Showing posts with label cider. Show all posts
Showing posts with label cider. Show all posts

Friday, December 21, 2018

2018: Favorite Spirits, Sake, Cocktails & Drink-Related Items

What were some of my favorite spirits and drink-related items of the past year?

Let me finish out the lists of my best recommendations and favorites of 2018. I've already posted my Top Wine lists, Favorite Wine-Related Items, Top Ten Restaurant Dishes, Favorite Restaurants & Food-Related Items and my Top 50 Restaurants. This post will now concentrate on some of my Favorite Spirits, Sake, Cocktails & Drink-Related Items. This is certainly not a complete list but it is more a sampling of compelling and memorable matters I have experienced and posted about over the past year.

This is also a purely subjective list, based on my own preferences, and makes no claims about being the "best" of anything. But all of the items here have earned my strong recommendations and I hope you will enjoy them as well. For more spirits, Sake, cocktails and drink-related items, you can just search my blog posts for the past year.

Favorite Achievement in Spirits Writing: In The Rise Of Tequila In The 18th & 19th Centuries, I provided some historical background of how some Mezcal in Mexico eventually became known as Tequila. Much of the history deals with the 19th century, and includes quotes from numerous newspapers of that time period. There are plenty of intriguing tidbits about Tequila, from its pricing to how it was viewed in the U.S. And some of this information isn't found in any of the popular books about tequila.

Most Unusual Spirits Article: Alcohol is made from a wide variety of plants, from grape vines to grains, and various spices and herbs may be used in its creation as well. However, some people have also added animal parts to their alcohols, such as Mexico's famed Pechuga Mezcal. In my article, Animal Alcohol: Lamb Wine, Pigeon Blood Wine, Spirit of Goat & More, I discuss some of the more unique alcohols that used animals, mostly produced in Asia. I'm not sure how popular those spirits would be in the U.S. but I would be interested in at least sampling them.

Favorite Blended Scotch Whisky: Funded by a Kickstarter, the Sia Blended Scotch Whiskey has an intriguing nose, with touches of vanilla, spice, caramel and a tiny waft of smoke. On the palate, it is silky smooth, lacking the burn you find in some other Scotches. You'll find a melange of pleasing flavors, including caramel and vanilla, a strong spicy backbone, and more subtle hints of citrus, smoke, and toffee. It possesses a touch of sweetness and has a lengthy, satisfying finish. It accomplishes its goal of being approachable and accessible. And 1% of sales are donated to charities that help women start and grow their businesses.

Favorite U.S. Single Malt Whiskey: Created in Oregon, the Rogue Spirits Oregon Single Malt Whiskey is made from only three ingredients: Rogue Farms Risk™ Malt, Free-Range Coastal Water & Pacman Yeast, and it was aged for about five years in American oak. This light-colored whiskey possesses an alluring aroma, a complex blend of intriguing scents, which will make you simply sit and sniff your glass for a time, enjoying the aroma alone. On the palate, the complexity remains, with a fascinating melange of flavors, caramel to vanilla, baking spice to stone fruit, citrus to chocolate. Silky smooth, well-balanced and with a lengthy & satisfying finish. Absolutely delicious and it will please any whiskey lover.

Favorite Gin: Also from the Rogue Ale & Spits in Oregon, the Rogue Spirits Spruce Gin is the type of gin I prefer, presenting a delicious, intriguing and balanced mix of botanicals. The ingredient lists includes Spruce, Juniper Berries, Ginger, Fresh Cucumber, Orris Root, Orange Peel, Lemon Peel, Tangerine, Grains of Paradise, Angelica Root, Coriander & Free Range Coastal Water. On the nose, there is an intense smell of juniper, but beneath the dominant juniper are more subtle notes of the other botanicals, such as the spruce and citrus. On the palate, the botanicals balance out into a delicious and interesting combination, from fresh cucumber to herbal spruce, bright citrus and hints of spice. This could easily be drank on its own, with a little tonic, or make for an excellent component in a cocktail.

Favorite Brandy: I love Georgian wine, so it was inevitable that I would expand my samplings to include Georgian Chacha, a pomace brandy. The Askaneli Brothers Premium Chacha is matured in oak barrels for at least 12 months, and is filtered, which accounts for its colorless nature. With a 45% ABV, this chacha has an intriguing floral aroma and was surprising smooth and mild on the palate, with only a minor alcoholic bite. It possessed pleasant and more subtle flavors of hazelnut and citrus with floral accents. It was elegant, with a fairly long finish, and is definitely a very good value at its price. I definitely need to seek out more Chacha.

Favorite Spirits Book: John P. McEvoy published the second edition of his fascinating and informative guide to Mezcal, "Holy Smoke! It’s Mezcal!" The first edition was a comprehensive guide that I recommended often, and the second edition is even better. I should disclose as well that I'm mentioned in this new edition for my research into the origins of Pechuga Mezcal. The book is written in a fun and easy style, making it accessible for people of any knowledge level, and you'll enjoy some of the humorous bits scattered through the book. If you want to learn about Mezcal, this book will give you plenty of knowledge, recommendations and more.

Favorite Sherry BarTaberna de Haro wins this category hands-down, once again, as there is no other local restaurant which comes close. With over 60 Sherries, including some rarer bottlings, Chef/Owner Deborah Hansen has compiled an amazing Sherry list, offering a good number by the glass. The Sherries pair very well with her Spanish cuisine and I could easily sit at the bar all night sampling different Sherries, from a bone dry Fino to a sublime aged Palo Cortado. If you are ever in the area, you must stop here and try some Sherry.

Favorite Restaurant Cocktail: While sitting at the bar at La Bodega By Salts in Watertown, I perused their cocktail list and one item leaped out at me, and I knew I needed to try it. The Mangalitsa Old Fashioned is made with Amarena Wild Cherries, Angostura, and Mangalitsa Jamon Infused Bourbon. The Mangalitsa is a Hungarian heritage breed of pig, with a wooly coat, and its flesh is wonderfully delicious. The cocktail was excellent, very savory with a briny element to it, enhanced by hints of vanilla and cherry.

Runner-Up Favorite Restaurant Cocktails: Committee, the Greek restaurant in the Seaport, has a very good cocktail program, and two of their cocktails especially impressed me. The first is the Piscoteca, made with Pisco Barsol Verde, house-made tropical fassionola syrup, and lime. It was more dry, with intriguing tropical fruit flavors and a delightful vein of the Pisco. Very refreshing, it would also be a nice summer cocktail. Second is the Holy Smokes , made with Del Magüey Vida mezcal, Lillet Blanc, lemon, cinnamon, and tepache. The smoky agave spirit is prominent, enhanced by the spice and citrus, making it complex, refreshing and delicious. Another excellent choice for a summer cocktail.

Favorite Brunch Cocktail: At a killer brunch at Ledger in Salem, I enjoyed their 22 oz Bloody Mary, which is garnished with celery, an olive, a gherkin, and a hot pepper. It was a well made drink, with a pleasant spiciness and some other intriguing spices that were hard to identify, but which helped to make this cocktail different from many other Bloody Marys. And at only $14, it is a very good deal as well.

Favorite Beer: I dislike most beer, as I am very sensitive to the bitterness of hops and that taste turns me off. Every once in a while though, I find a beer that appeals to me. This year, I was impressed with the Backacre Beermaker Sour Golden Ale, produced by a brewery in Vermont. My friend Marc Hurwitz, the author of Boston's Hidden Restaurants, brought me a bottle of this beer, thinking that I might enjoy it, and he was certainly correct. This beer is inspired by the Gueuze, a Belgian lambic. With a nice golden color, I was impressed with its complex blend of flavors, with plenty of tartness, bright citrus notes, spice notes, and earthy hints. It certainly reminded me of certain, more natural ciders, and if blind tasted tested, many might not even realize this was a beer. Highly recommended!

Favorite Cider Paired Dinner: It is rare to find restaurants offering multi-course dinners paired with hard ciders. This year, Post 390 hosted a superb Farm to Post With Kimball Fruit Farm, with several heritage production, single-harvest ciders. The food was delicious, from Roast Pigeon to Heritage Porchetta, and the cider pairings worked so well. In addition, the ciders were intriguing, tasty, and tended to be more dry. Everyone near me at the dinner really enjoyed the food and ciders, and overall, it was an excellent experience. We need more cider-paired dinners!

Favorite Cider: From the Farm to Post With Kimball Fruit Farm, my favorite cider of the year was the Eden Specialty Ciders Ezekiel, a single varietal cider made from Kingston Black apples of the Windfall Orchard. This cider was also aged about about 12 months in an oak barrel. With an 8% ABV, this cider possessed an alluring aroma and on the palate it was a stunner. With a full body, it was elegant and crisp, complex and subtle, intriguing and delicious. It was dry, well-balanced and had a lengthy, satisfying finish, pairing very well with the porchetta. Frankly, it was one of the best ciders I've tasted in quite some time.

Favorite Daiginjo Sake: The Born Tokusen Junmai Daiginjo is produced from the highest quality Yamada Nishiki rice, polished down to 38%. What helps to make this Sake more unique is that it was aged for at least two years at 32 degrees Fahrenheit, the freezing point of water.  The aroma of this Sake is alluring and seductive, with rich fruit smells, floral accents and hints of spice. And on the palate, the complexity of its taste thoroughly impresses. There is a rich mouthfeel, an intense depth of flavor including tastes of citrus, melon, grapefruit, pear, vanilla, and licorice. It is silky smooth and elegant, with a lengthy, pleasing finish. Every sip brings something new to my mouth and made me crave the next sip. Simply superb.

Favorite Restaurant For Sake: I've previously mentioned that Momi Nonmi is my Favorite Japanese Restaurant of the year, and part of the reasons for that is due to their Sake program. Their Sake sommelier, Stephen Connolly, has curated an intriguing and delicious list of Sake, and his knowledge and passion are quite evident as he helps diners with Sake pairings. It is a restaurant where Sake plays a dominant role, and isn't just an after thought. Go here for delicious food and Sake,  and gain a bit of a Sake education.

What were some of your favorite spirits, cocktails, Sake, and drink-related items this year?

Thursday, March 22, 2018

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I am back again with a new edition of Thursday Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting, upcoming food & drink events.
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1) Guests are invited to continue the St. Patrick’s Day celebrations with Glendalough Distillery, Ireland’s first craft distillery, on Wednesday, March 28, at 6:30pm, at Formaggio Kitchen in Cambridge. While wine often takes the spotlight, whiskey and cheese make excellent partners, and you'd be hard-pressed to find stronger advocates for that fact than the team behind this class. Guests are welcomed to join Dan Pontius, Bar Manager of Alden and Harlow and Donal O'Gallachoir, a representative for Glendalough Distillery, along with Julia Hallman, cheesemonger and general manager at Formaggio Kitchen Cambridge, for a spectacular evening of whiskey and cheese.

During this edible lesson on how and why whiskey and cheese pair so well together, Donal will explain the origin and rich history of Glendalough Distillery as well as the vast and distinct flavors associated with the various types. Next, Julia will discuss a variety of cheeses, how they are made and what characteristics make them a perfect complement for whiskey. Together, they'll plate up some of our favorite cheeses alongside a variety of whiskey styles in a multi-flight tasting to illustrate the toothsome and tasty potential of this kind of pairing. Lastly, not to be outdone, Dan will whip up a couple whiskey cocktails highlighting Glendalough Distillery which will be perfectly paired with cheese.

More details below on the latest from Glendalough Whiskey:
Founded by five friends from Wicklow and Dublin with a deep passion for reviving the heritage of craft distilling in Ireland, Glendalough Distillery has forged their own path to produce innovative spirits while staying true to the tradition and legacy of their Irish ancestors. Glendalough (meaning The Valley of Two Lakes) is a glacial valley nestled in the Wicklow Mountains renowned for its early medieval monastic settlement founded in the 6th century by St. Kevin, a legendary monk and the man depicted on their bottle.

The Double Barrel Irish Whiskey gains its sweet, smooth vanilla notes from three years in bourbon barrels before being transferred to 500 litre Oloroso casks from Montilla, for up to a year, where it becomes steeped in rich, dark, fruity and floral flavors (raisins, sultanas, fig, candied peel, cinnamon and nutmeg) with a nutty, complex finish.

The 7 Year Old Single Malt gets its flavor from Dublin’s Black Pitts Porter craft beer barrels, the deep, dark flavors of chocolate malt and roasted barley give the whiskey its cocoa, toffee and dark-chocolate-orange notes.

The 13 Year Old Single Malt is the first and only Irish whiskey that uses Japanese Mizunara oak. Extremely rare and expensive, the oak is found in the forests of Hokkaido; its high levels of vanillins pack a punch, with exquisite sandalwood flavors, layered with honey, and citrusy notes for a distinctly unique tasting whiskey.

Tickets cost $65 and you can purchase them through Eventbrite.

2) Executive Chef Nick Deutmeyer and the team at Post 390 are calling all cheese lovers for a special Massachusetts Cheese Trail Farm to Post menu, featuring a special kick off dinner showcasing the top Massachusetts cheese farmers.

Post 390 welcomes guest for a Farm to Post dinner on Wednesday, April 4, from 6pm-9pm, with the spotlight on Massachusetts artisan cheese farmers. Executive Chef Nick Deutmeyer takes guests on a journey through each course, highlighting specific notes of each decadent cheese and their perfect flavor pairings. Chef Nick has crafted a special Farm to Post menu to showcase these exquisite cheeses from award-winning local farms such as Upinngil Farm, Ruggles Hill Creamery, and Westfield Farm. Guests can mix and mingle with representatives from each farm, who will be onsite to share some details about their unique cheeses. The event kicks off at 6:00 p.m. and begins with a welcome reception followed by a seated four-course dinner.

The Massachusetts Cheese Trail dinner menu is as follows:
RECEPTION
Upinngil Farm (Gill, MA)
Upinggillar, Spinach, Bacon, Paté Brisée
Feta, Cucumber, Oven Roasted Tomato
Ayrshire, Herbed Butter Cracker, Jagerwurst
FIRST COURSE
Robinson Farm (Hardwick, MA)
Arpeggio "the aroma and flavor notes of the terroir in one bite"
Early Spring Asparagus, Sugar-Stack Ham, Foraged Morels, Caramelized Onion Soubise
SECOND COURSE
Ruggles Hill Creamery (Hardwick, MA)
Greta's Fair Haven "fruity, peppery, and densely textured"
Chilled Roast Chicken, Marbled Rye, Pickled Green Strawberries, Cracked Black Pepper, Green Peas
ENTRÉE
Westfield Farm (Hubbardston, MA)
Hubbardston Blue Cow "surface ripened...very soft and creamy center"
Garlic & Herb Leg of Lamb, Duck Fat Fried Potatoes, Lemon Smashed Peas, Pan Drippings
DESSERT
Smith Country Cheese (Winchendon, MA)
Extra Aged Gouda "creamy, nutty parm-like cheese"
Strawberry & Almond 'Shortcake', Aged Gouda Ice Cream, Strawberry-Gouda Crumb, Rhubarb Jam, Toasted Almonds
Take Home
Shy Brother’s Farm (Westport Point, MA)
Hannahbells "thimble-shaped morsels that pack a dramatic throw-weight of pungency and lingering flavor"

Tickets are $55 per person and include tax, gratuity, and beverage pairings. They can be purchased through Eventbrite. Reservations are required.

3) On Wednesday, March 28, from 7 to 10 pm, Joe's American Bar & Grill at 181 Newbury Street is hosting their second annual Down East Cider dinner. Guests will be able to enjoy a special menu prepared by new Executive Chef Scott Gagne featuring 5 courses of culinary treats paired with a different cider variation from the cider brewery for just $50 (excludes tax and gratuity).

The courses and cider pairings (all gluten free) are as follows:
AMUSE-BOUCHE
Oyster on the half shell with grapefruit and jalapeño granita
Cider Pairing: Hopped Grapefruit
STARTER
Gazpacho three ways with yellow heirloom tomatoes, yellow bell peppers, beets, lemongrass, ginger, and cucumber aspic
Cider Pairing: Ginger
APPETIZER
Purple Peruvian potato skins stuffed with double cider and chipotle braised chicken, and topped with a chicken skin crackling
Cider Pairing: Double Cider
ENTRÉE
Aloha pork wing with coconut pineapple rice, and hazelnuts wrapped in a banana leaf
Cider Pairing: Aloha Friday
DESSERT
Housemate ice cream floats with chocolate cookies and ice cream
Cider Pairing: Roasted Joe

Tickets are limited and can be purchased via the Joe's Down East Cider Dinner Eventbrite page.

4) Chef Chris Coombs and the Boston Chops staff invite guests to join them for a special four course Bourdeaux-inspired wine dinner on Monday, April 2nd, at 7 p.m. The evening will feature wine from France's wine capital, paired with a delectable Spring menu crafted by Chef Chris Coombs.

The menu will include:
To Begin
Bay Scallop Ceviche, Grapefruit, Tarragon Oil, Meyer Lemon
Chateau La Dame Blanche Bordeaux Blanc
Second
Truffled Mushroom Tartine, Boucheron, Micro Arugula
Chateau Pey Lescours St Emilion
Main
Grilled Hanger Steak, First of the Season Nettles, Fingerling Potatoes, Native Pea Greens
Chateau Haut-Vigneau Pessac Leognan
To Finish
Orange Blossom Gateau, Champagne Mango & Cara Cara Orange, Vanilla Glace
Castelnau de Suduiraut Sauternes

Tickets are $79 plus tax and gratuity, and can be reserved by calling (617) 227-5011.

Friday, December 15, 2017

2017: Favorite Spirits, Sake, Cocktails & Drink-Related Items

What were some of my favorite spirits and drink-related items of the past year?

Let me continue the lists of my best recommendations and favorites of 2017. I have already posted my Top Wine lists as well as Favorite Wine-Related Items. This post will now concentrate on some of my Favorite Spirits, Sake, Cocktails & Drink-Related Items. This is certainly not a complete list but it is more a sampling of compelling and memorable matters I have experienced and posted about over the past year.

This is also a purely subjective list, based on my own preferences, and makes no claims about being the "best" of anything. But all of the items here have earned my strong recommendations and I hope you will enjoy them as well. For more spirits, Sake, cocktails and drink-related items, you can just search my blog posts for the past year.

Favorite Achievement in Spirits Writing: This year, I'm especially proud of my article, An Expanded History of Pechuga Mezcal, where my research uncovered a wealth of documented references to Pechuga Mezcal, a type of mezcal that has been flavored with meat, as well as maybe some fruits and spices. Prior to my article, there were bottles from the 1930s that were labeled Pechuga but there was no known documentary evidence prior to that time. However, I found over 30 different written references to Pechuga before the 1930s, extending as far back as 1864. There is still more research needed in this area, but I was pleased to contribute my efforts to expanding the known history of this fascinating type of Mezcal.

Favorite Whisky Dinner: A great theme, killer whisky, and delicious food all combined to make the  Robert Burns Scotch Dinner at Civic Kitchen & Drink a wondrous experience. It was my first Burns Night celebration and I marveled at the ritual, the toasting, and the intriguing food, including Haggis, which I actually enjoyed very much. There was plenty of Scotch, each unique in its own right, and all quite tasty and complex. The crowd was fun and it was more than just a simple dinner, but an intriguing experience and the memories will remain for a very long time.

Favorite Blended Scotch Whisky: This year, I've attended two Compass Box tasting events, though I've only written about one of them so far. However, it is clear to me that Compass Box and its owner John Glaser are producing some excellent blended Scotches. I've enjoyed most of the portfolio that I've tasted and am impressed with the diversity of their whiskies. Their limited edition Double Single thoroughly impressed it, a silky smooth, complex and well-balanced whisky with a fascinating melange of flavors. There were hints of vanilla and caramel, berries and tropical fruit, herbs and spices. Each sip seemed to bring something new to my palate. Highly recommended.

Favorite Irish Whiskey: Tullamore DEW, the "official Irish whiskey" of the Boston Red Sox, is offered at the Tully Tavern, in Fenway Park, especially in the Monster Mule, a variation of the Moscow Mule that is made with 1 part Tullamore DEW, 4 parts Ginger Beer, and lime juice. They have a nice portfolio of whiskies, but my favorite was the Tullamore DEW 14 Year Old Single Malt which is matured in the usual three types of barrels, but then also spends a little time in Port and Madeira casks. On the nose, there are pleasant notes of apple and tropical fruit, and the palate also presents this fruit flavors, accompanied by a complex mix of vanilla, spice and caramel, with an elegant creaminess that caresses your palate. The finish lingers for quite a time and I can easily see myself sipping this all evening.

Favorite Whisky Rant: It is an issue which deserves attention but seems unlikely it will acquire what is needed. In my Rant, Whisky, Sherry Barrels & A Lack Of Transparency, I discuss how a number of whiskey producers are using Sherry-style barrels, from outside the legal Sherry region, but those barrels are still be labeled as Sherry barrels. Sherry is a protected term and it should be respected and honored yet some whiskey producers are failing to do so. We need more people to know that this problem exists and then hopefully a united effort and get whiskey producers to change their ways on this issue.

Favorite Spanish Whisky: Have you ever tasted whisky from Spain? Spain isn't a significant producer of whisky but you may hear more about Spain in the near future if whisky like the Navazos Palazzi Malt Whisky becomes more well known. Produced from malted barley grown in Spain, the whisky spends about four to six years aging in Palo Cortado Sherry casks, which is definitely a rarity in the whiskey industry. This whisky presents with a nice, dark amber color and its complex aroma is enticing, a blend of harmonious fruits and spices. You could easily sit and enjoy the diverse nose of this whiskey for quite some time before taking a sip. Your palate will be seduced by the complex, and sometimes subtle, melange of flavors that caress and tantalize. It is sweet, briny and savory, with plenty of fruit, from apples to raisins, as well as lots of spicy notes. Honey, caramel, and malt with clear Sherry notes and a long and lingering finish that satisfies to the last wispy taste. It is elegant and compelling, unique and delicious, a well-balanced whiskey that will surprise and delight.

Favorite Unique Whiskey: At The Townshend in Quincy, Palmer Matthews, their Bar Manager, introduced me to Dry Fly Distilling Straight Triticale Whiskey, which might be the only straight Triticale whiskey in the world. Triticale is a hybrid of rye and wheat which was created in Scotland in the late 19th century. I enjoyed a shot, chilled by a single large chunk of ice, and found the whiskey to be intriguing, with a nice spicy kick up front, which then became soft and almost sweet. As I love Rye whiskey, I savored the spicy element of the Triticale, but also liked how the wheat softened it more on the finish. If you want something more unusual, but still quite tasty seek out this Triticale.

Favorite Maryland Rye Whiskey: During a visit to the Tenth Ward Distilling Company, I had the chance to taste a few of their products and I was most taken with their Lindsay Stunkle Rye Whiskey which is named after a famous Prohibition-era bootlegger from Frederick, Maryland. This limited-release whiskey is made from a mashbill of 80% malted rye and 20% malted barley, and comes in at a whopping 120 proof. It is released twice a year, in June and November, and is intended for home aging. It is spicy and potent, enhanced by the addition of a little water, and will definitely appeal to rye lovers. There is complexity to its taste and a lengthy finish, and I would love to see this aged in the barrel for a number of years.

Runner-Up Favorite Maryland Rye Whiskey: Also from the Tenth Ward Distilling Company, a more unique Rye whiskey is the White Caraway Ryewhich is made from a mashbill of 80% malted rye and 20% malted barley, and comes in at 95 proof. The spirit is mashed with caraway seed so it is intended to taste more like rye bread, though it may also remind you of Scandinavian Akvavit. I was captivated by the intriguing flavors of this spirit, as it certainly reminded me of spicy rye bread, with a hint of mint. Though you could drink this on its own, I think it would be best used in creating some fascinating cocktails.

Favorite Gin: As I've said before, I'm not usually a fan of gin, disliking the over-powering juniper flavor I find in many, but I have enjoyed some that I felt were more well-balanced. Certainly a more unique gin, the Pierde Almas 9+ Botanicals is actually a hybrid Mezcal/Gin, using Mezcal as the base spirit and then adding nine botanicals, including juniper, coriander, star anise, fennel seed, orange peel, cassia bark, angelica root, orris root, and nutmeg. On the nose, the piney aroma of juniper is dominant though beneath that aroma were more subtle herbal notes. Once you taste it, the Mezcal elements make themselves known, and it is an intriguing and complex spirit. There are plenty of citrus notes up front, with an interesting melange of spices and herbs, as well as a smoky edge, especially on the finish. The piney notes of the juniper became much more integrated into the whole, and the other botanicals joined the complex mix. This is definitely a sipping spirit, which is quite enjoyable neat, and each sip seems to bring new flavors to your palate.

Runner-Up Gin: From the McClintock Distilling Co. in Maryland, their Forager Gin is a vapor infused New-World style gin using about 18 botanicals inspired by native herbs found in the Appalachian wilderness. On the nose, there is a strong juniper aroma with subtle hints of other botanicals in the background. On the palate, the botanical mix is more balanced, and the complex melange of flavors delights the mouth. There are elements of fruit, mainly citrus, and floral flavors, with a sprinkle of spice elements. The gin should be served chilled, and would be delicious on its own, or used in cocktails.

Favorite Rum: Rum actually has a lengthy history in the Oaxaca region, a place best known for Mezcal. However, little Oaxacan rum makes it out of Mexico, which is a shame. One of the recent exports is the stellar Paranubes Rum, brought to you by the good people of Mezcal Vago. Made from sugar cane juice, and not molasses, the Paranubes is made in a very traditional manner, the current producer being at least the 3rd generation in his family to produce this rum. Its aroma is very funky and prominent, with a saline character that reminds me of the smell of the ocean or an olive tapenade. The aroma doesn't follow through much on the palate, which instead brings a mild sweetness, a touch of grassiness, and some citrus and tropical fruit flavors. It is more light and elegant, with a lengthy and pleasing finish. It reminds me of a Rhum Agricole, and its distinctive and unique aroma and taste certainly sets it apart. The Paranubes can be consumed on its own though it also would work well in a variety of cocktails.

Favorite Unique Rum:
From Navazos Palazzi, which also made the Spanish whiskey I previously mentioned, comes another unique spirit, a Cask Strength Rum, aged in Sherry barrels. The base rum had been distilled in the Antilles, where it aged for five years in ex-Bourbon barrels, and then given to a Spanish Sherry bodega, where the rum further aged in Oloroso barrels for 10 years. The color of this rum was deep and dark, though with some translucence, reminding me in some ways of an aged Oloroso Sherry. I was enamored with the complex aromas that wafted up, seducing my nose. There was fruit and spice, nuts and chocolate, and it was a pleasure just to sit and enjoy the aromas. On the palate, I was initially pleased with the relative dryness of the rum. It wasn't one of the prominent sweet rums but rather its sweetness was of a more subtle nature, with underlying caramel, vanilla and molasses flavors. And the complexity of the nose was duplicated on the palate, such a compelling melange of flavors that seemed to present something new each sip I took. There was a certain nutty and saline character that reminded me of Sherry, but also bright citrus and plum notes. There were plenty of spicy elements, with a backbone of umami, and hints of leather. Elegant and fascinating, this rum had a pleasing, lengthy finish.

Favorite Mezcal: Pierde Almas, which made the Mezcal/Gin hybrid mentioned above, is primarily a Mezcal producer and they have an amazing portfolio. My current favorite is their  Maguey de Lumbre Mezcal, made from a rare and little-known agave. The aroma is more subtle, with hints of citrus and smoke, and the first taste is pure gustatory pleasure, a hedonistic revel in the complexities and flavors of the Mezcal. This was a compelling Mezcal and once I started looking deeper, it only became even more intriguing. Citrus notes dominated the flavor profile but there was much complexity providing harmony to the spirit. There was also a mild smokiness, subtle herbal accents, and wispy spice notes. Just sit and sip it and you'll realize the fascinating complexity of this spirit. The taste was clean and smooth, an elegant pleasure, something to slowly savor on a summer evening, though you could certainly enjoy this year round.

Favorite Pechuga Mezcal: Pierde Almas also produced my current favorite Pechuga Mezcal, the Mezcal de Conejo, which is produced using a rabbit. Pechuga is a type of mezcal that has been flavored with meat, as well as maybe some fruits and spices. Once I tasted this Pechuga, I was immediately struck by the anise notes in this Mezcal and then I could detect the ripe fruit flavors, especially pineapple, a mild smokiness, and a touch of a more wild and gamey element. It was complex and intriguing, a unique melange of flavors which should please any Mezcal lover. You wouldn't know this Mezcal was made with rabbit, but it still would make for an interesting addition to your Easter dinner.

Favorite Shochu: Shochu, a distilled spirit made in Japan, can be made from many different ingredients though sweet potato is considered one of the best choices. While dining at Tori Shin in New York City, I thoroughly enjoyed a glass of Shochu, the Tenshi no Yuwaku, which is a sweet potato Shochu that was fermented in Sherry casks for about 10 years. This is a more unique Shochu as few are ever aged this long. It's name translates as "Angel's Temptation," a reference to the Angel's Share, the amount of spirit that evaporates over time while it ages in a barrel. I enjoyed it neat, finding it rich and creamy, with intense Sherry notes, hints of sweetness, and plenty of complexity.

Favorite New Liqueur: A collaborative effort between companies in Britain & France, the Escubac seems to have its roots in Ireland. It is a "juniper-free botanical spirit," made from a base of neutral sugar beet alcohol with the addition of 14 botanicals. After it is distilled, they infuse it with saffron and sweeten it with raisins, vanilla, and sugar. The Escubac has some sweetness up front but it wasn't cloying or overly sweet, and it was complemented with a mix of citrus and herbal notes, with intriguing spice notes and a touch of bitterness. I was pleased with its complex and intriguing melange of flavors, and it can easily be used in a variety of cocktails.

Favorite Baijiu: With many Americans, the Chinese spirit Baijiu suffers an image problem, often considered to have a terrible, off-putting taste. Though there are some Baijiu with very strong aromas and tastes, others have much lighter and appealing flavors and are worthy of attention. Made in New Zealand, Taizi Baijiu, the creation of two Chinese brothers, would be a great introduction to Baijiu for anyone. With its clear color, the Baijiu has an intriguing nose of berries and licorice, and on your palate, the berry flavors are very prominent upfront with more licorice notes on the finish. It has a slightly oily texture, but drinks very smooth and balanced, and you wouldn't realize its high alcohol content. There is an underlying complexity, more subtle notes, including some herbal elements, accenting the Baijiu. One of the best Baijiu I've ever tasted, I highly recommend it.

Favorite Chicago Bars: On a whirlwind visit to Chicago, I was fortunate to visit two cool and compelling bars, including Income Tax and Estereo. Income Tax, which has been open for a year, is cozy and elegant, with a lengthy bar and a casual, welcoming vibe. Their drinks list is diverse and interesting, and they carry some Sherry by the glass. Their food is also quite tasty, and is great for pairing with a glass of wine or a cocktail. Service is excellent as well, and it is the type of neighborhood bar you really should frequent. Estereo is also a neighborhood bar, specializing in spirits from Mexico, Central America, and South America such as Cachaca, Pisco, Mezcal, Tequila, Sotol and more. Great cocktails, incredible diversity in their spirits, knowledgeable staff, and a fun & lively atmosphere make this a great place to drink.

Favorite Sherry BarTaberna de Haro wins this category hands-down, once again, as there is no other local restaurant which comes close. With over 60 Sherries, including some rarer bottlings, Chef/Owner Deborah Hansen has compiled an amazing Sherry list, offering a good number by the glass. The Sherries pair very well with her Spanish cuisine and I could easily sit at the bar all night sampling different Sherries, from a bone dry Fino to a sublime aged Palo Cortado. If you are ever in the area, you must stop here and try some Sherry.

Favorite Restaurant Cocktail: The Schrodinger's Coupe is available at Sumiao Hunan Kitchen, which makes several other Baijiu cocktails too. The Coupe is made with Baijiu, curaçao, grapefruit, lime and plum bitters. It's Baijiu taste was accompanied by some sour fruit flavors with a hint of grapefruit. It wasn't overly sweet and was a refreshing summer drink.

Favorite Restaurant Hot Cocktail: While at a Burns Night dinner at Civic Kitchen & Drink, we began the evening with the Ginger Rabbie, a hot cocktail, made with Towiemore Classic Scotch, tea, molasses, and ginger. It was similar in some respects to a hot toddy, only mildly alcoholic, lightly sweet, and with a pleasing taste of tea and spice. Great for the winter.

Favorite Daiginjo Sake: The Kirin-Zan Junmai Daiginjo, which comes in a cool pentagonal blue bottle, is a superb Sake, elegant and complex, with such an alluring taste. It is clean and bright, with subtle citrus notes, some peach and melon, and a lengthy, pleasing finish. It is said to be "reminiscent of a clean mountain stream," and it possesses such a sense of purity, a Sake that pairs perfectly with nigiri. This is a Sake which impresses and I highly recommend it. Find it locally at Pabu Boston.

Favorite Junmai Ginjo Sake: I was impressed with the unique Hakkaisan Snow-Aged Junmai Ginjo, which spends three years in an insulated storage room chilled only by 1000 tons of snow! It is a Genshu, undiluted by water, and has a high acidity. I found the Hakkaisan to have a more subtle aroma and on the palate presented an elegant, deep complexity with hints of melon and a touch of anise. It was full-bodied and smooth with rich, savory umami. A hedonistic pleasure that is extremely food friendly. It can be found locally at Reliable Market.

Runner-Up Favorite Junmai Ginjo Sake: While dining at Torishin, a killer Yakitori restaurant in New York City, I ordered a carafe of Fukuju Junmai Ginjo and it was so delicious I had to order a second carafe. The Sake was simply superb, with a dry, clean and elegant taste with plenty of fruit notes. It was silky smooth, drank so easily, and I could have sat all night savoring this Sake. Highly recommended.

Favorite Kimoto/Yamahai Sake: The Suehiro Densho Yamahai Junmai Sake is produced from Gohyakumangoku rice, and is a typical Yamahai Sake, with delicious earthy notes, high acidity and plenty of umami. It is easy drinking, smooth, and complex with a hint of citrus, smoke, and sweetness. Simply a delicious Sake, which will pair well with many different foods, from mushroom risotto to a grilled steak.

Runner-Up Favorite Kimoto/Yamahai Sake: The Sohomare Tokubetsu Kimoto Sake has a high acidity and it was quite compelling, a mellow and smooth-drinking Sake with plenty of delicious umami. It has a richness to the mouthfeel, a lengthy and satisfying finish, and is something I could sit and drink all day. There is a mild earthiness to the Sake which enhances the totality. A well-made and delicious Sake, it would be an excellent pairing with umami dishes, especially mushroom or truffle-based ones, and would also go well with various meats.

Favorite Sake Store: It is difficult to find a local wine shop that carries a large and diverse Sake selection. However, Reliable Market, in Union Square, Somerville, has been enlarging their selection, and stock many of their Sake in refrigerated cases. You'll find plenty of Sake, of all types, in regular-sized bottles as well as half-bottles, at a range of price points. They also carry both local Sakes, Dovetail (from Waltham) and Blue Current (from Kittery, Maine). Reliable Market probably has the best and largest Sake selection in the Boston-area and you should check it out.

Favorite Sake News: Back in April 2015, I posted an article, An Expanded History of Sake Brewing in the U.S., which discussed the early history of Sake breweries in the U.S. My research for this article included combing through hundreds of old newspapers, picking out tidbits of information that hadn't been previously collected into a single resource. It was a fascinating exploration, expanding my knowledge of this topic, and revealing intriguing facts which contradicted what many previously believed. This year, a Japanese man, who runs a packaging company, wrote an article for a Japanese Sake journal based upon my article and I wrote out it in My History of U.S. Sake Breweries Inspires A Journal Article. And fortunately, I got to meet the author last month when he visited Boston, and we drank plenty of Sake together.

Least Favorite Sake News: In Ugh! More Stinkin' Scores For Sake From Wine Advocate, I express my displeasure at the Wine Advocate for continuing to provide "scores" for Sake. I've been ranting about this issue since 2013 but it is more recently that the Wine Advocate has started providing Sake scores on a more regular basis. Their main effect seems to be raising prices and they don't seem to be sparking much discussion or interest on Sake. Even on the Robert Parker bulletin boards, Sake discussion is all but nonexistent. The scores aren't really helping anyone, and are probably hurting more, so they should be eliminated.

Favorite Beer: I dislike most beer, as I am very sensitive to the bitterness of hops and that taste turns me off. Every once in a while though, I find a beer that does appeal to me. This year, I was impressed with the The Flying Dog "Heat Series" Shishito Rice Ale. This beer is brewed with Shishito peppers, a generally sweet Asian pepper where about one in ten is spicy. I found this beer to be light, crisp and refreshing, lacking bitterness and with just a whisper of spicy heat, mainly on the finish. There are some subtle malty undertones and a couple hints reminding me of a Sake. It would be an excellent beverage on a hot, summer day.

Favorite Cider: From the Asturian region of Spain, the 1947 Sidra de Nueva Expresion is
is a Petillant Semi-Dry Cider, produced from a blend of 14 apple varieties, all from their own orchards, with a rough breakdown of about 75% sharp, 15% bitter-sharp and the rest bitter-sweet. Fermentation occurs in an open chestnut vat, with wild yeasts, and I was quite surprised that they also allow it to mature in the open vat for about 12 months! The vats are old, some being as much as a hundred years or more, and are quite large, about 15,000 liters. It possesses a strong, appealing apple aroma and on the palate, it presents as mostly dry and crisp, with strong apple flavors and only the slightest hint of sweetness. It also has a  mild effervescence, enough to be a nice palate cleanser and excellent for food pairings, and a lengthy pleasing finish.

Favorite Pear Cider: For the second year in a row, this Asturian pear cider, the Viuda de Angelón Sidra de Pera is the winner. The pear trees are wild, organic and over 70 years old. Once the pears are picked, they are first fermented in stainless steel, with wild yeasts, and then mature for about four months in chestnut vats. Then, they undergo a second fermentation in the tank. This is an impressive Perry, with a harmonious blend of earthiness with subtle pear flavor and a mild effervescence. It is dry and refreshing, with lots of depth. It would be excellent on its own or paired with food, especially something with umami.

Favorite Non-Alcoholic Cocktail: At Sumiao Hunan Kitchen, they have several cocktails, and I was impressed with their Sumiao Citrus, which is made with white grapefruit juice, lemon, simple syrup, blood orange puree, and orange garnish. This was an interesting concoction, not overly sweet, and was quite refreshing. The fruit flavors blended well together, presenting a tasty melange of flavors. If you aren't drinking something alcoholic with your meal, then this would be a good option.

Favorite Non-Alcoholic Drink: Switchel used to be popular in New England in the 17th century, and now seems to be making a bit of a comeback. At Russell Orchards in Ipswich, I bought their version of Switchel, which is made from with apple cider vinegar, apple cider, maple syrup, ginger and water, with the vinegar and cider made on their premises. It is unpasteurized so needs to be refrigerated. The Switchel possesses a distinctive ginger aroma and it is prominent on the palate too. It is dry with a prominent vinegar aspect, subtle apple notes, and a ginger backbone. It is refreshing and I see how it can be quite refreshing on a hot day. Plus, it makes for a great cocktail ingredient.

Favorite Canned Non-Alcoholic Drink: At Gre.co, a fast-casual Greek restaurant on Newbury Street in Boston, they have a few canned drinks including the Tuvunu Greek Mountain Tea, which is made from Sideritis, an indigenous perennial. The tea is flavored with brown cane sugar, wild blossom honey, and fresh squeezed lemon juice. It was delicious, with only a mild sweetness, and pleasing tea notes and an herbal backbone. It is refreshing and you could easily drink can after can without feeling bloated or overwhelmed by sugar as you can be with soda.

What were some of your favorite spirits and drink-related items this year?

Thursday, October 12, 2017

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I am back again with a new edition of Thursday Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting, upcoming food & drink events.
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1) Executive Chef Nick Dixon and the Lincoln Tavern & Restaurant team welcome colder weather with new seasonal menu items and the return of Thursday Night Ramen.

Fall menu highlights include:
WEEKDAY BRUNCH (Monday – Thursday, 10am-3pm)
--Pumpkin Pancakes with graham cracker crumble, cream cheese frosting, plump golden raisins, bourbon maple syrup
--Pastrami Hash with house smoked brisket, piquillo peppers, smashed Yukon potatoes, sautéed leeks, poached eggs, whole grain mustard hollandaise
--Smoked Salmon Benedict ciabatta bread, smashed avocado, house smoked pastrami salmon, lemon hollandaise, lemon dressed greens
--Pork Carnitas Burrito crispy smoked pork, salsa verde, tater tots, runny egg
DINNER
--French Onion Soup Meatballs pork and beef meatballs, Gruyere cheese, garlic croutons, French onion soup
--Salmon Quinoa Bowl with wood-fired Faroe Island Salmon, quinoa, fresh sage, roasted winter squash, red grapes, Vermont goat cheese, apple maple vinaigrette
--Cast Iron Seared Pork Chop sage and buttermilk brined Berkshire pork chop, seared Brussels sprouts, shallot confit, roasted baby carrots, apple bourbon jam, hard cider reduction.
--Kung Pao Brussels Sprouts with Szechuan peppercorns, shishito peppers, honey roasted peanuts, sweet chili sauce
--Shaved Apple Salad mixed greens, plump golden raisins, shaved Honeycrisp apples, Vermont goat cheese, honey mustard dressing
--Butternut Squash Pizza fontina, bacon, caramelized onions, pecorino Romano, rosemary oil
WEEKEND BRUNCH (Saturday & Sunday, 9am-3pm)
--Dark Chocolate Waffle peanut butter drizzle, hot fudge sauce, maple whipped cream, honey roasted peanuts
--Hot Smoked Pastrami Sandwich Gruyere cheese, sauerkraut, spicy mustard, griddled Iggy’s rye bread
--Thick Sliced French Toast cinnamon brioche, brown butter pastry cream, caramelized apples and cinnamon, Vermont maple pecan syrup, Applewood smoked bacon
--Apple Cinnamon Oatmeal old fashioned rolled oats, roasted honeycrisp apples, cinnamon, nutmeg, cream

The Lincoln team continues with Brunch Test Kitchen every Friday this fall, where you can find a rotating lineup of brunch items and boozy milkshakes available for one day only (Friday 10am – 2pm). Guests can also toast to fall with a variety of new fall cocktails from Beverage Manager Rob Macaffrey, including the Autumn Mule (vodka, apple cider, caramel, lime), Candy Apple (gin, apple liqueur, cranberries, ginger) and Maple Crisp (rum, maple, apple, lime).

Every Thursday, starting at 5pm, Ramen returns to the Lincoln menu, featuring Chef Dixon’s traditional Bacon Dashi broth, complete with rotating Asian-inspired snacks to accompany Lincoln’s signature Ramen ($15). Ramen is available on Thursday evenings only, now through February 2018.

2) Jack’s Coal Fired Pizza has opened its first location in Burlington with a menu of handcrafted pizzas, pastas and wings, brought to life within the restaurant’s coal fired and wood fired ovens, made in Italy. As the name suggests, the coal fired concept is carried throughout Jack’s, influencing everything from the cocktail program to the interior décor. Helmed by Executive Chef Steve Walsh, the all-new 6,000-square-foot eatery and bar is located in Burlington in the property formerly occupied by Papa Razzi.

Patrons can indulge in hand stretched 16” Coal Fired Pies, 12” Wood Fired Pies, and a selection of starters, pastas and green salads in addition to nearly 40 craft and local beers and an array of wine and specialty cocktails like the Coal Fired Peach Lemonade (Tito’s, white peach puree, charred lemonade, coal fired peaches), made using lemons and peaches singed in the coal fired oven. Menu choices crafted in the coal fired oven include the Coal Fired Wings (lemon herb-rubbed or buffalo), the Swine & Sprouts (tomato, roasted Brussels sprouts, pork belly, mozzarella, garlic, balsamic reduction), White Clam (béchamel sauce, mozzarella, garlic, oregano, bacon), and Picante (tomato, pepperoni, sausage, mozzarella, banana peppers).

Jack’s Wood Fired Pizzas are cooked using white oak wood, and include choices like the Margherita, Popeye (mozzarella, feta, spinach, roasted garlic, olives), and West Coast (mozzarella, fig jam, prosciutto, bleu cheese, peppadew, onion, arugula). Guests can end their Jack’s Coal Fired Pizza experience on a sweet note with the homemade Banaffee Pie (graham cracker, toffee, banana, and custard) or homemade Carrot Cake (walnuts, cream cheese frosting).

Jack’s Coal Fired Pizza is open from 11:00am – 1:00am daily. Their menu seems to be larger than the other coal fired pizza restaurants in the area. Plus, the addition of the wood fired oven is an intriguing extra.

3) On Wednesday, October 25, you can meet Jeffrey Roberts, author of both the Atlas of American Artisan Cheese and the newly released Salted & Cured, the history of charcuterie in America, at The Cheese Shop of Concord. You can meet Jeff at two different segments:

3:30pm–5:30pm: Chat with Jeff, purchase a signed copy of his books if you like, and enjoy some cheese & charcuterie nibbles paired with exquisite Spanish Cider, courtesy of Ciders of Spain. No reservation required – just stop on by!

6:30pm–8pm: A more formal and intimate presentation given by Jeffrey & The Cheese Shop of Concord’s Peter Lovis featuring a series of a half dozen cheese, charcuterie and Spanish cider pairings – hosted by The Cheese Shop & Ciders of Spain. Space is very limited - just 16 attendees. A $22.09 reservation fee is required, which will be given back to you as a $20 store credit to spend that evening on any of the featured items (the difference being the processing fee). Register soon as this rare event will quickly reach capacity. Buy your ticket here on Eventbrite.

The Pairing will include:
(A) Hubbardston Blue. Westfield Farm (Fanjul Natural)
Prosciutto Americano. La Quercia –
(B) Harbison. Jasper Hill Farm (Guzman Riestra)
Guanciale. Olli.
(C) Ashbrook. Spring Brook Farm (Angelon 1947)
Beef Bresaola. Larchmont –
(D1) West-West Blue. Parish Hill Creamery
(Sidra de Pera/Diamantes de Hielo)
(D2) Wild boar salami. Creminelli – (Riestra Natural)

4) On Wednesday, November 1, from 6:30pm-9:30pm, Post 390 is hosting a one-of-a-kind dinner, part of their "Farm to Post" series, featuring coffee and cacao beans from New England’s top local coffee roasters and chocolate makers. Executive Chef Nick Deutmeyer and the team at Post 390 welcome guests to satisfy their taste buds at a special four-course dinner featuring local coffee roasters and chocolatiers. This dinner includes a welcome reception and a four-course dinner with specially-paired beverages. Guests will be able to mingle with artisan roasters and chocolatiers who will answer questions throughout the dinner.

The menu is as follows:
RECEPTION
COCOA NIB LAVASH (Cashew butter, apple)
MINI BUTTERMILK BISCUITS (Brown sugar cured ham, whipped coffee butter)
BEEF & SCALLION MEATBALLS (Black coffee barbeque sauce)
FIRST COURSE
PUFFED BUCKWHEAT & COFFEE ROASTED ROOTS (Heirloom carrots, baby turnips & beets, sautéed kale, espresso vinaigrette)
SECOND COURSE
COFFEE & CROISSANT (Veal, caramelized onion & coffee bouillon, steamed milk, short rib & gruyere croissant)
ENTRÉE COURSE
GREEN COFFEE BEAN SMOKED DUCK BREAST (Cocoa parsnip puree, caramelized pear, brussels sprout leaves, coffee dusted confit & cherry croquette)
DESSERT
TAZA AFFOGATO SUNDAE (Coconut dulce de leche, cocoa nib brioche, espresso)

Cost: Tickets are $55 per person (inclusive of beer and appetizers).
Space is limited and reservations are required.  To purchase tickets, visit https://www.eventbrite.com/e/farm-to-post-local-roasters-dinner-tickets-38656906849

Wednesday, September 27, 2017

Switchel: A Colonial Drink From Russell Orchards

While perusing the shelves at Russell Orchards, after picking up some of their excellent cider donuts, I noticed some plastic containers, next to the cider, which were labeled "Switchel." I wasn't familiar with the term and the drink seemed to be a mix of vinegar, cider and ginger. I bought a couple bottles to try at home and was later fascinated when I did some research on Switchel, which is becoming popular once again.

Switchel may be known by a number of other terms, including ginger-water, haymaker's punch, switchy, switzel, and swizzle. It is commonly a drink of water, vinegar (or cider vinegar), ginger, and a sweetener, which was originally molasses but nowadays may use honey, sugar, brown sugar or maple syrup. Other ingredients were also sometimes added, dependent on the location, including lemon juice and oatmeal.

The exact origins of switchel are unknown, though some sources allege it originated in the Caribbean, yet there doesn't appear to be much supporting evidence in favor of that theory. The main ingredients, ginger and molasses, do come from the Caribbean, but from different parts of that region and generally didn't come together. However, once those ingredients were exported to Colonial America, it seems they finally were combined together. If anything, the basic concept of combining fruit juices, spices, and other ingredients, to make punches and other drinks might have originated in the Caribbean but switchel itself appears to be more an American invention.

It is thought switchel started becoming popular in New England during the 17th century. It spread throughout the country, eventually becoming a favorite of hot and thirsty farmers, including some during hay harvest time, leading to it becoming known as haymaker's punch. Switchel was mentioned by a number of popular writers, from Herman Melville to Laura Ingalls Wilder. One of the earliest written mentions of switchel is in a poem from 1789. It is also said that in early 19th century Massachusetts, students at Harvard University loved to drink switchel and rum, though temperance advocates thought switchel on its own was a good substitute for an alcoholic drink. Combining switchel with alcohol, especially rum, seemed to be popular in many places, and not just Harvard.

The Switchel from Russell Orchards costs $3.95 for a 12 ounce plastic bottle, and is made with apple cider vinegar, apple cider, maple syrup, ginger and water, with the vinegar and cider made on their premises. It is unpasteurized so needs to be refrigerated and does have a sell by date. There is a distinctive ginger aroma from the switchel and on the palate, it is dry with a prominent vinegar aspect, subtle apple notes, and a ginger backbone. It is refreshing and I see how it can be quite refreshing on a hot day. It would also work well as a cocktail ingredient, and I'll be trying that very soon.

Next time you visit Russell Orchards for their superb cider donuts, why not pick up some Switchel too.

Wednesday, May 17, 2017

Ciders of Spain: Viuda de Angelón & Guzman Riestra

"Really, it is the Asturian cider makers who are calling the attention of Americans to your magnificent region and sidra is serving as an excellent ambassador."
--James Asbel

Besides my love for the diverse wines of Spain, from briny Manzanilla Sherry to aged Rioja, from crisp Albarino to fruity Mencia, I also enjoy their Ciders, from Asturias (which are known as Sidra) and the Basque region (which are known as Sagardoa). Cider may even have originated in Spain a few thousand years ago. Spanish ciders present their own unique flavor profiles and it's great to see more of them entering the U.S. market.

Ciders of Spain tasting event, led by importer James Asbel, was recently held at Pemberton Farms in Cambridge, and two Sidra makers were in attendance, from Viuda de Angelón & Guzman Riestra. I've previously enjoyed Sidra from both of these producers but I wanted the opportunity to meet and speak with the Sidra makers. Please check out my two prior posts for more background and history on Ciders of Spain, James Asbel, Sidra and some specific reviews: Ciders of Spain: Asturian Cider (Part 1) and Ciders of Spain: Asturian Cider (Part 2).

Francisco Ordoñez Vigil, pictured above, is the main Sidra maker at Viuda de Angelón (the "widow of Angelon"), which was founded in 1947 by Alfredo Ordoñez Onís at the orchards of La Alameda. In 1978 the cidery was moved to La Teyera, Nava, home of the annual Asturian Cider Competition and the Museo de la Sidra de Asturias. It remains a family-owned and operated artisan cidery and they also operate a sidrería, a cider pub, in the center of Nava.

Francisco is a 3rd generation Sidra maker and acquired an oenology degree from the University of Valencia. Though he worked in the wine industry first, he eventually gravitated back to the family cidery. There isn't a school in Spain for cider making, so an oenology degree is the closest educational degree you can acquire. Francisco has been able to apply his winemaking knowledge, bringing more scientific analysis to the Sidra production. Francisco produces a wide range of Sidra, four of which are currently imported into the U.S. He stated that his biggest challenge in Sidra making is growing the apples.

The Sidra Brut Viuda de Angelón (about $16) is a Sparkling Off-Dry Cider made from 5 varieties of cider apples, though the exact proportions of each will vary some year to year. They have some of their own orchards, which are organic though not certified, and they purchase some apples from other local, organic orchards. Their orchards are quite steep so they must be do all hand harvesting, which is certainly laborious work. They also raise some livestock, including sheep and cows, which graze in the orchard.

Like all of their Sidras, the initial fermentation for the Brut occurs in an open tank and using wild yeasts. The cider will be cold shocked so some residual sugar remains within it, meaning they don't need to add additional sugar for the second fermentation, which occurs in a sealed tank. In addition, before that second fermentation, the cider is matured for about eight months in large chestnut barrels. It is cold shocked for a second time during the second fermentation so a little residual sugar, about 9 grams/liter, remains in the bottle. With a mild sweetness, this bubbly has rich apple flavors and would make a nice summer drink. There isn't much of a history of how well this Brut will age, but James believes it has a good aging potential.

The 1947 Sidra de Neuva Expresion (about $13) is a Petillant Semi-Dry Cider, produced from a blend of 14 apple varieties, all from their own orchards, with a rough breakdown of about 75% sharp, 15% bitter-sharp and the rest bitter-sweet. Fermentation occurs in an open chestnut vat, with wild yeasts, and I was quite surprised that they also allow it to mature in the open vat for about 12 months!  The vats are old, some being as much as a hundred years or more, and are quite large, about 15,000 liters. Some of the vats are stored underground while others are at ground level. The chestnut provides a touch of sweetness to the cider.

How can the cider survive for 12 months in an open vat? First, the cider actually forms a type of flor atop it, like occurs with Sherry, protecting the cider from oxygen and bacteria. In addition, as they use higher acidity apples, that is another element protecting the cider. The cider is unfiltered, unfined and doesn't undergo any cold shock. It possesses a strong, appealing apple aroma and on the palate, it presents as mostly dry and crisp, with only the slightest hint of sweetness, with a mild effervescence, enough to be a nice palate cleanser and excellent for food pairings. It has delicious apple flavors, with a lengthy pleasing finish, and was one of my Top Three Sidras of the previous tasting.

The Viuda de Angelón Sidra de Pera ($3.50/330ml) is a Sparkling Off-Dry Perry, made from several varieties of pears from their estate. Perry production might extend back to the ancient Romans and was popular in Asturias during the last couple hundred years though mostly it was made by families at home and there was little, if any, commercial production. The pear trees are wild, organic and over 70 years old. Once the pears are picked, they are first fermented in stainless steel, with wild yeasts, and then mature for about four months in chestnut vats. Then, they undergo a second fermentation in the tank.

This is an impressive Perry, with a harmonious blend of earthiness with subtle pear flavor and a mild effervescence. It is dry and refreshing, with lots of depth. It would be excellent on its own or paired with food, especially something with umami. Absolutely delicious, it was also one of my a Top Three Sidras of the previous tasting.

I had some concerns last week when I read a news article from La Sidra titled "The Spanish administration bans pear cider." The article states "So now this category, pear cider, turns to be illegal and prevents the sale of perry with its own name. In Asturies, as we said, pear cider is a traditional and historical product as apple cider, despite its production and consumption was decreaded lately. Only the cider mill Viuda de Angelón produced this product since 2011 and now it will have to stop its production and distributon of this beverage, while the shops and cider bars can still sell this."

Fortunately, I spoke with James Asbel who soothed my worries, as the La Sidra article apparently wasn't fully accurate. James stated that Spain had only banned the use of the term "sidra" in referring to a "perry." As such, it will have no impact on production and sales, and no impact on Viuda de Angelón's labeling in the U.S. Perry can certainly still be produced in Spain, just as long as you don't try to label it as a sidra. Francisco Ordoñez Vigil, of Viuda de Angelón, has indicated he might decide to change over to the use of perea, the traditional term for Perry.

Raul Riestra, pictured above, is the main Sidra maker at Guzman Riestra, which was founded back in 1906 by Robustiano Riestra and it eventually was passed on to his daughter, Etelvina Riestra. With her husband, Ricardo Riestra Hortal, they eventually implemented some modern advances. Today, the cidery is in the hands of Raul and Ruben Riestra, the great grandsons of the founder, and Raul, with a business degree, is the chief cider maker.

Raul does not have an oenology degree but has always worked at the family cidery so he has learned everything on the job. Riestra grows some of their own apples and also purchases some. About 40% of their apples are from the local area, 40% are from little further away, and about another 20% come from Normandy, France. The cidery has about 30 vats for their apples, including chestnut, stainless steel and fiberglass. When making Sidra, the same juice goes into 3-4 vats to maintain consistency and they don't fill the vats all the way, allowing room for expansion.

Like Angelón, they conduct open vat fermentations, with wild yeasts. After the October harvest, fermentation can take about six weeks, though during the colder months, fermentation takes longer, and can extend even as long as 9 months. This is not a problem, as it allows them to more evenly spread out their availability. Overall, they produce about 850,000 liters of Sidra annually. Their greatest challenge is trying to press so many apples in such a short time.

The Sidra Natural Riestra (about $9.50/700ml) is a dry, unfiltered Sidra and when you are pouring it into a glass, you hold the bottle high in the area, a practice known as escanciar, which helps to aerate the cider as well as make it fizzier. It possesses a very mild earthiness, with much more rich apple flavors and stronger tannins. It is dry with sour and bitter notes as well as good acidity. This too would be excellent with a variety of food pairings, including cheese. The U.S. imports about 50% of the total production of this Sidra.

The Guzman Riestra Sidra Brut Nature (about $16/750ml) is a sparkling dry Sidra made in the Methode Champenoise. They select 2-3 tanks specifically for this Brut, only the best of their Sidra. It is matured for about 4 months in the tank, is then filtered and fined, before receiving a dosage and undergoing a second fermentation in the bottle. It spends at least four months in the bottle, and usually longer, and is commonly released about five months after disgorgment. The U.S. imports about 30% of the total production of this Brut.

The Brut is clean and dry with moderate bubbles, a mild earthiness, a bright apple flavor, a hint of tropical fruit, and a pleasingly long finish. It has similar tannins to the other Riestra and this could stand up to stronger foods, like cured meats.

Asturian Sidra offers a compelling and more unique flavor profile, with a great sense of history and tradition. And the Sidras in this article, from Ciders of Spain, offer an excellent value as well. A number of local wine and liquor shops now stock these Sidras, and if they don't, you should ask them to carry them.

Tuesday, December 27, 2016

2016: Favorite Spirits, Cocktails & Drink-Related Items

What were some of my favorite spirits and drink-related items of the past year?

Let me continue the lists of my best recommendations and favorites of 2016. I have already posted my Favorite Wines, Favorite Restaurants and other related lists. This post will now concentrate on some of my Favorite Spirits and Drink-Related Items. This is certainly not a complete list but it is more a sampling of compelling and memorable matters I have experienced and posted about over the past year.

This is also a purely subjective list, based on my own preferences, and makes no claims about being the "best" of anything. But all of the items here have earned my strong recommendations and I hope you will enjoy them as well. This is the first year that this category has been given its own post because I have tasted and reviewed a far greater amount of spirits, cocktails and other drinks this year. For more spirits and drink related items, you can just search my blog posts for the past year.

Favorite Spirits & Cocktail Event: For the third time, Thirst Boston is my favorite event, an excellent four day event dedicated to the diversity of spirits, cocktails and other drinks. There are a myriad of interesting and informative seminars, tasting rooms, parties and much more. The event is well organized, and everything generally runs smoothly and punctually. I always find it educational and fun, with lots of great drinks available. And a number of the spirits and cocktails I enjoyed at Thirst Boston can be found as other Favorites on this list. I highly recommend you check out next year's Thirst Boston.

Favorite Bourbon Book: Though I haven't yet written a formal review of this book, Bourbon: The Rise, Fall & Rebirth of an American Whiskey, by Fred Minnick receives my hearty recommendation. It is a fascinating historical look at Bourbon, presenting plenty of information you probably didn't know about Bourbon. As a history buff, I love this type of book, and as I also love bourbon, then this book is a double win. Fred has an excellent writing style, offering many interesting anecdotes about Bourbon.

Favorite Single Malt Book: Recently published, The New Single Malt Whiskey, edited by Carlo Devito, is an encyclopedic tome of over 620 pages and is dedicated to single malt whiskey from all over the world. It contains articles written by over 40 writers, covering 197 distilleries from over 25 countries, and reviews more than 325 whiskies. It is an excellent reference tool to explore single malts and will likely intrigue you in tasting many which are new to you. To be transparent, I did contribute a few articles to this book but I have learned much from the other writers in this hefty volume.

Favorite Cocktail Supply Shop: Once again, The Boston Shaker, located near Davis Square in Somerville, wins this category. It offers everything you need to create cocktails, except for the alcohol, including plenty of spirit & cocktail books, a wide range of bitters, shakers, stirrers, glasses, and so much more. They also run cocktail classes, book signings and other fun and informative events. It is an excellent place to purchase gifts for the holiday season for your cocktail loving family and friends.

Favorite Highland Single Malt Scotch: The Oban 18 Year Old Single Malt is produced by a tiny distillery, located in the Coastal Highlands and next to the ocean. This Scotch iss amazing, with a complex and harmonious blend of flavors, including baked orange, bold spices, a hint of smoke, caramel, and much more. Each sip seems to bring a new flavor to your palate. The finish feels like it won't ever end and it is the type of Scotch you would slowly savor all evening. It seduces your palate and will addict you as soon as you taste it. Highly recommended.

Favorite Speyside Single Malt Scotch: The Cardhu 12 Year Old Single Malt is similar to a number of Speyside Scotches, which tend to be fruity in taste. This Scotch has a delightful fruity flavor, ripe plums and figs, with an aroma of sweet Sherry. There are also some intriguing spice notes and a very lengthy and pleasing finish. This Scotch should appeal to many people and would be an excellent introductory Scotch to hook people on this category.

Favorite Islands Single Malt Scotch: Talisker Distillery is the only distillery on the Isle of Skye and it is a huge distillery, selling half of their product to Johnny Walker. The Talisker 18 Year Old Single Malt is certainly impressive, with a pleasing smoky aroma and a touch of brininess. The palate possesses a moderate peaty aspect, an interesting nuttiness and an excellent blend of sweet and salty flavors. So complex, with a lengthy finish, this is a killer Scotch which will satisfy anyone seeking a fine, peaty whiskey. Pair it with chocolate or oysters.

Favorite Solera-Made Scotch Whiskey: The Black Adder Black Snake VAT 3 Venom 2 Single Malt uses a Solera system that was started about two years ago. They remove about 2/3 of the whiskey from a barrel and then add new whiskey to refill it. It is either finished in Oloroso Sherry or PX Sherry barrels though this particular whiskey was finished in Oloroso barrels, which it sat in for about a year. Each time they remove some whiskey from the barrels, they label it as Venom, so this whiskey was removed for the second time. It is bottled at 114 proof and is strong and powerful but with an elegance that balances it. The flavors are intriguing, a melange of white pepper, honey, vanilla, fennel, floral notes, and hints of aged Sherry.

Favorite Irish Whiskey: The Quiet Man 8-Year-Old Single Malt Irish Whiskey is a blend of new and partially-aged Irish whiskey which finishes its aging at the Quiet Man warehouse. The 8-Year Old possesses a more savory taste profile with a pleasing nose of spice, smoke and floral notes. On the palate, it has a hint of sweetness, tastes of caramel and vanilla. Those sweeter flavors though were balanced by a spicy backbone and a hint of smoke. It drinks very smooth and is an Irish whiskey to slowly savor and enjoy, and during the winter, it would be welcome drink on any chilly night.

Favorite Irish Cream: The company behind The Quiet Man also produces St. Brendan's Irish Cream, which is named after a sixth century monk. It is made from all natural ingredients, from cream made from the milk of grass-fed cows to their own Irish Whiskey. Bottled at 34 proof, it has a richer butterfat content than many of its competitors. I was impressed with its taste, finding it light, creamy and only mildly sweet, far less sweet than Bailey's Irish Cream. It was delicious, without any artificial taste, and would be the perfect drink to cap off a night. I could easily see this in a cocktail, or even as the basis for a tasty frozen shake.

Favorite Rye Whiskey: I've been a fan of the Ryes from Whiskey Pig but their new Whistle Pig 15 Year Old Straight Rye just blew me away. The base of this rye is the 10 Year Old except it sits in the barrel for another 4.5 years and then is finished for anther 6 months in barrels of Vermont White Oak with a #4 char. This is a massively impressive rye, with such a phenomenal, complex melange of aromas and flavors. There is plenty of spice, caramel, butterscotch, vanilla, citrus, and even a touch of smoke. Every sip seems to bring something new to your palate and you won't want to quite sipping until the bottle is empty. It is a liquid aphrodisiac, decadently delicious with a sensual mouthfeel. I can't recommend it highly enough.

Favorite Unique Whiskey Blend: High West Whiskey Campfire, blended in Utah, is unique blend of a straight Bourbon, a straight Rye, and a blended peated Scotch (though the specific proportions is secret). All the whiskies used in this blend are at least five years old. On the nose, it has a complex and alluring aroma, with hints of spice, light smoke, honey, vanilla, and floral notes. As I took a hearty sip, I was amazed at the intriguing and complex procession of flavors that seduced my palate, proceeding from a sweet and fruity start, leading through a spicy middle and ending with a mild smokiness. Sweet, spicy and smoky. It was fascinating that you could easily see the influence of each different type of whiskey, none being dominated by any other. The more you concentrated, the more flavors you discovered in this superb melange, from caramel to citrus, leather to baking spices. Overall, it is a silky & smooth whiskey, with a long and lingering finish.

Favorite Gin: I'm not usually a fan of gin, disliking the strong juniper flavor I find in many, but I have enjoyed some that I felt were more well-balanced. Caledonia Spirits produces what may be my utmost favorite gins, two exceptional barrel-aged gins, the Barr Hill Reserve Tom Cat Barrel-Aged Gins. Their original spends about 4-6 months in new American white oak barrels tastes more like a whiskey than a gin, pushing the juniper flavor to a minimal element. There are honey notes, enhanced by a spicy aspect and hints of vanilla and caramel. The floral elements are also more of an undertone, and the overall taste is complex and intriguing, delicious and satisfying. Their newest release has been aged for about six months in Vermont white oak. I found this Gin to be softer and more subtle than the other barrel-aged Gin. It is fragrant and elegant, with plenty of complexity and exciting flavors. There is still a whiskey element in this Gin, with a very subdued juniper taste, but it certainly is a more unique spirit in its totality. I would only drink this on its own as in a cocktail, you might lose some of the subtle flavors of this superb Gin.

Favorite Spanish-Style Rum: The Mount Gay XO-Extra Old Rum is generally a blend of rums aged from 8-15 years old. The XO is complex and intriguing, a rum to slowly sip and savor. It is silky smooth with delicious flavors of ripe pear, vanilla, toast, and subtle baking spices. It is an elegant spirit with a lengthy finish which will be sure to satisfy and tantalize. You won't be able to take just one sip as your palate will crave more. This is a rum you should drink on its own and which you probably don't want to use in a cocktail. And at only about $40, this is an excellent value too.

Runner-Up Favorite Spanish-Style Rum: Diplomatico Rum, based in Venezuela, produces a number of excellent value rums as well as a couple of compelling high-end rums. The 2002 Single Vintage (about $95) is made from rum was aged for 12 years in ex-bourbon and single malt casks and then placed into ex-Oloroso Sherry barrels for another year. This rum presents an intriguing aroma of caramel, vanilla and salted nuts. On the palate, the taste is complex and intriguing, a fine blend of caramel, vanilla, honey, almonds, baking spices, and dried fruit. There are hints of Oloroso in the rum, especially on the lengthy finish. The Ambassador (about $260) is aged in used white oak barrels for 12 years and then spends another 2 years in PX Sherry barrels. This rum will remind you in some respects of an aged Port, presenting an alluring nose of red fruits and exotic spice. On the palate, there are more dried red fruit flavors, baking spices, more exotic spice notes, a touch of leather and a hint of herbs. Complex and fascinating, this is also a rum that would benefit from slowly savoring it on its own.

Favorite Agricole Rhum: This French style rum is made from pure sugarcane juice rather than molasses. As such, it is a terroir driven spirit, which molasses-made rums are not. The Rhum Damoiseau Blanc, which is made in Guadeloupe, is 110 proof, unfiltered and has been distilled only once. It is savory and vegetal, with a strong earthy aspect. There are only hints of fruit and it also possesses a long, earthy finish. I very much enjoyed the more unique flavors of this Rhum though it certainly wouldn't appeal to everyone.

Favorite Local Rum: Privateer, located in Ipswich, produces some delicious, limited edition rums, including Navy Yard and Queen's Share. Navy Yard is a single barrel rum, aged for at least two years in new American oak, and bottled at 102 proof. It is bold and delicious, with a nice complexity of flavors, including caramel, butterscotch, orange, almonds, vanilla and subtle spice notes. This is definitely a sipping rum, which will deliver new flavors in every sip. The Queen's Share is also a single cask rum, aged for about three years in new American oak, and bottled at 114 proof in very limited quantities. It is a blend of their other three rums and is a lighter, more elegant style than the Navy Yard. However, it still possesses a similar complexity with lots of fruit, honey, caramel, vanilla and spice notes.

Runner-Up Favorite Local Rum: In Vermont, Smugglers' Notch Distillery is a father/son partnership which distills a number of products. Their Rum is a single-barrel amber rum bottled at 105 proof. It is aged for about 3 years in charred white oak and then finished for another year in 4-year old ex-whiskey barrels. I was impressed with the complex and delicious flavors in this rum, which had some similarities to a fine bourbon. And despite its high alcohol content, you wouldn't notice it in this smooth and well balanced rum. Such tasty flavors of caramel, vanilla, and baking spices with a lengthy finish.

Favorite Tequila: Though the bottle has glow-in-the-dark lettering and symbols, the Suerte Extra Añejo Tequila isn't a gimmicky spirit. Many traditional methods, such as the tacoma, are used to produce this tequila. This is a single barrel tequila, made from 100% Blue Weber Agave, and aged in charred American White Oak whiskey barrels for 5 years. The tequila is a deep golden color with an enticing nose of roasted agave, vanilla, and citrus notes, On the palate, it presents a complex melange of flavors, including caramel, vanilla, orange, baking spices and roasted agave. It is smooth and delicious, with a mild bitterness on the finish, helping to balance the mild sweetness of the tequila. This is a tequila to slowly sip, savoring each intriguing taste, and it drinks so well you could sip it all night.

Favorite Mezcal: I delved a quite bit into Mezcal this year, and it is certainly a worthy endeavor. Check out my Mezcal Rant, 400 Rabbits Say "Drink More Mezcal. Tequila seems to get most of the attention but Mezcal deserves much more attention. Trying to select a single Mezcal as my favorite was a difficult task but I finally settled on one, the Mezcal Vago Tepazate.  The Tepazate agave, also known as Dub-Cual, is a wild variety which grows quite large and can take as long as 25 years to mature. This mezcal has an impressive and complex taste, with lots of smoky and earthy elements, plenty of herbal notes and hints of citrus and stone fruit. I could have sat there for hours sipping this mezcal, extracting subtle hints of other flavors as well. I have to mention that all of the Mezcals from Mezcal Vago, such as their Espadin, Elote, and Mexicano, are delicious and worthy of your tasting.

Runner-Up Favorite Mezcal: The Del Maguey Papalote is produce in the region of Puebla and only recently was allowed within Mezcal DO. Papalote is the Puebla name for the Tobala agave and Del Maguey wants to use the regional name out of respect for the region and family producing the Mezcal. This Mezcal is made in a traditional way, roasting piñas in a horno, fermenting in an open air vat, and distilled for about 35 hours in a copper pot still. This Mezcal is complex and intriguing possessing more of a floral aspect and fruit flavors of pear and apple. There is only a mild smokiness, and a very lengthy finish. This was an elegant Mezcal, another one which you will want to slowly savor with good friends.

Favorite Mezcal Bars: Everyone knows about the local Tequila bars, but many people don't know where they can find excellent Mezcals lists. Thus, I created a list of Mezcal Bars in the Boston Area, defined as spots with 20+ Mezcals on their drinks menu. The list includes Tres Gatos in Jamaica PlainThe Painted Burro in SomervilleLone Star Taco Bar in Allston CambridgeOle Mexican Grill in Cambridge, and Ameluto Mexican Table in Waltham. Rosa Mexicano, in Boston, needs to be added to this list after their updated their drinks program, adding more Mezcals. If you want to explore Mezcal, and you should do so, then check out these bars.

Favorite Brandy: The Christian Brothers Sacred Bond Bottled-In-Bond Brandy, produced in California, has been produced in a single distillation season, by one distiller, at one distillery. In addition, it has been aged for 4 years in American white oak bourbon barrels, in a federally bonded warehouse, and bottled at 100 proof. I was very pleased with this brandy's smooth, flavorful taste. It is more full bodied, with delicious and bright flavors of red fruits and ripe plum, with mild spice notes and a vanilla backbone. There was even a hint of chocolate on the finish. Despite it being 100 proof, the alcohol was well integrated and there was only a mild heat at the finish, not what you might expect at all. With its full flavors and complexity, this would enhance any cocktail.

Favorite Local Sake: Dovetail Brewery opened in Waltham this year, making small batch Sakes, including the Nakahama Junmai and Omori Nigori. They use Yamada Nishiki rice, grown in Arkansas, which is considered the King of Sake Rice. These two Sakes are also Namazake, unpasteurized Sake. The Nakahama Junmai has a touch of sweetness and presents a smooth and fruity taste, some melon and pear. The Omori Nigori is a bit more full-bodied and sweeter than the Junmai, though it is far less sweet than many other Nigoris you will find. There is lots of fruit, a bit more tropical, flavors in the taste. Dovetail is available in numerous local stores and restaurants so seek it out.

Favorite Greek Spirits: I've previously discussed the compelling wine list at Committee but they also offer an intriguing range of Greek spirits, including ouzo, tsipouro/tsikoudia, and mastiha. The spirits are offered in various tasting sizes as well as tasting flights. The range of their Greek spirits presents plenty of diversity and most are designed to be either aperitifs or paired with food. For a long time, it is almost impossible to find these spirits at local restaurants but that is changing with the influx of new Greek restaurants. However, Committee is a great spot to learn all about these fascination spirits. Take and chance and expand your palate.

Favorite New Spirit: This year, I immersed myself in learning about Baijiu, the most popular spirit in the world! Yes, in there world as so many Chinese drink it in their native country. It is a fascinating spirit, produced in a unique process and I wrote eight articles about it this year. To start, check out Baijiu: The Durian Fruit Of The Spirits World (Part 1), which has links to the other articles. Baijiu is just starting to catch on with the non-Asian market and you will hear more about it in the coming years. Less than 10 Baijiu brands are currently available in the Boston area but many of them are good choices, and you will find a number of restaurants making Baijiu cocktails. Learn more about Baijiu and maybe you'll find a new favorite spirit too.

Favorite Baijiu: The Shui Jing Fang Wellbay Baijiu is produced at the oldest verifiable distillery in China, having been founded in the Sichuan province in 1408. This Strong Aroma Baijiu is made from a blend of 36% sorghum, and 64% other grains, including rice, glutinous rice, wheat and corn, and has a 51% ABV. The palate on this Baijiu presented an intriguing melange of flavors, including tropical fruits like pineapple and banana, with hints of licorice and some earthy notes. It was smooth and well balanced, with a lingering finish, ending with a slightly bitter note. With its earthy element, this wouldn't be the best Baijiu to introduce to a newcomer, but it also isn't overly earthy and I enjoyed it very much.

Favorite Sherry Bar: Taberna de Haro wins this category hands-down as there is no other local restaurant which comes close. With over 60 Sherries, including some rarer bottlings, Chef/Owner Deborah Hansen has compiled an amazing Sherry list, offering a good number by the glass. The Sherries pair very well with her Spanish cuisine and I could easily sit at the bar all night sampling different Sherries, from a bone dry Fino to a sublime aged Palo Cortado. If you are ever in the area, you must stop here and try some Sherry.

Favorite Restaurant Cocktails: Here is a short list of five of the best cocktails I enjoyed this past year.
   Chicha Sour: At Tico, they created several new cocktails for the Nikkei menu and the Chicha Sour is their a take on the classic Pisco Sour. It is made with Barsol Pisco, Chicha (a corn based beverage), and fresh lime. It is a mild drink of subtle flavors, a little sour and sweet (likely from the corn) with a soft flavor of Pisco. It goes down easily and you could drink several of these in the course of an evening.
    Bloody Marietta: At Committee, their variation on the Bloody Mary is the Bloody Marietta, made with vodka, olive tapenade, EVOO, rigani, basil, Tabasco, and a spicy feta stuffed olive. It was a savory and delicious variation, with intriguing olive notes, a mild spiciness and seemed lighter than other such cocktails. It went down very easy and makes you crave another.
     The New Frontier: At Wu Er Barbecue, the New Frontier ($11) is made with Hong Kong Baijiu, Tequila, Garam Masala, Lime Juice, Bell Pepper & Thai Chili. It is absolutely delicious, one of the better cocktails I've enjoyed as of late. The Baijiu takes a prominent role and is definitely evident in the drink, which is only mildly hot but with an intriguing spicy aspect. This cocktail pairs very well with their cuisine, including the five-spice & garlic chicken.
    We Can't Elope: Also at Committee, the We Can't Elope is made with Soul Cachaça, cucumber-cantaloupe syrup, and fresh lime juice. Bright and refreshing, you could taste the Cachaça, which was enhanced by the fruit flavors. It is a perfect summer cocktail.
    Roffignac: At A&B Burgers, the Roffignac, which was created for a Cajun dinner, is made with Courvoisier VS Cognac, Strawberry Cardamom Shrub, and Soda. It is a classic New Orleans cocktail, but seems to receive far less attention that many other cocktails from that city. It is mildly sweet with a little tartness, plenty of red fruit flavor and mild bubbles. This is an excellent and refreshing summer cocktail and is worthy of much more attention in the local cocktail scene.

Favorite Frozen Cocktail: At the Battle of the Burger, Chef Ming Tsai created a Dark & Stormy Granita, using Mount Gay Rum. It was a refreshing and delicious "slushy" and I wish I could have savored a large glass instead of the tiny paper cups it was served in. I like the Dark & Stormy cocktail, and its blend of ginger beer and rum, and this granita presented that blend in a frozen delight. I'm going to have to make these at home next summer.

Favorite Warm/Hot CocktailCommittee wins another category with their Greek Rakemelo. This drink, which extends back to the 12th century, is commonly a blend of Tsipouro/Tsikoudia with honey, aromatic herbs and spices. At Committee, they create their Rakomelo with Tsikoudia, honey, clove and cinnamon and will serve it warm during the winter and cold in the summer. I tasted the warm version and it reminded me of hot, spiced apple cider without the apples. It was easy drinking, more savory and only minimally sweet, with plenty of flavors of fall spices. The alcohol was well hidden within the drink so you could easily finish one of the carafes without realizing how much alcohol you might have consumed. With the cold winter revving up, hot Rakemlo is going to be the perfect solution.

Favorite Cocktail Series: This year, I concentrated on one of my favorite cocktails, the Manhattan, writing a three-part series, including Then & Now (Part 1), Creating Your Own (Part 2), and Drink Up (Part 3). I delved into its history, how to create your own Manhattan at home, and provided some of my favorite Manhattans at local restaurants and bars. Though it may seem like a simple cocktail, it actually possesses much more complexity and its taste profile can vary dependent on how it is prepared. It is an excellent winter drink, though I enjoy it during the summer as well.

Favorite Beer: I dislike most beer, as I am very sensitive to the bitterness of hops and that taste turns me off. Every once in a while though, I find a beer that does appeal to me. This year, I was impressed with the Night Shift Harborside, is a Gose-style ale that was brewed with coriander and Island Creek Oysters. The Harbourside is a traditional Gose in many ways, being a top-fermented wheat beer and a 3.6% ABV. However, instead of adding sea salt or salted water, they produced the batch with the addition of about 350 live oysters to the wort a few minutes before the end of the boil. I found this beer to be crisp and refreshing with a bright lemon taste, mild coriander spice, and a strong briny element which I very much enjoyed. It made for an excellent summer drink, sour and salty, and lacked the bitterness I find in many there beers. Even if you think you don't like beer, you should taste the Harborside as it may change your mind.

Favorite Local Hard Cider: I've tasted plenty of hard cider this year so it was tough to decide on my favorites. The overall quality of local cider keeps improving and producers have been experimenting, making some intriguing variations. In the basic category, I'll give it to the Whetstone Ciderworks Orchard Queen, located in Vermont, which is made from a blend of apples including Lamb Abbey Permian, Orleans Reinette, Co'x Orange Pippin and Kingston Black. This is dry and crisp, with a strong tart apple flavor and mild citrus, but it also possesses an earthy element, a complex and intriguing aspect that appealed to me. I would pair this with other umami dishes, from sushi with soy sauce to mushroom risotto.

Favorite Local Flavored-Hard Cider: Another Vermont cidery, Citizen Cider produces over 10 different types of cider, a diverse portfolio of intriguing ciders. The Citizen Plum Intended is intriguing as it is made with Sake yeast, as well as co-fermented with macerated plums, from a local Vermont orchard. It is delicious, only mildly sweet, and has a subtle plum flavor overlying the crisp, apple flavors. This would be a nice food cider, maybe pairing well with some Asian cuisine.
 
Favorite Local Barrel-Aged Hard Cider: And from still another Vermont cidery, the Shacksbury WhistlePig Barrel-Aged Cider is a blend of about 90% bittersweet apples and 10% grocery apples, including McIntosh, Empire, Cortland, Dabinett, Somerset Redstreak, Browns, Michelin, and Ellis Bitters. With a 6.9% ABV and 1% residual sugar, this cider saw a slow, partial native yeast fermentation. Then it was aged in Whistlepig barrels, which were previously Sauternes barrels, for about six months. I found it to be more full-bodied and smooth, with a complex melange of flavors, including caramel, honey, vanilla, mild spices and some fruity notes, mostly apple but with some citrus and pear as well. It has only a small touch of sweetness and mild effervescence. A fascinating cider, I think this would be great with cheese.

Favorite Local Hard Cider Rosé: And from still another Vermont cidery (are you sensing a theme here?), the Eden Imperial Rosé is produced from heirloom apples, red currants, and a touch of ice cider. At 11% ABV, it is off-dry, with a mild effervescence, and is fresh and crisp with delicious apple and currant flavors, blending together well. It is tasty on its own, though would pair well with food too, and this would be great on your holiday table at Thanksgiving.

Favorite Local Unique-Hard Cider Product: Eden Speciality Ciders also produced two fascinating cider products, essentially an "Apple Vermouth" and an "Apple Amaro." The Eden Orleans Herbal Aperitif, similar in some respects to a Vermouth, is made with Vermont apples and then infused with organic herbs, with Basil and Hyssop being the primary herbs. On the nose, the cider presents an alluring aroma of herbs with apple hints and on the palate it is savory and interesting, blending apple flavors with floral notes, herbal accents and a touch of honey.  With a lengthy, satisfying finish, this is an intriguing and compelling cider, a unique blend which has lots of potential. The Eden Orleans Bitter Aperitif, similar in some respects to an Amaro, is a cider made with red currant, dandelion, angelica, and gentian. It possesses a complex and fascinating taste, with a potent bitterness, enhanced by more subtle hints of red fruit and apple. It too should be an excellent ingredient for a variety of cocktails. These are both unique, delicious, complex and versatile.

Favorite Apple Ice Cider: The Windfall Orchard, located in Vermont, is a small farm and produces the tasty Windfall Ice Cider, a blend of 30 varieties of apples, including 50% heirloom and 50% traditional cider apples. Some of the traditional cider apples include Roxbury Russet and Esopus Spitenburg. It has a wild fermentation as well as a secondary fermentation, with some ice cider as a dosage. It ends up with a 9% ABV and 15% residual sugar, and tastes mostly dry with good acidity. It has a prominent and complex apple flavor with savory notes. There are also notes of honey, dried fruit and almost ripe pear. An excellent dessert wine.

Favorite Spanish Cider: From the Asturian region of Spain, the Fanjul Sidra Natural is a traditional, unfiltered sidra made from a blend of Asturian apples, such as Clara, Blanquina, Raxo, De la Riega, Xuanina, Perico, Verdialona, Regona and Durona de Tresali. One of its only non-traditional matters is that the sidra is fermented in oak rather than traditional chestnut. This is a dry cider, with a strong earthiness, intriguing apple flavors, some nutty accents and some tartness on the finish. Such a delicious and compelling cider, and very different from most American-made ciders. I love its strong umami element, seeing some similarity to Kimono/Yamahai Sake.

Runner-Up Favorite Spanish Cider: Another Asturian cider, the 1947 Sidra de Nueva Expresion is a petillant semi-dry cider made in a more modern style. It is a filtered sidra, made from estate apples, and possesses a strong, appealing apple aroma. On the palate, it presents as mostly dry, with only the slightest hint of sweetness, with a mild effervescent, enough to be a nice palate cleanser. It has delicious apple flavors with a lengthy pleasing finish.

Favorite Pear Cider: Also from the Asturian region, the Viuda de Angelon Sidra De Pera is a sparkling off-dry pear cider, a perry. Using estate grown pears, this is an impressive and delicious cider, with a harmonious blend of earthiness with subtle pear flavor and a mild effervescence. It is dry and refreshing, with more depth than most perry ciders I have tasted before.

Favorite Fermented Maple Syrup: Produced by Fernleigh Cellars in Vermont, the the Maple Reserve Special Dark is is a unique fermented maple syrup and actually reminded me of a Sherry. It is well balanced and fascinating, delicious and complex. It reminded me of a sweet Oloroso Sherry with a sweet & salty taste, with nutty notes and even some minerality. The pleasing finish lingered for a very long time and I was mesmerized by the flavors in this wine, amazed that maple syrup could create something this good.

Favorite Non-Alcoholic Drink: At Tasting Counter, they offer a palate cleanser, the Schisandra Berry Tea, which is compelling made from an Asian berry sometimes called the five-flavor berry. The cold brewed tea is sweet and salty, sour and bitter. It is refreshing and delicious, a nice palate cleanser though it would probably pair well with various dishes too. I really want to make a Sake cocktail with this tea.

Runner-Up Favorite Non-Alcoholic Drink: At Asta restaurant, I also had an interesting palate cleansers, the Sassafras Float, made with Fennel Sorbet. This bubbly drink had hints of root beer but was more dry than sweet, with clean flavors that were amplified by the compelling fennel sorbet. Tasty and compelling, it is a fine palate cleanser though it too could pair well with various foods.

What were some of your favorite spirits and drink-related items this year?