Rant: Stop Stressing Over Thanksgiving Wines

Every year countless people stress over which wines to pair with their Thanksgiving dinner. They read all the wine articles, which give recommendations of which wines you should drink, though many of those articles are similar year to year. They speak to the staff at their local wine store, who give them recommendations. These people also worry that their holiday might be a failure unless they have the correct wines. The holidays can be stressful enough without having to worry about the wine, especially when those worries are generally needless.

Stop stressing so much about Thanksgiving wines.
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Cast your memory back to last year's Thanksgiving. Can you remember which specific wines you had with dinner? Can you remember the specific wines you had with Thanksgiving dinner two years ago? Doubtful.

I am sure that most people won't be able to remember except maybe in the most general terms. Maybe they recall having had a Pinot Noir or a Riesling but they are unlikely to recall the specific producer or much else about the wine. What they are more likely to remember is the good (at least hopefully it was good) time they had, the family and friends that shared their table. They might remember whether the food and wine was good or bad but the specifics may be foggy.

Do you really need specific Thanksgiving wine recommendations? I don't think so. The more I ponder the question, the more I realize that all you need for Thanksgiving are some good wines, the varietals and/or blends being much less important. As long as they do not blatantly clash with the meal, then they should work and few wines are going to so blatantly clash. Drink wines you'll enjoy and don't worry so much about "perfect pairings."

A Thanksgiving meal is diverse, with many different flavors, from savory to sweet, and many different textures. No single wine is a perfect pairing with all of these different dishes. So you need wines that people will enjoy in of their own right. I don't think too many hosts are seeking the "perfect" wine pairing. They simply want something that people will enjoy and which won't greatly detract from the food.

Plus, who'll remember the wines next year?

We should remember that any wine shared with good friends and family is likely to taste better, or at least seem that way, than one drank alone. The circumstances of the day, the good feelings, the fond memories, the thanks for the past year, will all lead to your wine seeming better. And it is all those urrounding circumstances that people will most remember about Thanksgiving. The wine will always take the back seat.

The wine is simply an extra, not a necessity. It pales in importance to everything else about the holiday. Like the Whos from "The Grinch Who Stole Xmas", there should still be joy even if all of the food and wine have been taken away.

I will probably bring a variety of wines to my Thanksgiving feast, a mix of sparkling wine, white, red and dessert wine. Having a good variety is beneficial, especially as different people have different preferences. In general, I will pick interesting and delicious wines that I feel people will enjoy. I won't spend much time worrying about pairing them with specific dishes and foods. I just want wines that will make people smile, that will enhance the spirit of the day.

Whatever you do for Thanksgiving, enjoy yourself and appreciate all that you have, rather than worry about what you do not.

(This is a revised version of a post from 2016. My basic sentiment has not changed one iota since that time and I felt it was important enough to raise it again.)

Rant: Two Portuguese Wineries, Two Opposing Guides

I've visited numerous wineries, in the U.S., Canada, Europe and South America, and the personality and presentation of the winery representative/guide has a significant effect on how one views that winery. You want a guide who has passion and enthusiasm, who is knowledgeable and personable. Otherwise, you might be disinterested in the winery, maybe even irritated that you're wasting your time. When I recently traveled to Portugal, this issue became front and center in my mind again as I witnessed two dramatically different guide styles.

In general, the guides (for wineries, historical sites, museums, et.c) on my tour of Porto and the Douro were very good, evidencing plenty of passion, enthusiasm, knowledge and personality. As such, my group reacted positively to them, paying attention to what they said, soaking in all of the provided information, and enjoying themselves. These were the types of guides you would recommend to your friends.

One stellar example was Paula Pereira, who works in marketing & public relations for Quinta de Covela. From the opening moments of meeting her, you couldn't help but be enamored with her bubbly enthusiasm, her sincere and infectious passion for Covela. As she led us through a wine tasting, her passion never lagged and she presented us with plenty of information about the estate, the region and the wines. It became a fully enjoyable and informative tour, and we could have easily remained there for hours chatting with Paula. My tour companions all commented on Paula's compelling personality and she was the perfect advocate for Covela.

On the other hand, we visited one of the larger Port lodges and our guide was far from compelling. Though he was certainly knowledge, he seemed to lack enthusiasm and passion. When he spoke, it was rapid-fire and seemed to go on and on, not giving anyone a break to ask questions. And by the time he did stop speaking, you almost felt too exhausted to ask questions. It seemed like it was a chore for him, one he wanted to end as quickly as possible. He wasn't the type of guide who injected passion into the tour attendees, some who seemed quite bored. I was disappointed in this tour, primarily because of the deficiencies of the guide.

In the future, when I look back to my many fond memories of Portugal, I'll definitely think of Paula Pereira and Covela, and I'll likely give little thought to the Port lodge. I strongly suspect my fellow travel companions feel the same way. Wineries, and others, certainly need to carefully consider the nature of their guides, and seek those with great passion and enthusiasm. Those are the guides who will make the greatest impacts on your visitors. Those are the guides who will lead to many recommendations as well as return visitors.

Rant: Should You Drink Port Wine Before, During Or After Dinner?

“Portugal Giving Up Port Making
OPORTO, Portugal (UPI) Portugal’s port wine industry turned sadly today to the task of developing a wine that tastes good served with soda, ice and salted peanuts. After centuries of turning out casks of port wine, the industry's leaders have decided that the jet age prefers almost anything to port, even sherry. "This idea of turning port into a sort of lemonade might seem like a crime of the greatest magnitude,” said Jose Correia de Oliveira, Portugal’s secretary of commerce. One of the biggest headaches the industry has is that port is an after-dinner drink. "It is very difficult for us to persuade the consumer to hold off drinking until after dinner,” Oliveira said."
--Madera Tribune (CA), March 9, 1960

The demise of Port? It was apparently a low time for the Port industry, though it raises an intriguing point concerning how wine may be viewed by the general public. If a wine is perceived only as an after-dinner drink, its consumption will be more limited than other wines that might also be drank as an aperitif or during dinner. In addition, not everyone may want to continue drinking after dinner if they consumed a significant amount of wine before dessert. After dinner wines, including dessert wines, generally remain as niche wines, and may struggle to maintain popularity.

When you think of Port Wine, do you think of it more as an after-dinner drink? Do you think of it as an aperitif too? Do you think of it when considering wine pairings for food (and I'm not referring to dessert courses)? I suspect that most consumers still think of Port as something you drink after dinner, maybe with chocolate, blue cheese or a cigar. Hopefully, that can change and consumers can be more open to drinking Port at other times as well.

Historically, it appears that such a change of view took place in certain spheres, helping to save the Port wine industry from its troubles. Seven years after the above newspaper article, there was an apparent turnaround and people began drinking Port wine as an aperitif, with France in the lead.

"Portugal Wine Usage Grows
NEW YORK (UPl)—More than 9 million gallons of port wine from Portugal were consumed throughout the world in 1966. and port, once considered solely as a dessert wine, is gaining popularity as an aperitif, reports a producer of port wines from Oporto. France is leading Europe in making port wine a fashionable aperitif, according to Sandemann Brothers. The firm estimates three-fifths of its world port sales now are for consumption as a before-dinner drink."
--Desert Sun (CA), September 26, 1967

In the U.S., Port wine seems to still be more of an after-dinner drink. And that is probably a significant reason why it is such a niche beverage, despite its recent slight increase in consumption. We need to educate people that Port is appropriate throughout the course of a dinner, from aperitif to after dinner. We need to show people that Port can be paired with a variety of dishes throughout the course of a mult-course dinner. That is more difficult as few restaurants host wine dinners that pair Port throughout the courses of a meal. Back in 2012, Legal Sea Foods hosted such a dinner and it was an enlightening experience. We need more restaurants to take this step, to help make it seem more normal to pair Port with dinner.

These issues plague other wine as well, from Sherry to Champagne, though you'll find more wine dinners featuring those two wines paired throughout the meal. Too many people think all Sherry is sweet, so it too is often seen as an after-dinner drink. However, local Spanish restaurants, and especially Taberna de Haro, have been educating consumers about Sherry, showing them that most Sherry is actually dry and pairs well with a wide variety of foods. Champagne is more often seen as a celebratory wine, and not something you pair with dinner, yet that too is slowly changing. The key to all of these niche wines is that they do not possess a single specific taste profile, but rather possess much diversity, and that diversity makes them more food friendly.

When I travel to Porto and the Douro region in two weeks, I'll be especially interested in gaining more information on Port and food pairings, which I'll share with my readers. However, I will call on my readers to be more open minded about these niche wines, and to experiment with food pairings. Don't see these wines as single-occasion wines, but rather see their versatility.

Port wine for breakfast, anyone?

Rant: Boston Needs A Georgian Restaurant!

The country of Georgia may be the birthplace of wine, with evidence stretching back about 8,000 years, which is why Georgians sometimes state they have 8,000 vintages of history. Georgia is located at the crossroads of Western Asia and Eastern Europe, in the Southern Caucasus mountain range, which forms the northern border of the country. It is bordered on the west coast by the Black Sea, by Russia to the north and Turkey & Armenia to the south, with Azerbaijan to the south and east.

When Georgians drink, they eat, rarely drinking on its own. Sometimes they engage in the supra, a traditional formal feast that features near endless food and a vastness of wine. And the various regions of Georgia each have their own food specialties, plenty of diversity in this fascinating region. Georgian wines have started making inroads into the U.S., and you can find a number of them in the Boston area.

However, we need a Georgian restaurant in the Boston area! None currently exists, though other cities, from New York to Washington, D.C., have such restaurants.

It may seem strange that I'm calling for a Georgian restaurant in Boston when I've actually never been to one or eaten Georgian cuisine. However, I'm a passionate advocate of Georgian wines, having tasted well over 100 different ones, and have written 16 articles about Georgian wines. Check out All About Georgian Wine which collects the links to those articles.

Georgians always drink wine with food so their wine is produced specifically to be accompanied by food. And based on the quality and diversity of their wines, it seems logical that their cuisine must be equally as compelling. I've read multiple articles about their cuisine and they have enticed my palate, made me yearn to dine upon many of their dishes.

For example, Khachapuri, Georgian cheese bread, is considered an essential element of the supra, as well as an everyday food item too. There are over over 50 different varieties of khachapuri, made with various fillings. The Adjaruli Khachapuri, a type of molten cheese bread, originated in the seaside region of Adjara and has become hugely popular in New York City according to NY Eater. All you have to do is look at the various photos of this dish and you'll probably start salivating. Who wouldn't love Georgian cheese bread?

Check out this intriguing map of the top dishes from each region of Georgia, and you'll see plenty of enticing photos at that site as well. You can look at Mtsvadi, Georgian barbeque that is made with pork, mutton or veal, often marinated in pomegranate juice. Khinkali, a Georgian dumpling, is often made with mixed pork and beef, though sometimes also with lamb. Shkmeruli is a dish of fried chicken in a creamy garlic sauce. The list just goes on and on with one alluring dish after another. The Georgian Journal also has numerous articles and recipes about Georgian cuisine.

Spend just ten minutes reading about Georgian cuisine, and perusing photos of their foods, and you'll probably become a convert as well, desirous of a Georgian restaurant in the Boston area. This is an excellent opportunity for someone to bring a unique, new restaurant to the area. Who will step forward and be a pioneer, an advocate for Georgian cuisine? We really need Khachapuri!

Rant: Celebrating Restaurant Workers

Today is Labor Day, a national holiday "dedicated to the social and economic achievements of American workers." It is celebrated on the first Monday every September and is often seen as the unofficial end of Summer. For many people, it is a time for parties and BBQs, eating and drinking. Some may go away for the long weekend, maybe to spend the last weekend at the beach, while others may simply visit a friend or family member's home for a celebration. Not much thought seems to go into the meaning behind this national observance.

Today, I'm hoping that everyone takes at least a little time to think about the underlying meaning of this holiday, and to give thought and thanks to the many good people involved in the local food service industry. Servers, bus persons, cooks, dishwashers, bartenders, hosts/hostesses and more. They work hard to bring you pleasure, to provide you delicious food and drink and to satisfy your cravings and urges. They deserve our gratitude and recognition for all their hard work.

The honor these workers, you should dine out more often, patronizing the excellent restaurants in the local area. Each month, numerous restaurants must close, many due to financial reasons, and if you want your favorite restaurants to survive, you need to dine there more often. Give them your continual support!

When you dine at these restaurants, make sure to tip properly as many of these workers greatly depend on your tips. The issue of tips has garnered lots of press lately, with heated discussions over what is proper, whether restaurants should go tipless, and much more. Patrick Maguire, of I'm Your Server Not Your Servant, has written a number of articles about the issues surrounding tips, providing thoughtful discussion. The main point to remember is that you should tip fairly, and you really need to stop and think about what is fair.

In addition, consumers need to understand about efforts to help the back of the house staff, such as the administrative/hospitality fees used at restaurants like Ledger, Tres Gatos, Casa Verde, Little Dipper Cafe, Brassica Kitchen, and others. This is a small fee, often only 3%, which helps the non-tipped staff who work in the kitchen, behind the scenes, often toiling for long hours to ensure your food is delicious. Some diners bristle at the idea of this tiny fee, though they probably don't understand the rationale behind it.

Finally, when you dine out, please treat all of the restaurant workers with respect and courtesy. Being civil and polite should be a given, but sadly that isn't always the case. Treat restaurant workers in the same manner in which you would want to be treated. We rarely talk about the responsibilities of diners but maybe that should change. Being respectful and courteous while dining out should be a responsibility. If you don't think so, then I suggest you should stay home.

Don't just eat, drink and celebrate today. Please, also give some thought to the meaning of the day, recognizing all the service people who make your life better.

Rant: When Labor Day Arrives, Don't Stop Drinking Rosé

Labor Day weekend nears and for many, this is a signal of the end of summer. As such, you'll stop seeing media advertisements for Rosé wine. Wine distributors will generally stop recommending Rosé to their accounts. Many wine shops will stop carrying Rosé until the springtime. This is all part and parcel of the myth that Rosé is a "summer wine." The reality is that Rosé can and should be consumed year-round, no matter what the season.

It's interesting that many of the individuals responsible for promoting this Rosé myth actually know better. They understand the truth, that there is absolutely no reason you should stop drinking Rosé just because fall arrives. Rosé is appropriate year-round, especially because it pairs so well with a diverse selection of foods. For example, it works very well with Thanksgiving dinner. If you can drink white wine in the fall and winter, there is absolutely no reason you cannot drink Rosé too. I drink Rosé all year round and strongly encourage everyone else to do so as well.

The situation has slowly improved during the last several years but significant change is still needed. There are some wine stores which stock Rosé throughout the year and if your local shop doesn't, then you should recommend that they stock some. And if they don't bring in some Rosé, then seek elsewhere for this wine. Share some Rosé this fall and winter with your friends, showing them the potential of this delicious wine. Don't ask if they want Rosé but just pour them a glass. Once they taste the wine, they'll probably come to the realization of what they have been missing.

We also need more wine writers to pen Rosé articles during the fall and winter, to persuade consumers that this pink wine is appropriate during every season, and not just during the summer. Raising consumer awareness is vital to spreading a passion for Rosé year round. We need to correct their vinous myth.

Drink more Rosé, now and throughout the fall, winter and spring.

Rant: Beauty, Wine & The Beast

"Wine is, at its best, an agent of beauty, and the writer does well to engage with it on that level."
--What Makes A Wine Worth Drinking by Terry Theise

I've begun reading an advance copy of Terry Theise's new book, which is due out in November. The Introduction, which many people commonly skip when reading a book, is a fascinating read, full of intriguing ideas and poetic language. The above quote is in the introduction, and I suspect it will be elaborated further within the book. However, it is a concept which Theise touched on in his prior book, and which others have advanced as well.

The quote brought to mind one of my old posts too, which dealt with beauty, and I felt it was warranted to bring it back as the ideas are timeless and worthy of reflection. What are your thoughts on beauty and wine?

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Everything has beauty, but not everyone sees it.
--Confucius

The tale of Beauty and the Beast is well known, and its theme and basic framework have been used many times, in books, movies, television shows, plays and more. It teaches us to look past the shallow surface, to find the beauty within, and it would not have had such an impact if beauty were not an important value. There is probably not a single human culture which does not possess a concept of beauty, though what they consider to fit their definition of beauty can vary widely. In the end, it boils down to cherishing what we find to be aesthetically pleasing.

Beauty, of whatever kind, invariably excites the human soul to tears.
--Edgar Allan Poe

The appreciation for beauty often seems to get lost in discussions of food and wine, though its importance there should not be underestimated. I am talking about beauty in all its aspects, not solely the visual, which can touch any of our senses. And I am not discussing any particular definition of beauty either, but merely the aesthetic concept which can encompass all of the diverse definitions. We need to embrace beauty, to praise it, to savor it, to share it.

Beauty in things lies in the mind which contemplates them.
--David Hume

Last week, I mentioned Ernesto Catena who possesses a Japanese aesthetic, which influenced the creation of his Alma Negra winery. An appreciation of beauty is one of his primary motivations, and his passion for that beauty is infectious. He relishes the beauty of nature, of simplicity, of balance. Fred Minnick, a friend of mine, is an accomplished photographer, often taking wine and food related pictures. He has an excellent sense of aesthetics, drawing out the beauty of his subjects, whether they are people or inanimate objects. Even the most grotesque of subjects can be transformed into a beauty through a skilled photographer's eye. Terry Theise, wine importer and author, wrote Reading Between the Wines, which contains many beautiful phrases and sentences, showcasing the aesthetics of language.  

A thing of beauty is a joy forever.
--John Keats

Writers understand the beauty of language, and how a special turn of phrase can elevate a story to another level of aesthetic appreciation. A wine bottle may possess an ugly label, yet the wine within might be indescribably beautiful, a sublime sensory pleasure. A plate of food which is presented beautifully will often seem to taste better than a messy, unappealing looking plate. It is often said we eat through our eyes, and there is some truth to that. There is no endeavor where beauty does not play some role, and we should endeavor to cherish beauty where ever we encounter it.

Those who contemplate the beauty of the earth find reserves of strength that will endure as long as life lasts.
--Rachel Carson

To that end, I would like to see more food and wine writers embrace the beauty, in what they experience as well as how they present themselves. Let your writing highlight beauty while you also attempt to make your words beautiful. Eaters and drinkers, don't just swallow and guzzle, but take time to appreciate the beauty of what is on your plate and in your glass. Take time to allow your senses to properly savor everything. Beauty elevates our experiences so we should be eager to seek it out.

Beauty awakens the soul to act.
--Dante Alighieri

Rant: Making Hospitality Better With A Japanese Proverb

Servers, consider this hypothetical: You have been asked to serve a once-in-a-lifetime table of customers. How would your service differ in this experience over your usual service?

Take some time to ponder your answer. Be honest with your answer. You aren't giving a public response so there is no need to put up a front.

Now, if you answered that your service might be better, more extensive, more accommodating, more personable, or something similar, then maybe you need to change your mindset concerning service. Maybe you need to learn some Japanese.

Ichigo ichie is a Japanese proverb that can be literally translated as “one time, one meeting,” or more loosely translated as "one chance in a lifetime" or "never again." The underlying meaning of the proverb is that you need to cherish every encounter in your life as if it will never be experienced again, as if it were a once-in-a-lifetime event. Even if you meet the same people at multiple encounters, each of those encounters is unique in its own way, and you never know if that meeting will be the last one.

This proverb is a central component of Japanese hospitality, also known as Omotenashi. I'm not going to go into depth on the concept of omotenashi in this post, but will concentrate on ichigo ichie. Japanese servers cherish the moment with each guest, understanding this might be their only encounter with this person so they want to present their best face and give their best service. You give your all, for every guest, at all times. You don't adjust your service as to whether you feel someone is a big tipper or not.

This is far from an easy concept to enact, especially considering what we are taught in our American culture. In addition, for this concept to best work, customers need to embrace it as well. They need to accept each restaurant visit as something unique, a once in a lifetime meal. There needs to be a mutual respect between customer and server. The customer needs to strive to be the best they can be as well. And it might be far easier to get servers to change than customers. How many customers are going to be open to lessons in how they can be a better customer?

Let this be a starting point for further discussion. The Japanese certainly have fascinating thoughts on hospitality and maybe they can be adapted for the U.S. hospitality industry. Or maybe the U.S. isn't ready for such a change.

Rant: Restaurant Success & Failure

What is the secret to restaurant success?

Recently, Taberna de Haro celebrated their 20th Anniversary, a huge milestone, and during those years it has earned numerous raves and accolades. Though there have been some changes to the restaurant over the years, it has remained true to its original concept, serving Spanish food and wine. Taberna has the best Spanish wine list in the Boston+ area, and maybe even all of New England, and also they also offer a large list of Sherries, again more than any other restaurant in the area. I know that if I am in the area, I usually stop there.

On the other hand, Les Sablons, in Harvard Square, has closed, after only about one year in business.  The restaurant was owned by the same team that owns the successful Island Creek Oyster Bars and Row 34. Les Sablons received much acclaim and accolades, for both its cuisine and wine list. It would have seemed to have a bright future so its sudden closure is puzzling, and the owners have not publicly released any reasons for that closure. Why did it fail? We might never know the exact reasons.

Two well acclaimed restaurants. Why does one last for 20 years while the other lasts only 1?

I certainly don't have the answers, and I'm not sure anyone else does either. If the answers were that easy, then far less restaurants would close after a relatively short time. There are certainly though some known factors which contribute to a restaurant's success. At the most basic, a restaurant needs a sufficient number of customers and that would seem obvious. However, how do you bring in those customers? A good location is important, an area that might have good foot traffic, or where the restaurant is easily visible by those driving in the area. Customers need to know of a restaurant's existence, and some places can be open for years but some people still don't know anything about it.

Social media has a role too, helping to alert potential customers to the restaurant's existence, and providing reasons why customers should go there. That includes not just posting on social media but also interacting with potential customers, sharing their reviews, addressing their concerns, and being seen as a place that cares. It can also be as easy as having a restaurant website that clearly lists your hours. This weekend, I went to the website of a local pizza shop and their hours weren't listed. I placed an online order and didn't learn until almost an hour later, that the restaurant was closed all day. A major fail not to have their hours listed, and to allow me to order online despite their being closed.

Owning a restaurant isn't easy. It is more than just being a good chef. You need excellent business skills too, juggling your costs against your income, acquiring and managing your staff, dealing with landlords and investors, and much more. Many close within the first three years of operation. You would almost have to be a masochist to open a restaurant.

If you are a customer and love a restaurant, then please support them in whatever manner you can. Spread the word, telling your friends and family, telling strangers that want to know where to dine. Dine there as often as you can. Tip well. Try to understand restaurant costs and why they might need to raise their prices to stay in business. Even your favorite restaurant might close so do what you can to help them survive.

Rant: Can Chefs/Restaurant Owners Afford To Speak Out?

Within the last few years, social media has become seemingly dominated by the discussion of political and social issues. There are some chefs/restaurant owners who have been vociferously vocal about such matters while others have remained mostly silent. And other chefs/restaurant owners fall somewhere with this range. Chefs/restaurant owners who speak out risk losing potential customers who are offended by what is said. With the razor-thin margins that most restaurants operate under, can chefs/restaurant owners afford to lose a percentage of their customer base?

If you offend 10%, 20% or even more of your potential customer base, how will that affect your bottomline? The simple math would seem to indicate it could be a serious problem. Can you count on your supporters making up for your lost business by dining at your restaurant more frequently? Restaurant costs have been increasing so is now really the proper time to offend potential customers and turn away their business?

Every time a chef/restaurant owner speaks out on a political or social issue, they risk losing some customers. It is a complicated matter though, and much depends on exactly what is said, what isn't said, and how it is said. Some positions are relatively noncontroversial. The more inflammatory the language you use, the greater the risk. If you denigrate and insult those who possess an opposing viewpoint, your risk increases even more. You could even end up offending those who might agree with your basic position, but dislike how you present your views.

Even if a chef/restaurant owner remains largely silent about their political and social views, some people will be upset, thinking they should speak out on certain issues. It can be a no-win situation, where you risk losing potential customers whether you speak or remain silent. It is no longer sufficient to simply provide good food, drink and service. Now, a number of customers want to judge you based on your political and social positions.

Chefs/restaurant owners need to very carefully consider what they say, and don't say, on social media.   Before you post, or choose not to post, take time to consider how that might reflect on your business. Are you willing to risk losing customers over what you say or don't say? Is there a better way to say what you want to say, which won't be as offensive but will still depict your position? Remember that your words, or silence, could ultimately affect everyone who works for you.

Rant: Beets, Dirt & Enjoyment

Beets are a polarizing vegetable, with a significant number of people hating them, believing that they taste primarily like dirt. There are plenty of others though that love beets, specifically seeking them out on restaurant menus or at the grocery store. Beets are especially healthy and nutritious, making them a great choice for your diet. If you can only get past them tasting like dirt.

It's probably not a surprise that I'm not a fan of beets. Yes, I believe they taste like dirt, and not in a good way. I enjoy earthiness in my wines, but I feel there is a different type of earthiness in beets, one that doesn't appeal to my palate. I don't enjoy beet salads, no matter what other ingredients are included in such a salad. And I'm definitely not alone in my opinion of beets.

Could a chef find a way to get me to enjoy beets? The possibility exists, no matter how remote. Then, last week, that possibility became a reality.

While dining at Committee, a Greek restaurant in the Fan Pier region, they always provide you with a complimentary meze, usually a special Dip of the Day with warm pita slices. Their Sun Dried Tomato & Feta Dip has long been one of my favorites. Last week, their complimentary meze was a Beet & Garlic dip, and I winced a little when it was brought to the table. I assumed I wouldn't enjoy it because it was made with beets. Dirt-tasting beets!

However, I made the effort to taste it, to open my mind to the possibility that maybe I would like it. I did have high expectations but there were reasons to hold out a tiny bit of hope. First, I know the talent that Committee has in the kitchen, the culinary skills that transform ingredients into delicious and interesting dishes. As I've long said, a great chef can make me eat just about anything. Second, I wanted to be open, to be willing to at least try something new and different. I've often encouraged my readers to do the same, to be willing to eat or drink new things, to broaden their palates.

So, I slathered some of the beet & garlic dip upon a slice of pita, and took a tentative bite. And then another, and then another. It actually was tasty, with more of an earthiness rather than a dirt taste. It was enhanced by the garlic, and there was even a hint of sweetness to the dip. I was enjoying something made with beets! I ate and savored a good portion of the dip, and have to give kudos to the Chef and kitchen staff at Committee for creating such a tasty little dish.

When you go out to eat and drink, take chances. You never know where they might lead.

Rant: Snickerdoodle, The Best Cookie In The World!

What is the Best Cookie in the world? It has to be the Snickerdoodle. And no matter what contender you wish to put forth, it will lose. Snickerdoodles reign supreme!

Well, that is all actually hyperbole. I couldn't say what was the Best Cookie unless I had tasted all of the possible options. And in this matter, "Best" is really a subjective term. How do you compare different cookies to determine which is better? There are no objective guidelines and it all comes down to personal preference. The same applies to all foods, so I'm not a huge fan of "Best" compilations because they don't really judge what they say they do. Such lists are based on the personal preferences and biases of those who compose the lists.

However, I am a big fan of Snickerdoodles. The origins of this cookie are ambiguous, with some believing it has a German or Dutch origin, and others believing it originated in New England. It is alleged that the oldest known recipes date back to New England in 1889. In The Home-Maker, Vol.2, April to September 1889, an illustrated monthly magazine edited by Marion Harland, there is a section labeled "Choice Recipes" and you'll find a Snickerdoodles recipe. The ingredients include 2 eggs, 1/2 cup of butter, 2 cups of sugar, 1 cup of milk, 3 cups of flour, 2 teaspoonfuls cream tartar, 1 teaspoonful soda, and 1/2 teaspoonful of salt.

I also found a 1891 reference in the Morning Journal and Courier (Connecticut), August 28, 1891. It provided a recipe for Snickerdoodles that included the following ingredients: 1/2 cup butter, 2 cups sugar, 2 eggs, 1 cup milk, 3 cups flour, 1/4 teaspoon salt, 2 level teaspoons baking powder, 1 teaspoon cinnamon, and 3 teaspoons powdered sugar. Note that this recipe didn't include cream of tartar. The Plymouth Tribune (Indiana), November 28, 1901 provided another recipe, but it did include cream of tartar. The article also stated, "Snickerdoodles is the somewhat fantastic name of quickly made little cakes especially dear to the children's heart."

The use of cream of tartar helps to differentiate the Snickerdoodle from a basic Sugar cookie. This ingredient helps make the Snickerdoodle more chewy, rather than crunchy like most Sugar cookies. In addition, it provides a certain tangy flavor to the Snickerdoodle.

Locally, my favorite Snickerdoodles are made by the Quebrada Baking Co., with locations in Arlington, Belmont and Wellesley. I've tasted them from all three locations and they have been of equal quality. Their Snickerdoodles have a slightly crunchy perimeter with a soft and chewy interior., and just a perfect dusting of sugar and cinnamon on top. Each bite of such a cookie is pure bliss to me. I enjoyed some last week as my travels took me to Belmont.

So, Snickerdoodles might not be the Best cookie in the world, but they are certainly one of the best. And I highly recommend you check out the Snickerdoodles at Quebrada to sample what I think are the best I've ever tasted. Have you tasted their Snickerdoodles? If so, what do you think?

Rant: Explore The Different, Don't Drink The Same

Last week, I attended the 2018 Vini d’Italia Experience, an Italian wine tasting event organized by the Gambero Rosso, a media company that produces a famous annual guide to Italian wines. The 31st edition of the Vini d’Italia "... is the result of a year of work by an expert team of 53 tasters who have travelled the country (including Switzerland’s Canton Ticino starting this year) visiting wineries, interviewing producers and tasting 45,000 wines. The book reviews 2,485 wineries and a total of 22,000 wines, noting wines of distinction with bicchieri (glasses). This year, just 436 Tre Bicchieri have emerged -- fewer than 1 percent of the wines tasted."

At the tasting event, which was held in Boston for the first time ever, there were 45 Italian wineries, offering about 125 wines for sampling. When you encounter so many wines at a tasting event, how do select which wines to taste? You probably can't taste them all so you need a game plan, an idea of which wines you will select and which wines you won't. This is a dilemma faced by both consumers and the trade at large wine tasting events. Hard decisions must be made.

Unfortunately, some people choose to sample the familiar, to taste what they know. At such an Italian tasting, they might stick to Pinot Grigio, Prosecco, and Chianti. They learn little from their experience, wasting the opportunity to expand their palates. They could drink those familiar wines at any time, almost anywhere. They might be their favorites, but that doesn't mean they couldn't acquire a new favorite. Only if they took a risk and tried something different.

Though there are over 10,000 known wine grapes, it is thought that there are only about 1400 or so in commercial production. I've probably tasted at least 400 different grapes, and I'm always seeking to add to that list. At the Vini d’Italia event, I found five wines with grapes that were new to me, quite a find. I tasted each of those wines because I want to expand my palate, to taste as many new wines as possible. I want to explore all the vinous world has to offer.

Of those unique grapes I tasted, most of them were produced by only a handful of Italian wineries, and in one case, by a single winery. Many of them were seeking importers, meaning the wines might not be available locally any time soon, if at all. This was a rare opportunity to experience these  grapes and if you failed to avail yourself of the chance to taste these wines, you lost out. And as these were also delicious and intriguing wines, you lost out even more.

Stop just drinking the familiar. Doesn't it get boring? Do you eat the same old things all the time, never venturing out of your comfort zone to try something different? Be vinous adventurous and seek out new and different wines, broadening your horizons. The world of wine is much larger than Moscato and Sauvignon Blanc.

Rant: A Flawed Greek Festival

Where's the Greek wines?

Yesterday, I visited a local Greek festival, interested to check out their Greek cuisine and wines. There were gyros and souvlaki, pastitsio and moussaka, loukoumades and baklava. A smorgasbord of Greek cuisine offerings. However, there were a just few wines displayed, and only one of them was Greek, an Agioritiko, the others being from California. Not displayed, though offered on their drinks menu, was a Retsina too.

Why would you offer California wines at a Greek festival???

The festival was intended to showcase and celebrate Greek culture, and I believe that should extend to the wines they offer as well. There is no reason why they couldn't offer only Greek wines at the festival. There are plenty of inexpensive, but tasty, Greek wines available if cost was an issue. And the attendees, many who are Greek, aren't there to enjoy a taste of California. They are there for a taste of Greece. As was I.

I've long been a passionate advocate for Greek wines, having written over 25 articles, and you can find links to all of those posts in All About Greek Wines & Spirits. There are so many reasons why you should drink Greek wines and we need to expose more consumers to the wonders of those wines. So, at a Greek festival, which is open to the public, it would be an excellent opportunity to showcase the intriguing wines of Greece rather than the wines of California. It could have been a teaching moment, to share the tastes of Greece, their unique indigenous grapes.

This would also apply to any other cultural festival, where they should be proud to offer only the drinks of their country or region. Whether the festival was Italian or Spanish, German or Chilean, there isn't a need to sell California wines when all of those regions produce an ample supply of delicious wines that reflect their heritage.

It is a simple thing, for a cultural festival to embrace their wines. A Greek festival should offer only Greek wines. Let's hope future festivals better understand this easy concept.

Rant: Don't Roast Your Wines

Would you lock your child or pet in a hot car with the windows rolled up?

I think not, as well as I seriously hope not. You understand the great danger involved in locking something precious in a confined area subject to great heat. The interior of a car can get even hotter than the temperature outside that car. Even with the windows opened a small bit, the interior of a car can still get stifling hot. However, most people confine their safety concerns to children and pets, forgetting that other items inside your car can be harmed as well.

As June begins, summer weather has already appeared, with some insanely humid days. This summer, you'll likely make plans to travel whether it is someplace local or some place that might be hundreds of miles away. You might visit a winery or farm, a specialty food shop or a distillery. At those places, you may purchase some food and drink to take home with you. For example, you might pick up several bottles of wine from a winery or a pound of cheese from that small farm. You'll then toss those items in your trunk, often forgetting that during the summer, the inside of the trunk can become a small inferno.

That heat can destroy the food and drink you want to take home with you. You might end up with a melted glob of cheese and ruined bottles of wine. You might as well have thrown away your money. And you could have prevented this tragedy quite easily with a little advance preparation.

To remedy this situation, before you leave on your travel adventure, you need to place some type of cooler, insulated bag, box or similar container in your trunk. You might also take ice packs or wait to buy ice when you get to your destination. Make sure the insulated container is larger enough to carry the usual amount of food and drink items you purchase when you are on vacation. This will prevent your purchases from being injured or even dying from the heat.

You probably should also bring a box of large ziplock bags with you, to repackage your foodstuffs when they are sitting in your insulated containers, especially if there's ice in those containers. The ziplock bags will protect the food packaging from the ice and if the foods accidentally melt, break or ooze out, they won't ruin the rest of your food.

Don't lock your wine and food in a hot car without protecting them from the heat.

Rant: A 100 Point Sake? More Stinkin' Scores From Wine Advocate

NO!!!!!

The Wine Advocate is back at it, scoring Sakes, and their newest article is moving toward the worst elements of the wine scoring system. I continue to vehemently disagree that such scores are helpful in promoting Sake and have seen no evidence that the Wine Advocate's articles have helped the Sake industry. Even the Wine Advocate readers rarely discuss Sake on their forums and there haven't been any posts about their new Sake article and reviews. This new article is their first Sake-related item of 2018.

I've ranted about this issue numerous times, as far back as 2013, and you can check out the progression of my previous posts: Rant: Sake Don't Need No Stinkin' Scores!, Rant: Sake Still Don't Need No Stinkin' Scores!, Update: Sake Still Don't Need No Stinkin' Scores! and Ugh! More Stinkin' Scores For Sake From Wine Advocate. 

In the newest issue of the Wine Advocate (April 2018, #236), Liwen Hao, their Asian Wine Reviewer, once again wrote a brief article about Sake as well as reviewing 24 Sakes. Generally, I've enjoyed Hao's prior Sake articles, which have usually been informative, but this issue's article disturbed me. It begins with an exchange about the search for a 100 point Sake and Liwen writes, “The image of a perfect sake is getting clearer,” I explained, “and I’m sure it’s there somewhere, waiting for me.”

Perfect for who? Perfect just for Hao's palate, or does he have some "objective" standard for evaluating what would be a perfect Sake? Would another reviewer also agree if Hao scored a Sake with a perfect 100 points? Is that the purpose of all of Hao's Sake reviews, to find a "perfect Sake?" Are general consumers seeking a "perfect Sake?" Would Hao's time be better spent addressing different aspects of Sake? Yes, there are so many better topics Hao could address rather than a search for a 100 point Sake.

In his latest Sake reviews, Hao awards two Sakes his highest score yet, 99 points, besting his previous high of 98 points. The Asahi Shuzo Dassai Migaki Sonosakie Junmai Daiginjo (about $750) and the Takagi Shuzo Juyondai Ryusen Junmai Daiginjo (about $4500) both scored 99 points. Based on those prices, the average consumer will probably never get to taste either Sake. Such reviews are catering more to the wealthy, who'll probably buy up all of the available bottles to display as trophies in their cellars. Such reviews won't cause more average consumers to try Sake for the first time, and might even turn them away.

The rest of Hao's article discussed how he and some friends decided to sample some of the most expensive Sake bottles available, which is how those selections ended up on his list of reviews. And they intend to drink more of the pricey Juyondai Sakes later this year, which could eventually lead to the "100 point" Sake. Why does that have to be their objective? It might be a checkmark off Hao's bucket list, but does it do a service to the readers of Wine Advocate? Does it do a service to the Sake industry?

As I've said before, Sake articles and reviews are great, but we don't need scores. Such scores cause more harm than good and tend to turn away more consumers than they attract. The Wine Advocate does a disservice to the Sake industry, appealing primarily to the wealthy who want trophy Sakes. It doesn't have to be that way. And it shouldn't be that way.

Sake Don't Need No Stinkin' Scores!

Rant: Stop Neglecting Sherry

"There are only two kinds of sherry, the good and the better."
--Jerez saying

What is one of the tastiest, most intriguing, and unique wines that you are probably not drinking? It is most likely Sherry, a fascinating fortified wine from a small region of southern Spain.

As a long-term lover and fervent advocate of Sherry, I enjoy taking the opportunity, to spread my passion for this wine, to intrigue others to give it a try. Sherry remains a niche beverage in the U.S., and most of the Sherry imported into the U.S. is sweet. As such, many Americans have not encountered the myriad joys of dry Sherry. Even many wine lovers have little experience with dry Sherry. It is dry Sherry which is enjoyed the most in Spain, and there must be a very good reason for that fact. And due to reasons I'll explain in the near future, Sherry has been especially on my mind.

Sadly, Sherry sales have been on a decline in recent years but predications indicate it may be making a comeback. The IWSR, in their 2016-2021 Forecast Report, predicts that volume sales of premium Sherry will grow by 18%. As I've written in my history of Sherry, it is a cyclic wine, which has numerous ups and downs, and has always founds a way back up. So, I can easily understand why Sherry consumption could be on an upward swing.

Sherry education is essential to the promotion of Sherry consumption, to get more Americans exploring this intriguing fortified wine. Here are some items that hopefully will motivate you to discover more about Sherry.

• The Sherry region has a lengthy, fascinating history, extending back a few thousand years and may even the source of the Atlantis legend. 
• Palomino, the primary grape of Sherry, may have been planted by the ancient Phoenicians. Every sip of Sherry is a taste of history.
• Sherry may have been the first wine brought to the New World.
• The Mayflower, before it sailed to the New World by the Puritans, was used to transport Sherry.
• Aged Sherry is one of the best values in the wine world. You could buy 50 year old Sherry for $50-$100, far cheaper than almost any other aged wine on the market. 
• Francois Chartier, who has written on the science of food and wine pairings, states that Fino Sherry is the King of Food Pairings.
• A Sherry Bodega is radically different from the average wine cellar, helping to make Sherry possess its distinctive nature.
• Here are 10 Things you should know about Sherry.
• And here are 5 More Things you should know about Sherry.

Locally, Sherry is starting to get a little more visibility, albeit more in the form of Sherry cocktails. I enjoy such cocktails, but I would like to see more people enjoying Sherry on its own too. If you enjoy the flavors of Sherry in cocktails, then why not try the flavors on their own, without other flavors clouding the issue. Try a Fino or Manzanilla, an Amontillado or Oloroso. Or maybe even a Palo Cortado. And then you can move onto some Sherry variations such as En Rama.

The best place to enjoy Sherry is at Taberna de Haro in Brookline, which has over 60 Sherries on their list. Order a few tapas and get a flight of Sherries to compare and contrast. Chef/owner Deborah Hansen always has so many excellent and unique Sherries on her list. Whenever I drive by the restaurant, I nearly always have to stop for a glass of Sherry. Another restaurant with an excellent Sherry list is Tres Gatos, where you also can find some intriguing Sherries.

Stop missing out on the wonders of Sherry. Take a chance and order a couple dry Sherries, to taste something new. You can thank me later when you find a new favorite.

Rant: Time To Quit Writing

If you have a food and/or drinks blog, or you write in another medium, maybe it is time to quit your writing. As you ponder that matter, you should ask yourself a few questions. Do you still possess a passion for your subject matter? Do you still learn new things about your subject matter on a regular basis? Do you still approach your subject matter with a sense of wonder? Does the act of writing still feel more like pleasure than work?

These are all questions I've been considering recently as I approach my blog's anniversary. On Wednesday, May 9, I'll reach The Passionate Foodie's 11th Anniversary, and I've actually been writing about food and wine for 12 1/2 years. That's an extremely long time to be blogging, and I've seen many other bloggers come and go during that period. What is the secret to my longevity, if there is even a secret to it?

To me, the secret is that I still possess a sense of wonder and passion about food and drink. I am still eager to learn more all the time. Even after over 12 years of writing, I understand that I know only a fraction of what is out there. That is part of the reason why I never specialized with my blog, as I wanted to be able to explore all aspects of food and drink. I didn't want to be confined to a specific type of food or drink. In general, writing to me isn't work, though of course there are a few days here and there when it might seem a chore.

I was thrilled the other day when I found some Turkish wines at a store in Watertown. I still get excited when I find a $10-$15 bottle of wine that over delivers for its price point. A new Greek-Mexican menu at Committee sparked my interest. An Uruguayan restaurant thoroughly impressed me. I'm still not jaded about food and drink. I still find plenty to fire my passions.

I sometimes read other food and/or drink blogs and occasionally I see such a lack of passion within them. They present very little, if any, information of value and it seems clear the writer hasn't learned anything new. It is like they are simply going through the motions, for whatever their reasons. If you're bored reading their writing, then they were probably bored when they wrote it. Those writers should simply quit, shut down their blogs, and do something else, something which fuels their inner passion.

Ask yourself the questions I posed in the first paragraph and be honest with yourself. Maybe it is time for you to quit writing. Just find something else to do, something which brings you more pleasure.

Rant: Seafood Ain't Cheap, Suck It Up

I've often heard people complain that seafood is too expensive, and that they consider it a luxury. Research has shown that when general grocery prices rise, consumers often will purchase less seafood, considering it an easy sacrifice. It is mainly during some holidays where consumers might be willing to splurge on expensive seafood. But, consumers have some misconceptions in this area, and should view seafood more as a necessity rather than a luxury.

As I've mentioned before, according to the Centers for Disease Control & Prevention (CDC), the leading cause of death in the U.S. is heart disease, killing over 614,000 people each year, comprising about 1 in 4 deaths. That is a staggering statistic and should make all of us concerned about our own health risk. It may not gain as much publicity as other causes of death but it is one which is most likely to touch all of us is some way. I'm sure we all have had family and friends who have died from heart disease, and we should be doing what we can to reduce our own chances of acquiring heart disease.

Seafood consumption is a significant key to reducing your chances of heart disease. Since the 1970s, over 20,000 research studies have been conducted on the health benefits of seafood and they have concluded that eating seafood twice a week can reduce your chance of dying from heart disease by about 36%. You won't find another single food that has been scientifically proven to reduce heart disease so much. Low seafood consumption is blamed for approximately 84,000 deaths in the U.S. and 1.4 million globally. Besides helping to reduce heart disease, research has also been providing growing evidence of the health benefits to the brain and bones as well as against cancers and inflammatory diseases. Eating more seafood is such a simple change to your lifestyle and it can bring so many health benefits.

The scientific community advises people that they should eat seafood twice a week, an annual consumption of 26 pounds of seafood. However, most Americans significantly fail to meet this standard. In the last 18 years, the highest annual seafood consumption was in 2005 with 16.6 pounds, dropping to a low of 14.4 pounds in 2012. In 2014, there was a tiny increase, to 14.6 pounds, but the best news came in 2015 when annual consumption actually increased nearly a pound to 15.5 pounds. The trend ended in 2016, when consumption decreased to 14.9 pounds. The numbers for 2017 probably won't be released until the fall.

In general, Americans are falling short of the USDA seafood consumption recommendations by  more than 10 pounds. They are failing to garner the maximum health benefits from seafood consumption, failing to reduce their chances of heart disease by as much as they could. Isn't your health worth the price of buying and consuming seafood? Do you think your health is a luxury?

There are ways to find better values in seafood, though it might also take a bit more effort on your part. First, you can find some seafood which is much more affordable, such as mussels, which are delicious, easy to prepare and very nutritious. Second, seek out local seafood as it often can be less expensive than imported seafood. You can visit some of the local fish markets in the fishing communities such as Gloucester or New Bedford. Third, buy seasonal seafood as it is usually less expensive because it is more abundant in season. If you buy fish out of season, the price may have a premium added to it.

Fourth, check out some of the less popular fish species, which may be cheaper because there is less demand for it. Try wild drum fish, snook, or cobia rather than tuna and cod. These offbeat fish can still be quite tasty and it helps you expand your palate as well. Fifth, if you purchase a fish whole, you can also save money than if you just bought fillets. But, you really only gain savings if you know how to properly cut and slice up a whole fish. That does take some skill but you can find some good books to help you in that regard, or try taking a cooking class on fish preparation. If you are clueless, then buying a whole fish won't end up being less expensive. You should also use all of the whole fish, from head to bones, to extend the value of the fish. Take the time to learn these skills and your seafood will be much cheaper.

Sixth, consider eating smaller portions of fish, rather than a large fillet or steak at one sitting. Even if the seafood is more expensive than other proteins, just manage your portion size so it becomes more affordable per serving. Most doctors would recommend reducing portion sizes of most proteins so reducing your seafood portions shouldn't be a significant problem.

Find ways to eat more seafood, despite the financial cost, as the health benefits far outweigh the other costs. And the potential financial costs of treating heart disease can be quite high so spending much less money to eat seafood is basic good sense.

Rant: Agave Reforestation & Saving Mezcal

When you harvest grapes to make wine, the vines survive and will continue to provide grapes for years to come. On the other hand, mezcal is a distilled spirit made from the agave plant, more commonly called maguey in Mexico, and when it is harvested, the entire plant is gone. You need to plant another maguey to replace it, to maintain sustainability. This is a vital issue with the mezcal industry, one which has received growing attention in recent years.  

One of the mezcal producers which is at the forefront of this matter is Pierde Almas. Their website states: "Pierde Almas is first and foremost a Socially, Culturally and Environmentally Responsible Company." They also create some amazing Mezcals, some of my favorites, including the Maguey de Lumbre, +9 Botanicals, and the Mezcal de Conejo.

In June, Pierde Almas will conduct their 9th Annual Agave Reforestation Program, where they help their Maestro Mezcaleros plant baby agaves in the wild hills of Oaxaca. Last year, the program, with volunteers from México, the U.S., and Europe, planted Tepextate, Tobaziche and Cirial Agaves in the foothills overlooking two different villages. Currently, 98% of those agaves are thriving.

This year, they intend on planting Tepextate and Tobalá in San Baltazar Guelavila and San Luis del Rio, but will also plant about 200 Tepehuaje trees in each village. Tepehuaje trees, native to the Sierra Madre, are sturdy, fast-growing trees which have been a traditional source of firewood for centuries. Resource management is key to community prosperity, so we decided this year to insert one Tepehuaje for every 5 Agaves planted. As the trees grow a little faster than the agaves, they will be ready to be used as firewood when the agaves are ready to be harvested.  Next year, their objective is to quadruple that amount.

If you are interested in this fascinating project, there are two dates to choose from, June 8th and 15th. There is space on each date for a group of twenty people. Aeroméxico has generously provided discounted airfares for all participants. They have also partnered with Hotel Los Pilares to get discounted rates at their beautiful and historical hotel, located in the beautiful Jalatlaco neighborhood in Oaxaca’s Centro Historico.

Pierde Almas will provide transportation to the fields, as well as a big lunch fiesta the day of the planting with Oaxacan music, great food and of course mezcal.

If you are interested please send an email to reforestacion@pierdealmas.com and request more information. Space is limited and will fill up quickly so contact them ASAP if interested.

Save the Maguey, Save the Mezcal!