A Fascinating Mezcal Resource: "Holy Smoke! It’s Mezcal!" (2nd Ed.) by John P. McEvoy

There are only a handful of books in English which concentrate on Mezcal, that compelling agave spirit from Mexico. When I started my deeper explorations of Mezcal, I devoured the few Mezcal books that existed, including Holy Smoke! It’s Mezcal! by John P. McEvoy, the author of the excellent blog, Mezcal Phd. I found the book to be a comprehensive look at Mezcal, from its history to information on many producers. When people asked me for a recommendation for a Mezcal book, Holy Smoke was always at the top of my recommendations. That won't change at all with this new edition, which is even a better resource.

John P. McEvoy has recently released a revised, second edition of Holy Smoke, and it is significantly larger, with plenty of new information, and is even more fascinating than the first edition. Holy Smoke! It’s Mezcal! The Revised 2nd Edition (published in April 2018) is currently available as a trade paperback, of 272 pages (the previous edition was only 204 pages), in either a Color ($34.99) or Black & White ($16.99) edition. An E-book version is not yet available. John sent me a complimentary copy of the book, an acknowledgment of my contributions to expanding the history of Pechuga Mezcal.

On his blog, John explained the relatively high price of the Color edition. In short, his book is self-published, through Amazon CreateSpace, and the cost to print the book in color is quite expensive. John is taking a minimal royalty on the color edition. The black & white edition is less expensive, at half the price, and still contains all of the same information. As I've self-published my own novels, I fully understand John's dilemma with publishing a book with numerous color photos. And I appreciate that he gave potential readers the option of a less expensive, black & white edition.

I'll also mention that John referenced me (in a very kind way) on a couple pages in his new edition, in his chapter, "Pechuga, Aged in Glass, and Ensembles." John mentions the information I posted in An Expanded History of Pechuga Mezcal, where I found documentary evidence of the existence of Pechuga as far back as 1864, expanding the known history of Pechuga by about 70 years. I'm grateful that John mentioned me in his new book.

How is the 2nd Edition different from the 1st? First, you'll note there are new chapters including Process Trumps Varietals, The Rise of Mezcal, Pechuga, Aged in Glass, and Ensembles, Mezcal Starter Kit and The Professional Edition, and A Brief Guide to Oaxaca. A couple chapters were also eliminated, including Traditional versus Artisanal Mezcal and Mezcal Will Change You. You don't lose any information as those chapters were subsumed into new chapters. Some of the same chapters have been revised and expanded, sometimes in small ways and sometimes in a more significant manner. The end result is plenty of new and intriguing, up-to-date information on mezcal and its current status.

This is a book of value to all mezcal lovers, whether you are just starting to learn about this wonderful spirit or you've already been a fan for several years. John has written a comprehensive book that touches on so many different mezcal issues. And the new edition is even more compelling with all of its new details, stories, and recommendations. I also love the color edition with all of its beautiful photography. The book is written in a fun and easy style, making it accessible for people of any knowledge level, and you'll enjoy some of the humorous bits scattered through the book.

If you have any interest in Mezcal, then I highly recommend Holy Smoke! It’s Mezcal! The Revised 2nd Edition. John has done an excellent job of updating his work.

Rant: Agave Reforestation & Saving Mezcal

When you harvest grapes to make wine, the vines survive and will continue to provide grapes for years to come. On the other hand, mezcal is a distilled spirit made from the agave plant, more commonly called maguey in Mexico, and when it is harvested, the entire plant is gone. You need to plant another maguey to replace it, to maintain sustainability. This is a vital issue with the mezcal industry, one which has received growing attention in recent years.  

One of the mezcal producers which is at the forefront of this matter is Pierde Almas. Their website states: "Pierde Almas is first and foremost a Socially, Culturally and Environmentally Responsible Company." They also create some amazing Mezcals, some of my favorites, including the Maguey de Lumbre, +9 Botanicals, and the Mezcal de Conejo.

In June, Pierde Almas will conduct their 9th Annual Agave Reforestation Program, where they help their Maestro Mezcaleros plant baby agaves in the wild hills of Oaxaca. Last year, the program, with volunteers from México, the U.S., and Europe, planted Tepextate, Tobaziche and Cirial Agaves in the foothills overlooking two different villages. Currently, 98% of those agaves are thriving.

This year, they intend on planting Tepextate and Tobalá in San Baltazar Guelavila and San Luis del Rio, but will also plant about 200 Tepehuaje trees in each village. Tepehuaje trees, native to the Sierra Madre, are sturdy, fast-growing trees which have been a traditional source of firewood for centuries. Resource management is key to community prosperity, so we decided this year to insert one Tepehuaje for every 5 Agaves planted. As the trees grow a little faster than the agaves, they will be ready to be used as firewood when the agaves are ready to be harvested.  Next year, their objective is to quadruple that amount.

If you are interested in this fascinating project, there are two dates to choose from, June 8th and 15th. There is space on each date for a group of twenty people. Aeroméxico has generously provided discounted airfares for all participants. They have also partnered with Hotel Los Pilares to get discounted rates at their beautiful and historical hotel, located in the beautiful Jalatlaco neighborhood in Oaxaca’s Centro Historico.

Pierde Almas will provide transportation to the fields, as well as a big lunch fiesta the day of the planting with Oaxacan music, great food and of course mezcal.

If you are interested please send an email to reforestacion@pierdealmas.com and request more information. Space is limited and will fill up quickly so contact them ASAP if interested.

Save the Maguey, Save the Mezcal!

The Rise Of Tequila In The 18th & 19th Centuries

“Tequila is a pale flame that burns through walls and flies over roofs to soothe one’s feeling of despair.”
--Álvaro Mutis, a Colombian poet

Mezcal is the oldest distilled spirit in the Americas, thought to extend back nearly 500 years when Spaniards or Filipinos introduced distillation equipment to the country. There is also an intriguing theory, which still requires more supporting evidence, that the indigenous peoples of Mexico might have independently created their own distillation equipment long before the arrival of the Europeans. Nonetheless, the precursor to mezcal was a fermented spirit called Pulque, which was also made from the agave plant, and extends back over 1000 years. Thus, each sip of mezcal brings with it a sense of history, a connection to Mexico's past.

At its simplest, mezcal is any distilled spirit made from the agave plant, which is more commonly called maguey in Mexico. Thus, mezcal is an expansive term, encompassing such agave distillates as Tequila, Bacanora, Racilla and others. You probably didn't know that tequila is really a type of mezcal. So how did tequila acquire its own identity?

Let's explore some of the history of mezcal and tequila, primarily during the 18th and 19th centuries, and see the evolution. Some of this history will correct errors in the "commonly accepted knowledge" about tequila, and I've provided numerous sources to support my article. More research is certainly warranted, especially in some of the new avenues I've uncovered.

Initially, there was just mezcal, and it lacked any sense of place. No matter where it was produced in Mexico, it was simply known as mezcal. At some point though, specific areas of Mexico became well known for the quality of their mezcal, and were referred to by reference to their area of production. This happened, at least in part, because that mezcal was being sold outside the area of its origin, and had acquired a certain reputation. It probably also cost more than other mezcal which wasn't known by its place of origin.

Mezcal production in the area surrounding Tequila apparently began around the 1730s. According to Miguel Claudio Jiménez Vizcarra, the indigenous people of Amatitán, which is close to nine miles south of Tequila, were the first to distill mezcal in the area. Over time, mezcal production spread to the nearby areas, and the town of Tequila may have gotten involved in distillation around the 1760s. Unfortunately, Amatitán had significant water issues and as Tequila had an abundant source of water, it became the more popular area for production and distillation.

Established as a Spanish naval base in 1768, the port of San Blas became especially important to the mezcal trade, especially when an eventual road connected Tequila with San Blas, helping tequila become more known outside of Mexico. San Blas became significant as a connection to Spanish settlements in California, a base for exploration of the northwest coast, and for mercantile traffic. All of the people that now worked at the port also became a new market for mezcal and other alcoholic beverages. In addition, the naval vessels commonly purchased those beverages for their lengthy treks, which also helped to spread knowledge of mezcal.

Some of the earliest documented distilleries in the Tequila region are described in La construcción cultural y económica del tequila by Rogelio Luna Zamora (2015). There is a chart listing a number of known "tabernas" of mezcal-tequila in the 18th & early 19th centuries, noting the name of the distillery, owner, date of founding, and its location. The earliest is the San Martín de las cañas, founded in 1756, at the Hacienda de San Martín, though the name of  the owner appears to be unknown. The next taberna was founded in 1758, by the Familia Cuervo y Montaño at the Hacienda de Cuisillos, though the name of the distillery is unknown. La Chorrera, founded in 1777, was owned by Malaquías Cuervo and located at the Rancho de San Juan de Dios de las Chorreras.

In 1785, King Charles III officially banned the production of agave-based alcoholic beverages in Mexico, including pulque and mezcal, to protect the importation of Spanish wines and spirits. Despite its illegality, pulque and mezcal production continued. Like Prohibition in the U.S., people in Mexico still wanted these alcohols so some of them took the risk to make moonshine pulque and mezcal. The government's enforcement of this prohibition also wasn't too forceful, especially as they could earn money from its production.

In José de Gálvez, Visitor-General of New Spain (1765-1771), by Herbert Ingram Priestly (1916), there is a passage about pulque which stated, “The viceroys would have gladly eradicated the evil, as would the clergy, but the beverage was an immemorial heritage of the indigines, and its use could not be prevented.” The government knew any prohibition would ultimately fail, so they were more practical, collecting their due. The book also mentioned, “Caldos, the term applied to entry duties collected on wines, brandies, and vinegar—to which were added, during the latter part of the 18th century, revenues derived from the manufacture in New Spain of spiritous liquors—produced in 1785-89 289,060 pesos; the cost of administering the revenue was 118,010, leaving 171,050 pesos for the term, or 34,210 pesos annual revenue net.” As can be seen, despite the ban, the government was still collecting duties on pulque and mescal that was manufactured.

It is also during this period of prohibition that the first differentiation of mezcal by its place of origin can be found. In the Memorias de la Academia Mexicana de Historia (July-September 1958), there is an article titled Brevajes en la Colonia. La fontana mexicana del siglo XVIII en la mezcla de licores, written by M. Carrera Estampa. One of the passages in the article states, "En 1789 en el Real de Minas de San Pedro de Mazapil, en Zacatecas, se consumía mezcal procedente de Tequila con el nombre “Vino mezcal de Guadalajara”. Basically, this means that mezcal from Tequila had acquired the special name of "Vino mezcal de Guadalajara." Thus, at this time, it seems that mezcal from Tequila was being sold outside of the region, and was sought after because of its reputation.

Finally, in 1795, after ten years of the prohibition, King Carlos IV overturned the ban on the production of agave spirits. It is this same year that an unnamed distillery was established by José Ma. Guadalupe de Cuervo at the Cofradía de Ánimas. As the prohibition had just been lifted, this distillery received the first official license to produce mezcal from Tequila. And this is the origin of the famous Cuervo distillery.

As the 19th century began, new distilleries continued to open, and one of the most notable was La Antigua Cruz ("The Old Cross"), founded in 1805 by Jose Maria Castaneda in Tequila, said to be the oldest registered distillery in Tequila. Eventually, this distillery would become the Sauza Tequila distillery. Once Mexico acquired independence from Spain in 1821, the number of distilleries in Tequila increased even more, and the mezcal from Tequila started becoming well known and sought after for its quality.

One of the earliest newspaper references to mezcal from Tequila in the 19th century is in El Sol (October 13, 1824), which stated, under "Announcements,": "En el meson de san Dimas calle de las Moras, se espende por mayor o menor vino mescal de Tequila legitimo; lo se que noticia al publico para su inteligencia." This refers to the "mescal wine of authentic Tequila," clearly setting it apart from normal mezcal. As this passage is plainly presented, without any further explanation, it seems that the average newspaper reader was already familiar with "authentic Tequila." This is even more interesting as by 1830, there were only about nine documented distilleries in Tequila.

In Le Mexique (1830), J. C. Beltrami, an Italian author and explorer, detailed his journey to Mexico in 1823, including a visit to the area of Tequila. He wrote a single reference about mezcal, "Le maguey, par la grande quantite de sa liqueur, sert a former du pulque et de l'eau-de-vie, qu'on appelle Vino mescal." This roughly translates as, "The maguey, by the great quantity of its liquor, serves to form pulque and brandy, which is called Vino mescal." It would have been nice to have more detail here but it couldn't have impressed Beltrami sufficiently, for whatever reason.

La construcción cultural y económica del tequila, by Rogelio Luna Zamora (2015), discussed how many small tequileros disappeared during the first half of the 19th century, but one of the most constant was the Hacienda de San Martín, which had been founded in 1756. By 1840,  it "...was producing 400 barrels per week (66-liter barrels), which meant a distillation for that decade close to one million liters per year, if we consider that they worked 40 weeks a year. Probably in that decade, the production of tequila in the whole microregion reached two million liters per year." The growth of tequila during this time is impressive.

This same article also noted that the distilleries of the town of Tequila produced about 55,000 barrels in 1835, with about one-third of that production being exported out of Jalisco. By 1843, the number of barrels being exported out of Jalisco was reduced down to about 3,700 barrels and in 1845, the amount had decreased even more, down to 1,692 barrels. These exports were primarily sent through the San Blas port.

There were a couple additional newspapers references, over the next 35 years, differentiating mezcal from Tequila. In the El Monitor Republicano (July 11, 1849), there are lists of various shipments including separate references for "3 barriles mescal" and "3 barriles mescal Tequila," showing there was a difference with the mezcal of Tequila. A reference in El Universal (December 20, 1850) deals with taxes on cargo, stating ".., cada botija de vino mescal de Tequila o Pinos pagara seis granos;.." This roughly translates as ".., each botija of mescal wine of Tequila or Pinos will pay six grains;..." Once again, there is a specific reference to the mezcal of Tequila.

Within Intoxicated Identities: Alcohol's Power in Mexican History and Culture by Tim Mitchell (2004), you'll find additional insight into how Tequila became more prominent in the middle of the 19th century. For example, "The patronal festivals and marketing fairs of other localities were key to achieving initial brand-name recognition for “Tequila.” In addition, "Jalisco had the good fortune to be the native region of a superior species of bluish-tinted agave (now known as Agave tequilana Weber)." Plus, pulque was still the most popular alcohol in Mexico so it was still being produced on a large scale across Mexico, except in the region of Tequila which chose to concentrate on producing tequila instead.

With this burgeoning trade in the mezcal of Tequila, when was the first shipment to the U.S.? The Sauza Tequila distillery claims that they were the first, in 1873, to export tequila to the U.S. You'll find other sources making a similar about the Jose Cuervo distillery, that they too sent the first tequila to the U.S. in 1873. However, if you consult the Jose Cuervo website, you'll notice that the company alleges they shipped tequila to California, through the port of San Blas, in 1852, though the site doesn't provide any documentation to support this allegation.

During my own research, I located documentation of a shipment in 1852 to California though unfortunately the reference does not indicate the source of the mezcal of "authentic Tequila." In the Daily Alta California, (July 22, 1852), there is a brief advertisement noting "Mescal--De Tequila Legitimo--1000 gals, ex, Ser.na. from San Blas, now landing at Sacramento street wharf, for sale by..." This could be the first "authentic tequila" shipment to the U.S. and it's certainly possible that it was sent by Cuervo, though the advertisement doesn't specify the producer. What other distillery at that time had the production capacity to ship 1,000 gallons, a substantial amount, to California? This documentation also disproves the claim that Sauza, in 1873, was the first tequila distillery to export to the U.S.

In 1854, Ernest Vigneaux, a Frenchman, traveled to Mexico, became a prisoner of war for a short time, and left the country in 1855. He wrote about his experiences in Souvenirs d’un Prisonnier de Guerre au Mexique, 1854–1855 (Memories of a Prisoner of War in Mexico), and mentioned Tequila in a few passages. One of the key references is, "De meme que Cognac a donné son nom aux eaux-de-vie françaises en général, Tequila donné le sien à l'aguardiente mescal." This roughly translates as "Just as Cognac gave its name to French eau-de-vie (fruit brandy) in general, Tequila have its name to mescal." Ernest clearly noted the quality of the meszal from Tequila, considering it to be the pinnacle of mezcal production.

Another important reference is found within the El Omnibus (January 8, 1855), which noted the price of a barrel of "vino de Tequila" at $20 (Mexican) though there wasn't a listed price, or even a mention, of "mezcal." This might be the first documented reference to "Tequila" on its own, without any reference to mezcal. Tequila was acquiring its own separate identity, though the process wasn't yet complete.

In 1858, Don Cenobio Sauza journeyed to Tequila to visit a relative and decided to remain there, eventually getting a job at the tequila distillery of José Antonio Gómez Cuervo.

In the Boletin de la Sociedad Mexicana de Geografia y Estadistica, there is a lengthy article, Memoria Sobre El Maguey Mexicano Y Sus Diversos Productos, written by D. Manuel Payno (August 1864). There are a couple references to Tequila, serving to differentiate it from other mezcal. First, you'll find: "El vino mezcal se elabora en grande escala en Guadalajara y San Luis Potosí. El de Guadalajara conocido generalmente con el nombre de tequila, se consume en todo el pais." This passage notes that the mezcal of Guadalajara is generally known as "tequila." Second, you'll find: "El mezcal puro es uno de los licores espirituosos, mas estimados en el merca do de México. Este licor y el tequila que se fabrica en el Departamento de Jalisco, suelen confundirse en el olor y en el sabor, con el ginebra de Holanda." That roughly translates as "Pure mezcal is one of the most spirited liqueurs, most prized in the Mexican market. This liquor and the tequila that is manufactured in the Department of Jalisco, are often confused in the smell and flavor, with the gin of Holland."

In The Evening Telegraph (September 1, 1868-Philadelphia), there is an interesting article, A Marvelous Plant, which discusses the myriad uses of the maguey plant, noting: "No account of Mexico can well omit a notice of its common vegetable wonder, the maguey." The article later states: "From the maguey verdi come the mescal and tequila, one a winish alcohol, and the other a gin, made in Jalisco and Guadalajara." There is a clear separation here between mezcal and tequila, with a rather significant difference in style.

The Chicago Tribune (December 18, 1870) notes: "There is a superior variety of the mescal produced near Guadalajara, and called after the village in which it is made, "Tequila." This costs more, and is sent to the City of Mexico, and elsewhere, as something very choice for a present to one's friends." Again, Tequila has its own identity, and is seen as a higher quality drink as compared to normal mezcal.

The Weekly Arizona Miner (July 13, 1872) also printed an interesting article about the maguey plant. The article mentions that common Mezcal usually sells for about 6 1/4 cents per bottle, but  "...certain localities produce favorite brands which bring larger prices than the ordinary article,..." Though Tequila isn't specifically mentioned, its prior mentions would seem indicate this passage would be applicable.

Some intriguing statistics were mentioned in Out West (August 22, 1872, Colorado), publishing that the "Tequila District"has a population of about 60,000 people, and that 25,000 of them are "... engaged in raising and manufacturing whiskey from the mescal or century plant;.." Besides the error of equating whiskey to mescal, it is amazing that over 40% of the population was involved in the mescal industry. This industry produced about 3000 tons, or 3000-4000 barrels, annually. When we consider that 20 years before, 1000 gallons were exported to California, that is comparably a huge amount considering production levels at this point.

In 1873, Don Cenobio Sauza decided to head out on his own, purchasing a tequila distillery, the former La Antigua Cruz. He renamed the distillery La Perseverancia and it became the foundation of the Sauza empire. At this time, Don Sauza also allegedly began shipping tequila to the U.S., though, and despite his claims, he was not the first to do so.

The El Padre Cobos (November 2, 1873), and a number of other issues during the next few months, posted an ad: "Gran Lecheria! En la calle de la Alcaiceria entre los numeros 27 y 28 se vende leche pura garantizada desde las cinco de la manana adelante y chocolate superior de varias clases, al estilo de Guadalajara. Proximamente se recibera de esa ciudad un abudante surtido de vino de Pechuga febrido in Tequila, Frijol garbancillo y Cigarros de la Conchita y el Buen Gusto todo legitimo y a precios comodos." This ad is fascinating as it may be the first mention of "Vino de Pechuga" being made in Tequila.

The El Libreto (January 4, 1875) also ran an advertisement for "... del Pechuga legitimo y Tequila puro de la mejor clase." This ad mentions "pure" Tequila of the best kind, and it clearly discusses Tequila on its own, and not just as mezcal.

In the Pacific Rural Press (April 7, 1877), there is a passage, "The city of Tequila is the great manufactory of the universal drink distilled from the maguey plant, which in this locality seems to be the best in Mexico. Nearly the whole city is made up of distilleries, and long before you enter its precincts you can smell the fumes of this horrid liquor. Vast fortunes have been realized by those engaged in its manufacture." We see that Tequila is once again is said to be the best in Mexico, that much of the city is dedicated to Tequila production, and that it has earned some people significant income.

How much Tequila was being produced at this point? In La construcción cultural y económica del tequila, by Rogelio Luna Zamora (2015), there is reference to a Treasury Report from 1877-1878, offered a comparison of mescal and tequila, in regards to number of barrels, number of liters and value. In 1878, tequila production consisted of about 98,000 barrels, comprising 6.4 million liters and valued at $1.17 Million. On the other hand, mescal production consisted of about 56,000 barrels, comprising 3.7 million liters and valued at $570,000. As tequila production was almost twice that of mescal, it is another reason why tequila became so prominent during this century.

The La Patria (February 1, 1879) ran an advertisement from a seller, Nicolas Andrade, of Tequila and Pechuga. The ad lists the prices, in Mexican dollars, for various containers, from a cup to a barrel. It is interesting to see that Pechuga generally cost twice as much as Tequila. A cup of "Grande Tequila" costs $0.03 while a cup of Pechuga cost $0.06. A bottle of Tequila cost $0.37 while a bottle of Pechuga cost $1.00. A Jar of Tequila cost $3.50 while a Jar of Pechuga cost $7.00. A Barrel of Tequila cost $25. As earlier mentioned, a barrel of Tequila in 1855 cost $20, so the price didn't rise significantly over the course of 24 years.

More prices were provided by the El Municipio Libre (April 3, 1879), in an advertisement by a liquor store. Mescal de Tierra Caliente cost $1.50 for a bottle and $20.00 for a Box (though there is no indication how much the box contains). Tequila Superior cost $3.00 for a bottle and $40.00 for a Box. These prices are higher than the other advertisement.

The Sun (May 2, 1880-New York) wrote "At Tequila, a little town in the State of Jalisco to the north of Guadalajara, a very superior kind of mezcal is manufactured, which takes its name from the town, and is really a palatable beverage." We once again see that the mezcal from Tequila has continued to take on its own identity, being known simply at "Tequila."

In the Los Angeles Herald (April 25, 1882), one of their articles stated, "Mescal of Tequila, the popular beverage of the Mexicans, and now so highly appreciated by Americans, can be had only at Guerrero's, corner Upper Main and Marchessault streets." It is interesting to see that Tequila is now considered popular in the U.S.

The New-York Tribune (November 28, 1884) printed, in an article about pulque, that, "It is said that one can get "deader" drunk, and remain so longer, on a smaller quantity of tequila than any other known liquid, although it is as colorless as water and almost as tasteless." For some, tequila has a bad reputation, though we can't deny the possibility that some of this negativity may have also been due to racism.

The Wichita Daily Eagle (April 24, 1886) paints a better picture of tequila, noting: "Briefly, this wonderful flower of Mexico is then made into a sort of whisky, called tequila--pronounced te-hee-la. This tequila is rather a hot and pepperish drink, but physicians advise strangers to drink it in preference to either the whisky or brandy to be bought in Mexico. The after-effects, as compared to other drinks, are said to be nil."

In the 1887 edition of The Mexican Guide by Thomas A. Janvier, which appears to be a travel guide of sorts, it mentions that “A strong distilled spirit is made from the root of the maguey, the best variety of which is the tequila de pechuga. It has something the taste of Scotch whiskey. It costs seventy-five cents a bottle.” This is a reference to Pechuga being the highest quality type of tequila and it even provides a price for it at this time, a mere seventy-five cents.

The Indianapolis Journal (April 03, 1887) printed an article that was also very negative toward Tequila, noting: "Tequila, unless first diluted, is a fearful liquid to take into the stomach. It is, however, probably not so injurious as bad whisky, being, in the language of the patent pill advertisements, "purely vegetable", and not doctored with drugs and fusel-oil." The article then continues: "It is not pleasant in taste to the beginner, and stays with the drinker entirely to closely and much too long in the the matters of odor and bad after-effects. It is difficult to determine what a man will not use as a stimulant, but certainly tequila--with a flavor of salty gin--is not a beverage which anyone whose taste is not perverted would "hanker" after." Again though, Tequila stands on its own, separate from mezcal.

According to Intoxicated Identities: Alcohol's Power in Mexican History and Culture by Tim Mitchell (2004), the construction of the Mexican railroad system, especially the completion of the Guadalajara to Mexico City line in 1888, create a boom for tequila producers. In 1889, ".., the tequila tycoons of Jalisco had already shipped 238, 458 liters of their precious mezcal to the nation’s capital."

This negativity continued in the Barton County Democrat (November 14, 1889, Kansas), where their article stated: "...tequila, a most atrocious drink, which looks like gin, harmless enough to all appearances, but which goes down your throat like a wave of fire, and a few glasses of which will make you drunk clear to your fingertips." The article also stated: "This liquid leaves a delicate suggestion of tar and red pepper in your mouth, and, if drunk after eating a certain kind of domestic fruit, it is very dangerous, and in many cases results very disastrously for the imbiber."

In The Morning Call (May 18, 1891, San Francisco), there are some interesting items, such as: "The City of Mexico drinks 250,000 pints of pulque daily, or a pint per capita, which ratio prevails generally throughout Mexico, pulque being the national beverage, ..." The article then goes on: "Mescal distilleries are very simple and more secret than a moonshiner's still." It also provides some additional information on pricing, with: "In Arizona for twenty-five years past mescal has averaged $2.50 gallon new with $1 added for each year of maturity. A higher grade article is called tequila and is worth over $10 per gallon."

This article indicates that mescal and tequila have been imported into Arizona since about 1866, which predates Sauza's claim to being the first to export tequila into the U.S. in 1873, but is later than the 1952 shipment of tequila to California. The price of tequila, in U.S. dollars, is over four times higher than that of ordinary mezcal.

You can find additional prices for Mezcal in the Boletín de Agricultura Minería e Industrias (January 1, 1892).  A barrel of "Mezcal Tequila, buena clase" is priced from $10.75-$11 (Mexican) and a barrel of "Mezcal Tequila, doble o de punta" (double or pointed) from $18-$20 (Mexican). The passage doesn't explain what is meant by "double or pointed."

In El Fronterizo (March 19, 1892-Arizona), there is some information on the amount of tequila being produced. The newspaper writes, "Ferrocarril proyectado en Jalisco. se habla muy seriamente en guadalajara de un proyecto de Ferrocarril de guadalajara a Tequila, pueblo que esta a 64 kilometros de distancia y en el cual se fabrican cosa de 200 barriles de tequila diarios. Se calcula que ademas de esta carga se trasportaria muchismo grano de las haciendas que hay por alli." The passage discusses a railway project which is intended to unite Tequila to Guadalajara, noting that Tequila produces about 200 barrels each day.

The Wood County Reporter (August 27, 1896, Wisconsin) has an article, Vintages of Mexico, which discusses pulque, mezcal and tequila. It begins, "The special drinks of Mexico are pulque, mescal, and tequila." That shows that at this time, mescal and tequila are considered separate entities. "As far as the alcoholic strength of the tequila is concerned, the same is about equal to that of common whisky, and likewise in its effects. If taken moderately, however, in case of poor appetite, a few thimblefuls act as an excellent tonic, and a small dose taken before retiring at night has a quieting effect. It is not advisable for a person to take much tequila and he who takes none at all is still better off."

The Norfolk Virginian (November 05, 1896) states: "The sum raised by the government of Mexico from the manufacture of tequila, one of the native intoxicants, is about $500,000 annually." This is an interesting statistic, touching on the size of the tequila industry at this time, and would be the equivalent today of about $13.8 million.

More negativity toward tequila came from the Scientific American Supplement (January 2, 1897), in the article, Beverages of Mexico, by Isabel N. Catlin. Its dismal view of mezcal and tequila states: “Mescal is described as tasting like a mixture of gasoline, gin and electricity. Tequila is even worse, and is said to incite murder, riot and revolution.”

The Grenada Sentinel (April 17, 1897-Mississippi) published an article on Maguey, and mentioned tequila, and its effect on the drinker. "Pulque produces an exhilaration, but not a drunk; mescal brings out the ruling passion in a man to a limited extent according to the quantity imbibed; tequila transforms the drinkers' surroundings into a purgatory or paradise, as his conscience most naturally pictures:.."

The Scranton Tribune (May 08, 1897) published an article about Mexico stating, "Tequila and mescal are distillations from different varieties of the maguey, the heart of the plant being roasted before it is distilled. These liquors are heavy and for the most part vile. It is said that a very small quantity of mescal has been known to cause a large sized revolution in days gone by."  Another negative comment on Mexico's spirits.

As to tequila's alleged potency, the Rock Island Argus (May 29, 1897, Illinois) provides a humorous comment, stating tequila is "... a brandy, and three swallows of it will make a man go home and steal his own trousers." 

The El Paso Daily Herald (April 7, 1899) provided some intriguing information on "Mexican Agriculture" for the year 1897. This was the first time an official document had been compiled. There were 3,101 haciendas in Mexico, with 279 being for pulque and 134 for mezcal. Tequila is not specifically mentioned in this figure so it may possibly have been included in the mezcal number. Other figures mention the number of hectoliters and the value of various alcoholic beverages, including pulque (about 2.6 million hectoliters & $4.9 million in value) and mescal & tequila (about 399,000 hectoliters & $4.1 million in value).

First, we can see that although much more pulque is produced than mezcal & tequila, it is much less expensive, so that the values are much closer. A hectoliter is equivalent to one hundred liters. Thus, the amount of mezcal & tequila comprised 39,900,000 liters, the equivalent of 4.4 million cases of 750ml bottles. The report also stated that "... the people of Mexico consumed 50 liters of alcoholic stimulants per capita in the year 1897, and spent per person $1.30 for their drink."

The Weekly Pantagraph (July 28, 1899-Illinois) published an article about the maguey plant. It also mentions that, "Tequila is an alcoholic liquor, used both for medicinal purposes and as a beverage." It continues, "Unlike pulque, tequila is a perfectly clear liquid, and improves in strength and quality with age. The profits and revenues derived from this product, while somewhat less than that of pulque, are still very large." The article also states, "The largest tequila distilleries are located at the town of Tequila, eighteen miles northwest of Guadalajara, each of which establishments pays the government a monthly tax of $500 for the privilege of manufacturing the spirits."

By 1892, there were 47 distilleries operating in the state of Jalisco, 13 of them in Tequila itself. The future for the next century looked bright. Tequila had its own separate identity from mezcal and it seemed that it would continue to gain converts in the U.S.

"On the surface, te­quila knows no borders, but some climates are more favorable, just as some hours seem to have been wisely designed to be­ long to tequila... It is at the highest twilight of doubt and per­plexity that tequila teaches us a consoling lesson, its ever­ present voice, its wholehearted indulgency.”
--Álvaro Mutis, a Colombian poet

(This article was revised/expanded on 4/19/2018.)

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I am back again with a new edition of Thursday Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting, upcoming food & drink events.
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1) Adelita, located in Concord, serves organic Mexican cuisine and is now open for both lunch and dinner. From the team behind Woods Hill Table, Adelita is the culmination of operating owner Kristin Canty’s passions for food, family farms and sustainable sourcing. The menu – developed and overseen by Woods Hill Table’s Executive Chef Charlie Foster – showcases Foster’s love and appreciation for the cuisine of his wife’s native Mexico.

The name of the restaurant, Adelita, was inspired by the name given to the female soldiers who fought in the Mexican Revolution. Adelita also represents Canty’s fight and advocacy work on behalf of small-scale farmers and the food sovereignty movement.

“Living and working in Concord, Charlie and I noticed a lack of heartfelt, quality Mexican food in the area,” says Canty. “By continuing our tradition of sourcing from my Bath, New Hampshire, farm – The Farm at Woods Hill – and taking inspiration from Charlie’s regular trips to Mexico, we can offer guests flavorful, nutrient dense Mexican food that we’d be proud to serve our own families."

Composed of Chef Foster’s take on Mexican street food, the Adelita menu celebrates high quality ingredients, careful sourcing and scratch-made dishes such as tacos, ceviche and composed plates. Sourcing primarily from The Farm at Woods Hill, Foster uses grass-fed proteins throughout the menu, with dishes such as Housemade Pork Chorizo & Carnitas, Lamb Barbacoa, and Chicken Tinga. Canty and Foster also look to other small-scale purveyors for fresh ground masa, seafood, and organic (a mix of practicing and USDA-certified) produce to create flavorful, close-to-authentic Mexican dishes that are as ecologically viable as they are delicious.

Adelita’s bar program emphasizes quality ingredients and carefully selected products. The star of the drink program, the Adelita Margarita is made entirely from small batch reposado tequila, housemade triple sec, fresh organic lime juice and organic aqave syrup. Unique iterations of this Mexican staple include beet and guava. Additional cocktails range from the refreshing Paloma to the smoky Mezcal Old Fashioned.

There are twelve Mezcals on their beverage list, from three different producers, and Canty stated, “All three of the producers that we have are on because they highlight single village styles of Mezcal, and single varietal agave. They are truly unique products and a wonderful experience to try them all side by side. The Leyenda, which is not on the menu yet but will be on next week, is the only certified organic mezcal on the menu. This is important to the owner’s concept of supporting smaller organic farmers and distillers.”

Whether USDA certified or “practicing,” all wines featured at Adelita are organic, focusing on Spanish varietals. Adelita’s wine menu of minimally processed labels highlights Tempranillo and Viura’s diverse food-pairing abilities.

Adelita is open Monday – Saturday, from 11am – 10pm, with Lunch from 11am – 2pm and Dinner from 5pm – 10pm

I'm looking forward to checking out this restaurant, and enjoying a fine Mezcal with dinner.

2) On Sunday, March 18th, at 6pm, Brassica Kitchen + Cafe will host a Sunday "Pop Up." Brassica's Chef de Cuisine Matt Hummel will partner with Chef Yesid Areiza of Shepard, and cocktail virtuoso Moe Isaza of Pammy's for a dining experience inspired by the flavors of Colombia and Peru they’re calling, "Cajita Para Llevar".

A colloquial phrase heard in many Latin American restaurants,'Cajita Para Llevar” means "for here or to go "— a sentimental shoutout to both the Colombian roots of Areiza and Isaza as well as the gastronomic diversity and bounty of South American countries like Colombia and neighboring Peru. The menu is highly personal, including the arepas Areiza used to make with his Mom, or Hummel's take on Pollo a Parrilla, that he discovered in a tiny restaurant in Cuzco.

Bacardi Legacy Finalist Moe Isaza will craft signature libations and curate pairings that riff on classic South American flavors and popular spirits, similar to the rum and mezcal-heavy beverages he crafts at Pammy's.

THE MENU
Tiradito al Pargo Rojo con Erizo de Mar y Leche de Tigre y Coco (red snapper sashimi, uni and coconut leche de tigre, rocoto chili jam, corn crunch)
Remolacha con Nueces de Macadamia y Queso de Mano (marinated beets, hand made cheese, cape berries, macadamia nuts)
Arepa con Pulpo, Aguate y Cebolla Escabeche (blue corn arepas, spanish octopus, avocado mousse, fermented onions, culantro)
Filete al Trapo, Hinojo Dorado, Sauco Jus de Carne (smoked beef tenderloin, caramelized fennel, quinoa, elderberry jus)
Maracuyá y Chocolate (Passionfruit parfait, dark chocolate cake)

Tickets for this 5-course meal begin at $65 with an optional $30 beverage pairing and are available via Eventbrite.

3) Sumiao Hunan Kitchen is pulling the (bar) curtain back on a secret cocktail program that will make it’s downlow debut, this month. Designed by Bar Manager, Vinicius Stein, the 25 drink repertoire can be accessed via invite only or by spilling the secret yourself at the bar. The program, which Stein has dubbed, “Walk Up The Wall of China,” is a multi-part challenge to cocktail enthusiasts beginning with a shot of Baijiu, the best selling spirit in the world yet uncommon among the Boston beverage scene.

The ancient Asian spirit is a staple in Stein’s cocktail program alongside a carefully curated selection of spirits, taste profiles and other unique accoutrements. Following the Baijiu initiation, guests will be invited to ring a Chinese bell at which point they will receive a personalized membership card to the program. Once initiated, guests will have the opportunity to extend invitations to fellow cocktail enthusiasts and challenge them to walk the wall and discover over two dozen off-menu, Asian and Hunanese influenced cocktail creations.

One of Sumiao’s standout secret cocktails includes The Emperor ($14), created with muddled fresh ginger and lime, Peloton de la Muerte Mezcal, Don Julio tequila, Crème Yvette, hibiscus liqueur, agave nectar and lime reduction that is delicately garnished with a mint leaf.

Available exclusively during the month of March, the beverage team has also created a $5.00 Hong Kong Mule ginger cocktail, inspired by Sumiao Hunan’s Kitchen’s dedicated support of Joslin Diabetes Center’s Asian American Diabetes Initiative (AADI). The Hong-Kong Mule further spotlights the beverage team’s celebration of Baijiu as an unsung hero in the cocktail world. A recreation of a Moscow mule, SHK’s Hong-Kong Mule marries HKB Hong-Kong baijiu and hibiscus liqueur that is topped off with ginger beer and a splash of fresh lime, garnished with fresh mint springs and a lime wedge.

4) Best Burger Bar brings Wild Game fare to Brookline. For the months of March and April, Best Burger Bar will be offering an array of wild game burgers. These burgers will be available in limited quantities, and once sold out they will move onto the next wild game special.

First up is the Wild Boar Burger, a Wild Boar Patty with Honey Crispy Apple Bacon Jam and Umami Aioli all on a Brioche bun. The Wild Boar meat tastes like a cross between pork and beef, with a unique rich and nutty flavor that adds to the depth of flavor in this burger. If you’re really feeling adventurous, Best Burger Bar is also offering the option to add dried scorpions to your burger! Other assorted bugs will be available as new wild game specials are released.

Best Burger Bar will also be offering three new cocktails in honor of the warmer weather that is upon us. These limited-edition cocktails will be available for the month of March only. The Concord Grape Fizz features Brockmans Gin, Pear Syrup, Lemon Juice, Egg White, and a Champagne Floater. The Violet Blue Margarita, a mix of Tequila, Lime Juice, Orange Curacao, Sesame Syrup, and Blue Curacao will be available by the glass, or in a fish bowl for sharing. The Violet Blue Fish Bowl will be available through the end of summer, the perfect beverage to share with friends on Best Burger Bar’s patio.

Wild game burgers are available from March 6 to April 30, 2018.
Cocktail specials are available for the month of March with an exception to the Fish Bowl which is available through Summer.

5) Sumiao Hunan Kitchen is gearing up for a one-time Sunday brunch event dubbed “A Pinch of Ginger.” The event will take place on March 25, from 11:30am-2pm, and will unite the Boston-area foodie and medical communities while supporting Joslin Diabetes Center’s Asian American Diabetes Initiative (AADI).

Sumiao Chen – the restaurateur behind Sumiao, the city’s first Hunanese restaurant – is a pharmaceutical researcher at Novartis by-day whose passion for food and science inspired her to get involved with Joslin’s signature spring fundraising event, “A Taste of Ginger.” This brunch will serve as a preview to “A Taste of Ginger” happening in April at the Museum of Fine Arts which will feature cuisine from more than 30 restaurants.

Joining forces with SHK for this buffet-style brunch will be Chen’s second restaurant, Fengshui, as well as China Pearl and BLR by Shojo under the leadership of Brian Moy, whose family will be honored at this year’s “A Taste of Ginger” event.

The restaurants will showcase dozens of creative “diabetes-friendly” brunch dishes such as Lava Fish with swai filet and duo jiao and String Beans with Eggplant while brunch-goers enjoy live entertainment from Receita de Samba and SHK’s ginger-themed cocktail specials: the Hong-King Mule (Hong-Kong baiju, hibiscus liqueur, ginger beer, fresh lime, garnished with mint sprigs - $5) and The Emperor (muddled fresh ginger and lime, Peloton de la Muerte Mezcal, Don Julio tequila, Crème Yvette, hibiscus liqueur, agave nectar and lime reduction garnished with a mint leaf - $14).

Proceeds from both Sumiao’s “A Pinch of Ginger” and Joslin’s “A Taste of Ginger” will benefit the Asian American Diabetes Initiative (AADI) at Joslin Diabetes Center which works to enhance the quality of life and health outcomes for Asian Americans living with diabetes, and collaborates with Joslin as they work to find a cure.

TICKETS: Tickets cost $35 per person and can be purchased online or in-person on a first come, first serve basis: www.giving.joslin.org/pinchofginger

6) On Monday, April 9, from 6:30pm-9:30pm, Joslin Diabetes Center’s will host the 14th annual “A Taste of Ginger” at the Museum of Fine Arts to benefit Joslin’s Asian American Diabetes Initiative (AADI) which works to enhance the quality of life and health outcomes for the rising number of Asian Americans living with diabetes, and collaborates with Joslin as they work to find a cure. Each year, hundreds of supporters and foodies gather to enjoy a lively evening full of cultural and musical performances and the opportunity to meet and taste the cuisine of more than 30 of Boston’s chefs such as Jasper White, Joanne Chang of Flour Bakery + Café, Andy Husbands of the Smoke Shop, Tracy Chang of Pagu, Karen Akunowicz of Myers + Chang, Sumiao Chen of Sumiao Hunan Kitchen and Avi Shemtov of the Chubby Chickpea, amidst the beauty of the MFA.

Emceed by NBC 10 Boston anchor and health reporter Kristy Lee, the event will honor the Moy family, restaurateurs and owners of China Pearl, Shojo, Rukus and BLR by Shojo. Longtime Joslin supporter and “A Taste of Ginger” founder Leverett Wing, whose parents helped to establish the AADI at Joslin, will serve as event chair.

Tickets to “A Taste of Ginger” are $250 and can be purchased at www.joslin.org/ginger. (Business casual attire required)

7) The Greeks have been making wine for more than 6000 years – from the age of Dionysus and Homer to the present day. But their wines have remained a mystery to many – until now. Winemakers from all over Greece are coming to Boston for Odyssey, a Greek wine tasting adventure. Expand your palate as you taste wines made from indigenous grapes found only in Greece; sip on international blends; and marvel at rare vintages uncorked just for Odyssey. Take the opportunity to support a great cause and experience the sights, sounds and tastes of Greece.

Attendees at the tasting will tour the three main wine producing regions: The Islands, The Peloponnese and Northern Greece each with characteristic terroirs, indigenous grapes and 6000 years of winemaking history; meet the winemakers and learn about their vinification techniques, terroir philosophies and personal stories; and of course, taste indigenous, international and rare varieties and vintages from the Cava Spiliadis portfolio. Odyssey is hosted by George Spiliadis, son of noted Milos restaurateur Costas Spiliadis.

The Odyssey event is being held on Friday, March 30, from 5pm-8pm at Post 390, at 406 Stuart St, Boston.

Cost: $50 per person with 100% of the ticket sales being donated to Boys and Girls Club of Boston
Details and Tickets https://www.eventbrite.com/e/wine-tasting-for-a-cause-boys-and-girls-clubs-of-boston-boston-tickets-43371024903

I'll be attending this event as I love Greek wines and always want to expand my palate and try more wines from this compelling country. I've previously several wines from the producer that will be at this event and I was impressed with what I tasted. This is going to be a killer wine event and highly recommended.

8) Chef Rick Araujo and his team at Civic Kitchen & Drink welcome Chef William Nemeroff of B.T.’s Smokehouse as the featured guest at Civic’s Guest Chef Collaboration Series. The special event takes place March 21, at 6pm, at Civic Kitchen and Drink.

“We are all about local product and the community, so we love taking this opportunity to showcase our local heroes in the culinary landscape” shares Araujo. “Bill is respected throughout the region for his fantastic BBQ dishes, and we can’t wait to welcome him to our kitchen on March 21. We’re going to be cooking up some amazing BBQ – I can’t wait to learn some of his secrets!”

The Menu:
BT’s 3 Year Aged Prosciutto with Assorted Sausages and Civic Accompaniments
Paired with Wormtown Helles Lager

Cold Smoked Faroe Island Salmon with house-made Crème Fraiche, Dill Pearls, Rye Crisp, Cured Spring Ridge Egg Yolk
Paired with Wormtown Irish Red Ale

Double Smoked Pork Jowl with Civic’s Four Star Farms Cheddar Grits and Vermont Plum Rumtopf and Local Pea Tendrils
Paired with Wormtown African Queen Be Hoppy IPA

BT’s 26 Hour Smoked Beef Brisket with Civic’s Roasted Carrot and Habanero Puree, Pickled Local Garlic Scapes and Two Potato Hash Browns
Paired with Wormtown Buddha Juice X2IPA

Banana Pudding with Civic Bourbon Roasted Banana Puree and Smoked Nuts
Paired with Wormtown Spies Like Us Imperial Stout

Cost: $59 per person
Reservations are highly recommend and can be made by calling 508-3429-5179 or visiting www.civickitchenanddrink.com and click the ‘order online’ button.

9) Matadora, the Spanish tapas restaurant located at the newly-renovated Hilton Boston/Woburn, will open for brunch on Easter Sunday, April 1, from 11am-2:30pm, offering a buffet brunch with a dash of Spanish flare.

The Menu includes:
Scrambled Eggs | Cage Free, Espelette
Home Fries | Pimenton, Peppers, Onion
Breakfast Meats | Sausage, Bacon
Torrijas | Traditional Spanish Grilled Breakfast Bread, Cinnamon, Honey
Spanish Chicken & Kale | Red Mojo
Hornazo | Traditional Spanish Meat Pie, Chorizo, Eggs, Manchego
Spanish Baked Salmon | Lemon, Pimenton, Dill
Assorted Breakfast Breads | Muffins, Danish, Bagels, Croissants, Breads
Waffle Bar | Whipped Cream, Strawberries, Salted Caramel, Maple Syrup, Chocolate Sauce
Oysters & Shrimp Cocktail | Pimenton Cocktail Sauce, Aleppo Sherry Mignonette
Parfait Bar | Yogurt, Granola, Fresh Fruit Selection
Caesar Salad | Romaine, Crouton, Pecorino
Strawberry Fields Salad | Field Greens, Caramelized Pecans, Strawberries, Balsamic
DESSERT
Almond Cake | Whipped Cream, Strawberry Compote
Mona de Pascua | Traditional Spanish Easter Cake
Mini Desserts | Chef Selection

Cost: Adult $34.95; Children $17
Reservations encouraged so please call 781-904-0658

2017: Favorite Spirits, Sake, Cocktails & Drink-Related Items

What were some of my favorite spirits and drink-related items of the past year?

Let me continue the lists of my best recommendations and favorites of 2017. I have already posted my Top Wine lists as well as Favorite Wine-Related Items. This post will now concentrate on some of my Favorite Spirits, Sake, Cocktails & Drink-Related Items. This is certainly not a complete list but it is more a sampling of compelling and memorable matters I have experienced and posted about over the past year.

This is also a purely subjective list, based on my own preferences, and makes no claims about being the "best" of anything. But all of the items here have earned my strong recommendations and I hope you will enjoy them as well. For more spirits, Sake, cocktails and drink-related items, you can just search my blog posts for the past year.

Favorite Achievement in Spirits Writing: This year, I'm especially proud of my article, An Expanded History of Pechuga Mezcal, where my research uncovered a wealth of documented references to Pechuga Mezcal, a type of mezcal that has been flavored with meat, as well as maybe some fruits and spices. Prior to my article, there were bottles from the 1930s that were labeled Pechuga but there was no known documentary evidence prior to that time. However, I found over 30 different written references to Pechuga before the 1930s, extending as far back as 1864. There is still more research needed in this area, but I was pleased to contribute my efforts to expanding the known history of this fascinating type of Mezcal.

Favorite Whisky Dinner: A great theme, killer whisky, and delicious food all combined to make the  Robert Burns Scotch Dinner at Civic Kitchen & Drink a wondrous experience. It was my first Burns Night celebration and I marveled at the ritual, the toasting, and the intriguing food, including Haggis, which I actually enjoyed very much. There was plenty of Scotch, each unique in its own right, and all quite tasty and complex. The crowd was fun and it was more than just a simple dinner, but an intriguing experience and the memories will remain for a very long time.

Favorite Blended Scotch Whisky: This year, I've attended two Compass Box tasting events, though I've only written about one of them so far. However, it is clear to me that Compass Box and its owner John Glaser are producing some excellent blended Scotches. I've enjoyed most of the portfolio that I've tasted and am impressed with the diversity of their whiskies. Their limited edition Double Single thoroughly impressed it, a silky smooth, complex and well-balanced whisky with a fascinating melange of flavors. There were hints of vanilla and caramel, berries and tropical fruit, herbs and spices. Each sip seemed to bring something new to my palate. Highly recommended.

Favorite Irish Whiskey: Tullamore DEW, the "official Irish whiskey" of the Boston Red Sox, is offered at the Tully Tavern, in Fenway Park, especially in the Monster Mule, a variation of the Moscow Mule that is made with 1 part Tullamore DEW, 4 parts Ginger Beer, and lime juice. They have a nice portfolio of whiskies, but my favorite was the Tullamore DEW 14 Year Old Single Malt which is matured in the usual three types of barrels, but then also spends a little time in Port and Madeira casks. On the nose, there are pleasant notes of apple and tropical fruit, and the palate also presents this fruit flavors, accompanied by a complex mix of vanilla, spice and caramel, with an elegant creaminess that caresses your palate. The finish lingers for quite a time and I can easily see myself sipping this all evening.

Favorite Whisky Rant: It is an issue which deserves attention but seems unlikely it will acquire what is needed. In my Rant, Whisky, Sherry Barrels & A Lack Of Transparency, I discuss how a number of whiskey producers are using Sherry-style barrels, from outside the legal Sherry region, but those barrels are still be labeled as Sherry barrels. Sherry is a protected term and it should be respected and honored yet some whiskey producers are failing to do so. We need more people to know that this problem exists and then hopefully a united effort and get whiskey producers to change their ways on this issue.

Favorite Spanish Whisky: Have you ever tasted whisky from Spain? Spain isn't a significant producer of whisky but you may hear more about Spain in the near future if whisky like the Navazos Palazzi Malt Whisky becomes more well known. Produced from malted barley grown in Spain, the whisky spends about four to six years aging in Palo Cortado Sherry casks, which is definitely a rarity in the whiskey industry. This whisky presents with a nice, dark amber color and its complex aroma is enticing, a blend of harmonious fruits and spices. You could easily sit and enjoy the diverse nose of this whiskey for quite some time before taking a sip. Your palate will be seduced by the complex, and sometimes subtle, melange of flavors that caress and tantalize. It is sweet, briny and savory, with plenty of fruit, from apples to raisins, as well as lots of spicy notes. Honey, caramel, and malt with clear Sherry notes and a long and lingering finish that satisfies to the last wispy taste. It is elegant and compelling, unique and delicious, a well-balanced whiskey that will surprise and delight.

Favorite Unique Whiskey: At The Townshend in Quincy, Palmer Matthews, their Bar Manager, introduced me to Dry Fly Distilling Straight Triticale Whiskey, which might be the only straight Triticale whiskey in the world. Triticale is a hybrid of rye and wheat which was created in Scotland in the late 19th century. I enjoyed a shot, chilled by a single large chunk of ice, and found the whiskey to be intriguing, with a nice spicy kick up front, which then became soft and almost sweet. As I love Rye whiskey, I savored the spicy element of the Triticale, but also liked how the wheat softened it more on the finish. If you want something more unusual, but still quite tasty seek out this Triticale.

Favorite Maryland Rye Whiskey: During a visit to the Tenth Ward Distilling Company, I had the chance to taste a few of their products and I was most taken with their Lindsay Stunkle Rye Whiskey which is named after a famous Prohibition-era bootlegger from Frederick, Maryland. This limited-release whiskey is made from a mashbill of 80% malted rye and 20% malted barley, and comes in at a whopping 120 proof. It is released twice a year, in June and November, and is intended for home aging. It is spicy and potent, enhanced by the addition of a little water, and will definitely appeal to rye lovers. There is complexity to its taste and a lengthy finish, and I would love to see this aged in the barrel for a number of years.

Runner-Up Favorite Maryland Rye Whiskey: Also from the Tenth Ward Distilling Company, a more unique Rye whiskey is the White Caraway Rye, which is made from a mashbill of 80% malted rye and 20% malted barley, and comes in at 95 proof. The spirit is mashed with caraway seed so it is intended to taste more like rye bread, though it may also remind you of Scandinavian Akvavit. I was captivated by the intriguing flavors of this spirit, as it certainly reminded me of spicy rye bread, with a hint of mint. Though you could drink this on its own, I think it would be best used in creating some fascinating cocktails.

Favorite Gin: As I've said before, I'm not usually a fan of gin, disliking the over-powering juniper flavor I find in many, but I have enjoyed some that I felt were more well-balanced. Certainly a more unique gin, the Pierde Almas 9+ Botanicals is actually a hybrid Mezcal/Gin, using Mezcal as the base spirit and then adding nine botanicals, including juniper, coriander, star anise, fennel seed, orange peel, cassia bark, angelica root, orris root, and nutmeg. On the nose, the piney aroma of juniper is dominant though beneath that aroma were more subtle herbal notes. Once you taste it, the Mezcal elements make themselves known, and it is an intriguing and complex spirit. There are plenty of citrus notes up front, with an interesting melange of spices and herbs, as well as a smoky edge, especially on the finish. The piney notes of the juniper became much more integrated into the whole, and the other botanicals joined the complex mix. This is definitely a sipping spirit, which is quite enjoyable neat, and each sip seems to bring new flavors to your palate.

Runner-Up Gin: From the McClintock Distilling Co. in Maryland, their Forager Gin is a vapor infused New-World style gin using about 18 botanicals inspired by native herbs found in the Appalachian wilderness. On the nose, there is a strong juniper aroma with subtle hints of other botanicals in the background. On the palate, the botanical mix is more balanced, and the complex melange of flavors delights the mouth. There are elements of fruit, mainly citrus, and floral flavors, with a sprinkle of spice elements. The gin should be served chilled, and would be delicious on its own, or used in cocktails.

Favorite Rum: Rum actually has a lengthy history in the Oaxaca region, a place best known for Mezcal. However, little Oaxacan rum makes it out of Mexico, which is a shame. One of the recent exports is the stellar Paranubes Rum, brought to you by the good people of Mezcal Vago. Made from sugar cane juice, and not molasses, the Paranubes is made in a very traditional manner, the current producer being at least the 3rd generation in his family to produce this rum. Its aroma is very funky and prominent, with a saline character that reminds me of the smell of the ocean or an olive tapenade. The aroma doesn't follow through much on the palate, which instead brings a mild sweetness, a touch of grassiness, and some citrus and tropical fruit flavors. It is more light and elegant, with a lengthy and pleasing finish. It reminds me of a Rhum Agricole, and its distinctive and unique aroma and taste certainly sets it apart. The Paranubes can be consumed on its own though it also would work well in a variety of cocktails.

Favorite Unique Rum: From Navazos Palazzi, which also made the Spanish whiskey I previously mentioned, comes another unique spirit, a Cask Strength Rum, aged in Sherry barrels. The base rum had been distilled in the Antilles, where it aged for five years in ex-Bourbon barrels, and then given to a Spanish Sherry bodega, where the rum further aged in Oloroso barrels for 10 years. The color of this rum was deep and dark, though with some translucence, reminding me in some ways of an aged Oloroso Sherry. I was enamored with the complex aromas that wafted up, seducing my nose. There was fruit and spice, nuts and chocolate, and it was a pleasure just to sit and enjoy the aromas. On the palate, I was initially pleased with the relative dryness of the rum. It wasn't one of the prominent sweet rums but rather its sweetness was of a more subtle nature, with underlying caramel, vanilla and molasses flavors. And the complexity of the nose was duplicated on the palate, such a compelling melange of flavors that seemed to present something new each sip I took. There was a certain nutty and saline character that reminded me of Sherry, but also bright citrus and plum notes. There were plenty of spicy elements, with a backbone of umami, and hints of leather. Elegant and fascinating, this rum had a pleasing, lengthy finish.

Favorite Mezcal: Pierde Almas, which made the Mezcal/Gin hybrid mentioned above, is primarily a Mezcal producer and they have an amazing portfolio. My current favorite is their  Maguey de Lumbre Mezcal, made from a rare and little-known agave. The aroma is more subtle, with hints of citrus and smoke, and the first taste is pure gustatory pleasure, a hedonistic revel in the complexities and flavors of the Mezcal. This was a compelling Mezcal and once I started looking deeper, it only became even more intriguing. Citrus notes dominated the flavor profile but there was much complexity providing harmony to the spirit. There was also a mild smokiness, subtle herbal accents, and wispy spice notes. Just sit and sip it and you'll realize the fascinating complexity of this spirit. The taste was clean and smooth, an elegant pleasure, something to slowly savor on a summer evening, though you could certainly enjoy this year round.

Favorite Pechuga Mezcal: Pierde Almas also produced my current favorite Pechuga Mezcal, the Mezcal de Conejo, which is produced using a rabbit. Pechuga is a type of mezcal that has been flavored with meat, as well as maybe some fruits and spices. Once I tasted this Pechuga, I was immediately struck by the anise notes in this Mezcal and then I could detect the ripe fruit flavors, especially pineapple, a mild smokiness, and a touch of a more wild and gamey element. It was complex and intriguing, a unique melange of flavors which should please any Mezcal lover. You wouldn't know this Mezcal was made with rabbit, but it still would make for an interesting addition to your Easter dinner.

Favorite Shochu: Shochu, a distilled spirit made in Japan, can be made from many different ingredients though sweet potato is considered one of the best choices. While dining at Tori Shin in New York City, I thoroughly enjoyed a glass of Shochu, the Tenshi no Yuwaku, which is a sweet potato Shochu that was fermented in Sherry casks for about 10 years. This is a more unique Shochu as few are ever aged this long. It's name translates as "Angel's Temptation," a reference to the Angel's Share, the amount of spirit that evaporates over time while it ages in a barrel. I enjoyed it neat, finding it rich and creamy, with intense Sherry notes, hints of sweetness, and plenty of complexity.

Favorite New Liqueur: A collaborative effort between companies in Britain & France, the Escubac seems to have its roots in Ireland. It is a "juniper-free botanical spirit," made from a base of neutral sugar beet alcohol with the addition of 14 botanicals. After it is distilled, they infuse it with saffron and sweeten it with raisins, vanilla, and sugar. The Escubac has some sweetness up front but it wasn't cloying or overly sweet, and it was complemented with a mix of citrus and herbal notes, with intriguing spice notes and a touch of bitterness. I was pleased with its complex and intriguing melange of flavors, and it can easily be used in a variety of cocktails.

Favorite Baijiu: With many Americans, the Chinese spirit Baijiu suffers an image problem, often considered to have a terrible, off-putting taste. Though there are some Baijiu with very strong aromas and tastes, others have much lighter and appealing flavors and are worthy of attention. Made in New Zealand, Taizi Baijiu, the creation of two Chinese brothers, would be a great introduction to Baijiu for anyone. With its clear color, the Baijiu has an intriguing nose of berries and licorice, and on your palate, the berry flavors are very prominent upfront with more licorice notes on the finish. It has a slightly oily texture, but drinks very smooth and balanced, and you wouldn't realize its high alcohol content. There is an underlying complexity, more subtle notes, including some herbal elements, accenting the Baijiu. One of the best Baijiu I've ever tasted, I highly recommend it.

Favorite Chicago Bars: On a whirlwind visit to Chicago, I was fortunate to visit two cool and compelling bars, including Income Tax and Estereo. Income Tax, which has been open for a year, is cozy and elegant, with a lengthy bar and a casual, welcoming vibe. Their drinks list is diverse and interesting, and they carry some Sherry by the glass. Their food is also quite tasty, and is great for pairing with a glass of wine or a cocktail. Service is excellent as well, and it is the type of neighborhood bar you really should frequent. Estereo is also a neighborhood bar, specializing in spirits from Mexico, Central America, and South America such as Cachaca, Pisco, Mezcal, Tequila, Sotol and more. Great cocktails, incredible diversity in their spirits, knowledgeable staff, and a fun & lively atmosphere make this a great place to drink.

Favorite Sherry Bar: Taberna de Haro wins this category hands-down, once again, as there is no other local restaurant which comes close. With over 60 Sherries, including some rarer bottlings, Chef/Owner Deborah Hansen has compiled an amazing Sherry list, offering a good number by the glass. The Sherries pair very well with her Spanish cuisine and I could easily sit at the bar all night sampling different Sherries, from a bone dry Fino to a sublime aged Palo Cortado. If you are ever in the area, you must stop here and try some Sherry.

Favorite Restaurant Cocktail: The Schrodinger's Coupe is available at Sumiao Hunan Kitchen, which makes several other Baijiu cocktails too. The Coupe is made with Baijiu, curaçao, grapefruit, lime and plum bitters. It's Baijiu taste was accompanied by some sour fruit flavors with a hint of grapefruit. It wasn't overly sweet and was a refreshing summer drink.

Favorite Restaurant Hot Cocktail: While at a Burns Night dinner at Civic Kitchen & Drink, we began the evening with the Ginger Rabbie, a hot cocktail, made with Towiemore Classic Scotch, tea, molasses, and ginger. It was similar in some respects to a hot toddy, only mildly alcoholic, lightly sweet, and with a pleasing taste of tea and spice. Great for the winter.

Favorite Daiginjo Sake: The Kirin-Zan Junmai Daiginjo, which comes in a cool pentagonal blue bottle, is a superb Sake, elegant and complex, with such an alluring taste. It is clean and bright, with subtle citrus notes, some peach and melon, and a lengthy, pleasing finish. It is said to be "reminiscent of a clean mountain stream," and it possesses such a sense of purity, a Sake that pairs perfectly with nigiri. This is a Sake which impresses and I highly recommend it. Find it locally at Pabu Boston.

Favorite Junmai Ginjo Sake: I was impressed with the unique Hakkaisan Snow-Aged Junmai Ginjo, which spends three years in an insulated storage room chilled only by 1000 tons of snow! It is a Genshu, undiluted by water, and has a high acidity. I found the Hakkaisan to have a more subtle aroma and on the palate presented an elegant, deep complexity with hints of melon and a touch of anise. It was full-bodied and smooth with rich, savory umami. A hedonistic pleasure that is extremely food friendly. It can be found locally at Reliable Market.

Runner-Up Favorite Junmai Ginjo Sake: While dining at Torishin, a killer Yakitori restaurant in New York City, I ordered a carafe of Fukuju Junmai Ginjo and it was so delicious I had to order a second carafe. The Sake was simply superb, with a dry, clean and elegant taste with plenty of fruit notes. It was silky smooth, drank so easily, and I could have sat all night savoring this Sake. Highly recommended.

Favorite Kimoto/Yamahai Sake: The Suehiro Densho Yamahai Junmai Sake is produced from Gohyakumangoku rice, and is a typical Yamahai Sake, with delicious earthy notes, high acidity and plenty of umami. It is easy drinking, smooth, and complex with a hint of citrus, smoke, and sweetness. Simply a delicious Sake, which will pair well with many different foods, from mushroom risotto to a grilled steak.

Runner-Up Favorite Kimoto/Yamahai Sake: The Sohomare Tokubetsu Kimoto Sake has a high acidity and it was quite compelling, a mellow and smooth-drinking Sake with plenty of delicious umami. It has a richness to the mouthfeel, a lengthy and satisfying finish, and is something I could sit and drink all day. There is a mild earthiness to the Sake which enhances the totality. A well-made and delicious Sake, it would be an excellent pairing with umami dishes, especially mushroom or truffle-based ones, and would also go well with various meats.

Favorite Sake Store: It is difficult to find a local wine shop that carries a large and diverse Sake selection. However, Reliable Market, in Union Square, Somerville, has been enlarging their selection, and stock many of their Sake in refrigerated cases. You'll find plenty of Sake, of all types, in regular-sized bottles as well as half-bottles, at a range of price points. They also carry both local Sakes, Dovetail (from Waltham) and Blue Current (from Kittery, Maine). Reliable Market probably has the best and largest Sake selection in the Boston-area and you should check it out.

Favorite Sake News: Back in April 2015, I posted an article, An Expanded History of Sake Brewing in the U.S., which discussed the early history of Sake breweries in the U.S. My research for this article included combing through hundreds of old newspapers, picking out tidbits of information that hadn't been previously collected into a single resource. It was a fascinating exploration, expanding my knowledge of this topic, and revealing intriguing facts which contradicted what many previously believed. This year, a Japanese man, who runs a packaging company, wrote an article for a Japanese Sake journal based upon my article and I wrote out it in My History of U.S. Sake Breweries Inspires A Journal Article. And fortunately, I got to meet the author last month when he visited Boston, and we drank plenty of Sake together.

Least Favorite Sake News: In Ugh! More Stinkin' Scores For Sake From Wine Advocate, I express my displeasure at the Wine Advocate for continuing to provide "scores" for Sake. I've been ranting about this issue since 2013 but it is more recently that the Wine Advocate has started providing Sake scores on a more regular basis. Their main effect seems to be raising prices and they don't seem to be sparking much discussion or interest on Sake. Even on the Robert Parker bulletin boards, Sake discussion is all but nonexistent. The scores aren't really helping anyone, and are probably hurting more, so they should be eliminated.

Favorite Beer: I dislike most beer, as I am very sensitive to the bitterness of hops and that taste turns me off. Every once in a while though, I find a beer that does appeal to me. This year, I was impressed with the The Flying Dog "Heat Series" Shishito Rice Ale. This beer is brewed with Shishito peppers, a generally sweet Asian pepper where about one in ten is spicy. I found this beer to be light, crisp and refreshing, lacking bitterness and with just a whisper of spicy heat, mainly on the finish. There are some subtle malty undertones and a couple hints reminding me of a Sake. It would be an excellent beverage on a hot, summer day.

Favorite Cider: From the Asturian region of Spain, the 1947 Sidra de Nueva Expresion is
is a Petillant Semi-Dry Cider, produced from a blend of 14 apple varieties, all from their own orchards, with a rough breakdown of about 75% sharp, 15% bitter-sharp and the rest bitter-sweet. Fermentation occurs in an open chestnut vat, with wild yeasts, and I was quite surprised that they also allow it to mature in the open vat for about 12 months! The vats are old, some being as much as a hundred years or more, and are quite large, about 15,000 liters. It possesses a strong, appealing apple aroma and on the palate, it presents as mostly dry and crisp, with strong apple flavors and only the slightest hint of sweetness. It also has a  mild effervescence, enough to be a nice palate cleanser and excellent for food pairings, and a lengthy pleasing finish.

Favorite Pear Cider: For the second year in a row, this Asturian pear cider, the Viuda de Angelón Sidra de Pera is the winner. The pear trees are wild, organic and over 70 years old. Once the pears are picked, they are first fermented in stainless steel, with wild yeasts, and then mature for about four months in chestnut vats. Then, they undergo a second fermentation in the tank. This is an impressive Perry, with a harmonious blend of earthiness with subtle pear flavor and a mild effervescence. It is dry and refreshing, with lots of depth. It would be excellent on its own or paired with food, especially something with umami.

Favorite Non-Alcoholic Cocktail: At Sumiao Hunan Kitchen, they have several cocktails, and I was impressed with their Sumiao Citrus, which is made with white grapefruit juice, lemon, simple syrup, blood orange puree, and orange garnish. This was an interesting concoction, not overly sweet, and was quite refreshing. The fruit flavors blended well together, presenting a tasty melange of flavors. If you aren't drinking something alcoholic with your meal, then this would be a good option.

Favorite Non-Alcoholic Drink: Switchel used to be popular in New England in the 17th century, and now seems to be making a bit of a comeback. At Russell Orchards in Ipswich, I bought their version of Switchel, which is made from with apple cider vinegar, apple cider, maple syrup, ginger and water, with the vinegar and cider made on their premises. It is unpasteurized so needs to be refrigerated. The Switchel possesses a distinctive ginger aroma and it is prominent on the palate too. It is dry with a prominent vinegar aspect, subtle apple notes, and a ginger backbone. It is refreshing and I see how it can be quite refreshing on a hot day. Plus, it makes for a great cocktail ingredient.

Favorite Canned Non-Alcoholic Drink: At Gre.co, a fast-casual Greek restaurant on Newbury Street in Boston, they have a few canned drinks including the Tuvunu Greek Mountain Tea, which is made from Sideritis, an indigenous perennial. The tea is flavored with brown cane sugar, wild blossom honey, and fresh squeezed lemon juice. It was delicious, with only a mild sweetness, and pleasing tea notes and an herbal backbone. It is refreshing and you could easily drink can after can without feeling bloated or overwhelmed by sugar as you can be with soda.

What were some of your favorite spirits and drink-related items this year?