Rant: Restaurants, The Land of Opportunity

As I was drafting this post, I saw a Facebook post from Chef Charles Draghi of Erbaluce which directly dealt with the issue I wanted to address. Chef Draghi stated: "In over 30 years of running restaurants (I had my first managerial position at age 18,) I have never once had a U.S.-born person apply for a position as a dishwasher. Ditto for the positions of over-night cleaner, or early morning prep cook/receiver."

In 2014, there were approximately 15,251 eating and drinking places in Massachusetts, providing about 330,000 jobs (which is about 10% of all jobs in the state). The restaurant industry provides maybe the greatest opportunity for anyone to make a living, no matter their level of education, social class, place of origin, experience level, and much more. Your willingness to work hard is often the most important factor in obtaining a job in this industry.

Kitchens often owe a huge debt to immigrants who perform some of the most basic, and still very important, duties, from dish washing to prep work. Yet how often do they get credit for all of their hard labors? Not enough! If they so desire, they can eventually work their way to different positions. I don't think there is another industry which is so open to providing these immigrants jobs. Chef Draghi understands and it was great to see him acknowledging their role.

Non-immigrants too can find plenty of opportunity in the restaurant industry. For example, the position of server has helped many people make a living and provide for themselves and their families. It can be very hard work, but the barriers to entry are often low, giving opportunity to those with little experience. In time, those servers acquire experience which can be used to get better jobs in the industry.

Sometimes we think of the restaurant industry as a luxury, yet we must consider the vital role it plays in our community, in our economy. It provides numerous jobs which can help some of the neediest of our community. It is about more than famous chefs and mixologists. It is also about everyone from dishwashers to barbacks, servers and prep cooks. We need the opportunities that this industry provides. It makes us a better society.

Stop looking at a restaurant and seeing only their celebrity chef. Look deeper and note all of the people who contribute to the success of that restaurant. Give them kudos for all of their hard work, work that many others might not choose to do. Support restaurants as they support our community. With the holidays coming, they will be working harder than ever, and deserve respect and recognition for all that they do.

Rant: You're Gay? No Tip For You.

Imagine this: You're a server and provide excellent service to a couple that dines at the restaurant. You would rightfully expect a tip, compensation for the good work that you did. However, that couple refuses to leave you a gratuity and it has nothing to do with the service. It is because they believe you are gay. What?? Who the hell would do something as stupid and bigoted as that?

Sadly, this actually happened recently at a Carrabba's Italian Grill in Kansas. An alleged Christian couple left their server a nasty and bigoted note instead of a tip. Interestingly, they initially stated the the service had been excellent. So they really had no valid reason not to leave a gratuity. The note allegedly stated: "That being said, we cannot in good conscience tip you, for your homosexual lifestyle is an affront to GOD" as well as "“We hope you will see the tip your fag choices made you lose out on, and plan accordingly." WTF??

First, how the hell did you know he was gay? Or did you merely speculate? It sounds like you believe in stereotypes and make assumptions based on those prejudices. Wrong! Wrong! Wrong!

Second, it was ok for a gay server to wait on you and tend to your needs, but it wasn't ok for you to compensate him for his excellent service? How hypocritical of you. How would you like to work for someone but when you went to collect payment, they told you they couldn't, in good conscience, give money to bigots? I doubt you would be happy, and would fight to get paid. You even admitted his service was excellent so you had no valid reason not to tip.

Third, where is your Christian love? All I see here is Christian hate. I know you do not represent all, or even the majority of Christians. I am absolutely confident that Jesus would have tipped his server, whether he was gay or not. Jesus would not have discriminated against his server. You might disagree with me, but you won't convince me that I am wrong.

Fourth, unfortunately, you are not the only bigots out there to stiff a server. For example, others have stiffed servers for the color of their skin. All of you hateful people need to stay home and eat there, and don't bother to patronize restaurants. Your money is not needed. Your hate is not needed. Your prejudice and bigotry is not needed. Stay home!

Fifth, servers work very hard and they rely on tips. If they provide good service, then they deserve to receive a commensurate gratuity. It doesn't matter the color of their skin, their religion, their sexual orientation, the earring in their nose, or whatever other inconsequential matter is involved. Did they do their job properly? That is all that matters.

Sixth, your note actually had the opposite effect than intended. Because of so many good and loving people, your server garnered many of generous tips from customers who oppose your brand of hate. That server has become even more popular because of your detestable actions. And if you ever dare to return to that restaurant, I bet your hate won't be tolerated.

Stop the hate and bigotry to servers. Stop the hate and bigotry to everyone. Just stop it!

John Gauntner: Sake Trends & Restaurant Service

"O what an ugly sight the man who thinks he’s wise and never drinks sake!"
--Ōtomo no Tabito

The sheer bliss of having over 45 different Sakes available for tasting. That made for quite a superb Monday, especially when I also got see and speak with John Gauntner, the famed Sake expert and "Sake Dendoushi" ("Sake Evangelist"), once again. John is an excellent Sake sensei and he was in Boston to impart some of his immense knowledge of this wondrous drink to a couple groups of Sake lovers.

On Monday, I was fortunate to attend two Sake events, including an afternoon Sake seminar & tasting at the residence of Takeshi Hikihara, the Consul General of Japan, located in Chestnut Hill. That event was a partnership with Chairman Haruo Matsuzaki of the Sake Export Association and President Peter Grilli of the Japan Society of Boston.In the evening, the Japan Society of Bostonhosted a Sake tasting and dinner at Cafe Sushiin Cambridge. John Gautner was at both events, making a brief presentation at each and then chatting with all of the attendees, answering all of their Sake questions.

John's presentations can be broken into two main topics: the current trends in the Sake industry and serving Sake at restaurants. His words were very encouraging, largely positive, and optimistic for the future. He also offered very practical advice to restaurants on how they can better offer and serve Sake to their customers. He did not differentiate as to only Japanese restaurants, and his comments would apply to any type of restaurant, of any cuisine, which wanted to provide Sake to their patrons. As I have said often, Sake is extremely food friendly and compatible with a wide range of cuisines.

Up front, John stated that there is "no bad sake on the market" and that "even the worst is pretty good." That doesn't mean that all Sake is premium or that it is all excellent. It indicates that the quality of Sake has never been higher than it is now, better than it was even 10 years ago. The quality should continue to improve with time so it is a great time to enter the realm of Sake.

Sake consumption in Japan peaked around 1973 and has been on a steady decline since then, where it now constitutes less than 10% of Japanese alcohol consumption. The number of Sake breweries has been on a steady decline as well, from a high of over 20,000, down now to around 1400 or so. But, 2011 saw a slight increase in consumption and there are signs that it could continue, which obviously would be very good for all. In addition, Sake exports to the U.S. have broken records in both 2010 and 2011. There are a number of reasons why the increases may continue.

First, the general overall interest in Sake has increased and that has led to more consumption. Second, as I mentioned recently, the Japanese government is declaring Sake to be a "national alcoholic beverage." Though the government lacks much of a budget or plan for how to promote Sake, their simple announcement has already garnered plenty of publicity.  We can only hope that the government will devise some compelling strategy to promote Sake. If nothing else though, hopefully the increased publicity will continue. Third, though Sake consumption has traditionally been the primary domain of older generations, the demographics have begun to shift, with more people from the younger generations embracing Sake. That should invigorate the industry, giving them a larger market.

What have been some of the latest trends and changes in the Sake industry? John broke this topic into three categories: products, industry and technology. But, he also stressed, as I have heard him say numerous times before, that there are many exceptions in the Sake world. Generalizations can be made, as long as one understands that exceptions are likely to exist.

Let us start with the products category. First, about 10-20 years ago, Sake aromas, which primarily derive from the yeast, started becoming much more prominent, and eventually a number went too extreme, way over the top. Fortunately, many producers have begun to reign in these extremes, returning to a more reasonable balance. Second, though the number of Sparkling, Low Alcohol and Fruit-Flavored/Infused Sakes on the market have increased, they still constitute the tiniest percentage of production so they are not truly a significant trend. Third, more attention and publicity has been given to certain Sake styles, including Namazake, Kimoto, and Yamahai. This is good news to me, especially since the Kimoto/Yamahai is one of my favorite styles. Thus, I hope to see more Sakes produced in this manner, even though it is a more laborious and risky process. Lastly, there appears to be a surge in new pasteurization methods, which is leading to better quality Sake. In addition, there is much more storage of Sake in the bottle rather than cask during the usual 6-12 month aging period after production. This generally leads to smoother Sake.

As for the industry, there have been several key changes. First, a new generation of Sake brewers is entering the industry. The old guard, often 60+ years old, are handing over the reigns to the younger generation, often men 30-40 years old. This is infusing new ideas and life into the Sake industry, which is needed as the world is changing. Second, in that regard, with the advent of the Internet, social media, and such, marketing and sales have changed, and what worked in the past may no longer be applicable. Breweries must adapt to these changes, and a younger generation might best be able to handle these changes. Third, more experimentation in the Sake industry is now occurring, again likely due to the younger generation who are more willing to try new things, to expand their horizons and take risks. Where many previous brewery owners were never involved in the actual brewing, handing the reigns to their Toji, the newer generations of owners are doing it themselves, creating a deeper connection with their products.

In regards to technological changes, mechanization is far more prevalent in breweries, and the machines are more complex and advanced. The best part is that these machines generally perform the laborious tasks of brewing, yet still permit the skilled brewers to intervene where necessary. Less laborers are necessary but the human element remains to ensure the artisan nature of the Sake, as well as to control the quality. Despite the increased mechanization, brewing still remains more about "experience and intuition" and John even stated that to the brewers, "every year it is back to first grade." It has also been very helpful to brewers that there now is an abundance of assistance available to them. Textbooks, chemical analysis and research results are more readily available to the brewers and there is now more information exchange. Computers have made such communication much easier, and this has lead to a greater quality Sake across the industry. Resources for Sake brewing just continue to grow.

How should restaurants best serve Sake? How should they create a Sake list? Though these comments were directed primarily to restaurants, some of the information is relevant to all Sake lovers. But I hope that many restaurants, of all cuisines, heed these suggestions, to better promote Sake.

Restaurants need to understand that their primary goal in serving Sake should be to promote it, to get more customers drinking it. The more people that drink it, the greater your profits. With that goal always in mind, then a restaurant can implement a plan to best serve their Sake. In general, it is probably most beneficial to keep it simple, to ensure Sake is approachable. Consider that though wine can be intimidating to many customers, Sake is even more intimidating. If you place too many barriers to the comprehension of your Sake list, then your customers will opt for a different, and easier, beverage. If you choose to make your Sake more complex, you must be willing to handle the ramifications, and also ensure that your staff is adequately prepared to handle that level of complexity. But simple might be your best option.

What is the proper glassware for Sake? It is simple as there are no rules and you are free to create your own. It can be advantageous to use a wine glass for serving aromatic Ginjo Sake, though some other Sakes won't present as well in such a glass. You can use the small, traditional ochoko glasses, which can be aesthetically very pleasing, but then the complex aromas of Ginjo Sake may not present well. It is best to make it simple, though some complexity can be fun, if you are willing to deal with the added difficulty. Experiment with your Sake, and determine which works best for your restaurant.

What is the proper serving temperature for Sake? Most premium Sake is best served slightly chilled, as you would serve a white wine. Warming Ginjo, and especially Daiginjo, Sake though can destroy some of their complexity so it is not advised. Some Sake, such as Kimoto and Yamahai can be gently warmed, though not too hot. A restaurant should experiment with tasting their Sake selection at various temperatures to determine what will work best. You could make this more complex for your patrons, offering the same Sake at different temperatures, but that also can be a barrier to the average consumer. Making it simple might be preferable.

How do you compile a Sake list? It is recommended that your Sake list be created to impress your customers, to offer them a diversity of Sake. As there is so much more Sake available now, restaurants have a wide selection from which to choose. It is important to decide what you wish to accomplish with your Sake list. For example, do you wish it to contain only unique Sakes or do you want to have one of the largest lists in the city? Treat it as importantly as you would in compiling a wine list.

You can order your Sake list in numerous ways, such as by price, grade, style, region and more. One of the simplest and effective ways to do so is by grade, such as Junmai, Ginjo and Daiginjo. That also usually corresponds to price so that higher grades will cost more. You should also separate the more unusual types, such as Sparkling Sake and Koshu, aged Sake, into a separate category as they really don't fit well into a grade category.

It is also recommended that you carry a range of price points, from inexpensive to high-end Sake. You want some less expensive Sakes so that customers will be more willing to take a chance on ordering it. I have mentioned that to restaurants before, that marking up their Sake by 3-4 times the retail price is ridiculous. It is a significant barrier to customers who know little about Sake as well as more experienced Sake lovers. It can also be important to carry one or two very popular Sakes, to appeal to those who will seek out such bottles. Besides carrying full-sized Sake bottles, 720ml, you might also want some smaller bottles (300ml-500ml), as well as serving Sake by the glass. As Sake is more durable than wine, serving it by the glass makes sense. Following up on that, it can also be very helpful to serve tasting flights of 3-5 Sakes, giving customers an easy way to try several different Sakes.

Education is also very important. First, you need an educated staff, servers who know and understand about Sake. Just as you wish your servers to know about wine, they should also know about Sake if you serve it. They don't need to be experts, but they do need to understand the basics and be able to explain it to customers. It can also be quite helpful if your Sake list provides some educational information for your customers, even something as simple as descriptions of the various grades and types of Sake. That helps to remove another barrier for consumers, and gives them more reason why they might choose to order Sake rather than another beverage.

The future of Sake looks bright, but we still need to continue to promote it, to get more people to taste it. Sake has much to offer, with a huge spread of flavor profiles, and more people would enjoy it, if only they took a chance and tried some delicious, premium Sake. So share a bottle of Sake with some friends, and spread the passion for this exquisite Japanese drink.

Culinary Creativity: Chef Peter Ungár-Part 2

(Check out my Introduction to the Creative Culinary series.)
(Read Part 1 of my Interview with Chef Peter Ungár)

How do you test new recipes/dishes?
Cooking is a continual evolution and learning experience. Due to the nature of my business, with Private Dining and Chef's Table events (rather than a daily restaurant), I never create the same dish twice. There is always a variation and an improvement. Therefore, I am always serving new dishes, and my guests are trying it for the first time. This can be risky, but can also produce some of the most exciting dishes. Once a concept receives too many varying opinions, the original concept and vision I may have first sought might be watered down. Therefore, I do rely heavily on my own culinary preferences and cooking instincts.

Baking and pastries, however, are entirely another realm. Whenever I decide to compose a dish with those kinds of components, I must do test run at least once, if not several times, to get it right. I am my own worst critic, so if I don't like it, I will not be serving it.

What is the most difficult part of culinary creativity?
The most difficult part about being creative with food is doing something original. It has happened so many times, that I feel proud of a certain dish, cooking technique, or flavor combination, which I feel is completely unique, only to see something frighteningly similar shortly thereafter. On the other hand, this is what pushes me to be as creative as possible, so I know for certain that my guests have never tried it before, and I am able to maintain that element of surprise.

Also, since my business is a private dining service, and not an established restaurant, I am lacking many of the technical gadgetry which I would absolutely love to have. I often have to resort to the next best thing in order to create the result I am expecting. Occasionally I end up with something even better than previously planned, but sometimes a certain concept has to be completely avoided since I do not have the appropriate equipment and space.

Do you ever experience “writer’s block,” an inability to be creative, and if so, how do you deal with it?
Although I will admit to experiencing "chef's block," I do believe that it may not actually exist. It is all a matter of determination and will. When "all the stars are aligned," ideas are flowing and menus are created. But when I have distractions and there is other pressing business or family issues to handle, the creative process can be stifled. The best way I deal with it to move on to other areas of a menu, and bounce around, until it begins to take shape enough to make me happy. A menu is never finished in the way I had originally planned for it to be, but is always better than what I had originally thought it would be.

When I really hit the wall with trying to come up with new ideas, I flip through any one of my several cookbooks and see what some of my favorite chefs have done in the past. That usually is enough to jump-start some suppressed ideas and helps blossom undeveloped concepts that I have not yet felt comfortable including in a menu.

I also keep a log of completely random ideas, just in case. Usually I write down ingredient combinations which are interesting and I might like to use - somewhere, somehow. For example, the black truffle and pistachio coulis, paired with the tomato and scallop terrine, was taken from my log. I had simply written, "blk truffle/pistachio" after reading about a dish in an El Bulli book. I knew I wanted to have scallops and black truffles served together. Then I thought about summer and wanting to serve tomatoes. Then, I tied it all together after looking through my log and seeing "blk truffle/pistachio." At that point, I still hadn't decided on a terrine. Looking through a Ducasse book reminded me of confit of tomato, which I have done several times before, but I was currently stuck thinking about raw tomatoes. It was then that I decided on creating the terrine with equally sized raw scallop slices and confit tomato petals.

Can you relate an interesting or unusual anecdote about the creation of a specific dish?
The above description goes with this question too. Another description of creating a dish is with the White Miso & Sake Torched Hamachi. Daikon, cucumber, nashi pear, wakame seaweed consommé, littleneck clam crouton, aged soy aïoli. I let my fish purveyor know that I really wanted to use hamachi whenever he could get some. Finally he let me know it was available. One of my original "signature" dishes is the miso marinated halibut steamed in sake. I knew I wanted to do something with similar flavors, but wanted to use a different technique. "Torching" sashimi is popular, so I decided to combine the miso and sake, and serve the fish raw, instead of steamed, and just brulée the marinade onto the fish.

Then I needed something light, acidic, and fresh to go with the rich fish. I have been wanting to do a version of a Korean cold summer noodle soup dish called "mul naengmyeon." I absolutely love this dish - as do all Koreans - and have always been wanting to transform it into something I may serve to my guests. The garnish for naengmyeon is cucumber, daikon, and Asian (nashi) pear. I took this component, made perfect little slices, pickled the daikon, and served it as a base for the hamachi. I knew I wanted more on the plate, but didn't know what yet. When I went to go buy the hamachi, I saw little neck clams that had just come in. That's when it struck me to shuck those, fry the clams, serve them in their shell, along with a shot of clam broth made from clarifying the clam juice, and simmered with wakame seaweed. Then mayo and fried clams are a great pair, and I still needed a sauce on the plate. So I made a fresh aioli, with an Asian twist of adding aged soy, instead of salt. Although I had been thinking about a hamachi dish for several months, the final presentation did not come together until the day of the dinner.

Culinary Creativity: Chef Peter Ungár-Part 1

(Check out my Introduction to the Creative Culinary series.)

Chef Peter Ungár currently operates The Dining Alternative, a private dining service, where he comes to your home and prepares a special meal for you and your guests. Approximately once a month, he holds a Chef''s Table at his own home to showcase his culinary skills. These events, limited to twelve people, consist of a five-course meal with wine pairings. I have been to several of these dinners and they are fantastic, as good a meal as any you will find anywhere in the city. Plus, they are quite fun, a great social experience. You can read some of my prior posts about Peter and you might want to start here.

Chef Ungár began cooking at the age of 17 as an apprentice in one of the two French restaurants in Fort Worth, Texas. He then attended Boston University’s School of Hospitality Administration and eventually moved to France, securing a job at the Relais & Châteaux, Le Chalet du Mont d’Arbois, in Megève. Upon returning to the U.S., Peter went to work at the Four Seasons Hotel in Boston. In 2003, Peter opened The Dining Alternative, though he continued to work at various establishments in such as Truly Jörg’s Pâtisserie, John Dewar’s Butcher Shop and Craigie Street Bistrot. Peter is also a Chef/Instructor at the Cambridge School of Culinary Arts.

How important is culinary creativity to you? Why is it important?

For me, culinary creativity is essential in cooking. This is not to say that every chef must be unique in their cooking. Many chefs are successful cooking dishes that have been around for ages, and just do it better than anyone else. Personally speaking, cooking is an outlet for my creativity, therefore it is central to why I cook. Envisioning a unique dish, bringing it to life, and then seeing and hearing the reactions from my guests gives me unparalleled satisfaction.

The hospitality industry, and cooking in particular, is one of the most competitive and crowded industries in the world. Many people think they can cook, few can do it well, and only a very small percentage can do it exceptionally. I strive to be in the last category, and the only way to get there is by creating food that is truly singular. It must be something that not only my guests have never tried before, but were simply not expecting. The element of surprise is key, and that is where creativity plays its most crucial role. When the guest is caught off guard about a certain taste, texture, or aroma, it pulls them closer into the dining experience - and it becomes just that: an experience, instead of a meal.

What are your most significant inspirations for your culinary creativity? What makes those matters so inspiring?

Inspiration can come from anywhere at any time. So the first step is being open to it and ready to receive it. Sometimes I will be on an outing with my family, and a concept for a dish will hit me out of the blue. I'll recite it to my wife so I won't forget it. But if only all my ideas came that easily! Since I am still fairly young, and have a lot to learn and experience, I look to my culinary idols to see what they are doing. I'm not a culinary trendsetter - yet. So I like to learn from those who are setting the standard at the gastronomic forefront. Of course, if I simply copied their work, I wouldn't be creative or unique. So I may just use their concepts to help develop my own ideas and style of cooking.

Other sources of inspiration come from my daily eating and cooking habits. It could be a Hungarian dish my mother prepares or a Korean dish my mother-in-law has made. I've even developed ideas while forced to create food for my sons to eat - which may have involved processing an ingredient in a way I've never thought of before - but they ate it, which was all that mattered at the time!

Where do you get your ideas for new recipes/dishes?

The initial concept for a new recipe or dish usually begins with a key ingredient, which I would really like to work with and serve to my guests. Of course, my guests' satisfaction is always at the top of my mind. I believe that if I am excited about a certain ingredient or dish, my guests will be too.

Since I cook strictly with the seasons, often I am restricted to what is available right now. This practice, in itself, makes the dishes I create more appealing, since food in season naturally tastes better. So sometimes a walk through my local farmers’ market or the seasonal produce at the grocery will give me plenty of ideas. The food that is sitting there is saying, "cook me - I'm in season." Then it's just a matter of figuring out appropriate techniques and appealing combinations.

What is your process of creating a new recipe or dish?

The process can start any number of different ways. If there is a particular ingredient I would really like to use, then I jot it down and see how the rest of the menu may evolve which will, in turn, develop that dish with my key ingredient. I always create menus instead of dishes, since I never simply serve one dish, rather a whole series of dishes, which all must complement each other and create a harmonious culinary experience for the guest. As the entire menu evolves, ingredients may get added, omitted, or shifted around so it makes more sense for the dining guest.

Do other members of your staff assist with creating ideas for new recipes/dishes?

I always welcome input from my staff. I particularly ask for their opinions when a certain dish just doesn't sit right with me. Sometimes I get so emotionally involved with the menu, that it's hard for me to think differently, and then a quick suggestion - and often a simple omission - all of a sudden creates the balance and flow I was looking for, yet was eluding me until then. My wife, more than anyone else, has an uncanny ability to know what I would like to have in a certain dish, even when I am having trouble coming to that same conclusion.

The only exception to this is during service. Once the dinner begins, the menu is written in stone. We can hypothesize and theorize all we want leading up to service, but when it comes time to cook, plate, and serve the food, there can be absolutely no descending opinions about how something should be cooked or plated. At that point, it is too late, and if they have any comments, save them until after we are completely finished with the night, and we can then discuss it in hindsight.

Part 2 of this Interview will be posted tomorrow.

Rant: Boring Menus

I have been thinking a lot lately about culinary creativity and innovation. It has been spurred on by some recent meals at intriguing places, by chefs who are passionate about constantly creating new dishes to tantalize and delight their patrons.

But, there is a dark side as well. A world of boredom and monotony, restaurants with menus that rarely, if ever, change. These establishments are like robotic factories, churning out the same dishes every day of the year. Their chefs do not seem to relish the challenge of producing new and interesting meals. Instead, they repeat dishes over and over so much that they could probably prepare them in their sleep.

I have nothing against a restaurant that maintains certain signature dishes. But, I think restaurants should regularly change a number of their menu items, especially to reflect seasonal availability. Any chef can make the same dishes all the time. But the truly passionate chefs won't be satisfied to do so. They will want to be inventive, to expand their own culinary horizons. They will constantly be seeking to better themselves, to better their dishes. They relish the challenge and their patrons benefit.

Let me provide you a few examples of chefs who exemplify this type of ideal. First, Chef Peter Ungár of The Dining Alternative. I have attended several of his special Chef's Table dinners, and I have never been served the same dish twice. Second, Chef Matthew Barrows of Myers & Chang. He is constantly working on creating new dishes for the restaurant and I have tasted at least one of his works in progress, a delicious seared scallop in a sweet corn sauce. Third, Chef Charles Draghi of Erbaluce. His menu is always changing, except for a couple signature dishes, and he creates very innovative Italian cuisine.

I won't give you examples of the boring chefs as they should be clearly evident to you. All you have to do is consider those restaurants where the menus never, or rarely change. Such chefs should stop being zombies in the kitchens, repeating the same tired old actions day in, day out. Support those chefs who dare to take the challenge.

Chef German Lam & Glam Foods

As I mentioned in yesterday's A Spoonful of Ginger post, I wanted to devote a bit more time to talking about Chef German Lam of Glam Foods, LLC. Why did I select one chef to highlight out of the many from that event? Though I had plenty of delicious food at the event, there was a single dish that stood out to me as especially unique. And that dish was prepared by Chef Lam.

Chef Lam prepared a French Asian Seafood Head Terrine with Sauce Vert. Initially, I was a bit wary of the terrine, unsure whether I would like it or not. Not all terrines are equal and I have had some terrines that really displeased me. But I gave it a try and it was absolutely delicious, enough that I returned several times for more pieces of it. The flavor was complex, with plenty of fresh fruit flavors, especially Asian pear, and an underlying taste of seafood, the shrimp most prominent. The flavors were well-balanced, nothing being too overpowering, and there was an interesting mix of textures as well, from the soft gelatin to the crunch of the soy beans. It really impressed me and I think it is the type of dish that would appeal to most food lovers.

I spent some time talking with Chef Lam and he told me some about how this intriguing dish was created. He started with lobster and shrimp broth, watercress, white miso, dashi, onions, carrots, and celery. Then he used some gelatin to thicken the mixture. After that, he added soy beans, baby shrimp, and salmon and then wrapped it in nori. The Sauce Vert had a sweet chili base, using ichimi (Japanese pepper flakes) as well as cilantro, scallions, fresh waterchestnuts, lemon juice, Asian pear, and olive oil. Chef Lam obtained many of his ingredients from the Sun Sun Company (in Chinatown) and Captain Mardens Seafood.

Chef Lam was born in Santiago, Chile and throughout his life he was exposed to many different cuisines. He was classically trained at Newbury College and has worked at many high-end places, including the Chatham Bars Inn, the Ritz Carlton Cleveland, the Ritz Carlton Boston, and the Harvard Club. So he definitely has plenty of experience creating high-end cuisine.

Currently, he spends much of his time working for his company Glam Foods, LLC. Glam Foods provides cooking/culinary sessions, personal chef services, sports programs, meal planning/budgeting and more. Chef Lam's objective it to "inspire, inform and educate" people on how to create an easy, healthy, and enjoyable lifestyle through cuisine. His motto is “Healthy cooking, healthy living, healthy body.” This is what many people are now seeking.

The Seafood Terrine is representative of Chef Lam's philosophy of cooking. First, it is fusion, combining elements of different cuisines, stemming from his exposure throughout his life with various cuisines around the world. Second, it is made primarily with local produce, which is important to Chef Lam. He tries to cook within the seasons, with whatever is most fresh. Third, it is healthy, something that is extremely important to Chef Lam. He is trying to promote a healthier attitude towards food, but without any sacrifice of quality or taste. This dish certainly had plenty of delicious taste. Fourth, it was memorable, another quality valued by Chef Lam. He wants you to remember his food, for it to stand out among other dishes. He accomplished that with me, as his terrine was the most memorable dish to me at the event. Lastly, he considers what he does as a form of art. That too is appropriate for the terrine.

As the owner of Glam Foods, Chef Lam tries to instill his philosphy and values into his clients. He sees himself more as a coach than educator to assist people with their own cooking. He teaches more than just recipes, but tries to show them a preferable lifestyle with delicious, healthy food at the center. He does more than create food for you, but shows you the reasons behind the cuisine. He is providing similar services to the Waltham Public School system, helping to make school lunches healthier as well as educating the children on healthier alternatives.

I was impressed with Chef Lam's passion, as well as his culinary philosophy. I hope to taste more of his cuisine in the future. If you are seeking personal chef services, or want to to learn more about healthy cooking, then check out the services offered by his Glam Foods.

Glam Foods, LLC.
P.O. Box 540225
Waltham, MA 02454
Phone: 617-999-3868
Email: german@glamfoodsllc.com

Underground Dinners: A Cautionary Tale

Now I understand why there is sometimes opposition to underground dining. Without any regulations, you never know what you might find.

I recently posted about a pleasant experience with underground dining but I have had a second such experience, and matters were a bit different. First, it was a much more covert meal. In fact, it was tougher to gain entrance to this dinner than it would be to obtain a security pass to enter the White House. What most helped me was an excellent reference from someone who had previously been to this secret dinner. To protect this person's identity, I'll just refer to this friend as JAC.

I had to sign a number of confidentiality agreements to attend this dinner, certainly an oddity, but also very intriguing. There was almost an air of irrational paranoia about this event. I could not take any photos or written notes. I could only memorize the details. I was even told of the dinner's location only an hour before the event, causing me to rush to get there on time.

The dinner was held at a private home, though you had to park down the street so as to not bring much attention to the house. All of the shades were pulled down so you could not see inside. Plus, once we entered the house, the door was securely locked from the inside. Everyone had to be frisked, to ensure that no one had any recording devices. This was also the first dinner I ever attended that had two armed, security guards on the premises. I thought this was all over the top, probably intended to heighten excitement about the dinner.

I was told there would be a Polynesian theme to the dinner, including many unique pork dishes created from the unusual "long pig." I was not familiar with this type of porcine creature but figured they would tell us all about this rare beast. The entire long pig was to be prepared and cooked for us, which is usually said to be from snout to tail. Though the chef actually referred to it as nose to butt. There would be some charcuterie, a roast, ribs, bacon, and much more. The meat would be accompanied by some local, fresh vegetables and potatoes.

JAC had previously tantalized me with details of the meal, mainly how delicious the meat was, so much better than even Kurobuta pork or even Wagyu beef. JAC could not get enough of this meat and now did not miss a single one of these underground dining events. I was supposed to be in for a real treat so I was excited to try this new meat. I was told that my entire life would be transformed by this dinner.

The multicourse meal was quite delicious, the long pig being a part of every course, even dessert. It actually was a strange meat, only vaguely reminiscent of pork. It did not remind me of any other type of meat I have ever eaten. Yet it was compelling in its own right. Each dish was amazingly prepared, as good as any you would find at a high end restaurant. My fellow dining companions ravenously attacked their plates, devouring every dish. Even JAC seemed to salivate just by looking at each course.

But I could not understand the reason for all the secrecy. They actually never explained the origin of the long pig. The only thing that came to mind was that the animal was endangered, and eating it was illegal. That did give me reason to pause, but the meat was so scrumptious it overrode my conscience. I vowed though to learn more once I got home.

When I arrived home, I Googled "long pig" and sat stunned for quite some time. My hands shook as I sat there, my eyes locked onto the screen. It could not have been real, they had to have meant something else. But it certainly explained the reason for the over the top security. I wanted to deny the truth but I knew I could not.

If you get invited to a dinner serving long pig, run the other way.

Long pig is a euphemism for human beings, a term used by cannibals.
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April Fool's Day!

O.N.C.E.: A Secret Dinner

A clandestine dining experience on a snowy Sunday evening. I felt like a foodie spy, meeting other secret agents to assess a new target.

Only the attendees knew the location of the meal, a restaurant that had been co-opted for the evening for this special event. Yet the dinner was not too secret, as it had been advertised on at least a couple websites. I actually first learned of the event from the article Try Underground Dining-O.N.C.E. The article intrigued me.

Many questions surfaced in my mind. Was this event illegal? If it was, did that even matter? Would this event be sanitary and safe? Would the food be good? What type of people would be there? I intended to learn the answers.

Underground dining or secret supper clubs exist all cross the country, though they vary greatly from place to place. The reasons for such also vary. They are not without controversy and some of them are technically illegal while others have sanitary issues. Yet foodies often find them intriguing, relishing the secrecy and exclusivity of such. The O.N.C.E. event certainly fascinated me and I wanted to attend, to see what it was like, despite any minor worries that I might have.

O.N.C.E. stands for "One Night Culinary Events" and they are run by JJ Gonson, a personal chef and local foodie, of Cuisine En Locale. These events are run sporadically and are often very different and "seasonally appropriate." The dining events primarily use the best local foods. For this recent event, there were to be two different dinners. The first seating was for families with children, a buffet style meal. The second seating was to be a special, ten-course meal for only a donation of $50. Though they sold wine and beer, you could also bring your own.

When I arrived at the event, I was warmly greeted and had a chance to speak with JJ for a bit. I found her to be very energetic and obviously passionate about food and cooking. She made an excellent advocate for the dinner, bringing an infectious enthusiasm to the room.

I sat with a few food & wine writer/bloggers that I knew. You can check out their work at the Leather District Gourmet, Drinks Are On Me, and Tales of the Basil Queen. Adele has already has written an excellent and comprehensive description of the dinner. For an insider's view, you should also check out Linsey's post on this event. Linsey worked as the front-of-the-house manager for the event and you can learn much more about the preparation and service for this event.

Over the course of several hours, we dined on the multi-course feast, enjoying the wines that Dale and I brought. Adele has already gone into a very detailed description of all the various courses so I won't do the same. Instead, let me provide my general feelings about the dinner in its entirety. And I will begin by telling you that I had a very pleasant dining experience.

I felt that this was a very homey and comfortable dinner, like a casual dinner party you might have at your own home. The food was very good (I craved seconds of several of the dishes) and JJ is obviously a talented chef. For the donation of $50, I think this was a very good value, especially considering some of the ingredients, such as lobster and lamb. We were not rushed, service was very good, and everyone was so very pleasant. For example, one of the workers, Henry, sent over to me a couple glasses of some older Italian wines. That was a very kind gesture.

The O.N.C.E. event is a good example of the potential of underground dining. You don't always have to visit a restaurant or cook at home for a good meal. You can live on the edge and seek out a different dining experience, maybe a more clandestine meal. I really liked the fact that this event was not fueled by a chef's greed but rather originated with the sincere passion of JJ Gonson. I felt a real sense of community at this event and I would not hesitate to go to another O.N.C.E. event.

I definitely recommend that my readers check out these events. Just go to JJ's site, Cuisine En Locale, for information about the next event. You might also want to consider her personal chef and catering services.

I am also looking forward to one of JJ's new endeavors, which I'll just mention briefly. She is assisting a Thai restaurant with a small plates concept. Now that sounds very cool and I can't wait to check it out when it is ready.

The Dining Alternative: February Chef's Table Dinner

After my last compelling dinner at The Dining Alternative's Chef's Table, I was eager to return when I received an invitation to their February dinner. Chef Peter Ungár had thoroughly impressed me with his culinary skills. You can read my prior two-part review of the dinner here and here.

The Chef's Table dinner once again cost $75 per person for a five-course meal with wine pairings. All of the wines for the evening were specially selected to match the food by sommelier Scott Weinstein of the Martignetti Companies. Chef Ungár was only assisted this time in the cooking by Quynh Dang, one of those who helped him at the prior dinner. My friend, Dale Cruse of Drinks Are On Me, also attended this dinner.

Before attending the dinner, I had some obvious questions, the same ones I aways did when returning to a restaurant. Would the dinner be as good as the previous one? Would it be very similar to the prior one? Would consistency be maintained? Would I enjoy it as much as the first time? I would only receive answers at the dinner.


While milling around, chatting with and getting to know the other guests, we were served Gruyere Cheese Gougeres, just like the previous dinner. These looked slightly different though than before, with little peaks. Yet they still tasted as delicious, addictive little cheese puffs. These are an excellent hors d'ouerve.

They were accompanied by glasses of the NV Adami "Bosco di Gica" Prosecco di Valdobbiadene, a delicious Italian sparkling wine. Crisp, dry and with nice green apple flavors.

The rest of the meal would be completely different from the previous one. We began with an amuse bouche, the Celeriac Veloute Sip, with black truffle coulis and foie gras cromesquis. The shot glass was filled with hot, thick liquid with a strong celeriac flavor as well as a touch of earthiness, likely due to the black truffle. Very different and appealing. On the spoon above, you can see the foie gras cromesquis, essentially like a bite-sized, foie gras tater tot. The batter was crunchy yet the interior was silky and moist. A heavenly mix and I could have easily eaten a dozen or more of these. One was just such a tease to my palate.

The first course was Terrine of Duck Confit with salsify, black trumpets, swiss chard, riesling quince, blackberry gastrique, and whole grain mustard sauce. This was not just a duck leg, as is most confit, but was actually whole duck. This was another interesting dish with a mix of flavors and textures, all that complemented each other. The earthiness was balanced by the sweet and the duck was fantastic, moist and flavorful.

This course was paired with the 2005 Isole E Olena Chianti Classico, one of my favorite Chiantis which even made my list of Top Ten Wines over $15 of 2008. It was a good match with this dish and is a very food friendly wine. I really love this wine and was happy to see it at the dinner.

Next up, Braised French White Asparagus with king trumpets, coddled farm egg, cured olives, white asparagus coulis, and paprika oil. I dislike asparagus so this was not a dish I particularly liked. I did enjoy the mushrooms and egg, and even tried the asparagus though I still did not care for it. But, those around me who liked asparagus, really loved this dish. Everything was really fresh and they very much liked the sauce too. Even though I dislike asparagus, I can appreciate the quality of this dish.

This was paired with a 2006 Alois Lageder Riesling, a biodynamic wine. This was a full bodied wine with a bit of sweetness to its citrus flavors. Asparagus is considered a very difficult food to pair with wine. This Riesling though was probably as good a pairing as possible, the bit of sweetness helping to offset the taste of the asparagus.

The Milk-Poached Lemon Sole with crispy ginger, fines herbes salad, red curry sauce, lime confit and powder was a compelling dish. The sole was fantastic, tender, flaky and moist and the spicy curry sauce added some "fire" to the taste. The limes helped to quench the fire of the curry. This was superb, and I loved its spiciness. Even the little things, like the crispy ginger, was delicious. The red curry sauce would be a versatile sauce that would go well with many different seafoods or meats.

The wine pairing, the 2007 Pieropan Soave Classico, was a nice match. This was not the forgettable Soave you might have had in the past. This was a dry, crisp wine with plenty of delicious citrus flavors and a nice minerality. Lots of character and the wine went well with the spiciness of the Sole.

For an Intermezzo, we had some Raita Sorbets, cucumber and yogurt. Raita usually is intended to help counter spicy foods so its place after the sole with red curry sauce was appropriate. I was a bit wary of cucumber sorbet, not sure how it would actually taste, but my worry was quickly put to rest. The cucumber flavor was subtle and it actually made for a tasty treat. Even the yogurt sorbet lacked that chalky flavor you sometimes get with yogurt. A good palate cleanser.

The Wagyu Beef Short Ribs came with dapple dandy pluot, vanilla bean & thyme, macomber turnip puree, radish salad, and sauce cacao. The braised meat was super tender, just melting in your mouth. The sauce added some intriguing sweet flavors to the meat and even the turnip puree was delicious. The pluot, an apricot/plum hybrid, was a tasty fruit with its own unique taste. Another top notch dish.

The wine was a 2007 Matane Primitivo/Merlot, Primitivo being similar to Zinfandel. A dark purple wine with bold flavors of ripe black fruit with spicy notes. Quite delicious with a lengthy finish. It went well with the chocolate sauce and beef.

Dessert was an Heirloom Carrot Cake with mascarpone icing, fig molasses, and carrot coriander ice cream. I have always liked carrot cake, though have never been a fan of cream cheese frosting. I always felt that it overwhelmed the taste of the cake. The mascarpone icing though complemented rather than hid the flavor of the carrot cake. In fact, everything on this dish complemented each other, nothing overpowering the other items. There was just the right amount of sweetness and I eagerly devoured the dish, despite all of the food I had already eaten.

With the carrot cake, was the 2008 Ascheri Moscato D'Asti, an excellent dessert wine. It is crisp, fruity, refreshing and with only hints of sweetness. An absolutely delicious wine and one I would highly recommend.

Yet there was still more to come, a dish of Mignardises, including a Coconut macaroon, Yuzu jelly cookie and Marzipan apple. Light, bite-sized treats which you just have to eat. I really enjoyed the macaroon, especially as they are one of my favorite cookies. And this was an exceptional macaroon, crunchy on the outside and soft inside.

So, as to my initial questions. Yes, the quality of this dinner was as good as the previous one and the dinner itself was very different. Chef Ungár maintained an excellent consistency and is not just a one-trick pony. He is a creative and talented chef. I enjoyed the dining experience very much and would return to the Chef's Table again and again. And once again, I did not hear a single complaint from anyone about the dinner. Everyone else seemed to love everything we ate.

The Chef's Table event remains one of the best dining experiences in the local area, though it still seems a culinary secret. But, if you get the opportunity to go, make sure you make reservations. You won't be disappointed.

The Dining Alternative & Chef Peter Ungár: Part 4

For the last part of this series, Chef Peter Ungár was kind enough to provide a few of his recipes, including two of the items I had at the Chef's Table. Please note that Peter does not usually use specific measurements when cooking so not all of the recipes have your usual measures.

First up, the delicious Gruyère Cheese Gougères that are pictured above. Gougères are made from a basic pâte à choux with gruyère cheese, which is savory instead of sweet (such as profiteroles and eclairs).

Ingredients
1 cup water
3 1/2 oz. butter (unsalted)
1 tablespoon kosher salt
1/8 teaspoon finely cracked white pepper
1/4 teaspoon dry mustard
1/4 teaspoon sugar
1 1/4 cup AP flour
5 eggs
1 cup Gruyère cheese (grated)
1/4 cup Parmesan cheese (grated)
1 egg (for egg wash)

Directions:

1. Oven at 450 - line baking sheet with Silpat (or parchment paper).
2. Combine water, butter, salt, pepper, mustard, and sugar - bring to boil - add flour.
3. Stir for at least 2 minutes on medium heat - mixture forms a ball and moisture evaporates.
4. Cool mixture slightly - add eggs, one at a time - mixing vigorously.
5. Mixture should form medium peaks - then add gruyère.
6. Pipe batter into 1 oz. size balls, with 2-3" between each - sprinkled with Parmesan.
7. Bake for 7-8 minutes, or until they puff and hold their shape.
8. Mix 1 egg with splash of water - quickly brush each with fine coating.
9. Reduce oven to 350 - bake for another 20-25 minutes, or until golden brown.
10. Serve immediately - hot out of the oven.

Next is the Sujeonggwa, a Korean punch, and Peter got the recipe from his mother-in-law.

Ingredients:
dark brown sugar
fresh ginger root
cinnamon sticks
pine nuts
water (as much as you want to make)
dried persimmons (optional)*
*Originally, this drink was sweetened with dried persimmons, instead of sugar. But quality of dried persimmons are unreliable.

Directions:
1. Peel ginger, slice, slightly beat with spine of knife to release juices.
2. Put cold water in pot with sugar (or dried persimmons) and ginger and bring just to a boil.
3. Put in cinnamon sticks and refrigerate until completely chilled.
4. Finely strain within a couple hours after chilling.
5. Garnish with a few cleaned and lightly toasted pine nuts per cup.
6. Serve cold - even in winter.

Lastly, Peter provided me a recipe for a holiday side dish, Sweet Potato Gratin.

Ingredients:

sweet potatoes
garlic
shallot
dried apricots
chicken stock
clarified butter
kosher salt
finely ground white pepper

Directions:

1. Finely dice shallots - sweat off in clarified butter - no color.
2. Once shallots are opaque, add minced garlic - cook until raw smell has dissipated - no color.
3. Add chicken stock and finely chopped apricots - reduce to sludgy consistency.
4. Slice sweet potatoes finely (about 1/8") - rinse in cold water - pat dry on towels.
5. Barely coat the bottom of an oven-proof skillet with clarified butter.
6. Stagger potato slices, starting at the center and working outward in spiral pattern.
7. Once one layer is formed, season with salt and pepper - spread a thin layer of the apricot mixture.
8. Form another layer of potatoes - continue in this fashion until there are 4-5 layers (with potato the final, top layer).
9. Heat the pan on moderate heat - when it begins to sizzle, pour a small amount of clarified butter around the entire edge of the potatoes.
10. Continue gently shaking the pan and forming the round shape of the gratin with spoon or spatula.
11. Once it slides around the pan as a whole, place in 350 oven for about 20-25 minutes (until a cake tester or paring knife can pierce without resistance).
12. Allow to cool for 10-15 minutes and then place a like-sized plate on top the skillet and flip over.
13. Cut in pie shapes and serve.

Simpler methods:
--Made hours (or a day) in advance - reheated at 400 until sizzling.
--Made in a baking dish and cooked all the way in a 400 oven (covered with foil during first half of cooking - then uncovered).

Cook with passion!

The Dining Alternative & Chef Peter Ungár: Part 3

How can you get Chef Peter Ungár to prepare you such a fine dinner as the one I recently experienced?

If you are not lucky enough to get invited to one of his Chef's Table events, you can hire Peter to cook for you at your home through The Dining Alternative, which he considers to be his "private dining service." Peter differentiates this from traditional catering or a personal chef. What Peter's service entails is that he comes to your kitchen and cooks an entire meal there for you. He does not prepare any of the foods beforehand, like a caterer or personal chef would. Everything is prepared fresh before your eyes.

This service is generally intended to be to a special event, to have a high-end restaurant experience but within your own home for a group of your family and friends. Peter and his staff will do all of the work, from shopping to cooking, from serving to clean-up. You really have to do very little. They even have a sommelier available if you wish wine pairings. Plus, they have other extra services (such as flower arrangements and calligraphy seating cards), if desired, to enhance your event.

When you initially contact Peter, you can discuss the type of dinner you would like, and he can accomodate nearly any special dietary needs or requests. Together, you design the menu of your choice. Peter can supply wine or you could even have your own wine for the dinner. If you want to use your own wines, Peter can suggest dishes to pair with those wines. In general, Peter does multi-course dinners for 8-14 people, though he can do it for as many as 20 people. For larger groups, up to 50 people, he can prepare a hors d'oeuvre and cocktail reception.

Though I have not yet retained Peter for a dinner at my own home, I can attest to the quality of the food he prepares based on my Chef's Table experience. He is a very talented chef and his food was exquisite, similar to anything you would find at a fine restaurant.

I am sure this idea intrigues you but I know exactly the question you want to ask. How much does this cost? Obviously the cost will vary for each dinner dependent on the type of dinner you have, how many courses, the types of food, whether wine is included, etc. But, I can give you some idea for a comparison. I should also caveat this by stating that though the price might seem high at first, you need to examine the matter in its totality to see that it actually is very reasonably priced.

To duplicate the exact dinner I ate at the Chef's Table at your own home, it would have cost about $127 per person, without wine. This is how Peter would have broken down the cost of specific courses: Scallop Sashimi $19, Lobster Tortelloni $24, Fish/Foie/Truffles $36, Pork Belly $32, Pineapple Tatin $16. The amuse bouche, intermezzo, and mignardises would have been included in the price.

Though $127 per person seems expensive you must consider everything that is included in that price. You are basically hiring a team of servers and cooks to come into your home and prepare a multi-course dinner for you and your guests. Plus, consider the ingredients in the dishes I ate, from lobster to foie, from black truffles to pork belly. There are not cheap ingredients and your own dinner would not have to include so many luxury ingredients. Though Peter does always purchase the highest quality ingredients needed for the dishes he prepares.

There are no other hidden or extra fees though when you receive the contract price, the actual price can vary by 10%. This is because the market price of the ingredients that Peter uses wil vary, and Peter shops just before the date for the dinner to ensure freshness. But, you have a very good idea of the cost of your meal before you agree to anything.

One of the reasons why the price may be more reasonable than you initially think is the cost of wine. With the wine, you actually get a tremendous bargain that easily offsets the higher cost of the food. Peter only charges $10 per bottle above his cost, which is a wholesale price. So the wine will cost you far less than the exorbitant prices that restaurants charge.

Consider a bottle of wine that wholesales for $30 and which Peter charges you $40. It would normally retail around $50 but at a restaurant, the same bottle of wine would likely cost you at least $100, if not more. So, with Peter, you would have saved at least $60 off the cost of that wine at a restaurant. And if were dining with ten people, consider if you bought five bottles of that wine in restaurant, costing you at least $500. With Peter, those same bottles of wine would only cost you $200.

Now, if you had my Chef's Table five course dinner at a high-end restaurant, you would likely pay at least $75 and maybe up to a $100, dependent on the place. So while the food itself might be a bit less expensive at a restaurant, you will garner significant savings with the wine which will more than offset the increased cost of the food.

In the end, the price you would pay Peter for his dining service would be less than if you dined at a high-end restaurant, yet the food quality would be at least as good, if not better. The Dining Alternative is a service that would impress your family and friends. For your next special occasion, rather than dine out, why not call Peter and dine in. I know that I will be doing so in the near future.

Tomorrow, I'll post a few recipes from Peter....

The Dining Alternative & Chef Peter Ungár: Part 2

Now that the preliminaries are out of the way, now that we have finally taken our seats, it is time to begin our actual dinner. I am filled with anticipation, awaiting what culinary treasures I might soon find on my plate.

As a starter, we were presented with an Amuse-Bouche, Chawan Mushi with sea urchin, white truffle oil and white flake sea salt. This is a Japanese custard that was topped with a couple large pieces of sea urchin roe. This had an interesting taste, salty and savory with a dominant fish flavor. It was very smooth with the delicious silky sea urchin. A very nice beginning to the dinner, also indicating the promise of what was to come.

Interestingly, a couple days after the dinner I saw a recipe for Chawan Mushi in the January 2009 issue of Food and Wine magazine. Their recipe has different toppings though it appears you can top the custard with any variety of items.

Our first actual course was Sea Scallop Sashimi in Yuzu with avocado veloute, salmon roe, pomelo, and orange oil. This dish had large slices of Diver Scallop and the veloute sauce was made from avocado, soft tofu and three citrus juices. The scallops were topped by pieces of pomelo, salmon roe and Hawaiian black sea salt. The tender scallops were delicious with the combined flavors of the citrus and salt though I was not as fond of the veloute, mainly because I am not a big avocado fan. But that did not matter much to my enjoyment of the scallops. The black salt was especially intriguing and I will have to seek that out. I love sashimi so this was certainly a dish that appealed to my preferences.

To accompany the scallops, our second wine of the evening was the Non-Vintage Moet & Chandon Nectar Imperial. This is a blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier. It was a creamier champagne than the Ruinart with a touch of residual sugar that only added a slight hint of sweetness. The dominant flavors were apple and pear and I really enjoyed this Champagne. It had lots of character and paired beautifully with the scallops. I think this is a Champagne that would appeal to a broad range of people as it is not too yeasty or dry. Yet it is not overly sweet either.

Next up was one of my favorite courses of the evening, Fresh Maine Lobster Tortelloni with cepes, honshimeji, veal jus, and lobster essence. The large tortelloni were stuffed plump with lobster and cepes, a type of mushroom. Then the lobster essence was poured into the bowl with the honshimeji, another type of small mushroom. Finally, you received a shot glass of veal jus!

Peter stated this was a version of surf and turf and though you might not think the veal jus would go with this dish, it actually worked perfectly, adding an intriguing meaty flavor to the dish. Everything was so flavorful and the pasta was cooked just right. I even enjoyed the different mushrooms. I am very picky about mushrooms and they must be prepared just right. Any chef that can get me to enjoy mushrooms is definitely doing something very good.

The wine for this course was a 2004 Chateau Beaucastel Blanc, a fascinating white wine from the Chateauneuf-Du-Pape region of the Rhone in France. It is a blend of Viognier, Marsanne, Rousanne and a couple other grapes. It was fermented in 80% stainless steel and mostly old French oak. It had a tawny gold color with a potent, almost musty nose. Yet on the palate it exploded with flavor. It was a rich, full-bodied wine with tastes of apricot, lychi and exotic tropical fruits as well as having floral notes. A very unique wine which is supposed to pair well with pork. I thought it went well with the Tortelloni and was a fascinating wine on its own.

What was next? Halibut, Hedgehog, Foie Gras & Black Truffle that was steamed in Napa cabbage and had red and golden beet glazes. Essentially, the cabbage was wrapped around a long piece of the halibut which had been topped with the hedgehog mushrooms, foie and truffle slices. Another excellent dish with a harmonious blend of flavors and textures. the fish was pure white, tender and flaky while the foie and truffle were hedonistic delights. I even enjoyed the two different beet sauces, although I am not a fan of beets in general. Once again, this chef has gotten me to enjoy items that I usually would not like. With each course, Peter's culinary skills are impressing me more and more.

The wine to accompany this course was a 2007 Meyer Fonne Gentil, an Alsatian wine that is a blend of Muscat, Gewurtztraminer, Riesling and Pinot Blanc. I did not enjoy this wine as much as the others. It had a lemony nose and that lemon flavor was dominant in its taste as well. There was some interesting underlying spice, from the Gewurtz, but the lemon flavor overshadowed the rest of the flavors to me. Others at the table though enjoyed this wine very much. It just was not a favorite of mine.

It was now time for a bit of a breather and Peter had an Intermezzo for us to savor. It was Sujeonggwa, a type of Korean punch with ginger, cinnamon and pine nuts. He got the recipe from his Korean mother-in-law. It was almost like the flavor of spiced apple cider or even cold mulled wine. Yet it had its own individual taste and was a nice palate cleanser at this time. I could see this being an intriguing drink made at home if you were having a multi-course meal.



On to another favorite dish of mine, the Green Cardomon Brined Kurobuta Pork Belly with lentilles du puy, jerusalem artichoke mousseline, roasted romaine hearts, and butternut miso sauce. It basically took two days of cooking and preparation to make the Pork Belly and all that time certainly paid off. It was some of the most tender and flavorufl pork I have ever had, extremely meaty and with little fat. Each piece melted in my mouth and I treasured each savory bite. I think even vegetarians would have had a hard time turning down this pork. All of the accompaniments were delicious too, even the jerusalem artichoke mousseline. Yep, artichokes are not one of my favorites but this was quite good. I also eagerly devoured the lentilles which seemed to me to have an almost bacony taste.

Though I did not think this dish could get any better, it did. This was because of the wine pairing, the 2006 Domaine Tempier Bandol Rouge. I love this wine and it has long been one of my favorites. So, to have such a superb wine with the pork belly just made me ecstatic. This was foodie heaven, a perfect marriage of food and wine. This wine is 100% Mourvedre and is from what I consider the best winery in the Bandol region of France. This wine has everything going for it an it is something I highly recommend.

Dessert was a Pineapple Vanilla Bean Tarte Tatin with a persimmon and mascarpone mousse, sugared tarragon tempura, and tarragon creme anglaise. Even if you felt full, this dessert was sure to tempt you into eating more. An ecelctic combination of flavors that meshed very well together. The mousse was delicious, such a creamy rich taste. And who can complain about fresh pineapple slices? Definitely not me. Even the delicate tarragon tempura was a delightful and tasty touch. Peter admitted to not being much of a baker and that his desserts usually are fruit based. If they taste as good as this, that is fine in my book.

Our final wine of the evening was the amazing 1986 Pocas Colheita Tawny Port. This exemplifies the best of Port, that incredibly smooth taste with caramel, vanilla and even hints of butterscotch. It had no bitterness and such a satisfying and lengthy finish. A perfect ending to such a fantastic dinner.

Yet the food had not ended. We each received a small plate of Mignardise, including a rose water pomegranate gelee, kirschwasser chocolate truffle, and amaretti crisp. These homemade treats were each quite good and I ate them all, though I was not sure I had any room left in my stomach.

Our evening lasted almost five hours, and the time flew. It certainly did not feel that long, and it never does when you are enjoying yourself. This was a superb meal, as good as any that can be found at a high-end Boston restaurant. The quality, quantity and diversity of the dishes as well as the wine was exceptional, especially for only $75. You probably would be hard pressed to find any restaurant that would serve a comparable dinner with wine for that price.

Many of Peter's creations had an Asian flair, which I particularly enjoy. He certainly was creative in his dishes as well as having an excellent presentation. His culinary talent was quite evident and his assistants also well knew what they were doing. Everyone else at the dinner seemed as impressed and happy as I. I also did not hear complaints from anyone, only praise and compliments for the food and wine. I would return to the Chef's Table in a heart beat and I would heartily recommend it to everyone.

Tomorrow I will tell you more on how you can have Peter cook you such a delicious meal at your own home.

The Dining Alternative & Chef Peter Ungár: Part 1

I recently dined in someone's home and the five-course dinner was as exceptional as any fine dining restaurant in Boston. You can duplicate my experience and I strongly believe you will be thoroughly satisfied. Rather than making reservations at some high-end restaurant, you can eat at home and have the same high quality cuisine and still not have to cook or clean up after yourself.

How is that possible? Over the course of several posts during the next four days, I will explain all, as well as describing some incredible food and wine.

I was recently invited to attend a special Chef's Table dinner at the home of Chef Peter Ungár. Peter operates The Dining Alternative, a private dining service, and holds Chef''s Table events approximately once a month to showcase his culinary skills. I found Peter to be very pleasant, accomodating, down-to-earth, and mostly importantly, passionate. To me, it seems he cooks because he must, because he has a special drive within to excel in the culinary arts. His passion is quite evident and it is reflected in the food he prepares.

The Chef's Table dinner cost $75 per person for a five-course meal with wine pairings ($60 without wine), not an unreasonable price for such. Before making my reservation, I did not know what the menu would be. It was to be a secret, partially as Peter selects only the freshest ingredients so his menu is partially determined by what is available near the time of the dinner. I certainly had no problem with that, and I was able to peruse some sample menus from prior dinners so I had a basic idea of what I might find. The mystery of it all excited me and I very much looked forward what I would find.

Accompanied by my wife, we joined ten other strangers at the table above in Peter's living room/dining room/kitchen, a very spacious and homey room. This almost could have been anyone's home, with some children's toys in one spot, books shelves on another, a comfy couch, etc. Initially, we mingled with the other guests, learning who they were and why they had come. It was a diverse and fun crowd, obviously all people who savored good food and drink but also people from many different backgrounds such as a holistic health doctor and a financial advisor.

I did learn that a number of other food bloggers had been invited but none of them had decided to come. I don't know their reasons but I would have thought at least a few would have been intrigued by this culinary adventure. They did miss an excellent dinner and next time, if they are invited, they should make reservations for this event.

Above, you can see the kitchen staff. From left to right, you will find Quynh Dang, Antonio Lettieri, Chef Peter Ungár, and Scott Ryan. All of them were very pleasant and based on the food, quite skilled as well.

The kitchen was open and near the dining table so we had a close-up view of all of the work going during the entire evening. A true insider's view of a working kitchen. The kitchen staff had obviously worked together for some time as they operated as a well-oiled machine and I did not notice any misteps any of the times I watched them.

While we stood around mingling, we sipped some Ruinart Blanc de Blanc Champagne. Founded in 1729, Ruinart is the oldest Champagne house in France. This wine is a blend of 100% Chardonnay from different vintages. It had a pale yellow color and very few and tiny bubbles. It had a nose of citrus and spring flowers and much of that came through on the palate as well. A dry champagne with a touch of yeastiness and a dominant taste of nectarine.

All of the wines for the evening were specially selected to match the food by sommelier Scott Weinstein of the Martignetti Companies. He was accompanied by his colleague, Garret Vandermolen, who also talked about the wines during dinner. Both were very knowledgeable about wine and good conversationalists.

To accompany the champagne, we were served some Gruyere Cheese Gougères, pictured above. These cheese puffs were so addictive! Warm, light, crispy and with that delicious taste of Gruyere I so love. These are probably so simple to make yet they hooked me, placing me in a good mood and very hopeful that the rest of the dinner would be delicious. It is like a restaurant that serves warm bread before your meal, it sets the mood so well and makes you anticipate what is to come.

I think a number of restaurants miss out on the opportunity to hook their customers from the start, before their meals arrive. Drinks alone don't always set a sufficient mood. It may not seem like much, but warm bread, cheese puffs, or some similar little item can mean so much. They can be a stepping stone for the food that is to come, a welcome mat that entices the guest to enter. The same can work in reverse as well. A guest who receives ordinary, unwarmed bread may not begin the meal with a fully positive attitude. Remember, the little things can sometimes mean so much.

We eventually sat down at our assigned places at the table, strangely enough with all of the women at one end of the table and the men at the other. Coincidence? Peter told me that though the seating was intentional, he had not intended to separate the men and women as it worked out.

As I sipped more of the Ruinart, I pondered over what dishes I would soon be eating.

To Be Continued Tomorrow....