Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I am back again with a new edition of Thursday Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting wine and food items that are upcoming.
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1) Legal Harborside will honor Christmas this year with a four-course customizable menu featuring the best from land, sea and vine. The feast – complete with optional wine pairings – will be presented as follows:

FIRST COURSE:
Seasonal Salad
-or-
Sunchoke Bisque (duck confit, pear compote)
-or-
Treasures of the Sea (oysters, shrimp cocktail, accompaniments)
(add stone crab - $10)
SECOND COURSE:
Bay Scallop Tiradito (preserved lime, heirloom radish, aji pepper)
-or-
Lobster Pappardelle (baby carrots, black trumpet mushrooms, vanilla foam)
-or-
Seared Sea Scallops (crispy Kurobuta pork belly, Tuscan kale, smoked maple syrup)
THIRD COURSE:
Seared Duck Breast (Georgia sugar squash puree, chestnut farro risotto, Washington cherries, hazelnut gremolata)
-or-
Sautéed Cod (braised calamari, salt roasted potato, tomato chili broth)
-or-
Roasted Prime Rib of Beef (potato puree, root vegetables, red wine demi-glace)
-or-
Loch Duart Salmon (charred broccoli rabe, guanciale, romesco puree)
DESSERT COURSE:
Cranberry Orange Pavlova
-or-
Duet of Eggnog Cheesecake and Opera Torte

WHEN: Wednesday, December 25 from 12pm – 8pm
COST: $60 per person (beverage, tax and gratuity not included)
Reservations can be made by contacting 617-477-2900

2) On Tuesday, December 10, at 6:45pm, Rosaria Steakhouse presents a special, pairing dinner and wine class featuring Italian selections from Masciarelli Wine Company. Rosaria Executive Chef Simone Floretti, and Masciarelli Wine Company Chief Consultant Marc Bergeron, have teamed up to design a succulent 5-course menu paired with wines from renowned Italian vineyard; Castello di Cacchiano near Siena, Tuscany.

The Menu include:
1st Course: Bruschetta with Truffle Ricotta Cheese and Cubed Bresaola
o Wine: 2011 Toscano Rosso (a “Super-Tuscan” Red)
2nd Course: Ricotta Gnocchi with homemade Sausage Ragu
o Wine: 2006 Chianti Classico Reserva
3rd Course: Pappardelle with Short Ribs
o Wine: 2007 Chianti Classico “Millenio”
4th Course: Porcini-rubbed Delmonico Steak with Gorgonzola Sauce and Roasted Potatoes
o Wine: 2007 Toscana Rosso “Fonte Merlano”
5th Course: Christmas Panettone Bread Pudding
o Wine: 2001 Vin Santo

Cost: $85 per person (tax and gratuity included)
Reservation required - please call: 781-558-2759 There is a 48-hrs in advance cancellation notice required.

3) Leave the cooking to someone else this Christmas Day and come into Beacon Hill Hotel & Bistro on Wednesday, December 25, from 1pm-10pm.

CHRISTMAS DAY DINNER MENU (Optional wine pairing is available)

Appetizers
White Sweet Potato Soup (Pink Peppercorn Hickory Nut Brittle)
Duck Liver Mousse (Cranberry Mostarda, Chestnuts, Baguette)
Arugula Salad (Bayley Hazen Blue Cheese, Almonds, Rosemary)
Potato Latke (Juniper Crème Fraîche, Caviar, Apple)
Butternut Squash Ravioli (Sage, Hazelnut, Brown Butter)
Main Courses
Free Range Turkey Roulade (Sage and Chestnut Dressing, Potato Purée, Gravy)
Maine Salmon (Pumpkin and Cranberry Couscous, Spiced Beurre Rouge)
Roasted Delicata Squash (Grit, Mushroom, Black Truffle Vinaigrette)
Roast Goose (Braised Winter Greens, Baby Turnip)
Painted Hills Sirloin (Sunchoke Puree, Glazed Carrots, Braised Short Rib)
Juniper Brined Mangalista Ham (Saurkraut, Local Apple)
Desserts
Bouche Noel
Pecan Pie
Chocolate Mousse Cake
Local Cheese Plate

Cost: $61 per person (does not include tax, beverages or 20% gratuity). $29 for optional wine pairing. A 20% Gratuity Will Be Automatically Added To Your Bill
Reservations are required and can be made by calling 617-723-7575.

4) On Saturday, December 14, from 10am-3pm, Santa Claus will be paying Harvard Square a special visit at the Beat Hôtel for its first annual family-friendly Santa brunch. Guests of the Santa Brunch can count on food and drink from Chef Rebecca Newell, live holiday music from Bailey Cunningham, photo opportunities and mingling and jingling with the big man himself...Santa Claus.

Executive Chef Rebecca Newell will serve a selection of brunch fare such as quiche made with spinach, kale, artichoke & feta served with frites & salad ($12), French toast with whipped cream and apple & pear compote ($12) and eggs benedict with choice of ham ($12) house smoked salmon ($13.50) or spinach ($12) while children can order scrumptious selections off the “Flower Children” menu including kiddie scrambled eggs & toast ($7.50), grilled cheese ($7.50) and French toast ($7.50).

While the little ones are running around with Santa, parents can sneak in one of Beat’s hand-crafted cocktails such as the Electric Sidecar, Clear Creek apple brandy, Fruit Lab orange organic liqueur and sour mix ($12) and Kir, Qupe Vinyard Chardonnay and Cassis ($12.5), or warm up with one of Beat’s 24 wines on tap, all available in 2.5 oz, 5oz, or 12oz pours. Singer and pianist Bailey Cunningham and her band will get everyone in the holiday spirit with a live performance featuring classic holiday tunes!

This is an event for kids of all ages. Santa will be available for photos opportunities, but cameras will not be provided. Reservations are highly recommended and can be made by calling 617-499-0001. Regular brunch pricing and specials offered. No cover charge.

5) Chef Chris Coombs and dbar host a monthly Wine Dinner Series features a four course menu designed to complement wine pairings from a different region of the world on the first Wednesday of every month. This December Wine Dinner pairs red wines with four courses of fresh, seasonal fair. Knowledgeable wine representatives will be on-site to guide guests through what promises to be a truly complementary evening of food and drink.

Menu: 
First Course
Duck Liver Pate, Grilled Bread, Fried Castelvetrano Olives, Pickled Red Onion & Golden Raisin Chutney
Scala Dei Negre 2010
Second Course
Perigord Black Truffle, Farro Risotto, Farm Egg, Ellsworth’s House Smoked Bacon
Chateau Dubourg Saint Emilion 2010
Entrée
Classic Beef Bourguignon
Matchbook Cabernet Sauvignon 2010
Dessert
Allison Lakins, Lakins Gorges Cheese, Opus 42, from Rockport, Maine / Accompaniments
Liar’s Dice Zinfandel 2009

When: Wednesday, December 4, at 7pm
Cost: $55/person not including tax and gratuity.
To make a reservation, please call 617-265-4490.

Portland, Wine & Feast Grand Tasting

My recent visit to Oregon ended in Portland, the largest city in the state, and a place that I really enjoy. On my last trip to Portland, I had a great time exploring the city, and continued my explorations again this time. Portland has an assortment of nicknames, including Rose City, Stumptown, Bridgetown, Puddletown, and Rivercity. Though the name "Portland" derives from Portland, Maine, the city almost became the second "Boston." Maybe that is why I feel a special affinity to Portland.

Back in 1843, Asa Lovejoy, who had been an attorney in Boston, Massachusetts before setting off to the Oregon Territory, acquired half of a claim to 640 acres on the Willamette River. Two years later, the co-owner sold his share to Francis Pettygrove. Asa and Francis wanted to name their new town but couldn't agree on a choice. Asa wanted to name it Boston while Francis wanted Portland. To decide between the two names, they left it up to a coin toss, a two out of three flip. Francis won, so the town was named Portland, and the coin is now held by the Oregon Historical Society.

Any food and wine lover, and actually any traveler to Portland, should make a stop at Powell's Books, the largest independent brick-and-mortar bookstore in the country. Their main store occupies an entire city block, has three floors, and nine, large color-coded rooms filled with new and used books of all types. They have a large section of food and wine books which is well worth checking out. I never fail to find something I want. You could spend several hours browsing through the entire store. On my last visit here, I found a few used books that I was seeking, and they were much cheaper than buying them online. And as it is an independent shop, and not some large chain, you can feel even better by supporting them.

Portland has become a hot spot for urban wineries, and it appears that only Seattle has more such wineries than Portland. Currently, there are at least 14 urban wineries in Portland, with more on their way. Some of those wineries include Helioterra Wines, Division Winemaking Company, Clay Pigeon Winery, Boedecker Cellars, and Vincent Wine Company. Though I didn't have time to visit any of these urban wineries, I was able to taste a few of their wines.

During dinner one evening, we ordered a bottle of 2009 Helioterra Willamette Valley Pinot Noir (the current release, 2011, is about $24 retail). Helioterra Wines was founded in 2009 by Anne Hubatch, who is also the winemaker. Originally from Wisconsin, she came to Oregon and found her passion for wine. The name of the winery derives from Heliolite, the state gemstone which is also known as Sun Stone, and Terra, the Greek word for "earth." Anne describes Helioterra wines as “a grounded, honest expression of her winemaking style, reflecting feminine sensibilities.” She produces Pinot Noir, Syrah, Mourvedre, Pinot Blanc, Melon de Bourgogne, and Pinot Noir Rosé.

The 2009 Helioterra Willamette Valley Pinot Noir was about $22 on its initial release and only 248 cases were made. It is a blend of Pinot Noir grapes from three Willamette Valley vineyards, including Apolloni Vineyard, Buckhaven Vineyard, and Domaine Coteau Vineyard. The light red colored wine had rich flavors of cherry and strawberry, with hints of lavender and herbs. It was an elegant and tasty Pinot, with plenty of depth of flavor and a satisfying finish. At this price point, it makes for a good value wine. As one of the first wines from this winery, I am intrigued to try some of Anne's newer wines. If you are in Portland, check out this urban winery.

During the time of my visit to Portland, they were celebrating Feast Portland: A Celebration of Oregon Bounty, an event which showcases "local culinary talent and Oregon ingredient" over the course of four days. Coupled with all the fun is a serious objective, to end childhood hunger. The event donates its net proceeds to two charities: No Kid Hungry-Share Our Strength and Partners for a Hunger-Free Oregon. Feast Portland holds numerous events, including several marquee events, a dinner series, tasting panels, a speaker series, and a brunch series. There is so much to do, all across the city, whatever your food and wine interests.

Due to time constraints, I only attended one of the events, the Oregon Bounty Grand Tasting on Friday, which was also held on Saturday. Held in Pioneer Courthouse Square, this event showcased dozens of local producers, of artisan foods, beers, wine and more. For example, there were over 12 breweries and 30 wineries represented here. Though it was a bit rainy, most of the event was under cover so the weather was not a serious issue. The event ran for five hours, and it was only during the second half that it started getting crowded.

Overall, it was a fun and tasty event, with much to please your palate. It also seemed to be well organized and I didn't notice any significant problems. I'm going to highlight some of my favorite foods and wines from the event, though realize there was plenty more that I haven't mentioned or didn't have the opportunity to taste.

My favorite new food find was the Brazi Bites, a type of pão de queijo, or Brazilian cheese bun. The Brazi Bites are all natural, with no preservatives or artificial ingredients, and they are gluten free as well. Their basic ingredients include cheddar, parmesan, water, safflower oil, milk, eggs, salt, and tapioca starch. There are currently three flavors, including Original, Bacon and Jalapeno, and they are sold in 20 count packages for about $5.99. They are not yet available on the East Coast but hope to make them available around Spring 2014.

Easy to prepare, you just take them out of the freezer and bake in the oven. I tasted all three flavors, and stopped by the table multiple times to sample more of them because they were so good. They were light, with a crispy exterior but a soft and chewy interior, with plenty of cheese flavor. The Bacon added a salty and slightly smoky flavor while the Jalapeno added a spicy kick to the finish. This makes for an addictive snack or appetizer, so easy to just pop one after another into your mouth. And for a gluten free snack, these are a great option which doesn't sacrifice taste in the least.

On my last visit to Portland, I was impressed with the creative ice cream flavors from Salt & Straw, and they brought some intriguing flavors to the Grand Tasting, from Hawaiian PB&J to Loaded Baked Potato. I loved the Coconut Milk with Cashew Brittle & Pandan Chiles which had bits of crystalized pineapple and a nice spicy kick on the finish. Creamy and crunchy, the ice cream had plenty of harmonious flavors and I would highly recommend it. The Mint & Sea Urchin ice cream sounded promising, but it was a bit of a letdown as the mint seemed to overpower the briny sea urchin flavor. I wanted more sea urchin flavor, which I think could work with the sweet but maybe something other than the mint would be a better accompanying flavor. If you visit Portland, you need to stop by Salt & Straw.

Tillamook Cheese has a great reputation, as well as a lengthy history in Oregon, over 100 years. Some of their products are available on the East Coast, though their ice cream is not available here yet. They are best known for their cheddar cheese and I have enjoyed some of their cheeses on several occasions. At the Grand Tasting, they offered grilled cheese sandwiches, made with Sharp Cheddar Cheese and Monterey Jack. The cheese melted well, was creamy and flavorful, and made for a damn good grilled sandwich. Simple but tasty.

Nicky USA is a purveyor of meat, poultry and game from family-owned and sustainable farms & ranches across the Northwest. You'll find everything from elk to turkey, venison to duck. They also sell over 10 different types of sausage, and they offered a few of these at the Grand Tasting, including the Sardinian Sausage (nice and spicy), the Toulose Sausage (meaty and juicy) and the Garlic-Black Pepper Uncured Salami (spice and lots of flavor).

Van Duzer Vineyards, founded in 1998 and located in the Willamette Valley, has 82 acres of sustainable vines and primarily produces Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris. The 2012 Pinot Noir Rose ($18) was lightly pink, dry and crisp, with nice flavors of strawberries and raspberries. An easy drinking wine, appropriate for year round drinking. Their 2010 Pinot Noir Estate ($32) is made from a blend of Pinot Noir clones, has an alcohol content of 12.9%, and presents a light, smooth and pleasant taste. Bright cherries, vanilla, and hints of spice on the finish.

Boedecker Cellars is an urban winery in Portland, owned and operated by Stewart and Athena (pictured above) Boedecker. They started the winery in 2003, currently produce about 8500 cases, and the wine is available in Massachusetts. Though they make Pinot Noir, they each have their own different preferences with Stewart enjoying more elegance and subtlety while Athena enjoys more richer, earthier and muscular Pinot. I got to taste both wines, and preferred Athena's Pinot. The 2010 Stewart Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, ($34) is elegant and smooth, with bright red fruit flavors, a mild vanilla, and slight herbal notes. A very nice wine which is likely to appeal to most wine lovers. The 2010 Athena Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, ($34) possesses its own elegance, but is more dark and brooding, with black fruit accents, rustic earthiness and dark spices. Plenty of complexity, a lengthy finish and it would pair perfectly with roast lamb. Highly recommended.

Division Winemaking Company is another urban winery, and their first wines are from the 2010 vintage. They primarily make Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Gamay. I enjoyed their 2012 Chardonnay ($21), which had been bottled only a couple days before and only 115 cases were produced. The wine was barrel fermented and aged for about 10 months in 20% new French Oak, 60% neutral French Oak & 20% stainless steel. Crisp and clean, it possessed bright apple, pear and vanilla flavors with a nice richness to it, and hints of herbal notes. A very good value for this complex and delicious wine.

Apolloni Vineyards is a family owned vineyard, founded in 1999, in the Willamette Valley, which specializes in Pinot Noir and Italian-style wines. I found excellent value in the 2011 Pinot Blanc ($15), which sees no oak and has an alcohol content of 12.5%. It is crisp and fruity, delicious pear and citrus, with some minerality, especially on the finish. Easy drinking but with plenty of character for the price. Great on its own or paired with food.  

Penner-Ash Wine Cellars, which started producing wines in 1998, now makes about 9000 cases of wine annually. They recently purchased Dussin Vineyard, which is now their estate vineyard. Their 2012 Viognier ($30) sees only stainless steel and presents plenty of crisp, fruit flavors including peach, orange and lemon. It wasn't overly aromatic and its clean flavors make it delicious on its own. The 2011 Estate Dussin Vineyard Pinot Noir ($60) certainly showcases the wonders of this vineyard, presenting an elegant Pinot with a delightful balance of acidity, fruit and spice, with plenty of complexity and depth of flavor. A Pinot to slowly savor and enjoy.

My Favorite Fiction Books of 2013

Back in December 2011, I started a blog column, Authors, Alcohol & Accolades, which asked some of my favorite authors about their preferred drinks, both alcoholic and nonalcoholic. There have been 9 editions of this column so far, with a 10th column coming in the near future. The inspiration for this series is that I am a voracious reader, of both fiction and nonfiction, and I wanted to combine that interest with my love of food & drink. The series has proven popular and it has been fascinating to explore what authors enjoy drinking.

As a special year-end addendum to that series, I'm going to post a list of my Favorite Fiction Books of 2013. This list will include books of Science Fiction, Fantasy, Horror and Mystery/Thriller. Please note that some books don't easily fit into a specific genre, and straddle the line between two or more, though I have placed them into one category. Nearly all of these books were published in 2013, except for a few which generally were published at the end of 2012, but which I didn't read until this year. The books are also not in any specific order of preference.

All of these books would make great holiday gifts for others, or even yourself. Support an author, a small, independent business person, and buy more books.

SCIENCE FICTION

1) Extinction Machine by Jonathan Maberry. The latest book in the Joe Ledger series, dealing with UFOs and aliens. The Ledger books are packed full of breakneck action and thrills, and you'll race through them. James Bond has it easy compared to Ledger. Check out the entire series while I wait for next year's Ledger book, Code Zero.
2) The Lives of Tao by Wesley Chu. An alien invasion, alternate history, espionage, humor and more. There is lots to praise about this exciting book and I'll soon delve into the recently published sequel, The Deaths of Tao. An excellent debut novel.
3) Fear & Anger by Shawn Kupfer. The third book in the 47 Echo series is a gritty, action-packed thriller dealing with a future war against China. And there is even a character in the book named after me because I won a prior contest. Even without that, it is a very cool book.
4) The Human Division by John Scalzi. Set in the Old Man's War universe, this book was originally serialized so almost reads like a series of interconnected short stories. Fascinating situations, intriguing mysteries and Scalzi's prose elevate this book.
5) Doc Savage: Skull Island by Will Murray. Doc Savage meets King Kong? Yes, it is an epic encounter that should not be missed. Murray has been penning a number of new Doc Savage adventures and this has been my favorite by far.
6) Steelheart by Brian Sanderson. This book creates a fascinating near future with superheroes, with some intriguing twists and a compelling setting. Though labeled as YA, it will appeal to adults as well. Looking forward to the sequel.

FANTASY

1) Promise of Blood by Brian McClellan. Making a stunning debut, McClellan's book is flintlock fantasy, dealing with the aftermath of a military coup. A magic system involving gun powder, an intricate plot, great characters (including a chef!), and lots of exciting twists. This ranks as one of my top favorite books of the year and McClellan has also written two short stories in this setting which are also worth checking out. I'm very anxious for the sequel, The Crimson Campaign, due out in February. A Must Read!
2) The Six Gun Tarot by R.S. Belcher. A weird western with Steampunk elements, this is a sheer pleasure to read with an exotic collection of strange characters, horror elements, and plenty of action. The west has never been stranger.
3) No Return by Zachary Jernigan. An interesting blend of SF and fantasy, this mythic book will remind you of the works of Zelazny. An epic and inventive book about astronauts, wizards, gods, arena battles, ancient secrets, and so much more. A sequel is in the works.
4) The Flames of Shadam Khoreh by Bradley Beaulieu. This is the conclusion to The Lays of Anuskaya trilogy, making a fitting ending to a complex and unique fantasy saga. Lots of depth to this trilogy, it isn't an easy read but will richly reward a patient reader.
5) A Discourse in Steel by Paul Kemp. A new Egil & Nix adventure, this is a pure fun tale of sword & sorcery, which will bring to mind the sagas of Leiber. An exciting page turner, this book won't fail to please.
6) The Thousand Names by Django Wexler. This debut is the first book of The Shadow Campaigns, and is a detailed military fantasy, with an interesting setting, detailed characters, and lots of martial action.
7) The Big Reap by Chris Holm. The third book of The Collector series is a noirish tale of battles between angels and demons, ramping up the stakes from the prior two volumes. A smartly written tale, it is fun and thrilling, and will make you desire more Collector books.
8) Emperor of Thorns by Mark Lawrence. The concluding novel of the controversial Broken Empire trilogy doesn't disappoint in the least. I've loved these books and Lawrence has provided a very satisfying conclusion. A Must Read trilogy.
9) The Bones of the Old Ones by Howard Andrew Jones. A sequel to Desert of Souls, these books are sword and sorcery set in 8th century Baghdad. With their more unique setting, compelling characters, and exciting thrills, these are thrilling and well written tales and I eagerly await the next saga.
10) Wolfhound Century by Peter Higgins. A fascinating, alternate Soviet history with angels leads to a unique book that is urban fantasy, mystery, and mythic saga. Very cool.

HORROR

1) Violet Eyes by John Everson. A creepy tale of deadly spiders, this is a visceral tale of horror that might keep you up at night. Its intensity will keep you reading, from one shocking scene to another.
2) American Elsewhere by Robert Jackson Bennett. A mythic horror tale, this seems almost like a blend of King and Barker, with a bit of Lovecraft tossed in. Lots of depths to this tale, this is a very satisfying read, showing that Bennett just keeps writing better novels.
3) Doctor Sleep by Stephen King. This superb sequel to The Shining, is a return to the eerie tales of the early works of King. I haven't been too keen on many of King's newer works, but this impressed me and is a worthy sequel. Highly recommended.
4) Of Fever & Blood and The First Blood by S. Cedric. You may not have heard of these French books, the Inspector Svärta supernatural thrillers, but you should know about them. Well written, intriguing tales, and set in France, they meld police procedural and the supernatural well.
5) Splatterlands edited by Grey Matter Press. This collection of horror short stories pushes boundaries and may disturb you, but they are well written tales which are worthy of attention. Good horror should unsettle you and these stories accomplish that objective.
6) Reanimators by Peter Rawlik. A love letter to Lovecraft, this novel spans many years of history with numerous cool nods to Lovecraft's characters and settings. Reanimation of the dead was never so much fun, or horrifying.
7) NOS2A2 by Joe Hill. Making Christmas creepy, Hill has written a compelling & lengthy novel, which will keep your attention throughout. A terrific villain, a fascinating concept, and an admirable heroine, make this a must read.
8) Terminus by Adam Baker. Starting with the nuking of NYC, the intensity of this book doesn't let up. It involves zombies but is far more about the living and survival. You can feel the tension on every page.
9) The Twelve Fingered Boy by John Honor Jacobs. Another YA novel that is appropriate for adults as well, it involves a teenager with special powers, as well as 12 fingers, who is being pursued, after fleeing from juvie, by a mysterious adult. It is an easy and suspenseful read, and will make you eager to read the sequel.
10) I Travel By Night by Robert McCammon. This weird western novella, set in New Orleans, involves a reluctant vampire who fights evil, and seeks redemption. Very well written, this is a compelling story and you'll wish it were even longer.

MYSTERY/THRILLER

1) The Hard Bounce by Todd Robinson. This quasi-PI book is full of action and twists, with plenty of humor as well. And as it is set in Boston, that makes it even more compelling. An excellent debut novel.
2) The Black Widow Club by Hilary Davidson. A collection of short stories about murder and revenge, obsession and adultery. Women take center place in these dark and twisted tales, and Davidson weaves plenty of fascinating stories.
3) Japantown by Barry Lancet. An intricate murder mystery with an intimate connection to Japan, this is another thrilling and powerful debut that is sure to thrill and entertain.  Highly recommended.
4) Leverage: The Con Job by Matt Forbeck. Based on the Leverage TV series, this novel is set at Comic-Con, and Forbeck does an excellent job getting the TV characters right, and creating a compelling mystery and con job for those characters. A fun read.
5) Murder as a Fine Art by David Morrell. I've long been a fan of Morrell and his latest work doesn't disappoint. This is a historical thriller, well researched, which provides an intriguing murder and mystery. Morrell remains in top form.
6) Evil and the Mask by Fuminori Nakamura. This novel has a fantastic premise, a family tradition of raising a child to be a "cancer," to be a harbinger of misery. What happens when one of those children resists? A thought provoking and thrilling read. Highly recommended.
7) Tell No Lies by Gregg Hurwitz. I have also long been a fan of Hurwitz, and his newest book is a thriller of an ordinary man battling extraordinary circumstances. Suspenseful and engaging, you'll be glued to this book until the end.
8) American Death Songs by Jordan Harper. A collection of intense and hard core, crime short stories. Gritty tales that delve into the darker aspects of man.

Illahe, Matello & Johan in the Willamette Valley

After spending a few days in Southern Oregon, we moved north into the Willamette Valley, the most well known Oregon AVA. Willamette Valley accounts for roughly 79% of Oregon wine production, and there are over 300 wineries and 600 vineyards. Pinot Noir is by far the most planted grape, with over 11,000 acres, and accounts for 88% of production in the state. The second most planted grape, Pinot Gris, only occupies about 2400 acres and the third most planted grape, Chardonnay, occupies about 725 acres. Pinot Noir may be king, but there are other intriguing wines being made in this region as well, albeit in small quantities.

On one of our winery visits, we stopped for lunch and a tasting at Illahe Vineyards, and were joined by representatives of Matello Wines and Johan Vineyards. It was a beautiful day and we sat outside, overlooking the vineyards, with plenty of bottles on the table. Casual and fun, it was also informative and tasty, with some unique surprises among the wines. Small producers creating some intriguing wines.

Our hosts from Illahe Vineyards were Brad Ford, the winemaker, and Bethany Ford, the national sales manager. Back in 1999, Lowell Ford, Brad's father, purchased the Illahe property, which at that time was merely a pasture for a grass fed-beef ranch. Lowell started as a winegrower in 1983, so purchasing land to create his own winery was a natural extension of his career. The estate is about 80 acres with 55 currently under vine, most with Pinot Noir though you can also find Riesling, Pinot Gris, Gruner Veltliner, Tempranillo and Viognier. The word "Illahe" is from the language of the Chinook, a Native American people who once inhabited the area and it means "land, earth or soil." The symbol on their label, which partially looks like an "S" on its side, is the word "Illahe" in Duployan, a script for the Chinook language.

They aim to make wine as natural as possible, from their sustainable vineyard to the winery. For example, they use two Percheron draft horses to mow and transport grapes from the vineyard. They do not fine or filter their wines, and often use native fermentation, despite that it can be scary and risky, because they feel it adds something special to the wines. They are always seeking ways to improve their operation, and are working on some intriguing projects currently, including creating a sparkling wine from Pinot Noir. At the time of our visit, they hadn't harvested much yet.

We began our tasting with white wines and Illahe line prices all of their whites at $15, making them a good value and within the every-day price range of many consumers.

Currently, only their Viognier is not estate grown. Back in 2007, they purchased a truck of Viognier grapes and it ended up becoming their most popular white wine. They have planted some Viognier now and eventually may not need to purchase any for their needs. The 2012 Viognier is a different style from many of those in Southern Oregon, with higher acidity and more residual sugar. The aromatics were a bit more muted, with pleasing fruit flavors and only hints of sweetness due to the higher acidity. I would like to try this wine with some spicy Asian dishes.

Gruner Veltliner was first planted in Oregon around 1978, and Illahe got their cuttings from Johan Vineyards. The 2011 Gruner Veltliner was destemmed and fermented in Acacia barrels, and it presents an easy drinking and delicious wine. Crisp and clean, it has rich flavors of citrus and grapefruit, with slight honey notes and hints of minerality. Definite recommendation.

The 2012 Pinot Gris, fermented in 1600 gallon oak barrels, had a compelling aroma and its taste fulfilled the promise of the nose. Pleasant apple and pears flavors, nice acidity and a good, lengthy finish. Plenty of character for the price, I highly recommend this wine. Drink it alone or with food, and you won't be disappointed.

Illahe produces several different Pinot Noirs, at varying price points, and you can't go wrong with any of them. The 2012 Willamette Valley Pinot Noir ($20), which was just released last month, is their entry level Pinot and I have long been a fan. This is their highest production wine, at 2000 cases, and Massachusetts is actually their best market outside of Oregon. I know that the wine sells well at Beacon Hill Wine & Gourmet, where I work part time. The wine is produced with some native fermentation, 15% new oak and has an alcohol content of 14%. It has a light red color, and is smooth and flavorful, with bright red fruit, a spicy undertone and hints of earth. An excellent value at this price, delivering plenty of flavor and complexity, it is highly recommended.

The 2010 Bon Sauvage Pinot Noir ($28) is made from 100% native fermentation and only has an alcohol content of 13%. Complex and intriguing, the fruit flavors are a bit muted with more prominent spice and earthiness notes. Silky smooth, with a long & satisfying finish, this presents a compelling choice at this price point. The 2011 Pinot Noir Reserve ($40) is aged for 18-20 months in 50% new French oak, as well as one Oregon barrel, and has an alcohol content of 13%. This wine elevates the complexity, presenting a fine balance of fruit, spice and earth with hints of eucalyptus. A wine to slowly savor, enjoying its depths of flavor.

Their most unique and experimental Pinot is the 2011 "Project 1899" Pinot Noir ($65), which is their first vintage of this wine. The wine is essentially produced without electricity. It is hand pumped and hand racked by candle. It is produced with 100% native fermentation, 50% whole cluster, and only 75 cases were made. It reminds me most of the Pinot Noir Reserve, but it possesses some unusual taste elements, which were hard to identify. They were pleasant flavors, just more unique and maybe more on the earthier side. Very intriguing taste which should tantalize any wine lover. They recently created a bicycle pump, and are making a wood-fired kiln so they can produce amphora. They have already made a 50 gallon one, but their goal is to make larger ones and no other local kiln is large enough so they have to make their own. I look forward to future incarnations of this wine.

On a previous visit to Oregon, I met Marcus Goodfellow from Matello Wines, and you can read some background on his winery at my prior post. Marcus now produces about 3500 cases, broken down into 14 wines, priced at $18-$45. It was a pleasure to see him again, and try more of his different wines.

The 2011 Viognier Deux Vert Vineyards, aged in Acacia and neutral French oak, is bright and crisp, with pleasant citrus and melon flavors. The 2011 Pinot Gris, aged on the lees for 18 months, has a nice richness and complexity, with delicious flavors of melon, pear and lemon. The 2011 Richard's Cuvee Chardonnay is crisp and clean, with am strong mineral backbone and fresh apple and citrus flavors. Much more French in style than California. A strong showing for his white wines.

The 2011 Lazarus Pinot Noir ($22), the entry level Pinot, is a mix of grapes from six vineyards and presents with bright red fruit flavors and good acidity. An easy drinking wine, with or without food. The 2011 Whistling Ridge Vineyard Pinot Noir has less up front fruit, and is more a brooding wine, with spicy and earthy notes. I think this might benefit from some aging and shows potential for interesting development. The 2011 Durant Vineyard Pinot Noir ($40) is made with some 40 year old grapes and is a more elegant and softer Pinot. It has more earthy notes, as well as some minerality. Complex, intriguing and delicious. An excellent choice.

Johan Vineyards was founded around 2005 by Dag Johan Sundby, a native Norwegian, who sought to make Pinot Noir. The estate comprises about 85 acres, and their vineyards are certified Biodynamic and organic. Growing around 9 grapes, they produce about 2000 cases annually. We met Daniel Rinke (pictured above) who is the winemaker at Johan. With experience at vineyards in California, Daniel came to Johan in 2007.

The 2012 Gruner Veltliner ($24), which has not yet been released and was bottled one month ago, was crisp, clean and dry with pleasant citrus, pear and herbal flavors. A very satisfying wine, this would be good on its own or with food. What really intrigued me though was their 2011 Blaufrankisch ($36), and there is only one other producer of this grape in Oregon (and they call it Lemberger). They only produced 50 cases and it has an alcohol content of only 12%, which is nice to see. The wine possessed a meaty taste, with a nice melange of red and black fruits, dusty spices and some herbal notes. Its savory and intriguing nature would pair well with game meats or lamb.

Rant: Whites Make Food Taste Better

A recent Canadian study has found that whites tend to make food possess increased ratings of sweetness, intensity, quality and likeability. The study focused on cheesecake, and color was not the only factor considered. Shape was also an added element.

This is not about race. This is about plating.

In the study, cheesecake was served on four different types of plates: white & round, white & square, black & round, and black & square. The white & round plate seemed to be the most popular, increasing the perceived sweetness and intensity of the cheesecake, as well as its perceived quality and likeability. The reasons behind this conclusion are still unknown, though there are suspicions as to the reasons. The mere fact of its existence though should be considered by chefs and home cooks.

When plating a dessert, do you want it to seem sweeter than it is? Or do you want to mute some of its sweetness? Do you want to make it seem more intense, or less intense? When considering the answers to those questions, your choice of plating is an important factor. There is a reason why white plates are so common at most restaurants. Beside the aesthetic issues, it can affect how customers perceive the food.

However, the study's conclusions also found that black & square plates increased perceived quality and likeability too, though not sweetness and intensity. That would seem to indicate that they might not be the best choice for plating for dessert, but for savory appetizers and entrees, they should be able to improve your customer's perceptions of the food. Some chefs feel that black is most appropriate for strong cuisines or themes, especially Asian.

What about blue plates or green plates? Rectangular or triangular plates? The study did not address those issues though additional research on different colored & shaped plates will likely be conducted in the future.

The key to understand is that a restaurant experience involves far more than just food quality and service. There are also subtle factors involved, which patrons may not even realize play a role in their perception of their meals. Restaurants need to pay attention to every detail, as they never know what might or might not affect their patrons. Even something as simple as the shape and color of a plate plays its role. You ignore such details at your peril.