavors, reminding me of Provence-style Rosé.  Delicious and easy drinking, this is an excellent food wine too.

As for Starters, we began with the Pierogi ($11), two large house-made Pierogi, filled with ham and cheddar cheese, and topped by a sweet pea relish and mint. With a crispy, fried exterior, the interior fillings were creamy and flavorful. This dish is certainly different from other pierogi dishes I have eaten, but there's nothing wrong with that.

Another Starter, which is not on their online menu, was Coppa atop toasted bread with red onions. Another tasty dish, the coppa was tender, with just enough saltiness and spice, and was like an open faced sandwich. This would have made an excellentt lunch sandwich.

We also had a Mini Wurst Plate ($14) with a couple sausages, accompanied by a side, the Gurken Salat ($5). I actually don't recall which sausages we got, but I remember they both were delicious, though different. One was a more traditional sausage, while the other was round, almost like a mini-sausage patty. The potatoes with the sausages had a crunchy exterior, but were soft and fluffy inside. The Gurken Salat were essentially thinly sliced pickles, and were addictive.

We moved on to a bottle of the the 2010 Movia Rebula ($63), produced from 100% Ribolla from vines that have an average age of 66 years. This is an intriguing "orange" wine, with a complex blend of minerality, spice, apricot, apple and more. It is crisp with a lengthy and pleasing finish. I have enjoyed a number of other Movia wines, but this Rebula was new to me. It is an impressive wine, and paired well with the food to come, especially the white anchovies!

Moving onto Mains, the Schnitzel à la Holstein ($24) had two pork schnitzels topped by a garbanzo bean ragoût, a soft boiled egg, capers and white anchovies. The pork was tender and flavorful, with a nice crunch to the coating, and its flavor was enhanced by the egg. A hearty dish, this should satisfy most diners.

I was especially impressed with the Spätzle ($19), a classic Schwabian pasta with asparagus, red onion marmalade, and Comté cheese. Great comfort food, with perfectly cooked pasta and plenty of melted cheese enhancing the dish. If I had eaten only this Spätzle, I would have been more than satisfied. This is a dish I highly recommend.

The Dessert Menu has 4 choices ($8 each), and we ordered the German Chocolate Cake, which has almonds, coconut, and a vanillensauce. Sweet and decadent, this is a fine way to end your meal. A nice blend of flavors and textures, it is worth saving a bit of room after your meal to order this dish. And it is large enough to share.


With dessert, we tried the Stickum Uerigea fascinating beer eau-de-vie, also known as "beer brandy" or "bierschnaps." Bronwyn carries three of their products, the Stickum Uerige, Original ($22), Stickum Uerige, Château d’Yquem Barrel ($25) and Stickum Uerige Plus, Port Wine Oak Barrel ($27). These are very limited production spirits, and it seems they commonly sell for $150-$200 a bottle, which explains the price per glass.

The Château d’Yquem still possesses a flavor of beer, combined with notes of honey, dried fruit and floral elements. My preference was the Port Wine, which had almost no beer flavor, but plenty of concentration, depth and complexity. It does show Port wine characteristics, but you also realize that it is more than Port. There is enough acidity to balance the sweetness, and this may be my new favorite method of drinking beer.

Overall, I had an excellent dinner at Bronwyn, and very much look forward to dining there again. The flavors are compelling, the drinks are interesting, and service was excellent. I think the food is fairly priced for the quantity and quality. Check out Bronwyn for some Schnitzel, Spatzle, & Stickum!

Bronwyn on Urbanspoon

Monday, December 10, 2012

2012: Top Ten Wines Over $15

What were some of my favorite wines of the past year?

Welcome to my second Top Ten Wine List. Last Friday, I posted my Top Ten Wines Under $15, which I hope you enjoyed and found useful. Now it is time for my Top Ten Wines Over $15, though these wines also cost less than $50.

Like the prior list, it includes wines that during the past year I have enjoyed very much and which I also found to be particularly compelling for various reasons. They might be especially delicious, something more unique or just excellent values for the price. They all stand out for some particular reason above the other wines I tasted this past year.

This is a purely subjective list, based on my own preferences, and makes no claims about being the "best" wines out there. It is primarily the wines which spoke to me the loudest, even when they were subtle wines. These are all wines that I highly recommend and which I believe many other wine lovers will also enjoy.

The wines are not listed in any particular order and each choice is linked to my more detailed prior review. All of these wines are worth your consideration but please also note that the prices are approximations and the actual price may vary in your area. In addition, some of the wines might not be available in your local area, though you might be able to order them from the winery or an online store, dependent on your state's shipping laws.

1) 2010 Tikal Natural Malbec ($20)
Produced by Ernesto Catena in Argentina, this wine is made from 100% Malbec, certified organic grapes, and the vineyard is moving toward becoming Biodynamic. The wine spent about a year in oak, mostly second-use French oak, with a small portion of American oak. With a dark purple color, the flavors of the wine burst into your mouth, a pleasant blend of ripe plum, dark cherry, intense spice and bits of mocha. The tannins are moderate, there is good acidity, and the finish is long and satisfying. A hearty fine that will pair well with hearty food, from Bolognese to short ribs.

2) 2006 Eder Raubern Single Vineyard Grüner Veltliner ($17-$20)
The Eder winery, in Austria, is small, possessing about 12 hectares of vineyards and produces only about 20,000 bottles annually. The Raubern is a single vineyard wine that thoroughly impressed me. The melange of flavors fascinated me with their complexity, with plenty of spice and floral notes, yet still with noticeable stone fruit components. Despite its age, this seemed still very fresh and it was a clear winner, sure to please any wine lover. An excellent value at this price point.

3) 2009 Willamette Valley Vineyards Estate Pinot Noir ($43.99)
In general, I enjoy Oregon Pinot Noirs and some are superb. This wine was a stunner, subtle and seductive as well as elegant and complex. The melange of flavors ranged from bright cherry to ripe plum, from cinnamon to black pepper. You need to slowly sip and savor this wine, to perceive all of the diverse flavors within. Well balanced, this wine provides an alluring finish that seems to caress your palate with silk, lingering long within your mouth. A killer wine, I highly recommend this one.

4) 2011 Prieure de Montezargues Tavel Rosé ($20)
This is one of my favorite French Rosé wines, and the 2011 is equally as good as the previous year. The Rosé is a blend of 8 grapes, including 55% Grenache (red & white), 30% Cinsault, 13% Clairette, and 2% Others (Syrah, Mourvedre, Carignan & Bourboulanc). It is produced through pressing and underwent stainless steel fermentation and then a short term of aging on the lees. It was a pale pink color, crisp, dry and elegant. Delicious and complex tastes of cherry, strawberry, and grapefruit with a mineral backbone. You should drink this Rosé year round.

5) 2008 Felsina Chianti Classico Riserva Rancia ($35-$45)
One of my favorite wines from my Chianti Classico trip, the Rancia is made from 100% Sangiovese, all from a single vineyard named Rancia. That vineyard derives its name from a historic farm that once was a Benedictine monastery. The wine was barrel aged for 16-18 months in new and one year old 225-liter oak barrels and then spent an additional 6-8 months aging in the bottle. The Rancia possessed an alluring smell, a melange of wonderful aromas that beckoned to me like a siren. It was a traditional style, with a delightful earthy component, and a compelling taste of black cherry, blueberry, violets, spice, and hints of leather. It was elegant and intriguing, with a lengthy, satisfying finish. Just a superb wine.

6) 2011 Halter Ranch Cotes de Paso Blanc ($24)
Paso Robles seems to be a great region for  Rhône grapes and this Halter Ranch wine is an enticing Southern Rhône blend of 33% Grenache, 26% Roussanne, 20% Picpoul Blanc, 12% Marsanne, and 9% Viognier. It was fermented in French oak, stirred twice a week to mix in the lees, and doesn't undergo malolactic fermentation. The aroma was spectacular, a complex and harmonious melange of floral, fruit and herb notes, all of which also came out on the palate. Peaches, lemons, melons, white flowers, minerality and so much more. Well balanced, complex, a lengthy and satisfying finish, and excellent acidity. A highly recommended wine.

7) 2004 Rodano Viacosta Chianti Classico Riserva ($30)
This is another winner from Chianti Classico. The winery produces traditional style Chianti Classico and I was impressed with all of their wines I tasted. The Viacosta was a stand out, made from 100% Sangiovese that was aged for about 24 months, 60% in French oak and 20% of that is new. It had an alluring aroma and on the palate it was stunning. Complex, elegant, rustic, spicy, and with a lengthy and pleasing finish. A great food wine, this should be in your wine cellar.

8) 2011 Blomidon Estate Winery Rosé ($15.99)
Several years ago, I toured some of the wineries of Nova Scotia but plenty more have sprung up since that time. One of those new ones is Blomidon Estate Winery, which is committed to producing wines using only Nova Scotia grown grapes. Their 2011 Rosé is a blend of three hybrids: New York Muscat, L’Acadie Blanc and Baco Noir. It was crisp, dry, and clean with subtle strawberry and watermelon flavors and hints of floral notes. It was far more Provence style than California, and paired very well with a variety of foods. You never would have known this was made from hybrids. In a blind tasting, you might assume this was a French Rosé.

9) 2010 Planeta Carricante ($36)
Sicily possesses a number of indigenous grapes including Carricante, a white grape thought to extend back to the 9th century and is primarily found in the Etna region. It is a late maturing grape, thrives in high altitudes and has a high acidity which allows it to age well. This wine was made from 100% Carricante and remains on the lees until the February after harvest when it is then bottled. It had a light gold color with an exciting aroma of apples and floral notes. On the palate, it was crisp, clean and complex with a dominant steely minerality and subtle fruit flavors, including pear and green apple. A lengthy and satisfying finish, this would be an excellent seafood wine and it should age very well too. I heartily recommend it.

10) 2010 Joel Gott Alakai ($24)
This California red wine blend is comprised of 77% Grenache, 17% Syrah, 4% Mourvedre, and 2% Petite Sirah. It had an alluring nose, great fruit and hints of spice and was compelling on the palate. Complex, with a delicious melange of reds fruits and spice, with hints of earthiness. It was more on the lighter side with smooth tannins and a lengthy, pleasing finish. An excellent food wine, or something you can savor on its own. Just plain delicious

This is always my toughest list to compile because there are numerous other excellent wines which I could have added. I had to ponder long over which wines to actually add to this list. Like my previous list, no single country dominated though Italy once again occupied three spots, due to my trip to Chianti Classico. California took two spots while Argentina, Austria, Oregon, France, and Nova Scotia each took one spot. The list is also broken down into 2 Rosé, 3 Whites and 5 Red wines. Half of the wines on the list also cost less than $25.

I have plenty of other recommendations for wines at this price point on my blog. There are top notch wines from countries all over the world, made from an incredibly diverse selection of grapes and you can still find plenty of values too. My advice is that you seek out wines outside of your comfort zone. Explore the multitude of diversity in the wonderful world of wine. Taste and try anything new, unique or potentially interesting. I am sure your search will lead to new favorites.

If you have some of your own recommendations for wines that are over $15 but under $50, please add them to the comments.

Friday, December 7, 2012

2012: Top Ten Wines Under $15

What were some of my favorite wines of the past year?

The start of a new year approaches and it is time to reflect upon the past year, to remember and savor many pleasant memories. As 2012 winds down, many in the media will publish their own lists of the best and worst of the past year, everything from books to movies to music. As I find some value in such lists, I will post some of my own Favorite Lists for 2012, covering food, wine, sake and spirits, over the next few weeks. These lists should provide a comprehensive summary of the favorite items I have encountered this past year, allowing my readers to more readily locate such gems, the best of my recommendations.

My first Favorites List of 2012 is my Top Ten Wines Under $15. In actuality, I have listed twelve wines, pairing a couple together from the same producer. This list includes wines that during the past year I have enjoyed very much and which I also found to be particularly compelling for various reasons. They might be especially delicious, something more unique or just excellent values for the price. They all stand out, for some particular reason, above the other wines at this price point that I have tasted this past year.

This is a purely subjective list, based on my own preferences, and makes no claims about being the "best" wines out there. It is primarily the wines which spoke to me the loudest, even when they were subtle wines. These are all wines that I strongly recommend and which I believe many other wine lovers would also enjoy.

The wines are not listed in any particular order and each choice is linked to my more detailed prior review. All of these value wines are worth your consideration but please also note that the prices are approximations and the actual price may vary in your area. In addition, some of the wines might not be available in your local area, though you might be able to order them from the winery or an online store, dependent on your state's shipping laws.

1) 2010 Adega Condes de Albarei Salneval Albarino ($11.99)
This Spanish white wine was produced by the Adega Condes de Albarei winery, a cooperative of 362 grower/owners equipped with advanced winery technology. I love Albarino and this wine was crisp and clean with a delightful and dominant melange of peach, pear and melon. There was also a subtle minerality with hints of honey and spice. A more voluptuous wine, this can be enjoyed on its own or paired with food, maybe something spicy. An excellent value.

2) 2005 Sella & Mosca Terre Rare Carignano del Sulcis Riserva ($14.99)
At a major wine event, with hundreds of wines, this was one of my overall favorite wines, especially at this price point. This Italian wine is made from 100% Carignan and aged for three years in French barriques. It is a stunning, complex and interesting wine. Spicy and bold, with delicious black fruit flavors, vanilla, a silky mouthfeel and hints of earthiness. Would love to drink this with pork, venison or lamb. An amazing value.

3) 2011 Calamares Vinho Verde ($7-$8)
Yes, it is named after squid and there is even a picture of a squid on the label. It might be easy to dismiss this wine as a gimmick but it is not. This Portuguese white wine is a blend of 40% Arinto, 30% Trajudura and 30% Loureiro with a low alcohol content of 9%. This is an easy quaffer, a wine to drink and enjoy, without any need to think about it. Slightly effervescent, it has plenty of acidity and flavors of grapefruit and lemon, with some mild mineral notes. For under $10, this is a very good choice.

4) 2009 L.A. Cetto Chenin Blanc ($10-$12) and 2010 L.A. Cetto Chardonnay ($10-$12)
L.A. Cetto is a winery in the Baja region of Mexico. Mexican wine you might ask? I haven't tasted many Mexican wines but this winery is doing a great job, especially at this price point and is well worth seeking out. The 2009 Chenin Blanc is made from 100% Chenin Blanc, sees no oak and is crisp and fresh, with delicious fruit flavors of melon, pear and peach and hints of herbs on the finish. The 2010 L.A. Cetto Chardonnay is produced from 100% Chardonnay, sees no oak and is also crisp and clean with delicious flavors of apple, pear, lemon & guava, with a touch of minerality. Both wines have more complexity and character than many similarly priced wines. I will be seeking more Mexican wines.

5) 2010 Castello di Querceto Chianti Classico ($15)
While gorging myself on five courses of beef from an amazing restaurant in Tuscany, I tasted an assortment of Chianti Classico wines. Out of that group, the Querceto stood out, pairing so well with the beef tartare and steaks. The Querceto, made from primarily Sangiovese, is a silky smooth and elegant wine with nice red fruit flavors and a hint of earthiness. It showcases the best of Tuscany at this price point and it would be best served with food.

6) 2011 Elisabetta Geppetti Fattoria Le Pupille ($13-$15)
This Italian red, from the Morellino Di Scansano DOCG, is a blend of 90% Sangiovese and 10% Malvasia Nera and it sees no oak. It is fresh, fruity, rustic and with hints of spice. A very easy drinking, it has a nice character, good complexity and is simply  quite delicious. It can be drank on its own or paired with food, such as a wild boar ragu.

7) 2011 Kanonkop Kadette Pinotage Rosé ($12),
This South African Rosé is from a winery that produces some of the best Pinotage in the world. The Rosé is produced from 100% Pinotage and if you tasted this blind, you probably would never guess it was Pinotage. It is an easy drinking Rosé with tasty red fruit flavors, especially raspberry and cherry, some minerality as well as excellent acidity. It is more Old World than New, with plenty of character and a satisfying finish. It is the type of wine that I could easily drink all day. It is an excellent food wine as well as enjoyable on its own. Highly recommended.

8) Cave Messias 2003 LBV Port (about $15)
The Cave Messias produces an assortment of Portuguese wines from Dão, Bairrada, Douro, Vinho Verde, Beiras, Terras do Sado and Vinho do Porto. Their 2003 LBV Port is a great value, presenting nice complexity, plenty of delicious red fruit flavors and some intriguing spice notes. It was silky smooth and presented a lengthy and satisfying finish. Might be hard to find a better LBV Port at this price point.

9) 2010 Biohof Pratsch Gruner Veltliner ($13) & 2009 Biohof Pratsch Zweigelt ($13)
Austrian wines, both red and white, have much to offer and the Biohof Pratsch, an organically certified winery produces some great value wines. Both of these wines are produced in one-liter bottles, which is 1/3 larger than a usual wine bottle, and cost only $13, which would be equivalent to about $9.30 for a regular 750ml bottle. What a bargain! The Gruner is crisp and dry with bright citrus flavors and hints of spice. A very refreshing wine that would be excellent with food or just as a summer sipper. The Zweigelt is light bodied and smooth with plenty of tasty red fruit flavors. Another easy drinking and flavorful wine. Both are strongly recommended.

10) 2010 Vera de Estenas P.G. Bobal ($13)
This Spanish winery is located in the D.O. of Utiel-Requena and is the oldest winery in that region. The wine is produced from 100% Bobal, an indigenous grape, and spent a few months in oak. It is light bodied with delicious red fruit flavors complemented by a subtle earthiness and hints of spice. I was really amazed at its quality and complexity at this price point and it is a wine I highly recommend.

Once again, there are no U.S. wines on the list. I often find it more difficult to find compelling domestic wines for under $15, especially from California. They exist but I find them much less common than value imported wines. Six different countries made this list and no single country really dominated, though Italy had the most wines on the list with three, partially due to my trip to Chianti Classico last spring. Spain, Portugal, Mexico and Austria all had two wines on the list and South Africa had one. The list is also broken down into 1 Rosé, 5 Whites, 5 Red and 1 Fortified wines.

You will find many excellent value wines from Portugal, including a fair share under $10. Spain has some very good values too, though it seems you need to look a bit harder now than you once did. Austria remains an overlooked region with some excellent values which you should consider. Mexico was the big surprise this year and I need to seek more of their wines out. You can find value wines all over the world, in every region, though some regions provide a greater range and diversity of value wines.

I have other recommendations for wines under $15 on my blog and you just have to search for them. There remain many good buys available in this price range, wines which exceed much of the common plonk out there. It is important to remember that though wine stores sell plenty of wines in this price range, not all of them are of equal value. Wines in this price range do not have to be one-dimensional wines that all taste the same. You can find wines of character and complexity, though you might need to spend a little more time seeking them out.

Wine blogs can help you in that regard, pointing out wines that you might not otherwise know about. Tasting the wines before you buy them is another way to find such values. Or simply ask your trusted wine store owner for advice and suggestions.

If you have some of your own recommendations for excellent wines under $15, please add them to the comments.

Friday, April 27, 2012

Taste of The Nation: Helping Feed The Children

Cue the irony, a large group of people gorging on plentiful food and alcohol while nearly 17 million children struggle with hunger. Fortunately, the event is aimed at alleviating the problems of childhood hunger, and 100% of all ticket sales go directly to these efforts.

The Taste of the Nation, which was established in 1988, has run numerous events, all across the country, bringing together chefs, mixologists, wineries, bakers, and more all to help fight childhood hunger. Ticket sales directly support Share Our Strength’s efforts and this year's funds went to their program,No Kid Hungry. This is a very serious problem and this event is doing something significant to combat it, and all of the participants, who mostly have donated their time, food and drink, deserve kudos for their efforts.

I had a fun and delicious time at this event, tasting many interesting dishes, wines and cocktails while getting the chance to chat with some chefs and vendors. It was not overly crowded so you didn't have to wait at most of the tables. I want to highlight several special items at the event, some very new to me, others which continue to impress.

Seafood charcuterie is up and coming, and I definitely want to write a story on it soon. It is an intriguing idea and seems to work well from prior items I have tried.  606 Congress presented a Monkfish Chorizo, which is made with monkfish, cream, egg whites, and chorizo spices. It was tasty, with a creamy texture to it and the spices added a nice balance.

Masa, with locations in Boston and Woburn,  infuses their own Reposado tequila to make a Habanero Watermelon Margarita. I love the taste of watermelon and this cocktail presented a nice watermelon taste, not too sweet, with a tequila undertone and a very spicy finish. I would have enjoyed a big glass of this refreshing, spicy margarita and will have to stop by the restaurant to have it once again.

Mat and Evan of Turkey Shore Distilleries, makers of Old Ipswich Rum, were pouring some of their rum and they recently won three medals at the American Distilling Institute's 9th Annual Craft Distilling Conference & Vendor Expo. Their award is pictured above, a mini-still which actually works! I previously reviewed their distillery and rums, which are worthy of your attention. On May 5, the public is invited to attend Turkey Shore Distilleries' one-year Anniversary Celebration and Rum Release party from 1pm-5pm at their headquarters at 23 Hayward Street in Ipswich.

A bowl of savory and salty Crispy Pig's Ear Chicharrones made by Franklin Cafe. A perfect snack and I wish I had a bowl in front of me right now.

Chef Jason Santos of Blue Inc. served up some Pastrami Dumplings, which were very crunchy, reminding me more of wontons than dumplings. The pastrami fitting went well with the crunchy coating and they were also an excellent comfort food.

Chef Jose Duarte of Taranta, who I often see at charity events, presented an intriguing dessert, a smooth and creamy pudding-like item that uses lucuma, a Peruvian fruit which is also known as egg fruit because its flesh seems to resemble the texture of a hard boiled egg. It reminded me of a delicious butterscotch pudding,  and I had a couple of them because they were so good. Peruvian ingredients deserve much more respect as their diversity offers so many intriguing flavors.

Of all the wines I tasted, the best value finds were two wines from Biohof Pratsch, an organically certified Austrian winery. Both wines were in one-liter bottles, which is 1/3 more than a usual wine bottle, and cost only $13, which would be equivalent to about $9.30 for a regular 750ml bottle. The 2010 Gruner Veltliner was crisp and dry with bright citrus flavors and hints of spice. A very refreshing wine that would be excellent with food or just as a summer sipper. The 2009 Zweigelt was light bodied and smooth with plenty of tasty red fruit flavors. Another easy drinking and flavorful wine, and both also only have 12% alcohol. Excellent values and both are strongly recommended.

I had the pleasure to meet Michele da Silva and Dana Masterpolo, the owners of Bantam Cider, a new cidery in Inman Square, Cambridge. The cidery opened last January and they currently sell a single product, the Wunderkind, which was named in honor of Amelia Earhart. The cider contains only fermented pressed apples, honey and sulfites. The apples are a mix of Cortland, Empire, Macintosh and green apples, all from western Massachusetts. They use a sparkling wine yeast and ferment it dry, adding the honey later more for body than sweetness. It has an alcohol content of 6%, is gluten free and sells in a 650ml bottle for about $8.  

Michele and Dana wanted to make a hard cider that would be accessible to all. They also have plans to make other varieties in the future. In addition, they self distribute so they are still trying to get their product into more venues. I was impressed with the Wunderkind's taste, which was mostly dry, with only a light sweetness, lots of tasty apple flavors, hints of some floral elements and a fuller body than some other hard ciders. It was refreshing and the type of hard cider that you can easily drink a few bottles on a nice summer day.

Michele and Dana emphasized that the cider was food friendly too, pairing well with cheese and spicy Asian dishes. With all of the new artisan breweries and distilleries sprouting up, many of them appear to be run by men so it is good to see women getting involved as well. They have created a good product here, and I look forward to seeing what else they will develop in the near future.

Wednesday, February 8, 2012

Mohegan Sun Wine Fest: The Wines

Though I would have preferred more diversity in the wine selections at the Mohegan Sun Wine Fest Grand Tasting, I found some very good wines and I will share a sampling of my favorites below. Obviously, I did not taste every wine at the event so there could have been other worthy wines that I simply did not get the opportunity to sample. If you attended this event, and tasted some good wines that I have not mentioned, feel free to add your thoughts to the Comments.

The labels are eye-catching, especially if you are a music lover, though you might suspect they are mere gimmicks. The Wines That Rock, founded in 2009, is a collaboration between RZO Music, Inc. and the Mendocino Wine Company, and is "...all about pairing wine & music."  The Mendocino Wine Co. is very environmentally friendly, with sustainable farming, green power through solar & wind, eco-friendly packaging, carbon neutrality and more.

There are currently five Wines That Rock, including wines for Woodstock, Pink Floyd, The Rolling Stone, The Police and The Grateful Dead. If you check their website, you can see the inspirations for these wines, the reasons why the music and wine are supposed to work well together. I have tasted several of these wines before, which generally retail around $15 a bottle, and they are generally good wines for the money and not merely a marketing gimmick.

Their newest release, in partnership with Grateful Dead Productions and Rhino Entertainment is the 2009 Grateful Dead "Steal Your Face," a  red blend. Their website states: "To capture the essence of the live energy of the Grateful Dead’s Steal Your Face, Winemaker Mark Beaman chose to meld several varieties into one. Just as the band members would segue through various musical styles, this wines far reaching flavors melt seamlessly from one to the next, blending Syrah, Petite Sirah, Zinfandel & Grenache. In honor of the band’s famous improvisational concerts that have brought joy to so many, this wine celebrates Mendocino County’s bounty of diversity and freedom of experimentation."

I enjoyed this muscular wine, with its prominent blend of black and red fruit, a spicy backbone and strong tannins. It had just enough complexity to make it interesting, especially at its price point. It is an easy drinking wine, excellent for BBQ or hearty meat dishes, or something to warm you on a chilly winter evening. As I am not a big Grateful Dead fan, I can't really say how this wine compares to their music. But maybe my friend, and devoted Deadhead, Adam of Wine Zag can comment on that.

I found two Spanish Albarinos, from Rias Baixas, each offering its own unique style. The 2010 Serra da Estrela Albarino ($16.99) is from a winery established in 2000, located  in the Condado do Tea subzone of Rias Baixas on the northern slopes of the Miño river. The chief winemaker is a woman, Cristina Mantilla, a common occurrence in Rias Baixas wineries. This Albarino sees no oak, and is crisp and clean, with more restrained fruit tastes, apple, pear and apricot. Its minerality is more prominent, kind of a flintiness, and it has a fairly lengthy and pleasing finish. A nice choice with seafood, from oysters to shrimp.

The 2010 Salneval Albarino ($11.99) is produced by the Adega Condes de Albarei winery, founded in 1988 and located in the O Salnès valley. It is a cooperative of 362 grower/owners, equipped with advanced winery technology. Again, this Albarino was crisp and clean, but its fruit flavors were much more powerful, a delightful melange of peach, pear and melon. Its minerality was more subtle, along with hints of honey and spice. It had a fuller mouthfeel, more voluptuous, than the other Albarino, and I would enjoy this on its own or paired with food, maybe something with a little spicy heat, like some Thai. If you are not drinking Albarino, then go find some to taste.

The 2007 Jose Maria Da Fonseca Periquita Reserva ($16.99) is a Portuguese red blend of 50% Castelao, 30% Touriga Nacional, and 20% Touriga Franca. It is aged for about eight months in new and used oak and has an alcohol content of 13.2%. A light red color and an alluring fruity nose with a touch of exotic spice. The flavors include blueberry, raspberry, black cherry, vanilla and spice. Easy drinking, delicious, and another reason to embrace Portuguese wines.

One of my overall favorite wines of the Expo was the 2005 Terre Rare Carignano del Sulcis Riserva ($14.99) from the Sella & Mosca winery in Sardinia. The winery was established in 1899 by two Piedmontese businessmen and it is currently owned by Campari. This wine is made from 100% Carignan, is aged for three years in French barriques and has an alcohol content of 13.5%. I found this to be a complex and interesting wine, a stunner at this price point. Spicy and bold, with delicious black fruit flavors, vanilla, a silky mouthfeel and hints of earthiness. I would pair this with pork, venison or lamb, or just savor on its own. This is a wine likely to end up on one of my Favorites List of 2012.

The Saintsbury Vineyard has long been one of my favorite California producers of Pinot Noir. The winery founders, Dick Ward and Dave Graves, made their first Saintsbury wine in 1979 and released their first Pinot Noir in 1981. Based in the Carneros region, they currently produce about 40,000 cases annually. Over the course of the Expo weekend, they poured five different wines, including four Pinot Noirs.

The 2009 Carneros Chardonnay ($21.99) is unfiltered, spends 8 months in French oak (20% new), and undergoes malolactic fermentation. The bottle is under a screwcap, and presents a tasty white wine with restrained fruit, spice and some minerality. This is a good example of how oak can enhance a Chardonnay, rather than drown it.

The 2008 Carneros Pinot Noir ($27.99) is a good starting point for their portfolio of Pinot Noirs. It might be their most muscular Pinot, with bright red fruit, a spicy backbone and hints of earthiness. A delicious taste, nicely balanced and a pleasing finish. Over the years, I have drank many bottles of this Carneros Pinot. The 2008 Carneros Pinot Noir, Lee Vineyard is a single vineyard that spends about ten months in French oak, about 29% new. It has less muscle than the regular Carneros though the fruit is still bright and there is plenty of spice notes.

Onto their more elegant offerings. The 2005 Carneros Pinot Noir, Stanley Ranch is an older vintage as the current one for this wine is 2008. This was a more elegant wine, very Burgundian in nature, which subtle red fruit flavors, plenty of spice notes and a strong backbone of earthiness. Its lingering finish was very satisfying, and this is certainly a wine to slowly savor, enjoying its complexity and style. A sublime wine evidencing the skill of Saintsbury. The 2007 Carneros Pinot Noir, Brown Ranch is equally as excellent, an elegant experience with less earthiness and spice. There is much subtlety in its complexity, reminding me in that respect of a fine Daiginjo sake. These are examples of some of the best California Pinot Noirs out there.

A squid picture on the label? And even a name based on squid?  Yes, it is catchy and kind of cool but is it a mere gimmick?  The 2011 Calamares Vinho Verde ($7-$8) is a Portuguese blend of 40% Arinto, 30% Trajudura and 30% Loureiro with an alcohol content of only 9%. The wine is from the single estate of Quinta da Devesa, and its name is intended to "...create an association with the unpretentious and relaxed nature of the region and its wines." This is an easy quaffer, a wine to drink and enjoy, without any need to think about it. Slightly effervescent, it has plenty of acidity and flavors of grapefruit and lemon, with some mild mineral notes. For under $10, this is a good choice, and pair it with light chicken dishes, seafood and maybe even cheese.

Moving onto Spain, I enjoyed the 2009 Tarima Hill ($15), produced by Bodegas Volver, S.L. and from the Alicante region. It is made from 100% Monastrell, the vines aged from 25-35 years, and the wine spends about 20 months in French oak. This is actually the first vintage of this wine. This is a big and bold wine, with lush ripe plum and blueberry flavors, strong tannins and hints of vanilla, cinnamon and raisins. It calls out to be paired with a big steak, and offers a good taste for the price.

Next up, a couple Grüner Veltliners from the same winery, Eder, which possesses 12 hectares of vineyards, in the town of Mautern in the Wachau region of Austria, and produces only about 20,000 bottles annually.These Grüners were very different from each other. The 2009 Eder Grüner Veltliner was very aromatic with prominent fruit flavors and good acidity. A relatively simple, easy drinking and fun quaffer. But the 2006 Eder Raubern Single Vineyard Grüner Veltliner (under $20) was anything but simple. The melange of flavors fascinated me with their complexity, with plenty of spice and floral notes, yet still with noticeable stone fruit components. Despite its age, this seemed still very fresh and it was a clear winner, sure to please any wine lover.

I found a couple nice Ports too. The 2001 Warre's Late Bottled Vintage was very approachable with plenty of cherry and plum fruit flavors, subtle spice and a smooth mouth feel. It was more an elegant style, with a lengthy and pleasing finish. The Ferreira Dona Antonia Reserve Porto was another elegant wine but its berry flavors were more restrained, and accompanied by tastes of dried fruit, nuts, spice and floral elements. It seemed more complex than the Warre's and was also smooth and very satisfying on the finish. Both Ports were enjoyable, and your choice of the two will depend on your personal preferences.

Australian wine has taken a hit in the last couple years, a backlash from wine lovers tired of overly fruity, high alcohol, and huge red wines. There is some truth there, that Australia produced a significant number of wines that met those qualifications, but there are also some very good wines coming out of this region. They just seem to get far less publicity and maybe it is time for wine lovers to return to Australia. A good starting point may be the Shingleback Winery, located in the McLaren Vale of Australia.

Kym & John Davey chose to develop a family estate that had been established in 1957. In 1998, they released their first wine, the Shingleback Shiraz, and their stated goal was to "produce affordable, quality wines that express the true character of McLaren Vale." I tasted their 2006 Shingleback Shiraz and was impressed with what I tasted. It certainly was not a fruit bomb and was a far more elegant and restrained wine, with plenty of complexity and a pleasant taste of black cherry, blueberry and raspberry combined with vanilla, subtle spice and even hints of chocolate on the finish. Good structure, nice balance, and pure delicious. It makes me want to further explore Shingleback wines, as well as seek out more of these type of Australian wines.


With the Wine Blogger's Conference coming to Portland, Oregon in August, plenty of attention will be coming to Oregon wineries. At the Expo, I encountered Jim Bernau, the founder of Willamette Valley Vineyards, who purchased the vineyard site in 1983 and planted Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Gris. The winery and cellar are carved into an ancient volcanic flow and the soil is red from its high iron content. It is claimed that this soil is similar to "...the red clay soil found in the Grand Cru Pinot Noir vineyards of Romaneé-st-Vivant in Burgundy,.."  I cannot comment on that but I can state that their wines are impressive and I hope to visit their winery in August.

Their 2009 Pinot Gris ($17.99) was stainless steel fermented and permitted to sure-lee age for a time. It is crisp and clean with bright flavors of green apple, melon and pear with a slight herbal component. Delicious, refreshing and moderately complex. The 2009 Pinot Noir ($29.99), which undergoes about 11 months of French oak (22% new), is a delicious example of Oregon Pinot Noir. Ripe red fruit, hints of spice and orange peel, and a lengthy, satisfying finish. It is a more elegant style, offering a nice balance and good complexity.

The stunner though was their 2009 Estate Pinot Noir ($43.99), which is subtle and seductive, an elegant and complex Pinot which is sure to impress. The melange of flavors ranges from bright cherry to ripe plum, from cinnamon to black pepper. You need to slowly sip and savor this wine, to perceive all of the diverse flavors within. Well balanced, this wine provides an alluring finish that seems to caress your palate with silk, lingering long within your mouth. A killer wine, I highly recommend this one.