Showing posts with label germany wines. Show all posts
Showing posts with label germany wines. Show all posts

Tuesday, December 11, 2018

2018: Top Ten Wines Over $15 (But Under $50)

What were some of my favorite wines of the past year?

Welcome to my second Top Ten Wine List. Yesterday, I posted my Top Ten Wines Under $15, which I hope you enjoyed and found useful. Now it is time for my Top Ten Wines Over $15, though these wines also cost less than $50.

Like the prior list, this list includes wines that not only I enjoyed, but which I also found to be particularly compelling for various reasons. They might be especially delicious, something more unique or just excellent values for the price. They all stood out, for some particular reason, above the other wines at this price point that I have tasted this past year.

This is a purely subjective list, based on my own preferences, and makes no claims about being the "best" wines out there. It is primarily the wines which spoke to me the loudest, even when they were subtle wines. These are all wines that I highly recommend and which I believe many other wine lovers will also enjoy.

The wines are not listed in any particular order and each choice is linked to my more detailed prior review. All of these wines are worth your consideration but please also note that the prices are approximations and the actual price may vary in your area. In addition, some of the wines might not be available in your local region, though you might be able to order them from the winery or an online store, dependent on your state's shipping laws.

1) 2014 Domaine Albert Mann Extra Brut Crémant d'Alsace ($24)
This Crémant d'Alsace is a blend of Auxerrois, Pinot Blanc and Pinot Noir. With a fine golden color and a myriad of tiny bubbles, it possesses an alluring aroma, with elements of fresh fruit. On the palate, the Crémant is fresh, crisp and dry, with delicious flavors of green apple, pear and hints of lemon. Though it is fruit driven, there is complexity in the palate as well, with a touch of minerality and hints of spice. There is a light, elegant creaminess to this wine with a lengthy, pleasing finish, ending with more fruit notes. At this price point, it is also an excellent value.

2) 2014 Domaines Schlumberger "Les Princes Abbés" Pinot Noir ($25) Pinot Noir from Alsace is rare and that needs to change. This wine is produced from 100% Pinot Noir, from vines of an average age of 19 years. The wine is fermented in stainless steel and then aged on the lees for about 8 months in old wooden foudres. This is a wine of silky elegance, of bright, fresh red fruit flavors, a hint of spice, and a wisp of earthiness. Excellent acidity, some floral accents, soft tannins, and a lengthy, pleasing finish. Such a well balanced and delicious wine, its elegance is so compelling and its complex melange of flavors pleases me immensely.

3) 2016 Georges Duboeuf Domaine les Chenevieres, Macon-Villages ($21.99)
This French wine is made from 100% Chardonnay, with vines that are over 20 years old, this wine has a 12.5% ABV and sees only stainless steel. It has an interesting and fresh taste, lots of crispness with flavors of green apple and citrus, with a backbone of minerality, and a lingering finish. This wine would go very well with goat cheese, as well as many types of seafood.

4) 2016 Georges Duboeuf Jean Ernest Descombes, Morgon ($21.99)
Another French wine, fro the Morgon Cru, this wine is made from 100% Gamay (vines from 50-100 years old), with a 13% ABV. It was vinified and aged in cement tanks. It possesses a captivating aroma, one that quickly lures you into the bottle. The red and black fruit flavors are intense, with crisp acidity, spice notes, and an earthy undertone. It is elegant and complex, intriguing and delicious.  Many of my favorite Beaujolais wines come from the Morgon Cru and this is an excellent example of what that Cru has to offer.

5) 2015 Darting Winery Pinot Meunier ($21.99)
This German wine is made from 100% Pinot Meunier, from the Pfalz region, and has a 13.5% ABV. It is rare to find single varietal Pinot Meunier. This wine has a light red color, with a touch of sediment, and a mild, pleasing aroma of red fruit and spice. It is a light-bodied wine, subtle and elegant in its presentation, with delicious flavors of cherry and cranberry, a mild spicy backbone and a hint of earthiness. Nice acidity, a lingering finish, and interesting. Overall, it is delicious and paired perfectly with a dinner of lamb lollipops.

6) Gonzalez Byass La Copa Vermouth ($25)
Vermouth is actually a wine, an aromatized wine, and many people seem to forget that fact, which is why you rarely see Vermouth on Top Ten Wine lists. They are worthy though of more recognition. The La Copa Vermouth is a blend of 75% Oloroso Sherry and 25% Pedro Ximinez Sherry. It is rare to find any Vermouth made from Sherry. Some of the botanicals that are used in this Vermouth include wormwood, angelica, savory, clove, orange peel, nutmeg, quinine, and cinnamon. On the nose, its complexity is first experienced, a wonderful melange of spices, salted nuts, and citrus notes. On the palate, you will be intrigued by its complexity, balance and elegance. There is a superb blend of spices and herbs, with nuts, caramel, a touch of plum, candied orange and more. The Sherry influence is prominent and well integrated. There is balanced sweetness with hints of bitterness, exactly what you want from a fine vermouth. It's smooth with a lengthy, satisfying finish and is wonderful on its own, though it also works well in a Manhattan.

7) 2015 Post Scriptum de Chryseia ($20-$25)
This Portuguese wine is impressive, a blend of 64% Touriga Franca, 28% Touriga Nacional and 8% Tinta Roriz, spending about 12 months in French oak. It has bright red fruit flavors, nice acidity, a spicy backbone and an elegant nature. Definitely very approachable, with good complexity, a lengthy finish and a wine that is very food friendly. Simply delicious.

8) 2015 Bodegas Garzón Cabernet France Reserve ($27)
Uruguay is producing some interesting and delicious wines, and this wine, made from Cabernet France, is an impressive example of their potential. With a rich purple color, the wine has alluring aromas, lots of ripe fruit and hints of spice. On the palate, there are delicious black and blue fruit flavors, enhanced by mild spice notes and a hint of herbal notes. There isn't a prominent flavor of green peppers, which delights me. The tannins are well integrated, the finish lingers, and there is a touch of mint on the finish too. This would be a great wine to pair with grilled meats or even a pizza.

9) 2015 Scheid Vineyards Pinot Noir ($36)
From California, this wine is made from 100% Pinot Noir, a blend of grapes from two estate vineyards, and it is aged for about 9 months in neutral French oak. With a 14.1% ABV, the wine has an appealing nose of red and black fruits with a hint of spice. On the palate, the wine is light bodied and silky, with a complex melange of flavors, from cherry to blackberry, cranberry to plum, with subtle spice notes, a touch of vanilla, and a hint of smoke, especially on the lengthy finish. An elegant Pinot, this is a wine to slowly savor over the course of an evening.

10) 2015 Kocabağ Öküzgözü ($19.99)
This is the first wine from Turkey that I've ever reviewed and it won't be my last. Öküzgözü is an indigenous grape with high acidity and mild tannins, tending to make soft, easy drinking wines similar in some respects to Gamay or Pinot Noir. This wine possesses a medium-red color with an interesting nose of black cherry and raspberry, with a few spice notes. On the palate, it is light bodied, with plenty of acidity, and delicious ripe plum and black cherry flavors, enhanced by a mild earthiness and hints of spice. It has a very Old World feel to it, with mild tannins, a moderately lengthy finish, and is simply tasty.

This is always my toughest list to compile because there are numerous other excellent wines which I could have added. I had to ponder long over which wines to actually select for the main list, meaning that I had to eliminate other worthy wines. To give some credit to those other worthy wines, which almost made the Top Ten list, I have an Honorable Mention list. These are also wines you definitely should check out.

Honorable Mention
1) 2016 Alto do Joa Tinto ($15-$17)
This compelling Portuguese wine is a field blend of 20 grapes, including Alvarelhão, Bastardo, Chasselas Suíça, Cornifesto, Dona Branca, Folgasão, Formosa, Jaen, Mourisco, and Tinta Amarela. With a dark red color, and an alluring nose, I was captivated by this wine from my first taste. It is elegant and silky smooth, with well-integrated tannins, good acidity, and a touch of rusticness. Its complex melange of flavors includes ripe plum, black cherry, fig, dark spices, and a subtle earthiness. A long and lingering finish tantalizes and satisfies. It over delivers for the price and was pure pleasure on the palate.

Another Portuguese wine, this Sparking wine is made from 100% Touriga Nacional, which is certainly more unique. Almost a Rosé in color, and with tiny bubbles, there are mild red fruit notes on the aroma. As soon as I tasted a sip, bright berry flavors burst on my tongue, such a pleasurable taste and sensation. Dry and crisp, once I got past the berries, there were subtle notes of almond and plum, as well as a lingering finish. If I could have easily transported it home from Portugal, I would have bought a case of this bubbly.

Portugal is taking dominance on this Honorable Mention list. This Port has an amazing taste and aroma, being more dry than sweet, with concentrated black fruit flavors, notes of dried fruit, spicy accents, and plenty of complexity. Well balanced, this is a powerful Port yet still restrained, more elegant than muscular. And you can easily enjoy it now without a need for further aging. Pure deliciousness at a very reasonable price.

And one more Portuguese wine, a rare aged White Port, made from a blend of at least Malvasia Fina, Gouveio, Moscatel Galego, and Rabigato. It is fermented in traditional lagares, granite treading tanks where the grapes are trod on by foot. It was aged for about 9 months in stainless steel and then for at least more 20 years in wooden casks. Sniffing your glass, you'll be seduced by an alluring blend of honey, floral and herbal scents, with wisps of citrus. On the palate, the complexity of the aromas is still evident, with each sip bringing something new to your mouth. There is a mild sweetness, well balanced by its acidity, with bright honey notes, citrus flavors, and touches of herbs. It is more full bodied and rich, with a long, lingering finish that soothes and satisfies. It is well worth the effort to seek it out, especially due to its complexity and superb taste.

This fascinating Sherry is produced from Palomino grapes all sourced from the Macharnudo Alto, making it a single-vineyard Sherry, which is rare in the Sherry industry. It is also one of the few Sherries that is still fermented in cask, in American oak, with nearly all other Sherries fermented in stainless steel. This Amontillado begins its life by spending from eight to twelve years under flor, like a Fino Sherry, and then spent another five to eight years without flor, aging oxidatively, averaging about 16-18 years in total. This Sherry has a compelling aroma, and the complex taste is nutty with rich caramel, vanilla and spice, as well as lots of acidity. It also possesses a long and pleasing finish. When I think of this Sherry, I think of it as delicious and comforting, fueling my belly and soul.

An En Rama Sherry is unfiltered or lightly filtered, which tends to produce a Sherry that is more intense and complex. With a 15% ABV, the Tio Pepe Fino En Rama has a bright golden color and is aromatic, with intriguing notes of toast and the briny nature of the sea. On the palate, it is fresh and dry, with a complex and intense melange of citrus, almonds, and the taste of the ocean. The finish has a tinge of bitterness, which doesn't detract from the taste, and lingers on your palate for quite a time. It is not as light and subtle as more heavily filtered Fino Sherries. I'm a big fan of this style and love the intense expressiveness of this Tio Pepe.

Made from 100% Pinot Noir, this Alsace bubbly is produced by the méthode champenoise and remains on the lees for about 12 months. With an appealing nose of red fruits and a touch of spice, this is a delicious and lush Crémant with ripe flavors of strawberry, cherry and raspberry. Dry, crisp, and clean, with a fine effervescence, this is a true crowd pleaser. At this price, it is an excellent value for the taste and complexity found within the bottle. 

This Italian wine is made from 100% Sangiovese, which spent about 24 months in oak, 20% in small barriques, and 1 year in the bottle. It is made in a more traditional style, which is my preference, and is quite good, with nice acidity, notes of cherry and black fruit, mild spice notes, and low tannins. It is delicious, but definitely does best when paired with food, especially meat or a hearty dish. To me, this is an example of a very good traditional Chianti Classico.

From Uruguay, thus wine is made from 100% Albarino, selected from the best seven plots in the vineyard. About 80% of the grapes were fermented in large, concrete tanks (without epoxy) and the rest were fermented in untoasted oak barrels. The wine spent about 8 months on the lees. This is an impressive wine, elegant and complex, something meant to be slowly sipped and savored. It has a richer texture, great acidity, and more savory notes with only underlying and subtle fruit notes. The finish is long and satisfying, simply a stellar wine. 

10) 2015 Windvane Carneros Pinot Noir ($45)
This California Pinot Noir, from the Carneros region, possesses a medium red color and an enticing aroma of red fruit with mild, underlying spice notes. On the palate, the complex wine presents delicious and intense flavors of red cherry and blackberry, enhanced by mild spice notes and plenty of acidity. Medium-bodied, the finish is fairly lengthy and satisfying, ending with a silky crispness. Paired with Chinese sausages, the acidity of the wine helped to balance the sweetness of the sausages, and its flavors worked well with the spices and flavors of the sausage.

Summary

Eight wine countries and regions made the list this year, the same amount as last year. France dominates, occupying four spots, which include two wines from the Alsace region. The rest of the list is occupied by Germany, Spain, Portugal, Uruguay, Turkey and California. The list is also broken down into one Sparkling wine, one Aromatized wine, one White wine and seven Red wines.

On the Honorable Mention list, six countries made the list, compared to seven last year. Portugal dominates this list, with four spots, and Spain takes second place with two spots. The rest of the spots were taken by France (Alsace), Italy, Uruguay, and California. The list is also broken down into two Sparkling wines, four Fortified wines, three Red wines, and one White wine. Last year, there weren't any Fortified wines on this list.

When you combine the two lists, France (with three from Alsace) and Portugal are tied for first place, each with five spots. In comparison, last year's leader of this combined list was the country of Georgia with four spots, while Portugal had two spots and France only one. This year, Spain occupied three spots while Uruguay and California both had two spots. Rounding out the combined list are Germany, Turkey and Italy, each with one spot. In addition, the combined list includes three Sparkling wines, four Fortified wines, one Aromatized wine, two White wines, and ten Red wines.

I have plenty of other recommendations for wines at this price point on my blog. There are top notch wines from countries all over the world, made from an incredibly diverse selection of grapes and you can still find plenty of values too. My advice is that you seek out wines outside of your comfort zone. Explore the multitude of diversity in the wonderful world of wine. Taste and try anything new, unique or potentially interesting. I am sure your search will lead to new favorites.

If you have some of your own recommendations for wines that are over $15 but under $50, please add them to the comments.

Monday, December 10, 2018

2018: Top Ten Wines Under $15

What were some of my favorite wines of the past year?

As 2019 approaches, it's time once again to reflect upon the past year, to remember and savor many pleasant memories. As 2018 winds down, I'll be posting my annual series of Favorite Lists over the next few weeks, covering food, wine, spirits and other drinks. These lists should provide a comprehensive summary of my favorites from this past year, allowing my readers to more readily locate such gems, the best of my recommendations.

My first Favorites List of 2018 is my Top Ten Wines Under $15. This list includes wines that not only I enjoyed, but which I also found to be particularly compelling for various reasons. They might be especially delicious, something more unique or just excellent values for the price. They all stand out, for some particular reason, above the other wines at this price point that I have tasted this past year.

This is a purely subjective list, based on my own preferences, and makes no claims about being the "best" wines out there. It is primarily the wines which spoke to me the loudest, even when they were subtle wines. These are all wines that I strongly recommend and which I believe many other wine lovers would also enjoy.

The wines are not listed in any particular order and each choice is linked to my more detailed prior review. All of these value wines are worth your consideration but please also note that the prices are approximations and the actual price may vary in your area. In addition, some of the wines might not be available in your local region, though you might be able to order them from the winery or an online store, dependent on your state's shipping laws.

1) 2018 Les Vins Georges Duboeuf Beaujolais Nouveau Rosé ($13.99)
This is the first year that this wine was imported into the U.S. and it made an impressive debut. With a bright pink color, this wine has a nose of bright red fruit, and on the palate, those red fruit flavors, especially strawberry and cherry are prominent, though with minor notes of citrus too. It is dry and crisp, with some underlying minerality, and has a pleasing, though short, finish. Easy drinking, it is an excellent food wine and a very good value.

2) NV Vilarnau Cava Brut Reserva ($14.99)
This Spanish Cava is a blend of 50% Macabeo, 35% Paralleda; 15% Xarel.lo, three indigenous grapes, and is aged for over 15 months in the bottle. With a nice golden color, small bubbles, and 11.5% ABV, this Cava presents a pleasing aroma of fruit, including apple and citrus. On the palate, it is fresh, crisp and dry, with a tasty blend of green apple, citrus and pear, enhanced with a touch of toast, and a moderately long finish. For inexpensive bubbly, it is an appealing choice.

3) 2015 Schlossmühlenhof Dornfelder Rotwein Trocken ($14.40/liter)
This German red wine, made from the Dornfelder grape, has a deep, opaque red, almost purplish, color. On the nose, it is appealing, with enticing black fruit flavors enhanced by mild floral and spice notes. On the palate, it is silky, with mild tannins, and a delicious melange of juicy black fruit, intense spice and nice acidity. It is more elegant rather than powerful, with a lingering, pleasing finish. There is plenty of complexity for a wine at this price point and is a sheer pleasure to drink. This is definitely a food-friendly wine, a versatile wine that pairs well with pizza to tuna. And at this price, for a full liter, it is a fantastic bargain.

4) 2017 San Felice Perolla Rosato ($12)
A blend of 65% Sangiovese and 35% Cabernet Sauvignon, this Italian Rosé is made in the saignee process. It has an alluring aroma and is pure deliciousness on the palate. Light bodied, crisp and dry, with bright red fruits (especially strawberry) and a savory touch. Refreshing and an excellent summer wine, it will also pair well with a variety of foods. I bought a case of this wine to enjoy during the summer and continued drinking some into the fall.

5) 2017 Planeta Rosé ($14)
This Sicilian Rosé is a blend of 50% Nero d'Avola & 50% Syrah and I believe it to be an excellent value wine. It is crisp, light and full of tasty red fruit flavors, from strawberry to raspberry, with subtle hints of peach. Easy to drink, very food friendly, and perfect year round. I've been a fan of this winery for a number of years  and this is definitely one of their best wines under $15.

6) 2016 Feudo Maccari Noto Nero d'Avola ($14)
Another Sicilian wine, this red is silky smooth, with bright cherry, raspberry and plum flavors, enhanced by some pepper and spice notes. Nice acidity, well-restrained tannins, and a fairly long finish. It is an easy drinking wine, which can be enjoyed on its own though it also pairs well with plenty of dishes, from pasta to pizza, burgers to hotdogs. Simply delicious.

7) 2015 Dow's Vale do Bomfim ($12.99)
Portugal offers plenty of excellent value wines, which is why you often see them on my annual lists. This Portuguese red wine is a blend of 40% Touriga Franca, 25% Touriga Nacional and 35% Field Blend. It spent about 9 months in neutral oak, and presents as a light bodied wine, with cherry and plum flavors, mild spice notes, and low tannins. For a wine of this price point, it is moderately complex with some intriguing licorice notes on the finish. Definitely a good value wine!

8) 2017 Quinta de Covela Avesso (About $12)
My trip to Portugal this year led me to some fine vinous treasures, including this Portuguese white wine. It is made from 100% Avesso, an indigenous grape, which makes it more unique. The aromas are subtle, with hints of peach and pear, and on the palate, the wine is crisp, dry and fruit, with bright tastes of pear, green apple and a hint of more tropical fruit. With a medium-body, the wine is certainly delicious and mouth-watering, with a pleasing and fairly long finish. Easy-drinking, this wine is enjoyable on its own, or paired with seafood, light chicken dishes, and more.

9) 2017 Quinta de Covela Touriga Nacional Rosé (About $12-$13)
From the same winery as the Avesso, this Rosé, made from 100% Touriga Nacional, possesses a very pale pink color and its aroma is almost savory, with mild notes of red fruits. On the palate, it is light and crisp, dry and elegant, with delicious notes of strawberry and cherry, as well as wisps of floral notes. Such a fine example of Rosé and definitely the style I prefer. Another excellent value wine.

10) 2016 Quinta do Vallado Douro Red (About $10-$12)
Also encountered during my trip to the Douro region, this Portuguese red wine is s a blend of 25% Touriga Franca, 25% Touriga Nacional, 25% Tinta Roriz, 5% Sousão and 25% mixed grapes from old vineyards. About 70% of the wine is aged for 16 months in stainless steel tanks while 30% is aged in 225 liters used French Oak barriques for 16 months. With a nose of red fruit and spice, this was also an easy drinking and delicious wine, with prominent cherry and raspberry notes and spice accents. Low tannins, good acidity and a pleasing finish. A wine for everyday drinking, which would pair well from burgers to pizza.

Five countries made the list this year, the same as last year. Portugal took the lead with four spots on the list (not a surprise in the least), followed by Italy with three spots. Germany, Spain and France each occupied one spot. Last year, Alsace took three spots on this list but isn't included this year, though you will see their wines on another of my Favorite Wine lists. As for wine types, the list is also broken down into four Rosé, one White, four Reds and one Sparkling. Last year, there weren't any Rosé wines on this list.

The cancellation of of the 2018 Boston Wine Expo certainly affected this list as I usually find several excellent value wines there which then end up on this list. It also seemed that I found less wines, new to me, under $15 this past year. That may be indicative that wine prices have actually been rising, as a number of news sources have predicted they would this year.

I have other recommendations for wines under $15 on my blog and you just have to search for them. Even if some wine prices are rising, you can still find value wines all over the world, in every region, though some regions provide a greater range and diversity of value wines. It is important to remember that though wine stores sell plenty of wines in this price range, not all of them are of equal value. Wines in this price range do not have to be one-dimensional wines that all taste the same.

You can find wines of character and complexity, though you might need to spend a little more time seeking them out. Wine blogs can help you in that regard, pointing out wines that you might not otherwise know about. Tasting the wines before you buy them is another way to find such values. Or simply ask your trusted wine store staff for advice and suggestions. For more advice on finding value wines, please check out my recent article on the subject.

If you have some of your own recommendations for excellent wines under $15, please add them to the comments.

Tuesday, April 10, 2018

2015 Darting Pinot Meunier: A German Delight

It's a grape used in a very popular type of wine but many consumers probably don't realize it is used in that wine. When consumers think about Champagne, both Chardonnay and Pinot Noir immediately come to mind. However, far fewer people realize that Champagne may commonly include Pinot Meunier as well. Though Pinot Meunier often constitutes only a small percentage in the blend, there are some Champagnes where it actually is the most dominant grape. It is also rare to find Pinot Meunier standing on its own in a still wine, but I think that needs to change.

At the wine store where I work, the Beacon Hill Wine & Gourmet in Melrose, the Brack Mountain Fable Pinot Meunier (Russian River Valley) sells extremely well. It is a delicious wine, which the staff often recommends, and the customers love it. After taking a chance on a bottle, customers often return, wanting to buy more. Consumers simply need to be educated about Pinot Meunier, and be willing to take a chance on it. Once they do, they will likely enjoy it.

The history of Pinot Meunier extends at least as far back as the 16th century, and its name "Meunier" derives from the French word for "miller," a person who grinds grain into flour. It received this name as the underside of the leaves of the vine commonly have a layer of white hairs, which is thought to resemble a dusting of flour. The grape is also sometimes known as Müllerrebe, Müller-Traube and Schwarzriesling. You'll find Pinot Meunier planted in France, Germany, California, Oregon, Austria, Switzerland, New Zealand, Australia and other regions. However, it is still difficult to find still wines made from Pinot Meunier at most local wine shops.

On my recent food exploration of West Concord, I stopped by West Concord Wine & Spirits, to check out their selection, and found a German Pinot Meunier. Without knowing anything else about it, I bought a bottle, intrigued as it was the first time I had found such a wine from Germany.

In Germany, there are approximately 5,800 acres of Pinot Meunier (based on figures from 2008), constituting about 5% of the total vineyard acreage of the country. Most of the plantings, about 4300 across, are found in the region of Württemberg. The grape is also found in Baden (657 acres), Pfalz (398 acres), Franken (222 acres), and Rheinhessen (200 acres).

The 2015 Darting Winery Pinot Meunier ($21.99) is produced from a winery with roots extending back to 1780, but the winery didn't start selling wine under their own label until 1989. Located primarily in the Bad-Dürkheim area, their winemaker is Helmut Darting, who conducts minimal-intervention winemaking. For example, he uses only natural yeasts and ferments slowly under cold temperatures. They also tend to use large oak casks for aging, locally sourced and made. The winery currently has about 25 hectares of vineyards, with an annual production of about 21,000 cases.

This is a Terry Thiese wine, and had this to say about the winery, "Darting remains my icon of the perfect “commercial” winery, offering charming easygoing wines at excellent prices, bearing slightly fuddy-duddy labels, and hardly registering on the edgy stream, but that’s fine by me. The wines delight, over-deliver and are incredibly useful, and these things matter too—and matter more." As for the Pinot Meunier, Terry also said, "The wine speaks well for itself. It tastes very good! People will like it. We need to get past a really incoherent assumption that if the place or the label is unheard-of, the wine will taste weird. That’s only seldom true and it isn’t true here."

The 2015 Darting Winery Pinot Meunier is made from 100% Pinot Meunier, from the Pfalz region, and has a 13.5% ABV. It has a light red color, with a touch of sediment, and a mild, pleasing aroma of red fruit and spice. It is a light-bodied wine, subtle and elegant in its presentation, with delicious flavors of cherry and cranberry, a mild spicy backbone and a hint of earthiness. Nice acidity, a lingering finish, and interesting. Overall, it was delicious and paired perfectly with a dinner of lamb lollipops. We easily finished the bottle and I wish I'd had another. Highly recommended.

Monday, February 5, 2018

2015 Schlossmühlenhof Dornfelder: A Great Choice At Bin Ends

When most people think of German wines, Riesling is the first to come to mind. That isn't a surprise as it is their most widely planted grape and they certainly excel in its production. However, many people know little about the red wines being produced in Germany, despite red grapes occupying about 35% of their vineyards. Part of the problem is that many local wine stores don't usually carry German red wines. Germany's most widely planted red grape is Spätburgunder, their name for Pinot Noir, but they also make wines from red grapes such as Trollinger and Lemberger.

While perusing the wines at Bin Ends, I found a German red wine made from another less commonly known grape, Dornfelder. I'd very limited prior experience with this grape but this wine was inexpensive and I was willing to give it a try. In the end, I was extremely pleased I had taken the chance on this delicious wine.

The 2015 Schlossmühlenhof Dornfelder Rotwein Trocken ($14.40/1 Liter) is produced from a winery whose roots extend back to 1846, when Johan Michel, a miller, purchased the Schlossmühle ("castle mill"), located in a region of rolling hills that each to the foot of the Wartberg mountain. The family began selling wine prior to the 1940s and currently the sixth generation of the family owns and operates the winery and estate. Their high altitude, cool climate and limestone soils help to produce unique, terroir-driven and high-quality wines.

The Dornfelder grape is an intriguing cross of two other grapes, Helfensteiner and Heroldrebe, though both of these grapes are also crosses of other grapes. Helfensteiner is a cross of Pinot Noir and Shiava while Heroldrebe is a cross of Portugieser and Blaufrankisch. Dornfelder is named after August Ludwig Dornfeld, who played a significant role in creating a famed viticultural school in Weinsberg. The grape received official authorization in 1980 and is currently grown on about 20,000 acres, making it the second most widely grown red grape in Germany. It is especially prized because it usually produces wines with a rich, dark red color rather than the paler colors of Pinot Noir.

The 2015 Schlossmühlenhof Dornfelder Rotwein Trocken, at only 13.5% ABV, certainly presented with a deep, opaque red, almost purplish, color. On the nose, it was appealing, with enticing black fruit flavors enhanced by mild floral and spice notes. On the palate, it was silky, with mild tannins, and a delicious melange of juicy black fruit, intense spice and nice acidity. It was more elegant rather than powerful, with a lingering, pleasing finish. There was plenty of complexity for a wine at this price point and is was a sheer pleasure to drink, especially with a couple of burgers. This was definitely a food-friendly wine, a versatile wine that would pair well with pizza to tuna. Highly recommended.  

At $14.40 for a liter, the price for a 750ml bottle of this wine would have been about $11, making this a killer value. I already know that this excellent wine is going to end up on my 2018 list of Top Ten Wines Under $15. Hurry down to Bin Ends before this wine is gone.

Monday, December 11, 2017

2017: Top Ten Wines Over $15 (But Under $50)

What were some of my favorite wines of the past year?

Welcome to my second Top Ten Wine List. Last week, I posted my Top Ten Wines Under $15, which I hope you enjoyed and found useful. Now it is time for my Top Ten Wines Over $15, though these wines also cost less than $50.

Like the prior list, this list includes wines that not only I enjoyed, but which I also found to be particularly compelling for various reasons. They might be especially delicious, something more unique or just excellent values for the price. They all stand out, for some particular reason, above the other wines at this price point that I have tasted this past year.

This is a purely subjective list, based on my own preferences, and makes no claims about being the "best" wines out there. It is primarily the wines which spoke to me the loudest, even when they were subtle wines. These are all wines that I highly recommend and which I believe many other wine lovers will also enjoy.

The wines are not listed in any particular order and each choice is linked to my more detailed prior review. All of these wines are worth your consideration but please also note that the prices are approximations and the actual price may vary in your area. In addition, some of the wines might not be available in your local area, though you might be able to order them from the winery or an online store, dependent on your state's shipping laws. Please also note that this is technically a Top 12 list as three Sherries are tied at one spot.

1) Julien Brand La Bulle De L'Oueste Petillant Brut ($20.00)
A Sparkling Muscadet? This was my first such wine and it won't be the last. Made from 100% Melon de Bourgogne grape, this French wine is certified organic and was fermented by the Methode Ancestrale, also known as Pétillant-Naturel. It has a low 9.8% ABV, meaning you can have an extra glass without worrying much about getting too tipsy. As I raised the flute to my nose, visually delighted by the tiny bubbles, I was entranced with this wine, loving its appealing and intense aromas, such beautiful fruit with a wisp of the ocean. On the palate, there was lots of crisp acidity, delicious citrus notes, and a steely minerality with an herbal hint. It was fresh and tasty, each sip making you crave more. Highly recommended!

2) 2016 Vigneto Saetti Lambrusco Salamino di Santa Croce ($18.99)
This Italian Sparkling Lambrusco was produced from 100% Salamino di Santa Croce, from 40+ year old organic vines. The wine was a deep, almost purple color, with an alluring aroma of berries, violets, mild spices, and a hint of earthiness. On the palate, it has a creamy effervescence, with enticing, dry and juicy flavors of black cherry, raspberry, and ripe plum, with an underlying earthiness and mild spice notes. The tannins are well-integrated, the acidity is strong, and the finish is lengthy and pleasing. It was easy drinking but with plenty of complexity, the type of addictive wine which you'll likely finish the entire bottle before you know it.

3) 2011 Artevani Qvevri Aged Rkatsiteli ($30-$35)
One of the top three wines I enjoyed at the Boston Wine Expo, this Georgian wine is impressive on many levels. Artevani is a family-owned winery, seeking to produce more natural wines, reflective of terroir, and combining ancient traditions with modern technology. This wine is made from 100% Rkatsiteli, from seventy-year old vines, and is fermented in qvevri for about 24 days and then aged in qvevri for another 8-12 months. With a rich amber color, the wine presented with a fascinating aroma, an alluring mix of herbs, spices, and dried fruits. On the palate, I found a complex and intriguing melange of flavors and it was actually difficult to describe everything happening in my mouth. It was full bodied, with nice acidity, and a lengthy and satisfying finish. This is the type of wine you slowly savor, enjoying the new and surprising flavors you encounter with each sip.

4) 2016 Valdespino Ojo de Gallo Palomino Fino ($15.99)
This Spanish wine is made from 100% Palomino Fino, the grape usually used to produce Sherry, but the producer chose to make an unfortified version. The organically cultivated grapes are 20-25 years old. Fermentation occurs in stainless steel tanks with indigenous yeasts, and then it is aged for about 6 months on the fine lees. With a 12% ABV, it has a nice golden color and the nose reminded me immediately of a Fino Sherry. On the palate, it also was reminiscent of Fino Sherry with a bright salinity, citrus flavors, a strong minerality backbone and savory notes. It was crisp and very dry, with a lengthy and pleasing finish. It was fresh, elegant and complex, an intriguing wine that certainly shows the potential for Palomino Fino in unfortified, still wines.

Bonny Doon Vineyard, based in Santa Cruz, California, produces a fascinating range of intriguing and delicious wines. Another of my top three wines from the Boston Wine Expo was their 2014 Clos de Gilroy “Cuvée Particuliere", which is produced mainly from Grenache with a little bit of Mourvedre. It was more of an Old-World style wine, with bright red fruit flavors, some peppery notes and a mild earthiness. It was complex and intriguing, an elegant and delicious wine that calls out for lamb or wild boar, or a hearty Italian ragu. The wine easily seduced my palate and it was hard to refrain from draining the bottle on my own.

6) 2015 Metrick Mourvèdre ($31)
Alex Russan, with his Alexander Jules Sherries, has been on these prior lists multiple times and this year he earns a spot for his non-Sherry wines. His Metrick Wines explore the different wine regions of California and the 2015 Metrick Mourvèdre is a blend of 85% Mourvedre, 5% Marsanne, 5% Counoise, and 5% Syrah. The wine was fermented in 50% stainless steel and 50% concrete. 95% of the juice was free run, and it was then aged for about 11 months in concrete. It was bottled unfined and unfiltered, and has a 12% ABV. This wine was thoroughly impressive, a light bodied and savory elixir. A complex blend of herbs, olives and earthiness dominated the taste, with subtle hints of berry. It was so ethereal on the palate, with a compelling taste, including a lingering finish, which made me crave a second and third glass. I would pair this with an herbed, roast chicken or a mushroom risotto, or maybe a venison steak.

7) 2015 Alapiani Shavkapito ($25)
Another Georgian wine, I was thoroughly impressed with this wine produced from the indigenous Shavkapito grape which is even in Georgia. Its name means "vine with a black cane" and is said to be terroir-reflective. The grapes were sourced from a vineyard in the Okami village of the Shida Kartli region and the wine was fermented and aged in qvevri. With an alluring aroma of black fruit and herbs, the wine presented with a fascinating melange of flavors, including ripe plum, blackberry and black cherry, along with herbal accents, a smoky note, and a touch of spice. Lots of complexity, smooth tannins and a lengthy, pleasing finish.

8) 2016 1865 Pinot Noir ($18)
Finding excellent Pinot Noir for under $20 is difficult so I was extremely taken with this Chilean wine. Made from 100% Pinot Noir, from the El Platero Vineyard in the Valle Del Elqui, the wine was aged for about eight months in a combination of foudres, concrete eggs and barrels. With a 13.5% ABV, the wine has a light red color, and an alluring and complex nose of red fruits and touches of earth and spice. Those aromas will draw you in and you won't be disappointed once you taste it. The wine is elegant and light bodied, with a complex and fascinating melange of flavors, including bright red cherry, more subdued black cherry, subtle spice notes, and underlying hints of earthiness. There was excellent acidity, mineral notes, and a lingering, satisfying finish. It was well-balanced and compelling, reminding me in different ways to Burgundian Pinot as well as Oregonian Pinot, yet still with its own unique character.

9) 2013 Ktima Gerovassiliou Avaton ($47)
I love Greek wines and this is a killer wine, compelling and delicious. It is a blend of three indigenous Greek grapes, including 50% Limnio, 25% Mavrotragano & 20% Mavroudi. This wine is fermented and aged in French oak, has a 14% ABV, and has an inky dark red color, with an alluring aroma of black fruit, mild spice, and a touch of earthiness. On the palate, the wine is muscular and big, though it is still elegant and the tannins are well restrained. There are complex & rich flavors of ripe plum, black cherry, and blackberry, enhanced by a spicy backbone, good acidity, and a hint of herbs. It is delicious and well-balanced, with a lengthy, pleasing finish. It would be great paired with hearty dishes, from a grilled steak to a leg of lamb.

10) 2016 Rară Neagră de Purcari ($22-$23)
Another tasty wine from Moldova, this Rară Neagră de Purcari was impressive, luring me in from my first sniff of its compelling aroma. The wine is made from 100% Rară Neagră, was fermented in stainless steel, aged in French oak barriques and has a 14% ABV. The aroma is very savory, with black fruit accents and subtle spicy notes. On the palate, it is medium-bodied, with soft tannins and good acidity. It presents an intriguing melange of bold flavors, ripe black fruit, spicy notes, hints of vanilla, and an almost meaty undertone. A lengthy finish completes this well balanced and delicious wine.

This is always my toughest list to compile because there are numerous other excellent wines which I could have added. I had to ponder long over which wines to actually select for the main list, meaning that I had to eliminate other worthy wines. To give some credit to those other worthy wines, which almost made the Top Ten list, I have an Honorable Mention list. These are also wines you definitely should check out.

Honorable Mention

1) 2015 Metrick Chardonnay ($36)
This Metrick Chardonnay is made with grapes from the Sierra Madre Vineyard, planted in 1971 and sustainably farmed, in the Santa Maria AVA. The wine was fermented in stainless steel and aged on the lees, in stainless, for about 11 months. It underwent malolactic fermentation, allowing it to be bottled unfiltered, and has a 12% ABV. I found this wine to be crisp and clean, with bright citrus notes and some minerality. There was some richness in the mouthfeel and it came across as elegant and delicious. I paired this wine with some stuffed clams and it was an excellent pairing. It was obvious that this Chardonnay would be perfect with seafood, from sushi to oysters.

2) 2015 Batono Qvevruli Tetri ($20)
This Georgian wine is an intriguing blend of three indigenous grapes, 40% Kisi, 40% Mtsvane and 20% Rkatsiteli. It was produced in both qvevri and oak, and was a fascinating and delicious wine with a unique melange of spice, dried fruit, herbal accents and a touch of eucalyptus. Each sip brought a new flavor combination to my palate and this is a very good value wine to savor and enjoy over time. This wine would work well with seafood dishes and roast chicken.

3) 2016 Alpha Estate Rosé ($19.99)
You should enjoy Rosé year-round and this Greek Rosé should please you. Made from 100% Xinomavro, it spent two months on the lees and has a 13% ABV. With a bright pink color, this wine has a delightful fruity nose and on the palate, it is crisp, dry and fruity, with tasty flavors of strawberry and cherry and subtle floral notes. It has a medium-body, with a lengthy, satisfying finish.  This would certainly be a food-versatile wine, from oysters to burgers, roasted chicken to pizza. Though sipping it on its own, while relaxing poolside, would be quite the pleasure as well.

4) 2013 Adega de Borba Reserve ($18-$19)
Another excellent value Portuguese wine, this is a blend of Aragonez, Trincadeira, Castelão and Alicante Bouschet. The wine spent about 12 months in French oak, and then another 6 months in the bottle. This is a delicious, complex wine and though it is also powerful in some respects, that power is restrained within a velvet glove, presenting a silky smooth taste. There are lush black fruit flavors, plenty of intriguing spice notes, and some exotic herbal accents. This is another wine which would benefit from pairing with meat dishes.

5) 2013 Vallegre Vinhas Velhas Reserva Especial (about $21)
Another tasty Portuguese wine, this is an intriguing blend of Tinta Amarela, Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Sousão and Tinta Francisca, from 60+ year old vines. It presents as deep and dark, complex and smooth, spicy and tannic. Concentrated flavors of Rich ripe plum and flavors, with hints of chocolate and leather. A well-balanced wine with plenty of acidity and a lengthy, satisfying finish. So much going on in this wine, it is sure to impress.

6) 2015 Artevani Saperavi ($24)
The Georgian winery of Artevani also produced a compelling organic Saperavi, made from an old recipe and which sees no oak. With a dark red color, it presented with a fruity aroma, and a rich palate of red fruits with a hint of earthiness. It was smooth, with low tannins, good acidity, and a lengthy, pleasing finish. A wine that would pair well with plenty of different foods, from pizza to burgers.

7) 2011 Ktima Biblia Chora Biblinos ($35)
Another fascinating Greek wine, the Biblia Chora Biblinos is made from 100% of an unknown grape that was discovered on the slopes of Mount Pangeon. DNA testing couldn't identify the grape but it was able to verify that it was vitis vinifera, of Greek origin. Essentially this is a lost grape, one whose origins could extend back to the ancient Greeks, and it might never be identified. The wine was fermented in stainless steel and then aged in French oak for about 12 months. With a 14.5% ABV, the wine is inky dark in color with an interesting aroma of black fruit with some light floral notes, like wild violets. On the palate, there is an intriguing and complex melange of flavors, with ripe plum, blueberry and black cherry up front and leading to some spicy and savory notes, especially on the long and lingering finish. Good acidity, some rich voluptuousness up front, and well-integrated tannins. The savory aspect, hints of herbs and roast meat, was compelling and I was well enamored with this wine.

8) 2013 Ramat Negev Ramon Petit Verdot ($39.99)
This Israeli winery saw its origins back in 1997, with a desire to establish a winery that was based only on local produce. Their Petit Verdot, from a single vineyard, spent about 18 months in new French oak and then six months in the bottle. With a powerful spicy aroma, this wine is deep and dark but with restrained tannins. It possesses juicy blackberry and plum flavors with a touch of blueberry, a spicy aspect, and a lengthy, pleasing finish. This is a wine that is probably best paired with food and it should also impress many wine lovers.

9) 2015 Survivor Pinotage ($18-$20)
This South African wine is made from 100% Pinotage and it was aged in 95% French and 5% American oak for about 18 months. Pinotage can be a divisive grape but I've always been a fan, and this example was compelling. I found it to be smoky and spicy, with deep flavors of plum and black cherry, with hints of vanilla, spice and bacon. The tannins were well integrated, it had a lengthy finish, and would be an excellent accompaniment with lamb, steak, or other roasted meats.

10) 2014 Enderle & Moll Basis Pinot Noir ($30)
Pinot Noir is probably not something you think of much when you consider German wines but maybe you should based on this fine example. It has only an 11.5% ABV, an amazingly low alcohol level compared to most other Pinot Noirs. This wine has a very light red color and on the nose, its present an alluring scent of cherry, mild spice and a touch of earthiness. On the palate, you'll be impressed with its elegance and complexity, its bright acidity and delightful flavors of red fruit, spice notes, earthy elements and a touch of herbs. With a lengthy and pleasing finish, this is a killer Pinot, one that can easily compete with Pinots from any other region. It seems like a wine reflective of place, and it was easy to finish the bottle over the course of an evening.


Summary

Eight countries made the list this year, as opposed to seven last year. Georgia and California occupy the most spots on my Top Ten list, each with two spots. The rest of the list is occupied by France, Italy, Spain, Chile, Greece, and Moldova. The list is also broken down into two Sparkling Wines, two White wines, one Rosé, & five Reds.

On the Honorable Mention list, seven countries made the list and Georgia, Greece and Portugal occupy the most places, each with two spots. The other regions include California, Israel, South Africa and Germany. The list is also broken down into two Whites, one Rosé, & seven Reds.

When you combine the two lists, Georgia is in first place with four spots while California and Greece are tied for second place with three spots each. Portugal has two spots while France, Italy, Spain, Chile, Moldova, Israel, South Africa and Germany all have only one spot. In addition, you'll find two Sparkling Wines, four White wines, two Rosé, & twelve Reds. Eight of the wines on these lists were tasted at the Boston Wine Expo.

I have plenty of other recommendations for wines at this price point on my blog. There are top notch wines from countries all over the world, made from an incredibly diverse selection of grapes and you can still find plenty of values too. My advice is that you seek out wines outside of your comfort zone. Explore the multitude of diversity in the wonderful world of wine. Taste and try anything new, unique or potentially interesting. I am sure your search will lead to new favorites.

If you have some of your own recommendations for wines that are over $15 but under $50, please add them to the comments.

Wednesday, April 19, 2017

Enderle & Moll Basis: An Intriguing German Pinot Noir

Spätburgunder.

A German word for what you will likely better know as Pinot Noir. German Rieslings get most of the attention so many people don't realize that Pinot Noir is produced in Germany. In fact, Pinot Noir has been grown in Germany since at least the 14th century, though it never attained the fame of Burgundy, partially as the wines just didn't seem as good as those in Burgundy. However, their quality has greatly improved. Currently, there are approximately 12,000 hectares of Pinot Noir grown in Germany and we're starting to see more of those wines in the U.S. market.

Streetcar Winesin Jamaica Plain, has an excellent and fascinating selection of wines, primarily from small producers and their prices are very reasonable. This is a wine lovers store, an intriguing place for people to explore and expand their palates. Recently, while perusing their shelves, I found the 2014 Enderle & Moll Basis Pinot Noir ($30) and owner Michael Dupuy told me that it might be his favorite German Pinot Noir. I chose to buy a bottle, as well as a number of other fascinating wines.

The Enderle & Moll winery, which is relatively new, is named for its two German owners, Sven Enderle and Florian Moll. The winery is located in the Baden region, in the Black Forest foothills between Offenburg and Freiburg im Breisgau. They have a small, 2.4 hectare vineyard, in the village of Münchweier, which they farm organically and they also purchase some grapes from another small, organic vineyard. Their Pinot Noir vines are some of the oldest in the Baden region and purchase aged barrels from a small estate in Burgundy. Enderle and Moll are seen as "contrarians," very different from many other neighboring German producers. They are very hands-on, producing wines which many might consider "natural wines." They also have a reputation for making some of the best Pinot Noir in Germany.

The 2014 Enderle & Moll Basis Pinot Noir is their entry-level Pinot and it is created from two different barrels. One barrel is from whole clusters that were foot-stomped while the other barrel was only 30% whole clusters. And this wine has only an 11.5% ABV, an amazingly low alcohol level compared to most other Pinot Noirs. This wine has a very light red color and on the nose, its present an alluring scent of cherry, mild spice and a touch of earthiness. On the palate, you'll be impressed with its elegance and complexity, its bright acidity and delightful flavors of red fruit, spice notes, earthy elements and a touch of herbs.

With a lengthy and pleasing finish, this is a killer Pinot, one that can easily compete with Pinots from any other region. It seems like a wine reflective of place, and it was easy to finish the bottle over the course of an evening. And if this is only their entry level wine, then I very much want to explore their higher end wines, to see the vinous magic they produce. I highly recommend this wine and also highly recommend you check out Streetcar Wines.

Wednesday, June 18, 2014

Bronwyn Restaurant: Schnitzel, Spatzle, & Stickum

I've long felt that T.W. Food, owned by Tim and Bronwyn Wiechmann, is one of the most underappreciated restaurants in the Boston area. When many people discuss the best restaurants in the area, T.W. Food doesn't often seem to garner a mention, despite being more than worthy for the accolade. Their new restaurant, Bronwyn, though seems to be getting much more attention and press. And once again, I believe they have created a winning restaurant.

Bronwyn, located in the Union Square region of Somerville, features the cuisine and drinks of Germany and greater Central and Eastern Europe. The restaurant has a patio, their biergarten, an inside bar area, and a dining room. Last week, Adam (of Wine Zag) and I stopped there for dinner after a Cognac tasting. It was our first time dining there, but certainly won't be the last. We sat at the bar, sampling several dishes and tasting some of the cocktails and wine offerings. We were both impressed and look forward to checking out the rest of the menu.

They have a full liquor license so you can order one of their special cocktails, priced $9-$12, or a Haus Cocktail, which are numbered 1-9, and priced $10-$12. I began the meal with an Eins Haus Cocktail, which contains Old Overholt Rye, Nux Alpina Walnut, Dolin Rouge Vermouth, Boston Bittahs, and St. Elizabeth Allspice. A spicy and complex cocktail, it was a strong way to start the evening.

The Drinks Menu also contains over 40 beers, from Austria, Czech Republic, Germany, Italy, Poland, Switzerland, and the US, with plenty to intrigue and please the beer lover. There are around 11 wines available by the glass ($8-$12) and about 34 by the bottle. The bottled wines, with a good portion under $50, generally come from Germany, Austria, Italy, and Slovenia. You'll find Zweigelt and Blaufrankisch, Riesling and Gruner Veltliner, and plenty of other interesting wines.

The Food Menu begins with a Prix Fixe option, 4 Courses for $45 per person ($29 for Beer & Wine pairing). There are then about 10 Starters ($5-$12), 9 Mains ($17-$32), 4 Sides ($5 each), and Haus-Made Wurst (Mini plate for $14 with 2 sausages, potatoes, sauer krat or the Giant plate for $27 with 6 sausages). There are some specials, including their own take on the Burger and Hot Dog. Despite all the emphasis on meat, there are even vegetarian and vegan options. In addition, they serve Brunch on the weekends.

After enjoying a cocktail, we had a glass of the 2013 Schloss Gobelsburg, “Cistercian,” Rosé ($11), made primarily from Zweigelt though a bit of St.Laurent may have been added. It was crisp, clean and dry with subtle red fruit flavors, reminding me of Provence-style Rosé.  Delicious and easy drinking, this is an excellent food wine too.

As for Starters, we began with the Pierogi ($11), two large house-made Pierogi, filled with ham and cheddar cheese, and topped by a sweet pea relish and mint. With a crispy, fried exterior, the interior fillings were creamy and flavorful. This dish is certainly different from other pierogi dishes I have eaten, but there's nothing wrong with that.

Another Starter, which is not on their online menu, was Coppa atop toasted bread with red onions. Another tasty dish, the coppa was tender, with just enough saltiness and spice, and was like an open faced sandwich. This would have made an excellentt lunch sandwich.

We also had a Mini Wurst Plate ($14) with a couple sausages, accompanied by a side, the Gurken Salat ($5). I actually don't recall which sausages we got, but I remember they both were delicious, though different. One was a more traditional sausage, while the other was round, almost like a mini-sausage patty. The potatoes with the sausages had a crunchy exterior, but were soft and fluffy inside. The Gurken Salat were essentially thinly sliced pickles, and were addictive.

We moved on to a bottle of the the 2010 Movia Rebula ($63), produced from 100% Ribolla from vines that have an average age of 66 years. This is an intriguing "orange" wine, with a complex blend of minerality, spice, apricot, apple and more. It is crisp with a lengthy and pleasing finish. I have enjoyed a number of other Movia wines, but this Rebula was new to me. It is an impressive wine, and paired well with the food to come, especially the white anchovies!

Moving onto Mains, the Schnitzel à la Holstein ($24) had two pork schnitzels topped by a garbanzo bean ragoût, a soft boiled egg, capers and white anchovies. The pork was tender and flavorful, with a nice crunch to the coating, and its flavor was enhanced by the egg. A hearty dish, this should satisfy most diners.

I was especially impressed with the Spätzle ($19), a classic Schwabian pasta with asparagus, red onion marmalade, and Comté cheese. Great comfort food, with perfectly cooked pasta and plenty of melted cheese enhancing the dish. If I had eaten only this Spätzle, I would have been more than satisfied. This is a dish I highly recommend.

The Dessert Menu has 4 choices ($8 each), and we ordered the German Chocolate Cake, which has almonds, coconut, and a vanillensauce. Sweet and decadent, this is a fine way to end your meal. A nice blend of flavors and textures, it is worth saving a bit of room after your meal to order this dish. And it is large enough to share.


With dessert, we tried the Stickum Uerigea fascinating beer eau-de-vie, also known as "beer brandy" or "bierschnaps." Bronwyn carries three of their products, the Stickum Uerige, Original ($22), Stickum Uerige, Château d’Yquem Barrel ($25) and Stickum Uerige Plus, Port Wine Oak Barrel ($27). These are very limited production spirits, and it seems they commonly sell for $150-$200 a bottle, which explains the price per glass.

The Château d’Yquem still possesses a flavor of beer, combined with notes of honey, dried fruit and floral elements. My preference was the Port Wine, which had almost no beer flavor, but plenty of concentration, depth and complexity. It does show Port wine characteristics, but you also realize that it is more than Port. There is enough acidity to balance the sweetness, and this may be my new favorite method of drinking beer.

Overall, I had an excellent dinner at Bronwyn, and very much look forward to dining there again. The flavors are compelling, the drinks are interesting, and service was excellent. I think the food is fairly priced for the quantity and quality. Check out Bronwyn for some Schnitzel, Spatzle, & Stickum!

Bronwyn on Urbanspoon

Wednesday, June 24, 2009

German Wine Tasting: June 25

German wines can be confusing, especially with all the strange German terms on their labels. Would you like to learn more about German wines, to help cut through the confusion? If so, then check out a special German Wine Tasting & Regional Survey at the Lower Falls Wine Co. on Thursday, June 25th from 5pm-6:30pm.

Their own Luke Wohlers, Master Sommelier candidate and German wine aficionado, will host this fun, educational affair. Luke will pour a spectrum of whites so you can hone in on the regional differences in German white wine. This will be a broad survey, with an emphasis on the dry styles widely popular in Germany and increasingly available in the US. Luke will also touch on issues such as the German classification system and the effects of global warming, including the current trend towards riper whites and the potential for serious reds.

The event is free and no RSVP is required. There will also be special pricing on German wines during the event.

Lower Falls Wine Co.
2366 Washington Street (Rt. 16)
Newton Lower Falls, MA
Phone: (617) 332-3000

Wednesday, August 6, 2008

Salem Wine Imports Tasting: August 5

On Tuesday, I stopped by Salem Wine Imports for their usual Tuesday evening wine tasting. Eric, the owner, had a mixed selection of wines, from all over the world. There was a good crowd of tasters and it was an enjoyable evening, as usual.

First on the tasting was the 2007 Max Ferdinand Richter Estate Riesling ($14.99) from the Mosel-Saar-Ruwer region of Germany. The grapes for this wine are of at least Kabinett/Spätlese quality and it has been vinified simply as Qualitätswein, to give consistency from one vintage to the next. Coming in at a low alcohol content of 9.5%, the wine has a light gold color and a strong citrus aroma. On the palate, there is a touch of sweetness with flavors of orange and peach. It has a nice acidity and probably would be a good pairing with spicy Asian cuisine.

This was followed by another Riesling, the 2005 Karl Erbes Riesling Spatlese ($18.99) which only has an alcohol content of 8%. This was a deeper gold color than the previous wine. It was also aromatic but with more floral and spice notes than fruit. On the palate, it is a richer, more full bodied wine. It is dry with just a tinge of sweetness. I taste more apricot, melon and herbs in this Riesling. Probably another wine that would go well with spicy Asian cuisine.

From Riesling to Rose, we next tried the 2007 Chateau Revelette Rose ($15.99) from the Provence region of France. This Rose is a blend of 50% Syrah, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon and 25% Grenache. It also has an alcohol content of 13.5%. It has a pale salmon color with a light nose of strawberries. It is a very dry wine with subtle red fruit flavors and a touch of spice. It has a moderatly long finish and seems a very typical Provence Rose. I enjoyed it and definitely would like sipping them outside during a warm summer day.

I was not as happy with the next wine, the 2007 A to Z Rose ($14.99) from Oregon. Generally I have enjoyed the wines of A to Z, so I was hoping for a good Rose here. The Rose is made from Sangiovese and has an alcohol content of 13.5%. It is a darker pink color than the previous Rose and had rather a closed nose. I could not smell much. On the palate, there was some red fruit flavors, a bit of watermelon and strawberry but the finish was rather bitter, more than just tart. That bitterness ruined the wine for me and I am not sure if it was just an off bottle or not.

Moving a bit south, the next wine was the 2006 Z52 Lodi Zinfandel ($14.99). For a Zin, this is a lightweight with an alcohol content of only 14.5% but it still is an amazing little wine for the price. Dark red in color, you get a very spicy nose and that spice shines through on the palate as well. There are also some nice dark red fruit flavors, ripe plum and blackberry. It is not too tannic and would definitely make a good food wine, from BBQ to a hearty pasta dish. An excellent value wine.

We ended the evening with the 2007 Lini Lambrusco Bianco “Labrusca” ($16.99) from Italy. I have had red Lambrusco before but never a white one so this was a treat. I loved the nose on this wine, such vibrant fruit. On the palate, it is frizzante, so just a mild carbonation. It has a bit of a yeasty taste with some subtle citrus fruit notes. It almost reminded me more of a Proscecco than the red Lambrusco I am used to. Though it was ok, it was not really my type of wine. I think I would enjoy their red Lambrusco much more.

FYI: Keep September 25 open on your calendar. Salem Wine Exports will be holding their first "Salem Wine Expo" on that date. The event will be held across the street from the store in the Lyceum Restaurant, thus allowing for much more space. They hope to get winemakers, importers and maybe an owner or two, to be at this event. There should be upwards of 100 wines available from all around the world. There will be some grazing food plus some light entertainment. There is a charge for this event, either $20 prepay or $25 at the door.

When I receive more details on this event, I will post them.

Salem Wine Imports
32 Church St.
Salem, MA
Phone: 978-741-9463

Wednesday, July 16, 2008

Boston Wine School: Rosé Wines

Think Pink for the Summer!

I love Rosé wines and have reviewed a number of them in recent weeks. So when I had the opportunity to attend a tasting class on Rosé wines, including a few less common ones, I was eager to go.

The class was led by Jonathon Alsop at his Boston Wine School. His website states: "Jonathon Alsop is a wine writer covering wine, food and travel since 1988. He is author of the wine column "In Vino Veritas" as well as many articles for the Associated Press, Frequent Flyer, La Vie Claire, Beverage Business Magazine, Mobil Travel Guides, Fodor's Travel Guides, Boston Globe, and others. In addition to writing about wine, Jonathon founded the Boston Wine School in 2000 where he teaches wine and food classes."

This is the second class I have attended at the Boston Wine School, the first being a Wine Writer's course that is still going on (and which I will review later). But the Rosé class was the first tasting course I have taken there. The usual price of these tasting classes is about $50 though the Rosé class was only $35 as the wines are less expensive.

I have found Jonathon to be personable, knowledgeable and very down to earth. He is definitely not some pretentious wine snob. He wants the students to feel comfortable, to trust their own palates, and I think he accomplishes exactly that. There were fourteen people in the class and everyone seemed to enjoy themselves very much, opening up more as the evening progressed. Jonathon helped to make the class fun as well as informative.

The Boston Wine School is a good venue for classes and even has a kitchen area. The tables and chairs are generally set so everyone can more easily see each other as well as converse. It is an intimate setting, perfect for small groups.

Before the class began, Jonathon handed out flute glasses of a German sparkling water, Gerolsteiner Mineral Water, and there was a plate of fresh cantaloupe and strawberries. All intended to help us relax as many were coming directly from work. I thought the water was delicious, with a light and natural effervescence. It is something I am going to seek out as I am usually not a big fan of carbonated waters.

In additions to the wines, Jonathon provided an assortment of foods to nibble on, including figs, three different cheeses, some cured meats, bread, olives and pickles. This was a very nice touch and all of the food was fresh and tasty, especially the cheeses which included a Brie and a Gorgonzola.
We tasted twelve Rosé wines, sequenced from the lightest color to the darkest. Nearly all of these wines cost less than $20 making Rosé a good value.

2006 Dr. Loosen Villa Wolf Rosé de Pinot Noir (Pfalz, Germany): This wine had a very pale color with almost an orange tint to it. It had a subdued aroma with maybe a touch of red fruit. It was a dry wine with some strawberry flavor and a bit of tartness. It was also acidic and only had an alcohol content of 11%. It was ok but nothing special and probably something I would not buy.

2007 Domaines Corey Creek Rosé (North Fork, Long Island): This Rosé is a blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. I did not care for the smell as it seemed to have some vegetal notes, maybe from the Cabernet Franc. I also did not care for the taste as I still got green notes and some light effervescence.

2007 Charles Shaw White Zinfandel (Sonoma): Yes, technically White Zinfandel is a Rosé. And I must admit there was a time when I enjoyed White Zinfandel. But the more I have gotten into wine, the less sweet wine I usually want, except for dessert wines. This wine had a sweet strawberry aroma and tasted like strawberry jam or even cotton candy. It only has an alcohol content of 11%. It is still a popular wine but I am no longer a fan, preferring my Rosé to be dry.

2006 Bogle Petite Sirah Rosé (Clarksburg, CA): With a nice pink color, the nose seemed a bit closed as I could not really smell much there. It was a very dry wine with a restrained flavor of strawberry and raspeberry. Its finish was very short, the flavor vanishing very quickly in your mouth. Another Rosé that did not appeal to me.

2007 Louis Jadot Beaujolais Rosé (Beaujolais, Burgundy): I have never had a Beaujolais Rosé before so I was very curious about this wine. It is made from the Gamay grape and has an alcohol content of 12%. It had a pleasant nose of strawberry which followed through on the palate as well, mixed with hints of light cherry. It is a medium bodied wine and almost seems sweet because of the lush fruit but it is not. I found this a very pelasant wine and would recommend it.

2004 Long Beach Shiraz Rosé (Robertson, South Africa): Another Rosé to intrigue me because of its country of origin. I have had only a couple Rosés from South Africa and usually have enjoyed them. This wine was a darker pink color with a more unusual but interesting nose, a bit of apricot and almost tropical fruit. Possibly due to the fact it is older than most other Rosés on the market. Its taste was just as intriguing to me, with touches of apricot but a little strawberry as well. There was also a hint of smokiness that seemed to come and go. A very different Rosé but which is enjoyable. Another wine I would recommend.

2005 Marea Rosato del Salento (Puglia, Italy): This was another older Rosé but it did not fare as well. It was a bit orangey in color with an offputting, medicine smell. It tasted sour with apricot notes and I did not like it.

2007 Kim Crawford Gisborne Rosé (Gisborne, New Zealand): We now moved on to a biigger, bolder Rosé with a vibrant strawberry nose. It was a more full bodied wine with an alcohol content of 14%, though the alcohol was balanced. It is a dry wine with lush fred fruit flavors and would definitely be enjoyable on a summer day.

2005 Galil Mountain Rosé (Galilee, Israel): This was another wine that really intrigued me as I have had very few wines from Israel. This Rosé is a blend of 65% Sangiovese, 23% Cabernet Sauvignon and 13% Syrah. I certainly had no idea they grew Sangiovese in Israel. It had a vibrant dark pink color with an enticing nose of mixed red fruits. It was a full-bodied wine with an intriguing taste of strawberry, raspberry and a touch of watermelon. It was slightly tart and had a nice, long finish. I thought it was a very good Rosé and I would recommend this as well.

2007 Marques de Caceres Rosado (Rioja, Spain): I have had this Rosé before and enjoyed it at the tasting as much as I have before. It is a Tempranillo blend and just the image of a good, down-to-earth Rosé, with excellent fruit flavors, dry and a nice crispness. Another wine to buy and share with friends.

2006 Domaine de la Mordoree Tavel (Rhone Valley, France): This Rosé was the star of the show and the most popular for many of the attendees. This is what you might think of as a more serious Rosé, a subtle and complex wine. It is a dark pink color and has a nose of strawberries and cream. On the palate, you get an assortment of red fruits with hints of spice. It has a satisfying, long finish and may be the heavy weight with an alcohol content of 14.5%. This wine shows that not all Rosés are simple wines. I highly recommend this wine!

2007 Saintsbury Vin Gris of Pinot Noir (Carneros, CA): We ended on a poor note, the darkest wine of the bunch. I recently tasted this wine at home and found it unbalanced, the alcohol too prevalent and masking the rest of the wine. At this tasting, I was once again disappointed, the wine unbalanced and bitter. What makes it more disappointing for me is that I like most of the other Saintsbury wines. They make excellent Pinot Noir so I wanted to like this wine too, but I just can't.

This was an excellent tasting class and motivates me to sign up for other classes at the Boston Wine School with Jonathon. Jonathon provides a fun environment to learn about wines without pretension or snobbery. I highly recommend you check out the list of upcoming classes and sign up for something interesting. You won't be disappointed.

Friday, July 4, 2008

Wine-Sense: Pre-Fourth Summer Bash

Looking for some summer wine choices? If so, you should have been with me last night.

Last evening, I led a group of about fifteen people from the North Shore Winers to a special Pre-Fourth Summer Wine Tasting Bash at Wine••Sense in Andover. I recently reviewed Wine-Sense and found it to be an excellent, boutique wine store with a passionate and energetic owner.

Andrea Alexander and Jonathan Tagliani, both local distributors for different companies, were present and showcased some of the wines from their respective portfolios. This included whites, roses and reds. Something for all tastes.

I began the tasting at Jonathan's table, who had three Roses and one White.

First up was the 2007 Domaine Raffault Chinon Rose ($15) from the Loire Valley of France. It is made form 100% Cabernet Franc and has an alcohol content of 12.5%. It has a light pink color. Now, I am not a fan of Cabernet Franc. I find that most Cabernet Franc has a green pepper flavor that turns me off. And I did smell a little green pepper on the nose and also tasted it. The green pepper did mix with some red fruit, predominantly strawberry, but it is not a combination that I like. But, it was a very popular wine with others at the tasting. If you like Caberent Franc, then you will likely enjoy this Rose.

Next, there was the 2007 Domaine de Terrebrune Bandol Rose ($30) from the Provence region of France. This estate uses organic agriculture and will be certified as such later this year. The wine is about 90% Mourvedre with a little added Syrah and Grenache. It has an alcohol content of 13.5%. The Bandol region makes some incredible Rose, especially ones that age well. Domaine Tempier is considered by many to be the best estate in Bandol and I do very much enjoy their Rose. So how does Domaine de Terrebrune measure up? Actually, extremely well. The Rose is a very pale pink color with an intriguing nose of fruit and a touch of spice. It is a full-bodied wine with a complex taste of red fruit and spice. It is a wine to savor, to reflect on its quality. It has a long finish and I think it is comparable to Domaine Tempier. This is an excellent Rose and one I would highly recommend.

The 2007 Chateau De Trinquevedel Tavel Rose ($20) is also from the Provence region. This is a Rhone blend with primarily Grenache and it has an alcohol content of 14%. It has a medium pink color, almost a light red. On the nose, it has lush fruit smells which also are reflected on the palate. Vibrant strawberry, raspberry and watermelon flavors. There also seems to be a bit of pepper in the wine, especially on the finish. I very much enjoyed this wine and would also recommend it.

Lastly, there was the 2007 Seebrich Riesling Kabinett ($15) from Germany. With an alcohol content of only 10%, this is certainly a lighter choice. And once you taste it, I am sure you will enjoy it too. It has a nice crispness to it with only a hint of sweetness. It presents more of an apricot flavor with hints of tropical fruit. This is the type of wine to pair with spicier foods, maybe some Thai or Indian. Many people seemed to enjoy this wine and I would also recommend it.

It was time to move on to Andrea's table where she had three Whites and two Reds.

I began with the 2006 Stefano Massone, Vigneto Masera Gavi ($13) from the Piedmont region of Italy. This white wine is made from 100% Cortese and has an alcohol content of 11.5%. This dry wine has good citrus flavors with a touch of minerality and some nuttiness, especially on the finish. I liked it but it did not really impress me. For the price though, it is a good buy.

Next, there was the 2007 Salneval Albarino ($13) from the Rias Baixas region of Spain. I am a big fan of Albarino, especially from Spain. This wine, with an alcohol content of 12.5%, is an excellent example of Albarino. It has delicious citrus flavors with a touch of honey. It is a very crisp and refreshing wine. This is the perfect type of wine to pair with seafood. And this is an excellent price for an Alabarino that tastes this good. I highly recommend this wine.

The 2006 Staatlicher Hofkeller Wurzburg Abtswinder Altenberg Scheurebe Kabinett ($21) is from Germany. This wine must have one of the longest names in the world. The wine is made from the Scheurebe grape and comes in a bottle that reminds you of Mateus. Though in Germany, that shaped bottle is sometimes known as a "goat sac" bottle. The wine has an intriguing nose of spicy grapefruit. On the palate, it has plenty of acidity with an almost sweet taste combined with citrus, especially grapefruit. Again, this is a wine that some people really loved. For myself, I am not as keen on grapefruit so I was not a big fan of this wine. Though if you enjoy that flavor, you will definitely love this wine.

On to the reds, we began with the 2006 Coltibuono Cetamura Chianti ($12). This is a simply, easy drinking wine. It is a light wine with a fruity nose and plenty of cherry flavors on the palate. It has decent acidity and would make an excellent BBQ wine. A good value choice at this price point that should please many.

The final wine was the 2006 Domaines Barons de Rothschild Aussiers Rouge ($18). This wine is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Grenache, Merlot and Syrah and has an alcohol content of 13.5%. It is made in 90% staineless steel. It has an enticing nose, very aromatic fruit. Though there was some good red fruit flavors, I also detected a touch of green, almost unripe flavor. So I did not care as much for this wine.

Overall, a very good tasting and my fellow Winers all seemed to enjoy. Many of them did buy wine so they found wines that they enjoyed. If you have not been to Wine••Sense yet, you definitely should check it out.