Rant: Eating With Your Ears

What might entice you to try a new food? Or turn you off from trying it?

Though tasting a new dish is the only way to know whether you actually enjoy it or not, you still have to get to that point in the first place. It is not enough that a dish tastes delicious. There are numerous other factors which might prevent a potential diner from tasting a new item. For example, looking at a new dish, you might find it appealing or not. Presentation can be very important. Does it look like a plate of sludge or a piece of art? Your nose might also turn you onto a dish, as its enticing aromas caress your nostrils. Or it might smell like something rancid meaning you will push the dish away.

Were you aware that your ears also play a part in what dishes you will or will not taste?

".., but often farmers and distributors don’t realize how much a bad name can be a roadblock to public acceptance . A name gives a food its identity and meaning. Before people taste it, smell it, or pick it up, they hear the name and make a quick calculation whether it sounds tasty or not."
--The Tastemakers: Why We're Crazy for Cupcakes but Fed Up with Fondue by David Sax

The simple name of a food can play a major role in its acceptance or not. The name needs to sound appealing, to sound delicious. If the name sounds too strange or off putting, then there are plenty of people who will avoid it. It may seem silly that people won't try a food just because of its name, but it is the truth. And there is some science behind this matter as well.

".., successful food names whip up an instantaneous expectation of how the food will taste by stimulating neural network associations in the brain—basically connecting the dots between memories, images, and sensations to create an idea of what that food will be like before you even see it."
--The Tastemakers

Let's consider some examples. Back in 1978, "canola" oil was named, using a mashup of "Canadian" and "oil." Why was that done? Well, the oil was developed from a new strain of rapeseed but that word would have brought with it too many negative emotions. So, a change was desired and ultimately they chose canola, and its popularity remains high. I have written previously about the Patagonian Toothfish, which Americans know as Chilean Sea Bass. It was thought Americans wouldn't find "Toothfish" appealing, so an enterprising fish monger decided to rename it for an American audience. That is also why some restaurants and fish mongers refer to Sable Fish as Butter Fish, thinking the later term is more appealing. Consumers are also more likely to try a dish of sweetbreads rather if they were called thymus glands.

What food have you shied away from tasting merely because you dislike its name? Are there foods you think should be renamed so they would appeal to more people?

How To Cook Seafood, Vol.2

"Scallops are expensive, so they should be treated with some class. But then, I suppose that every creature that gives his life for our table should be treated with class."
--Jeff Smith

Are there reasons why you don't cook more seafood at home?
Do you have difficulty, or feel intimidated, preparing seafood at home?
Do you know how to best cook fish and shellfish?

As I have previously said, on repeated occasions, Americans don't eat enough seafood. You should eat seafood at least twice a week, garnering its significant health benefits. A significant reason why people don't eat enough seafood is that many are not comfortable cooking seafood at home. They feel intimidated, and don't want to potentially ruin an expensive piece of fish. I have found that even some of my more food-oriented friends still are not confident cooking seafood. So how do we change that? How do we give people more confidence in preparing seafood at home?

Welcome to the second edition of How To Cook Seafood series where I present advice and recipes for seafood from local chefs. The advice is geared for home cooks, simple suggestions and recipes that most anyone can do at home. My hope is that it will spur on more people to cook seafood at home. If any local chef is interested in participating in this series, please contact me.

Now onto two more chefs with advice and recipes.

Chef Rich Vellante, the Executive Chef at Legal Sea Foods advises:

"First things first: you want to make sure that you’re cooking the freshest, highest quality fish possible. Not only is it important for obvious reasons but, to me, cooking a great piece of fish is about keeping it simple so the true flavors of the fish are prevalent. Make an investment in your ingredients and you’ll make it easier on yourself in the kitchen. So a few words about fish purchasing:

"The first rule of thumb is to buy from a well-known, busy (one that has a high volume so inventory moves quickly) fishmonger with a quality-driven reputation. It’s particularly important because the seafood industry is not regulated as tightly regulated as the meat or poultry industries, so one must have a level of confidence and trust that the fishmonger is providing you with high quality, fresh fish.

"Then ask questions such as: Where and when was the fish caught? Was it previously frozen? Is it wild or farm raised? Are antibiotics or chemicals added? What fish had been plentiful and looking/tasting good recently? When you get direction from the fishmonger on what fish is very fresh, ask to look at it. If it is a fillet, then look for a firm flesh with a clean cucumber aroma. If it is a whole fish, the eyes should be clear, not cloudy. And if the gills are there, they should be bright red, not a dull red. Once you decide what you want, a good fishmonger will dress the fish anyway you ask.

"You should cook the fish the day you bring it home. Worst case scenario, cook it the next day. Now on to the preparation:

"Many home chefs find the prospect of cooking seafood somewhat daunting but, in fact, fish is very versatile and can be prepared in a multiple of ways. Depending on the fish, you can bake, sauté, poach or grill it. But my favorite way to cook it is always rooted in simplicity. One of those ways is to cook the fish in parchment or foil and bake it in the oven - take any fillet of fish and put it in foil with your favorite vegetables, herbs, white wine, salt, pepper and any other flavoring you desire and wrap it up tightly and bake in the oven. The end result is that all the aromas and juices are captured in the foil, so you end up with a light, flavorful and moist fish that will impress every time. It’s a very easy to prepare, all-in-one dish that’s healthy and satisfying. It’s a great family meal that can easily be adapted to serve more or fewer people. Enjoy!"

Fish in Foil
serves 4

Ingredients
2lb 4 haddock fillets (or any white fish)
3oz sliced zucchini (or any seasonal vegetable)
3oz shaved brussels sprout (or any seasonal vegetable)
1/4 cup chopped onion
4 plum tomatoes - cut in half
1T fresh marjoram
1T butter
salt
pepper

Preheat over to 400 degrees. Place the fish in the middle of a piece of aluminum foil layered with parchment or wax paper. Cover fish with zucchini and Brussels sprout, then layer tomato slices and marjoram on top. Add salt and pepper to taste, then dot with the butter. Make an envelope out of the foil, enclosing the fish and vegetables, and place it on a cookie sheet. Bake for about 15 minutes. Open the foil carefully to let out steam.

Chef Paul Turano, Owner of Tryst and Cook, advises:

“These tips may seem simple, but they are often overlooked. It is key to have all your prep work done before you start. You get one chance to do fish right. Be sure to always taste everything and be sure you don’t over salt. You can always add. Make sure you remove any extra moisture by using a paper towel to absorb excess water. Make sure your pan is hot when searing fish and always sear the fresh side first. Once you flip it over you can lower the heat.”

Halibut
4-6 Halibut Steaks

Pan sear halibut steaks until golden brown.
Finish in oven @ 350 for 6-8 minutes

Broth
1 Sliced white onion
4 Stalks lemon grass
1 diced red chili
1/4 cup sliced ginger root
Sauté until lightly caramelized
Cover with the juice of 3 coconuts and 1/2 cup water. Simmer for 30 minutes, shut off heat and steep following ingredients
--1/2 cup cilantro
--1/4 cup chopped scallions
Strain after 30 minutes

Red Curried Vegetables
1 sweet potato peeled and diced
1 head of cauliflower separated into small florets
1 bell pepper diced
1 red onion diced
3 small zucchini diced 1/2 " and seeded cut on a bias
1/2 T minced lemongrass centers
1/2 T minced garlic
1/2 T minced ginger
2 T Coconut milk
1T red curry paste
1/3 cup scallions cut on a bias
Roast cauliflower and sweet potato separately with canola oil salt and pepper until tender
Stir fry Zucchini, onion and peppers with ginger, garlic and lemon grass until tender and aromatic
Add coconut milk and curry to coat, combine with cauliflower and potato
Add scallions and adjust seasoning adding picked cilantro leaves for garnish

Plate
In a bowl mound heated vegetable composition, top with a piece of fish and pour about 1/3 cup of strain broth over the fish. Finish with scallion Julian

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I am back again with a new edition of Thursday Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting wine and food items that are upcoming. **********************************************************
1) On June 24, at 6:30pm, Legal Harborside will team up with Donald Patz, Co-Founder & National Sales Director of Patz & Hall, for an exclusive four-plus-course dinner. Founded in 1988, this California winery has a celebrated portfolio of single-vineyard Chardonnay and Pinot Noir wines. Patz & Hall uses the very best small, family-owned Chardonnay and Pinot Noir vineyards in California with the talented winegrowers who farm these world-class sites. Built on a shared commitment to quality, these partnerships have led to the rich diversity of the wine portfolio, contributing to acclaimed cuvées and sought-after single-vineyard wines.

The menuu will be presented as follows:

HORS D’OEUVRES
Fried Green Tomato, King Crab Salad, Smoked Tomato
Compressed Watermelon, Soy and Yuzu Marinated Tuna, Shiso
Black Bass Crudo, Tear Drop Tomato, Shishito Peppers, Lemon Thyme
Yakitori-style Grilled Octopus, House-made Ponzu, Asian Pear
Patz & Hall Sparkling Wine 2010
FIRST COURSE
Chilled Corn Soup (Roasted Summer Squash, Lobster Medallion, Opal Basil)
Patz & Hall, Dutton Ranch 2012 – Russian River Valley Chardonnay
Patz & Hall, Alder Springs Vineyards 2003 – Mendocino Chardonnay
SECOND COURSE
Skate Wing with Gnocchi al Nero (Tomato Confit, Grilled Calamari, Spicy Brodo di Mare)
Patz & Hall, Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir 2012
THIRD COURSE
Roasted Lamb Loin (Braised Lamb Belly, Baby Artichokes, Graffiti Eggplant, Summer Beans)
Patz & Hall, Jenkins Ranch 2012 – Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir
Patz & Hall, Hyde Vineyard 2000 – Carneros Pinot Noir
DESSERT COURSE
Maine Blueberry Tart (Sweet Corn Ice Cream)
Patz & Hall, Late Harvest Wine 2011 – California

COST: $135 per person (excludes tax & gratuity)
Reservation required by calling 617-530-9470

2) Spring is the optimum time of year for enjoying fresh goat cheese, and The Concord Cheese Shop has taken delivery of several worthy cheeses – both goat and not -- from small New England farms, some as close as half an hour away. I haven't tasted these new cheeses yet, but I certainly am motivated to drive to Concord to do so.

Lake’s Edge Goat Cheese (Blue Ledge Farm, Salisbury, VT)
A dramatic-looking, ash-veined cheese, aged just three weeks before being shipped to Concord Cheese Shop from this 100-acre farm. It’s named for the whitish stones often found along the shores of Lake Champlain.
Fresh Goat Cheese Crottins (Crystal Brook Farm, Sterling, MA)
Goat cheese “buttons” so fresh they’re often delivered within 48 hours of being inside the ewe. Cheese Shop marinates ‘em Italian style and sells ‘em by the 3” piece; perfect plunked atop a green salad for a light spring luncheon.
Mixed Drum (Twig Farm, West Cornwall, VT)
Made by Michael Lee from raw Ayrshire cow plus Alpine goat milks, this semi-hard cheese is named for its shape, and Concord Cheese Shop is pleased to carry it when we can get it (arrived May 2014), after it ages for 4 to 7 months.
Berkshire Blue (Great Barrington, MA)
Whole Jersey cow’s milk, and fatherly attention over its 60-day production process by career-changer cheesemaker Ira Grable results in this creamy and udderly delicious cheese made in the English style, but with much lower salt content. BB’s facility is smaller than a studio apartment, but its flavor reads like a penthouse coop.
Hooligan (Cato Corner Farm, Colchester, CT)
This scamp of a ripe, washed-rind cheese with creamy interior and bright orange rind has been a staff favorite for the past year. Mother and son cheesemakers bathe the small wheels in brine to encourage a pungent surface. This is one of 22 cheeses made on a farm just two hours away.
Dorset (Consider Bardwell Farm, West Pawlet, VT)
An award-winning, washed rind, raw Jersey cow’s milk cheese that’s soft-ripened and sold in 2.5 lb. wheels that can only be described as buttery.
Von Trapp Farmstead Oma (Cellar-aged at Jasper Hill Farm, VT)
Cheesemakers Sebastian and John von Trapp named this cheese after their German grandmother, Erica, whom they called Oma. It’s made from raw milk produced by cows grazing in Mad River Valley, and its taste is earthy and complex, with a silky texture.
Tarentaise (Thistle Hill Farm, North Pomfret, VT)
Concord Cheese Shop proprietor Peter Lovis loves this organic, grass-fed Jersey cow’s milk cheese so much he’s asked cheesemakers John and Janine Putnam for a special aging shelf at the farm for the wheels slated for sale here. There, Tarentaise is not only extra-aged for, but arrive with a report on the weather conditions the wheels endured. Made in traditional copper vats, this is an assertive and complex, natural rind cheese worth discovering.
Tobasi (Cricket Creek Farm, Williamstown, Massachusetts)
Inspired by taleggio, this semi-soft, raw cow’s milk cheese has a taste that’s a cross between butter and custard, but with seasonal variations that often add a hint of nuttiness.
Arpeggio and Prescott (Robinson Family Farm, Hardwick, MA)
Two of four farmstead cheeses made from raw cow’s milk at this fourth generation farm located about an hour away from Concord. Arpeggio tastes of its central Massachusetts terroir, and is still spreadable after 2-4 months of aging. Prescott is a dense cheese aged 9 to 12 months, and is so darn good it won the 2013 American Cheese Society gold medal.
West West Blue (Parish Hill Creamery, West Westminster, MA)
This spicy aged Gorgonzola style blue comes from veteran cheese craftsman Peter Dixon, the man who showed most of Vermont how to make cheese. A masterpiece made in small batches with whole raw cow milk.

Alexander Jules: Three Impressive Sherries

Would you drink a wine that was described as "caramelized fish roe" or "sugar coated fish scale?" Before you answer, know that those were complimentary comments and this wine was a huge hit with the wine lovers savoring it yesterday.

As I previously mentioned, this is International Sherry Week, and yesterday I attended a lunch tasting of three new Sherries at Taberna de Haro. It was a perfect day, sunny and warm, and a small group of us sat outside the restaurant, enjoying some tapas with our Sherry. It brought to mind my time in Jerez, sitting outside a tapas bar, and sipping Sherry. Chef Deborah Hansen led the tasting, which also became a round table discussion on all things Sherry, from the public perception of this unique beverage to retail sales. Fun, informative and so very delicious.

In the U.S., we have experienced only a portion of the Sherry styles and types that are available in Spain. Deborah mentioned that she was once told that Spaniards didn't believe our market was ready yet for certain Sherries, that they didn't want to confuse the U.S. marketplace. It is as if they want us to first move beyond sweet Sherry, and to better understand and appreciate dry Sherry. For example, it was only relatively recently that En Rama Sherry, a lightly filtered wine, has been made available in the U.S. As we embrace Sherry more, then we will eventually find an even greater diversity in the market, and that is very exciting.

Jamon! Enough said. A fine accompaniment to Sherry.

Anchovies, more tasty treats. Sustainable and also excellent with Sherry.

And of course some Olives. Sherry, especially Fino and Manzanilla go great with salty foods.

The three Sherries we tasted were from the portfolio of Alexander Jules, a company that was founded in 2012 by Alexander Russan. This company is not a Bodega nor an Almacenista but is more similar to that of a Negociant. Alexander visits Sherry producers or cellars, tastes through many of their barrels, and selects a number of barrels to create a special Sherry, what he feels will make a compelling wine. The Sherry is then sent to a bottler, who also will filter and/or fine the wines. This is very similar to what is done by the well known Equipo Navazos. 

Alexander got interested in Sherry while he was in college, finding great complexity in Sherry at a very reasonable price (which is still the case). He eventually starting working in the coffee industry, where he apparently developed an excellent palate which would later serve him well with Sherry. Seeking a new challenge, Alexander decided to get into the Sherry business. The Spanish are very open to business dealings with foreigners, and Alexander must have impressed them sufficiently that some of them have chosen to work with him.

After selecting a Sherry, Alexander wants them bottled with minimal processing, only a bare essential amount of filtering. His intention is to present a Sherry as close as to what it tastes like directly from the barrel. Too much filtering can also strip flavor and color from a Sherry. It is fascinating that minimal filtering permits some living matter, generally yeasts, to remain within the bottle, so the Sherry remains a living wine, and will evolve over time in the bottles. These Sherries should age well, and it would be intriguing to see how they develop over the years.  

Alexander, who is based in California, noticed Deborah frequently tweeting about Sherry and he contacted her to see if she were interested in trying his Sherry. He eventually mailed her samples and she was enamored with their taste and complexity. After initially tasting them, she let them sit for a week and tasted them again, to see how they changed with time. She liked their evolution, and noted that they tasted differently, though still good.

I first tasted the three Alexander Jules Sherries (a Fino, Manzanilla & Amontillado) a few weeks ago while dining at Taberna de Haro with two good friends. I was impressed then and was eager to taste them again yesterday, to learn more about these Sherries. Once again, the Sherries impressed and I highly recommend that everyone check them out.

The Alexander Jules Fino 22/85 was selected from 22 of the 85 barrel Fino Celestino solera at Bodegas Sanchez Romate Hnos. I've visited this Bodegas before and they produce excellent Sherry so Alexander certainly chose well. The Fino Celestino solera contains the oldest Fino produced at the bodega, about eight years old on average. It is basically bottled En Rama, with minimal filtering, has an alcohol content of only 15% and was bottled in May 2013. Only 1100 bottles were produced, meaning it is very small production.

The Fino has a bright gold/amber color, darker than many other Finos, and a pleasant aroma of brine and almonds. I haven't found that strong of a briny aroma in most other Finos, and I might almost think it was a Manzanilla by smell alone. On the palate, the Fino is more full bodied, with a bold and complex blend of saltiness, nutty notes, and hints of spice and herbs. With each sip, I seem to find something else within its intriguing taste. And I love that it only has 15% alcohol, lower than many other Sherries. This is not a simple or forgettable Fino.

The Alexander Jules Manzanilla 17/71 was selected from 17 barrels of the 71 barrel San León solera from Bodegas Argüeso in Sanlúcar. The solera is as old as the bodega itself, having been established in 1822. It is basically bottled En Rama, with minimal filtering, has an alcohol content of 15% and was bottled in May 2013. Only 1100 bottles were produced, meaning it is also very small production.

It possessed the same color as the Fino, and from comparing the color of the two glasses, you would be unable to differentiate the two. Its aroma burst with a briny delight, enhanced with floral elements and a touch of spice. On the palate, it has that delicious taste of the ocean, bringing to mind oysters and uni. Again, this Sherry was complex and intense, with hints of citrus on the finish, something you don't often find in Manzanilla. I am a huge fan of Manzanilla and loved this Sherry, preferring it slightly over the Fino, but that is due only to personal preference.

I should note too that over the course of our lunch, there were some subtle changes in the Sherries. Part of it is due to the fact they warmed up some, but also because they are living wines, evolving over even a short time. Thus, it would be beneficial to savor and pay attention to these Sherries while you drink them, to assess the changes that come with time.

The Alexander Jules Amontillado 6/26 was selected from 6 of the 26 barrel "Amontillado Fino" solera from Bodegas Argüeso. It has an average age of ten years, has minimal filtering, an alcohol content of 17.5% and was bottled in May 2013. Only 1300 bottles (500ml each) were produced, meaning it is also very small production.

This was the wine that was described as "caramelized fish roe" and "sugar coated fish scale." It is a stunning Sherry, with such a fascinating and harmonious melange of aromas and flavors. There is that sense of the sea, the brininess that exists in the other two Sherry, and that is coupled with flavors of caramel, toffee and butter. There are also hints of dried fruit and spice. It is bright and intense, tantalizing and sublime. Everyone really enjoyed this Sherry, appreciating its complexity and simple deliciousness. Highly recommended.

To taste these Sherries, stop by Taberna de Haro, which is one of the only (if not the only) restaurants currently carrying them. They are being distributed by Winebow so they are available in a few wine shops, though due to their rarity their availability is limited. The Fino (750ml), Manzanilla (750ml) and Amontillado (500ml) generally retail for around $45 a bottle. These are unique and impressive Sherries and I think the price is reasonable. I need to buy some myself.

Remember, once these Sherries are sold, they won't ever be offered again. This weekend, Alexander is traveling back to Jerez, to research and taste test some future bottlings. I look forward to these new bottlings, to see what other treasures that Alexander creates.

Rant: Stop Neglecting Sherry

"There are only two kinds of sherry, the good and the better."
--Jerez saying

What is one of the tastiest, most intriguing, and unique wines that you are probably not drinking? Sherry, a fascinating fortified wine from a small region of Spain.

Today is the start of International Sherry Week, an effort to elevate the image of Sherry, to attract more people to savor this delicious wine. As a lover and fervent advocate of Sherry, I want to take this opportunity to spread my passion for this wine, to intrigue others to give it a try. Sherry remains a niche beverage in the U.S., and most of the Sherry imported into the U.S. is sweet. As such, many Americans have not encountered the joys of dry Sherry. Even many wine lovers have little experience with dry Sherry. It is dry Sherry which is enjoyed the most in Spain, and there must be a very good reason for that fact.

Hopefully, we can change matters and get more Americans drinking more Sherry. Here are some items that hopefully will motivate you to discover more about Sherry.

• The Sherry region has a lengthy, fascinating history, extending back a few thousand years and may even the source of the Atlantis legend. 
• Palomino, the primary grape of Sherry, may have been planted by the ancient Phoenicians. Every sip of Sherry is a taste of history.
• Sherry may have been the first wine brought to the New World.
• The Mayflower, before it sailed to the New World by the Puritans, was used to transport Sherry.
• Aged Sherry is one of the best values in the wine world. You could buy 50 year old Sherry for $50-$100, far cheaper than almost any other aged wine on the market. 
• Francois Chartier, who has written on the science of food and wine pairings, states that Fino Sherry is the King of Food Pairings.
• A Sherry Bodega is radically different from the average wine cellar, helping to make Sherry possess its distinctive nature.
• Here are 10 Things you should know about Sherry.
• And here are 5 More Things you should know about Sherry.

Locally, Sherry is starting to get a little more visibility, albeit more in the form of Sherry cocktails. I enjoy such cocktails, but I would like to see more people enjoying Sherry on its own too. If you enjoy the flavors of Sherry in cocktails, then why not try the flavors on their own, without other flavors clouding the issue. Try a Fino or Manzanilla, an Amontillado or Oloroso. Or maybe even a Palo Cortado. 

The best place to enjoy Sherry is at Taberna de Haro in Brookline, which has over 60 Sherries on their list. Order a few tapas and get a flight of Sherries to compare and contrast. Other places with Sherry to check out include Merrill & Co., Tres Gatos, The Hawthorne, and Toro,  

Stop missing out on the wonders of Sherry. Take a chance and order a couple dry Sherries, to taste something new. You can thank me later when you find a new favorite.