SENA19: Increasing America's Seafood Consumption

For a myriad of reasons, Americans should consume more seafood but getting them to do so isn't easy. As I wrote about last December, there was some good news as Americans consumed more seafood in 2017 than the previous year, an increase of 1.1 pounds per capita to 16 pounds. However, that is still 10 pounds less than the recommended annual amount of 26 pounds. The increase in 2017 was a positive step, but it must continue. For comparison, in 2018, it was predicted that Americans would eat an annual average of 222 pounds of red meat and poultry. That is illustrative of how little seafood Americans actually eat.

At the Seafood Expo North America (SENA), I attended a conference, Increasing America's Per Capita Seafood Consumption 25% By 2023. The synopsis of the panel states: "Widespread acceptance of seafood continues to elude the industry. While consumers know many ocean-fisheries are badly depleted, with scarcities creating prices only the wealthy can afford, they’re also told that farmed fish, once considered the solution, is deeply flawed, and characterized by widespread disregard for the environment and reckless use of antibiotics. Frozen seafood isn’t considered a high-quality option either, as consumers continue to be told that nothing beats fresh. The truth about farmed and frozen seafood is a different story, a story whose widespread dissemination would get seafood moving forward."

The panel of speakers included Phil Walsh, Director of Sales - Australis Aquaculture; Steven Hedlund, Communications Manager - Global Aquaculture Alliance; Eric Buckner, Sr. Director, Seafood - Sysco Corporation; Richard Castle, Director of Seafood - Giant Eagle Inc; and Josh Goldman, CEO - Australis Barramundi.

The main topic centered on two misguided and negative consumer beliefs, concerning farmed seafood and frozen seafood. The public is bombarded with negative media stories concerning seafood, in newspapers, magazines, television, the Internet, and more. As I've mentioned before, there are about 4 times as many negative articles about seafood than positive ones. These negative views are easily remembered, playing upon the fears of the public.

In addition, there are other reasons why consumers don't eat enough seafood. Many feel it is too expensive, many feel it is too difficult to cook, and for others, it isn't part of their traditional diet. If people grow up in the middle of the country, their access to fresh seafood may be limited and thus they aren't used to quality seafood.

What many consumers need to understand that the seafood industry has been constantly trying to improve its practices, and some negative issues that might have been relevant in the past are no longer a problem. Or at least, they are not a problem for a number of fisheries, which may even be certified, indicative of their quality and sustainability.

As to frozen seafood specifically, consumers often have negative views, that it is dry, has pin bones, is more bread than fish, is low quality, and has off flavors. However, frozen seafood has seen plenty of quality improvements over the years. Frozen seafood is also looked on very positively in other places around the world. For example, it is more commonly referred to as "chilled" seafood while in Japan, they primarily eat frozen seafood.

Not all frozen seafood is the same, much dependent on the temperature you freeze it at, as colder temperatures do less damage to the cellular walls. Even the simple fish stick has vastly improved in quality over the years. There are also numerous benefits to frozen seafood, such as the of low cost of transport, traceability, consistent quality, consumer friendly, and it can be easy and quick to prepare at home.

As for aquaculture, it too gets a bad reputation, despite many technological advances in recent years. As many experts will tell you, you shouldn't think of the dichotomy of fresh vs frozen, but instead of high quality vs low quality. Not all aquaculture is the same. Just think that much of the shellfish you eat, from oysters to mussels, are farmed. In a Washington Post article, from September 24, 2013, they did a blind taste test of wild vs farmed salmon, and farmed and frozen salmon prevailed as the winners. As was stated, "Aquaculture is the future of responsible food production" though some prefer to use the term "cultivated" rather than farmed.

How do you combat all these negative media portrayals? "It will take collaboration, cooperation and consistency." First, compelling educational content to combat negative articles, which often have little, if any, scientific basis. There was also a discussion of connecting with the media, such as designing aquaculture facilities to offer media tours and being a resource for local media. It was also mentioned that the industry should create transparency videos and virtual farm tours.

Though it wasn't discussed, I think the seafood industry also needs to be more supportive of positive media articles about seafood. They need to share those articles on social media, post links on their websites, and better identify their allies in the media. Positive seafood articles can be too easily lost unless they are promoted well, so they can be used to combat the negative articles. There is plenty of "fake news" about seafood out there and we need to educate people about the truth. Both farmed and frozen seafood should not be avoided per se as there is much of quality out there, which is also sustainable and traceable.

Consumers, educate yourselves about seafood and learn the positive attributes of all types of seafood.

Baijiu: Food Pairings (Part 5)

Can you pair food with Baijiu?

That is a fascinating question and a potential route to get Americans to taste Baijiu. I've received a couple different opinions on the traditional role of Baijiu and food. The first opinion is that Baijiu is more for a social bond that for any specific pairings with food. In addition, as the usual Chinese meal entails lots of different plates with a wide variety of flavors, textures and types, pairing would be difficult. As such, the food is considered secondary to the Baijiu.

The other opinion, offered by Derek Sandhaus, though is that Baijiu is intended to complement the food, and that the food thus takes the primary role over the Baijiu. Though Chinese meals tend to be served family style, with lots of different dishes, each region tends to create an array of dishes that share a cuisine type so they are not as disparate as you might think. The Baijiu produced in each region tends to match the style of that region's cuisine, similar to how wine tends to match the cuisine of the region where it is created. The Baijiu is not intended to pair with any specific dish, as we do with wine pairings, but rather it is intended to pair more generally with a specific regional cuisine.

For example, Sichuan cuisine tends to be very spicy and pairs well with the Strong Aroma Baijiu produced in that region. That style of Baijiu tend to be fruity and assertive, helping to cut through the spiciness. On the other hand,  Kweichow cuisine, which is more spicy and sour, pairs well with Sauce Aroma Baijiu, which is produced in that region. That style of Baijiu tends to have stronger fermented aromas and more umami, complementing the cuisine. Thus, Derek suggests pairing Baijiu with the regional cuisine of where it is produced. Manny from Private Cask Imports also states that spicy and salty foods from northern and southwest China pair best with Baijiu.

What about pairing Baijiu with non-Chinese cuisine?

This appears to be an area ripe for experimentation as not as much study has been done yet concerning such pairings. Derek recommends pairing Baijiu with strong flavored foods, such as spicy foods, cause of the Baijiu's strong flavors. For example, he suggested trying Buffalo Wings or barbecue food which has a spicy sauce or rub. Manny also suggests pairing Baijiu with food that tends to be on the heavier side, like meats, noting that Baijiu cuts through fat and heavy sauces really well.

I think that some of the newer, lighter style Baijiu that is being produced, such as HKB, can be paired with lighter dishes, from seafood to chicken. The fruity flavors in many of these Baijiu would help to enhance some of the flavors of such dishes. Oysters and HKB? I think that might work and I look forward to trying that pairing. Even something as light as a salad might work with HKB, especially if the salad has some bright citrus elements. I'd encourage you to try a light Baijiu like HKB with a wide range of dishes and find what you think works well.

With the stronger flavored Baijiu, you need to work a little harder with food pairings and the advice of Derek and Manny make sense. In addition, I am intrigued about the umami potential of Baijiu as it definitely seems to possess, based on what I've tasted, a strong sense of umami. I've also heard from others who also believe it often has an umami element to its taste.   

However, this seems to be another issue largely neglected and it is near impossible to find any sources online that discuss the topic. The fermentation process, especially due to its length, of Baijiu is conducive to the creation of a high amount of glutamic acid, which is an important source of umami. In this regard, it is similar to Kimoto/Yamahai Sake, which has high levels of glutamic acid, partially due to its lengthier fermentation period. With its high umami, Baijiu would possess much of the food pairing versatility as Sake.

However, based on question I asked of a few chemists/scientists, the act of distillation would seem to omit those glutamic acids from the final spirit. Glutamic acid isn't volatile and seems to have a higher boiling point than alcohol so it wouldn't transfer to the resultant spirit. Could the process of aging though provide umami to the Baijiu? Does sitting in terra-cotta jars for a few years result in changes to the spirit, enhancing its sources of umami? Why do these stronger Baijiu tend to have a powerful umami element? I hope to delve deeper into this subject in the future and if anyone knows more about this issue, please contact me.

Hopefully, after my five-part series, you now understand the basics of Baijiu and are encouraged to give it a try. It is a fascinating spirit, with a more unique production process, and worthy of exploration. Start out with the lighter, lower alcohol versions, and maybe try some cocktails, and work your way up to the funkier types. I shall continue my own explorations and will post more about my experiences very soon. For example, later this week I will be writing about an American-made Baijiu, produced in Portland, Oregon. Ganbai!

Do you still have any questions about Baijiu?

Baijiu: Cocktails, Boston & World Baijiu Day (Part 4)

How can we convince more Americans to try Baijiu?

One of the best ways to persuade more Americans to try Baijiu might be to ease them into the spirit through cocktails. Consumers have embraced other niche beverages, such as Sherry, Mezcal, and Sake, through cocktails. Bartenders across the country, who have been intrigued by Baijiu, are starting to experiment with Baijiu cocktails so you can find more and more such cocktails on your local bar menus. It is becoming a hot new ingredient, an intriguing new spirit which with bartenders can concoct their own wondrous creations.

Using a Baijiu like Hong Kong Baijiu (HKB) in a cocktail is relatively easy due to its lighter flavors and lower alcohol. For example, you can use it as a simple substitute for other white spirits, from vodka to rum, in a classic cocktail. You could create a Baijiu Margarita, a Baijiu Daiquiri, or a Baijiu Bloody Mary. You can also create your own new Baijiu cocktail to highlight the fruity flavors of the HKB. It is more of a challenge to create cocktails using stronger-flavored Baijiu, those with more funkier aromas and tastes.

For those stronger Baijiu, you generally need to pair it with equally powerful spirits and liqueurs, from Amaro to Mezcal. Citrus and tropical fruit flavors also seem to pair well with stronger Baijiu. The main idea is to find a way to reduce the earthier, funky flavors while enhancing the other flavors within the Baijiu. However, you will find a small number of consumers who want to embrace the earthiness, who don't want the bartender to hide or lessen those flavors. With such a customer, a bartender can let his imagination run wild. At home, if you are starting out with Baijiu cocktails, I recommend you pick up a bottle of HKB as a start.

In the Boston area, if you are willing to explore Baijiu, where can you find it?

There are currently about 30-40 Baijiu brands available in the U.S. but you'll only find a small number available for retail in the Boston area. The primary local distributor for Baijiu is Burke Distributing Corp. which has about 7 Baijiu in their portfolio, including Hong Kong Baijiu, Luzhou Laojiao Zisha, Shui Jing Fang, Wu Liang Ye and Kweichow Moutai. Of those five, only the Hong Kong is available as a 750ml, the rest available only in 375ml.

As an example, you can find the Kweichow Moutai ($145.99/375ml) and Hong Kong Baijiu ($48.99/750ml) at Redstone Liquors in Stoneham. You should also be able to find Baijiu at stores including Whole Foods Market in the South End, The Wild Duck Wine & Spirits in Chinatown, Burlington Wine & Spirits, Truong Than Market in Chinatown, Morrissey Boulevard Wines and Liquors, Blanchard's Liquors, Liquor World, Wine Gallery, Macy's Wines & Spirits, and Ball Square Wine & Spirits. Any liquor store that deals with Burke Distributing will be able to order Baijiu for you even if your store doesn't usually carry it.

You won't find many local restaurants carrying Baijiu though Hong Kong Baijiu (HKB) can be found at a number of places, including potentially Audubon Circle Restaurant, Banyan Bar & Refuge, China Pearl, Fairsted Kitchen, Parsnip, Drink, Wu Er Barbecue, Red Lantern, and Blue Dragon. Though you could order HKB on its own, you are most likely to see it at these places in cocktails. Two spots though, Red Lantern and Wu Er Barbecue, are truly passionate about Baijiu, offering a wider selection.

At Red Lantern, they carry Strong Aroma Style Baijiu including Hong Kong Baiju ($10), Luzhou Laojiao Zisha Daqu ($9), Mianzhu Daqu ($9), Shui Jing Fang Wallaby ($20), Wu Liang Ye ($42) and one Sauce Aroma Style, the Kweichow Moutai ($40). These are also available in a Tasting Flight of 3 brands (1/2oz pours) for $33. In addition, Brother Cleve has created a special Baijiu cocktail for them, the Peking Mule ($12), which is made from Mianzhu Daqu, Plum Shrub, Black Walnut & Ginger Beer.

At Wu Er Barbecue in Brookline, they carry Hong Kong Baiju, Luzhou Laojiao Zisha, Jian Nan Chun, Shui Jing Fang Wellbay, Wu Liang Ye and Kweichow Moutai. They are available as a Shot, a 2oz Pour, or by the Bottle. Shots range from $4-$16 and 2oz Pours range from $11-$55. In addition, they offer HKB in two cocktails, The New Frontier ($11) and Blue & White Porcelain ($11). The New Frontier is made with HKB, Tequila, Garam Masala, Lime Juice, Bell Pepper & Thai Chili while the Blue & White Porcelain is made with HKB, White Rum, Lime, Coconut Cream, Curacao & Sesame.

I recently had the opportunity to taste The New Frontier cocktail during a media visit to Wu Er Barbecue. It was absolutely delicious and one of the better cocktails I've enjoyed as of late. The Baijiu took a prominent role and was definitely evident in the drink, which also was only mildly hot but with an intriguing spicy aspect. This cocktail paired very well with the cuisine, including the five-spice & garlic chicken. This is a cocktail that would appeal to many people and would be an excellent gateway to the wonders of Baijiu. I wanted to try the Blue & White Porcelain but they were out of coconut cream.

Outside Boston, probably the best example of an American bar which is showcasing the versatility of Baijiu is Lumos, the first Baijiu bar in the country, which is located in New York City. With Chinese backers, Orson Salicetti, the former head bartender at Apothéke in Chinatown, has created a temple to Baijiu, a place to find a wide variety of Baijiu, about 40-50 brands. If you peruse the menu, you'll find plenty of intriguing cocktails that sound enticing. They also are making their own Baijiu infusions and aging some Baijiu in oak barrels. Could oak-aged Baijiu taste more like whiskey? You couldn't start a Baiju bar in Boston, especially as only about seven Baijiu are available, and the demographics probably wouldn't support such a niche bar. The next time I visit NYC, I need to check out Lumos.

As most of you know, every day is a holiday celebrating some food or drink, from National Doughnut Day to National Margarita Day. Such holidays are best when they try to bring awareness to some niche item, which needs more recognition and promotion. Americans certainly need to know much more about Baijiu so it is cool to know that there is a holiday celebrating this unique Chinese spirit, and it will soon be here.

Next month, World Baijiu Day will be held on Tuesday, August 9. This holiday was created by Jim Boyce, who runs the nightlife blog Beijing Boyce and wine blog Grape Wall of China. The intent of the holiday is to raise exposure of Baijiu, to spread awareness beyond the borders of China. There is a list of venues, those bars and restaurants, which are planning Baijiu celebrations and there is a single restaurant in Boston that is currently listed, Red Lantern. Once I learn more about what they plan to do for World Baijiu Day, I will let you know.

To be continued...

Baijiu: Drinking Etiquette & Some Reviews (Part 3)

How is Baijiu commonly consumed in China? What are some of the rituals and customs involving Baijiu?

First, and very importantly, traditionally the Chinese do not drink alcohol to get drunk. Alcohol is a significant aspect of their social interactions but moderation is expected, even when consuming a high alcohol spirit like Baijiu. It helps that Baijiu is nearly always consumed with food, helping to dilute the alcohol they drink. It is interesting though that the Chinese chose to embrace such a high-alcohol spirit when moderation is supposed to be the norm.

When you order Baijiu, you always order it by the bottle rather than the class as it is a social drink, not something to drink on your own. The bottles may have intricate closures, which give evidence that the Baijiu is authentic and not counterfeit. It seems counterfeiting Baijiu is a significant enough problem for producers to protect their Baijiu with clever closures.

The price of a Baijiu is often indicative of the status of the purchaser, so people try to buy the most expensive bottle they can afford. This also fits into the Chinese custom of gift giving, as you try to give the most expensive gift possible. Producers also specifically make the boxes which hold their Baijiu to be aesthetically pleasing, to enhance its status as a gift.

Baijiu is commonly served at room temperature or warmed and will be served in small cups, maybe half an ounce. Liken the Japanese custom of oshaku, you are not supposed to pour your own cup. You'll toast your way through a meal, doing maybe 10-15 shots of Baijiu. There are basic rules for toasting, including who should toast, what you should toast to, and more. The basic toast, a form of "cheers, is Ganbai. When you toast, you clink your glass with someone elses though you lower your glass as a sign of humility and respect. However, the other person will also try to clink their glass lower than your own, which can lead to a struggle to see who can do it the lowest. It is also considered impolite to refuse a drink when it is offered.

For a few thousand years, the Chinese have also participated in Jiuling, drinking games, and many different ones have developed, from simple dice games to more cerebral games involving guessing the identity of literary works and poems. The loser in these games has to take a drink. This isn't like beer pong though, as the objective is not to get drunk. In fact, the games were created specifically to try to limit over drinking. Such a different philosophy than how many Americans see the role of drinking games.

During the Baijiu seminar, presenter Manny Burnichon stated that the best way to drink Baijiu is to consume an entire shot rather than gently sip it. It should make you feel warm without giving you a burn. You should also find the higher quality Baijiu to be complex and smooth, with many layers of flavor. During our tasting at the seminar, we drank shots of each of the five Baijiu, and there generally wasn't any spitting involved, especially considering the high price of several of the Baijiu.

We started our tasting at the start of the seminar with a Mai Tai made with Hong Kong Baijiu.  It was delicious, fruity and fragrant with a touch of earthiness. This is the type of cocktail that would appeal to many people and was a very good introduction to the potential of Baijiu. Later, at home, I also made my own Hong Kong Baijiu cocktail, combining it with some tropical fruit juice, and it was delicious, with a slightly unique taste which would clearly differentiate it from white rum or vodka.

To appeal to more Americans, a few Baijiu producers have created some lighter, lower-alcohol Baijiu which are intended to act as a gateway to an appreciation for Baijiu. That is certainly an excellent idea, to ease Americans into this complex and intriguing spirit. As I mentioned before, you don't start someone new to Scotch with a peaty Laphroiag but rather with a milder, lighter Scotch. One of the lighter, lower-alcohol Baijiu brands is Hong Kong Baijiu (HKB)($55/750ml), and it was the first Baijiu we sampled during the seminar.

The creator of HKB is Charles Lanthier, a Frenchman who lived in China for several years and partnered with a small Baijiu producer in Sichuan province. Made in small batches, the HKB is composed of a blend of five grains, including sorghum, glutinous rice, rice, wheat and corn. Only organic ingredients are used, and fermentation occurs in old mud pits before it is distilled in a pot still. It is then aged for several years in one ton, terra-cotta jars which are buried outside up to their necks.

HKB is categorized as a Strong Aroma Baijiu and has a 43% ABV.  It was smooth and fruity, with herbal accents, a touch of sweetness and a lengthy, pleasing finish. There weren't any aromas or flavors which would turn people off, and it would definitely be an easy way to introduce people to Baijiu. It also seems versatile and would work in a variety of cocktails. It could be as simple as substituting HKB for a white liquor in a classic cocktail.

Charles Lanthier also provided me his three reasons why people should try HKB. First, it is a blend made in Sichuan specifically for western consumers containing all the characteristics of a genuine Baijiu, presented in a softer and more balanced way. Second, it is a blend that was designed to be highly mixable, which can be enjoyed in a wide variety of cocktails. Lastly, you get a high quality Baijiu for only abut $50 for a 750ml bottle, compared to many other Baijiu of similar quality which can retail from $70-$130 for only a 375ml bottle.

Next up was the Luzhou Laojiao Zisha ($65/375ml), another Strong Aroma Baijiu that is produced by a distillery in the Sichuan province which was founded back in 1573 during the Ming Dynasty. It is bottled in grainy, unpolished porcelain (see the bottle on the right side on the photo below), which is intended as an homage to this lengthy history and tradition. It is the #8 most valuable spirit brand in the world and the Zisha is bottled at 51% ABV in a 375ml for the export market. This Baijiu is made from a blend of about 60% sorghum, 20% rice and 20% wheat. I found this Baijiu to have more tropical fruit flavors with a hint of licorice and peppery notes. It intrigued my palate with its complexity and layered flavors. Once again, I didn't find any aromas or flavors which would turn off most people.

Our third Baijiu was from Shui Jing Fang Wellbay ($90/375ml), which is the oldest verifiable distillery in China, having been founded in the Sichuan province in 1408. About five years ago, the distillery was purchased by Diageo. This Baijiu, another Strong Aroma, is made from a blend of 36% sorghum, and 64% other grains, including rice, glutinous rice, wheat and corn, and has a 51% ABV. The palate on this Baijiu presented an intriguing melange of flavors, including tropical fruits like pineapple and banana, with hints of licorice and some earthy notes. It was smooth and well balanced, with a lingering finish, ending with a slightly bitter note. With its earthy element, this wouldn't be the best Baijiu to introduce to a newcomer, but it also isn't overly earthy and I enjoyed it very much.

Wu Liang Ye Baijiu ($180/375ml) is produced in the city of Yibin in the Sichuan province, and Baijiu production in this city extends back to the Ming Dynasty, sometime from the latter 14th century to the mid-17th century. Around 1900, one of the distillers created a five-grain recipe, which is still used today for their Baijiu, and the term Wuliangye translates as "five grain liquid." In 1951, eight distilleries in Yibin were consolidated, becoming the Yibin Wuliangye Distillery in 1959. It is now the second most popular Baijiu brand in the world. Made from an organic blend of sorghum, wheat, rice, glutinous rice and corn, this Strong Aroma Baijiu has a 52% ABV. On the palate, it was reminiscent of the taste profile of the Shui Jing Fang Wellbay but it was a bit more earthy and there was much more pineapple than banana.   

We ended the tasting with the famous Kweichow Moutai ($170/375ml), a Sauce Aroma Baijiu, and the #1 top selling spirit brand in the world. The town of Moutai, in the Guizhou province, has been producing Baijiu for a few hundred years and in 1951, the different distilleries were consolidated into a single company, Kweichow Moutai Winery. It is the official state liquor of China and about 200 tons of Kweichow Moutai are sold in over 100 countries. Rather than use mud pits for fermentation, they use brick pits and this Baijiu is made from 100% sorghum and has a 53% ABV.

In the above picture, you can see the Moutai bottle in the middle, with its red and white colors. To most Americans, that doesn't look like what you would expect from such an expensive spirit. It seems almost like cheap packaging, something for an inexpensive liquor. The Chinese certainly have a different aesthetic in this matter. This Baijiu had the strongest, most funky aroma of the five and there was much more earthiness on the palate, with a complex blend of hints of licorice, herbs, nuts and spices. This is certainly not a Baijiu for newcomers and the unique flavors will appeal more to a select audience. The Moutai reminded me of some Kimoto/Yamahai Sakes, which possess an earthier and gamier flavor. It's not for everyone, but the right audience will appreciate it.

I also recently had the opportunity to taste another Baijiu, during a media visit to Wu Er Barbecue in Brookline. I had a shot of the Jian Nan Chun, a distillery with a history of over 1000 years. This is a Strong Aroma Baijiu, with a 52% ABV, and is made from a blend of sorghum, rice, glutinous rice, wheat and corn. This reminded me in some ways to the HKB, being smooth, light and fruity, with a hint of appealing licorice flavor. There was no burn as I drank it, and the aromas were appealing.

To be continued...

Baijiu: Its Unique Production Process (Part 2)

Now that we understand how popular it is, we should learn more about the basics of Baijiu, from how it is made to its various styles and types. Please note that I'm providing some broad generalizations here and that there are plenty of exceptions and differences in such a large spirits industry, comprising about 10,000 distilleries. At its most basic, Baijiu is a grain-based, Chinese distilled spirit. It is also a white spirit, in color, that is produced similar to a brown spirit. In some respects, it's production methods also remind me of elements of Sake brewing.

Baijiu can be produced from a number of different grains though sorghum is the most common. Sorghum is a very hardy plant, able to withstand many drought conditions, and with a number of defenses against insects and other animals. It can grow in places where most other grains cannot and is a common grain in parts of Africa too. Regions with high amounts of sorghum often made beer from that grain, and sorghum beer is still made in many parts of the world. In China, sorghum also became the dominant grain for distillation.

In the U.S., though other grains, from rye to corn, dominated the spirits industry, sorghum was still used by some to make beer, wine and spirits. For example, in 1950, about 789,000 tons of sorghum were used to make spirits though that significantly decreased to 88,000 tons by the 1970s. And during that 20+ year period, more sorghum was used to create spirits than rye. Currently, the U.S. is the world's largest producer of sorghum and it is fascinating that about 95% of that crop is exported to China!

Other grains that are commonly used for Baijiu, sometimes in blends, include rice, glutinous rice, corn and wheat. Some distilleries have their own secret blend recipes while others freely reveal the proportions in their blends. After the grain or blend has been selected, it is then cooked.

There is an intriguing preparatory step prior to the fermentation phase, the creation of the qu, (pronounced "chew"), a starter culture that is very similar in some ways to the koji used to produce Japanese Sake. To make qu, which was invented around 2000 years ago, they leave a packed brick or ball of damp grains out in a warm place for a month or longer, allowing all sorts of yeasts, fungi and other microorganisms to grow on it. The role of qu is to saccharify the starches in the grain so that yeast can turn the sugars into alcohol. Once ready, the qu is crushed and the powder is mixed in with the grain blend for fermentation.

Most spirits undergo a two step process, where the grains are first saccharified and then fermentation occurs. With Baijiu though, the process entails multiple parallel fermentation, where the saccharification of the starches and the fermentation of the sugars occurs simultaneously. That is similar to the production of Sake, one of the only other alcohols made through multiple parallel fermentation. Within the Sake fermentation vat, there is koji which helps to break the starches down into sugar at the same times as the yeast turns the sugars into alcohol.

In addition, Baijiu is produced through solid-state fermentation, meaning that it occurs without adding water to the grain and qu mix. The fermentation of nearly every other spirit requires the addition of water, making Baijiu more unique. Again though, Sake is one of the few other alcohols which conducts solid-state fermentation, with the creation of koji, though later in the process, additional fermentation does occur with the addition of water.

Fermentation of Baijiu commonly occurs in 10 foot deep mud pits! The grain and qu is placed into the mud pit and another layer of mud is placed atop it. They regularly wet the mud with water or Baijiu, and it takes about 70-80 days to ferment. In southern China, the climate leads to a longer fermentation period than it does in northern China, a difference of about 15-30 days. Distilleries are very attached to their locations and mud pits, some which can be over 100 years old, and they believe the mud pits create a specific taste typical of that location because of the microorganisms in the mud. It is thus considered a fact that these mud pits contribute to the flavor of the Baijiu. I'm unaware of any other spirit that is fermented in a mud pit.

Once fermentation is complete, you might have remaining either a large pile of grains or a mash which has some liquid which needs to be separated from the liquid. The liquid is referred to as huangjiu,  "yellow wine." The mash is not wasted and is commonly returned to the mud pit, kind of like a solera method. Some old mud pits thus end up with some mash that could be over 100 years old or more. This recycled mash may also make some slight changes to the grain proportions of the blend so what you see on the label might not be fully accurate. The fermented solids or liquid is then distilled and steam is often used to heat it. The number of distillations will vary from producer to producer and it is alleged that Kweichow Moutai is distilled forty times, though that doesn't seem credible.

The distilled spirit is then aged in terra cotta urns, commonly for a year or two, though you will find some Baijiu that has been aging for 80+ years. These porous vessels are considered a way to purify the product, and don't add any flavor or color to the spirit like oak would do. It is said that with this type of aging, you lose more than you gain. Once the aging is complete, the spirit is diluted a bit with water to bring the proof down to roughly 100-120. The Baijiu also usually undergoes a blending process, using different aged spirits, which helps to provide consistency to the final product.

Due to the complexities and diversity of Baijiu, the Chinese government worked at classifying Baijiu, to make it a bit easier to categorize. As such, Baijiu is now generally divided into four main categories, identified by their aroma, which is another thing that makes Baijiu unique. Do you know any other spirit that is categorized by smell? I don't. The four basic categories include mi xiang (rice aroma), qing xiang (light aroma), nong xiang (strong aroma), and jiang xiang (sauce aroma).

Rice aroma is the mildest of the group, with a sweeter flavor and often floral notes. Americans who are starting out with Baijiu might want to begin with this category, the same that if you were getting into Scotch you would start with a mild type first, like Glenmorangie, rather than just jumping in with a highly peaty Scotch like Laphroaig. Light aroma is also relatively mild and smooth, and generally are the least expensive to make.

Strong aroma, the most commonly consumed style, is commonly spicy, pungent and fruity with a strong taste on the finish. Some of these Baijiu can be very expensive. Sauce aroma is full-bodied, with a very strong and savory aroma that might remind you of soy sauce or blue cheese, a very earthy, gamey smell. Generally, these Baijiu undergo numerous distillations and lengthier aging. The strong aromas and flavors are akin in some respects to a peaty Scotch, a profile that isn't for everyone but which aficionados greatly enjoy. To me, the Sauce style reminds me more of Kimoto/Yamahai Sake, which also possesses gamey/earthy flavors and plenty of umami.

Beside these four main categories, you will find a variety of other smaller categories such as Phoenix Aroma, Mixed Aroma, Sesame Aroma and more. There are also flavored varieties, some infused with various medicinal herbs and spices, and even one type that is flavored with pork fat. For example, the Kiukiang Distillery specializes in pork-fat infused rice Baijiu (and I really need to try this style of Baijiu.)

To be continued...

Baijiu: The Durian Fruit Of The Spirits World (Part 1)

"I think if we drink enough Moutai we can solve anything.”
--Henry Kissinger (Moutai is a famous brand of Baijiu)

Baijiu, a distilled spirit that originated in China, seems to me to be the Durian fruit of the spirits world. The infamous Durian fruit, native to Southeast Asia, has a reputation for possessing one of the most foul odors you will ever smell, sometimes described as similar to rotten onions, road kill, or even sweaty socks. However, there are plenty of people, especially in Southeast Asia, who love the taste, and even the smell, of Durian, often considering it to be the "king of fruits."

Baijiu too has a reputation with many people of having a foul smell and taste, reminiscent of stinky cheese, gasoline, and even sweaty socks. However, it is also the most popular spirit in the world, due primarily to its massive consumption within China. It is an integral part of Chinese culture yet its popularity outside China has problems, mainly because a significant number of people believe it has a horrendous taste. Like Durian, Baijiu isn't properly appreciated outside of Asia.

In addition, many Americans know very little, if anything, about Baijiu and if they do possess some limited information, it may be a mix of errors and misconceptions. Hopefully that will soon start to change. Baijiu can now be found in a growing number of restaurants and bars, and during the last year, a number of media outlets have written basic articles about Baijiu. It's certainly a niche beverage in the U.S. but it's fascinating and you'll find the taste often isn't quite what you expect. There is good reason why Baijiu deserves greater recognition in the U.S.

I'm relatively new myself to the wonders of Baijiu but I'm very much intrigued by the spirit and have been trying to learn much more about it. I see some similarities to Japanese Sake and am curious about Baijiu's potential pairing with food, based on its apparent umami nature. The Baijiu I have tasted have been delicious, without any tastes or aromas which turned me off. It's a spirit I recommend that you explore as well and I want to provide you some information about Baijiu, from its history to production methods, to encourage your own exploration.

During the next few weeks, I'll be posting a number of articles about various aspects of Baijiu, trying to show its complexities and mystery, its variations and delights. I hope that you find it to be a fascinating journey and I encourage your feedback.

Recently, at Thirst Boston, I attended a compelling seminar, Baijiu: The Most Popular Drink You've Never Heard Of, which was described as: "Baijiu is likely the world’s oldest distilled spirit and currently the most consumed – and yet it’s virtually unknown in the United States. This is your opportunity to taste some of the most complex and unique spirits that have ever been made by distilleries dating back to the 15th century. Learn about how Baijiu differs from all other distilled spirits in the world and taste for yourself the regional and stylistic differences between different expressions."

This was probably one of the first Baijiu class in the Boston area that was open to the public and it was an excellent opportunity to learn the basics of this spirit and get to taste five different Baijiu. It helped set the stage for my further explorations of Baijiu. There is also a single English book about this Chinese spirit, Baijiu: The Essential Guide To Chinese Spirits by Derek Sandhaus, which has been helpful in providing additional information about Baijiu (and which I will review in a later post). In addition, I've consulted numerous magazines, online articles, scientific journals, and books that mention this spirit. We certainly need more English articles and books about Baijiu as it seems we've only scratched the surface of its potential.

The Thirst Boston Baijiu seminar was presented by Manny Burnichon, founder and CEO of Private Cask Imports as well as National Brand Ambassador for CNS Imports, which has been importing Baijiu into the U.S. for about 32 years. Who knew Baijiu has been available in the U.S. for that long? CNS used to sell Baijiu primarily in Asian communities in the U.S., especially in Los Angles, New York City and Texas. Now though, they have begun a push to market Baijiu to the non-Asian market in the U.S. and face a number of obstacles, including misinformation and ignorance about Baijiu. I hope that my posts about Baijiu might contribute in even a small way to help educate consumers about this interesting Chinese spirit.

Baijiu is most often pronounced as "bye joe," but there are different sources claiming it is pronounced as "bye gio," "bah joo" or "bye zho." The term "baijiu" was derived from two words, "bai"(“transparent”) and "jiu" (“alcoholic drink”), so baijiu is roughly translated as "white liquor," reflective of its white color. In addition, baijiu is also sometimes known by other terms such as samshu (Cantonese for "thrice fired"), baigan and shaojiu. 

It is difficult to pinpoint the exact origin of Baijiu, with some sources claiming its ancestors extend back two to three thousand years. Many sources seem to agree that it was most likely invented about a 1000 years ago, though it didn't receive the name Baijiu until about 300 or so years ago. There are some Baijiu distilleries that can trace their history back 500-600 years.

Baijiu is an important element of Chinese culture, something which is essentially consumed at every restaurant, at every holiday, for every special occasion and with every business deal. It is even entwined within Chinese diplomacy, as in 1951, Zhou Enlai, the first Premier of China, declared Kweichow Moutai Baijiu to be the National Liquor. As such, it is regularly served at official state dinners and U.S. Presidents from Richard Nixon on have been toasted with Moutai.

The title of the Thirst Boston seminar, "The Most Popular Drink You've Never Heard Of," is a common refrain, almost a cliche now, in many of the recent articles in the media about Baijiu. Some outlets are just trying to be trendy, to highlight a new spirit before they move onto writing about the next hot, new spirit. Other are more serious about Baijiu, trying to introduce Americans to this intriguing Chinese spirit. Even if the phrase seems to be getting over used, it is hard to deny the truth of that matter. Many Americans know little, if anything about Baijiu, and it's the most popular spirit in the world. How can it be so popular yet Americans be so clueless about its existence?

Statistics on Baijiu consumption and sales are not always easy to find, and one of the major reports on the matter came from International Wine & Spirit Research. In 2012, Baijiu was the largest spirit category in the world, based on consumption, at 31% (over 11 billion liters) while second place was occupied by Vodka, at 19%. The next three spots were taken by Whiskey (11%), Shochu (9%), and Brandy (6%). The value of the Baijiu market was approximately $23 billion, accounting for about 55% of the alcohol value in China, with beer accounting for 31% and wine only 7%. Of the $23 Billion in Baijiu, it is broken down into low end (21%), value (18%), standard (30%), premium (17%) and super premium (14%).

There are said to be about 10,000 different Baijiu distilleries in China, producing an enormous diversity of Baijiu, from very cheap alcohol to super premium bottles which can cost ten of thousands of dollars. Back in 2010, the #1 spirit brand in the world was Johnny Walker and Kweichow Moutai, a Baijiu, was down at #9. However, only three years later, Johnny Walker was still #1 but Kweichow Moutai had moved up to #2. And presently, Kweichow Moutai has continued its climb and now sits at the #1 spot, having finally dethroned Johnny Walker. That is an epic climb in a short amount of years.

Within China, the primary demographic currently consuming Baijiu is men over 40, while the younger generation tends to gravitate more toward other spirits and drinks, such as Western-style cocktails and wine. This is similar to what occurred in Japan as younger generations moved away from drinking traditional Sake. However, unlike Sake and despite these demographics, Baijiu still saw double-digit growth during the period of 2007-2012. Much of that growth was attributable to the government, which was responsible for 40%-50% of all Baijiu purchases.

It would then be the government which would cause chaos within the Baijiu industry. In 2012,  in order to combat corruption, President Xi Jinping enacted a series of anti-graft measures, partially to drastically limit the amount of expensive Baijiu consumed at official government dinners and business events. With the crackdown, Baijiu producers saw a significant decrease in purchases, leading to only a 3% growth in 2014, much different than their prior double digit growth. Obviously, with the industry's prior reliance on the huge government market, the new laws were destined to reduce sales.

Thus, Baijiu producers started a more concerted effort to find new markets for Baijiu through exportation though this is still in its relative infancy. This is also what some Sake breweries have done to help their industry because of decreased Sake consumption within Japan. Sake producers have started increasing exports to places like the U.S. and Australia. Interestingly, Baijiu sales have started to rebound, having increased by about 7% in 2015. As for exports, Australia is currently the #1 market while the U.S. is at #2, with the bulk of sales to Chinese immigrants. Importers are hoping that those demographics will change, with a greater number of non-Asians embracing Baijiu. For this to occur, American consumers need to be given reasons why they should drink Baijiu.

Baijiu: Its Unique Production Process (Part 2)
Baijiu: Drinking Etiquette & Some Reviews (Part 3)
Baijiu: Cocktails, Boston & World Baijiu Day (Part 4)
Baijiu: Food Pairings (Part 5)
Vinn Bajiu: Made in Portland
Baijiu: The Essential Guide To Chinese Spirits by Derek Sandhaus
World Baijiu Day: August 9

Rant: Choosing Spirits At A Liquor Store

When you peruse the shelves of your local liquor store, seeking maybe Rum, Mezcal or Gin, you're most often confronted with generic labels identifying only the very broad categories of spirits. For example, you'll see "Gin" but no other signs breaking down that category into different styles or types. At best, the Whiskey category may see a bit more differentiation, though even that provides only slightly less broad general categories like Bourbon or Scotch.

Each of these broad spirit categories likely includes dozens of different brands as well as a number of different styles and types. For example, within the general Rum category, you'll find French, Spanish and British styles, yet when is the last time any liquor store sorted and labeled their Rum section into those different styles? When is the last time you visited a liquor shop which provided separate signage for Barrel-Aged Gins? Probably never to either question.

How does a consumer navigate this morass of choices? It's not easy unless you know the categories well, which often leads an uniformed consumer to select just the brands they know., which may often be the large commercial brands which everyone knows. Instead of seeking out something different, they go with the safe choice. The consumer can speak to the employees of the store, seeking advice and recommendations. However, they are not always inclined to do so, sometimes preferring to be approached by the staff. What else might help these consumers?

It might be beneficial if there was better signage on the shelves, a more clear demarcation of the different styles and types of spirits. At Thirst Boston, one of the presenters, Benjamin Melin-Jones, mentioned that it would be good if liquor shops would separate rum into the three basic types, to help consumers understand the different types. And if a consumer had a preference for a specific style, they could more easily find those rums which fit within that style. This idea is a good one for all spirit categories and it is true that most liquor stores only use generic categories which are almost useless to the average consumer.

It would be nice to see clear signage separating Mixto Tequila from 100% Blue Agave Tequila, or London Dry Gin from Old Tom Gin, or Wheated Bourbon from High Rye Bourbon. This would better help consumers differentiate the various spirit types and it might also perk their curiosity about different types they didn't know about. They might also be a bit more adventurous in the brands they select. If the brand they usually purchase is in the Wheated Bourbon category, then maybe they will try other brands in that category, feeling a bit more secure to make that purchase. It could also lead them to ask the employees more specific questions about the various types. Maybe they enjoy drinking certain Gin but aren't sure what a n Old Tom Gin tastes like so they ask about it.

Why don't liquor stores use more signage for their spirits? First, it is much easier to use only a small number of broad category signs. It would take more time and effort to better differentiate the spirit types but I think the benefits would be worth it. Second, some stores want consumers to ask them questions, so they intentionally keep the signage low. Though that sometimes works, it also fails with other customers who'd rather just buy what they know rather than seek out a store employee to question.

Let's see liquor stores take a more proactive role in helping to educate consumers by providing more detailed signage for their spirits, breaking them down into specific styles and types. Show consumers that all rums, tequilas, gins and other spirits are not the same.  Show them that the difference between the various brands is not just about price points.

Do you know any liquor stores who actually do provide more detailed signage for their spirits?    

Thirst Boston: Drinks Of Note

Besides all the seminars at Thirst Boston, there were Pop-Up Bars as well as a couple tasting events, including the New England Craft Showcase (pictured above), which featured 18 local drink producers from the New England states. A similar event was held at the last Thirst Boston, though there were only 12 producers last time. This event, as well as the Pop-UP Bars, were Free for anyone who had a ticket to any other Thirst Boston event, such as a seminar ticket.

I think the local aspect of this event is great and it is an excellent way for people to learn about what is being produced in their own backyard. Many of these local producers are relatively new, having been established within the last five years, and people may not know they even exist. I certainly found a couple producers that were new to me. New distilleries, breweries and wineries are popping up all the time in New England so it's great to have the opportunity to bring a number of them together in one place.

I'm going to present a few of my favorite finds, drinks and/or producers which I haven't tasted or written about before. There were some producers which I met at the last Thirst Boston and wrote about back at that time. I also didn't have the time to taste from all 18 producers at this event. Though the event lasted for 2.5 hours, it conflicted in part with a seminar I attended. I hope Thirst Boston holds this event next year and if so, I highly recommend you check it out. I suspect it might even be larger next year, adding more local producers.

A Sake Brewery in Massachusetts? Yes, one recently opened in Waltham and you should check out their two Sakes, a Junmai and a Nigori. Founded by Todd Bellomy (pictured above) and Daniel Krupp, Dovetail's goal is to "produce high-quality Sake in small batches using the finest ingredients." They have been in the market for only about a month and you can find their Sake in several wine/beer stores as well as 6-7 restaurants. For example, you can find their Nakahama Junmai on draft at Tasting Counter. Check out their List of where their Sake can be currently found.

For rice, they are using Yamada Nishiki, often considered the King of Sake rice, which was grown in Arkansas at maybe the only place where Sake rice is being grown in the U.S. The rice has been milled down to 60%, which technically would qualify it as Ginjo but they have chosen not to label their Sake as such. Both of their Sakes are Junmai, "pure rice" Sake which only contains four ingredients: rice, water, yeast and koji-kin. Dovetail grows their own koji and use Japanese yeast strains, using different yeasts for their different Sakes. Their Sakes are also Nama-zake, "draft" Sakes which have not been pasteurized twice as usual. Both Sakes are available in 500ml bottles as well as on Draft.

The Nakahama Junmai has a touch of sweetness and presents a smooth and fruity taste, some melon and pear. Todd recommends pairing this Sake with meat-based dishes, grilled foods, charcuterie, cheese and tacos. The Omori Nigori is a bit more full-bodied and sweeter than the Junmai, though it is far less sweet than many other Nigoris you will find. There is lots of fruit, a bit more tropical, flavors in the taste. Todd recommends pairing this Sake with fried food, spicy food (such as Mexican or Thai), and even suggests you drink it on ice! Of the two, my preference is for the Nigori but both are worth checking out.

In the near future, I hope to tour the brewery and will be able to provide you many more details about their operation.

During my weekend in Vermont at Taste Camp, I found plenty of excellent producers, of wine, cider and spirits. One of the producers I didn't see there was Mad River Distillers though I was fortunate to see them at Thirst Boston. Around 2011, they purchased Cold Spring Farm in Waitsfield, Vermont and decided to start a distillery there, which became Mad River Distillers. They produced their first spirit in 2013, a rum. Currently, they produce several different rums, a bourbon, a rye and a brandy.

Their Revolution Rye ($50) is produced from 100% local and organic rye, using 3 different types of rye including a toasted chocolate malted rye. It was smooth and delicious, with plenty of spice, enhanced by some nutty notes and chocolate hints. As a Rye lover, I was impressed with this spirit. The First Run Rum ($30) is made from fair-trade certified Demerara sugar and aged in charred American oak. Sweet and silky, with underlying spice notes, the rum also possessed some strong caramel and vanilla flavors, especially on the finish. You could enjoy this on its own or in a cocktail. The Maple Cask Rum ($40) begins as the First Run Rum but then is aged in American oak barrels which were used to age maple syrup. It has only a subtle hint of maple and the sweetness now tends more to butterscotch than caramel. This could add some intriguing flavors to a rum cocktail.

Back in 2012, I toured Privateer, a new rum distillery in Ipswich and you can read my prior review and follow-up information. I think it is time I returned to the distillery to get an update, and to talk with their new Head Distiller, Maggie Campbell. At Thirst Boston, they had a couple of their newest products, which were both impressive but very different.

The Navy Yard is a single barrel rum, aged for at least two years in new American oak, and bottled at 102 proof in very limited quantities. It was bold and delicious, with a nice complexity of flavors, including caramel, butterscotch, orange, almonds, vanilla and subtle spice notes. This is definitely a sipping rum, which will deliver new flavors in every sip. Highly recommended.

The Queen's Share is also a single cask rum, aged for about three years in new American oak, and bottled at 114 proof in very limited quantities. It is a blend of their other three rums and was a lighter, more elegant style than the Navy Yard. However, it still possessed a similar complexity with lots of fruit, honey, caramel, vanilla and spice notes. It too is a rum to slowly savor on its own, relishing each unique sip. Words are inadequate to describe the complete experience of drinking these two rums.

Privateer also had a punchbowl full of a tasty cocktail, full of watermelon flavor, yet still mainly dry with a nice acidic bite. It was refreshing and would be a great summer drink. I think I'll have to make this for a cookout soon.

Rumson's Rum, which has been in business for 1.5 years, is located in Salem, Massachusetts, and they produce four different rums. Their rums are distilled and barrel-aged in the Caribbean but then blended, finished and bottled in Salem. Their Spiced Rum is about two years olds, bottled at 80 proof, and some vanilla and nutmeg has been added to it. It is their #1 seller and possesses an alluring aroma and a pleasant taste of vanilla, spice, butterscotch, and cinnamon. Easy drinking, this would be a good choice for cocktails. The Grand Reserve is a blend of rums aged from 5 to 23 years and is made in an English style. It is bold and rich, with an intriguing complexity and a lengthy finish. A fine sipping rum, this would be wasted in a cocktail.

Thirst Boston: Distillers Round Table--Dave Pickerell of WhistlePig

"It doesn't get any more American than Rye."
--Dave Pickerell

Over the last six years, the category of Rye Whiskey has grown approximately 600%, and Dave Pickerell sees this as a trend rather than a fad. It isn't a trend he created, but rather one he recognized early and surged forward to become one of the top producers of Rye. I've met Dave a few times previously and he has always been a fascinating speaker, full of historical information and a deep passion for Rye.

At Thirst Boston, I chose to attend the Distillers Round Table: Dave Pickerell of WhistlePig, which was described as: "It seems like every spirit comes with age claims and descriptions of special barrel finishes on its label these days. So what do these designations actually mean, and how can they help you better understand what’s inside the bottle? Dave Pickerell, WhistlePig Whiskey Master Distiller, will break down the process of whiskey distillation and maturation. Taste a range of differently-aged expressions, including WhistlePig’s new distillate “White Pig,” direct from the new WhistlePig facility, and learn about the role casking plays in creating the final product. This is a chance to learn while experiencing and you’ll come out of the session with a deep understanding and personal appreciation for what goes into a single expression of whiskey."

This was an excellent opportunity to listen to Dave Pickerell speak about Rye and get to taste the WhistlePig products. Dave previously spent 14 years working at Maker's Mark and he now runs Oak View Consulting, assisting a number of other distilleries, such as WhistlePig, Hillrock Estate Distillery, and the George Washington's Distillery. He is nationally recognized as a whiskey expert, and his services are sought out by many distilleries. He apparently even has whiskey in his blood, as his great grandmother’s uncle was Colonel E.H. Taylor, said by many to be the father of the bourbon industry.

(I'll also note that I'm including in this article information from Dave that he provided in another seminar.)

In 1964, Congress passed a resolution, stating Bourbon was a "distinctive product of the U.S." but Rye never received such a distinction and Dave feels that's unfortunate as he believes rye is at the backbone of American history. Prior to the Revolutionary War, rum was hugely popular in the U.S. but with the revolution came an opposition to all things British. As Britain had its connection to the rum trade, American sought a replacement spirit and adopted rye whiskey as their drink of choice. From the Revolutionary War to the Civil War, American soldiers received daily rations of rye whiskey.

There are two main types of rye whiskey, Maryland and Monongahela, the primary difference being that Maryland includes corn in its mash bill but Monongahela contains no corn. With the repeal of Prohibition, Monongahela rye nearly died off with Maryland rye taking the prominent role. First, as Prohibition ended, Canadian whiskey, Caribbean rum and Scotch were ready to swoop in to supply Americans, while American breweries had difficulty in competing quality-wise as most of their spirits were very young, lacking aging. This led to the creation of large commercial distilleries, to benefit from economies of scale, as the only way U.S. distilleries could compete was through lower prices. Second, the Grain Subsidy Act provided subsidies for corn but not rye, so much more corn was planted.

Around 2002 or so, rye was "circling the drain," facing a slow death, and only a few large producers were making rye whiskey. Fortunately, the arrive of the cocktail culture helped to turn that around. While these mixologists were researching historical cocktails, they discovered how many were originally made with rye whiskey, fueling their desire for this spirit. In 2006, bartenders were primarily responsible for the growth of the rye whiskey category by 20% in one year. The trend was starting and opportunities abounded.

Dave, who went to West Point, is a chemist and chemical engineer. He spent about 14 years working at Maker's Mark, noting that they made one mistake, allowing him to volunteer at George Washington Distillery as that is how they ultimately lost him. When George Washington died in 1799, his distillery was producing about 11,000 gallons of rye, which was the largest known distillery at that time. There might have been a larger one elsewhere, but currently there's no known proof of such. In 1814, one of Washington's heirs apparently burnt down the distillery, a case of potential insurance fraud, though the insurance was ultimately paid out.

In 2001, the decision was made to rebuild the distillery and Dave was recruited to help out. At this time, few people were drinking rye but Dave was seduced by rye whiskey. Three years later, the first distillation was conducted at the new distillery. By 2007, the category of rye had grown by 30% and Dave decided to leave Maker's Mark so he could produce rye whiskey. However, he left without having any investors and he didn't receive a severance package. It was a very risky move but in December 2009, he made a contract with Raj Peter Bhakti, who had founded Whistlepig in 2006, to be their Master Distiller. They released their first product in April 2010.

Dave's ultimate goal to is grow rye and produce whiskey from that rye. However, initially they have had to source the rye and whiskey. Vermont hasn't been the friendliest place for their distillery and it took nearly 6 years for them to get everything approved. That can be contrasted with the opening of Hillrock Estate Distillery in the Hudson Valley of New York which only took 9 months! Dave wanted to produce Monongahela-style rye, generally using 100% rye, though with a little allowance for 1%-2% malted barley to enhance the consistency of his product when needed.

Rye that you purchase in the U.S. generally doesn't make good whiskey at it is mainly a cover crop, which is why WhistlePig purchased rye from Canada. They have imported 2 varieties of seed from Western Canada for their own fields. They still can't legally harvest, partially as they can't afford the cost of a harvester, but have been following all the rules and look forward to changing that in the near future. The price of rye is currently high, especially as some places don't have enough rye. They opened their own distillery last October and are moving forward with their original goals. There are even oak trees on their property and they have started sending some of the wood away to be made into barrels.

Dave feels that rye should be spicy and not sweet as it becomes with the addition of corn. He also poetically waxed that rye whiskey is like a great first date. It has "lots of character, is full bodied, well rounded, has a long finish, and no aggression." Dave stated that they wanted to "make good whiskey at a good price." They seek to reach a certain taste point, not a price point, and want to control the category of rye over 6 years old. In addition, Dave feels that alcohol is present to deliver taste so the last thing they do is set the proof, believing there is an ideal proof for each type of alcohol.

When making rye, you must be careful of high tannins and such tannins don't work well. If you leave rye in the barrel too long, the tannins will get out of control. You need to balance the wood to decrease the aggression of the rye without raising the tannins too high. Dave does this with a two barrel system, placing the rye first in a new white oak barrel until the tannins reach a certain level and then placing the rye into a second barrel, a used bourbon barrel. The rye will spend about 5-7 years in the first barrel. The cost of barrels is the single largest cost of making whiskey. Wood, water and grain form their triple terroir.

For the tasting component, we got to sample four products from WhistlePig and I resampled some of those products last weekend at TasteCamp Vermont. First, we began with The White Pig, which hasn't yet been released. This is a white rye whiskey, essentially the distillate straight from the still. It is made with 100% rye, give or take, and presents with some interesting fruity notes and a hint of sweetness, along with some underlying spice notes.

We then moved onto the Whistle Pig 10 Year Old Straight Rye, which I first sampled back in July 2012, having then been very impressed. I nearly always have a bottle of this at my home bar and often use it when making Manhattans. Though the label says it is 10 years old, the rye's age varies from 10-12 years. On the nose, it will remind you of an aged bourbon but the taste is different, presenting plenty of complexity with delicious spices notes, smooth tannins and a sweet & spicy kick. It possesses a lengthy, smooth finish and I continue to highly recommend this rye whiskey.

Scotch producers, such as Glenmorangie, started gaining popularity for their use of various  finishing barrels, from Sherry to Cognac. Dave decided to experiment on his own, purchasing a large variety of barrels until finally deciding on five types: Madeira, Sauternes, Port, Cognac, and Sherry. He produced some limited editions and eventually decided to create a more unique rye, marrying the finishes of three different barrels. That led to the creation of the 12 Year Old "Old World (about $115)

Dave views this rye as like a cocktail with four ingredients, and knowing that you should be able to taste each individual ingredient. The Port barrels were very dominant so it needed to take more of a minimal role in the final blend. In the end, the Old World became a blend of 63% Maderia, 30% Sauternes and 7% Port. At 86 proof, this is a "straight-up dessert" with a delectable diversity of flavors, with plenty of fruit flavors, especially some ripe plum and figs, with plenty of pepper and spice, caramel and honey. You can taste the influences of the three barrels and it works well in a harmonious blend. A lengthy and satisfying finish will make you crave more. Highly recommended.

Just released on the market is the amazing, albeit pricey, 15 Year Old Straight Rye Whiskey ($199). The base of this rye is the 10 Year Old except it sits in the barrel for another 4.5 years and then is finished for anther 6 months in barrels of Vermont White Oak with a #4 char. At 92 proof, only 6000 bottles were released in the U.S. though more will be made available in September. This is a massively impressive rye, with such a phenomenal, complex melange of aromas and flavors. There is plenty of spice, caramel, butterscotch, vanilla, citrus, and even a touch of smoke. Every sip seems to bring something new to your palate and you won't want to quite sipping until the bottle is empty. It is a liquid aphrodisiac, decadently delicious with a sensual mouthfeel. I can't recommend it highly enough.

"Friday is Rye-day"
--Dave Pickerell

Thirst Boston: Single Malts of Scotland

Comparison tastings can be some of the best ways to understand a beverage, especially the nuances, an excellent way to determine the similarities and differences between a group of drinks. It works with both wine and spirits and I always cherish the opportunity to engage in these type of tasting events. At Thirst Boston, they have conducted some of these comparison tastings in the past as well as in their most recent event.

At the recent Thirst Boston, I attended the seminar and tasting class Single Malts of Scotland and it was described as: "With over a hundred distilleries, Scotland’s eponymous spirit is doubtless its best-known export. There is perhaps no finer expression than a single malt, made according to strict regulations and thus intrinsically emblematic of the place from which it comes. Join Bill Codman, Master of Whiskey, on a tour of Scotland from mountains to sea, from rolling hills of heather to desolate peat bogs, through the distinctive tastes of the single malts produced there." It was an intriguing event, with some amazing Scotch, and was a fun and tasty way to learn about the various regional styles of Scotch.

The presenter was William "Bill" Codman, Master of Whiskey at Diageo, which currently represents about 28 distilleries plus some closed ones. With his #LoveScotch t-shirt, Bill was a fun and informative presenter, obviously passionate about Scotch. If you want to learn more about Scotch, you should check out any of his future seminar or tasting events.

Bill began with providing some basic information about Scotch, noting that is is essentially a distilled grain spirit that is matured and bottled within Scotland. There are three main categories of Scotch: Grain, Single Malt and Blended. Grain Scotch is very rare, and usually a mix of barley and wheat. It tends to be sweet and usually ends up being put into blends. Single Malt Scotch must be made from 100% malted barley and made in a single distillery. Bill thinks that a better name for this would be Single Barley. Only about 8%-9% of Scotch production is Single Malt. Blended Scotch is a combination of grain and single malts and is the largest portion of production.

There was then a brief description of the production process, especially discussing malted barley. Only four distilleries still do their own malting, most distilleries sourcing out to large malt houses. There was mention that to create whiskey, you first make a beer which then gets distilled. And that is why the first still is often called the beer still and the second is the spirits still. Copper is used for stills was it has a number of advantages and it never wears out. If the inside of a copper still starts to deteriorate, new copper plates are just layered in, and that can be done near ad infinitum. Interestingly, Coopers, who create, finish, and repair barrels, are the highest paid manual laborers in Europe.

The flavor of Scotch can be affected by some many different factors, such as the length of fermentation, phenol levels in peat, size of still, type of still, what its aged in and much more. Scotch does not possess terroir but there are some regional differences in it. In general, Scotland is broken down into four regions: Highlands, Lowlands, Speyside, & Islands. As such, there are some commonalities shared by the whiskies of each region, though it cannot be taken as an absolute.

We tasted six Scotches, from the four regions, to give us a sense of the differences. Our tasting began with two Scotches from the Highlands, a region where the style tends to be sweeter with citrus and straw/hay notes. The Dalwhinnie 15 Year Old Single Malt is from the highest distillery in Scotland, at an altitude over over 1000 feet. This whiskey was light and subtle, with grassy and floral notes. A quiet elegance.

The Oban 18 Year Old Single Malt (about $120) was outstanding and was my favorite Scotch of the tasting. Located in the Coastal Highlands, it is a tiny distillery located right next to the ocean and unable to grow any larger. Despite its closeness to the sea, it s whiskey doesn't possess a saline or maritime taste. Oban Scotch does not sell their Scotch to anyone else, so you won't find it in a blend anywhere. This Scotch was amazing, with a complex and harmonious blend of flavors, including baked orange, bold spices, a hint of smoke, caramel, and much more. Each sip since to bring a new flavor to your palate. The finish felt like it wouldn't ever end and it is the type of Scotch you would slowly savor all evening. It seduces your palate and will addict you as soon as you taste it. If you can find a bottle, grab it, even at this price. Highly recommended.

Next up was a Scotch from the Lowlands, the Glenkinchie 12 Year Old Single Malt. There are only about 4 distilleries in this region and their Scotch tends to be lighter and more delicate. This was a light bodied Scotch, with some earthiness in the aroma, and a taste with dried grass and a hint of smoke.

We then moved onto a Speyside Scotch, the Cardhu 12 Year Old Single Malt. The Speyside makes about 50% of all the production in Scotland and their Scotch tends to be fruity, especially as they tend to use Red American oak which give more fruity notes than White oak. And this Scotch certainly had a fruity flavor, plums and figs, with an aroma of sweet Sherry. There were some intriguing spice notes as well and a lengthy finish. A very tasty Scotch.

Onto the Islands. The middle of Scotland has long possessed a great amount of forests but the western section and the islands had few trees, and thus couldn't use it as a primary fuel source. However, those areas possessed lots of peat, basically fossilized vegetation, and it could be used for fuel, though it tends to give off a lot of smoke. And that is why distilleries in those areas use peat, making their Scotch smoky.

Talisker Distillery is the only distillery on the Isle of Skye and it is a huge distillery, selling half of their product to Johnny Walker. Talisker is Bill's favorite Scotch and the Talisker 18 Year Old Single Malt was certainly impressive, and my second favorite of the tasting. With a pleasing smoky aroma with a touch of brininess, the palate possessed a moderate peaty aspect, a nuttiness and an excellent blend of sweet and salty flavors. So complex, with a lengthy finish, this is a killer Scotch which will satisfy anyone seeking a fine, peaty whiskey. Bill recommends you pair this Single Malt with chocolate or oysters.

Finally, we enjoyed the Laguvulin 16 Year Old, from an Islay distillery well known for its peaty Scotch. It definitely had more smoke than the Talisker, though it wasn't overpowering. It presented flavors of toasted vanilla, roast meat, and some pleasing earthy notes. It will bring to mind a campfire in the deep forest, which will remain long in your memory.

Which Single Malt should you drink? I say that you should taste all the Scotch you can find and then determine which ones you prefer. Don't limit yourself to one type. Enjoy them all.

Thirst Boston: Unsung Heroes: Whiskey Blenders, Bottlers and Negociants

At Thirst Boston, the importance of blending in spirits was stressed several times at different seminars. It is an art form, requiring great knowledge, experience, and a keen nose & palate, which doesn't always receive the recognition it deserves. Proper blending, to create a distinctive but consistent style can be extremely difficult, and might include blending over fifty different bases together. Distillation is obviously quite important, but blending afterwards can be equally as significant. In addition, the barrel aging process is another vital element of the creation of a quality spirit. It is an involved and detailed process, where a myriad of factors can affect the final product.

For additional insight into these issues, I attended the seminar, Unsung Heroes: Whiskey Blenders, Bottlers and Negotiants, which was described as: "Making whiskey is the easy part; making a consistent (and delicious!) product batch after batch is almost impossibly difficult! Pondering the thousands of permutations introduced from aging, blending, vatting, mingling and proofing is enough to make your head swim. Some of the most renowned brands in the world have built their reputation on their blending skills alone: some buy white whiskey and barrel it themselves, others select cherry barrels of different ages and provenances and mingle them, while still others source delicious aged whiskeys and finish it in a variety of barrels. Whatever the method, the final product wouldn’t be what it is without these experts of selection and blending."

The presenters included Spencer McMinn, Master Distiller at GrandTen Distilling in Boston; Dave Pickerell, Master Distiller at WhistlePig in Vermont; and Raj Sabharwal, of PVI Global, the sole importer of Blackadder and Cadenhead. Though Dave Pickerell had much of interest to say, I'm going to relate his words in another post, when I discuss the seminar Distillers Round Table: Dave Pickerell of WhistlePig.

The seminar began with an overview of a number of related topics. Not everyone needs to own a distillery to produce a delicious and compelling whiskey. Blending and bottling has a long history and it wasn't until around 1880 that machine bottling became commonplace. This allowed a more easier transport of whiskey rather than in casks. It also led to a creation of independent bottlers who didn't make their own whiskey. Age statements on whiskey bottles weren't prevalent until the 1970s and there is now a movement away from age statements by a number of producers. There was a mention that blended whiskey has an image problem despite the face that blended whiskies constitute the largest percentage of production. The price of ex-bourbon barrels has been increasing as the demand has increased, from more than just whiskey producers. This has led to Scotland distilleries paying more for barrels.

GrandTen Distilling, located in South Boston, is owned by Spencer McMinn and Matthew Nuernberger and was founded in 2010, releasing their first product in 2012. Their distillery is located in a former iron foundry, and they initially learned they had a gas line problem, which wouldn't allow them to generate as much heat as they desired. As such, they needed to distill spirits such as gins and rums, which needed less heat.  I previously enjoyed several of their products and was ready to try their GrandTen South Boston Irish Whiskey (about $25).

Spencer and Matthew thought they had a hole in their portfolio so they decided to add an Irish Whiskey, which also was an homage to the Irish-American heritage of South Boston. It took them some time to find a supplier who could meet their criteria, tasting various samples they received in the mail. They wanted to create an inexpensive product, something which cost at least a few dollars less than Jameson. This would also be an entry way into new accounts, an inexpensive product which also tasted good. They receive the Irish whiskey in bulk and then bottle it at their distillery.

Their Irish Whiskey has been in the market for about three years and they have been aiming for a consistent taste. There is a batch statement on each bottle and the current batch is #9. This Irish Whiskey is made from 100% barley, both malted and unmalted, and has been aged for 3 years and 1 day in ex-Bourbon barrels. With a light amber color, this whiskey had an interesting noses of bananas and citrus, with mild spice notes. On the palate, it was light and creamy, with nutty flavors, some citrus, a light sweetness and mild baking spices. An easy drinking Irish whiskey that is a very good bargain as well In the future, GrandTen hopes to release a higher end Irish Whiskey.

Raj Sabharwal, of PVI Global, is a small importer, generally of family owned and small independent distilleries. I've already written about a couple of their other whiskey products, the Amrut Fusion Single Malt and the English Whiskey Co. Peated Cask Strength.

Black Adder is an independent bottler in Scotland which was established in 1995. Once, pubs in Scotland served whiskey out of the cask, produced by whatever distillery was closest to them. Black Adder wants to hearken back to those days, choosing to bottle only more "natural" whiskey, which hasn't been chill filtered or had anything added to give it color, such as caramel. All of the whiskey he bottles is produced and aged in Scotland.

The Black Adder Black Snake VAT 3 Venom 2 Single Malt (about $80) uses a Solera system from a single malt producer. Started about two years ago, they remove about 2/3 of the whiskey from a barrel and then add new whiskey to refill it. It is either finished in Oloroso Sherry or PX Sherry barrels though this particular whiskey was finished in Oloroso barrels, which it sat in for about a year.  Each time they remove some whiskey from the barrels, they label it as Venom, so this whiskey was removed for the second time. It is bottled at 114 proof and initially, only 60 bottles were available in the U.S. They have created a new vat, specifically for the U.S., so the supply will be increased in the near future. This whiskey was strong and powerful but with an elegance that balanced it. The flavors were intriguing, a melange of white pepper, honey, vanilla, fennel, floral notes, and hints of aged Sherry. Definitely recommended.

Cadenhead is the oldest independent bottler of whiskey in Scotland, established in 1842. The Auchroisk distillery, located in the Speyside, was founded in 1972 and released its first whiskey in 1978. They used to provide bulk whiskey for J&B Scotch and rarely saw their own released but eventually decided they should market more of their own whiskey. The Cadenhead Auchroisk 12 Year Old Single Malt is a single barrel bottled at 59.3% ABV and aged in ex-Bourbon barrels. It possessed a light body, with tropical fruit flavors, some floral notes and a touch of smoke. A pleasant Whiskey.

Stop being prejudiced about whiskey that doesn't come directly from a distillery. Blenders, bottlers and negociants can produce some amazing whiskey and you'll miss out if you ignore them out of your biases.