Rant: Eliminating Sake Tariffs?

Sake lovers have been excited and hopeful after hearing recent news that Japan was considering pushing for the elimination of Sake tariffs, for both exports and imports. If this occurred, Sake prices would probably decrease and it would be likely that much more Sake would be imported into the U.S., increasing diversity and choice.

This sounds great but how likely is it to occur? Consider me skeptical.

We need to place this new in its proper context, and when we do, it seems unlikely to come to pass as currently envisioned. Japan's discussion of the elimination of Sake tariffs revolves around negotiations of the Trans-Pacific Partnership (TPP), a "free trade" agreement among 12 countries, including the U.S. that is currently negotiating a final agreement. However, the TPP and its negotiations have been plagued with controversy and there has been much opposition to it. A quick Google search leads to numerous negative articles concerning the TPP, and very few positive ones. After checking out a number of these various articles, I am very skeptical that the Sake tariff issue will get resolved anytime soon, if at all.

First, the TPP has been cloaked in secrecy, even from much of Congress, which has bothered both Democrats and Republicans. Though there have been bipartisan efforts to make TPP negotiations more transparent, they have met significant resistance by the current administration. Information about the TPP has only come to the forefront of attention recently because of some leaked documents which have angered people over proposed provisions which would give corporations greater powers.

There are also allegations that TPP is more about protectionism than free trade, that it will provide little direct economic benefit to the U.S., and more. All of this controversy could potentially prevent the completion of this agreement, or at least drastically alter its contents. As much of this controversy is recent, due to the leaked documents, the TTP will undergo even more scrutiny in the coming months, which is likely to delay and potentially derail negotiations.

However, there is a better way to accomplish Japan's goal, if they are truly serious, and Japan has already taken this path with another country. In 2007, Japan and Chile engaged in an Economic Partnership Agreement whereby Chile immediately eliminated their tariffs on Sake in exchange for Japan gradually eliminating their tariffs on Chilean wine. That end result led to increased Sake exports to Chile, as well as more Chilean wines being sent to Japan.

Why couldn't Japan do the same with the U.S., drafting a similar economic agreement? I am sure U.S. wineries would be excited if Japanese tariffs were lifted or reduced, allowing them to sell more wines in Japan. U.S. Sake lovers would benefit too by lower prices and greater diversity. All of the controversy of TPP could be avoided, and it would not take as long to iron out an agreement with just the U.S. as opposed to 12 countries trying to make an agreement.

Kanpai!

Rant: A Conveyor Belt Of No Respect

Ten million men and I share the same genetic abnormality yet it is a problem that few talk about, and even fewer do anything to help. It is an issue that gets no respect yet as it affects 7% of the male population it is something that needs to be brought forth, considered and addressed. Last night, this issue arose for me again when I dined at a new sushi joint.

What is my problem? I am color blind and more specifically, I possess a red-green color blindness. I can see colors, including red and green. However, I can't differentiate between as many shades of red and green as other people. An average person might be able to see ten different shades of red though I might only see five shades. I can determine the correct colors of traffic lights but matching the colors of my clothes is occasionally a challenge.

Color blindness is caused by the lack of certain pigments in nerve cells of the eyes, and red-green color blindness is the most common form. There is also a blue-yellow form though it is much less common. It is a condition mostly prevalent in men and only about 0.4% of women are color blind. Despite its prevalence in men, when is the last time you saw a business worrying about anyone being color blind?

Last night, I stopped at Enso Sushi, a new kaiten-zushi restaurant where sushi glides through the dining room on a conveyor belt. When a dish that appeals to you passes by, you take it off the belt. Each plate is color coded to a specific price so that when your meal is over, the server can easily determine your bill through counting the colored plates in front of you. You receive a color coded menu so you can determine the cost of each item. Most prices range from $2-$5 per plate, with a few specials above that cost.

My problem was that two of the colors looked essentially the same to me, and the difference in their price was about $2. If I just took a plate off the belt, I might have chosen a dish that costs $2 more than I thought it did because I got the color wrong. That could be a significant issue. With some time and effort in analyzing the menu, I was largely able to differentiate which dish cost which amount, but it was a bit of a hassle and should not have been necessary.

The restaurant had other identification options available beside using color coding. For example, they could have assigned each plate a certain letter or number and thus avoided causing any issue with the color blind. I think it is safe to assume that they never considered the issue of the color blind when choosing their color coded system.

I have encountered this issue before in other color coding situations, such as guide books and maps. For instance, I own a sustainable sushi guide that used a color coded system to indicate which seafood was a Good Choice and which was Avoid. The problem was that the colors used for those two designations looked basically the same to me. That was a significant problem and I am not alone in  my difficulties. There are ten million other color blind men.

Color coding may seem to make it easy for many people yet it also makes it much more difficult for others. Restaurants, writers, publishers, and businesses or all types should consider the fact that there is a significant amount of men who are color blind. We deserve respect too.

Saké & Diplomacy

What will President Barack Obama think about Saké? We might found out in November. And why is that so?

As Saké consumption in Japan has been declining for years, it is always good to hear hopeful news. A recent article in The Japan Times Online, "Presence of Sake Grows in Diplomacy," provided such good news.

When the Foreign Ministry of the Japanese government held banquets for foreign dignitaries, they used to serve mainly wine. Wine was considered easier to handle as well as easier to pair with food. Plus it was something foreign dignitaries were familiar with, and would enjoy. But Saké has begun to be served more at these dinners, promoting this national treasure. I think that is a great idea, to spread the love for this special ambrosia.

Between 2005 and 2009, the Foreign Ministry bought 2,500 bottles of wine worth about $149,000 and only 737 bottles of Saké, valued at about $21,000. The regular use of Saké at formal functions got a major boost at the Group of Eight summit in July 2008. The dignitaries toasted with Saké and this tradition has started to catch on to other banquets and celebrations.

This is not contained to just events within Japan as Japanese diplomatic missions overseas have also been heavily promoting Saké. They have participated in the organization of large-scale Saké tastings in places such as London, Sydney and The Hague. This will hopefully lead to a larger audience worldwide for Saké.

President Barack Obama may have his opportunity to drink some Saké at the summit of the Asia-Pacific Economic Cooperation forum to be held in Yokohama in November. If Saké continues to be served at their goverment functions, then President Obama may lift an ochoko, toast "Kanpai" and drink some Nihonshu.

What will the President think about Saké?

Mutineer Magazine: An Improved New Issue

The latest issue, their sixth, of Mutineer Magazine (June/July 2009) is now available at local newstands. I previously reviewed their fifth issue and I was conflicted about it, liking some of it but also disliking other parts. I saw potential for the magazine so was very curious to see their next issue. Would it be any better, or would it just be more of the same?

Now that I have read the new issue, I am pleased to say the magazine has improved and I enjoyed it much more than the previous one. Like the previous issue, this one is 82 pages long and costs $4.50.

One of my most significant criticisms was that some of their articles about blogging were repetitive of what I had previously read online. I was not keen on paying for such articles, paying for what I had already read for free. The new issue though has little repetitive information and actually does not cover much about blogging. For example, their previous column, "From the Mutineer Blog," has been omitted. This is good as it only was excerpts from their online blog. There is another amusing bit of wine satire written by the Hose Master of Wine, which is good to see. There is also The Final Word by Tom Wark, of Fermentation, which is a repeat of one of his blog posts. That one-page article is basically the only repetitive one.

What else will you find within this issue? There is a Photo Log of pictures from all across the country including a photo taken at the Boston Wine School (though the photo misidentifies two people, Marc Bergeron and John Commando). Some of the other articles you will find include: Ask The Wine Adviser (wine Q&A); an interview with Shira Lane, the director of Got the Facts on Milk; book reviews; a restaurant review of Purple Cafe in Seattle; the architecture of Napa Valley; artisan distilleries of the Pacific Northwest (my favorite article this issue); information about Absinthe; an article on Maker's Mark; an interview with Max Riedel (of glassware fame); and much more.

There is also a compelling section on A Child's Right, a water relief organization which has been bringing clean, safe drinking water to children all over the world. There is a photo essay of children in Ethiopia as well as an interview with Eric Stowe, executive director of A Child's Right. Please check out this article and support this important organization.

Mutineer has also tried an experiment, using ScanLife EZcodes in some of the articles of the magazine. Your iPhone or Blackberry can take a photo of the ScanLife which will then be analyzed and take you to a website for additionl information. I found that it was not so easy to take a clear enough picture of the ScanLife so that my iPhone could decipher it. That might just be an issue of needing additional experience. But, I am not sure it is any easier to analyze the ScanLife than it would be to type in an URL into my browser.

This issue has once again provided a diverse selection of topics with plenty of good photography. I found many more articles in this issue that interested me. Plus there was very little that I had previously read online. I like that the magazine is clearly providing coverage for all types of beverages, and not just wine and beer. I hope that Mutineer Magazine continues to improve and I recommend you check out their latest issue.

Mutineer Magazine: Now on Newstands

Is wine print media dead? Not by a long shot. In fact, another new wine magazine has hit newstands at places such as Barnes & Noble and Borders book stores. The latest issue, their fifth, of Mutineer Magazine (April/May 2009) is now available. Previous issues were only available online. Mutineer Magazine is currently a bimonthly magazine though they have eventual plans to make it monthly. The fifth issue is 82 pages long and has a reasonable cover price of $4.50.

According to their site: "Mutineer Magazine is a fine beverage publication unlike any other you’ve ever read. Founded by Sommelier Alan Kropf and beer expert JJ Bagley, Mutineer Magazine covers all things fine beverage with an emphasis on wine, beer and spirits. As informative as it is approachable, Mutineer Magazine will change the way you read about fine beverages." Like Imbibe magazine, Mutineer covers all beverages, from soda to wine, from coffee to cocktails, and everything in between.

This magazine has received much praise from other wine bloggers. I suspect that a primary reason for this acclaim is that the magazine highlights the efforts of many different bloggers, far more than any other existing wine magazine. Simply put, it is very blog friendly and that will obviously appeal to bloggers. They receive attention that is largely absent from other wine print media.

The magazine has a column, "From the Mutineer Blog," which provides excerpts from their own blog. This issue also had an amusing bit of wine satire written by the HoseMaster, an irreverant wine blogger known for his photos of nude and semi-nude women. There is also an article on the recent 2009 American Wine Blog Awards, with descriptions of all the finalists and winners. But they don't just discuss wine bloggers. The issue even has an interesting survey of spirits bloggers as well as a list of 16 recommended spirits blogs.

This emphasis on blogs can only help spread the word about wine, beer and spirits blogging and likely will increase readership of blogs. Mutineer certainly deserves kudos for their support of blogging. But, as practical matter, for those who are already bloggers and read other blogs, some of the articles in this magazine may be repetitive of what you might have already read. For example, I really gained little from the American Wine Blog Awards article. Plus, as I read the Mutineer blog, the excerpts from their blog in the magazine were repetitive.

As one of the magazine's founders is a beer expert, then you can expect a fair share of beer coverage. This issue has two major articles on beer, one on beer and food pairings and the other is an interview with Jim Koch, founder of the Boston Beer Company. Personally, as I dislike beer, these articles did not appeal to me. Though if you like beer, I am sure both articles will appeal to you. They are well written and informative articles.

Some of the other articles you will find include: wine and soup pairings, from chicken soup to beef stew; a restaurant review of Falcon Hollywood; some food and drink recipes for home entertaining; the coffee houses of Seattle; a photo report by Zane Lamprey, host of the television show "Three Sheets"; and a debate on the proposed Oregon excise tax increase on brewers. All in all, a diverse selection of topics and the articles often possess some nice photography. It is a slick, aesthetically pleasing magazine.

Overall, I am a bit conflicted about this magazine. It has some good points, including its promotion of blogs, but then it also feels like I am paying for some information I read for free online. This particular issue also did not have too many articles that really interested me, though that is partially a matter of personal preference. I read plenty of magazines where a particular issue may not appeal to me though overall other issues make up for that. Mutineer Magazine has plenty of potential and I hope that I will enjoy future issues more.

Mutineer Magazine is coming to the Boston area as part of a promotional tour. Alan Kropf, founder and editor, will be at the Boston Wine School on April 14. He will first lead a workshop on beverage writing and publishing. Then, there will be a mini-launch party at 7pm. Tickets cost your age. You pay $21 up front and then the rest at the door, to benefit the Greater Boston Food Bank. One of the highlights will be when publisher Alan Kropf stages his Wine Snob Smack Down!

Foie Gras: The Controversy & Debate

Do you enjoy foie gras? Are you opposed to it, thinking it is cruel? Or do you fall somewhere in the middle, maybe unsure about the issue? Today, let us explore the foie gras controversy and set the ground work for discussion and debate.

Please note that some of the items in this post come from The Foie Gras Wars by Mark Caro, a book I recently reviewed and recommended. I'll note the page numbers for the items I present.

It is difficult to even phrase an initial question concerning the foie gras controversy because the phrasing might bias the answer, or the question may be ambiguous. For example, say we ask, is the production of foie gras cruel? The problem is with the definition of "cruel?" Couldn't we say that the raising of nearly all animals is cruel in some respect? As another example, we might ask whether ducks raised for foie gras suffer? But then what is the definition of "suffer?" Doesn't the raising of all animals involve suffering in some respect?

Maybe instead we should qualify our questions with terms such as "unnecessary" or "extreme" cruelty or suffering. But even those definitions are likely to cause problems. Despite these difficulties, we still can have a meaningful discussion about this subject. We just may have to be more creative in how we approach the matter.

For many, "Suffering remains the accepted yardsick for assessing the welfare of any "sentient being." (p.19) Yet defining that term remains a significant issue. Not everyone uses the same standards to assess it. If someone is concerned about any and all animal suffering, then they would likely have to be opposed to any raising of animals for food or other items. Yet all animals are not treated the same. So, we can at least try to compare the treatment of different animals to see which might suffer more.

Consider first that close to 10 billion animals are killed each year and almost 9 billion of them are "broiler" chickens, which are raised for their meat. (p.19) More than 95% of all animals raised in the U.S. are thought to be involved in food production. About 20 million animals are used in testing. (p.56)

Most of those billions of chickens are raised in huge factory farms where they are kept in tiny cages in horrendous conditions. If you are concerned about cruelty to animals, you might want to speak out about those factory farms especially when they involve so many billions of animals. Consider this as well: When a male version of an egg-laying chicken is born, they are usually killed, often gassed with C02. They are considered useless as they can't lay eggs and are a different genetic strain than broiler chickens. (p.19)

Hogs and cattle are also raised on factory farms, and they too have their significant share of problems, harsh conditions which lead to animal suffering. Check out Righteous Porkchop for much more information about the horrors of these factory farms. Plus, these factory farms are environmental hazards and the problems are much deeper than just animal cruelty. With such vast issues, then why should people be so vocal about ducks and foie gras?

How big is the foie gras industry in the U.S? Consider that approximately 500,000 ducks a year are slaughtered for foie gras. Some factory farms kill that many broiler chickens in a single day. (p.69) So we can see that foie gras production is a very small operation. By sheers numbers, we should be far more concerned about chickens and other animals before foie gras. So why does it seem that the opposition to foie gras is so much more prevalent and vocal?

For one thing, and which is quite important, because the foie gras industry is small, its response to criticisms, boycotts and such is usually equally small. They lack the mighty industries, with their accompanying wealth, that are behind chicken and pork. So foie gras is a far easier target. Rather than take on billion dollar industries, the protesters would rather take on a mere handful of duck farmers. And in doing so, these protesters ignore far greater problems.

Criticism of foie gras production generally centers on the process of "gavage," the "force feeding" of the ducks and geese. I am not sure many people fully understand this process though. The term itself, force feeding, seems to carry significant negative connotations. Yet what is the reality? One caveat is that we cannot anthropomorphize ducks and geese. They are animals and don't have the same biology as humans. They don't feel the same things, in the same way, that we do. So, if we are trying to determine whether these birds suffer, we must consider such suffering from the point of view of the birds, and not how a human would view it.

Ducks raised for foie gras generally spend their first 12 weeks as free range birds, and there is no force feeding done during that time. They essentially live pleasant lives and you would be hard pressed to say that they suffer in any respect, unless you are completely opposed to raising animals. As a comparison, regular ducks that are slaughtered just for their meat live for only about 5.5 weeks. Broiler chickens generally live for only about 6-7 weeks. So we can see that foie gras ducks actually live at least twice as long as these other birds. That is surely a benefit to being such a duck.

After the 12 week period, foie gras ducks are moved to either group pens (in the U.S.) or individual cages (in France and Canada). Gavage will then be conducted 2-3 times a day over a period of 2-4 weeks. If the process is done over four weeks, the feeding is done more gradually. In this force feeding, a metal tube or pipe is lowered into a ducks's throat for about 2-10 seconds while the food is being introduced. Did you realize how quick this was done? How much does a duck suffer during these very brief instances of force feeding?

Gavage is supposed to mimic in some respects how birds gorge themselves prior to migration. (p.6) This is a good example of why we should not anthropomorphize these birds. Unlike humans, these birds have systems designed to accomodate such over eating. There are veterinarians who support that gavage is not cruel. (p.44) Yet there remain those who are vehemently opposed to this practice. Who is correct?

For further consideration, you should also read a recent letter written by the owners of Incanto restaurant in San Francisco. The letter, Shock & Foie: The War Against Dietary Self-Determinism, is a well written, cogent and compelling argument in support of foie gras. I highly recommend you read it and carefully consider its contents.

So where do you stand on the foie gras controversy? Please post your thoughts in the comments. If you have written before on this subject, please post links to your articles in the comments as well.

Foie Gras: Intriguing Information

Do you enjoy foie gras? Are you opposed to it, thinking it is cruel? Or do you fall somewhere in the middle, mabe unsure about the issue? Whatever your position, there are matters about foie gras that you may not know and which you might find interesting.

I hope to provide some enlightment here, to point out some fascinating items about foie gras, including some things I did not know. Please note that these items all come from The Foie Gras Wars by Mark Caro, a book I reviewed and recommended yesterday. I'll note the page numbers for the items I present.

"Foie gras" is French and is translated as "fat liver." But, "foie" has its roots in ancient Latin and refers to "figs." Marcus Gavius Apicius, a famous Roman gourmet and perhaps the original author of a cookbook called Apicius, created a method to stuff geese with dried figs to enlarge their livers. These livers became known as iecur ficatum, "iecur" meaning "animal liver" and "ficatum" referring to the "figs." Ficatum then became the root for "liver" in the words foie (French), higado (Spanish) and fegato (Italian). (p.25)

If you dine on a dish of seared foie gras, it most likely came from a male Mulard duck. Though geese once were most commonly used, there was an eventual move towards ducks as they are easier and faster to raise than geese. The cross-bred Mulard became the most popular duck because it was heartier and less tempermental than other duck breeds. As an example of their popularity, France in 2007 raised approximately 35 million Mulards as opposed to only about 800,000 geese. (p.33). Male ducks are usually used as female ducks have more veins in their livers and they also tend to be more tempermental. (p.89)

There are two different processes for extracting the liver from a duck or goose, referred to as either hot or cold evisceration. In France and Canada, they commonly use hot evisceration. In this process, they hang the duck, stun it, kill it, pluck it, and then cut it open and take out the liver. As the liver is at body temperature, it is still hot and slippery and thus does not take a shape. Being so pliable, it is often placed into molds. The old French style, as well as that used in Israel, is cold evisceration. In this process, they hang the duck, stun it, kill it, pluck it, and then put it in a refrigerator over night. When the liver is removed the next day, it has its characteristic shape. It will then be sold in lobes, later to be sliced and seared. (p.98)

Each of these processes imparts specific chemical properties to the liver, causing them to react differently to various cooking methods. The hot style is preferrable for slow cooking methods such as for a terrine. Searing this style would render far too much fat, which is undesirable. The cold style though retains its fat much better when it is seared. (p.98) Foie gras comes in three different quality levels, marked as A, B & C, where A is the highest quality. (p.97)

It probably comes as no surprise that France accounts for about 80% of all foie gras production, and 90% of its consumption. (p.230) At numerous farms in France, you can even enjoy a special Foie Gras Weekend where you will slaughter your own duck and then make foie gras, which you can take home with you. (p.248) How many of you would sign up for such a weekend? Yes, I would do this if I had the opportunity.

What might surprise you is that at the end of twentieth century, Israel was one of world's top exporters of foie gras. (p.32) Unfortunately, in 2003, the Supreme Court in Israel banned foie gras production. They applied anticruelty laws to force feeding and concluded foie gras production should be banned. (p.33)

Three are about three foie gras producers in the United States. One of the most famous is Hudson Valley Foie Gras, though it actually is not located in the Hudson Valley. It is located about 70 miles southwest in Sullivan County at the base of the Catskill Mountains in New York. (p.47)

Ever hear of a quackeasy? When Chicago banned foie gras, underground places that served the illegal foie were referred to as quackeasies, akin to the speakeasies during Prohibition. (p.202)

Tomorrow, I'll touch on matters related to the foie gras controversy, hoping to spur on some debate.

The Foie Gras Wars

This is not going to endear me to PETA, but I love foie gras. Sear me a piece of foie gras and I'll savor the crispy exterior and the silky interior. It can make such an exceptionally delicious dish, prepared in a multitude of ways. I have no regrets or moral qualms over enjoying foie gras and have no plans to stop eating it.

As I enjoy foie gras so much, I was certainly intrigued when I found a new book about it, The Foie Gras Wars: How a 5,000-Year-Old Delicacy Inspired the World's Fiercest Food Fight by Mark Caro (Simon & Schuster, February 2009, $25). Caro is an award-winning entertainment reporter for the Chicago Tribune. He originally wrote a front-page story about the foie gras controversy occurring in Chicago, and this eventually led to the creation of this book.

Caro takes an expansive look at the controversial issues surrounding foie gras. Learn about the history of foie gras, extending back 5000 years to ancient Egypt. Visit farms in the United States and France where ducks and geese are raised for their livers. Explore the biology of ducks and geese to assist in determining whether they suffer from being force fed. Follow anti-foie gras activists on their protests. Talk with various chefs about their feelings, for and against, foie gras. Gain a better understanding of all of the issues revolving around foie gras.

I found this book to be quite engaging, hooking me right from the start. The centerpiece of the book is Chicago, where foie gras was banned for a short time. Leading chefs, such as Chefs Charlie Trotter and Rick Tramanto, in the city were on opposing sides of the controversy, some being quite vocal and adversarial. Yet Chicago was not the only place battling over foie gras and Caro discusses much more than just Chicago.

This is a fascinating story about an intriguing subject. Caro is a talented writer and you won't be bored with his prose. He also presents a very balanced and fair examination of the foie gras controversy. I think it will give everyone something to think about, which ever side of the matter you fall upon. I certainly learned some new things about foie gras.

I definitely recommend this book. And I am going to be following up this review with additional posts about foie gras, based on information from this book. I would like to open up a dialogue on foie gras, to explore and debate the issues.

As I previously stated in my Itadakimasu post, "Let us step back and think more about the sources of our food." And Foie Gras Wars is another step on that road.

Ristorante Pavarotti: Opening Feb.13

Ristorante Pavarotti, a new Italian restaurant located at the site of the former Savory Tastes Cafe, will open on February 13 at 5pm. It is now taking reservations for Valentine's Day.

I have been unable to find a website for this restaurant and phone calls only reach an answering machine so I have not yet seen a menu. They applied for a wine and malt license so they will likely only serve beer and wine.

It will be interesting to see how this new restaurant fares with Venetian Moon, an Italian restaurant and martini bar, being just down the street. Venetian Moon is a very popular place so Ristorante Pavarotti has their work cut out for them. I will check them out in the near future and will report back once I have done so.

Ristorante Pavarotti
601 Main St.
Reading, MA
Phone: 781-670-9050

Stoneham Sun: What's New in Stoneham

My new column of "A Passionate Foodie" can be found in the October 29 issue (it was delayed a week) of the Stoneham Sun newspaper. This is a weekly column that concentrates on reviews of local restaurants though it may also touch on a few other food and wine topics.

The new column has been published today and is also available online. The new column discusses some of the latest changes and events in the culinary world in Stoneham, as well as some of the future changes coming. Learn what is going on at Melissa's Main Street Bistro, Pignone's Cafe, Bacci, Georgie D's Place and Honey Dew Donuts.

As an addition, a new Thai restaurant, House of Siam, is going into the space where Georgie D's Place used to be. House of Siam is supposed to open in November.

If you have any questions or comments about my column, feel free to add them here.

Dine with passion.

Boston Globe Highlights Some Adonna Import Wines

In the today's Boston Globe, their "Plonk of the Month" column provides recommendations for five inexpensive Italian wines. Of those five wines, at least three of them are distributed by Adonna Imports, one of my favorite distributors.

Their wines include: 2004 Le Piane "La Maggiorina" Colline Novaresi, 2006 Martilde Oltrepo Pavese Barbera and 2006 G.D. Vajra Langhe Rosso. I would second the Globe's recommendations of both the La Maggiorina and Langhe Rosso. I have not had the Oltrepo before though I have had other wines from that winery that I enjoyed.

Though the Globe provided some stores where you can find these wines, there are other locations as well where you can buy them. Just ask if your local wine store carries wines from Adonna Imports.

Chocolee Chococlates: Cookie Recipe

I have become a fan of Chocolee Chocolates so it was good to find an article, Sweet Dreams, in today's Boston Herald about Pastry Chef Lee Napoli and her excellent chocolates. Her chocolates filled with salted caramel are still my favorites.

What makes this article even more interesting is that Lee has shared her favorite Chocolate Chip Cookie recipe. It is a bit too hot right now to bake some cookies but maybe on a cooler day in the near future I will whip a batch to see how I like them. If you use her recipe, please come back and tell me what you thought.

Age Affects Which Restaurants You Frequent

How old are you? Do you think your age group is a factor in the type of restaurants you frequent? It would seem that would be the case, but how significant is the correlation?

Technomic, a food service consultant, has released a new report, the Generational Consumer Trend, which indicates how significant age plays a role. QSR Magazine posted an article yesterday about this report.

The report broke down the population into three age groups: Baby Boomers (age 43-), Generation X (age 32-42) and Millennials (age 16-31). But they also examined the differences within each age group as well.

It does not surprise me that Millennials were the largest users of natural/organic foods. Baby boomers are more interested in limiting trans fats. Interestingly, nearly half of all Millennials eat more meals away from home than at home. I think we need to show Millenials the joy of cooking for themselves. I somehow douby they are major purchasers of cookbooks. Only 4 in 10 Generation Xers dine out more frequently than they eat at home. A little better than Millenials but still a significant number. Baby Boomers though tend to eat out mainly for special occasions. That seems to be the opposite extreme. Maybe they need to get out more, to simply enjoy the fine food that can be found at restaurants. A nice balance between dining out and eating at home would be best.

There were also some interesting findings concerning ordering food online. Millennials are the most open to using the Internet to order food, though there is a significant difference between men and women. Women are far more likely than men to place online orders for takeout and delivery. Why would women be more likely to do that than men? Do men feel a greater need for human interaction when placing a food order? Must they talk to a real person on the phone? Or do they feel the need to order takeout when they get to a restaurant?

Are Spanish Diners Being Poisoned?

Are Spanish diners being poisoned? Is molecular gastronomy a threat to your life?

At least one Spanish chef is warning of the potential dangers of this cuisine and his views have garnered quite a heated discussion. The New York Times recently posted an article by Victoria Burnett, Spain’s Top Chefs Clash Over Ingredients and Culinary Innovations, which discusses this intriguing issue.

Molecular gastronomy is very hot in Spain and masters of this cuisine have garnered quite a lot of Michelin stars. The king of this cuisine is Ferran Adria, owner and chef of the famed El Bulli.

But Spanish Chef Santi Santamaría has attacked those chefs, "... accusing them of producing pretentious food they would not eat themselves — and potentially poisoning diners with chemicals that he says have no place in the kitchen." Santamaría recently accepted a prize for his new book, “La Cocina al Desnudo” (“The Kitchen Laid Bare”). He prefers more traditional cooking, using natural ingredients.

Santamaría’s targets have fought back, stating that many of the ingredients they use are natural and those that are not, are harmless. Some also feel it may be a bit of sour grapes, that Santmaria has not garnered the fame of someone like Adria.

While I was in Spain, I dined at Restaurante Martin Berasategui in Lasarte, just outside San Sebastian. This is a Michelin Three-Star restaurant and they do engage in some molecular gastronomy. I thought it was an exceptional dinner and the fact that it was not traditional did not bother me in the least. I had plenty of more traditional meals while I was in Spain so this was I was glad to have something different. I believe many of the ingredients were quite fresh and locally acquired. I certainly never felt that there was any danger in eating such cuisine.

Spain is certainly large enough for both tradition and innovation. It would be boring if all restaurants were the same. I also have not heard before anyone else claiming that such molecular gastronomy was potentially a poison risk. Has anyone ever been harmed by such? Or it is more baseless fear-mongering? This cuisine has been around for some time and I would think any potential harms would have already been eradicated.

What do you think? Is there anything wrong with molecular gastronomy?

Do Women Have More Taste Buds?

Do women really have more taste buds than men?

I recently made a post, Women & Wine: Once Again, which has garnered some discussion. The post reported that women buy more wine than men, and that women have more taste buds than men. There was some discussion back and forth on these matters. I decided to do some further research on the taste bud issue.

I found that around 1991, Linda Bartoshuk, a professor of otolaryngology and psychology at the Yale School of Medicine, did research on taste sensitivities. She eventually coined the term "supertaster" to refer to those people born with extra taste buds. Flavors are enhanced for these people. For example, some vegetables may taste overly bitter, chili peppers may taste hotter and sugar may taste sweeter. In contrast to the supertasters, there are also "nontasters" who have a diminished number of taste buds and thus cannot detect some flavors. Thus, they prefer the tastes of sweets, alcohol, and fatty foods. Finally, there are the "tasters" who have an average number of taste buds and fall between the two extremes.

It is estimated that about 25% of the population are supertasters, 25% are nontasters and 50% are tasters. For American Caucasians, about 35% of women and only 15% of men are supertasters. Thus, on average, women do have more taste buds than men. Supertasters have at least twice as many taste buds as others.

Interestingly, the number of taste buds varies in different animals. For example, cows have 25,000 taste buds and rabbits 17,000 while human adults have only about 10,000. Mmm...are cows supertasters then? Though they have longer tongues so the amount of taste buds per square inch may be less than humans. But rabbits have comparatively smaller tongues, and more taste buds, so are they the real supertasters?

In humans, the difference in the number of taste buds can vary widely. You could have from 11 to 1,100 taste buds per square inch. On average, supertasters have 425 taste buds per square centimeter on the tips of their tongues, compared to 184 for tasters and 96 for nontasters. The number of taste buds also varies by ethnicity. For examples, Asians seem to have a higher proportion of supertasters.

Another interesting fact is that women tend to be either super­tasters or nontasters, while men tend more often to be regular tasters. Thus, it is a double-edged sword for women.

Age also affects the density of taste buds. Children have the most taste buds and they dull as we age. For example, only about 7% of women 65 and older are super­tasters.

So, to answer the original question: Do women really have more taste buds than men? On average, yes they do. But it is very much an individual issue as well. There are a fair number of female nontasters, probably more than men. Age and ethnicity will also play a role.

Vodka & Diamonds

Wine is not the only alcoholic beverage I enjoy. Vodka is my favorite of the hard liquors and Chopin Vodka is one of my favorite premium vodkas. I enjoy it straight over ice, nicely chilled. I am also particular to Stoli Elit.

In the last few years, we have seen a proliferation of new premium vodkas on the market. And the price keeps creeping up with each new product. I just read an article in the International Herald Tribune about what might be the most expensive vodka ever. And it is produced by the same company, Polmos Siedlce, that makes Chopin.

Diaka, is a new rye-based vodka created using a patented diamond filtration process. "Diaka" is an acronym for "diamond" and "vodka." This new vodka is supposed to be available next year and it will retail for around $100 a bottle. The bottle will have Swarovzki crystals on it. There will also be a few crystals at the bottom of the inside of the bottle. The packaging is kind of gimmicky and adds to the price. I would rather a cheaper, plainer bottle.

The patented filtration process uses almost 100 diamonds, some as large as 1 carat. The diamonds are kept in special tubing where the vodka passes through. With centrifugal action, the diamonds move through the tubing and supposedly cut the vodka molecules. After that, the vodka passes through a comb filter covered by diamond flecks. The end result is that vodka is supposed to be very smooth and clear.

Would this really work? I don't know enough about the science involved to say one way or another. It does though seem very strange. Can you really cut vodka molecules?

I certainly would want to taste this vodka before I would spend $100 on a bottle. With Stoli Elit costing around $60-65, then the Diaka is not that far off. But will it pass a taste test? Does it filtration process actually make a smoother vodka? Time will tell.

Women & Wine: Once Again

Two months ago, I posted about "Who Buys & Drinks More Wine, Men or Women?" A recent report had indicated that women purchased and drank 60% of the wine in the U.S. Now comes a new report that the numbers may even be higher.

The Napa Valley Register reports that at a recent Women in Wine symposium at Copia it was stated that women buy 80% of the wine in the country. It was also stated that many men are introduced to wine by women.

The article does not state the source for these figures so I don't know how accurate it is. The number is certainly surprising. The article does not state anything about the type and price of the wines they purchase. I could believe the previous 60% but 80% seems quite high. The symposium was pushing that women are a strong power base in the wine world.

There is also mention that biologically, women have extra tastebuds. This could explain why women's wine reviews differ from that of men. I don't know if their reviews actually differ that much or not. But it might be interesting to compare reviews from fellow wine bloggers, men and women, on the same wines to see if their reviews differ, and if so, how.

There are certainly a good number of female wine bloggers now so it would be easy to do. The easiest comparison might actually be with Ryan and Gabriella of Catavino. They taste many of the same wines so it would easy to draw comparisons based on their tasting notes.

Please Don't Buy Wine!

Please Don't Buy Wine!

Yes, it sounds strange for me to be telling you not to buy wine. But I have a very good reason so please just read on.

The time of Giving Thanks has now passed and we now move onto a time for plain Giving. This December, many of us will give gifts and presents to our friends and family. It will be a joyous time of celebration. I love this season! The holidays elate me and it is so great to spend time with those I care about.

Yet it is not a joyous time for all. There are people less fortunate for whom the holidays are a time of sadness. There are children who won't receive any gifts. There are people who will spend the holidays alone. There are people who will have to spend the holidays in hospitals or other health care facilities. There are people who cannot even afford to eat.

Let us try to bring some joy to the less fortunate. Let us share our own joy with them. And that is the rationale behind why I have asked you not to buy wine.

This season, when you want to buy a bottle of wine, don't. Instead, give the money you would have spend on that wine to the charity of your choice. Give a gift to those who truly need it. This won't solve all the problems of the world, but it will make a difference. It will help someone. And it will make you happier knowing the difference you have made.

I would like to know everyone who participates in this, who is willing to help make a difference. All you have to do is add a comment here and tell me what charity you gave to. There is no need to tell the amount. Just tell me where you made a difference. Together we can make this a better world.

(Addendum: Let me clarify so there are no misunderstandings. I am not asking that you do not buy any wine at all this season. I am only asking that you buy one bottle less this season. And use the money that would have gone to buy that bottle to charity. I do encourage you to buy wine this season, to enjoy, to share with friends and families. Just buy one bottle less. thanks.)

Biodynamic Wine: Skepticism

One of the new catch words in the wine world is "Biodynamic." Producers may boast that their wines are Biodynamic, as if this makes them better or more special. But what does Biodynamic really mean, and are they really better than other wines?

Biodynamic agriculture originated in the ideas of Rudolf Steiner (1861-1925), a writer and philosopher. He spent time investigating the spiritual world and this led to his development of anthroposophy. This philosophy alleges that that spiritual world is accessible through inner development. Using this philosophy as a foundation, Steiner developed biodynamic agriculture. This was detailed in his "Agricultural Course" of 1924.

Biodynamic agriculture is considered one of the earliest descriptions of organic farming. It treats a farm as an individual organism, with a unified relationship between the soil, plants, animals, and farmer. Everything needs to be in a proper balance. There is a definite spiritual aspect involved.

Though Biodynamics includes organic farming, it goes beyond that. It includes more esoteric items such as using fermented herbal and mineral preparations as compost additives and field sprays. It also relies on using an astronomical calendar, especially the moon phases, to determine the proper times for planting and harvesting.

The term Biodynamic is now used as a trademark by the Demeter association, which certifies farms as Biodynamic. Demeter International is an organization of member countries, each with its own Demeter organization. Demeter International has a set of production standards that all their organizations must meet. The original Demeter organization was founded in 1928 and the the U.S. branch was formed in the 1980's.

But does Biodynamic agriculture make better wine? That is an area of controversy. Obviously those who practice this form of agriculture believe it works. And there have been a few studies that seem to give some support to them. But there are many opponents who question such studies and claim that Biodynamics does nothing more than what can be accomplished through organic farming.

Robert Parker uses Biodynamics in his vineyard in Oregon, which he owns along with his brother-in-law. Jancis Robinson, another leading wine writer, has also supported Biodynamics.

I am certainly not qualified to determine whether Biodynamics works or not, though I will state I am skeptical of such claims. The mystical aspect of their agricultural methods does stretch my idea of credibility.

I recently read a new article debunking the idea of Biodynamic wine in the latest issue of Skeptical Inquirer (Nov./Dec. 2007). It is an interesting article and if you are interested in the topic you might want to pick up a copy. The article is currently not available on their website though it might be in the future.

The article, "Biodynamics in the Wine Bottle" is written by Douglass Smith and Jesus Barquin. Smith has a PhD in philosophy and an Advanced Certificate with Distinction from the Wine & Spirits Education trust. Barquin is director of the Instituto Andaluz Interuniversitario de Criminologia at the University of Granada. In 2006, Barquin was also awarded the Spanish Nationa Prize in Gastronomy for his writings on food and wine.

First, the article examines Rudolf Steiner and his writings on Biodynamics. It states that "They are marked by clear falsehoods, disgressions, and odd fantasies." (p.46). And it points out some specifics. One example is that Steiner claims plants are never really diseased. It just appears that way because Moon influences in the soil are too strong.

Second, the article moves on to a discussion of the research findings concerning the alleged efficacy of biodynamics. Many of the studies have compared Biodynamics to nonrganic farming. This is not an effective study though as most agree organic practices are better than nonorganic farming. And Biodynamic farming is also organic so it would not be a surprise it does better than nonorganic farming. What would be a better comparison is Biodynamic vs regular organic farming. But few such studies have taken place.

There was one such major study, a 21 year old study, that seemed to support Biodynamic over regular organic but the study does have problems. Other such studies have found nothing different between Biodynamics and regular organic.

The article ends with asking whether there is any harm to farmers using Biodynamic practices. It concludes that it is a waste of time, effort and money. And that can lead to higher prices for wine, especially if the winemakers can convince the public that Biodynamic wines are better than regular ones.

The article does provide a number of references, both books and websites, for the information in the article.

I am sure this article is not going to settle the controversy over Biodynamics, but it does add some things to consider. If anything, it points out that further research studies may be needed to prove matters one way or another.

So what are your thoughts on Biodynamics? Do you feel there is a difference in taste in Biodynamic wines? If so, what is the difference? And how do you know it is from the Biodynamics and not just the fact they are also organic?

(Just a quick update: Smith and Barquin have another similar article in The World of Fine Wine that you might want to check out as well.)

CBS News Sunday Morning-Food/Wine Special

This Sunday, November 18, the CBS News Sunday Morning will hold their annual food broadcast, anchored by Charles Osgood. It will be live and you can catch it locally on Channel 4 from 9:00–10:30am.

I do enjoy watching interesting food/wine programs on TV. I have never seen this particular program before but received a press release about it, and I was intrigued by the content. I think the show will have some interesting segments so I will be checking it out.

Here is a list of some of those segments:

Someone's in the Kitchen: Cooking schools are all the rage these days. Rita Braver visits the French Culinary Institute in New York City, where enrollment has doubled in five years. Many students, lured by the glamour of becoming a celebrity chef, come face-to-face with the reality of working 12 hour days, five days a week for $30,000 a year.

Hot Spots: So, does George Clooney always get the best table? It turns out that -- from Michael’s and The Four Seasons in New York to Spago in Los Angeles -- there’s a pecking order, even among “A” list eateries. Correspondent Tracy Smith finds out how to get the best table.

Take Five: Correspondent Seth Doane visits the set of the upcoming movie “Ghost Town” starring, among others, actor Greg Kinnear, to find out just what goes into creating the perfect meal break on the set of a Hollywood film. It's a safe guess that it's not exactly like the way the rest of us grab lunch.

The Spice of Life: Martha Teichner takes a look at the spices we’ll be using this holiday season and uncovers a rich history. From ancient Roman recipes to Columbus’ journey to America in search of pepper, spices have fueled global exploration and world trade.

How Sweet It Is: Did you know that the artificial sweetener saccharine was discovered by accident? Americans have long been on a quest to satisfy their sweet tooth without expanding their waistlines, but are these sweet promises a myth? Correspondent Joie Chen goes in search of answers to that age-old question – can we have our cake and eat it, too?

Fast Food: For thousands of years, fasting has been a ritual part of many religions and cultures. But as Serena Altschul discovers, these days fasting is also big business. At the southern California spa she visits, you can pay up to four thousand dollars a week to eat nothing – a lot of dough when there’s no bread involved.

Cornucopia: It's the season when corn commonly adorns many festive decorations. But corn plays a much larger role in our everyday lives. From high fructose corn syrup to animal feed, corn is a dominating, and sometimes unhealthy, ingredient in many of the foods we eat. San Francisco-based Correspondent John Blackstone has the story.

A Frank Discussion: Bill Geist enrolls in Milwaukee’s Hot Dog University – yes, it is real. Along with his fellow students, Bill learns the tricks of the trade and gets hands-on, behind-the-cart field training. Does Bill have the dogged determination needed to make it in the world of fast food?

In addition, Sunday Morning's Russ Mitchell visits restaurants serving only desserts. Chef Bobby Flay pays tribute to the lowly oyster. And from Washington, Correspondent Bill Plante joins the furious debate over the perfect stopper for a bottle of wine. Could the lowly screw cap be better than a classic cork?

Throughout the broadcast, viewers will also be able to log on to CBSNEWS.com for a variety of holiday recipes.