TasteCamp 2016: Vermont Bound!

Vermont, the Green Mountain State, is the leading producer of maple syrup in the country. It is also well known for its dairy farms, cheese and Ben & Jerry's Ice Cream. In the winter, it is well known for its fabulous ski trails while in the fall, leaf peeping is extremely popular. However, its alcohol industry is much less known, except maybe for the crazily popular and hard to find Heady Topper beer. It is well past time that the rest of Vermont's alcohol industry becomes better known, from its wines to its spirits.

Since 2009, I've written a number of articles and reviews of Vermont wine, cider and spirits and this year will see plenty of additional coverage. In prior year's, I've attended the Vermont Cheesemakers Festival which not only offered an abundance of cheese but also presented some of the wines, ciders, beers and spirits of Vermont, from Boyden Valley Winery to Whistle Pig Distillery. Over the years, I've seen a clear improvement and evolution of their wines and spirits. There is less use of grapes from outside Vermont and the quality continues to improve.

As I mentioned last week, in the Spring I'll be spending a weekend exploring the wines, ciders, beers, Sake and spirits of Vermont, gaining a better understanding of the current status of their drinks industry. From June 3-5, I'll be attending TasteCamp 2016, which will be held this year in scenic Vermont. Approximately forty bloggers, writers and their guests will attend TasteCamp, tasting our way through Vermont. I've attended all but one of the previous TasteCamps (having missed one only because I was at the Kentucky Derby) and I expect the Vermont weekend to be as enjoyable as all the rest.

As in previous TasteCamps, we will meet a variety of producers, visit vineyards, taste dozens of wines, beers, ciders and spirits, dine on local foods and hold a fun BYOB dinner. With its limited size, this is a more intimate event, allowing you to get to know everyone in the group, reconnecting with old friends and meeting new ones too. You also get immersed in the region, gaining a better understanding of its drinks industry. When the weekend is over, numerous posts and articles about the attendees' experiences will be written, sharing their new found knowledge about Vermont.

Along with Lenn Thompson, Todd Trzaskos, and Remy Charest, I have helped to plan our itinerary and participants, which currently includes: la garagista farm + winery, Lincoln Peak Vineyard, Shelburne Vineyard, Fable Farm Cider, SILO Distillery, Vermont Spirits Distilling Co., Stonecutter Spirits, Shacksbury Cider, Putney Mountain Winery, Huntington River Vineyard, Prohibition Pig and Hill Farmstead Brewing. This list will continue to grow and be refined and the weekend should offer some of the best Vermont has to offer. There is even a new Sake brewery in Vermont, the Mercy Brewing Company, which I hope we can get to participate too.

If you would like to attend TasteCamp 2016, there is some limited space available, but you must be a writer or other wine trade professional. You can register here to reserve a spot and if you have any questions, please contact Lenn Thompson. If you are a Vermont producer of drinks or food and are interested in participating, you can comment on this post or contact Lenn.

Can't wait for Spring in Vermont!

Vermont Cheesemakers Festival: July 25

Do you love cheese? If so, then there is one place you definitely should visit this summer, the Vermont Cheesemakers Festival on July 25 in Shelburne, Vermont. I attended the event last year, and despite the crowds, still had an excellent time, savoring tons of cheeses, Vermont wines, and artisan foods.

The event is held on a Sunday, from 10:30am-4:30pm in the Coach Barn of Shelburne Farms. There will be about 50 cheesemakers, 20 wineries and breweries, and 15 artisan food producers. Beside the main event, there will be Seminars, a Cooking Demo and a Cheese Making Demo.

Some of the "cheeses celebrities” at this event will include:

o Steve Jenkins, Cheesemonger and author of several books including The Food Life and the best-selling Cheese Primer;
o Kate Arding, Cheesemonger and co-founder of Culture, the premier cheese magazine (and one of my favorite magazines);
o Janet Fletcher, Food writer and author of 18 books on food and wine including The Niman Ranch Cookbook, The Cheese Course, and the Four Seasons Pasta;
o Marc Druart, Master Cheesemaker at the Vermont Institute for Artisan Cheese;

“Vermont’s artisan food industry has become one of the most well-established and highly recognized in the country,” said Allison Hooper, co-owner of Vermont Butter & Cheese Company. “The Festival allows us to showcase some of Vermont’s best products, and judging by last year’s record attendance, there is definitely a growing interest in this type of hand-crafted and locally produced food.”

"Many of the cheesemakers and other artisan food producers are running small operations,” said Laini Fondiller, President of the Vermont Cheese Council. “This Festival provides them with a unique chance to reach consumers from across the country, helping to increase recognition of their products and grow their businesses.”

Tickets are only $30 per person, and you won't leave the festival hungry with all of the free food samples available. Though the website does not mention it , you do have to buy tickets for the wine/beer tastings. I believe though it was only $5 for 16 tickets, each good for a 1/2 ounce pour. Pursuant to Vermont law, you cannot be provided more than 8 ounces of wine and beer at a tasting.

They only sell a limited amount of event tickets so I highly recommend you buy them as early as possible. I know that last year they sold out weeks prior to the event so don't wait for the last minute. I will be attending the event again this year and hope to see some of my readers there.

You can easily make a weekend out of this event, getting a hotel room for Saturday night. Then, just leave early Saturday morning and take a leisurely journey through Vermont. There are plenty of excellent foodie stops on route, and you can check my blog for suggestions.

Boyden Valley Winery

Prior to attending the Boston Wine Expo, I knew that one of the booths I had to visit belonged to the Boyden Valley Winery, located in Vermont. Boyden was my Favorite Vermont Winery of 2009 and their Vermont Ice Red was on my list of 2009 Top Ten Wines Over $50.

I wanted another taste of their Vermont Ice Red, as well as to see what else they might be pouring. Besides enjoying once again the Ice Red, I also got to taste their Vermont Ice Cider and new Vermont Ice Apple Creme.

Their Vermont Ice Cider is made from only Vermont grown apples, including Northern Spy, Macintosh, and Empire. It actually takes over 400 gallons of cider to make one 60 gallon barrel of ice cider. The ice cider is fermented in stainless steel, aged in French oak for about six months and has an alcohol content of about 12%. The ice cider is sweet, though not cloyingly so, and has a prominent crisp, apple flavor. It is a very pleasant drink, just right for a New England winter day, and would also pair well with cheese as well as some fruit-based desserts, including apple pie.

The Vermont Ice Apple Creme was a surprising delight. It is made from Vermont Ice Cider, apple brandy and cream. It also has a higher alcohol content at 15%, though you would not notice that in the taste. It is lighter and more delicate than other cream liqueurs, reminding me a bit of a thinner version of egg nog, but with apple flavors. The creaminess combined well with the apple flavors, and the sweetness was once again under control, and did not overwhelm. Though it can be enjoyed on its own, I think it might also make for an interesting sauce, maybe drizzled over ice cream or an apple pie.

Once again, Boyden Valley Winery has impressed me. I really like the fact they grow their own grapes, and use local Vermont apples. You should give their wines a try, or even visit their winery. I may try to visit there in the spring.

2009: Top Ten Wines Over $50

Welcome to my third, and last, Top Ten Wine List. I have already posted my Top Ten Wines Under $15 and Top Ten Wines Over $15. It is now time for my Top Ten Wines Over $50.

Like the prior lists, it includes wines that during the past year I have both enjoyed very much and which I found to be particularly compelling for various reasons. They stand out for some particular reason above the other wines I tasted this past year. Each wine on this list is linked to my more detailed prior review.

The wines are not listed in any particular order and all are definitely worth your consideration. These are not every day wines, but those worth a splurge, those for special celebrations. These are intriguing wines for wine lovers who want to amaze their palates. Please note that the actual price of the wine may vary in your area.

1. 2006 Margalit Special Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Israel ($90)
An exquisite and hedonistic wine which also shows that Israel can make wines comparable to high-end Bordeaux.

2. 2005 Albino Armani Casetta Vallagarina "Foja Tonda", Italy ($56)
Made from the rare Casetta grape, this reminded me of a fine Burgundian Pinot Noir.

3. 2005 Col Solare, Washington ($59.99)
An amazing Cabernet which is more French than California in style. Silk smooth with lots of complexity.

4. 1964 Gonzalez Byass Vintage Oloroso Sherry, Spain ($95)
A rare vintage sherry, it was mellow and smooth with an intriguing blend of delicious flavors with a finish I never wanted to end.

5. 2005 Vodopivec Vitovska Classica, Italy ($64.99)
Made from a grape new to me, Vitovska, and made in an amphora, this white wine is fascinating and a wine geek's dream.

6. Boyden Valley Vermont Ice Red, Vermont ($65)
Made from Frontenac, a hybrid grape, this is an exceptional ice wine, one of the best I have tasted in a long time.

7. 1985 Antonio Cerri Boca DOC, Italy ($58)
A rare Nebbiolo wine from a tiny region of Italy, which still has plenty of life and is reminescent of a fine Burgundy.

8. 2003 Massa Vecchia Querciola, Italy ($67)
An organic Tuscan wine, a Sangiovese blend, with a sublime taste, which evolves over time.

9. Gaston Chiquet Brut Tradition, France ($53.99)
A Grower's Champagne that is predominantly Pinot Meunier, giving it a more exotic taste.

10. 2003 Sean Thackrey Andromeda, California ($80)
From one of my favorite wine makers, this is not your typical Pinot Noir, a reflection of the eccentric genius of the wine maker.

Once again, Italy dominates with four wines on this list. I don't think there is any particular reason for this except that Italy is producing many fascinating, quality wines. There are three U.S. wines yet only one is from California, and it is not your typical California wine. The other two include a local wine, from Vermont, and one from Washington.

Like my Over $15 List, this list is diverse, with Sparkling Wine, White, Red, Sherry and Dessert Wines. There are intriguing wines being produced in all varieties and styles.

If you have some of your own recommendations, please add them to the comments.

Stoneham Sun: Vermont Wines

My new column of "A Passionate Foodie" can be found in the September 16 issue of the Stoneham Sun newspaper. This is a weekly column that concentrates on reviews of local restaurants though it also sometimes touches on other food and wine topics.

The new column has been published today and will be available online soon. The new article is an overview of the Vermont wine industry, with some specific winery recommendations. Why not check out local wines from New England.

If you have any questions or comments about my column, feel free to add them here.

Drink with passion

More Vermont Wines

At the Vermont Cheesemakers Festival, and a couple other spots, I tasted wines from a number of Vermont wineries. I have already raved about the wines of Boyden Valley Winery and now it is time to highlight some of the other Vermont wines I enjoyed. I tried to concentrate on wines made from Vermont grapes, and not grapes imported from elsewhere.

Honora Winery: This winery did not have any wines available that were produced from Vermont grapes, but they are working towards that goal. Their 200 acre vineyard is located in the Green Mountains of West Halifax. The vineyards contains mostly cold-weather grapes such as LaCrescent, Frontenac, Marechal Foch and Marcette. They have also planted some Gewurtztraminer and Pinot Noir.

They are currently importing grapes from California and Washington, with plans to import from other wine regions as well. Their 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon ($11.99), made from California grapes, was a pleasant, easy drinking wine with some nice, red fruit flavors and a touch of spice.

Lincoln Peak Vineyard: This winery only makes wines from grapes grown in Vermont, on their small, twelve acre vineyard, located in New Haven. They grow about twenty different grapes, including Frontenac, Marquette, St. Croix, LaCrescent, Swenson White, and Prairie Star.

I really enjoyed two of their wines. First, the 2008 Starlight ($11.99), was a rose made from Sabrevois and St. Croix grapes. It had a nice strawberry smell and a pale pink color. It was dry, more like an Old World rose, with subtle red fruit flavors. A pleasant wine, perfect for summer. The second was the 2008 Black Willow ($14.99), a white wine made from Louise Swenson and Frontenac Gris grapes. This was a very aromatic wine, with alluring floral and perfume notes. On the palate, it was dry and crisp with floral tastes and subtle fruit flavors. This is a winery you should check out if you visit Vermont.

Charlotte Village Winery: The grapes for the wines produced by this winery come from the Lodi region of California.

East Shore Vineyard: This winery is located in Grand Isle, overlooking Lake Champlain. They have about five acres of grape vineyards, and with plans to double their size. They grow cold-weather grapes such as LaCrescent, Frontenac, Marquette, Louise Swenson and Prairie Star. But the only wines they currently have available, a Traminette and Cabernet Franc, are made from grapes of the Finger Lakes region of New York. Wines made from their own grapes will be released in the near future.

Eden Ice Cider Company: This company, located in West Charleston, was formed in 2007 by Albert and Eleanor Leger. They just produce apple ice cider, made from traditional and heirloom varieties of apples in Vermont. The cider is made from 100% apple, without any added sugar or flavorings. About 50% of the apples used are cider apples rather than dessert ones, giving more tartness to the cider. It takes over 8 pounds of apples to make a 375ml ($25) bottle.

Currently, they just sell the Calville Blend, which is made from apples including, MacIntosh, Empire, Russets, Calville Blanc and Ashmead's Kernel. It has an alcohol content of 10% and 15% residual sugar. The cider is not overly sweet, and does have a rich apple flavor with bits of honey and almost caramel notes. I enjoyed it though it was not impressive. I am curious though about their new product, which should be released in November, called Northern Spy. This will be a "single-varietal ice cider" which will be aged in French oak. Northern Spy is an "antique variety of apple that was one of the three most popular in America at the end of the 19th century. It has a sweetly tart flavor that is superbly enhanced by the oak."

Neshobe River Winery: This is a winery with attitide, located in Brandon. They have a small vineyard and also import grapes from California and the Finger Lakes. Currently, they do not sell any wines made just with Vermont grapes. Their 2007 Purple Haze ($15-a tribute to Jimi Hendrix) is made with Vermont grown Frontenac, but also Merlot and Cabernet Franc which is grown elsewhere.

Snow Farm Winery: After breakfast at the Farmer's Diner, I stopped at the shops of the Quechee Gorge Village which had a tasting table for the wines of Snow Farm. I was most impressed with their dessert wines. I did enjoy their 2008 American Traminette ($17.95) but felt it was too pricey for its quality. The 2007 Estate Vignoles ($25/375ml) is a late harvest dessert wine with a complex melange of flavors, including apricot, orange, honey and almond. Plus, it was not overly sweet. The 2007 Estate Vidal Ice Wine ($45/375ml) is sweeter, though a bit more complex and with a lengthy finish. Though the ice wine is the better wine, I think the Vignoles is a better value.

Shelburne Vineyard: I actually visit this winery and the tasting room was packed on the day I visited. The winery, located in Shelburne, was established in 1998. They have three vineyards, including one which is certified organic, and they grow grapes including Cayuga, LaCrescent, Louise Swenson, Marquette, St Croix, Riesling, Traminette, Vidal, Vignoles, and Zweigelt.

They also use grapes grown in New York and Quebec. Several of their white wines use Chardonnay, which is grown elsewhere. Interestingly, they have two wines, the Whimsey Meadow Rose and MuMondo, which use a blend of grapes from Vermont, New York and Quebec, all in the same wine. Their wines were generally good, though I was hoping for more wines produced just from Vermont grapes.

Vermont: Boyden Valley Winery

Of all the wineries I checked out at the Vermont Cheesemakers Festival, one stood out above the others and impressed me, Boyden Valley Winery. First, they had some delicious wines, made from grapes grown in Vermont. Second, I also got to speak with Linda Boyden, who owns the winery with her husband, Dave. Linda evidenced much passion about wine and that appealed to me as well.

The Boyden Farm is located in the Lamoille River Valley and has been family owned for four generations. The winery is inside a restored 1825 carriage barn and their vineyard has about 8000 grapevines. You can even visit and take a tour of their winery. They produce fruit wines, grape wines, dessert wines, specialty wines and hard ciders. Their aim is to produce European-style wines.

I primarily tasted their grape wines, produced from hybrids, and they all were good. And one was even exceptional.

The 2007 Seyval Blanc ($14.99) had an enticing citrus nose. On the palate, it was very crisp with flavors of grapefruit, melon and peach as well as mineral notes. The finish was moderately long and pleasantly satisfying. It had character, elevating it above a simple wine, and should appeal to almost any lover of white wines. An excellent summer wine as well as a good wine with food.

The 2007 Big Barn Red ($16.99) is supposed to be a "bold, heavy, dry Bordeaux style red wine" made from Frontenac grapes. Many people may not be familiar with Frontenac but based on the two examples I tasted, it is a grape I think deserves more recognition.

Frontenac was created by the University of Minnesota, a hybrid of Vitis riparia 89 and the French hybrid Landot 4511. It was only released in 1996 but has already become quite popular, and is even the most commonly planted grape in Minnesota. The grape does well under cold temperatures, is very disease resistant and produces dark, highly acidic, high sugar berries. Wines made from Frontenac commonly show cherry and other red fruit flavors. Frotenac has spread to many northern states, as well as Canada.

The Big Barn Red reminded me more of an Old World wine, though I did not find it either bold or heavy. I felt that it was more medium bodied, with smooth tastes of cherry, raspberry and plum. There were mild spicy elements through the taste. The tannins were more moderate and it had a fairly long finish. It was an appealing wine, again a wine with character, elevating it above the ordinary. This would make more an excellent BBQ wine, or something with everything from pizza to pasta.

The most impressive of all the wines from Vermont I tasted was their Vermont Ice Red ($65). It is probably the most expensive Vermont wine as well, but I have to say it is well worth its high price. First, this is an actual ice wine. The grapes are left on the vine, being harvested once the grapes are frozen, many ripe with botrytis. Numerous grapes are lost as well, and yields are very low. Only about three hundred bottles were produced. Second, the wine is made from Frontenac and thus is a red ice wine. This ice wine contains 15% residual sugar, has an alcohol content of 15%, and is aged in Tonnelier French oak for six months.

On the nose, there are alluring notes of ripe plum, blueberry and black cherry. When I tasted it, I was expecting a sweeter wine, something similar to many other ice wines I have previously tasted. Yet I was pleasantly surprised when it was far less sweet than expected. This is largely due to the greater acidity from the Frontenac. The wine had a complex melange of flavors, including ripe plum, black cherry, vanilla, and hints of dark spice. It had a very lengthy and appealing finish. Overall, it was very smooth and complex, its mild sweetness adding to its appeal. The taste of the grapes really shines through rather than just finding a cloying sweetness. This had to be one of the best ice wines I have ever tasted and I would highly recommend it.

If you want to try the best of Vermont wines, then you should check out the wines of Boyden Valley Winery or even visit their winery. I will keep an eye on this winery as I feel they have a very bright future ahead of them.

Vermont Wineries

Next year, the Vermont wine industry will celebrate their 25th anniversary. The first licensed winery in the state was the North River Winery but they did not make wine from grapes, just assorted fruits and especially apples. It was not until 1997 that the first commericial winery that used grapes was established, Snow Farm Vineyards. Several other wineries also then sprouted up, producing wine from grapes.

Currently, there are at least seventeen wineries in Vermont, producing over 100 types of wine, though only around seven wineries use grapes. Apples still remain the most commonly used fruit, though the use of grapes is spreading. Only about 150 acres of farmland are used for grape growing, and winery production remains small, from about 300-5000 cases each year. The wineries also produce honey-based meads, dessert wines and ice wines.

Some of the wineries are importing their grapes, from places such as New York and Canada. As the grape growing industry is still relatively young, some of the wineries are waiting for their grapes to develop. Others have been using locally planted hybrid grapes, as well as a few other grapes, which are more resistant to the colder temperatures of Vermont. Some of the most commonly used grapes in Vermont include Cayuga, Frontenac, Frontenac Gris, LaCrescent, Marquette, Riesling, St. Croix and Traminette.

The Vermont Grape and Wine Council was established in 2007 to "to help raise awareness, eliminate red tape, and lead the state to provide money for marketing for what they see as one of its little-known agricultural products." You can check out their website for a little more information about Vermont wines, though content is lean. They definitely could better use their website to promote Vermont wines. But they are supportive of special events to showcase and promote Vermont wines.

Vermont state laws are still adjusting to the realities of wineries and wine tasting. For example, when I attended the Vermont Cheesemakers Festival, you were limited as to how much wine and beer you could taste. I was informed that pursuant to Vermont law, you could not be provided more than 8 ounces of wine and beer at a tasting. So, at the festival, you received 16 tickets, each for a 1/2 ounce pour. It did not matter if you spit or not, you could not try any more wine. That certainly is not the case in many other states. At Massachusetts tastings, you can sometimes taste more than 100 wines (though you should be spitting then!).

In May 2009, a new law was enacted in Vermont which allows "..wineries and distilleries to sell their products on site. Wineries, which already were permitted to offer tastings and sell bottles, can now sell glasses of wine, too. Distilleries, which could do neither, can now offer tastings and sell bottles. The new law also lets wineries sell and offer tastings of other manufacturers' wines, rent their sites for events such as weddings, and produce and sell fortified wines such as ports." This should be a boon to the wineries and distilleries and hopefully will better promote their products.

Here is a partial listing of Vermont wineries, mainly those with websites:

Artesano Mead
Boyden Valley Winery
Charlotte Village Winery
East Shore Vineyard
Eden Ice Cider Company
Fresh Tracks Farm Vineyard & Winery
Galloping Hill Farm & Vineyard
Grand View Winery
Honora Winery
Lincoln Peak Vineyard
Neshobe River Winery
North River Winery
Ottauquechee Valley Winery
Putney Mountain Winery
Shelburne Vineyard
Snow Farm Vineyard

At the Vermont Cheesemakers Festival, I had the opportunity to sample wines from a number of these wineries. I will go into more specific details in later posts but will provide a few generalities now. Please remember that these opinions are primarily based on this limited tasting, though I did visit two other winery tasting rooms outside of the festival.

First, as it is still a relatively new industry, there is much room for growth and experience. The wines should get better and better each year. I tasted a number of good wines, but few that really impressed me. They do show potential. Second, the hybrid grapes seemed to produce the best of their wines. Maybe Massachusetts could consider that and plant more hybrids. Third, the wine makers were generally a passionate bunch, eager to share the fruits of their labor and love. That is inspiring and hopeful for the future of their wine industry.

If you visit Vermont, consider stopping by some of these wineries for a tasting. Or if you don't have time for that, just stop at any of stores that sell wine as Vermont wine appears readily available at many of those places. Take a chance and try a Vermont wine. In the near future, I will give you some specific recommendations too.