SENA17: Sea Urchin Master Class

"I've never been hurt by a sea creature, except for jellyfish and sea urchins."
--Peter Benchley, Author of Jaws and The Deep

Their gonads are a culinary delicacy, highly valued by many Japanese diners. You can find them available at a number of Japanese restaurants in the U.S. as well as some other high-end restaurants. I'm a fan and know plenty of others who enjoy them too. I'm referring to Sea Urchin, a spiny sea creature, and its "roe" which are actually gonads. You may know their gonads by their Japanese name, Uni. "Uni" doesn't mean "sea urchin" but specifically refers to their "gonads."

At the Seafood Expo North America (SENA), they offered a Master Class in Sea Urchin, presented by Chef Ned Bell of Ocean Wise, a sustainable seafood program, and Claire Li Loong of the Vancouver Aquarium Marine Science Centre. The presentation was sponsored by the Pacific Urchin Harvesters Association, an industry association established to examine fishery issues in the Red Sea Urchin in British Columbia.

Chef Ned Bell is the Ocean Wise Executive Chef at the Vancouver Aquarium, as well as a sustainable seafood ambassador. Bell founded Chefs for Oceans in 2014 to raise awareness about sustainable seafood. He has worked in a number of restaurants, including, most recently, the Four Seasons Hotel Vancouver and YEW seafood + bar. The Four Seasons was the first hotel in British Columbia to be 100% certified Ocean Wise. Bell’s cooking philosophy is "globally inspired and locally created" and he has a cookbook due out in the fall. He was a personable and passionate speaker, and I was fortunate to see him at another seminar at the Expo as well.

He began with some general remarks on sustainable seafood, noting we all should "choose responsible seafood." Like a growing number of chefs, Chef Bell seems to prefer to use the term "responsible" rather than "sustainable." A growing number of people feel that the term "sustainable" has been diluted over time and have chosen a different term which they feel is more appropriate. Chef Bell stated that we need to build relationships with responsible fishermen, supporting those who do the right thing. I fully agree and it is those relationships which help to build trust, and when assessing sustainability, trust is very important.

Polling the audience, only about 40% of them had tasted sea urchin before. It was cool to see a significant number of adventurous attendees who were curious about sea urchin and willing to sample it. As I've often said before, including in yesterday's post, we need to eat more species than the most common ones. Chef Bell noted that in North America, sea urchin is a relatively new delicacy, and most sea urchin is exported to Japan. The domestic market in Canada for sea urchin is still small, but growing. The discussion centered on the Red Sea Urchin from British Colombia.

The Red Sea Urchin ranges from Alaska down to Baja, California, though about 80% of these sea urchin are collected on the North Coast. Last year, 4000 metric tonnes were caught in British Colombia, by divers in remote areas. They dive to depths from 12-60 feet, and the sea urchins they harvest are often available within 24 hours. The Red Sea Urchin is the largest in the world, with a maximum diameter of about 18 centimeters and spines up to 7 centimeters long. It takes them about five years to reach maturity and they have millions of eggs per spawning event. The harvest season is from October to May.

Sea Urchin has a shelf life of 7-10 days. The firmer and more well defined sea urchin is better used in sushi while the softer variety is better used in soups and sauces. Chef Bell recommended that we should eat less common seafood, such as sea urchin, which is certainly an excellent idea to take pressure off some of the more popular types of fish. As Red Sea Urchin is very sustainable, it makes for a good option.

Claire then took over the discussion to talk about Ocean Wise, which recommends sustainable seafood by scientific assessment. This is akin to the Seafood Watch of the Monterey Bay Aquarium. These assessments are based on four main components: a) Heathy stock; b) Limited bycatch; c) Well managed; and d) Limited habitat damage. A numerical score is generated, ranging up to a maximum of 5, and a fishery needs at least a 2.8 to be considered sustainable.

The Red Sea Urchin has been assessed as sustainable by Ocean Wise. It has a healthy and abundant stock. Its main predator is the sea otter but there are not as many otters around so its population has grown. Harvesting sea urchin by individual divers means that there is almost no bycatch. That also means that is very limited habitat damage from those divers. The fishery is also well managed, with a quota system, minimum size limits, good enforcements, and even observers at the docks to help monitoring.

Locally, I know that Red's Best at the Boston Public Market sometimes sells Sea Urchins. You could buy some, take them home and prepare them yourself. Check out some Sea Urchin Recipes from the Pacific Urchin Harvesters Association. Or, the next time you dine out and see Sea Urchin on the menu, order it and enjoy its compelling flavors.

Rant: Be More Seafood Adventurous

"As Mark Kurlansky noted in his oyster-centric history of New York, The Big Oyster, up until the 1920s, the average New Yorker ate annually as many as six hundred local oysters as part of a locally sourced seafood diet of more than thirty-six pounds of fish and shellfish a year—more than double the current per capita level of American seafood consumption. New York oysters were so common as to be considered a poor man’s food, priced at less than a penny apiece."
--American Catch: The Fight for Our Local Seafood by Paul Greenberg

As I mentioned in Friday's post, Barton Seaver stated we need to eat different types of seafood species, and not just the top 10 most popular species. I've addressed this issue before in a few different posts but feel the need to discuss it again, providing some updated and additional information.

Let me preface by stating Americans need to eat more seafood in general, and that the scientific community advises you should eat seafood twice a week, an annual consumption of 26 pounds of seafood. Unfortunately, Americans only consume about 15.5 pounds annually, more than ten pounds less than advised. Since 2001, the highest annual seafood consumption was in 2005 with 16.6 pounds and the lowest amount was in 2012 with 14.4 pounds. Now consider the quote above, how New Yorkers once ate over 36 pounds of seafood annually. Why did we stop eating so much seafood?

(I also long for the days when oysters were only a penny a piece, rather then the $2-$4 a piece you find now. The same book also noted that "In the mid-1800s the average New Yorker spent more on oysters than on butcher meat.")

According to Seafood Health Facts, there are between 300 and 500 different species of fish and shellfish sold annually. What an incredible diversity is thus available, and it makes it even more unfortunate when American seafood consumption habits are so limited. In 2014, about 55% of the seafood consumed in the U.S. was limited to three types: shrimp, canned tuna and salmon. And 90% of what is consumed is limited to 10 different types. Let me break down those numbers in more detail.

In 2015, the National Fisheries Institute stated that the top ten seafood species consumed in the U.S. include: Shrimp (4 lbs), Salmon (2.9 lbs), Tuna (2.2 lbs), Tilapia (1.4 lbs), Alaska Pollock (1.0 lbs), Pangasius (.7 lbs), Cod (.6 lbs), Crab (.6 lbs), Catfish (.5 lbs), and Clams (.3 lbs). These Top Ten species constitute about 14.2 pounds of American's annual consumption, with another 1.3 pounds of miscellaneous species. Salmon, Pangasius, and Crab saw an increase in consumption, with Crab moving from 9th place to 8th place

Obviously, these statistics are an average for the entire country and are likely different in certain regions of the country, such as the Northeast. With our proximity to the coast and access to the vast bounty of the sea, our particular seafood consumption habits are probably different from the norm. For example, Lobster might be on our Top Ten species list and Clams, cause of all the fried clams and chowders, could also be in a higher place than 10th. However, it is still clear that even those in the Northeast don't eat enough different species of seafood. We far too often remain with the common and familiar rather than venturing out to something different. Try some mussels, dogfish, sardines, mackerel, fluke, and much more.

By limiting ourselves to primarily ten species, we put heavy pressures on those seafood populations, causing sustainability issues. It is why many of those species have quotas, because their populations would be threatened by unregulated fishing. We need to ease those pressures by lowering consumption of those species, and consuming other species that don't have sustainability issues. We have to give the populations of those ten common species more time to rebound and recover.

By limiting ourselves to primarily ten species, we are also hurting the economic situation of our fishermen, driving some of them out of business. With strict quotas on the most common seafood species, it gets harder and harder to make a living by catching those fish. Fishermen harvest many other different seafood species but there is little market for many of those species so they can't earn much money from those catches. If Americans started consuming more of those less common species, the market for them would grow, helping fishermen make more money. We should cherish our local fishermen and help protect them, especially when it is so easy to do so by simply consuming different types of seafood. Don't you want to help your local community?

Get over your psychological barriers! Don't be afraid of something unfamiliar and take a chance on a different fish. It is time now to stop eating the same old fish all the time and experiment with less common seafood, to broaden your palate to the pleasure of whelks and sardines, cobia and mackerel. You will enjoy the tastes if you only give them a chance, especially if you dine at a good restaurant which knows how to properly prepare seafood. For the sake of sustainability, to save our oceans and all of the endangered species, to save our fishermen, this is an excellent choice and one you should seriously consider.

Be more seafood adventurous!

SENA17: "We Don't Know How To Talk About Seafood"

"We don't know how to talk about seafood."

It might seem strange to hear that sentiment spoken at the Seafood Expo North America (SENA), but if you think more carefully about it, maybe it is the perfect place to discuss this statement.

The first conference session I attended at SENA was "How Can Market Measures Promote Sustainable Seafood Production and Consumption" which was intended to discuss the following: "What is the current situation, where are we headed, and how can we insure that sustainable practices are adopted to meet future demand? First, a statistical overview of global trends (FAO stats) in seafood production, consumption and trade, along with a comparison of model projections (FAO/OECD/WB) of future production and utilization. Second, identification of key factors that hinder sustainable production, consumption and trade of fish products that threaten our future seafood supplies, global food security, and achievement of the UN Sustainable Development Goals."

The Moderator was Victoria Chomo,  a PhD economist specializing in international trade and development who is currently a Senior Fishery Officer in the Products, Trade and Marketing Branch of the Food and Agriculture Organization (FAO). There were also four expert speakers, including: John Connelly, the President of the National Fisheries Institute (a trade association advocating for the full seafood supply chain); John Henderschedt, the Director of the Office of International Affairs and the Seafood Inspection at NOAA Fisheries; Niklas Wehner, Advisor at the Deutsche Gesellschaft für Internationale Zusammenarbeit (GIZ); and Barton Seaver, of the Sustainable Seafood & Health Initiative at the Center for Health & the Global Environment at the Harvard T.H. Chan School of Public Health.

Initially, Victoria Chomo began discussing the United Nations Food and Agriculture Organization (FAO), which is involved in food security and sustainability. In September 2015, U.N. members agreed to a series of sustainability goals, adopting the 2030 Agenda for Sustainable Development and its 17 Sustainable Development Goals. For this conference session, they concentrated on Goal #12, "Ensure sustainable consumption and production patterns." However, Goal #14, "Conserve and sustainably use the oceans, seas and marine resources", would probably also be applicable here.

We then proceeded to learn about the worldwide role of seafood and how integral it is to the global economy and more. The global fish & seafood value chain was estimated at approximately $818 Billion in 2008. That can be broken down into Capture Fisheries $100 Billion, Aquaculture $98 Billion, Primary Processing $90 Billion, Secondary Processing $180 Billion, and Distribution $350 Billion. It is the most highly traded food commodity in the world. About 880 million people, 12% of the world population, subsist on these fish & seafood value chains for their livelihood.

About 3 billion people rely on seafood for more than 20% of their animal protein intake, and some as much as 50%. Unfortunately, approximately 30% of seafood production ends up as waste, which is a significant problem for our entire food industry. It is predicted that aquaculture will rise to 57% within the next 10 years, necessary to help feed the world's growing population. Though some oppose increased aquaculture, its conversion efficiency is better than terrestrial proteins, including beef, pork and chicken. In addition, it has very low on emissions with bivalves have the lowest.

John Connelly then spoke, first noting that most people, except for governments and NGOs, don't talk in terms of Sustainable Development Goals (SDG). This term needs to be translates into business practices. He also mentioned that he believes it is the government's responsibility to ensure sustainability as it is a common. In addition, he mentioned that the seafood industry wants better communication from the government. For example, he feels that NOAA doesn't talk enough about efficiency and fisheries, caring more about scientific assessments. Finally, addressing the issue of waste, he stated this was a new issue for the industry, which needs to examine the issue much more to learn how and where they can reduce waste. I'm not sure I agree that it is a new issue, though its importance might have only been raised in the recent past.

Next, John Henderschedt stepped up, agreeing with most of what Connelly already said. He added that the government can be informative, telling the market and public about what is sustainable and what is not. He stated that we want informed consumers, educated about seafood sustainability. The final speaker was Niklas Wehner, who discussed the rules of development corporations.

However, it was the speech from Barton Seaver that most resonated with me, which caused me to contemplate much of what he said. He began stating: "We don't know how to talk about seafood." He continued, noting that we don't have a great definition of "sustainable seafood," especially as there are so many elements of sustainability. Seafood often isn't included in discussion about "good food" despite it being maybe the only food with the term "food" actually in it. We need to look at seafood more from a cultural viewpoint.

Seafood suffers from "otherness," being seen as different from other foods. Over time, seafood lost its identity, partially from the advent of refrigeration and a decrease in home cooking. When people commonly think of proteins, they usually don't include seafood in their thoughts. It is also the only food that is considered guilty before being innocent. It is something people think must be analyzed, to determine whether it passes a person's standards or not. These same individuals don't conduct that same analysis with their beef, chicken, or pork.

The culinary aspect of seafood scares people, who feel intimidated when trying to cook seafood. Currently, Americans eat almost only 10 species of fish, 8 if you group the catfish together. Other fish and seafood is not seen as having the same value as these 10. Our fishermen catch so many other species and this is an unsustainable economic situation. We demand the market supply for fish rather than take what is caught. We must all start eating other species of fish and seafood, going beyond the common 10. We need to be less pressure on those common 10 and also help fishermen who catch all the other species. This is an issue I'll be writing about more in the near future.

Barton then raised an issue I hadn't considered before, but which makes much sense. He stated that one of the biggest obstacles to sustainability is the recipe. The problem is that recipes usually are composed to use a specific type of fish. For example, you will find recipes for Cod and Mussels, Salmon and Crab. Some seafood cookbooks break down into chapters for these specific seafood types. However, Barton feels that recipes shouldn't specify the fish type but be more generic, such as a "light, flaky whitefish."

The idea is to encourage home cooks to seek outside the common 10 and use other seafood species, which are similar to the common ones they already enjoy. That is excellent advice, though such a cookbook would probably need to have a list somewhere, grouping seafood species by the generic definitions within the cookbook. For example, the average consumer doesn't know what dogfish is like, so they would need to have some guidance as to what type of recipes it would fit within. Barton also had advice for Chefs, that they should not ask for specific species but should ask for what is fresh. In addition, they should "sell the dish, not the seafood."

Barton then moved on, stating that we need to "end the conversation of wild vs farmed." He feels it is an artificial distinction, that we should treat them both the same and stop arguing about aquaculture. In a recent online article, Barton expanded upon this issue and it is worth a read. He makes numerous valid points and I have long been a proponent of aquaculture as well. You'll find numerous articles on my blog discussing aquaculture.

As Barton says, "Seafood is such an amazing opportunity" and "Seafood sustains us." He also noted how valuable it is for our health, how numerous studies show that eating sufficient seafood can reduce your risk of heart disease by about 36%. A doctor from Tufts once told him of the 3 Ss of good health: Wear Seatbelts, No Smoking, and Eat Seafood.

"Fish lacks story." Barton is not the first sustainable seafood proponent that I have heard make this point, and its validity is without dispute. Barton feels we need to use other methods to connect people to seafood, and shouldn't start with the seafood. We need to connect it more to cultural issues. For example, we can talk about social issues such as the fact that 52% of the people involved in aquaculture are women. Aquaculture provides plenty of jobs and that is a great story. In addition, we should consider the story of how we keep fishermen in business, the civic values of helping members of our community. We all should "Talk about sustainability in any measure that is meaningful to you."

Barton Seaver provided me much to ponder and I hope it helped spark something within my readers as well. People need to eat more seafood, for an abundance of reasons, from improving your own health to helping local fishermen make a living. Stop treating seafood as an enemy and treat it as you would hamburger or fried chicken.

NECAT's Annual Fundraiser: Olives Pop-Up

Last December, I was strongly touched by my visit to the New England Center for Arts & Technology (NECAT) and wrote an article, NECAT: A Culinary School Worthy Of Special Attention. I previously wrote: "For my other readers, I encourage you to learn more about NECAT and give them your support. Take a tour of the facility, have lunch there, or attend a future event. If you can donate money to NECAT, please do so. And importantly, help spread the word about NECAT. It needs to be much better known and strongly depends on word of mouth to do so. If you know anyone who would benefit from attending NECAT's culinary program, please tell them about the opportunities."

Continuing my support of NECAT, and trying to raise more awareness of this fulfilling program, I wanted to alert my readers about the upcoming annual fundraiser to benefit NECAT. On April 22, from 6pm–10pm, NECAT will host an Olives Pop-Up. I was at their last fundraiser and it was an excellent event, with plenty of delicious food.

Their description of this event notes: "When Olives opened its doors in 1989, the restaurant started a culinary revolution in Boston and launched the careers of countless executive chefs and restaurant owners. The Olives alumni have maintained a close bond over the years, and encouraged the careers of the next generation of cooks.

"Olives Chef de Cuisine Paul O’Connell (former chef/owner Chez Henri in Cambridge) continues to embody the passion and spirit of such collaboration as the Culinary Training Director at the New England Center for Arts and Technology (NECAT). NECAT ‘s innovative culinary arts and job readiness training program has moved many participants from the margins of society into the mainstream. In the same way that Olive’s transformed Boston’s food scene, NECAT is transforming lives.

"Join us at NECAT where Olives is popping up with the original crew to reunite and to recreate the signature dishes and drinks that became the hallmark of the original Charlestown eatery. The Pop Up Benefit will feature an elegant cocktail reception followed by a multi-course dinner inspired by their original menu. This exclusive and unique reunion of chefs promises to deliver Olives most memorable dishes in an interactive dining experience, one that promises to feed your appetite and help fund NECAT’s mission of preparing disadvantaged individuals for work, life and a promising future."

The Event Co-chairs will be Olivia English & Oliver English. There will be Food Presentation by Chefs including Todd English, Paul Booras, Joe Brenner, Tiffani Faison, Barbara Lynch, Paul O’Connell and other special guests

Tickets are limited, cost $250 and can be purchased on Eventbrite

You can also contact Joey Cuzzi (at jcuzzi@ne-cat.org or 617-429-2625) for sponsorship opportunities.

Rant: Where's My Broth?

Mussels. They are delicious, inexpensive, healthy & sustainable. Unfortunately, despite these compelling reasons, only about 1.1% of Americans purchase mussels. That needs to change and I've written about this matter before. Check out my prior articles: Want Cheap, Tasty, Healthy & Sustainable Seafood? Choose Mussels; Eating More Mussels; and Master Class--Canada’s Organic Blue Mussels.

One of the most popular ways to serve mussels is in a broth or sauce, sometimes adding chorizo, tomatoes, or other ingredients to it. The broth/sauce should be tasty in of itself, an alluring liquid which you might even want to devour as you would a soup. With your mussels, you commonly receive some bread, maybe toasted or grilled, which is intended to be dipped into the broth/sauce. That adds a second level to the dish, and if the broth/sauce is especially compelling, it helps to elevate the quality of the dish.

However, the dish can fail if the broth/sauce lacks flavor, even if the mussels are cooked perfectly. The same would apply if the broth/sauce is excellent and the mussels failed. Both elements need to be excellent, with a failure in one leading to a failure for the entire dish. There is a caveat though, as even if both elements are excellent, the dish could ultimately fail, or at least be ultimately disappointing. How is that possible?

Recently, I checked out a new restaurant, ordering their Mussels, which came with a white wine broth and chorizo, as well as some slices of grilled bread. The mussels were cooked well, tender and tasty, and the chorizo added a nice spicy kick to the dish. The broth was tasty too, and it made you want to sop up the broth with your bread. However, the dish still disappointed me.

Where's my broth?

The problem was that the dish contained only a small amount of broth, not enough for dipping all the bread. Not enough for your spoon if you wanted to eat the broth as a soup. The broth is an important element of such a mussels dish, and a sufficient quantity of that broth should be present. With only a tiny amount of broth in the dish, you also have to move aside lots of the mussels to be able to reach the broth at the bottom. You shouldn't have to work that hard for a tiny amount of broth.

Yes, it might seem like a little thing, but it can make or break a dish. It would be easy for the restaurant to remedy and it would make their customers much happier. Give us sufficient broth to enjoy, for dipping our bread and for simply enjoying on its own.

And Eat More Mussels!

Seafood Mastery With Chef Uri Jeremias at NECAT

Last month, I praised NECAT: A Culinary School Worthy Of Special Attention, as it is helping to fill the need for trained cooks as well as assisting local people, with challenging backgrounds, to move forward, leave their past behind, and start a new career. It is a great cause, but like most non-profits it can always use more financial support, especially in light of proposed State budget cuts.

One way NECAT hopes to raise some funds is through their new Master Chef Series, where they invite a famous Chef to work with their students, preparing a special dinner event. The first Master Chef event was held on December 8, and included passed hors d’oeuvres, a cooking demonstration and a five-course Middle Eastern dinner, centered on seafood. I attended this event as a media guest, and also had a chance to interview their featured chef, the fascinating Uri Jeremias.

The resemblance to Santa Claus, including the fact that Uri Jeremias is a very jovial person, is a natural conclusion, especially during December. Chef Jeremias is the owner of Uri Buri, a famous seafood restaurant located in Akko, Israel, and it was established in 1989. Akko, also known as Acre, is located in northern Israel on the Haifa Bay, and has a rich and vibrant history, over 5000 years, and is considered to be one of the oldest cities in the world.

Jeremias, who is around 70 years old, was born in the coastal city of Nahariya. As a child, he was drawn to the sea, becoming a fishermen and diver, often cooking the seafood he caught for family and friends. The Mediterranean Sea provided a rich and diverse bounty for his fishing. As Jeremias had ADHD, he didn't attend school too much, preferring to spend his time at the harbor. He loved the quality and quantity of the seafood he found, and self taught himself how to cook. His mother wasn't keen on him cleaning the fish at home so she made him clean it outside.

After being tossed out of school when he was 16 years old, he spent a number of years traveling the world. He also served in the Israel Defense Forces, eventually quitting to open a seafood restaurant, urged on by his many friends who loved his cooking. He "... decided he would cook for friends, not customers or clients, but friends." The restaurant is located in a 400-year old Ottoman-era building, serving simple seafood dishes and many Israeli wines.

Jeremias has remained self-taught, having never formally studied the culinary arts and never having trained with another chef. For most of his career, he also hasn't relied on written recipes and only began putting his recipes onto paper when he started working on his cookbook. Interestingly, he takes in a number of young people to his restaurant to teach them how to cook seafood but after three years he sends them to culinary school. He feels it is important for them to share a common knowledge with other cooks from other restaurants. In addition, he notes that it has only been in recent years have Israeli cooking schools taught about seafood.

His favorite seafood is whatever is freshest in the market. He also believes that there are is no bad seafood, only bad cooks. In addition, he doesn't cook what he won't eat, so there is nothing for show on his playing. Everything is edible and intended to be eaten. Jeremias stated "food has its own aestethic," something many of the best chefs understand. Visually appealing dishes can be very important, though taste is still the most important aspect.

Chef Jeremias generally uses no more than 8 ingredients on any plate, trying to keep it simple. However, he also believes that you can spend an entire lifetime working on different combinations of 8 ingredients, and you still will only create a fraction of the myriad possibilities. There is plenty to discover with taste, even with only 8 ingredients. He prefers to prepare small portions for sharing as he feels that after 5-6 bites, a dish is no longer interesting to eat.

Importantly, sustainability is crucial to him, as he "believes in preserving nature," noting "we do too much damage already," emptying and polluting the oceans. He won't serve endangered species and doesn't believe others should do so either. He is an ardent proponent of farmed seafood, nothing that it is the future of seafood and certainly cannot be ignored.

Jeremias provide some important and simple advice for home cooks on preparing seafood. To him, the main reason for failure in the kitchen are the raw materials used. As such, his two basic rules of cooking are simple: 1) Use the best raw materials; and 2) Don't spoil them. Seafood isn't difficult to cook but many home cooks are afraid of the smell or the bones, and also don't know how to properly buy seafood at the market. Fish just needs to be cooked carefully and for a short time. And to help home cooks even more, Jeremias will soon be bringing his seafood cookbook to the U.S.

His cookbook, Buri: Fish and Seafood, is essentially divided into two parts, the first section concerning how to buy and cook seafood while the second section contains all of the recipes. He believes it is vital for consumers to know how to purchase seafood, a sentiment I have heard from a number of other seafood chefs. It is also important to be able to determine the differences between fresh and frozen seafood, a much greater difference than that encountered with beef and pork. The first section also discusses the basic cooking techniques that can be used to prepare seafood. This entire section is created to allay the fears of home cooks and I think it is a great idea, and much needed. The book also contain numerous photos of seafood, but as they are presented in the market, not in the wild. This will better help consumers buy seafood at their local market.

At the Master Chef event, Jeremias conducted a cooking demo, preparing a simple Mackerel dish for the attendees. What an incredible aroma from the cooking fish, lots of garlic and fish sauce. He spent several days working at NECAT and loved it, thinking that it was a special time. He was truly touched by NECAT, noting that it was a "light shining in the darkness." As we chatted, he stated that NECAT, and similar programs, should receive plenty of government assistance as it so important for individuals as well as the community. It is a win/win proposition, and worthy of hearty support.

The evening of the Master Chef event began with a reception presenting a variety of passed hors d’oeuvres, with beer and wine. With each bite of these tasty treats, you were drawn into the culinary wonders of Chef Jeremias and the students at NECAT. From an Eggplant Bruschetta, with a smoky and earthy edge, to a bright Ceviche with Sea Bream, it was difficult not to fill up on these small items, though you knew there was a five-course dinner still to come. The other guests also raved about the hors d’oeuvres, and we talked about which were our favorites.

After a cooking demonstration, we then sat down for the main meal, presented family style. We began with Majadra, a common Middle Eastern fish of lentils, rice and onions. "Majadra" is from an Arabic word that means "pockmarked" as the lentils in the rice allegedly resemble pockmarks. It was a hearty dish, with intriguing spices, enhanced by the earthiness of the lentils. It was easy to understand the popularity of this dish.

There was also an Arugula Salad, made with golden beets, cucumber, parsley, organic carrot, and pomegranate seeds. A nice combination of fresh ingredients.

The Shrimp a la Artichoke was made with citrus, butter, artichoke, and fresh pasta, presenting juicy shrimp in a light and acidic sauce. This showed the simplicity of the seafood dishes of Chef Jeremias, yet it certainly didn't lack in taste.

The Tuna a la Plancha, served on top of yogurt, with some picante spices, was another delicious dish. The tuna was moist and meaty, with pleasant spices and a hint of heat, which could be soothed by the creamy yogurt.

My favorite dish of the evening was the Mackerel, with fresh coriander, green and red chili peppers, olive oil and garlic. The clean and compelling taste of the fish was at the forefront, enhanced by a mild spicy heat and the delicious taste of garlic. Simple perfection.

Chef Uri Jeremias lives up to his vaunted reputation as a master of seafood and it was an honor to have been invited to the Master Chef dinner. I eagerly await the publication of his cookbook in the U.S. and highly recommend everyone else do the same if you have any interest in learning how to cook seafood. I often recommended that people eat more seafood and cook more seafood at home. I've provided advice from other chefs on how to cook seafood at home, and this new seafood cookbook would provide plenty of valuable advice for home cooks.

I also want to once again raise awareness of NECAT, a Culinary School Worthy Of Special Attention. Their Master Chef series will continue in 2017 so you should keep an eye out for the next event. It is a great way to support NECAT and I'm sure you'll also enjoy plenty of delicious food and drink.

NECAT: A Culinary School Worthy Of Special Attention

This week, a unique culinary school in Boston, the New England Center for Arts & Technology (NECAT), will graduate another class of new cooks and those graduates will likely end up at a number of local restaurants and kitchens. Unfortunately, you probably know nothing about this culinary school and that really needs to change.

I didn't know anything about this culinary school until recently and after learning about it, I strongly believe that it needs much more attention. It is providing a great service to the community and needs our support in a number of ways. Local restaurants and other commercial kitchens should also learn about this school, to realize that it can be a valuable source for much needed kitchen staff.

The Boston area has a shortage of culinary help and this school is helping to fill that need but it also is helping their students forge a new future, providing them an opportunity for a fulfilling and rewarding career. This is especially important as some of these students are ex-convicts while others are recovering addicts. Some are high-school dropouts while others are unemployed or chronically underemployed.

NECAT is helping to show their students that they don't need to be defined by their past, that they can move forward despite what they might have once done. They are helped to believe in themselves so that they can change their lives for the better. They might have challenged backgrounds but that isn't sufficient to hold them back, if they are willing to work toward a better future. These are such worthy goals, creating a better community for all of us.

Located in the Newmarket business district, NECAT occupies the site of a former Asian banquet facility. Its origins extend back several years, to a chance meeting at a funeral. At this funeral, Maarten Hemsley (pictured above), a financial executive, met Bill Strickland, the founder of the Manchester Bidwell Corporation, a career and cultural training center established in Pittsburgh in 1968. Strickland replicated his centers in a number of regions across the U.S. and wanted to start one in the Boston area. He convinced Hemsley to do so, laying the foundation for NECAT.

Initially, NECAT considered creating a training center for medical technology jobs however, when researching the career needs of the Boston area, they saw the high need for culinary workers so decided to concentrate on that industry. NECAT, a nonprofit business, finally opened in September 2013, only three years ago. It is still a young company, having hired this past year a new Executive Director, Josephine Cuzzi, and a Culinary Director, Paul O'Connell (former Chef-Owner of Chez Henri). They, and the rest of the staff, are forging ahead, honing the concept and educational curriculum, as well as trying to raise the visibility of this fascinating institution.

I recently toured the NECAT facility and spoke with Executive Director Cuzzi, and was immediately struck by its dedication to aesthetics. In this regard, NECAT is following one of Strickland's guiding principles, that "Environment shapes people’s lives." As Strickland stated, “Environment shapes behavior. The beauty of the physical environment is essential. It nourishes the spirit. You can’t show a person how to build a better life if they feel no pleasure in the simple act of being alive. You can’t inspire a person to live a better life if they don’t know what a good life feels like.”

If you create a beautiful space for learning, it will help to show the students that they are valued, providing them more motivation to succeed. It will also make them feel better about where they are learning. If they were taught in some dingy kitchen, with outdated equipment, they wouldn't feel as good as they do as in a place like NECAT. The importance of aesthetics is not a concept that is commonly addressed in numerous businesses but it can have a significant impact. Maybe the aesthetics of the work place should be considered more often.

At NECAT, the hallways are decorated with a wide variety of artwork, inspirational posters and photography. For example, there is one section of hallway (pictured above) covered with numerous photographs of Martin Luther King, a nod to the center's dedication to social justice.

The entire facility is spacious and clean, well-lit and welcoming. The main kitchen is well outfitted with professional equipment. You feel like this is a quality facility and you would be proud to be taught here. It doesn't feel like they are cutting corners in any way. Students can feel like they are receiving a professional education, that the facility cares about their lives.

A significant portion of the classroom instruction occurs in a wood paneled auditorium which also acts a demonstration kitchen. There is an induction oven as well as two large video screens, allowing the students to see everything that the instructor does. During my visit, some of the students were studiously working on their culinary creations while others were talking with the instructor. There was a positive vibe in the air, with plenty of smiles and laughter, yet it was clear that this was a learning environment.

In this photo, you can see that the students are creating croquembouche, a traditional French dessert. I could perceive the intense concentration of the students as they tried to assemble their pyramids of pastry.

Students attend a 16-week culinary program, from Monday to Friday, from 9am-3pm each day. Initially, the program had been 28 weeks, from Monday to Thursday, but this was found to be too long and unnecessary. They were able to condense the program, without eliminating any significant information. Currently, a Culinary Director and two instructors determine the curriculum and teach the students.

During the first 8 weeks of the program, students wear a black hat and learn the basics, from knife cuts to various cooking techniques. During the second 8 weeks, the students exchange their black hats for orange ones, performing more actual cooking, as well as engaging in internships and stages (some paid) at various local restaurants and kitchens. As each class graduates, another class starts.

The students prepare lunch every day and guests are welcome to visit NECAT and partake of these lunches. I enjoyed one of their lunches last week, a hearty and tasty dish including chicken thighs, buffalo mac n' cheese, and a hash croquette. The students and instructors enjoy this lunch as well.

Students must present a professional appearance during the program, including ensuring that their uniforms are neatly pressed. As such, the school provides irons for the students to press their clothes, noting that not all of their students have access to an iron at their homes. Presenting a professional appearance is important for job interviews as well as when the graduates are hired by a restaurant or kitchen.

A new class, sometimes called a cohort, begins every eight weeks, and generally consists of about 30 people. By the time of graduation, that number is usually reduced to about 15-20 as some students drop out while others acquire a job and don't finish the program. NECAT is working on raising the percentage of graduates though it is challenging. They also would like to institute a second class, a night program, which would allow them to increase the number of students, though they need additional donations and funding to support that expansion. Since their opening, NECAT has graduated 325 students, each year growing the number of graduates. For example, they should graduate approximately 150 students in 2016.

As for the student demographics, here are some rough statistics. There is a ratio of about 70% men and 30% women, aged from 18 to 60 years old. About 84% are people of color, 53% are on public assistance, 26% are in addiction recovery, 40% have a criminal background and 35% are high school dropouts. Most of the students come from Roxbury, Dorchester and Mattapan, due to the proximity of the school, but students are welcome from any Massachusetts city or town.

As NECAT has a small budget, they aren't able to engage in much advertising, so they rely heavily on word of mouth and guerrilla marketing. They work with a number of social services, seeking potential students. They also attend some community events, showcasing the skills of their students. Every Tuesday, they hold information sessions for potential applicants, and usually there are about six applicants each week.

You can review their application criteria and note that applicants require a high school diploma or GED. In most other regards though, NECAT is "blind to admissions," meaning that they don't hold your past against you and have few restrictions. They are more concerned over whether you are willing to make a commitment to the program. It is estimated that the culinary training for each student is worth approximately $7,000 though applicants only have to pay a $200 fee, which covers a small portion of their supplies, from textbooks to uniforms.

Besides teaching culinary skills, NECAT also instructs the students in other life skills, such as working with a team, conflict resolution, job applications, interviewing, and more. The school wants to ensure they are ready for a new career, able to work well in a kitchen with others. The ultimate goal is to get graduates hired, at a living wage, and provide them a career path for the future. NECAT's graduates will acquire jobs such as Line Cook, Prep Cook, Garde Manger, Caterer, Line Supervisor, Baker, and Sous Chef.

NECAT currently works with about 60 Employer Partners, generally staying away from fast food restaurants. For example, some of those partners include local restaurants such as Puritan & Co., Taranta, and Tremont 647, while other partners include the New England Aquarium, Boston Children's Hospital and the Seaport Hotel. Most recently, Eataly has hired more than a dozen NECAT graduates, and probably will hire more in the near future.

Legal Sea Foods has also hired a number of NECAT graduates and one of their representatives stated to me, "We’ve hired about 7 NECAT graduates this year, and we hope to hire more in the future. We’ve found these graduates to be hard-working and motivated, and a great fit for the open positions we have. We are involved in the program – our Chefs have enjoyed speaking to NECAT classes about Legal Sea Foods and employment opportunities, and sharing their real-world experiences. And we look forward to growing the relationship."

Currently, NECAT calculates that their graduates earn an average of $14 an hour, though they have only just started to track their past graduates to determine what they are currently doing. NECAT is beginning to establish a formal alumni network, which will help them better determine the success of their graduates.

Obviously, funding is essential to the continuation and possible expansion of this culinary program. NECAT relies heavily on state and municipal grants and foundations for revenue. In Friday's Boston Globe, Adrian Walker reported that Governor Charlie Baker's proposed budget could cut $300,000 in state aid to NECAT, about 20% of their budget, which would have a significant negative impact on NECAT's programs. Hopefully that won't occur or a supplemental budget will get passed to restore those lost monies. If the cuts do go through, NECAT will really need additional funding from other sources, from donations to other grants.

Even if their budget is not cut, NECAT still would benefit from additional funding, from whatever source. For example, individual and/or institution donations can be very helpful and you can check out their Donations page for more details on how you can help. In addition, you could also hire NECAT to cater your next event, whether a private party or corporate get-together.

NECAT has also begun a Master Chef Series, fundraising events where they will bring in chefs from all over the world to cook with NECAT students and hold a special dinner. Their first dinner was held last Thursday evening, presenting famed Israeli Chef Uri Jeremias, who owns the Uri Buri seafood restaurant in Akko. I attended the event as a media guest and will be writing about it in the near future. Future Master Chef events are in the planning stages now.

However, to acquire additional funding and donations, NECAT needs greater visibility, for people to understand all of the good that this program provides to the community. Not only are they helping to provide employees for local restaurants and kitchens, but more importantly, they are helping people make better lives for themselves. These people have struggled in their lives, because of various challenging factors, and they can be helped if we are willing to give them an opportunity.

Adrian Walker's Boston Globe article, which I mentioned earlier, also related the story of Khristopher Reed (pictured above), who is set to graduate this week and will begin working at Eataly as a butcher. At last week's Master Chef dinner, I was fortunate to hear Khristopher tell his inspirational story, as he noted that "life is full of changes." He told us of some of the challenges of his life and how so much has turned around due to NECAT's culinary program. He has made many excellent friends among the other students and is so eager to learn new things. He has always had a passion for cooking and now is able to work in that field, due to the opportunity he was given and his own personal dedication to the program. And his is but one of the many inspirational stories you will find at NECAT.

Let us find ways to raise the visibility of NECAT, to share its inspirational stories, to relate its successes. 

Restaurant owners and managers, I strongly encourage you to consider hiring NECAT graduates to fill openings in your kitchens. We all know there is a shortage of good culinary employees and this is a resource you should be using. You not only will be hiring new employees, but you will be helping these graduates start new lives. If you are interested in exploring the possibilities, check out NECAT's Employee Partners page, which provides you the contact information you need.

For my other readers, I encourage you to learn more about NECAT and give them your support. Take a tour of the facility, have lunch there, or attend a future event. If you can donate money to NECAT, please do so. And importantly, help spread the word about NECAT. It needs to be much better known and strongly depends on word of mouth to do so. If you know anyone who would benefit from attending NECAT's culinary program, please tell them about the opportunities.

NECAT is more than worthy of your attention. Please share their story.

Luke's Lobster: Grilled Cheese With Lobster Or Crab

Seafood & cheese.

It's a divisive culinary combination, one sure to ignite passions in each side of the divide. There are some who believe seafood and cheese should never mix, while others are more open to the potential delights of such a combination. An article in the Smithsonian Magazine discussed some of this controversy, siding with those who enjoy seafood and cheese, though noting it doesn't work with all types of seafood.

On Facebook, I held an unofficial poll, asking what people thought of the idea of a Lobster Grilled Cheese sandwich. The answers were essentially split, with roughly half liking the idea while the other half opposed to it, commonly mentioning that they don't believe in combining seafood and cheese at all. Personally, I think seafood and cheese can work very well, dependent on the specific dish. For example, I've previously enjoyed some delicious Lobster Mac n' Cheese and Crab & Cheese casseroles. And the idea of a Lobster Grilled Cheese appeals to me. What do you think of such a sandwich?

I recently had the opportunity to try a Lobster Grilled Cheese and more at Luke's Lobster at their Back Bay location. They also have a location in Downtown Crossing. I was invited as a media guest to check out a couple of the items on their new winter menu, and this was the first time I had dined at this restaurant. It won't be the last.

Luke's Lobster is a chain of sustainable seafood, fast casual restaurants, centered on lobster rolls, with locations across the country, from Maine to Las Vegas, and even in Japan. Started by Luke Holden, a Maine native and former lobsterman, the first Luke's Lobster opened in 2009 in the East Village of New York City. The Back Bay location is one of their largest, seating about 46 people at a number of tables and a counter. The decor has a nautical theme, and the wood for their tables also comes from Maine. On the evening I dined there, many of the tables were occupied, and it was clear most of them were ordering lobster rolls.

Seafood sustainability. I've often written about its importance, that it is essential to the continued existence of the human race. We need to protect endangered seafood species as well as to protect the health and welfare of the oceans and other waters. We cannot continue to destroy our environment and deplete our essential resources. As such, I'm very glad to see that Luke's Lobster is dedicated to serving only traceable, sustainable seafood. On their website, it mentions: "Luke’s handles every step of the supply chain to ensure that only exceptionally fresh seafood is served in our shacks. We hand pick the lobster directly from the lobstermen at the dock, and our sister company, Cape Seafood, immediately cleans and steams it to preserve its freshness and quality."

Cape Seafood, a seafood processing plant in Saco, Maine, was founded in 2012 by Luke and his brother, Bryan, to supply sustainable seafood to Luke's Lobster as well as other seafood restaurants across the country. It is certified sustainable by the MSC and is also a SQF Level 3 food safety certified seafood company. This is important as some seafood landed in the U.S. actually gets sent overseas to be processed, which can cause problems with traceability and safety.

Much of their seafood is sourced from the waters of New England, from Maine lobsters to Crab from New Bedford. Their Shrimp generally comes from Eastern Canada, and not from Southeast Asia where many other restaurants source their shrimp. There have been significant problems with some Southeast Asia shrimp farms, from slavery to environmental destruction, so sourcing locally can avoid any potential problems. I've often advised that we need to eat more domestic seafood, as about 90% of the seafood we now eat is imported, and I'm very glad to see Luke's sourcing.

The picture above shows a sign which is prominent in the restaurant, keeping customers updated on the source of all of Luke's seafood. Consumers should know where their seafood comes from and it's great to see that the bounties of our local waters is being served.

Their Menu is small and basic, helping them concentrate on ensuring the quality of their items. They don't need an extensive menu. Your basic choice is the Lobster ($17), Crab ($13) or Shrimp ($9) Rolls, which are served Maine style, on a buttered, toasted, New England-style split top bun with "a swipe of mayo, drizzle of lemon butter, and dash of secret seasoning." As each roll is made fresh, you could omit or add extra of any of those toppings. That is especially good for those people who dislike mayo. The Lobster Rolls are their biggest seller, about four times greater than their other rolls, and on a Saturday, they can easily sell 300-350 lobster rolls, if not more.

For an additional $3, you can make your roll a Combo, adding a drink, chips or slaw, and a pickle. And you can also add a side soup as well for another $7-$8. The menu has a number of Sides, including: Clam Chowder, Soup, Grilled Cheese ($5), Jonah Crab Claws, Lobster Tail, Slaw, and Cape Cod Chips. There are usually some seasonal items too, such as the Kale Warm Grain Salad ($15), which is topped by a chilled lobster tail, on their winter menu. The winter menu items also include a Lobster Grilled Cheese ($13) and a Crab Grilled Cheese ($10).

Their soups and chowders are made by Hurricane's Soups, a small family business located in Maine. I tried the New England Clam Chowder, which is made with fresh wild clams, clam broth, heavy cream, diced potatoes & minced onion. It wasn't too thick or thin, having plenty of small pieces of potato and clams. It had a pleasing and creamy taste and it was also good to see that even the Oyster Crackers were local, from Westminster Bakers in Vermont.

The Lobster Grilled Cheese ($13) consists of an 1/8 of a pound of Maine lobster, melted Gruyere cheese, and organic white bread. As you can see, there's plenty of lobster within the sandwich, primarily knuckle and claw meat. The thin slices of buttery bread were grilled and crispy while the Gruyere added some creaminess and a nutty touch to the sandwich. The lobster has a touch of sweetness and adds some chewy texture to the sandwich too. Overall, it was quite tasty, well-balanced, and an excellent comfort food, elevating the simple grilled cheese.

Yes, lobster and cheese worked well here and I think the choice of Gruyere was a good one. The combination brings to mind the classic French dish of Lobster Thermidor, which is typically topped by melted Gruyere. You typically think of a Lobster Roll as a summer treat and this grilled cheese makes for a fine option for the chillier weather of the autumn and winter.

The Crab Grilled Cheese ($10) also consists of an 1/8 of a pound of Crab meat, melted Gruyere cheese, and organic white bread. The same comments about the bread and cheese apply here, and the sweet and plentiful crab meat was an excellent addition to the grilled cheese. There was less texture than the lobster meat, but actually in a good way. In fact, I had a slight preference for the Crab Grilled Cheese though I certainly enjoyed the Lobster as well. Crab and cheese is another combination which I think works very well.

My only minor issue with the Gruyere and bread is that they are not sourced locally as the Gruyere is from Wisconsin and the bread from Colorado. When I raised the issue, I was told that it would be brought up to management for discussion. There seems to be little reason why they couldn't find a more local source for both items. And it seems that it would better follow their basic value of using local sourcing.

To enjoy after your meal, or even as your meal, they serve two Sweets, Sea Salt Chocolate Chip Cookies ($3) and an Ice Cream Sandwich ($3.50), with the cookies for both sourced from the South End Buttery and the ice cream from Gifford's (located in Maine).

I'm a fan of the South End Buttery and their Sea Salt Chocolate Chip Cookies deliver, with a compelling blend of sweet and salty. It's a fine way to enjoy a meal, and aren't too heavy. Or you can just buy them and take them home to enjoy later if you are too full.

Luke's Lobster impressed me with their basic concept, including their devotion to seafood sustainability, and their food was tasty and compelling. Yes, seafood and cheese can work well together, though I'm not not everyone will agree. For pleasing comfort food this season, check out Luke's Lobster for their grilled cheese, and enjoy either the Lobster or Crab.

Rant: Keep Eating More Seafood!

As it's Halloween, let's start with something very scary...

According to the Centers for Disease Control & Prevention (CDC) the leading cause of death in the U.S. is heart disease, killing nearly 600,000 people each year. We all have had family and friends who have died from heart disease, and we should be doing what we can to reduce our chances of acquiring heart disease. Do you want to die prematurely, leaving your loved ones without your presence?

As I've been saying for years, seafood consumption is a significant key to reducing your chances of heart disease. Since the 1970s, over 20,000 research studies have been conducted on the health benefits of seafood and they have concluded that eating seafood twice a week can reduce your chance of dying from heart disease by about 36%. You probably won't find another single food that has been scientifically proven to reduce heart disease so much. Eating more seafood is such a simple change to your lifestyle and it can can save lives.

Low seafood consumption is blamed for 84,000 deaths in the U.S. and 1.4 million globally. Besides helping to reduce heart disease, research has also been providing growing evidence of the health benefits to the brain and bones as well as against cancers and inflammatory diseases.  The USDA and many other bodies recommend that Americans should consume at least 26 pounds of seafood each year. In general, to gain the beneficial health benefits, you should eat seafood twice a week.

Unfortunately, seafood consumption in the U.S. had been on a steady decline. In 2013, the average American consumed only about 14.5 pounds of seafood, which was the seventh year of consecutive decreased consumption. Only about 20% of consumers ate seafood twice a week. In comparison, average seafood consumption was 15.8 pounds in 2010. In 2014, there was a minor uptick in consumption, to 14.6 pounds of seafood, but the question was whether this was an anomaly or the start of a new trend.

Fortunately, there are positive signs from 2015, and we can hope this positive change continues in the coming years. The National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration’s recently released their annual report on U.S. consumption, Fisheries of the United States 2015. Annual seafood consumption increased to 15.5 pounds, almost an entire pound higher than the previous year. Wow! That is great news, though still significantly short of the goal of 26 pounds per person.

If we want this positive trend to continue, we need to continue to find ways to persuade people, overcoming their objections, to eat seafood more frequently. More outreach is needed. We need more positive articles in the media espousing the health benefits of eating seafood. We need to overcome the obstacles that prevent people from consuming more seafood, such as its high cost and the difficulties many people have cooking seafood at home. We need to get Americans to eat more than another 9 pounds of seafood each year. It's a formidable goal, but it can be accomplished. You owe it to yourself, and your family, to eat more seafood and benefit your health.

Keep eating more seafood!

Little Leaf Farms: Now & The Future (Part 3)

Did you know that approximately 20% of all cases of food poisoning are due to leafy greens, more than any other type of food?

I've already written about some of the advantages of Little Leaf Farms, from its use of rainwater to its incredibly high yields, thereby saving even greater resources. This is an innovative operation, which succeeds on many levels, creating a more sustainable farm which offers many advantages over conventional lettuce farms. I want to note other advantages too, as well as to discuss the availability and taste of their leafy greens.

Back in January 2013, the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC) released a comprehensive report, covering the period of 1998-2008, on the sources of food poisoning. The report mentioned that there are about 48 million cases of food poisoning each year, which includes about 3,000 deaths. Leafy greens constitute the greatest single source of food poisoning though they are not as deadly as other sources such as poultry. An important reason why leafy greens can cause food poisoning is due to unsanitary field workers. You certainly need to thoroughly wash lettuce before eating, and hope that restaurants you patronize do the same. If not, you risk potential food poisoning.

At Little Leaf, because of all their automated processes, there is only minimal human interaction in the process, and gloves are used on those few times when intervention is necessary. What that means is that the potential risk of food poisoning from their leafy means is drastically reduced from what you will find in field-grown leafy greens. That is another compelling reason to purchase Little Leaf leafy greens. If you've ever had a case of food poisoning, from items such as listeria or salmonella, you surely don't want a repeat so you'll want to take measures to reduce your risk of another such illness. In addition, they never use any type of chlorine-based cleaners or other chemical washing agents on their leafy greens.

As I've previously mentioned, over 98% of the lettuce in our country is grown in California and Arizona. It must then be trucked across the country to New England, incurring additional transportation costs, using additional resources and incurring a greater environmental impact than local products. With Little Leaf Farms, their leafy greens can be on store shelves the day after it is harvested, meaning you get fresher greens, with a lower impact on the environment and using less resources. Many people want to support local businesses, especially if they provide an excellent product, and Little Leaf Farms is worthy of your support.

Scientific support for the Little Leaf Farms hydroponic farm also comes from a recent study published in the International Journal of Environmental Research & Public Health. The study, titled Comparison of Land, Water, and Energy Requirements of Lettuce Grown Using Hydroponic vs. Conventional Agricultural Methods, compared hydroponic to field agriculture for lettuce farms in Arizona. They found hydroponics yielded about 11 times more lettuce than field agriculture and also used 13 times less water. However, it required significant more energy but that is also based on the location of Arizona, which has a hotter climate. The study notes that cooler climate regions would have much less energy needs, and renewable sources of energy would also reduce the ultimate cost.

As Little Leaf Farms is located in Massachusetts, which possesses a much overall cooler climate than Arizona, energy needs would be much less. In addition, as mentioned before, Little Leaf uses some solar power to combat energy issues, and a number of the components of their farm have also been designed to conserve energy. In addition, their yields should be much greater than what was found in the study, which is only another added benefit.

Currently, Little Leaf Farms is growing six different leafy greens, including arugula, green leaf, red leaf, multiblond, red chard and finstar, though they are not yet selling a commercial product including their finstar. Currently, they sell two commercial products, a Red & Green Leaf Mix and a Spring Mix (which includes arugula, green leaf, red leaf, multiblond, & red chard), in 5 ounce bags at a competitive price. Their leafy greens, which came onto the market in July, are available at many of the large supermarkets, including Stop & Shop, Star Market, Shaws, Market Basket, Hannafords, and Big Y, as well as smaller markets like Russo's. In addition, restaurants can order bulk, four-pound boxes of the Little Leaf products through Baldor Food.

The big question arises, how do these leafy greens taste?

My favorite of their leafy greens was their Arugula, with a strong and compelling peppery flavor, and it also reminded me in part to garlic. The arugula isn't as bitter as others I have tasted and it makes a great base for a salad, and would be versatile for many other dishes as well. Little Leaf sells boxes of just their arugula to restaurants and I would highly recommend that restaurants check it out, as it contains lots of flavor.

The Finstar lettuce, a cross between romaine and ice berg lettuce, was crisp and clean, with a nice texture and the taste of romaine.

The Red Chard is a more bitter green but with some buttery notes on the finish.

The Red Leaf is a milder flavored lettuce

"Lettuce is a vehicle to transport refrigerated water from farm to table."
--Tamar Haspel, a columnist at The Washington Post

In Tamar's article, she attacked salads, stating they are "overrated" and "pitifully low in nutrition" though her words generally concerned iceberg lettuce and not other leafy greens. It is those other leafy greens which actually are nutritious, with the darker greens tending to be the most nutritious. Leafy greens generally are good sources of vitamin K, vitamin A, vitamin C and iron. Tamar's criticisms are much less applicable if you use different types of leafy greens in your salad. The Little Leaf operation also avoids some of the other problems Tamar mentions, such as the risk of food poisoning.

Little Leaf Farms is also socially conscious, and provides hundred of cases of leafy greens each week to local food banks and other support organizations such as Loaves & Fishes and The Greater Boston Food Bank. How many farms in California or Arizona are contributing to food banks in Massachusetts?

Though Little Leaf Farms has only started selling their leafy greens, they have been looking to the future. They hope to break ground next year on a second greenhouse, basically the same size as the existing one, and attach it to the current building. Within three to five years, they hope to grow even more, constructing a couple other greenhouses. They are also likely to add to their product line, such as maybe an Arugula-only bag for consumers (which is a great idea).

One of their biggest challenges is raising consumer awareness of their products. Their operation is fascinating, sustainable, innovative and local. Their leafy greens are tasty, fresh and present a drastically reduced risk of food poisoning. However, consumers need to learn those facts, to be aware they have a new local option for leafy greens. And getting the word out to consumers is not an easy task.

At the supermarket, consumers are confronted with a variety of lettuce brands, in various types of packaging. Currently, the Little Leaf Farms packaging doesn't really stand out and doesn't emphasize the fact that the leafy greens are grown locally in Massachusetts. If you look closely at the bags, you can learn that information, but the average consumer is unlikely to do so. The packaging needs to make that information much more prominent and visible. It needs to attract the attention of consumers, to make them look more closely at their packages.

Restaurants too need to be made aware of this new option, to learn about these locally grown leafy greens which can add to the flavors of their dishes. Their food purveyors may not mention that they now stock Little Leaf Farms, so restaurants might need to specifically request it.

Little Leaf Farms may be the future of leafy greens and I strongly recommend that you check out their products.

Check out Part 1
Check out Part 2