Showing posts with label pisco. Show all posts
Showing posts with label pisco. Show all posts

Friday, February 26, 2016

Chef Michael Schlow, Tico & Nikkei Cuisine

For me, Japanese cuisine is like classical music: it’s harmonious, but you have to know how to listen to it. Peruvian cuisine, on the other hand, is like salsa music. Both of them are perfect, each one on its own. When salsa is added to Japanese dishes, Peruvians are given the opportunity to see a bit of themselves in a Japanese world, to identify with it.”
--Chef Mitsuhara Tsumara in Nikkei Es Peru (with Josefina Barron)

Last October, I reviewed a Nikkei cuisine cookbook, lamenting that there weren't any local restaurants which focused on this cuisine. Well, that has changed and it's time for you to explore this fascinating and delicious cuisine. At Tico, Chef Michael Schlow is now offering a special, late-night Nikkei menu, showcasing the fusion of Japanese and Peruvian cuisine. This new menu is served Thursday to Saturday, from 10pm-1am.

However, the first step is to explain the nature of Nikkei cuisine as many people may not be familiar with this cuisine, even though it is starting to become more popular around the world.

The term Nikkei derives from the Japanese word nikkejin and basically refers to those Japanese who migrated overseas and all of their descendants. As its most basic, Nikkei cuisine is "the cooking of the Japanese diaspora." It will thus vary dependent on where the Japanese settled as they adjusted and modified their cuisine, using different local ingredients and cooking styles. As many Japanese immigrated to South America, especially Brazil and Peru, Nikkei cuisine developed in these countries over more than one hundred years. During this time, the cuisine has evolved, merging the best of the two cultures, and it continues to grow and evolve.

Chef Mitsuhara Tsumara, who was born in Peru and is of Japanese ancestry, owns and operates Maido, one of the most famous Nikkei restaurants in the world. Tsumara and Josefina Barron co-wrote the book Nikkei Es Peru, which provides plenty of fascinating information on Nikkei cuisine, including numerous recipes. A few quotes from the book will illustrate some of the reasons why Japanese and Peruvian cuisine mesh so well together, especially because of their contrasts.

"Peruvian and Japanese cuisine work together in perfect harmony. Micha says it’s down to fundamental ingredient pairings, “chili with soy is the perfect combination - if you think about the DNA of a cuisine, it’s the foundation of a cuisine - like tomato and olive oil.” arguing that this, alongside the fact that Peruvians and Japanese both eat lots of rice, has helped the country’s flavours marry in the kitchen."

"Peruvian cuisine is bold, very bold. Perhaps the fact that they were different—opposites, in fact—created this dynamic, the pleasant surprise which every diner seeks when hunting for new flavors. For example, dashi (preserved bonito fish and kelp soup stock), a fundamental pillar of Japanese cooking, helped balance the intense Peruvian seasoning. The ají pepper, with its boldness, put a little spice into the calm of Japanese flavors. Japan brought the white rice, free of salt and garlic, as a true companion to Peru’s fieriness. A counterpart or counterpoint, much more necessary than accessory."

As such, you might expect many Japanese/Peruvian Nikkei dishes to be spicy, yet that spice will be more subtle and less bold than if you were enjoying Peruvian cuisine alone.

"One aspect that Micha makes sure to emphasize is that Japanese cuisine is diametrically opposed to ours in terms of portions. Peruvians have gotten used to mountains of cau cau, heaping plates of lomo saltado, plenteous bowls of crab chowder, preponderant lion’s helpings of tacu tacu. Nikkei cooks helped us to understand that less can be more: that we can appreciate the true flavor of a grunt as long as we don’t overwhelm it with sauces; that cilantro, cumin, chili pepper, and onions are better in moderation, thoughtfully used."

This fusion of cuisines almost seems designed for small plates, to enjoy smaller portions rather than an abundant platter of food.

"Japanese cuisine is sober, while its Peruvian counterpart goes heavy on the seasoning. Finding a middle ground signified the birth of Nikkei cuisine."

Does Chef Schlow's new Nikkei menu conform to these concepts?

Chef Michael Schlow is well known in the Boston region and one of his most recent endeavors is Doretta Taverna & Raw Bar, a Greek restaurant. And now he is expanding his culinary repertoire by offering a Nikkei menu at Tico. What inspired him to venture into this new area? Chef Schlow stated that he has always been a fan of Nikkei cuisine, as well as Chifa, Chinese-Peruvian cuisine. The combination of Peruvian and Japanese techniques and ingredients speak to him, opening up much room for creativity. He also indicated that he has been studying this cuisine for quite some time, having visited various Nikkei restaurants around the world, including in Lima, Peru. One of his favorite spots is Chotte Matte in London, noting he could eat there every night. Besides enjoying the food at these restaurants, he also asked plenty of questions, to further his education about this cuisine. In addition, he has read a number of Nikkei cookbooks for more knowledge and inspiration.

It seems to me that this has been a long-standing passion within Chef Schlow and he finally has the opportunity to showcase Nikkei cuisine. I'm hoping that this late-night menu leads to something more, maybe even a Boston-area restaurant dedicated to Nikkei cuisine. This is a cuisine that should appeal to many people and could do well in the Boston area.

Currently, the Late Night menu has 11 Nikkei cuisine options along with 7 cocktails which have been specially create for this menu. As an aside, the Late Night menu includes a single non-Nikkei item, the famous Schlow Burger from Radius. Most of the Nikkei offerings are small plates, which can easily be shared, and only two dishes are large-sized, including the Homemade Noodles and Boneless Fried Chicken. Almost all of the dishes range from $7-$12, except for the Boneless Fried Chicken at $16, and the Cocktails range from $12-$16.

I was invited as a media guest to check out the new Nikkei menu and I sampled all of the various dishes. Overall, I was impressed with the dishes, finding intriguing combinations of flavors and textures. Chef Schlow certainly understands the role of texture and how it can elevate a dish. As both Japan and Peru treasure seafood, it was great to see that Schlow's seafood dishes were stand-outs. The Nikkei dishes will seem familiar in some respects, except that you'll realize than are some exotic touches as well.

I also concluded that Schlow's Nikkei dishes generally conformed to the quotes I provided earlier from Nikkei Es Peru. Many of his dishes were spicy but the heat was more subtle, often slowly building up over time as you enjoyed more and more of the dish. Portion size was mostly limited to small plates, ample enough to share but without making you overly full too quickly. The flavor combinations worked well, an excellent merging of Japanese and Peruvian ingredients.

It is also important to note that the Nikkei menu is only three weeks old so some allowance must be given for its newness and it could see some minor changes in the near future. I highly recommend that my readers check out this new Late Night Nikkei menu and experience the delights of Japanese/Peruvian cuisine. I'll be returning as well, to enjoy more of these dishes. Let me now describe all the dishes and cocktails I tasted.

The Deviled Eggs ($7) are made with Uni, Chiles, and Tempura Bits presenting a nice blend of textures, from the silky filling and creamy Uni to the crunchy tempura. The Uni also added an interesting briny edge to the eggs. One of the better Deviled Eggs I've tasted in recent times.

The Hamachi Tartare ($11) with Spicy Aji-Miso and Two Texture Rice was another intriguing blend of textures, from the silky fish to the crunchy rice, with creaminess from the aji-miso. There was also a hint of spiciness that enhanced the dish.

The Quick Tuna Ceviche ($11) with Soy, Chiles, and Masago was a winner! Nice, silky cubes of meaty tuna with bursts of citrus flavor, spicy heat and a delicate crunch. A well balanced dish, sure to satisfy.

Other winner dish was the Local Scallops ($12) with Lemongrass, Chiles, and Crispy Garlic. The sweet scallops were enhanced with citrus, spice and crunchy elements. It was a lighter sauce than on the tuna, which makes sense considering the different types of seafood,  and the citrus flavors were brighter.

The Shrimp and Octopus "Sunonmo" ($10) with Tigre de Leche (the famous Peruvian ceviche sauce) continued the string of excellent seafood dishes. The fresh citrus flavors enhanced the shrimp as well as the thin, tender slices of octopus. One of the bonuses of this dish were the thin cucumber slices, almost like pickled cucumbers.

The Mussels ($11) with Roccoto, Coconut Milk, Cilantro, Red Onion, and Lime added a more tropical element to the dish, with plump mussels (out of the shell), rich coconut, mild spicy heat and some crunchy notes. As I love coconut, this was an especially compelling dish for me. And it uses mussels, which I've previously advocated as a nutritious and sustainable seafood.

Besides seafood, there were other Nikkei dishes to enjoy, including the Short Rib Gyoza ($7) with Panca, Sesame, and Toasted Onion. The gyoza, which seemed to have been fried, had a crisp wrapping, and was filled with tender and flavorful meat, with mild peppery spice and the crunch and taste of sesame seeds.

The Sanguche ($9) of Pork Belly, Spicy Fennel, and Aji Amarillo was on a brioche bun and was a delightful sandwich, with tender and moist pork belly with crispness from the fennel and some spice from the aji amarillo. With each bite, you ached for another and soon enough, the sandwich is gone. Absolutely delicious.

The Homemade Noodles ($11) with Pork, Soft Egg, Green Onion, Chile Paste, and Cashews is essentially a huge bowl of ramen. The tender pork belly, as it was in the Sanguche, was excellent and it was great to have a soft boiled egg so you could break the savory yolk into the broth. The noodles were thin with a good bite to them. My only issue is that the flavor of the broth seemed a bit thin and not as full of savoriness as other local ramen dishes.

The only miss for me was the Crispy Tempura Bok Choy ($9) with "Miracle Sauce." First, I'm not a fan of bok choy so the idea of the dish didn't appeal to me. I would have preferred something else like maybe a Tempura Peruvian Purple Potato or Yucca. In addition, I'm very picky as to tempura and felt that the tempura batter was too heavy in this dish. It was not that light and crisp tempura I love at the better Japanese spots.

The final dish was the Platter of Boneless Fried Chicken ($16) with Scallions, Crushed Peanuts, and "Numbing Sauce." The photo doesn't do justice to this dish, the beautiful color of the crunchy exterior coating of the chicken. Inside, the chicken was moist, cooked perfectly, and the flavor of the coating was savory, with a slight nuttiness and a spicy heat that slowly built in your mouth, eventually leading to a numbing of the interior of your mouth. They recommended eating this dish last, as the spicy heat of the dish would numb your palate and you would never appreciate the more subtle flavors of some of the other dishes. And they were right. A winner of a dish but make sure you have it last.

The subtle flavors of many of the dishes seemed to be replicated in several of the new cocktails for the Nikkei menu. The Chicha Sour ($12), a take on the classic Pisco Sour, is made with Barsol Pisco, Chicha (a corn based beverage), and fresh lime and was a mild drink of subtle flavors, a little sour and sweet (likely from the corn) with a soft flavor of Pisco. It goes down easily and you could drink several of these in the course of an evening.

The Papa Made Bail ($12) is also made with Barsol Pisco, as well as Pineapple, Fresh Lemon, and Habanero. Once again, the flavors were more subtle, with citrus and tropical flavors and a mild heat that built up over time. Another easy drinking cocktail, which you could enjoy several over dinner. The bartender isn't trying to club you with big flavors, but is willing to create more subtle drinks, to make you concentrate more on the flavors.

The O' Miso Rummy ($15) is made with Ron Zacapa Rum, Miso, Agave, Fresh lemon and lime,  and Nutmeg. A pleasant taste with lots of citrus notes and a certain richness and mild sweetness. The
P90X ($14) is kind of a Manhattan variation, made with Bulleit Rye Whiskey, Lustau PX Sherry, and Angostura & Orange Bitters. The spicy rye stood out, with a mild sweetness, some mild berry notes and orange accents. It lacks some of the herbal notes you get from Vermouth. Maybe the sweetest of the cocktails was the Harmonious Dragon ($16), made with Pierre Ferrand Cognac, Bigalet China China, Oolong Tea, and Fresh lemon though it wasn't overly sweet. It was nicely balanced with herbal notes and a rich, mouthfeel.

On the flip side, the tartest drink was the You, Me & Boshi ($12), made with Sake, plum, and fresh lemon as well as containing a few pickled plums. Dry and very sour, it had a pleasant taste but prepare to pucker those lips. The biggest and boldest cocktail was the Land of the Rising Sol ($14) made with Nikka Coffey Grain Whisky, Manzanilla Sherry, Pistachio, and Black Walnut Bitters. Bold flavors, with a little sweetness, a nice briny element and nutty notes. Quite a delicious and intriguing cocktail, and highly recommended.

Chef Schlow's new late night Nikkei menu is well worthy of your attention. The seafood dishes will impress, but you'll find delicious non-seafood dishes to enjoy too, such as the Pork Belly Sanguche and Fried Chicken. Many of the dishes offer more subtle and complex flavors, so it pays to devote attention to each dish you are sampling. Their new cocktail menu often relies on such subtleties as well. Chef Schlow's passion for Japanese-Peruvian cuisine seems evident and I hope he continues to expand this menu over time. It earns a strong recommendation from me.

Tuesday, September 29, 2015

Pisco Mistral & Piscoritas

You should explore the native spirits of other countries, even though it might be a bit more difficult to find them locally. I recently mentioned Sotol, an intriguing Mexican spirit,  and now I'm going much further south, to Chile, to highlight the compelling Pisco.

Four years ago, while touring through Chile, our van stopped at an isolated gas station in the countryside for a fill-up. There was a small grocery store attached to the station so I got out of the van to check it out, maybe to pick up a snack. However, I was amazed to find that the back of the store was taken up with several shelves of different bottles of Pisco, a well-known spirit in Chile and Peru. I bought a bottle, the Pisco Mistral pictured above, and when I brought it back to the van I told everyone else what I had found. Most of them then left the van to get some Pisco too. That gas station did a great business in Pisco that afternoon.

For some background and basic information on Pisco, including its history, check out my previous post, La Mar, Pisco Sours & A Cautionary Tale, and my prior review of the Macchu Pisco La Diablada, a Peruvian Pisco. Pisco still remains relatively uncommon in the U.S. but it is a growing category and you should keep an eye out for it at your local bars and liquor stores.

Pisco Mistral is owned by the Compañía de Cervecerías Unidas (CCU), the largest brewer in Chile and a producer of both alcoholic and non-alcoholic beverages. The Pisco distillery is located in the town of Pisco Elqui, in the Elqui Valley, where Pisco production was first conducted in Chile. The town was originally known as :La Greda but was changed in 1936 to help support Chile's legal claim to produce Pisco. The brand name, Mistral, is derived from the name of Gabriela Mistral, who was a native of Elqui Valley and was the first Latin-American woman to win the Nobel Prize for Literature.

The distillery produces several different Piscos and I opened the Pisco Mistral 35, which is produced primarily from Pedro Ximénez and Muscat of Alexandria.grapes and aged in American oak. It has a light golden-brown color and appealing spicy aromatics. On the palate, it is soft and smooth, with pleasing flavors of vanilla, spice and mild herbal notes. It has a lengthy and satisfying finish, without any bite. You'll realize that it is a versatile spirit, one which would work well in a wide variety of cocktails. The Pisco Sour might be the most famous and common Pisco cocktail, but you can do so much more with this delightful spirit.

I've been having fun with my new blender so decided to put the Pisco through the paces. I decided to create a Frozen Piscorita, a Margarita that substitutes Pisco for the Tequila. I figured the flavors were similar to what you would find in a Pisco Sour so it should work well. For the Margarita mix, I used the Squeeze from the Margaritas restaurant, which was especially appropriate as it contains egg white, which is also an important ingredient in a Pisco Sour. I used the same amount of Pisco as I would have used Tequila.

The Frozen Piscorita was a big hit! It lacked the bite of tequila and there was the addition of some spicy notes as the Pisco was barrel aged. The flavors of the ingredients blended very well and the cocktail went down very easily. It would appeal to many people, including those who dislike tequila. It would be a nice introduction to Pisco and should stir the imagination as to how Pisco could be used in many other cocktails. I also made a non-frozen version and, as expected, it too worked well. Seek out some Pisco and learn more about this fascinating South American spirit.

Do you have a favorite Pisco cocktail?

Friday, October 12, 2012

Boston Cocktail Summit: Spirit Recommendations

You can't have a conference dedicated to spirits and cocktails unless you provide plenty to taste and drink. At the Boston Cocktail Summit, they certainly provided ample opportunity for tasting and drinking, from some of the seminars to the evening parties. In addition, there was a Craft & Fine Spirits Showcase, separated into a Grand Tasting Room and a Craft Distiller's Hall, where a myriad of spirits and cocktails were presented for sampling.

I spent several hours on Saturday sampling in these two rooms, generally passing on those spirits I already knew, seeking out the different, interesting, unique and unusual. Tasting so many spirits is not an easy task, as even if you spit, you still absorb some of the alcohol. It is more difficult than wine tasting due to the much higher alcohol content of the spirits. Fortunately, both rooms had some snacks to help cleanse your palate and absorb some of the alcohol. Plus, taking a lunch break, a burger and tater tots, helped keep me going for  more tasting in the afternoon.

This is a great time in the spirits world, and there has never been a greater number and diversity of artisan and high-end spirits available. No matter what your preference, you can find plenty to please your palate. And if you are adventurous, you will find much to satisfy you, much to delight and tantalize you. I am going to highlight some of the alcohols which most impressed and excited me, those which intrigued me because of their uniqueness and fine taste. I may follow up on some of these spirits in the future, to gain more information about their creation, and if so, I will report back.


Let me start with some local spirits. I previously toured Turkey Shore Distilleries, sampling three of their rums. At the Summit, they presented their newest offering, which had only been bottled less than a week before. The Old Ipswich Golden Marsh Spiced Rum, a limited edition, is basically a blend of 80% of their White Cap rum and 20% of their Tavern Style Amber with the addition of ten different spices. Master Distiller Evan Parker says, "With the cooler weather, we created a flavor profile that is perfect for those crisp days out and about or for those cold nights by the fire."

The rum presents a bright, golden yellow color and a spicy aroma, which will bring to mind autumn and cool weather. It has a smooth taste, with delicious fall spice notes and hints of orange peel. This is definitely a rum to enjoy now, either on its own or in a cocktail. Evan states, "For a simple, tasty cocktail, you can pair Golden Marsh Spiced Rum with ginger beer or hot cider." I could easily see this rum added to some hot cider.

They also had an intriguing cocktail to taste, which was made from the Golden Marsh Spiced rum, caramel, butterscotch liqueur, and spiced apple cider, topped with a Pumpkin Munchkin. The rum complemented this drink very much and I think apple cider is a great pairing. The guys from Turkey Shore, Mat Perry and Evan Parker have created another winner.

Grand Ten Distilling is another local distillery, located in South Boston, and Luke O'Neil has just written an interesting article in The Phoenix about this distillery. For background on the distillery, you should check out his article though it only discusses their Wire Works Gin (which I did not taste). I tasted three of their other products and found all three to be interesting.

The Amandine Barrel Aged Almond Liqueur spends about 6 months in 30 gallon American oak barrels. They use 30 gallon barrels as it is easier for two people to move them around rather than the usual 53 gallon barrels. The barrels are toasted, not charred, as they do not want the barrels to filter out any of the taste. All the color of liqueur is due to the barrels. The liqueur had a pleasant almond taste, not too sweet, and would make a fine addition to a cocktail. The Angelica Botanical Liqueur is made with angelica root, cinnamon, orange peel and cloves. It too is not sweet, but is aromatic and floral with a fresh, clean taste and slight hints of spice. Another liqueur that would add interesting flavors and aromas to a cocktail. The Fire Puncher Fire Vodka has a hickory smoked and pepper flavor, and I found the peppery notes to be far more prominent than the mild smokiness. It is farily easy drinking and would be great in a Bloody Mary.

Another local company, in Somerville, is Infusion Diabolique which is a collaboration between Executive Chef Robert Fathman and Brandon Bach, both who worked at Azure. They produce infused alcohols and at the Summit showcased two of them, their bourbon and tequila, though it appears they also make an infused rum. They are all infused with natural fruits, herbs and spices.

The Infusion Diabolioque Kentucky uses a four year old bourbon and infuses it with dried organic Black Mission figs, Madagascar & Tahitian vanilla, cinnamon, star anise, black currants, cloves, and allspice. It smells like typical bourbon with subtle spicy notes and on the palate, the bourbon flavor is enhanced by subtle fruit flavors with a pleasant melange of spices. It was smooth and easy drinking, and would satisfy you on its own, though it would do well in a cocktail too. The Infusion Diabolioque Mixto is a silver tequila infused with sweet pineapple, Persian limes, cardamon, and mint. Up front, the usual tequila flavors are most prominent, but it then transforms into a more complex blend with some tropical fruit accents and subtle mint. The finish is smooth and long, with hints of lime. Again, it would work well on its own or in a cocktail.

Dunc's Mill is the oldest continuously operating distillery in Vermont. The founder, Duncan Holaday, previously created Vermont Spirits but now has moved on to creating local rum. He currently produces two rums, both which are made from Fair Trade, organic sugar cane and Vermont flavors. The Elderflower Flavored Rum is created with Vermont elderflower blossoms and Austrian elder essence, which is infused into a light rum. I was impressed with this rum, which possessed a delightful floral aroma, and on the palate was smooth, clean and dry with a prominent, but not overwhelming, taste of elderflower. It was a well balanced spirit which reminded me somewhat of a dry version of St. Germain Elderflower Liqueur. I am not a huge fan of maple flavor but their Maple Flavored Rum, made from Vermont maple syrup, was pleasant. It was dry and possessed a milder maple profile, once again also smooth and clean. Another well balanced spirit, you should check out both these rums.

In 2006, the Consejo Regulador Del Tequila (CRT), the ruling tequila body in Mexico, added a couple new tequila categories: Extra Anejo and Infused Blanco TequilaTanteo has taken advantage ot the later of the two categories and currently produces three Infused 100% De Agave Tequilas ($36-$40). Their inspiration was the fruit cups, topped with chiles, they found in Mexico. Their blanco tequilas, Jalapeno, Cocoa and Tropical, are infused with natural ingredients, such as organic jalapenos.

Their Jalapeno was my favorite of the three, and it is produced by infusing organic jalapenos, hand-sliced, which are mixed in a 10,000 gallon tank with the tequila. On the nose, there is some grassy notes as well as the typical agave, and on the palate, the tequila flavor was very prominent up front. On the finish, rather than the usual tequila bite, you ended up with a spicy and delicious jalapeno burn. It was not overly spicy, but very noticeable and I loved that heat. I could easily enjoy this on its own though it would make great cocktails as well.

The Cocoa is made with roasted, malted and raw cocoa, like a traditional mole, and has a little jalapeno added as well. It presented a strong cocoa flavor atop the tequila notes, a strange combo that actually worked, and certainly was intriguing, though not my personal preference for a spirit. Yet I could see it working well in the right cocktail. The only issue is that I didn't get much of a jalapeno kick to this tequila. The Tropical is infused with pineapple, mango, and guanabana, also known as soursop, and there was a little jalapeno added too. The tropical fruits added subtle flavors, enhancing the tequila, though again the jalapeno wasn't really assertive. I could see this tequila working well in a tropical cocktail.

The Macchu Pisco La Diablada is intended to be a high-end Peruvian Pisco and is currently not available in the U.S. but that will hopefully change soon. They only make 1000 bottles so even when it becomes available, it will be in very limited supply. La Diablada is a blend of 3 Pisco grapes: Quebranta, Moscatel and Italia. It is rested, not aged, for about 18 months and sees no oak. It is very aromatic with a smooth taste of herbs and fruit, with some underlying spiciness. A complex taste with a lengthy and pleasing finish. Though many know of the Pisco Sour, this is a Pisco that you might want to enjoy on its own, rather than as the base for a cocktail.

I love a good bourbon and the Rock Hill Farms Bourbon, produced at Buffalo Trace, really excited my palate. It is a single barrel, Kentucky Straight bourbon that is 100 proof, though you probably won't notice the alcohol is that high. It is an excellent sipping bourbon, smooth, complex and absolutely delicious with nice vanilla notes and intriguing spicy elements on the finish. This is definitely a bourbon I will add to my home bar.

Brendan Edwards of Third Wave Brands, a supplier of spirits and wines, presented several different brands (including Montanya Distillers, Delirio de Oaxaca, and Cariel Vodka) and I found them compelling.

Montanya Distillers, owned by Karen & Brice Hoskin, was founded in 2008 and is now located in Crested Butte, Colorado. which is is the West Elk Mountain range of southwest Colorado. They currently produce two rums, the Platino Light Rum and Oro Dark Rum. The rums are all natural, each made with only four ingredients, including water, sugar cane, yeast and honey. The water comes from Colorado mountain springs while the sugar cane is from Maui, Hawaii. At the time of bottling, a tiny bit of Colorado mountain honey is added to the rum.

The Oro is aged in a fresh, American oak whiskey barrel that previously held Stranahan's Colorado Whiskey. The Oro was a fine sipping rum, with a pleasant blend of flavors, including vanilla, honey, caramel, and mocha hints. I really enjoyed it and would drink it both straight or in a cocktail. The Platino is aged in a barrel that once aged Oro, so the barrel has far less effect on the rum. The Platino is also filtered and I found it to be very aromatic, a lighter rum with vanilla and herbal notes. For me, it would be best used in a cocktail.

Delirio de Oaxaca is a traditional palenque in Matatlan, Oaxaca, producing Mezcal by Master Distiller Fernando Santibanez. The Mezcal Joven is double distilled in copper alembics from 100% Agave Espadin and only 10,000 bottles were produced. It had an intriguing smoky nose with a prominent taste of agave fruit and a mild smokiness. Quite tasty and I could drink it on its own or in a cocktail. The Mezcal Reposado has been aged for about 4 months in lightly toasted American oak and only 5000 bottles were produced. It had a lighter nose of smoke, and on the palate it was softer and more subtle, with the same delicious fruit flavors and hints of smoke. Again, another winner.

Cariel Vodka was created by Master Blender Peter Carlson in Sweden, who desired to create a vodka with natural flavor and the product just came on the U.S. market in July. It is produced from Swedish winter wheat and barley, as well as glacial water from Lake Vattern. I found the vodka to have an almost subtle sweetness to the aroma, with an intriguing and smooth taste, elements of herbs, grain, and subtle peach flavors. It is definitely not a tasteless vodka but rather presents an enticing melange of subtle tastes. I was impressed. They also produce a Vanilla Vodka, made with the addition of vanilla from Southern India and Madagascar. It had a big, bold vanilla aroma and flavor, yet it remains only mildly sweet, not cloying like many other flavored vodkas. I can see this working well in the right cocktail.

Koval Distillery, founded in 2008, was the first craft distillery in Chicago since Prohibition. The founders, Robert and Sonat Birnecker, gave up their academic careers to create the distillery. Using custom-made Kothe potsills, they produce organic and kosher liqueurs and whiskey. The whiskey is made in small batches from 100% Midwest organic grain from Midwest and aged in 30 gallon organic oak from a Minnesota cooperage.

My favorite of the three I tasted was the Lion's Pride Dark Rye, made from 100% Rye. It presented nice vanilla and bold spice flavors with hints of citrus. A nice sipping whiskey. The Lion's Pride Dark Millet had a more earthy flavor with vanilla accents. The Lion's Pride 47th Ward is made from a mash bill of rye, wheat, oat and malted barley, and is aged in heavily charred oak. Each grain is distilled separately. This is a complex and spicy whiskey, but at 94 proof, you probably need to add a little water to mute some of the alcoholic heat.


In general, I am not much of a Gin guy because I find too many gins with a strong juniper taste. But, I have found myself enjoying much more the ancestor to gin, Genever, which is made with numerous botanicals and where any juniper flavor is far more subtle. Veronique Beittel is the owner of Flemish Lion, an importing company, based in Vermont, of Belgium Genever. She even has an informative website of information about Genever. At the Summit, she was showcasing two Genevers from Diep9.

The Diep Young Genever is distilled using 19th century techniques, hand crafted in a traditional copper pot at De Moor, Belgium's smallest family owned distillery. It is produced with a combination of rye, wheat, malted barley, and nine botanicals. Those botanicals include juniper berries, sweet orange peel, blessed thistle, carob, nutmeg, guinea pepper, angelica root, cinnamon and coriander. I liked the herbal blend on this spirit, which was relatively smooth and easy drinking. I think the key was the balance of the botanicals, that none of them seemed to overpower the others. The Diep9 Old Genever is distilled using 16th century techniques and is barrel aged for two years in French oak. It is also packaged in an old style clay bottle. Though it too has a balanced, herbal taste there is also a deeper, earthier element, which really intrigued me. Try these Genevers and let them open your eyes to the possibilities.

Palm Bay International is a distributor of wines and spirits and they showcased several of their products at the Summit, from mezcal to whiskey.

Los Amantes, which translates as "the lovers" and is inspired by an ancient Aztec legend, produces Mezcal  made of 100% agave from Oaxaca. Only a small supply of this traditionally produced spirit is available in the U.S. The Joven has about 2 months of barrel aging and the nose had a mild smokiness with a bit of brininess as well. On the palate, it was smokier, with strong fruit flavors and a nice smoothness to the finish. Delicious and easy drinking. The Reposado has been aged for about 6 months in American oak and its taste was superb, a complex melange of flavors, smokiness and subtle accents of fruit. An excellent sipping spirit, it is highly recommended.

The Bastille 1789 is a French blended whisky hand-crafted in the Cognac region and produced from barley and wheat grown in northeast France. Their water derives from the Gensac Spring and it is naturally filtered through limestone. It has been finished in French Limousin oak casks. It was an intriguing whiskey, with a complex blend of flavors, with orange notes, dried fruits, honey and Christmas spices. There was a mild earthy backbone, and it was smooth and easy drinking with a satisfying finish.

The Irishman, founded in 1999 by Bernard and Rosemary Walsh, produce a line of Irish whiskey based products. The Original Clan is a pot still blend of 70% single malt and 30% pure pot still. It was triple distilled and matured in bourbon casks. This was produced in a pre-Prohibition style and is said be be a "gateway" Irish whiskey. This is a delightful sipping whiskey, with delicious flavors of caramel, honey, vanilla and butterscotch as well as slight undertones of pepper and spice. It goes down so easy and lingers in your mouth for a long time. I can understand why so many people will enjoy this whiskey.

The Single Malt is produced from 100% malted barley, was triple distilled and then matured in first-fill bourbon and sherry oak casks. Only 1000 cases of this whiskey were made. This is a more serious whiskey, being complex, subtle and intriguing. There is less sweetness than the Original Clan and a bit more spice, and the finish is even longer and more pleasing. This is definitely a whiskey to slowly sip and savor, and will appeal to whiskey aficionados.

The Superior Irish Cream is a blend of real Irish cream and 100% Irish whiskey, with added hints of vanilla and toffee. All of the ingredients are natural and it does not contain any thickening agents or artificial ingredients. It is based on an old family recipe and was a satisfying pleasure. There is a thick, creaminess to the drink and the whiskey flavors are not hidden in the least. It does not taste artificial in any way, and with winter approaching, you might want to stock up on a couple bottles for those chilly evenings. Add a bit to your coffee or tea, or just drink it on its own.