Pirate Fishermen: No Peglegs Nor Parrots

During the 17th and early 18th centuries, pirate ships threatened ships that traveled the waters of the Caribbean. Pirates still exist, and sometimes they still threaten ships, such as those pirates that operate off the coast of Somalia. However, there are other pirates who threaten another valuable target, the fish of the seven seas. I don't think the average person understands the vast scope of this piracy problem, and the harms that it causes.  

I previously wrote about the problem of piracy and the Patagonian Toothfish, aka Chilean Sea Bass. Pirates were decimating the population of this species, caring only about the money they received for the fish. Fortunately, united efforts were successful in combating this dire threat and now it is a relatively minor issue. Toothfish is but a single example of the many species that face peril, illustrative of the general threat posed by these pirate fishermen. Officially, pirate fishing is referred to as Illegal, Unregulated & Unreported (IUU) fishing. How widespread is this problem? Is it a large enough problem that warrants our action?

In an upcoming issue of Marine Policy (September 2014), a thought provoking study will be published, Estimates of Illegal and Unreported Fish in Seafood Imports to the USA, authored by Ganapathiraju Pramod, Katrina Nakamura, Tony J. Pitcher and Leslie Delagran. Their stunning conclusion is that from 20% to 32% of wild-caught seafood imports to the US come from IUU fishing. That is astounding and should concern us all. This is also a problem faced all across the globe, and not just in the U.S.

These pirate fishermen ignore laws and restrictions on where they can fish, what they can fish, and how much they can fish. All they are concerned with is maximizing profits, ignoring whatever harms they cause in the process. They pose a danger to threatened species, which may be overfished and which laws have been instituted to protect. They pose a danger to the environment of the sea, to marine ecosystems, by using illegal gear which can harm the bottom of the sea, destroy reefs and much more. They hurt the livelihood of legal fishermen, who operate within the bounds of the law. This is the poaching of the seas and needs to be stopped.

Why does so much of this IUU seafood enter the U.S.? The difficulty in tracking this illegally acquired seafood is due to an often incredibly complex supply chain which allows multiple occasions when such illegal seafood can be snuck into that chain. This is especially true when seafood is processed post-harvest, in a different country from where the fish was first obtained. All of the various middlemen and post-harvest travels are ample opportunity for illegal obtained seafood to be "laundered," like illegal money.

Currently, the U.S. government doesn't do enough to stop this importation of IUU seafood. The Lacey Act, which has been in existence for over 100 years, provides a mechanism to punish those engaged in the trade of IUU seafood. However, you cannot reach the point of punishment until you first detect that such IUU seafood exists. And in that respect, the U.S.'s efforts are insufficient. A tiny portion of seafood imports, maybe only 2%, are inspected, but that is more for food safety and species identification rather than checking whether it is illegal or not. As such, plenty of IUU seafood is going to continue entering the U.S.

A primary solution to this problem is more traceability in the seafood supply chain, being able to determine exactly the chain of custody so you know exactly the source of the seafood. We need to be able to determine the precise source of all seafood entering the U.S. as well as determine everywhere that it travels before it reaches the U.S. The government should take steps to require traceability from all seafood that enters the country. Consumers should demand traceability in the seafood they consume. Traceability is a hot topic in the seafood industry and it is becoming more and more common, but there is obviously much more that needs to be done.

I should also note that a contributing factor to this entire problem is that the U.S. currently imports a disturbing 91% of their seafood. Consumers need to purchase and consume much more local seafood. That should help to decrease the amount of IUU seafood that enters the U.S. Though IUU fishing does occurs within the U.S., it is to a much smaller degree than it is internationally and the U.S. is better able to combat and monitor the problem. So, rather than roll the die on imported seafood, which could be IUU, choose local.

Pirates have been a scourge of the seas for many centuries, and we still need to unite to combat them.

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I am back again with a new edition of Thursday Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting wine and food items that are upcoming. **********************************************************
1) The Chefs Table Foundation and The Jamaica Plain Tuesday Club, both non-profit organizations, have partnered to bring the Neighborhood Cooking Tours of Jamaica Plain, a culinary tour of Jamaica Plain. The Chefs’ Table Series TV Show will film the chefs of four restaurants teaching a live audience how to cook a delicious dish. Proceeds from each cooking tour will benefit the non-profits. These events will take place at the Loring-Greenough House, at 12 South Street, Jamaica Plain.

Guest will watch co-host & trained chef Joe Murphy cook along with the featured chef of the week, enjoy a wine pairing, tasting of the chef’s dish, and be part of a live studio taping of The Chefs’ Table Series. A raffle will also be part of the festivities.

These events will take place on Mondays in June, starting at 6:15pm:
June 9th: The Haven
June 16th: Sanctuary
June 23rd: Bella Luna Restaurant & The Milky Way Lounge
June 30th: El Oriental de Cuba
Menus will be announced on website.

Tickets are $40 per person, and must be purchased in advance. There are no food substitutions. All guests must be in their seats by 6:15pm. All electronic devices must be turned off so not to interfere with the sound and filming of the show. It is estimated that the taping of the cooking segment, wine pairing, opening of the show, and guests enjoying wine and food will be 2 hours the most.

Tickets can be purchased by visiting: http://www.tablecritic.com/neighborhood-cooking-tours-in-jamaica-plain/ or by calling 617-323-0670.

2) On June 10, at 6:30pm, Legal Sea Foods in Park Square will host a wine dinner with Sonoma-Cutrer. Since the vineyard’s inception in 1973, Sonoma-Cutrer has been producing wine. Its foundation is built in the hillsides and rocky foothills in the region recognized as the Sonoma Coast Appellation. The region experiences long, even growing, seasons thanks to the cool, foggy coastal climate. Today, Sonoma-Cutrer’s flagship wine, Russian River Ranches, is one of the most requested Chardonnays in America.

Legal Sea Foods will team up with Winemaking Director, Mick Schroeter, to host an exclusive four-plus-course dinner paired with his selections from the Sonoma-Cutrer vine. The menu will be presented as follows:

HORS D’OEUVRES
Citrus Swordfish, Green Apple, Orange Glaze
Prosciutto Wrapped Shrimp, Aged Balsamic Glaze
Salt Cod Cakes, Lemon, Saffron Aioli
Sonoma-Cutrer “Russian River Ranches” Chardonnay, Sonoma Coast, 2012
FIRST COURSE
Yuzu Halibut Filet (Citrus, Watercress, Cucumber Salad, Honey-Mint Vinaigrette)
Sonoma-Cutrer “Les Pierres” Chardonnay, Sonoma Coast, 2011
SECOND COURSE
Braised Alaskan King Crab Legs (Fried Enoki Mushrooms, Baby Mache)
Sonoma-Cutrer “Founders Reserve” Chardonnay, Russian River Valley, 2003
THIRD COURSE
Hickory Wood Grilled Wild Salmon (Green Puy Lentil Ragout, Porcini à la Bordelaise)
Sonoma-Cutrer Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley, 2011
DESSERT COURSE
Anjou Pear Crostata (Honey Mascarpone Cheese, Marcona Almonds)
Sonoma-Cutrer “Late Harvest” Chardonnay, Russian River Valley, 2012

COST: $95 per person (excludes tax & gratuity)
Reservation required by calling 617-530-9397

Sake Confidential: John Gauntner's New Book

"For starters, one need to know very little about sake to begin to appreciate it." (p.5)

There are approximately a dozen or so books, available in English, about Sake and many of them are very similar. They provide basic information about Sake and also give some Sake recommendations. Sake articles in magazines are uncommon, and most provide only basic knowledge about Sake, introductory primers to educate consumers. It is more difficult to find advanced information about Sake, information that goes beyond the basics and generalities. Fortunately, a new book has just been published which addresses this omission.

"While simply drinking sake may be pleasurable enough, getting under the hood and learning more about sake— including some of the more controversial and otherwise fascinating aspects of the sake world—makes the experience even more enjoyable." (p.6)

If you have any interest in Sake, then you should check out Sake Confidential: A Beyond-the-Basics Guide to Understanding, Tasting, Selection, and Enjoyment (Stone Bridge Press, May 2014, $11.95) by John Gauntner, the famed Sake expert and Sake Dendoushi ("Evangelist"). This is a trade paperback book of 184 pages, divided into three parts: Sake Secrets, How The Industry Really Works, and The Brewer's Art Revealed. The book begins with a 14 page Introduction, which is a basic education about Sake, relying on numerous generalities to get across the message. After the Introduction, you will find over 24 chapters, covering a broad array of more advanced Sake topics.

"Let’s face it: there is almost no bad sake out there anymore. Nothing properly cared for will make you cringe. There are, of course, factors that make one sake good but another great." (p.11-12)

Though this book deals with more advanced Sake topics, it is well written in an easily understood manner so that it will appeal to readers of any knowledge level. You do not even need to possess a foundation in Sake to appreciate this book as the Introduction provides you all you need to progress to the more advanced topics. I previously attended John's Sake Professional Course and found him to be an excellent and engaging instructor, and that comes out in this new book. John shares his extensive knowledge of Sake, going beyond the generalities many know and breaking down some of the myths and misconceptions about Sake.

"Ask about a sake, take a chance, taste and smell it for yourself, and note your observations. Not only is this the best way, it is surely the only dependable way to assess a sake." (p.44)

In the first section, Sake Secrets, John goes into greater detail about Sake types and styles such as Junmai, Namazake, Ginjo, Kimoto, and Tokubetsu. Instead of providing one line definitions of these terms, he devotes a few pages to each term, explaining in detail some of their nuances. He then does the same for Sake ingredients such as water and yeast, as well as touching on warmed Sake and regionality. Within each fascinating chapter, you may find something about the history of the topic, as well as insider information about the current status of the Sake industry. In addition, in each chapter, John recommends a specific Sake which he feels well illustrates the topic of that chapter. These Sakes should mostly be available in the U.S.

"If it tastes good to you to you, it is good. The one that tastes the best to you is the best." (p.48)

In the next section, How The Industry Really Works, John discusses some specifics about the Sake industry, such as the role of women in breweries, Sake pricing, rice milling and Sake awards. These are generally issues which are rarely written about, so this is an especially compelling section. You'll learn compelling facts such as less than half the Sake breweries are reasonably profitable, and almost 90% of those breweries are family owned. These are some of the most interesting chapters in the book as give people a closer look into the Japanese Sake industry. In addition, this section has chapters on what glassware to use with Sake, as well as pairing Sake with food, and both chapters are informative and enlightening.

"On a more practical level, sake truly does go well with a wide range of food." (p.139)

The final section,The Brewer's Art Revealed, is the briefest of the three, with only three chapters on the art of Sake brewing. They discuss koji making (basically a mold which turns starch into yeast), the Toji (the master Sake brewer) and brewing different grades of Sake. These are also intriguing chapters, giving you a better idea of the difficulties and complexities of Sake brewing. The importance of koji, the duties of a toji, brewing guilds, and the seasonal aspect of brewing. So many cool and geeky topics.

"By far the most important thing you can do is keep close to sake and continue tasting." (p.172)

There are actually a few brief and informative chapters at the end of the book, separate from the three main sections. First, there is Developing Your Sake-Tasting Ability, with advice on how to taste Sake in a more professional manner, honing your tasting ability, which is known as kikizake-noryoku. It isn't necessary to go this far in your Sake tasting, but it is good that the information is there if you want it. It might lead you to a deeper appreciation of this wondrous brew. Next, there is Expanding Your Knowledge, some advice on gaining more Sake knowledge. Finally, there is a Glossary with definitions of many Sake terms.

"It can and should be said that sake embodies the culture of Japan itself." (p.174)

Readers will appreciate that though John has plenty of Sake opinions and preferences, he doesn't try to impose them on anyone else. There is no pretension here. He simply wants people to taste Sake and develop their own preferences. Overall, this is an informative and fascinating Sake book which I highly recommend. It fills a needed niche for a Sake book that goes beyond the basics, but still is approachable by even the casual reader or newbie to Sake. Even those knowledgeable to Sake are likely to learn at least a few things from this book. Buy this book and read it while sipping a glass of Sake. Kanpai!

"Enjoy sake sensibly and responsibly!" (p.2)

Del Terruño Beef & Wine Pairings

Which country is #1 in beef consumption? You might suspect that it is Argentina, where the asado, essentially barbecued meat, is the national dish. I've visited Argentina and had the pleasure to savor juicy and flavorful asado beef and other meats. I can understand their great affection for grilled meats. A few years ago, you would be correct in thinking that Argentina consumed more beef, per capita, than any other country. However, they have recently been displaced by another South American country, Uruguay.

Tucked away in the southeastern region of South America, surrounded by Argentina, Brazil and the Atlantic Ocean, the small country of Uruguay has only about 3.3 million people, which is less than the population of Greater Boston. Around 1603, cattle were first introduced to the country by Hernando Arias de Saavedra, the Spanish Governor of Buenos Aires. Today, there are approximately 12 million cattle in the country, nearly 4 for each person. Almost 80% of their beef is exported, to more than 80 countries, and they are starting to make their mark in the U.S.

Back in 1956, the people of Argentina were consuming around 222 pounds of beef per capita but that has now decreased to around 129 pounds, a drastic reduction of nearly 100 pounds. Uruguay has now taken first place, consuming about 132 pounds of beef per capita. In comparison, U.S. beef consumption is only about 58 pounds, less than half what Uruguayans consume. Do Uruguayans know something that we do not?

Back in February, at the Boston Wine Expo, I had the opportunity to sample some Uruguayan beef from Del Terruño, and I was impressed enough that it was one of my top three food finds at the Expo. A couple weeks ago, Del Terruño sent me a sample tenderloin so that I could cook it myself and get a better sense of their beef's taste. As you can see from the photos, I ended up grilling the tenderloin.

Del Terruño, which means "from my small corner of the earth," sells free range, grass fed beef from Uruguay. The company has been around for about 5-6 years, and have been concentrating their sales efforts in the northeast region of the U.S., especially New England. The company derives their product from 8 cattle ranches, and the company also includes cooperative land owners, breeders, scientists, technology specialists and more. They are doing more than just selling beef, but are trying to do so in a more ecologically responsible and traceable manner.

The cattle, Hereford and Aberdeen Angus breeds, are raised in open fields, each animal possessing over 3 acres where they can graze. They eat only grass, and are not fed corn or any grain at any time. This is especially important to people who wish to avoid consuming cattle which have eaten GMO corn. The area where the ranches are located have relatively mild temperatures year round. No antibiotics, hormones, or steroids are ever used. The cattle are generally slaughtered when they are 18-36 months old. The ranches adhere to responsible environmental practices and the beef is intended to be as natural as possible. It is also important to know that the beef has excellent traceability, and each package possesses the information to track it back to the original animal.

This grass fed beef is lower in fat than grain fed beef, and thus also has less calories. The fat that is on the grass fed beef is also located more on the outside, instead of the interior marbling you find in grain fed beef. In addition, it is high in beta-carotene and antioxidants, and possesses more beneficial Omega-3 fatty acids than grain fed beef. This all sounds great but what about its taste, which is always the ultimate test.

We cut the tenderloin into small steaks, seasoning it with some basic spices that included a wine infused salt, and grilled it until it was medium rare. First, this beef was certainly tender, and you could have cut it with a butter knife. Second, it had a mild beefy flavor with a bit of gaminess, which I found appealing. It actually tasted less gamey than most other grass fed beef I have tasted. My family loved this beef, and it didn't last long once it was taken off the grill. I enjoyed the beef at least as much as I did at the Expo, and I believe any meat-lover would savor this beef too. As grilling season has begun, Del Terruño would make for an excellent choice.

With the beef, I drank a wine from Macedonia, the Tikves "Special Selection" Vranec. This worked out to be an excellent pairing as the wine wasn't too tannic, and had some spicy and earthy notes which complemented the beef. The usual advice in wine pairing is that food from a region pairs well with the wines of that region. That might leave you to believe that the Del Terruño beef would pair well with Uruguayan Tannat, however I think that Tannat is often too tannic for this leaner grass fed beef. I would recommend pairing it with red wines that are less tannic than Tannat, which still gives you plenty of choices, from Spanish Tempranillo to French Rhône, from Oregon Pinot Noir to Italian Chianti Classico.

As for an out-of-the-box pairing, you could even drink Sake with this beef. A richer Junmai Sake, or maybe a Kimoto/Yamahai-style Sake, would go well with this Uruguayan beef. Some people dislike grass fed beef because of its gamey taste. Though the Del Terruño only had a minor gamey taste, you can still tone down that gaminess with Sake. One of the benefits of Sake is that it contains amino acids which help to mute the gamey taste of meat, making it more palatable to some people. The beef will also gain this benefit if you first marinate it in some Sake.

Del Terruño is mainly available in Massachusetts, and their website lists the locations, restaurants and stores, where it can be obtained. For example, it is served at Taranta Restaurant, in the North End, or you can purchase it at Marty's in Newton. Within the next few months, they are also updating their website and you will then be able to order their beef online, making it more accessible to all.

The beef is available in tenderloin, ribeye, strip and ground beef, priced at the mid-range for grass fed beef. Yes, that means it is generally more expensive than grain fed beef, but you have to balance the benefits from grass fed beef. I believe it is worth the additional cost.

Have you tasted Del Terruño beef? What do you think about its taste? And what wine did you pair it with?

Rant: Lazy Food Writers

“The food media as a whole is generally lazy,” remarked Joshua Ozersky, a food writer for Esquire and others and who is no fan of cupcakes. “There’s very few people in the food media that really have their own tastes and trust their own tastes. Generally most of them are followers. That’s why the food industry is dominated by trends. If you call something a trend, especially if you’re an editor, then it artificially becomes that. . . . There’s a group-think aspect."
--The Tastemakers: Why We're Crazy for Cupcakes but Fed Up with Fondue by David Sax

I have to agree that there is a significant portion of food writers who are lazy, choosing to write mostly about current trends rather than spending the time to write something more original. How many times do you really need to read another cupcake or cronut story? Put yourself in the place of the reader and ask yourself if you want to read another cupcake or cronut article. Do you find it exciting to read about the newest place selling their version of cronuts?

When a new trend arrives, many food writers race to write about it, though often their stories are little different from the dozens of other stories out there. They think that is what their readers want to know about, despite the fact those readers have seen similar articles in many other places. I could even understand if the writers found a special and unique angle on these trends, but that is so rarely the case. These food writers take the easy route, penning shallow articles which are eminently forgettable.

This needs to change.

We need to see more food writers taking the time to research more unique stories, to write about matters that few other people are writing about. That applies to other writers as well, such as wine writers. Stop copying the same, tired old story ideas and trends that everyone else is writing about. Dare to be more original, to pioneer a path that few have traveled before. Yes, it will take more time and effort to walk this road, but ultimately it is more fulfilling, and will make your work more memorable.

Rather than write another cupcake story, try penning an article about Peruvian restaurants. Instead of discussing the newest cronut incarnation, consider writing a post about the benefits of eating rabbit. There are tons of food and wine topics out there which are worthy of coverage, and which few writers have addressed. Leave the newest trend for some lazy writer, whose article will be read and forgotten by the next day. Compose something more original which people may read and then remember for some time to come.

Will you step forward and try to become a better writer?