Cockburn's Port: The Largest Port Lodge In Vila Nova de Gaia

On my first day in Portugal, we spent some time walking around the city of Porto, seeing some of the historic sites, Above, you can see the Ponte Dom Luíz, a a double-deck metal arch bridge, built in 1886, that spans the Douro River. The bridge joins the cities of Porto and Vila Nova de Gaia, and we walked down part of the upper deck and later also traveled to Vila Nova de Gaia, to visit the lodge of Cockburn's Port.

Vila Nova de Gaia is home to numerous Port Wine lodges, where Port is generally aged and stored. These are not commonly referred to as cellars for a number of reasons. First, the term "lodge" is derived from the Portuguese word "loja" meaning a shop or store. Second, the Portuguese often refer to these places as armazém, which basically translates as "warehouse" or "storehouse." Third, Port is often aged above ground.

What a precarious location for this church. Let's hope it doesn't fall into the Douro.

Due to the extreme heat of the Douro during the summer, most wineries felt that area wasn't conducive to the proper maturation of their wines. As such, they decided to ship their wines down to Vila Nova de Gaia for maturation, where the temperatures were cooler and more consistent throughout the year.

Down a narrow street in Vila Nova de Gaia, we stopped at Cockburn's Port for a tour, joining a public English-language group, and tasting. This visit was a change from our scheduled itinerary and coincidentally, I'd recently reviewed one of their Ports the week before I departed for Portugal. Check my prior article, Cockburn’s​ ​Special​ ​Reserve​ Port: Break Out The Cheese, Chocolate & Twizzlers, for more background and information on this winery.

Cockburns, which is pronounced "Coe-burns" not "Cock-burns," is owned by Symington Family Estates, which also owns Graham's, Dow's and Warre's. In general, each Symington brand possesses three quintas, estates containing vineyards.

All of Cockburn's quintas are "A" rated, the top quality rating for estates.

Near the entrance to the lodge, there are some historic display cases, holding old documents that document the lengthy history of the winery. The walls also have a number of relevant quotes.

Cockburn's is allegedly the largest lodge in Vila Nova de Gaia, storing over 9 Million liters of wine, equivalent to about 12 Million bottles.

In the production of their wines, they generally use indigenous yeasts, rarely inoculating, and much of the grape crushing is done by European robot lagares (size 42). They rarely do any human foot treading, except for their Vintage Ports. Their House Style of Port was described as robust, sweet, and spicy, with deep color and deep fruit.

Cockburn's has their own cooperage, where they make and repair barrels, and they currently possess over 6,000 barrels, of French, U.S. and Portuguese oak. The average age of their barrels is 60-70 years with their oldest barrel, still in use, being from 1900. Most of the barrels are 600-650 liters, with some larger vats as well, such as 30,000 liter barrels used for their Ruby Port. If a barrel is damaged, they will replace the staves with seasoned, older staves.

I was informed that even though 2018 was a challenging vintage, due to rain, hail and extreme heat, it still might be the best vintage of the century, better even than 2011. I'll note that this was contrary to what I heard from other wineries in the Douro region.

In one part of their cellars, you could see wines from the 19th century, as far back as 1868.

We then did a tasting of three Ports, including the Special Reserve Port. The 2013 Cockburn's Late Bottled Vintage was intense, with bold flavors of ripe plums and black fruit, mild spices and a balanced sweetness. It was smooth and easy to drink, with a lengthy, pleasing finish.

The Cockburn's 10 Year Old Tawny Port possessed a lighter, more brownish color, with a delightful aroma and an excellent blend of flavors, including caramel, nuts, spicy notes, and dried fruits. It was silky and a bit sweeter than the LBV, but still nicely balanced and the fortification was well integrated. This is a fine example of a 10 Year Old, and highly recommended.

I'll also mention that I got some dark chocolate to pair with these Ports, and everyone at my table thought the Ports shined even better with some chocolate. And I'm sure they will share chocolate and Port with their family and friends in the future.

Though it was interesting to visit this lodge, our guide could have been better, as he spoke much too fast and for too long at any one time, making it more difficult to ask questions as you didn't want to interrupt him mid-stream. He was good about answering questions once he finished talking, but you might forget your question while you waited for him to finish his spiel.

If you are a Port lover, you really need to visit the lodges of Vila Nova de Gaia . It is an enlightening experience, and you'll better understand how this compelling wine is created.

Caves da Murganheira: Blue Granite Caves & Sparkling Wines

If you love Sparkling Wine, if Bubbly excites your palate, then you need to seek out Caves da Murganheira, a producer of Espumante, compelling Portuguese Sparkling Wine. Until my recent trip to Portugal, I was unfamiliar with this winery and now I hope to find their wines in the U.S.

Murganheira is located in the Varosa Valley, in the Távora-Varosa DOP, at the northwestern section of the Beiras region and bordering the Douro. The Távora-Varosa DOP is an excellent region for grapes that will produce sparkling wines and it actually was the first Portuguese region, in 1989, to be demarcated for sparkling wines. It is certainly a beautiful region, with plenty of lush vegetation, hills, and stunning landscapes.

The winery was established in 1964 by Acácio da Fonseca Laranjo, who chose to name the winery after the village, Murganheira, where he grew up. This village is located only a short distance from the current site of the winery. Initially, the winery made only sparkling wine but in the 1970s, they expanded production to include still wines as well. Upon his death, his family sold the winery to several men, including oenologist Orlando Lourenço.

Currently, Murganheira owns 30 hectares of vineyards and supervises over 1,000 hectares from which they purchase grapes. Some of the grapes they grow and purchase include Malvasia Fino, Gouveio Real, Cerceal, Chardonnay, Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Tinga Roriz, and Pinot Noir. What helps to separate this region from the Douro is their soil type which is granite rather than the schist of the Douro. This year, their harvest ran from September 2 to October 2, and it was a challenging vintage with plenty of rain and hail during the Spring.

Their press room is only used for one month of the year, during the harvest, and they possess three pneumatic presses. The first pressing produces the juice for their top wines and Brut Espumante. The juice from the second pressing usually goes to produce their half-dry and sweet wines. 95% of their production is Sparkling Wine and only 5% are Still Wines. Their Sparkling Wine is produced by the Méthode Traditionelle, the same method used to make Champagne, where secondary fermentation occurs in the bottle.

The annual production at Murganheira is approximately 1 million bottles per year, only about 83,000 cases. Besides 750ml and Magnums, they also produce 3, 6 and 9 liter bottles. They export about 20% of production, and their export markets include Russia and the U.S. Of their Sparkling Wines, three are non-dosage wines, and they also use French oak for the aging of some of their wines.

One of the most stunning aspects of my visit to Murganheira was seeing their blue granite "caves," the cellars where they age their wines. The huge stacks of bottles amidst the dark granite walls made for an impressive vision. The original owner, Acácio, with advice from a man from the Champagne region, created the caves over a span of years, dynamiting into the blue granite. The caves remain at a year-round, constant temperature of about 54 degrees Fahrenheit. These voluminous caves store about three million bottles of wine, the oldest reaching back to 1991. Their Sparkling Wines usually spend at least 3 years and 8 months in these caves before release. Plus, aesthetically, the caves and all of those bottles are compelling.

The first Sparkling Wine we tasted was the 2009 Murganheira Millesime Bruto Espumante (16-17 Euros), a blend of 50% Chardonnay and 50% Pinot Noir. With a fine golden color and plenty of tiny bubbles, the aroma was subtle with hints of apple and vanilla. On the palate, it was crisp and dry, with a pleasing mousse, and fine green apple flavors, a hint of toast, and a savoriness on the finish. A satisfying complexity, a lengthy finish, and just plain delicious. A good value wine based on its quality and complexity.

I was especially taken by the 2009 Murganheira Touriga Nacional Bruto Blanc de Noirs Espumante (13-14 Euros), which is made from 100% Touriga Nacional. Almost a Rosé in color, and with tiny bubbles, there were mild red fruit notes on the aroma. As soon as I tasted a sip, bright berry flavors burst on my tongue, such a pleasurable taste and sensation. Dry and crisp, once I got past the berries, there were subtle notes of almond and plum, as well as a lingering finish. If I could have easily transported it home, I would have bought a case of this bubbly. Highly recommended, especially at this price.

The 2013 Murganheira Tinto Bruto (8.5 Euros) is a blend of Touriga Nacional and Tinta Roriz. It had a dark, almost purple color, with a pleasing aroma of black fruit with a hint of spice. On the palate, it was dry, with good acidity, rich black fruit flavors, subtle spice notes, and a moderately long finish. Not as complex as the others but more an easy drinking sparkling wine.

I decided to purchase a bottle of the 2013 Czar Grand Cuvee Rosé ($22 Euros), even though I didn't get a chance to taste it. First, I love Sparkling Rosé so I was intrigued to taste their version. Second, after experiencing the quality and deliciousness of their other Sparkling Wines, I felt secure that they would produce an excellent Sparkling Rosé too. The wine is made from 100% Pinot Noir, has a 14% ABV. and acquired its name Czar, as a recognition of their exports to Russia.

Over this past weekend, I opened this bottle for a celebration, and wish I'd bought more of it. With a deep and bright pink color, this Sparkling Rosé was crisp, dry and complex, with fresh red fruit flavors and a more savory, almost slightly bitter, finish. It was a wine to slowly sip, enjoying the subtle new flavors you found with each taste. A high quality Sparkling Wine, this also receives my hearty recommendation.

Murganheira is producing quality Sparkling Wines and I strongly recommend that you seek them out and enjoy some Portuguese bubbly. Locally, I rarely see Portuguese Sparkling Wine and I hope that will change soon. The Murganheira Touriga Nacional Bruto was more unique and the Sparkling Rosé  was killer. And if you visit Portugal, you should make try to visit Caves da Murganheira.

Rant: Two Portuguese Wineries, Two Opposing Guides

I've visited numerous wineries, in the U.S., Canada, Europe and South America, and the personality and presentation of the winery representative/guide has a significant effect on how one views that winery. You want a guide who has passion and enthusiasm, who is knowledgeable and personable. Otherwise, you might be disinterested in the winery, maybe even irritated that you're wasting your time. When I recently traveled to Portugal, this issue became front and center in my mind again as I witnessed two dramatically different guide styles.

In general, the guides (for wineries, historical sites, museums, et.c) on my tour of Porto and the Douro were very good, evidencing plenty of passion, enthusiasm, knowledge and personality. As such, my group reacted positively to them, paying attention to what they said, soaking in all of the provided information, and enjoying themselves. These were the types of guides you would recommend to your friends.

One stellar example was Paula Pereira, who works in marketing & public relations for Quinta de Covela. From the opening moments of meeting her, you couldn't help but be enamored with her bubbly enthusiasm, her sincere and infectious passion for Covela. As she led us through a wine tasting, her passion never lagged and she presented us with plenty of information about the estate, the region and the wines. It became a fully enjoyable and informative tour, and we could have easily remained there for hours chatting with Paula. My tour companions all commented on Paula's compelling personality and she was the perfect advocate for Covela.

On the other hand, we visited one of the larger Port lodges and our guide was far from compelling. Though he was certainly knowledge, he seemed to lack enthusiasm and passion. When he spoke, it was rapid-fire and seemed to go on and on, not giving anyone a break to ask questions. And by the time he did stop speaking, you almost felt too exhausted to ask questions. It seemed like it was a chore for him, one he wanted to end as quickly as possible. He wasn't the type of guide who injected passion into the tour attendees, some who seemed quite bored. I was disappointed in this tour, primarily because of the deficiencies of the guide.

In the future, when I look back to my many fond memories of Portugal, I'll definitely think of Paula Pereira and Covela, and I'll likely give little thought to the Port lodge. I strongly suspect my fellow travel companions feel the same way. Wineries, and others, certainly need to carefully consider the nature of their guides, and seek those with great passion and enthusiasm. Those are the guides who will make the greatest impacts on your visitors. Those are the guides who will lead to many recommendations as well as return visitors.

Rant: Buying Wine On Vacation

Spring is in the air, and though hopefully the weather will continue to improve, there still is a chance of snow during the next month or so. However, this is also the time when people begin considering their plans for a summer vacation, from a simple weekend getaway to a longer two week trip. You might even be planning multiple vacations, to different destinations.

I strongly recommend that you include wine into your plans, such as visiting a winery or sampling different wines at dinner. There are wineries in all fifty states, and the quality of that wines continues to improve. There are approximately 10,000 wine producers across the U.S. You probably didn't know that Massachusetts alone has about 67 wine producers. Why not include a winery visit wherever you travel? If you travel internationally, you'll likely find plenty of wineries too in many different countries.

Sipping a glass of wine, while sitting outside and viewing the vineyards where the grapes came from, can be a superb experience. The same can be said for drinking wine with the wine maker, or sipping some while deep within a wine cellar, surrounded by barrels of aging wine. These are special experiences which you will long treasure, and it might cause you to purchase wines to take home with you. I encourage you to buy wine on vacation, however I must provide a caveat, a warning that you might not otherwise hear.

If you find an impressive wine on your vacation, a wine that thrills your senses, which makes everything seem better, you need to understand that it might not taste the same when you get it home. It may not be as impressive or taste as good. Yes, it will be the same wine that you drank on vacation, but the taste may differ. Many people have eventually come to this truth, though they often don't fully understand the reason behind the transformation.

It is actually simple. Your experience of a wine depends in large part on the circumstances surrounding your tasting of that wine. When you are on vacation, awed by your surroundings, thrilled by new experiences, wine may tend to taste better. You are already in a great mood, with a thrilling ambiance, so you elevate all of the elements of that experience, including the wine. Wine also tastes better with the presence of good friends, or even new acquaintances who assist in making your trip even better. You might be at dinner, sitting on a patio overlooking majestic mountains, and your wine might taste wonderful because you love the setting so much. Conversely, a bad vacation experience can make wine taste worse.

So, if you buy wine while on vacation and bring it home, you will have a different set of circumstances when you eventually drink it, which will affect your perceived taste of that wine. That doesn't mean you shouldn't buy wine on vacation. You just need to understand how your surroundings affect the taste of your wine, and maybe lower your expectations of how that wine might taste at home. It will likely still taste delicious, but it may not seem as transcendent as it did on vacation. Or you can provide a better set of circumstances when you finally drink that wine at home, trying to elevate everything. For example, share the bottle with some great friends, and reminisce about your vacation experience.

Gonzalez Byass La Copa Vermouth: From Sherry With Love

In a number of respects, Vermouth is the Rodney Dangerfield of the wine world, not getting sufficient respect. Many people don't even realize that it's a wine, thinking it's only a minor ingredient in cocktails. That needs to be changed and Vermouth needs to be respected and loved for all that it can offer.

As I've said before, "It's a wine with a fascinating history that extends back thousands of years...It can be delicious and complex, intriguing and diverse, and offers a template upon which a producer can put their individual stamp." Vermouth is a fortified and aromatized wine, which works well in cocktails but also can be enjoyed on its own, maybe with a ice cube or two. The intriguing complexity of some Vermouth makes it a compelling wine on its own. Fortunately, there are numerous producers taking Vermouth seriously, creating some unique and fascinating Vermouths, from a wide range of base wines and botanicals.

Gonzalez Byass, which was founded in 1835, is a Sherry producer, one I visited back in 2010, and they export a wide range of delicious Sherries. Back in the 19th century, they also made Red Vermouth, and two years ago they started to produce it once again, using the original recipe as their foundation. I received a media sample of this new product, the Gonzalez Byass La Copa Vermouth, and it is impressive and complex, delicious and versatile. This is a Vermouth for Sherry lovers, wine lovers and cocktail lovers, earning my highest recommendation.

The specific recipe for their Vermouth is considered proprietary, so they won't provide it, except that is not fully the case. Each year, the González Byass Foundation celebrates International Archives Day, which is held annually on June 9, by opening up their Historical Archives to the public. On this day, they have previously displayed the original recipe for their Vermouth, from 1896, and might do so again at future International Archives Days. They also have provided some basic information about the formula, enough to be intriguing.

The La Copa Vermouth is a blend of 75% Oloroso Sherry and 25% Pedro Ximinez Sherry, both from soleras that are approximately eight years old. It is rare to find any Vermouth made from Sherry, and we certainly need more such Vermouths. Some of the botanicals that are blended into the Vermouth include wormwood, angelica, savory, clove, orange peel, nutmeg, quinine, and cinnamon. The name, "La Copa," derives from the name of the branding iron used on the cattle and horses of the ranch of Marqués de Torresoto, the son of the bodegas’s founder Manuel Maria González. The label for the La Copa is also based on the original 19th century label for their Vermouth.

Relaunched in June 2016, La Copa Vermouth ($25) is a taste of history but one which also presents well in the present. On the nose, its complexity is first experienced, a wonderful melange of spices, salted nuts, and citrus notes. It's an alluring nose, one that will entice you to drink, to hopefully realize the vast promises of those aromas. On the palate, you're not disappointed in the least, intrigued by its complexity, balance and elegance. There is a superb blend of spices and herbs, with nuts, caramel, a touch of plum, candied orange and more. The Sherry influence is prominent and well integrated. There is balanced sweetness with hints of bitterness, exactly what you want from a fine vermouth. It's smooth with a lengthy, satisfying finish and is wonderful on its own, though it also does great in a Manhattan.

It is the use of the Sherry which elevates the quality of this Spanish Vermouth and I would love to see other Vermouths using Sherry as the base. Gonzalez Byass is producing a compelling wine, and I strongly recommend that all wine lovers sample this intriguing Vermouth. Consume it on its own, reveling in its complexity, or use it in your favorite cocktail.

Sherry Week Events at Taberna de Haro & Wine Press

Sherry, that delicious and fascinating fortified wine from the Jerez region of Spain, has a special place in my heart. I've written over 40 articles that touch on Sherry, most collected in All About Sherry, including a five-part history of Sherry, food pairings (including Thanksgiving), Aged Sherry, reviews, and more. Sherry isn't appreciated sufficiently in the U.S., and you still can find some amazing values for aged Sherry. You should explore Sherry and learn to understand its nature and allure.

Next week, from November 6-12, you'll have that opportunity as it is International Sherry Week. Special Sherry events are being held all across the world and there are two local spots, both in Brookline, which are hosting events. I strongly encourage you to attend at least one Sherry event, and hope that you might attend even more than one.

The Wine Press, located at 1024 Beacon Street, Brookline, will host a Sherry seminar with Gonzalez Byass, a 5th generation family winery that was founded in 1835. Back in 2010, I visited Gonzalez Byass, and got to experience a number of their delicious and impressive Sherries. The winery also has many interesting stories to tell so attending this seminar should be a great time.

The seminar will give you a history of their winery, as well as the Jerez region, plus will teach you all about Sherry.  This will be a classroom setting with a guided tasting and light pairings. You might taste Fino, Manzanilla, Amontillado and Pedro Ximinez. And you'll learn how these Sherries pair with various foods.

The seminar cost $10 per person and you can purchase tickets through Eventbrite. There will be two hour-long seminars, one at 5:30pm and the other at 6:30pm. Each attendant will also receive at $10 gift card to The Wine Press, and I bet you'll want to buy some Sherry once you complete this seminar.

Note: You must be 21 years of age to attend

Unsurprisingly, Taberna de Haro, which provides great support to Sherry year-round, is hosting numerous Sherry events for International Sherry Week. Taberna de Haro has the largest Sherry selection in the Boston area and it is always a pleasure to see what new Sherries they have to offer. And next week, their passion for Sherry will be even more evident.

First, all week long they will have: 
--Additional craft Sherry cocktails, beyond the usual deep selection
--Sherry Pairings both by the glass and by the bottle
--Sherry Flights
--And 20% off full-bottles of Sherry

Second, on Monday, November 6, they will host Industry Night Party, where you can bring a bottle of sherry to Taberna (optional) to enjoy with friends and colleagues. Tapas and lots more sherry will be available, as well the week’s special Sherry Cocktails and Flights.

Third, on Tuesday, November 7, they will host a tasting, “I’ll Make You a Sherry Lover in 6 Glasses or Less.” For those who think sherry is all sweet and cheap or just not their cup of tea, Chef Deborah Hansen believes she can change your mind. She'll serve 6 perfectly approachable sherries paired with traditional tapas.
The cost is $60 per person (plus tax and gratuity) and please call 617-277-8272, in the evening, to pre-pay and reserve.

Fourth, on Wednesday, November 8, they will offer a tasting, “So You Think You Might Be Obsessed with Sherry. This will be a "support group" and provocative tasting to fuel your obsession.  Deborah will 6 high-end sherries with traditional and creative tapas.
The cost is $75 per person (plus tax and gratuity) and please call 617-277-8272, in the evening, to pre-pay and reserve.

Fifth, on Thursday, November 9, they will pair Manzanillas and Oysters. You will get 6 complimentary oysters with every bottle of Manzanilla Sherry you purchase. Experience the ocean in a whole new way.

Sixth, on Friday, November 10, and Saturday, November 11, there will be a Sherry Flow-Through.
Drink various sherries all through your meal - like they do in Jerez - and get a beautiful sherry poster.

Drink More Sherry!

Rant: TasteCamp, Summer Travel & Local Beverages

As you start to plan your summer travel, deciding which places to visit, please give strong consideration to visiting local wineries, distilleries, breweries, cideries and meaderies. Frankly, many people don't realize the number of these alcohol producers even in their own state. For example, as of 2015 in Massachusetts, there were approximately 55 licensed-farm wineries, 15 hard-cider producers, over 60 breweries, and about 20 distilleries.

Did you realize Massachusetts has that many producers? How many of those producers have you visited? How many of those producers have you tasted their products?

There are now wineries in all fifty states, and the vast majority also have numerous distilleries, breweries, cideries and meaderies. It is a great time for those who enjoy alcoholic beverages, so much new to explore and taste. No matter where you travel, you'll find some interesting producers you can visit, sampling their drinks. On your vacation, spend time visiting historical sites, enjoying the landscape, and dining out. However, leave yourself a little time to explore these exciting, local produced beverages.

I know that some people worry that these producers, especially the wineries, might not be very good, that they make inferior beverages. However, I think that if you explore deeper, if you sample from a number of these producers, you might be very surprised at the quality you can find. And every year, producers all across the country up their game, creating even better beverages than prior years. Don't prejudge these producers but approach them with an open mind, and let your palate judge the quality of their drinks.

Yesterday, I returned from a weekend visit to Maryland where I, and about 30 others, attended TasteCamp 2017. The concept of TasteCamp was created by Lenn Thompson, of the The Cork Report, back in 2009, and it consists of a weekend immersion into a lesser known wine region, outside of the big wine states like California, Washington and Oregon. We have previously visited places including Long Island, the Finger Lakes, Quebec, Virginia, Niagara and Vermont. Attendees come from both the U.S. and Canada, and though many of the attendees are from the East Coast, some attendees come from as far as California.

At TasteCamp, attendees visit a variety of producers, tour vineyards, taste dozens of wines, dine on local foods and holds an exciting BYOB dinner. The basic concept has evolved over time so that it is no longer limited to wine, now also including beers, ciders, meads and spirits. A key principle for TasteCamp is "drink local," consuming products that are locally produced, usually from local ingredients. There is little reason to limit ourselves to wine when local producers are making so many other interesting and tasty beverages too. This is a great example of what I meant when I wrote my prior Rant: Drink Writers, Burst Your Bubble.

Though TasteCamp usually has a few, limited sponsors, the attendees shoulder the lion's share of expenses for the trip, including their transportation, lodging and some meals. This year, we owe a debt of gratitude to Maryland Wine, Maryland Distillers Guild and Brewers Association of Maryland. With its limited size, TasteCamp is a more intimate event, allowing you to get to know everyone in the group, reconnecting with old friends and meeting new ones too. The focus of the event is on tasting, both food and drink, and there aren't any seminars or events about writing, blogging, photography, or similar activities.

I previously attended a wine conference in Maryland back in 2013, learning that Maryland wines had an image problem, including among many of its residents. I found that numerous people still didn't fully understand the quality of wines that Maryland produced. Some felt that Maryland made only sweet wines. However, I tasted a number of excellent wines, seeing the potential in Maryland and it was great to learn more about the various wineries which were seeking to produce quality wine. And this past weekend, I found that the Maryland wine industry has improved in the last four years and is providing even more fascinating and delicious wines, as well as other excellent alcoholic beverages.

Some of the highlights of TasteCamp included: Wines from Old Westminster Winery, Black Ankle Vineyards, and Big Cork Vineyards; Spirits from McClintock Distilling Company and Tenth Ward Distilling Company; and Mead from Orchid Cellar Meadery. And I know I still missed tasting excellent products from some other Maryland producers. During the next few weeks, I'll be writing about my experiences, highlighting some of the best I encountered. Maryland is certainly a compelling destination for those who want to explore delicious and interesting wines, spirits, beers, and more.

TasteCamp helps to illustrate the belief that liquid wonders can be found in many local regions all across the country. In all of the regions we have explored, we have found plenty of interest and each spot would make for a compelling vacation destination. Throw away your preconceptions about the wine and drink industries in various states and be adventurous, gaining first-hand experience of what these local producers are creating. You might not like everything you find, but I'm sure you will be surprised at the quality and diversity you find, and will also locate some treasures which will delight your palate.

Be adventurous. Expand your palate and sample something new. Explore local drink producers.

Rant: Wineries, We Don't Care About Medals

Sure, all of those shiny medals and brightly colored ribbons hanging on your wine bottles look pretty but I don't care about them. And I'm not the only one. I think it's safe to say that most wine writers feel the same, that the fact your wine won a handful of silver, gold or even double gold medals is basically meaningless to us.

I attend numerous media/trade wine tastings, meeting many winery representatives, wine makers, winery owners, importers, distributors, PR reps and more. As I taste their wines, it's inevitable that a significant majority of these individuals will boast of the medals that their wines have won. That is when my eyes glaze over and my ears shut down. It's not something I'm going to write about and it's not something that matters to me in the least. It's a waste of your words.

Consumers might be interested in hearing you talk about your medals but most wine writers I've spoken to would rather not hear about them. We would rather judge the wine on its own merits, rather than caring about how well that wine did at some wine competition. In a similar respect, we don't want to hear about your wine scores either, as they too are basically useless to us.

We do want to hear about your story, about the people behind the winery. We do want the technical specifications, though some of us want more than others. We want to hear about what makes your wines unique. And we will taste your wines and decide on our own what we think about them. If any of us really wants to know about your medals and wine scores, then we will ask, but I doubt many will inquire about those.

Please also consider the fact that at many of these trade tastings, our tasting time is limited so we may not spend lots of time at any one table. As such, you need to be succinct, providing us the most valuable information in a short period of time. Don't waste that time bragging about your medals when that is the last thing we want to know. You can brag about your medals to the consumers.

Save your breath and please don't even mention your medals.

Ciders of Spain: Viuda de Angelón & Guzman Riestra

"Really, it is the Asturian cider makers who are calling the attention of Americans to your magnificent region and sidra is serving as an excellent ambassador."
--James Asbel

Besides my love for the diverse wines of Spain, from briny Manzanilla Sherry to aged Rioja, from crisp Albarino to fruity Mencia, I also enjoy their Ciders, from Asturias (which are known as Sidra) and the Basque region (which are known as Sagardoa). Cider may even have originated in Spain a few thousand years ago. Spanish ciders present their own unique flavor profiles and it's great to see more of them entering the U.S. market.

A Ciders of Spain tasting event, led by importer James Asbel, was recently held at Pemberton Farms in Cambridge, and two Sidra makers were in attendance, from Viuda de Angelón & Guzman Riestra. I've previously enjoyed Sidra from both of these producers but I wanted the opportunity to meet and speak with the Sidra makers. Please check out my two prior posts for more background and history on Ciders of Spain, James Asbel, Sidra and some specific reviews: Ciders of Spain: Asturian Cider (Part 1) and Ciders of Spain: Asturian Cider (Part 2).

Francisco Ordoñez Vigil, pictured above, is the main Sidra maker at Viuda de Angelón (the "widow of Angelon"), which was founded in 1947 by Alfredo Ordoñez Onís at the orchards of La Alameda. In 1978 the cidery was moved to La Teyera, Nava, home of the annual Asturian Cider Competition and the Museo de la Sidra de Asturias. It remains a family-owned and operated artisan cidery and they also operate a sidrería, a cider pub, in the center of Nava.

Francisco is a 3rd generation Sidra maker and acquired an oenology degree from the University of Valencia. Though he worked in the wine industry first, he eventually gravitated back to the family cidery. There isn't a school in Spain for cider making, so an oenology degree is the closest educational degree you can acquire. Francisco has been able to apply his winemaking knowledge, bringing more scientific analysis to the Sidra production. Francisco produces a wide range of Sidra, four of which are currently imported into the U.S. He stated that his biggest challenge in Sidra making is growing the apples.

The Sidra Brut Viuda de Angelón (about $16) is a Sparkling Off-Dry Cider made from 5 varieties of cider apples, though the exact proportions of each will vary some year to year. They have some of their own orchards, which are organic though not certified, and they purchase some apples from other local, organic orchards. Their orchards are quite steep so they must be do all hand harvesting, which is certainly laborious work. They also raise some livestock, including sheep and cows, which graze in the orchard.

Like all of their Sidras, the initial fermentation for the Brut occurs in an open tank and using wild yeasts. The cider will be cold shocked so some residual sugar remains within it, meaning they don't need to add additional sugar for the second fermentation, which occurs in a sealed tank. In addition, before that second fermentation, the cider is matured for about eight months in large chestnut barrels. It is cold shocked for a second time during the second fermentation so a little residual sugar, about 9 grams/liter, remains in the bottle. With a mild sweetness, this bubbly has rich apple flavors and would make a nice summer drink. There isn't much of a history of how well this Brut will age, but James believes it has a good aging potential.

The 1947 Sidra de Neuva Expresion (about $13) is a Petillant Semi-Dry Cider, produced from a blend of 14 apple varieties, all from their own orchards, with a rough breakdown of about 75% sharp, 15% bitter-sharp and the rest bitter-sweet. Fermentation occurs in an open chestnut vat, with wild yeasts, and I was quite surprised that they also allow it to mature in the open vat for about 12 months!  The vats are old, some being as much as a hundred years or more, and are quite large, about 15,000 liters. Some of the vats are stored underground while others are at ground level. The chestnut provides a touch of sweetness to the cider.

How can the cider survive for 12 months in an open vat? First, the cider actually forms a type of flor atop it, like occurs with Sherry, protecting the cider from oxygen and bacteria. In addition, as they use higher acidity apples, that is another element protecting the cider. The cider is unfiltered, unfined and doesn't undergo any cold shock. It possesses a strong, appealing apple aroma and on the palate, it presents as mostly dry and crisp, with only the slightest hint of sweetness, with a mild effervescence, enough to be a nice palate cleanser and excellent for food pairings. It has delicious apple flavors, with a lengthy pleasing finish, and was one of my Top Three Sidras of the previous tasting.

The Viuda de Angelón Sidra de Pera ($3.50/330ml) is a Sparkling Off-Dry Perry, made from several varieties of pears from their estate. Perry production might extend back to the ancient Romans and was popular in Asturias during the last couple hundred years though mostly it was made by families at home and there was little, if any, commercial production. The pear trees are wild, organic and over 70 years old. Once the pears are picked, they are first fermented in stainless steel, with wild yeasts, and then mature for about four months in chestnut vats. Then, they undergo a second fermentation in the tank.

This is an impressive Perry, with a harmonious blend of earthiness with subtle pear flavor and a mild effervescence. It is dry and refreshing, with lots of depth. It would be excellent on its own or paired with food, especially something with umami. Absolutely delicious, it was also one of my a Top Three Sidras of the previous tasting.

I had some concerns last week when I read a news article from La Sidra titled "The Spanish administration bans pear cider." The article states "So now this category, pear cider, turns to be illegal and prevents the sale of perry with its own name. In Asturies, as we said, pear cider is a traditional and historical product as apple cider, despite its production and consumption was decreaded lately. Only the cider mill Viuda de Angelón produced this product since 2011 and now it will have to stop its production and distributon of this beverage, while the shops and cider bars can still sell this."

Fortunately, I spoke with James Asbel who soothed my worries, as the La Sidra article apparently wasn't fully accurate. James stated that Spain had only banned the use of the term "sidra" in referring to a "perry." As such, it will have no impact on production and sales, and no impact on Viuda de Angelón's labeling in the U.S. Perry can certainly still be produced in Spain, just as long as you don't try to label it as a sidra. Francisco Ordoñez Vigil, of Viuda de Angelón, has indicated he might decide to change over to the use of perea, the traditional term for Perry.

Raul Riestra, pictured above, is the main Sidra maker at Guzman Riestra, which was founded back in 1906 by Robustiano Riestra and it eventually was passed on to his daughter, Etelvina Riestra. With her husband, Ricardo Riestra Hortal, they eventually implemented some modern advances. Today, the cidery is in the hands of Raul and Ruben Riestra, the great grandsons of the founder, and Raul, with a business degree, is the chief cider maker.

Raul does not have an oenology degree but has always worked at the family cidery so he has learned everything on the job. Riestra grows some of their own apples and also purchases some. About 40% of their apples are from the local area, 40% are from little further away, and about another 20% come from Normandy, France. The cidery has about 30 vats for their apples, including chestnut, stainless steel and fiberglass. When making Sidra, the same juice goes into 3-4 vats to maintain consistency and they don't fill the vats all the way, allowing room for expansion.

Like Angelón, they conduct open vat fermentations, with wild yeasts. After the October harvest, fermentation can take about six weeks, though during the colder months, fermentation takes longer, and can extend even as long as 9 months. This is not a problem, as it allows them to more evenly spread out their availability. Overall, they produce about 850,000 liters of Sidra annually. Their greatest challenge is trying to press so many apples in such a short time.

The Sidra Natural Riestra (about $9.50/700ml) is a dry, unfiltered Sidra and when you are pouring it into a glass, you hold the bottle high in the area, a practice known as escanciar, which helps to aerate the cider as well as make it fizzier. It possesses a very mild earthiness, with much more rich apple flavors and stronger tannins. It is dry with sour and bitter notes as well as good acidity. This too would be excellent with a variety of food pairings, including cheese. The U.S. imports about 50% of the total production of this Sidra.

The Guzman Riestra Sidra Brut Nature (about $16/750ml) is a sparkling dry Sidra made in the Methode Champenoise. They select 2-3 tanks specifically for this Brut, only the best of their Sidra. It is matured for about 4 months in the tank, is then filtered and fined, before receiving a dosage and undergoing a second fermentation in the bottle. It spends at least four months in the bottle, and usually longer, and is commonly released about five months after disgorgment. The U.S. imports about 30% of the total production of this Brut.

The Brut is clean and dry with moderate bubbles, a mild earthiness, a bright apple flavor, a hint of tropical fruit, and a pleasingly long finish. It has similar tannins to the other Riestra and this could stand up to stronger foods, like cured meats.

Asturian Sidra offers a compelling and more unique flavor profile, with a great sense of history and tradition. And the Sidras in this article, from Ciders of Spain, offer an excellent value as well. A number of local wine and liquor shops now stock these Sidras, and if they don't, you should ask them to carry them.

Alexander Jules: Thanksgiving & Amontillado

Did you enjoy Sherry on Thanksgiving? Since 2010, I've advised people to be more adventurous and drink Sherry on Thanksgiving because it is both delicious and pairs well with the various foods on your table. Not enough Americans drink dry Sherry, with sweet Sherries being far more prominent. However, it is the dry Sherries which pair so well with a wide range of foods. Besides giving this advice, I usually follow it as well, and this year brought an Amontillado Sherry to the Thanksgiving table.

Fortunately, I received a media sample in time for the holiday, one of the newest selections from Alexander Jules. Alexander Russan, the founder of Alexander Jules, is similar in some respects to a negociant, visiting Sherry producers and cellar owners and carefully selecting some of their barrels to create a special Sherry. I previously reviewed the first three of his Sherries, as well as provided more info about his company and you should check out my article for additional background on Alexander Jules. Those three Sherries made my 2014 list of Top Ten Wines Over $15. Last year, I reviewed his Los Abandonados 6/8 Oloroso and it made my 2015 list of Top Wines Over $50. And earlier this year, I reviewed his Fino 4/65, and I'm positive it will end up on one of my Top Wines of 2016 lists coming later this month.

The Amontillado 3/10 (about $40/500ml) is intended to be a younger Amontillado and was sourced from Bodegas Juan Piñero, located in the port city of Sanlúcar de Barrameda. Sanlúcar is an ancient city, located on the left bank of the mouth of the Guadalquivir River. Until the beginning of the 19th century, the wines of Sanlúcar were generally not considered sherries. However now, Sanlúcar is the only city in Spain which can legally produce Manzanilla sherry, and has its own Denominación de Origen, called Manzanilla de Sanlúcar de Barrameda.

Juan Piñero, who made his wealth in the construction industry, eventually decided to enter the sherry business. Around 1992, Piñero purchased an old bodega in Sanlúcar so he could produce Manzanilla. In addition, he purchased numerous barrels as well as high quality sherry. In 2000, he purchased another bodega, along with barrels of the famed Maruja Manzanilla (which were moved to their original bodega). Piñero, in 2007, bought another bodega, which included barrels of Oloroso sherry. For most of this time though, he sold his Sherry to other bodegas, including La Gitana and Argüeso, but in 2013, he finally decided to began selling his own brand, the first being Manzanilla Maruja.

Russan has worked with Piñero before in producing Sherry, and continues to do so for several reasons. First, Russan finds Piñero to be very responsible, conducting his business in a timely fashion. Second, Piñero manages the bodega in a very traditional fashion, which Russan really likes. Third, Piñero hired Ramiro Ibañez to be his consulting capataz and Russan feels he is a "genius of the Sherry Triangle." Russan stated that when he works with Ibañez, his understanding of sherry is greatly expanded. Finally, Piñero has many different styles of sherry and Russan finds good variation in the barrels, allowing Russan to create more unique sherries.

Russan's concept behind this Amontillado was to make a sherry in a similar style to his previous Amontillado. He wanted it to be "younger, yet complex and complete, still showing Manzanilla character, and softer oxidative qualities." He tasted through the scales/criaderas from the Maruja Manzanilla solera, until he found the point in development that he wanted for his new Amontillado. This Amontillado has an average age of about 18 years, though he feels he tastes younger, more like a 12-15 year old.

It was bottled with only a rough plate filter at the bodega, mainly to remove any large pieces of material that might have been in the barrels. As for food pairings, Russan suggested the Amontillado would pair well with Chinese food, Indian food (curries), Mexican food (Oaxacan cuisine—more spiced dishes), and probably even steak.

After drinking this sherry, I think Russan created exactly the type of sherry he desired, an intriguing blend that presents beautiful Amontillado notes but also hearkens to the nature of a Manzanilla. It reminded me of snacking on almonds and pecans, lightly drizzled with caramel, while sitting on the beach, with the brininess of the ocean wafting over me. It is a lighter style sherry, with a complex melange of flavors, including lots of nuttiness, mild caramel notes, a strong briny nature, subtle hints of citrus and a lengthy, pleasing finish. Everything is well balanced and harmoniousness, and it is an Amontillado which should please most anyone. I think it paired very well with the various Thanksgiving dishes and could easily see this working well with a wide variety of cuisines.

Russan has created another winner and I highly recommend you check out all of the Alexander Jules sherries.

TasteCamp Vermont: When Life Gives You Apples, Make Cider

Autumn in New England is the time for apple picking, for hot cider donuts and chilled apple cider. It is a time for home-baked apple pies, cider-braised pork, apple stuffing and so much more. With the prevalence and popularity of apples, it's easy to understand why hard cider is also quite popular in New England, and Vermont is certainly no exception.

During TasteCamp Vermont, we had the pleasure to taste a range of hard ciders, some very traditional while others were more experimental. Vermont is cutting their own unique path through the hard cider industry and are producing some fascinating and delicious ciders. No matter what type of cider you prefer, you'll likely find some in Vermont, and if you are willing to expand your palate, you'll find plenty others which should appeal to you. As a cider lover, I was impressed with Vermont's offerings, and brought a number of bottles home with me.

The hard cider industry has a long history in Vermont. Even when Prohibition was enacted in Vermont in 1852, 67 years prior to the passage of Federal Prohibition, the production of hard cider was not banned, provided no other fermentable sugars were added to it. However, you couldn't sell cider at any "...victualing house, tavern, grocery shop, or cellar, or other place of public resort.” Why was cedar allowed to remain legal? First, it was easy to make and with "...the abundance of apple trees and orchards across the state, it would have been impossible to outlaw production." Second, cider was "...an important staple of daily nutrition. Consuming water was still a dangerous gamble, and beer produced at breweries was illegal under the law." The effect of Vermont's Prohibition was to significantly increase cider consumption but it must have eventually been seen as a significant problem as they finally outlawed cider production and consumption in 1880.

(All the above quotes are from Vermont Prohibition: Teetotalers, Bootleggers & Corruption by Adam Krakowski.)

Eleanor Léger, the founder of Eden Specialty Ciders, showcased a number of her ciders, and they were very popular with the TasteCamp attendees. See my previous post Craft Cider-From Orchard To Glass for more information about Eleanor, her cidery, and reviews of some of her tasty products. Eleanor is making exciting ciders and has inspired other producers in Vermont to get into the cider industry. I want to highlight two more of her ciders, both which I highly recommend.

The Eden Imperial Rosé ($15) is produced from heirloom apples, red currants, and a touch of ice cider. At 11% ABV, it is off-dry, with a mild effervescence, and is fresh and crisp with delicious apple and currant flavors, blending together well. It is tasty on its own, though would pair well with food too, and this would be great on your table at Thanksgiving. At this price, it is a very good value and I was sure to pick up a couple bottles.

I've previously raved about the Eden Orleans Herbal Aperitif, kind of an apple Vermouth, a cider infused with organic herbs including Basil and Hyssop. I stated that it "is an intriguing and compelling cider, a unique blend which has lots of potential." At TasteCamp, I got to sample the companion to this aperitif, the Eden Orleans Bitter Aperitif ($30). The Bitter, with a 16% ABV, is a cider made with red currant, dandelion, angelica, and gentian. It possesses a complex and fascinating taste, with a potent bitterness, enhanced by more subtle hints of red fruit and apple. It is more of an apple Amaro, and should be an excellent ingredient for a variety of cocktails.

I was impressed with the Bitter just as much as I was the Herbal and would highly recommend both. They are very unique, quite delicious, complex and versatile. Many of the TasteCamp attendees seemed to agree as Eleanor sold plenty of bottles of the Aperitifs.

Whetstone Ciderworks, which is located on the banks of the Whetstone Brook, was founded in 2010 by Jason and Lauren MacArthur. They use apples from both their own orchard as well as some other local farms. Jason, on a trip to France, became enamored with wine making and upon his return to Vermont, he wanted to create something appropriate to the land and climate. Apples, rather than grapes, became his fruit of choice, thinking it best exemplified Vermont and its cold and wet climate. Jason noted that "cider is a delicate beverage" and they usually drink cider with food.

The Orchard King ($14) is made from a blend of apples including Jonagold, Pinova, Cox's Orange Pippin and some later bittersweet cider apples.  Dry and crisp, it possessed tasty flavors of tart apple and citrus, with a nice minerality. This would be excellent with cheese, and I could also see it working well with seafood dishes, from oysters to cod.

The Orchard Queen ($14) is made from a blend of apples including Lamb Abbey Permian, Orleans Reinette, Co'x Orange Pippin and Kingston Black. This too is dry and crisp, with a strong tart apple flavor and mild citrus, but its main difference is that it possesses an earthy element, a complex and intriguing aspect that appealed to me. I would pair this with other umami dishes, from sushi with soy sauce to mushroom risotto.

Stowe Cider was founded in 2013 by Stefan Windler, a chemist and biologist, and his wife, Mary. They use Vermont apples and make small batches of their diverse ciders. Their Summer Shandy is a blend of homemade lemonade and semi-dry cider. It is mostly dry, with bright citrus and lemon flavors, a nice tartness and a crisp and refreshing taste. Their Ginger Cider is aged in Vermont Rum barrels, their own version of a Dark n' Stormy. It is crisp and dry, with strong and clean apple & ginger flavors, and caramel and vanilla accents. The Wild Reserve is naturally fermented, made like a traditional Spanish cider, and is earthy and funky, with underlying tart apple flavors. Quite delicious.

Citizen Cider was founded in 2010 by Justin Heilenbach (a small farmer), Bryan Holmes (a chemist) and Kris Nelson (a wine salesman). It started off as a small project but quickly exploded so that by 2014, they had created a large production facility in Burlington, Vermont. They produce over 10 different types of cider, a diverse portfolio of intriguing ciders. The Northern Spy is a single varietal cider, made from apples sourced from Happy Valley Orchard. It has a complex and delicious taste, with nice tartness, a hint of sweetness, and is very crisp and refreshing. Citizen Plum Intended is intriguing as it is made with Sake yeast,  as well as co-fermented with macerated plums, also from Happy Valley Orchard. It was only mildly sweet, with a subtle plum flavor overlying the crisp, apple flavors. It was delicious and I picked up a couple bottles to take home.

In 2002, Bradley Koehler and his wife purchased the Windfall Orchard, a three-acre orchard which now grows over 80 varieties of apples and other assorted fruits. It is currently a small operation, with their only produce an apple ice cider. The Windfall Ice Cider is blend of 30 varieties of apples, including 50% heirloom and 50% traditional cider apples. Some of the traditional cider apples include Roxbury Russet and Esopus Spitenburg. It has a wild fermentation as well as a secondary fermentation, with some ice cider as a dosage. It ends up with a 9% ABV and 15% residual sugar, and tastes mostly dry with good acidity. It has a prominent and complex apple flavor with savory notes. There are also notes of honey, dried fruit and almost ripe pear. An excellent dessert wine.