Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I am back again with a new edition of Thursday Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I briefly highlight some interesting wine and food items that I have encountered recently.
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1) For Thanksgiving, join Beat Hôtel from 11am-8pm on November 28 for an open buffet and live country, bluegrass and Americana music all day long.

This country-style Thanksgiving buffet, priced at $38 for adults and $19 for children 12 and under, has something to satisfy everyone. Chef Rebecca Newell will be serving comfort food and a wide assortment of desserts. To accompany the buffet items, guests can choose from over 24 wines on tap, mostly either certified biodynamic, certified organic or sustainable culture wines, all available in 2.5 oz, 5oz, or 12oz pours. Mix, match and try one a different wine with each course. For something stronger, celebrate the all-American holiday with Beat Hôtel’s cocktails such as the American Breed made with Maker's Mark, St. elder elderflower liqueur and apple cider ($11), or Granny Takes a Trip, old overholt rye, bitterman's amere nouvelle, vya sweet vermouth ($10.50).

Throughout the day Beat Hôtel will have live Country and Bluegrass performers for customers to enjoy while they eat their Thanksgiving meals.

Buffet Menu (Menu subject to change)
Roast Organic Turkey
Peppered Beef Brisket
Wild Salmon with Parsley, Lemon & Sundried Tomatoes
Caramelized Leek Stuffing
Truffle Mashed Potatoes
Spinach Lasagne
Brussel Sprout, Broccoli, Parsnip & Shallot Medley
Soy-Braised Kabocha Squash
Harvard Beet Salad
Crisp Wedge & Bibb Salad with Dijon Vinaigrette
Pumpkin Lobster Bisque
Fresh Cranberry Sauce
Assorted Thanksgiving Desserts

Little Pilgrim’s
Pasta with Butter & Parmesan 10
Crispy Chicken Dinosaurs with Frites 10

To make reservations, please call Beat Hôtel at 617-499-0001.

2) Whether you're looking for the perfect gift for the person who has everything, or you want to impress your boss, friends or the in-laws, nothing says "happy holidays" bigger, better and bolder than a bottle of large format wine. Known to be superior in taste, large format wines are classified as anything more than 1.5 liters (the equivalent of two bottles of wine), and are now available in 1.5, 3, 5 and 6 liter bottles at The Wine ConneXtion, located in North Andover.

Every year, Sam and Tina Messina, siblings and co-owners of The Wine ConneXtion, set out in search for rare, large format wines produced by some of the most prestigious wineries-- and each year, their quest is unpredictable. Every large format wine is hand-bottled which makes production limited, and their availability rare. Bottles that do make it to the retail stores are found few and far between, and when they are available, are usually scooped up by wine enthusiasts who want to add them to their prized wine collections.

This year, The Wine ConneXtion searched far and wide to acquire the largest selection of large format wines in New England. Nowhere else can you find such a vast assortment of large format wines under one roof. Offering everything from 1.5, 3, 5 and even 6 liter bottles, The Wine ConneXtion’s collection of large format wines is the Holy Grail for any vino lover. Quantities are extremely limited, so stop by The Wine ConneXtion while supplies last.

3) Each holiday season from November 1 through New Year’s Eve, the Legal Sea Foods family of restaurants (Legal Sea Foods, Legal Test Kitchen, Legal C Bar and Legal Harborside) makes waves in assisting Boston Children’s Hospital. For the past eighteen years, a portion of the proceeds from every gift card sold has been contributed to innovative research that will benefit families with sick children. As an added incentive for gift-givers this holiday season, Legal Sea Foods will grant a “Lobster Dinner Reward” voucher – redeemable for a 1-1.25lb steamed lobster with a choice of two sides – for every $200 worth of gift cards purchased from the restaurants or online. (“Lobster Dinner Reward” voucher valid from January 2 through March 31, 2014)

To date, Legal Sea Foods has raised over $1 million through its holiday gift card program making it the longest running annual cause marketing program to support Boston Children’s Hospital. The funds raised through the gift card program benefit Boston Children’s Hospital expert Dr. Leonard Zon’s revolutionary zebrafish research. Zon is a world-renowned stem cell researcher who pioneered the field of zebrafish genomic research. The hope is that discoveries in the fish, whose genetic structure is similar to humans, will translate into cures for millions of people worldwide with malignant, degenerative and genetic diseases such as leukemia, cancer, anemia and immune deficiency disorders.

Says Roger Berkowitz, President & CEO of Legal Sea Foods, “We take great pride in contributing to the cutting-edge research performed at Boston Children’s Hospital. Corporate philanthropy is part of Legal’s DNA and, as a company known for having family-friendly restaurants, it’s our privilege to support an institution that has been so meaningful to families in our community.”

All Legal Sea Foods restaurants in Massachusetts are involved in the “Holiday Gift Cod” program. Gift cards are available for purchase in-store, online at www.legalseafoods.com, or by calling 1-800-EAT-FISH.

Kriselle Cellars: From Engineer to Winemaker

Reach back in time....

Some of the original inhabitants of the Rogue Valley in Southern Oregon were the Takelma, Native Americans, who settled primarily along the Rogue River. Though their lands were agriculturally fertile, they only seemed to grow a single crop, tobacco. The influx of white settlers into the region during the gold rush of the 19th century caused friction with the indigenous population, eventually leading to the Rogue River Wars of 1855-56. That end result to these wars was the forced relocation of the Takelma to coastal lands in northern Oregon, leaving their fertile lands for white settlers. About 150 years later, some of those lands are now covered by vineyards.

Along the Rogue River, you will now find Kriselle Cellars, located on the 200 acre Buxton Ranch, which also raises horses and cows, even producing some American Waygu beef. With their first vineyard planted in 2006, they now have about 25 acres of vitis vinifera, mainly Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Tempranillo, but with small amounts of Malbec, Sangiovese, Sauvignon Blanc and Viognier. Their first vintage was 2009 and they now produce 2000-3000 cases annually, with sufficient facilities to accommodate growth, which they intend to be slow. They still buy about 45% of their grapes, though only from other vineyards in the Rogue Valley. Their beautiful tasting room only opened about one year ago.

Scott Steingraber, the owner and winemaker at Kriselle, originally worked for twenty years as a civil engineer, travelling often around the West Coast. As a hobby, he eventually started making wine at home when he spent some time in Utah. This led him to to take some winemaking classes at UC Davis though he never acquired a formal enology degree. Located just outside the entrance to their tasting room, and pictured above, is the actual wine press that Scott first used. He chose to name the winery after his wife, Krisell, though added an extra "e" so people would have an easier time pronouncing the word.

Why did he select Southern Oregon? About ten years ago, Scott was seeking to purchase a load of Pinot Noir grapes from the Willamette Valley. However, at that time, the seller also received a load of Cabernet Sauvignon from Southern Oregon. Scott sampled the Cabernet and found the taste intense and flavorful, and decided to purchase it instead of the Pinot. The source of the Cabernet intrigued him and that led to his further interest, and eventual purchase, of an estate in Southern Oregon.

Just inside their tasting room is a large buffalo statue, called "Statue of a Warrior," which was created by Michael Hamby, a former football player for the Buffalo Bills.

Because of his prior career as an engineer, as a winemaker, Scott is very data driven, analytic and regimented. He also relies on professional advice for assistance. He is more scientist than artist, but his wines do not seem clinical and sterile, instead possessing life and verve. Scott is also very keen on cleanliness and hygiene, and the walls of his 5000 square feet winery are painted white, making it easier to see any dirt or cleanliness issues. He stated that visitors to the winery think that it looks brand new, when it is merely pristine. Scott creates wines to be food friendly, and he also makes some 500ml bottles just because he likes that size. The logo on each bottle of wine is the image of a wine bottle rising up from a pile of soil, meant to symbolize the importance of terroir.

As for white wines, we tasted the 2012 Sauvignon Blanc ($21) and 2012 Viognier ($20), both crisp, dry and with pleasing flavors. Nicely balanced, these whites showcased the varietals well. As for reds, the 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon ($32) and 2009 Cabernet Franc ($27) were both big wines, but not overly so, possessed of delicious red & black fruit and spice flavors. The tannins were restrained and each possessed nice depths of flavor and complexity. I preferred the Cab Franc, which contains a little Cabernet Sauvignon, and it didn't evidence any vegetal notes. Either red wine would pair well with hearty dishes, from Pasta Bolognese to steaks.

My favorite wine of the tasting was the 2010 Di'Tani ($25), which is named after a Takelma word meaning "the rock above." It is a blend with about 50% Cabernet Franc and the rest a mix of Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, and Tempranillo. It is an intriguing wine with a harmonious blend of earthiness, red and black fruits, and dark spice. Good acidity, manageable tannins and a lengthy, satisfying finish. Highly recommended.

Scott is representative of some of the winery owners in Southern Oregon who have taken on wine as their second career. After a lengthy career as a civil engineer, Scott moved on to making his hobby a new profession. His career change was obviously fueled by passion, and it was evident in our discussions with him at the winery. I wish him the best of luck.

Folin Cellars & God, King, Slave: Young Winemakers & Experimentation

You "better like your own wine" and "don't make it just for consumer preferences."
--Rob Folin

This advice would seem to create a dichotomy between passionate wine makers, who enjoy drinking the wines they create, and more mercenary wine makers, who devise wines to please the masses but who wouldn't drink the wine themselves. Would you rather drink wines made by the former or latter? Personally, I would opt for the former, and I suspect many lovers feel the same way.

Continuing our tour of the wineries of Southern Oregon, we stopped at Folin Cellars, in the Rogue Valley, to meet two young wine makers, Rob Folin and Chris Jiron. They provided an intriguing perspective on Southern Oregon, wine making and marketing, and because of their youth, are part of the future of the region.

Rob Folin, pictured above, is laid back and personable, young and passionate. His parents owned a ranch in the Rogue Valley and had some kiwis planted, but they were not working well. Rob, who had a growing interest in wine making, convinced his parents in 2001 to plant some grapes, and now they have about 25 acres of vineyards planted, including grapes such as Viognier, Tempranillo, Mourvedre, Grenache, Petite Sirah, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot. Rob doesn't believe they should stick with Pinot Noir, but should find the grapes which grow the best in their soils. Last year, their harvest started in October and they harvested about 60 tons but this year, the harvest began in September 11, and they expect to pick about 100 tons.

Initially, they sold all of their grapes to other wineries but eventually Rob wanted to create his own wine so they constructed a small winery, that now has a capacity of about 7000 cases. They still sell about 30% of their grapes, mainly to wineries in the Willamette Valley. For their own wines, they use only estate grapes and produce about 1500-2000 cases annually, though Rob also makes a few thousand custom crush wines for others. He distributes only a small amount of wine outside of Oregon as it is difficult to do so because of all the time and effort involved. His wines are a hand sell, and with such a small operation, Rob doesn't have the time to travel all across the country marketing and trying to sell his wines.

Rob likes being experimental, claiming that his youth allows him the opportunity to work on any wild idea he possesses, especially as there is no one hovering over his shoulder preventing him from taking chances. He experiments in the vineyards and the winery, and is always trying to create new wines. However, he also noted that because of the small size of the winery, he has to be very careful not to make a major mistake, which could significantly hurt the winery. It thus becomes a balancing act, to take risks, but calculated ones which won't destroy everything he has built. This raises an intriguing question: Are young wine makers, in general, more experimental than older wine makers? Are they less adverse to risk?

To Rob, "wine is a story" and he believes in being social, in marketing himself, including through social media. As such, he interacts with many potential customers in Oregon, including young wine drinkers. Overall, he believes that grenache is on an upswing in Southern Oregon, and that Viognier and Syrah are doing well too. Rob also mentioned that blends seems to appeal to younger wine drinkers, who feel that Chardonnay is too boring and Pinot Noir is too pricey. If true, maybe Oregon, if it wants to attract more younger drinkers, needs to produce more wines besides Pinot and Chardonnay.

Folin doesn't use corks in his wines, preferring to use screw caps or vinoseals. In addition, if you peruse one of their back labels, you won't find any tasting notes. Instead, there is a series of blank lines, as Rob believes you should be creating your own descriptors, based on your own taste. He doesn't want to try to tell you what you "should" be tasting in his wines. That might make the wine a harder sell on a wine store shelf if a consumer is seeking a certain flavor profile, which means these wines are more of a hand sell. However, you have to respect Rob's philosophy, placing the consumer's taste front and center over his own.

In honor of Rob's philosophy, I'll do the same in my reviews of three of his wines. Just know that I recommend all three of these wines, and encourage you to taste other wines of Folin Cellars too if you get the opportunity.

The 2009 Folin Cellars Miscero ($34) is a blend of about 50% Syrah, 37% Mourvedre and 13% Grenache with an alcohol content of 14.1%. A Rhone-style blend which is likely to please your palate. Give me lamb or a juicy steak with this wine and I will be a happy diner.

The 2012 Folin Cellars Grenache Rose ($20) was my favorite wine of the tasting. It was the style of Rose that I most enjoy, and I will drink this wine year round, with and without food. Highly recommended to all.

The 2007 Folin Cellars Tempranillo Dessert Wine ($25/375ml) is made in a Port-style from 100% Tempranillo. They only made 48 cases and it will remind you of a Ruby Port. I would love to sip a glass of this with a plate of various blue cheeses.

Chris Jiron, pictured above, helps out Rob and also has his own wine label, God, King, Slave. Chris actually started out wine blogging about Southern Oregon and eventually moved into wine making, wanting to be on the ground floor of an emerging wine region. He began producing wine in 2009, now making his wines at Folin Cellars with an annual production of around 400 cases from fruit that he purchases in Southern Oregon.

The name of his winery derives from a famous saying by Constantin Brancusi, a Romanian sculptor, which states: "Work like a slave; command like a king; create like a god." He has had a few problems with his use of the term "god" on his label, though it doesn't appear those individuals are aware of the quote itself.

He doesn't have a tasting room, but makes himself available to people who give him a call and want to meet him to taste. Most of his wines are sold in Portland and he markets himself, not a brand, similar to what Rob does. As with Rob, social media is very important to Chris too. He feels that the younger generation of winemakers want to create different wines, to experiment, which follows Rob's thoughts as well. Chris though feels that "millennial marketing is silly" and that though the younger generation is interested in wine, it is still the older generation that is buying more of the wine.

The 2012 Sauvignon Blanc ($18-$19) is aged sur lie, has an alcohol content of 13.6% and only about 60-70 cases were produced. It has a richer taste and mouthfeel, with plenty of grapefruit and lime flavors. Good acidity, nicely balanced, and very easy to drink.

My favorite of the three wines I tasted was the 2012 Kinfolk ($24), a blend of 40% Viognier, 30% Marsanne, and 30% Roussanne. About 105 cases were produced and the wines has an alcohol content of 14.2%. It aroma was alluring, a complex melange of fruit and floral, with other subtle aromatics.On the palate, it too had a richer mouthfeel, with a complex blend of flavors, including peach, citrus, herbs, and some minerality. Crisp and dry, it had an extremely pleasing finish. Highly recommended.

The 2010 Syrah-Tempranillo ($27), is a 50/50 blend and about 100 cases were produced. The Syrah is intended to soften the tannins of the Tempranillo and this is the second vintage of this wine. It is made in a lighter style, with restrained tannins, but it possesses deep flavors, from black cherry to plum, intense spice to violet notes. With balanced acidity and a lengthy finish, it is a satisfying wine that would pair well with hearty dishes, from roast pig to a thick T-bone.

Rob and Chris represent some of the young winemakers in Southern Oregon, passionate people who love to experiment, who don't feel bound by restrictions. They feel free to let their imaginations run wild, though they still have their feet on the ground, understanding that it is also a business. They spend plenty of time interacting with customers, and understand the value of social media. They are producing some interesting wines and I see much potential in these two men. As Southern Oregon becomes more and more well know, you likely will hear more about Folin Cellars and God, King, Slave.

Hand Fed Tigers & A Contest

Hand Fed Tigers, the new Tipsy Sensei novel, is now available as an ebook, with a trade paperback due out later this month.

Zombies, Cats & Ninjas.

This new novel takes place directly after the events of Demons, Gods & Sake, as Nate and Hato return to Boston, hoping for a respite from all the dangers they recently faced. Nate wants to reconnect with his wife, angry after being kidnapped by ruthless yakuza. In addition, the police want Nate so he must handle that problem too.

As they return to Boston, they find that a series of "zombie" murders are occurring in Boston, and there might be a legal connection between the victims. Are these supernatural zombies, or is there a more rational, scientific explanation? And how will the police stop the killings?

As Nate ponders the zombie problem, he is unaware that a mysterious organization is seeking him and have retained the services of a skilled ninja to kidnap him. Why do they want Nate? And how far are they willing to go to get him?

And how are cats involved in all of this? From cat prostitutes to a Japanese island of cats, there is a feline presence throughout the novel. Should Nate fear this presence? Will he feel the razor-honed claws of a cat?

The Tipsy Sensei series continues with a more personal challenge for Nate. Assisted by Hato, a master swordsman, Nate must confront deadly adversaries who will stop at nothing to acquire their objective. What price will Nate pay to defeat them?

CONTEST

In honor of the ebook release of Hand Fed Tigers, I am holding a contest where I will give away three copies of my new book. All you have to do is answer one question: What does the Japanese word "neko" mean?

Please post your answer in a comment to this post. On Wednesday, November 6, at 10am, the contest will end and I will randomly draw 3 names from all those who provided the correct answer. Those 3 people will each win an ebook copy of Hand Fed Tigers.

Good luck!

Hand Fed Tigers (Tipsy Sensei #5) & Special Price on Demons, Gods & Sake

The Tipsy Sensei series continues in a new novel that will be available this upcoming week through Amazon as an ebook, and later this month as a trade paperback. Hand Fed Tigers is the 5th installment of the Tipsy Sensei series and it involves zombies, ninjas & cats.

After defeating supernatural Oni, ruthless Yakuza and a Master Assassin in Japan, Nate Randall and Hato return to Boston, hoping for a respite from danger. Nate also hopes to reconnect with his wife, though aware that she is going to be furious after having been kidnapped. In addition, the police still seek Nate so he needs to resolve that situation as well.

As he tries to handle those issues, a series of zombie murders, which may or may not have a supernatural origin, terrify the city. What is the connection of the victims, which includes several people connected to the legal profession?

As Nate ponders the zombie killings, he is unaware that a mysterious organization is seeking him and have retained the services of a ninja to kidnap him. Why do they want Nate? And how far are they willing to go to get him? And how are cats involved in all of this?

The Tipsy Sensei series continues with a more personal challenge for Nate, a Sake expert based in Boston. Accompanied by Hato, a master swordsman, Nate must confront deadly adversaries who will stop at nothing to acquire their objective. What price will Nate pay to defeat them?

Hand Fed Tigers should be available as an ebook on Monday or Tuesday.

I'll also note some of the restaurants mentioned in this new novel, including Painted Burro, Posto, Bristol Lounge, Clam Box of Ipswich, Bergamot, Tampopo, AKA Bistro, and Taberna de Haro, I've also mentioned a few restaurants from Portland, Oregon, including Pok Pok, Miho Izakaya,and Zilla Sake.

Prior to reading Hand Fed Tigers, you might want to start with Demons, Gods and Sake (Tipsy Sensei #4). This was the first Tipsy Sensei novel and introduced Hato, the immortal samurai, who protects Nate. In this book, Nate must protect an ancient artifact of great power which is being sought by supernatural oni, a ruthless yakuza clan and a master assassin. The action ranges from Boston to Japan, and it currently has nine 5-Star reviews on Amazon.

With the imminent release of Hand Fed Tigers, I am offering the ebook of Demons, Gods & Sake at a special discount from Sunday, November 3, through Tuesday, November 5. As part of the Kindle Countdown Deal, Demons, Gods & Sake will initially be available on Sunday for 50% off, at $1.99. During the discount period, that price will eventually rise to $2.99 and then back to its original price. So, for the best deal, make sure to pick up a copy on Sunday.

Kanpai!