Viña Koyle: Cristóbal, Carmenere & Auma

The art of blending. The death of 700,000 beetles. Cow horns filled with dung. An indigenous Chilean flower. The soul.

These were all fascinating topics that arose during a recent dinner I attended at Alden & Harlow with Matt Demers of Quintessential Wines and Cristóbal Undurraga Marimón, co-owner and winemaker at Viña Koyle, a Chilean winery. I'd been invited to meet Cristóbal (pictured above) and sample his wines. We had a fun evening, and I was impressed with his wines, especially his Carmenere wines and his top wine, Auma.

Though Viña Koyle was only established in 2006, its roots actually extend back to the latter part of the 19th century. In the early 1880s, Francisco Ramon Undurraga Vicuna began planting grape vines in Chile, vines he obtained from France and Germany. In 1885, Francisco founded his winery, Vina Undurraga, though his first harvest wasn't until 1891. Vina Undurraga was the first Chilean winery to export to the U.S. and during the 20th century, it became one of the largest wineries in Chile. However, in 2006, the Undurraga family decided to sell the winery and brand.

That sale didn't mean that the family was done with the wine business. They didn't wait and decided to start a new winery, a smaller, more artisan one, so they purchased about 2700 acres of land in the Los Lingues zone of Alto Colchuagua, in the foothills of the Andes. They didn't need to seek far for a wine maker, finding one in Cristóbal Undurraga, the sixth generation of their family.  

Cristóbal, who I found to be garrulous and passionate, originally didn't want to work in the large, family winery though he still possessed a strong affinity for wine. After graduation, he began to travel the world, seeking to learn all about winemaking. Beginning at Franciscan Estates in Napa, California in 2001, he later traveled, in 2002, to Rosemount Estates in Australia and then the famed Chateau Margaux in Bordeaux, France. In 2003, he was recruited to become the lead enologist at Vina Kaiken in Argentina.

However, he was eventually drawn back to Chile, to become the chief winemaker at his family's new artisan winery. They needed a name for their new winery and one day they rode horses into the nearby Andes, hoping for inspiration. While riding, they saw a beautiful purple plant that grew near the oak forests, and had to ask someone the name of it. In the indigenous language of the region, the plant, which is also an endangered species, is called koyle, The family were intrigued by the name and chose it for their new winery, Viña Koyle.

Cristóbal had strong ideas about this new winery, believing that Carmenere, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah would be their primary grapes. Pedro Parra, the famed Chilean soil scientist, was hired to examine their land and he eventually determined there were 87 different units of microterroir on the estate. Cristóbal stated that previously in Chile, winemakers and viticulturists generally worked separately, however Pedro has helped winemakers better appreciate the place of the vineyards, leading toward a greater collaboration between winemakers and viticulturists. The effect of that has been to increase the overall quality of Chilean wine.

Though Cristóbal had been interested in organic viticulture since 2001, while he worked in Australia, he learned about Biodynamic agriculture and was intrigued. The more he learned about it, the more he desired to create a Biodynamic vineyard. Since then, he immersed himself in Biodynamic agriculture and their vineyard has been Demeter certified since 2012. He embraces all of the esoteric aspects, seeing positive changes in his vineyard which he directly attributes to Biodynamics. Animals are raised on the estate, including sheep, cows, horses, and honey bees, and various fruits and vegetables are grown there as well.

One of the initial challenges they faced at the vineyard involved something similar to a biblical plague of locusts. They found that some unknown type of nocturnal insect was devouring the flowers on their vines and they needed to stop them or they would destroy all of their vineyards. Taking watch at night, they could hear the sound of the insects' feeding, a chilling experience as it indicated a vast number of insects, and eventually identified them as a type of beetle unique to Chile.

As they couldn't use commercial pesticides, they decided to destroy the larvae by using Indian tea tree oil in the ground, and this was successful. Next, they set up about 2000 lights to attract and destroy the beetles  From a distance at night, the lights almost looked as if the winery was on fire. In the end, they destroyed about 700,000 insects, counting them by the cup-load. What an incredible amount of dead beetles! They would have posed a dire threat to any vineyard.

Currently, Cristóbal's greatest challenge is more holistic, as he wants even more life within the soil, as well as vine roots which extend down eight meters into the soil. Despite making great strides during the last eight years, he believes there is much more to do, saying that it may take fifty years to accomplish all of his objectives. Cristóbal lives on the estate, one of the few winemakers who does so, and thus can personally see all the changes in the vineyard. Most other winemakers live in the cities, and commute to the vineyards. It was very important to Cristóbal though for him to be there, to live on the estate, to rely on much of what they can grow and produce on the estate.

Viña Koyle currently produces about 36,000 cases of wine, though they have the capacity to double that but they want their growth to be slow and steady. They currently sell some of their excess Biodynamic grapes to other local producers. The winery exports about 90% of their wines, to 35 different countries, and their top three export markets include the  U.S., Belgium and the United Kingdom.

Cristóbal mentioned that he desires to produce wines that you can easily drink, which are not overly concentrated. He didn't want to make a wine where you have a single glass, but it is so big and concentrated that you didn't want a second glass. Since meeting with Cristóbal, I met a Spanish winemaker who voiced the exact same sentiment. I agree with both of these men, desirous of wines where I can easily drink multiple glasses over the course of an evening rather than a single glass of some huge wine.

Cristóbal and I also discussed the importance of blending, both of adding various varietals to the same wine, as well as adding different barrels of the same varietal. This also has become a familiar conversation that I've had with other wine makers, as well as spirit producers. Blending is both art and science, and its role seems to often be underestimated. It allows wines to acquire greater complexity, as well as more consistency.It allows a winemaker to have a greater input on the type of wine that results.

I tasted seven Viña Koyle wines, the first two (a Sauvignon Blanc and a Pinot Noir) were organic while the other five were Biodynamic. All of the wines had been opened for about five to six hours before I tasted them.

The 2012 Koyle Costa Sauvignon Blanc ($23.99) is produced from 100% Sauvignon Blanc from a vineyard located about 9km from the Pacific Ocean. Cristóbal wants to make this wine with texture and high acidity, and not in the usual New World style. The vineyard, which was planted in 2006, has three exposures: north, south and a flat area. As such, each exposure is fermented differently, including Burgundy French oak barrels, concrete and stainless steel. In addition, the wine spends ten months on the lees and six months in the barrel. This is only the second vintage of this wine, and they plan to continue to make Sauvignon Blanc in this same way. With an alcohol content of 12.5%, this wine has bright aromas of citrus and a slight saline quality. On the palate, the wine is crisp, clean and tart, with pleasant grapefruit and lemon flavors, and strong mineral notes. Nice complexity, a lengthy finish and this would be an excellent seafood wine.

The 2012 Koyle Costa Pinot Noir ($34.99) is from the same vineyard as the Sauvignon Blanc and is made from 100% Pinot Noir. Cristóbal has studied how wine is made in Burgundy, seeking ideas on how Pinot could be properly grown in Chile. This is the third year that he has produced Pinot Noir, except he didn't bottle his first two attempts as he wasn't satisfied with the results. He stated that Pinot is "like a beautiful lady." and he sought to do justice to that image. I was impressed with this wine and think Cristóbal should be very happy with what he has produced. With an alcohol content of 14.5%, this wine had a pleasing aroma of red fruits with fleeting hints of other aromas, such as a hint of earthiness. On the palate, this was an elegant and complex wine, with bright cherry and raspberry flavors, minerality and a touch of earth. It is worth the price, and will remind you more of Burgundy than California.

These next two wine, Gran Reservas, are Biodynamic, and Cristóbal mentioned that he recently has begun thinking that the wines might be better labeled as "Wild Reserva," in reference to their more natural composition.

The 2012 Koyle Gran Reserva Carmenere ($16.99) is a blend of 86.5% Carmenere, 8% Malbec, 3% Cabernet Franc, and 2.5% Petite Verdot and has an alcohol content of 14%.  Cristóbal stated that too much Carmenere in Chile is either too vegetal/green or is too ripe. He believes that the key to making it properly is low yields. As I dislike the vegetal/green aspect in Carmenere, I was pleased to find it didn't exist in this Koyle wine. With a nose of black fruit and spice, I found this to be an elegant wine, with a delicious melange of black fruit, spice, minerality and hints of tobacco. It was silky smooth, with a long, satisfying finish. At this price, it is agood value for its complexity and quality. Cristóbal recommends this wine for pasta and risotto. Highly recommended.

The 2012 Koyle Gran Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon ($16.99) is a blend of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc, and 5% Petite Verdot and has an alcohol content of 14%. This was produced to be a gastronomic wine. I found this to be more of a dark and brooding wine, with ripe plum and black berry fruits, combined with mineral notes and spice and with a background of moderate tannins. It isn't a fruit forward style, but more of a wine that needs a thick steak or hearty pasta to complement it.

A step-up in their portfolio is the 2011 Koyle Royale Carmenere ($25.99), a blend of 85% Carmenere, 9% Petite Verdot, and 6% Malbec. I enjoyed the Gran Reserva Carmenere, but this truly impressed, elevating all of the good qualities to a higher level. The enticing aroma presented violet notes and black fruits, and on the palate it was elegant, with silky tannins and a deep complexity of flavor. The harmonious flavors included lush black fruits, plenty of spiciness and a rich minerality. One of the best Carmeneres I have tasted in some time. Highly recommended. It is also recommended that you decant this wine at least 30 minutes before serving.

The 2010 Koyle Royale Cabernet Sauvignon ($25.99) is a blend of 89% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Malbec, and 5% Petite Verdot, and an alcohol content of 14.5%. Again, this wine is similar to the Gran Reserva, though elevates the quality. It remains dark and brooding wine, but with more intense and complex flavors. It is also recommended that you decant this wine at least 30 minutes before serving.

The apex of the tasting was the 2010 Koyle Auma ($99.99) is a blend of 37% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Carmenere, 18% Malbec, 13% Syrah, and 7% Petite Verdot, with an alcohol content of 14.3%. "Alma" is the Spanish word for the "soul", and they substituted the letter "U" for the "L" to reflect their family name, Underruga. Thus, this wine is the soul of their family, of their new winery. It is the wine which has been Cristóbal's dream from the beginning. This is the second vintage of this wine and only 692 6-bottle wood cases were produced. The wine, using only grapes from their best vineyards, was fermented in separate lots, and then aged, also in separate lots for about 24 months in French oak, about 50% new. It is then blended together by gravity in a concrete egg tank, and then aged for an additional 9 months in the concrete. It is unfiltered and should be able to age well for at least ten years in the cellar.

The wine is an inky dark color with an enticing nose of black fruits with eucalyptus notes. On the palate, it is seductive and alluring, a silky liquid which tantalizes the mind with its complex and harmonious blend of flavors. It is a wine where description becomes inadequate, where the best understanding comes from experiencing it. It may remind you of a high-end Bordeaux, though even if not, you are going to be impressed with its quality and complexity. Slowly savor this wine over the course of an evening with a good friend. My highest recommendation.

Despite the time and effort required to run Viña Koyle, Cristóbal still seems to have some time to engage in other wine endeavors. For example, he is currently working on producing a wine in Southern France. In addition, he is part of a new producer in Argentina, Larrain, Lasmartres, Toso & Undurraga, located in the Uco Valley. This endeavor is the work of six partners, 3 from Chile and 3 from Arrgentina. They make single vineyard Malbecs, from Don Fernando Vineyards in La Consulta. It is an organic vineyard, at an altitude of about 3,000 feet, one which Cristóbal hopes might become Biodynamic one day.

I got to sample one of these wines, the 2009 LTU ($64.99), which is produced from 100% Malbec, has an alcohol content of 14.7%, and only 1,000 six-bottles cases were produced. With a dark purplish color, this is a very concentrated wine with tasty plum, blackberry and blueberry notes. There is a nice depth of flavor and a certain elegance. It is still young and though it is drinkable now, I would like to see how it develops over time.

Cristóbal's passion for wine is infectious, and he is producing an excellent range of wines, from Pinot Noir to Carmenere. Our stimulating conversation raised several important issues, from blending to Biodynamics. All of the wines paired very well with food, and they certainly were the type of wines you could satisfactorily drink a few glasses.

Seek out the wines of Viña Koyle and explore the wonders of Chilean wine.

Cowhorn Vineyards: A Biodynamic Choice

Even if you didn't know it was Biodynamic, the name of Cowhorn Vineyards might clue you in as cowhorn is integral to one of the more famous Biiodynamic preparations. Preparation 500 is essentially a cow horn, filled with a cow manure mixture, that is buried in the ground. The purpose of this preparation is to improve soil structure and microbiological activity. It is considered by some to be one of the key preparations for Biodynamics. Cowhorn Vineyards is the only certified Biodynamic vineyard in Southern Oregon, though you will find a number of others in the Willamette Valley.

Cowhorn is owned by Bill and Barbara Steele, and this is a second career for them. Bill was a Wall Street analyst for about 20 years while Barbara was involved in accounting and finance. That seems quite removed from owning a vineyard. However, some of Barbara's clients were farmers and she eventually became enamored with farming, desirous of getting involved in the soil. Bill was amenable to a big change and willing to delve into agriculture. They had family in Oregon and after a vacation there in 2001, they decided to move to Ashland, Oregon.

Initially, they had not been wine drinkers, preferring beer, but Barbara's brother was a wine writer, and they eventually started drinking and enjoying wine. Their growing passion for wine led to their decision to start a vineyard and try to make wine. A bold move for two people who had never been involved in farming before. They wanted a blank canvas, something which they could transform into whatever they desired. In addition, they sought an isolated farm with good water rights, and in 2002, finally found what they desired, an abandoned farm. The estate comprised 117 acres, 60 which were flat, and the land reached to the Applegate River.

They hired some consultants to analyze their land and it was found to be especially conducive to Rhone grapes. The Steeles initially planted about 11 acres of vines, which has now grown to 23 acres. The vines are densely planted, and nearly all are Rhone varietals. This endeavor was a huge challenge to these novice farmers and there was a steep learning curve, yet they were up for the challenge. For example, they were able to create and construct their winery in only 10.5 months. Everything had to be started from scratch, a formidable endeavor in which they immersed themselves.

Bill stated that prior to moving to Oregon, they had lived an organic/homeopathic lifestyle, and that included their dogs as well. Biodynamics was similar to their philosophy so it was an easy decision to choose to adopt it for their vineyard. Bill is a true believer but doesn't push his ideas on anyone, stating that his philosophy is a choice, a preference, and it is not about right or wrong. The vineyard and winery has been Demeter certified since 2006, and the health of their soil is of utmost importance to them.

The property has been fenced in since 2004, to prevent animals from wandering onto the property, including mountain lions which inhabit the region. In the future, they may choose to raise their own animals, as they as an important aspect of Biodynamics. At the time of our visit, they hadn't yet begun harvesting, unlike many of the other Southern Oregon wineries, as their site tends to be cooler than many of the surrounding farms. It is a beautiful site, surrounded by mountains, with lots of trees and lush vegetation. There is an air of serenity as well, almost a step back into the past.

Data collection is important to them, allowing them to better understand their vineyard, and that isn't a surprise knowing Bill used to be a financial analyst. That analytical nature might seem incongruent with his embrace of Biodynamics but Bill doesn't feel that it is the case. He stated that his greatest challenge was maintaining his sanity, with so much work that needs to be done, the risks of weather, the unexpected complications, and so much more. It can almost be overwhelming, especially as they had no prior experience. It helps that the people of the wineries of Southern Oregon are very cooperative, and quickly lend assistance and advice when needed.

Though the misinformed might think Biodynamic farmers shun technology, that is not the case. For example, Bill's pump house, weighing in at 6 tons, is high-tech, a system of "pure math." And its blue and red colors make it stand out, helping to show visitors the different aspects of the winery. Bill and Barbara hired a wine consultant to assist with wine making, to show them what needed to be done. For their wines, they conduct little filtering and use their own sulfur dioxide. Though their annual production is low, and you might think their wines are only available in Oregon, some of their wines are actually distributed in New York.

This is Buddy, one of their dogs, and he followed us around much of our tour of the vineyard. He is a mimic, often imitating the actions of those around him. This was more than evident when we were at the vines and Bill encouraged us to taste some of the grapes. Buddy decided that meant he could do the same, and he grabbed an entire cluster of Viognier in his mouth and ran off to enjoy the grapes. I guess he thought they were ready for harvest.

Cowhorn produces a number of different wines, including whites, reds and a rosé, though we only tasted three of their wines. Bill lamented over the difficulties of using Grenache grapes, which could be transformed into a $35 wine, into a Rosé for which he could only charge around $22. That is certainly an issue common to other wine makers too, of how best to use their grapes.

The 2012 Spiral 36 ($28) is a blend of 50% Viognier, 30% Marsanne and 20% Roussane, and only 650 cases were produced. The wine spends about 3 months in French oak (80% neutral, 20% new), has an alcohol content of 13.5% and native yeasts are used. It was crisp and clean, with pleasant citrus, pineapple, and melon fruit flavors, as well as a nice richness on the palate.

The 2012 Marsanne Roussanne ($28) is a blend of 45% Marsanne and 44% Roussanne 55%, and only 125 cases were produced. The wine spends about 4 months in French oak (83% neutral, 17% new) and has an alcohol content of 13.5%. It too was crisp and clean, with notes of green apple, lemon, and apricot, with a backbone of minerality. Well balanced and a lengthy finish. Highly recommended.

The 2009 Syrah 80 ($35) is made from 100% Syrah, and only 630 cases were produced. It is named "80" because that is the number of frost hours in the growing season. The wine spends about 9 months in French oak (35% new) and has an alcohol content of 13.5%. I enjoyed this wine, finding it possessed a nice depth of flavor, excellent black and blue fruit flavors, a mild spiciness and a bit of floral aspect. It is more a wine of elegance than power, with a long and satisfying finish. A wine that beckons out for roast lamb, a hearty aged steak or a rich meat sauce.

Ten Things You Should Know About Southern Oregon (Part 2)

(Continued from Part 1)

5) Southern Oregon lacks a singular grape/wine identity.
The Willamette Valley is best known for Pinot Noir but Southern Oregon is still seeking what will be their signature grape or wine. They currently grow at least 70-80 different grapes and the region's climate and soils allow them to grow nearly any grape that exists. About 70% of the grapes they grow are red, with some of their top planted grapes including Pinot Noir (about 20%), Syrah (about 11%), Merlot (about 11%), Pinot Gris (about 10%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (10%).

Two of the more exciting grapes making their mark in this region are Viognier and Tempranillo, which a couple winemakers told me should be the signature grapes of Southern Oregon. However, those two grapes currently constitute only 3% and 4% of plantings, respectively, so they still have a long ways to come before becoming signature grapes. Plantings of different grapes continue, and currently Rhone grapes are starting to become more popular. One problem is that though the wine makers often chat and cooperate on an individual level, there really isn't a large, industry based group which would meet to discuss regional issues, such as what might best be a signature grape.  

6) Southern Oregon has numerous microclimates.
Though Southern Oregon is generally considered a warm-climate region, it possesses about 70 microclimates, and includes cool-climate areas. It occupies a similar latitude as sections of northern Spain, including parts of Ribera del Duero and Rioja, which probably is a reason why Tempranillo does so well here. The region also has four distinct viticultural zones, including Northern Umpqua Valley, Umpqua Valley, Rogue Valley and Illinois Valley. Much of the region has large diurnal to nocturnal temperature changes, which is good for certain grapes. Those grapes don't metabolize acid as quickly, as the cold temperatures help to shut down that process. Vintage variation is also significant in this region, and an important factor that winemakers must address each year. It is something that consumers need to realize as well, that vintage will play a far greater role in Southern Oregon than it usually does in California.

7) Greg Jones is one of Southern Oregon's most valuable assets.
Greg Jones, a professor and climatologist at Southern Oregon University, has been a valuable asset to the wineries of Southern Oregon. In 2009, he was listed as one of Decanter's most influential wine persons and that honor is well deserved. He has consulted all around the world, including a terroir assessment of the Douro in Portugal. In Oregon, he helped to create the Southern Oregon AVA and conducted extensive grower surveys from 1998-2001. Then, in 2003, he established a presence at 29 Southern Oregon wineries to monitor climate, phenology, yield, fruit sampling, and much more. These surveys and studies have greatly benefited the region, providing much valuable information for the wineries, allowing them to better understand their terroir. His invaluable assistance has been instrumental in the growth of the Southern Oregon wine industry. His family is also involved in the region, owning the Abacela Winery. More wine regions need someone as passionate, dedicated and intelligent as Greg Jones.

8) Southern Oregon has plenty of sustainable vineyards.
Oregon has a long history of sustainable agriculture and is even the center for Demeter USA, the Biodynamic certification organization. About 47% of Oregon's vineyards are certified sustainable, and that number is growing, which you can also compare to the only 12% of California vineyards. Supporting Oregon wineries is thus good for the environment too. About 5% of Oregon wineries are certified Biodynamic, though only one winery in Southern Oregon, Cowhorn Vineyards, is so certified. It seems likely that other Southern Oregon wineries will eventually move to Biodynamic as it is a growing, albeit slowly, trend in Oregon. A concern for the environment extends to most, if not all, of the wineries in Southern Oregon.

9) Wine tourism in Southern Oregon needs assistance.
One obstacle to making Southern Oregon wines more popular is that wine tourism is not fully supported by the region. The primary problem lies with restrictive laws which severely limit what wineries can construct on their property. As these wineries and vineyards are considered by law to be farmland, it is extremely difficult for them to add a restaurant or inn to their property. These laws probably hurt the region far more than they help, by limiting wine tourism which would bring more income to the area. Look at most wine region destinations around the world, and restaurants and hotels/inns at the wineries contribute to their popularity. It can even be a safety issue, where tourists who taste wines at several wineries, and could possibly be intoxicated, would be able to dine at a restaurant, or get a room at the winery rather than drive elsewhere to seek them.

10) Southern Oregon needs more wines under $15.
In general, Oregon wineries focus on producing higher end wines, costing $20 and over. As such, a significant number of consumers find Oregon wines to be too expensive for every day consumption. For Southern Oregon, which currently lacks the fame or singular identity of the Willamette Valley, it thus becomes much harder to penetrate the market. Fortunately, at least a few producers in the Southern Oregon region are starting to address that issue by producing wines that cost less than $15, catering to maybe the largest consumer market. For example, the Valley View Rogue Red, pictured above, is a red blend that sells for around $10 a bottle. Hopefully, we shall see more value priced wines from Southern Oregon, as well as the rest of Oregon too.

Ten Things You Should Know About Southern Oregon (Part 1)

The "3 Ps" of Oregon are Portland, Precipitation & Pinot Noir.

Greg Jones, a climatologist at Southern Oregon University, made the above statement, stating it was a common belief in Oregon. Pinot Noir and Oregon is such a famous combination, a singular identity that is known across the world, elevating the Willamette Valley to being the most recognizable American Viticultural Area (AVA) in Oregon. With over 300 wineries and 610 vineyards, accounting for nearly 75% of Oregon's wine production, the Willamette Valley seems to get almost all of the attention and publicity.

Most consumers probably couldn't identify another Oregon AVA besides Willamette. They might not even realize that there is Oregon wine made outside of the Willamette. However, consumers should learn about the other Oregon's AVAs, especially Southern Oregon, which has much to offer outside of the realm of Pinot Noir.

Recently, I traveled to Oregon, as part of a journalist trip sponsored by the Oregon Wine Board, and was accompanied by two other wine writers, Erin Guenther and Michael Cervin. From Medford to Portland, we visited both Southern Oregon and the Willamette Valley, tasting plenty of wine, meeting numerous wine makers, and enjoying the bounty of local cuisine. It was harvest time at most of the wineries, one of the earliest harvests in years, so it was a great time to visit, to see the wineries in operation. It was also an extremely busy time for the wineries, and my gratitude goes out to all of those who took some of their precious time to meet with us. Though I knew the Southern AVA existed before I journeyed there, my experience with the wines from this region was very limited so I was eager to learn more about this area and to sample the wines they produce.

The Southern Oregon AVA has five sub-AVAs, including Rogue Valley, Umpqua Valley, Red Hill Douglas County, Applegate Valley and Elkton. Though Southern Oregon is generally a warm-climate region, it possesses about 70 microclimates, and includes cool-climate areas. The region has over 65 wineries and 230 vineyards, and its history with wine extends back over 150 years. In fact, Southern Oregon is the locale of several vinous firsts for Oregon, including the first grape vineyards, the first Pinot Noir plantings, and the first commercial winery. Willamette Valley may be more famous, but the importance of Southern Oregon to the wine industry should not be forgotten.

Around 1847, Henderson Luelling, a horticulturist from Indiana (who also spent ten years in Iowa), moved to the Rogue Valley in Oregon and planted the first grapes, as well as numerous other fruits. When he initially departed for the Oregon Territory, he took with him around 700 fruit trees and berry bushes, hoping to eventually plant them in the Oregon soil. That was quite a large burden to transport across half the country and he ended up losing about half of them on route. However, he had enough trees and plants left to successfully plant a number of orchards, including apples, cherries and pears. As there were few other orchards in Oregon at that time, Luelling eventually became wealthy due to his plantings. It is also interesting to know that Luelling's brother, Seth, developed the Bing Cherry.

Luelling and his son-in-law, William Meek, planted the Isabella grape in Oregon, an American hybrid grape that may have been developed in South Carolina in 1816, though there is some disagreement over its actual origin. It is alleged that Leulling and Meek won a medal for one of their Isabella wines at the California State Fair in 1859. That might be the first Oregon wine to win a medal at any wine competition, and it might not have been until 1904 that another Oregon wine would win a competition medal.

In the 1850s, Peter Britt, a Swiss immigrant and photographer, came to the Oregon Territory because of gold fever. Though his primary income was through photography, he tried his hand at mining as well. A man of eclectic interests, he also was intrigued by horticulture and took time to plant orchards, such as pears and peaches, and eventually even grapes. He planted his own vineyards in the Rogue Valley, also eventually establishing, in 1873, the first commercial winery, the Valley View Vineyard, in Jacksonville.

In 1859, Oregon became an official state and took a census the next year, noting that annual wine production was approximately 2,600 gallons, or roughly 1000 cases, though that probably includes both fruit and grape wines. About twenty years later, Peter Britt alone would be producing 1000-3000 gallons of wine, which he sold locally for only 50 cents a gallon. Britt is also responsible for planting over 200 types of grapes, both vinifera and labrusca, in the Rogue Valley, experimenting with their suitability to the region. He might have even been the first person to plant Pinot Noir in Oregon.

Unfortunately, in 1916, Oregon instituted Prohibition, four years prior to the federal ban, and it would last until 1933. In essence, it destroyed the burgeoning wine industry and it would take nearly thirty years after the lifting of Prohibition before the industry started to rebound. In the late 1950s, Richard Sommer, a UC Davis graduate and often referred to as the "Father of Oregon wine," established the HillCrest Vineyard in the Umpqua Valley. In 1961, he planted the first documented Pinot Noir vines in Oregon, releasing his first Pinot Noir wine in 1967. The first Pinot Noir vines wouldn't be planted in the Willamette Valley until 1965. Sommer planted other grapes too, including Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Gewürztraminer, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon, and Zinfandel. This would herald the start of the modern wine industry in Oregon.

However, the main interest for vineyards and wine production seemed to now center in the Willamette Valley, forged by pioneers such as David Lett, Charles Coury, and Dick Erath, who planted their vineyards in the 1960s. During the 1970s, new vineyards were established in the Rogue Valley though growth was relatively slow. By 1987, there were only 5 wineries and 38 vineyards in the Southern Oregon region though by 2009, there were over 40 wineries, with 113 vineyards.

In 1984, the Umpqua Valley was the first region in Southern Oregon to be declared an AVA. This was the same year that the Willamette Valley was declared an AVA. The Rogue Valley would become an AVA in 1991, though both the Umpqua and Rogue would be subsumed in 2004 under the larger Southern Oregon AVA. The newest sub-AVA in Southern Oregon is Elkton, which was declared in 2013.

My understanding of Southern Oregon has been expanded and enhanced through my visit to this region. At this time, I want to present a list of Ten Things You Should Know About Southern Oregon, to give you a foundation of some important items so that you can better understand this largely under-appreciated region and its wines. I would also recommend that if you travel to Oregon that you should take some time to visit Southern Oregon, and don't just spend all your time in the Willamette Valley.

1) Southern Oregon is breathtaking.
Upon my arrival in Medford, Oregon, and throughout my time in Southern Oregon, I was struck by its natural beauty, the landscape largely dominated by mountains and forests. Majestic mountains, thrusting high into the clouds, and lush wooded areas that seemed to extend to the horizon. It invokes a sense of serenity and wonder, inflaming a passion for nature. And as we drove through the area, we saw plenty of animals being raised, including horses, cows, sheep, goats, llamas and emus. There are also many wild animals in the region, including bears, mountain lions, deer, turkeys and more. We onlu saw some turkeys. You'll feel a real connection to nature in Southern Oregon and that alone makes a visit to this region worthwhile.

2) The Southern Oregon wine industry is still relatively young.
Despite its lengthy history, with several vinous firsts, the modern wine industry in Southern Oregon is still relatively young, especially when compared to the Willamette Valley. There is only a small number of wineries, though some of the wines they are producing are excellent. Talking to a number of wine makers, it seems clear that many are still trying to work out which grapes work best, what type of wines to create, and more. It is a time of experimentation, discovery and learning. There is much potential here and continued growth is probably a given. They have only scratched the surface with their vineyards, and up to another 250,000 acres could possibly be planted. I love the excitement and passion of new wine regions, and I foresee Southern Oregon gaining much respect in the near future.

3) Southern Oregon wineries are small operations.
The 40+ wineries in this region are generally small, many producing less than 5000 cases and those few wineries producing around 20,000 cases feel that they are large, though most others outside the region wouldn't. Because of their small size, it can be difficult to find their wines outside of Oregon. As they lack the cachet of Willamette Valley, these wines are much more of a handsell, and require a large investment of time and effort for marketing and sales by the winery, especially outside of Oregon. Not all wineries can afford that time and effort, so they concentrate their efforts just within the state. In time, if these wineries grow larger, then maybe it would be worthwhile for more of them to market to areas outside off Oregon. So if you want to experience their wines, you generally need to visit the region.

4) There are plenty of passionate wine people in Southern Oregon.
I met such a diversity of people involved in the wine industry Southern Oregon, from enthusiastic young people to older people who also possessed great enthusiasm. A number of them were transplants, from other states or even countries, who sought out Oregon for their wine careers. Others were starting second careers, having retired from a range of other occupations, and a number of them had never worked in wine before. What brought them all to Southern Oregon was a passion for wine. They certainly weren't there to make a fortune, and they generally seemed satisfied to make an adequate living from their wineries. There is a lack of pretension in this region, and there is also a sense of collaboration between the wineries, that they are friends rather than competitors. It is a real pleasure to meet and chat with these fine people.

To Be Continued...

Fontodi Winery: Refreshing A Chianti Tradition

Giovanni Manetti, the owner of the Fontodi winery, is a man of conviction, desirous of reconnecting with an old Chianti tradition, and he is surrounded in the Panzano region by many people with similar beliefs. The Panzano region is a model in some respects for other wine regions, a story of cooperation, a story of principles, a story of connecting with nature.

Though Giovanni was dressed as a businessman, it seemed clear he was very much home in the vineyards, even walking through the Chianina cow enclosure with us to give us a closer look at those fine creatures. His passion and good humor were evident and it was a pleasure to spend time with him. Giovanni was also quite excited as Fontodi had just won an Oscar del Vino for Best Winery of the Year 2012, awarded by the Italian Association of Sommeliers.

Giovanni's family was once in the terracotte tile business and Giovanni's father was passionate about wine. In 1968, his father purchased the Fontodi estate, having known the previous owner. The estate is located in what is known as the Conca d'Oro ("Golden Bowl"), because the area's shape resembles an amphitheater. The Manetti family residence is situated in the middle of the estate, and Giovanni loves to walk through the vineyards.

The estate extends over 130 hectares of which 80 are planted with vineyards, and over 95% of those vineyards are planted with Sangiovese. That works well as most of their soil is galestro, considered the best soil for Sangiovese. Besides a little Cabernet Sauvignon, the vineyards also have a little Pinot Noir and Syrah, both planted in 1985, and the winery produces about four to five thousand cases of those wines. In fact, Fontodi may be one of the last vineyards in this region with any Pinot Noir. As for the Syrah, it was planted at the same time as Paolo di Marchi of Isole e Olena planted Syrah in his own vineyard. They did so though separately, without discussing it.

The estate also includes about 25 hectares of olive trees, from which they produce an extra virgin olive oil, a blend of Correggilo and Moraiolo olives. The overall estate has an average altitude of 450 meters, while most of the vineyards have a southern exposure, providing lots of sun during the day and cool nights, perfect growing weather.

As a winery owner, Giovanni believes it is a "moral duty to do our best, to maximize the potential." As such, Giovanni wanted to reinstate a Chianti tradition, to create a closed system Tuscan farm. The estate has possessed vineyards for many years and practiced what many would consider "biodynamic" practices before Steiner's agricultural lectures of 1924 detailed the practices. Fontodi is now a certified organic estate, inspired by a concern for nature and sustainability, seeking a better expression of terroir.

They also perform many biodynamic practices, though they do not use any of the preparations so they will never be certified as biodynamic. The phases of the moon are very important to Giovanni and certain vineyard and cellar practices are guided by those moon phases. For example, they feel that the moon's elliptical orbit changes gravity and thus affects liquids so the descending moon is considered best for removing sediment and bottling. On the other hand, the ascending moon is considered best for replanting vineyards.

Cover crops are grown in the vineyard, with barley situated in every other row of grape vines (as pictured above). The barley, harvested in July, is used to feed their cows and the barley also helps by absorbing excess nitrogen, which leads to smaller grape berries with thicker skin. I have previously discussed the Chianina cows that Giovanni raises on his estate, another element of that closed farm system as well as continuing a practice which had been done by his father.

Giovanni also stated that the winery had not seen an overall increase in expenses because they went organic, as though they needed more labor, they saved money from not needing to purchase products such as pesticides. He admits that organic will not work everywhere, but that those areas where it can be done are quality regions. Giovanni also feels that it is easy to make good wine anywhere if you use chemicals. In the Chianti Classico region, you will find very few biodynamic producers and only a small portion, maybe 20%, of organic producers. But that may be changing.

There are about twenty wineries in the Panzano region and about 80% are now either organic or biodynamic, and even the few holdouts are moving in that direction. Only ten years ago, that was not the case as only 4-5 of those wineries were organic/biodynamic. The Panzano wineries don't really view themselves as competitors, as they generally share a similar philosophy and strategy. That has enabled them to create a region that is almost completely organic, and within five years could be 100% organic. They share convictions and principles, which have enabled them to work together for this greater objective. Other wine regions should look to Panzano as a shining example of cooperation.

To Giovanni, a "bottle of wine is something to enjoy." That is certain a truism, reducing wine to its most essential aspect. For a wine is nothing if it cannot be enjoyed. I would also add that a bottle of wine is something to be shared as well, and not just enjoyed on one's own. About 50% of Fontodi's production is Chianti Classico, which is 100% Sangiovese, and their best export market is currently North America.

We had lunch with Giovanni at the Osteria Le Panzanelle, a more traditional Tuscan restaurant which also uses many seasonal ingredients. During lunch, we tasted through a few Fontodi wines as some of their olive oil, which was fresh, clean, and fruity. The food at this restaurant was quite tasty and we shared a number of appetizers before each having our own entree.

A steak tartare, with tender, red beef, that is simply prepared with a little spice, olive oil and lemon. Why do so many U.S. restaurants add so many other ingredients to their tartare?

For my entree, I chose the Tagliatelle con ragu di agnello (a lamb sauce), and it was superb. Fresh pasta, cooked to a firm al dente, with lots of flavorful and well spiced lamb. It was a plentiful dish and a Chianti Classico was an excellent pairing. A hearty Tuscan meal that is sure to satisfy any hunger.

The 2009 Fontodi Chianti Classico, which is 100% Sangiovese, is fermented in stainless steel with indigenous yeasts and spends about 12 months in French oak barrels. It was a bit more modern in style, with sweet red fruits, good acidity, and a bright freshness. An easy-drinking wine for pizza, pasta and burgers.

In comparison, the 2007 Fontodi Chianti Classico Riserva, Vigna del Sorbo, was more traditional in style despite the fact it is a blend of 90% Sangiovese and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. It is fermented in stainless steel with indigenous yeasts  and spends about 24 months in French oak barrels, about 50% new. The grapes were vinified separately and the wine sees no fining. Giovanni stated that his goal was "power and elegance" and he succeeded in that regard. There was a rustic element to the wine, with flavors of cherries, plum, violets, and a mild spice component. I preferred it to the basic Chianti Classico though both were good companions with our lunch.

Fontodi's top wine is their Flaccianello, a Super Tuscan which they started producing back in 1981. The concept behind this wine was to make the best wine they could from 100% Sangiovese. They use only their best grapes, all hand harvested and double sorted. There is a minimum of 20-30 days of maceration and they use only indigenous yeast with very little sulfur dioxide. The wine also spends a minimum of 18 months in new French oak barrels, and usually two years in the bottle. About 50-60,000 bottles are annually produced. Though it would quality now as Chianti Classico, Fontodi still keeps it as an IGT wine. The prominent cross on the label is a design from the church on the estate which has existed there for centuries.

The 2007 Flaccianello is very dark red in color, almost purple, with a muted aroma of spice and black fruit. On the palate, it is dark and brooding, with plenty of ripe fruit flavors, strong spice, a hint of eucalyptus, fine grain tannins, good acidity and a lengthy finish. It may possess a bit more power than elegance but that will likely balance out with a bit of aging. It is an excellent wine though I would prefer it with more maturity.

What a difference with ten more years of aging! The 1997 Flaccianello, which is from one of the vintages of the century, showed the vast potential of this wine. The color has faded some, and there is a bit of brown, and the aroma is more pronounced, with plenty of subtleties. Though it still possesses some power, the finesse  and elegance is dominant. There were alluring and complex flavors of black fruits, minerality, dark spice and earthiness. Silky tannins and a long and lingering finish, this is a wine to slowly savor over dinner, to relish every fine sip.

The 1982 Flaccianello, which was only its second vintage, was an even lighter red color with much more brown, and a bit of a musty aroma. But with a little time in the glass, the mustiness vanished. It was an interesting wine, that was pure elegance with intriguing flavors of earth, black truffle, licorice, and dried fruit. There was almost a smokiness to it as well. I loved how the Flaccianello evolved over time, and it is evidence of the great potential of Sangiovese.

Chianti Classico is usually made more for commercial purposes, but the production of Vin Santo is often more personal. Giovanni stated that, "Vin Santo is at the heart of Chianti Classico" and that it is first made for the family and then the remainder can be sold off commercially. The 2003 Fontodi Vin Santo is a blend of 50% Sangiovese and 50% Malvasia de Chianti, the grapes which have dried out for 5-6 months. It had a minimum of 7 years of aging and has 300 grams of residual sugar and 12.5% alcohol. This wine had a dark amber color and was rich with a nice melange of apricots, dates, orange peel, dried fruit, and mild spicer. It is sweet but with a good acidity that balances much of it. A great choice for a dessert wine.