Abacela Vineyards: A Spanish Touch

When visiting different wine regions, I usually find a number of wines I would like to purchase, but flying with wine is a challenge. There can be the added cost for additional luggage and the a risk that the bottles might break during the flight. Generally, I'll only purchase one to three bottles, and pack them carefully in my existing luggage. Thus, I need to be very selective in which bottles I decide to transport home. When I recently visited Oregon, I purchased only a single bottle, a high end Tempranillo from Abacela Vineyards. It was a most impressive wine.

Earl Jones, pictured above, is the owner of Abacela Vineyards and led us on a tour of the winery. Living with his wife, Hilda, in Pensacola, Florida, Earl had a passion for Spanish wine, specifically the Tempranillo grape. From that passion spawned the question for Earl whether Tempranillo could be successfully grown in the U.S.or not. As he searched for an appropriate region, he found that Southern Oregon occupied a similar latitude as sections of northern Spain, including parts of Ribera del Duero and Rioja. Further analysis and investigation, including consultation with his son Greg, led him to believe that Tempranillo could potentially do well in this area. So, in 1992, he purchased land on south sloping hillsides in Umpqua Valley, hoping to fulfill a dream.

In 1995, they planted the first Tempranillo in the Pacific Northwest and would make their first varietal Tempranillo in 1997. For the name of their winery, they chose an ancient term, "abacela," which is common to the Spanish, Galician and Portuguese languages. The term means "to plant a grape vine," symbolic of their efforts in starting a new vineyard, as well as honoring the Spanish Tempranillo. Besides grapes, they also chose to preserve some 19th century orchards that already existed on the property, which bear pears, apples and oranges.

There is a fault line beneath their property, a "bulldozer" fault, which moves north but does not cause any shaking. However, it does mean that part of their soil is approximately 450 million years older than the rest of the soil. Their estate now consists of 500 acres and there are about 76 acres under vine, though they only count the actual area occupied by the vines and not the alleys between the vine rows. Besides Tempranillo, they grow other Spanish and Portuguese grapes, as well as a few others. In all, they grow about 20 grapes, some experimental, as they still seek to determine which other grapes will grow well on their property. Over time, they have stopped growing some grapes as they determined they could not grow them commercially and constantly for 8 out of 10 years. Earl stated that "climate is the dominant factor in deciding what to grow."

When we first arrived at Abacela, we saw this intriguing cannon, initially suspecting it was merely decorative. However, Earl indicated that it was a working cannon that they found for sale, and now use on special occasions. Not sure there are many wineries that have their own working cannon. Wine thieves beware!

Abacela is very eco-conscious and was one of the first carbon neutral wineries. Outside the winery, there is a series of panels about the winery, including one which outlines all of their eco-conscious programs. For one, they work with Wildlife Safari, trading hay for manure, which they will use for compost/fertilizer. Like many other Oregon wineries, they care about the environment, and work towards supporting it, rather than working against it.

The Abacela property has one of the longest growing seasons in the region and a low frost risk. To monitor matters, there are about 30 weather stations on the estate gathering data. This is not surprising as Greg has assisted his father in understanding the climate, soil and terroir of the estate. In 2013, they have only had about 8.8 inches of rain so far, which is unusual, and they expect to harvest, only hand harvesting, about 200 tons of grapes. Earl stated that it is still too early to determine the signature grape of Southern Oregon. Though he, and now other wineries, are having success with Tempranillo, more time and experimentation is still necessary. Earl conducts plenty of experiments, from different grapes to different barrels. It is a continual learning experience, gathering lots of data each year, constantly seeking to improve.

Abacela produces wines including Tempranillo, Dolcetto, Garnacha, Malbec, Syrah, Merlot, Muscat, Albarino, Viognier and more. The wines are distributed in about 27 states, so there is a decent chance that you might be able to find them locally, though they have little distributiion outside of the U.S. Their wines are available in Massachusetts and I strongly recommend that my local readers seek them out. You won't be disappointed.

As we toured the winery, we sipped some of their 2012 Grenache Rosé ($16). They crop tbeir Grenache differently for their rosé than they do their red, and Earl noted that Grenache can be a challenging grape as it needs a long time to ripen. The rosé undergoes only four hours of skin contact, giving it a nice, pink color, and it has an alcohol content of 13.1%. It reminded me more of a French rosé, dry and with restrained but complex red fruit flavors. Delicious, and the type of rosé I prefer to drink.

The rest of our wine tasting took place during lunch, which began with a fresh salad of mixed greens, peaches, crispy serrano ham, and a verjus dressing. Tasting wine with food is always a worthwhile experience, giving you a better sense of the wine.

What is Tempranillo without Spanish cuisine? Our main dish was a huge Paella, with chicken, shrimp, chorizo, peas, green beans, tomatoes, and peppers. Compelling and flavorful, I had refills, and probably could have eaten even more. It well well with the wines, and seemed appropriate for much of what we were drinking. Everyone should have more paella in their lives.

Though Earl stated that the estate is a difficult terroir for Albarino, the 2012 Albarino ($18) was excellent. It was crisp and dry,with pleasant flavors of apple and pear as well as some mineral notes. The finish was long and delicious, and it would make a fine food wine, or be enjoyable on its own too.

Besides Spanish and Portuguese grapes, Abacela also does well with their 2009 Malbec ($25), a smooth and approachable wine with lush black fruit flavors and plenty of spicy notes. Good complexity and a long finish enhance this wine. The 2009 Estate Syrah ($30) is another easy drinking wine, big and fruity with restrained tannins and mild spice and earth elements.

For me, the star of the tasting, and the only wine I purchased this trip, was the 2005 Paramour ($90). Abacela makes 4 different Tempranillos and this is the top of their line. Inspired by the iconic Vega Sicilia Unico, Earl has long desired to make a Gran Reserva style, and the great vintage of 2005 provided him an opportunity. 2005 also happened to be an excellent vintage in Spain too. One key difference between Spanish Gran Reservas and the Paramour is that Earl chose to use French oak rather than American. The Paramour spent about two years in French oak barrels (30% new) and then four years in the bottle. Only 170 cases of this wine were produced, using very much hands-on wine making processes. They believe the 2005 Paramour will reach its full maturity in 2017 and plateau around 2029.They will produce additional Paramour wines, in exceptional vintages.

This was an amazing wine, and reminded me of some high end Spanish Tempranillo wines. From its alluring aromas to its complex melange of flavors, this wine impressed from start to finish. I think it was very drinkable now, and will continue to remain strong for years to come. It is difficult to describe this wine, which is something you need to experience and which mere words cannot adequately encapsulate. Each sip brings new flavors to mind, and it is a wine to slowly savor over dinner, with great friends. Earl should be extremely proud of the Paramour, and this wine is evidence of how well Tempranillo can be produced in Southern Oregon.

After dinner, we got to try a wine that hadn't been released yet, which had been bottled the week before, the 2008 "Five Year" Tawny Port ($37.50/500ml). They have made other Ports before, since 1999, and were grandfathered by law so they can legally use the term "Port" on their wines. This is their first Tawny style, and unlike many other American style Ports, they use five Portuguese grapes in their blend, including Bastardo, Tinta Amarela, Tinta Cao, Tinta Roriz, and Touriga Nacional. They acquire their brandy from Clear Creek Distillery, and aged this Tawny for five years in neutral oak. Only 200 cases were produced and it has an alcohol content of 19%.

A delicious and complex taste, with plenty of flavor, including raisin, fig, ripe plum, caramel, and nutty notes. Very concentrated flavors, well balanced, smooth and with a lingering finish. In a blind taste test with Portuguese Tawny Ports, you would likely be hard pressed to pick out the Abacela.

Abacela Vineyards is a star of Southern Oregon, and Earl's dreams have come to fruition in his exceptional Paramour. Much of his success is due to his extensive data collection and analysis of the terroir, which is important for all wineries that are concerned with terroir. Experimentation is still important in Southern Oregon as well, to learn which grapes grow best, which grapes will one day be the signature grapes of the region. If visiting Southern Oregon, make sure to check out Abacela.

Rant: Cook More Seafood, Especially Local

I don't think you're listening to me and I'm only trying to help. Pay attention! My advice will benefit your health, bring you pleasure, help local businesses, and assist the country's economic welfare. And what I am asking is relatively easy to do, so why aren't you listening to me?

My advice is: Cook More Seafood, Especially Local.

Last year, my advice was very similar: Eat More Seafood, Especially Local. And as far back as March 2010, I've been exhorting people to Eat More Fish, especially because of its significant health benefits. However, seafood consumption in the U.S. has been declining for the last seven years. That is a terrible situation and needs immediate change. Numerous health problems plague our population and increased seafood consumption would help to change that situation.

As I mentioned last year, annual seafood consumption in 2011 decreased to 15 pounds per person, dropping from 15.8 pounds in 2010. Recent reports indicate that seafood consumption in 2012 continued to decline, down to 14.6 pounds. The prior 2011 report was even more disturbing when it revealed that the U.S. imports 91% of their seafood, up 5% from 2010. Why aren't we buying more locally sourced seafood?

It seems that cost is often at the root of these problems. Earlier this year, I indicated this was a significant issue and recent reports reiterate that conclusion. However, recent reports delineate the issue in more depth, indicating that seafood consumption at restaurants may actually be increasing in many places. That is obviously a positive development, seeming to indicate that people want to eat more seafood and understand the benefits. The overall decline in consumption seems to be mostly due to less people cooking seafood at home.

Do you have difficulty preparing seafood at home? Do you know how to cook fish and shellfish? Are there reasons why you don't cook more seafood at home? Is the price alone the problem?

Fish can be prepared in a myriad of methods, from raw to baked, fried to grilled. It can be added to soups, stews, risottos, casseroles, stir fry or sauces. Seafood can be prepared very simply and still possess plenty of taste. Buy a seafood cookbook and experiment if you want to make more intricate dishes. Seek out help from other cooks about the best ways to prepare seafood. It isn't as hard to prepare as you think.

So what are you waiting for? Get out there and cook more seafood, especially local.

If you have a recommendation for an excellent seafood cookbook, please leave it in the comments.
If you have advice and suggestions for cooking seafood at home, please leave it in the comments.

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I am back again with a new edition of Thursday Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I briefly highlight some interesting wine and food items that I have encountered recently.
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1) The Salty Pig announces the introduction of a new pasta program. Showcasing the talents of Executive Chef Kevin O’Donnell and Sous Chef Michael Lombardi - both of whom worked in Italy and at Mario Batali’s Del Posto - the menu now features a rotating selection of pastas and Italian-influenced starters and mains.

Not only will The Salty Pig make all pasta in-house, but it will also produce pasta for sister restaurants Coda Bar & Kitchen and Canary Square, averaging about 50 pounds per week. Three different types are currently featured on the menu: a buckwheat pappardelle with rabbit and local cabbage, cavatelli with sausage, broccoli, and chili, and tonnarelli with pecorino, black pepper, and olive oil.

The Salty Pig has also introduced a new weekly concept, Red Sauce Sundays, created to give guests a fun yet affordable dining experience. Each Sunday, the restaurant will transform into a throwback Italian joint reminiscent of the good ol’ days with red checkered tablecloths, candles, and the smooth sounds of Sinatra. The menu will feature a rotating selection of Italo-American crowd-pleasing classics made with high quality ingredients and The Salty Pig’s touch including marinated house made mozzarella, bolognese, eggplant parmesan, and chicken piccata.

2) As fall segues to winter, Ashmont Grill’ has changed their menus to match the seasons. That includes the following:

Spicy Smoked Pork Tacos, tomatillo salsa, cotija, cilantro crema
Oyster Pan Roast – an Acadian recipe that adds the heat of chourizo broth to shucked oysters; sop ‘em up with tarragon-parmesan toasts
Mark’s Charcuterie Board – meats and cheeses change often, but this will always feature the snappiest housemade pickle in Boston
Roast Delicata Squash stuffed with pumpkin-cranberry farro
Lemony Braised Pork Shank with grilled Napa cabbage
Beef Tongue & Kimchee Sandwich (with cheddar, avocado and fries)
Salted Caramel Parfait with almond shortbread streusel, candied almonds
Clare's Ice Cream Sandwich of the Month: roasted banana chip ice cream with peanut butter cookie
Dorchester’s own beer: Percival Brewing Company’s DOT ALE 1630
The Hot & Dirty: hand-stuffed blue cheese olives, brine and Tabasco, with Ketel One

Three unique events are also coming up at Ashmont Grill:
Sunday, November 24: Moustache Brunch
A hair-raising benefit, with proceeds donated to the Codman Square Health Center
Monday, December 2: Five Course Beringer Wine Dinner
$65 per person, by reservation only.
Sunday, December 15: Ugly Christmas Sweater Brunch
Everyone’s got one; we wanna see ‘em. Come wearing yours and you could win a prize.

3) Each year, on the first Thursday in December at 3:30 PM, residents of all ages in Concord assemble on Walden Street for the arrival of the largest wheel of Italian cheese in North America. This year, the date is December 5. The annual Crucolo Cheese Parade attracts over 1,000 adults and children, attracted to a spectacle that includes:

--The arrival down the town’s main commercial street, by horse-drawn cart, of a 400 lb. wheel of Crucolo cheese, equal in diameter to a 3-year-old child.
--The Crucolo is accompanied by a member of the Purin family, makers of Crucolo for the past 250 years. Its trip began in Scurelle, a town in the mountains of Trentino, Italy, where the cheese is made especially for this event.
--The Crucolo Dancers, a troupe of exuberant Concord Academy teenagers, prance down the street in advance of the cheese. Simultaneously, the cheese is loudly serenaded by an Italian chorale group, while 1,000 excited onlookers brandish Italian flags.
--A proclamation announcing Crucolo Day in Concord is read, Occupy Wall Street-style; a human megaphone echoing in English and Italian.
--The Crucolo is rolled from the horse cart to a stage, as if bridging the Old World with the New World. It is then cut, sliced and distributed to the hungry crowd.

On the sidewalk people pose with the giant cheese, while inside The Concord Cheese Shop, cheese-lovers clamor to purchase Crucolo, which retails for about $20/lb. The entire 400-lb. wheel will be sold before Christmas.

The Crucolo parade is free and open to the public.

4) On Tuesday, December 3, at 6:30pm, Piattini, located on Newbury Street, is hosting a special tasting of rare and unusual Italian cheeses. Owner Josephine Oliviero Megwa will be joined by cheese extraordinaire Mark Sutherland of WB Cheese, and the two will lead an intimate tasting in Piattini’s private dining room. Guests will learn about the ancient cheese-making methods that are still used today and will even have a chance to make their own fresh mozzarella. Sutherland will bring with him a rare and unusual selection of imported Italian cheeses and as guest’s sample the different varieties he’ll explain the different nuances and tasting notes of each.

Piattini’s cheese tasting is $30 per person (tax and gratuity not included), and for an additional $15 guests can sip on perfectly paired wines for each cheese selection. Space is limited and reservations are required by calling Piattini at 617-536-2020.

5) Do you feel lucky? Want to win a free dinner? Laurie’s 9:09, located in Wakefield, will begin offering a new Wednesday night special that gives customers the chance to eat for free with the flip of a coin. Every Wednesday evening, starting November 13, guests will be presented their bill at the end of the meal and the waiter will flip a coin and the guests will be allowed to call “heads” or “tails.” If they guess correctly their dinner is completely free. If they guess incorrectly they will be required to pay their bill. There are no party size restrictions on this offer and all are welcomed in to try their luck.

“We’re still a pretty new restaurant and while Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays are very busy, we still want to give people a fun reason to come in and enjoy our place mid-week. When thinking of a fun promotion I tried to think of what would make me want to come out on a Wednesday night. The idea of getting it all for free seemed like a big motivator to me,” said Chef/Owner, Laurie Rizzo.

The promotion is not valid for takeout, excludes alcohol and you are asked to still tip on the total amount of the bill that is complimentary should you win the coin flip.

6) On Monday and Tuesday November 25 and 26, 2013, Rolling Stones band members Tim Reis, Bernard Fowler and Darryl Jones will be performing songs off of Reis’s album “The Rolling Stones Project,” at the newly opened Beat Hôtel located in Harvard Square, for a once-in-a-lifetime iconic performance. From 9pm-12am, the former Rolling Stones band members will play an assortment of Stones classics as guests enjoy food from Executive Chef Rebecca Newell and sip on cocktail specials from Ketel One and Bulleit Rye Whiskey.

Tim Reis, one of the one of the most sought after soloists, composers, and arrangers in the music business, had the opportunity to play the keyboard and horn while touring with The Rolling Stones in 1999. Following the tour, Reis began work on his album and realized that a lot of The Stones music had “great potential for jazz arrangements,” and thus, “The Rolling Stones Project” was formed. The project features guests like Sheryl Crow, Norah Jones and original Stones members Keith Richards and Charlie Watts. Since their first live performance in 2004, The Rolling Stones Project toured the world playing in prestigious venues and festivals including Toronto Jazz Festival, The Stockholm Jazz Festival, Ronnie Scotts in London and The Melbourne Jazz Festival.

Reis will be joined on stage at Beat Hôtel by Rolling Stones backup vocalist Bernard Fowler and bassist Darryl Jones. Fowler’s relationship with the Stones began when he sang back up vocals for Mick Jagger on his solo album “She’s the Boss.” Proving his stamina and soulful talent, Fowler joined The Rolling Stones and has since toured with them as a backup vocalist and worked with Ronnie Wood, Charlie Watts and Keith Richards on their solo projects, also appearing on their albums and tours.

Much like Reis and Fowler, Darryl Jones has the same extraordinary experience. Jones has appeared on over 30 albums and worked with an astounding list of accomplished artists including Yoko Ono, Robert Plant, Pearl Jam, The Neville Brothers, Herbie Hancock, Duran Duran and The Red Hot Chili Peppers to name a few. In 1994 he was asked to join The Rolling Stones as a bassist, replacing Bill Wyman and he has been with them ever since.

To make a reservation or for more information please call 617-499-0001

Rant: People of Color & The Local Alcohol Industry

How many people of color work in the spirits/cocktail industry in the Boston area? How many people of color are involved in brewing and distilling? How many people of color enjoy drinking spirits and cocktails?

I don't have answers for the first two questions, though there appears to be only a tiny number of people of color involved in craft brewing. However, I suspect that the answer to the third question is significant, that many people of color enjoy a wide variety of spirits and cocktails. However, at this week's Thirst Boston, there seemed to be only a handful of people of color at the event. Why was that so?

From their website: "Thirst Boston is a gathering of bartenders, industry icons and beverage connoisseurs from Boston and beyond. Our goal is to educate attendees on the science, craft, and taste of all things related to the art of drink." At some of the seminars I attended, they asked the audience about their connections to the industry, and there were always a significant portion of enthusiasts, people who didn't work in the industry and just enjoyed alcoholic beverages. So it wasn't just a trade event and was inclusive of enthusiasts as well. There seemed to be a parity of male and female attendees, which was good to see. Overall, it was a fun, educational and interesting event, and I'll be writing more about it soon.

However, I wondered why there weren't more people of color.

Thirst Boston isn't unique in this regard. Last year's Boston Cocktail Summit had the same issue and at other, smaller spirits/cocktail events I have attended in the last couple years, there have also been a dearth of people of color. This is a bigger issue than a problem at any single event. It is an issue worthy of examination, analysis and discussion. Let us find ways to attract more people of color to these type of beverage events.

As a start, I would like to start a list of people in color who are involved in the local beverage industry. Back in 2008, I started a list of female wine writers and would like to do something similar for people of color in Massachusetts. To help me compile this list, please send me info on any people of color in Massachusetts who are bartenders, mixologists, distillers, brewers, distributors, beverage writers, brand ambassadors, or connected to the alcohol industry in any other way. Let's highlight these individuals and show the diversity that currently exists, and maybe motivate others to get involved as well.

Cowhorn Vineyards: A Biodynamic Choice

Even if you didn't know it was Biodynamic, the name of Cowhorn Vineyards might clue you in as cowhorn is integral to one of the more famous Biiodynamic preparations. Preparation 500 is essentially a cow horn, filled with a cow manure mixture, that is buried in the ground. The purpose of this preparation is to improve soil structure and microbiological activity. It is considered by some to be one of the key preparations for Biodynamics. Cowhorn Vineyards is the only certified Biodynamic vineyard in Southern Oregon, though you will find a number of others in the Willamette Valley.

Cowhorn is owned by Bill and Barbara Steele, and this is a second career for them. Bill was a Wall Street analyst for about 20 years while Barbara was involved in accounting and finance. That seems quite removed from owning a vineyard. However, some of Barbara's clients were farmers and she eventually became enamored with farming, desirous of getting involved in the soil. Bill was amenable to a big change and willing to delve into agriculture. They had family in Oregon and after a vacation there in 2001, they decided to move to Ashland, Oregon.

Initially, they had not been wine drinkers, preferring beer, but Barbara's brother was a wine writer, and they eventually started drinking and enjoying wine. Their growing passion for wine led to their decision to start a vineyard and try to make wine. A bold move for two people who had never been involved in farming before. They wanted a blank canvas, something which they could transform into whatever they desired. In addition, they sought an isolated farm with good water rights, and in 2002, finally found what they desired, an abandoned farm. The estate comprised 117 acres, 60 which were flat, and the land reached to the Applegate River.

They hired some consultants to analyze their land and it was found to be especially conducive to Rhone grapes. The Steeles initially planted about 11 acres of vines, which has now grown to 23 acres. The vines are densely planted, and nearly all are Rhone varietals. This endeavor was a huge challenge to these novice farmers and there was a steep learning curve, yet they were up for the challenge. For example, they were able to create and construct their winery in only 10.5 months. Everything had to be started from scratch, a formidable endeavor in which they immersed themselves.

Bill stated that prior to moving to Oregon, they had lived an organic/homeopathic lifestyle, and that included their dogs as well. Biodynamics was similar to their philosophy so it was an easy decision to choose to adopt it for their vineyard. Bill is a true believer but doesn't push his ideas on anyone, stating that his philosophy is a choice, a preference, and it is not about right or wrong. The vineyard and winery has been Demeter certified since 2006, and the health of their soil is of utmost importance to them.

The property has been fenced in since 2004, to prevent animals from wandering onto the property, including mountain lions which inhabit the region. In the future, they may choose to raise their own animals, as they as an important aspect of Biodynamics. At the time of our visit, they hadn't yet begun harvesting, unlike many of the other Southern Oregon wineries, as their site tends to be cooler than many of the surrounding farms. It is a beautiful site, surrounded by mountains, with lots of trees and lush vegetation. There is an air of serenity as well, almost a step back into the past.

Data collection is important to them, allowing them to better understand their vineyard, and that isn't a surprise knowing Bill used to be a financial analyst. That analytical nature might seem incongruent with his embrace of Biodynamics but Bill doesn't feel that it is the case. He stated that his greatest challenge was maintaining his sanity, with so much work that needs to be done, the risks of weather, the unexpected complications, and so much more. It can almost be overwhelming, especially as they had no prior experience. It helps that the people of the wineries of Southern Oregon are very cooperative, and quickly lend assistance and advice when needed.

Though the misinformed might think Biodynamic farmers shun technology, that is not the case. For example, Bill's pump house, weighing in at 6 tons, is high-tech, a system of "pure math." And its blue and red colors make it stand out, helping to show visitors the different aspects of the winery. Bill and Barbara hired a wine consultant to assist with wine making, to show them what needed to be done. For their wines, they conduct little filtering and use their own sulfur dioxide. Though their annual production is low, and you might think their wines are only available in Oregon, some of their wines are actually distributed in New York.

This is Buddy, one of their dogs, and he followed us around much of our tour of the vineyard. He is a mimic, often imitating the actions of those around him. This was more than evident when we were at the vines and Bill encouraged us to taste some of the grapes. Buddy decided that meant he could do the same, and he grabbed an entire cluster of Viognier in his mouth and ran off to enjoy the grapes. I guess he thought they were ready for harvest.

Cowhorn produces a number of different wines, including whites, reds and a rosé, though we only tasted three of their wines. Bill lamented over the difficulties of using Grenache grapes, which could be transformed into a $35 wine, into a Rosé for which he could only charge around $22. That is certainly an issue common to other wine makers too, of how best to use their grapes.

The 2012 Spiral 36 ($28) is a blend of 50% Viognier, 30% Marsanne and 20% Roussane, and only 650 cases were produced. The wine spends about 3 months in French oak (80% neutral, 20% new), has an alcohol content of 13.5% and native yeasts are used. It was crisp and clean, with pleasant citrus, pineapple, and melon fruit flavors, as well as a nice richness on the palate.

The 2012 Marsanne Roussanne ($28) is a blend of 45% Marsanne and 44% Roussanne 55%, and only 125 cases were produced. The wine spends about 4 months in French oak (83% neutral, 17% new) and has an alcohol content of 13.5%. It too was crisp and clean, with notes of green apple, lemon, and apricot, with a backbone of minerality. Well balanced and a lengthy finish. Highly recommended.

The 2009 Syrah 80 ($35) is made from 100% Syrah, and only 630 cases were produced. It is named "80" because that is the number of frost hours in the growing season. The wine spends about 9 months in French oak (35% new) and has an alcohol content of 13.5%. I enjoyed this wine, finding it possessed a nice depth of flavor, excellent black and blue fruit flavors, a mild spiciness and a bit of floral aspect. It is more a wine of elegance than power, with a long and satisfying finish. A wine that beckons out for roast lamb, a hearty aged steak or a rich meat sauce.