Consumers & Seafood Certification

Seafood sustainability is a complex issue, especially for consumers. They feel overwhelmed by the myriad of issues and often are unwilling to take the time and effort to ask the necessary questions of a seafood purveyor or restaurant to determine whether a specific seafood is sustainable or not. They also can get confused by the conflicting information they receive from the media, such as whether aquaculture is sustainable or not. The media tends to showcase negative information about seafood, four times more than they showcase positive articles, and they often tend to exaggerate the perils.

What can a consumer do to more easily determine whether a specific seafood is sustainable or not?

Consumers need something simple, quick and trustworthy, and third party certifications can provide that solution. Such third party certifications can provide labels for seafood, vouching for the sustainability of the product, and consumers can then rely on those labels when purchasing seafood. That makes the buying decision much easier for consumers. They don't need to spend time asking lots of questions of the purveyor. All they have to do is look for a trusted label. It couldn't be any simpler for them.

There are a growing number of third party certifications for seafood sustainability, from the Marine Stewardship Council (MSC) to the Aquaculture Stewardship Council (ASC). Each has its own standards and covers its own types of seafood. There are also organizations such as the Monterey Bay Aquarium Seafood Watch which provide seafood sustainability recommendations but don't issue actual certifications. All of these groups do the difficult work of sustainability assessment, making their results available to the general public, and often for free.  

Consumers need to understand a few basics about such certifications, and be willing to trust their decisions. It won't be the average consumer though who generally questions these certifications. Instead, it will be a passionate minority who will step up and inquire into those third party certifications. They will be the ones who question everything, including their motivations, knowledge level, biases and more. And that minority will then inform the general public, indicating which certifications are trustworthy or not.

As for the basics consumers need to know, they first need to understand that these certifications exist, and that they indicate the sustainability of the seafood. That requires such certification organizations to engage in media campaigns to make consumers aware of their existence. It requires fish markets, grocery stores, restaurants and others to make their customers aware of the certification labels on their seafood. It needs the media to spread the word, highlighting the positive work of these certification bodies. Unless consumers are educated, they won't be able to select seafood based on these certifications.

Second, consumers must learn that they cannot rely on a single certification for all their seafood decisions. Instead, they need to accept the validity of multiple certifications, as each specific certification has its limitations. For example, the MSC only certifies wild fisheries while the ASC only certifies aquaculture. Both certifications are equally valid and indicate sustainable seafood, just in different areas. If consumers seek only a single certification label, then they will be missing out on plenty of sustainable seafood.

If consumers start relying on these third party certification labels, then it will likely lead to more fisheries, both wild and farmed, to seek out certifications and that will lead to greater sustainability in the seafood industry. Educating consumers then about these labels is essential to the continued vitality of the seafood industry. As the importance of seafood grows, especially due to its potential to address the future food crisis, then the importance of sustainability becomes even more vital.

Another advantage to the proliferation if third party certification groups is that it seems to be leading to the creation of even stricter standards. The different groups want to differentiate themselves from the others and adhering to stricter standards is one way to do so. For example, the ASC, which was founded in 2010, created standards which include social issues, from worker safety to wages. This could be the future of sustainability, a consideration of not only the health of the oceans and fish, but also the health and safety of the workers involved in the industry. The more certification groups that embrace such social standards, makes the seafood industry better for all.

Spread the word about third party certifications, and let consumers understand their value. Let's have more consumers opt for sustainable seafood by making it easier for them to do so.

Rant: Wine Is Losing Ground

Wine isn't as popular as it used to be, and beer is becoming a more favored choice. For several years, some have claimed that Millennials were the future of wine, that they would consume more wine than any previous generation. I voiced my doubts, worried that all of the new craft beers and spirits might capture the attention of Millennials. Based on a recent Gallup poll, craft beers might be replacing wine as the drink of choice.

For more than twenty years, beer has usually been the preferred drink of Americans, except for a brief moment in 2005 when wine surpassed beer. This year, beer has been on an upward surge, preferred by 41% of Americans while wine has been on the decline, preferred by only 31%. Those who prefer spirits was at 23%, which has slowly been climbing. It doesn't appear that the infusion of Millennials has been boosting the number of Americans who prefer wine. Instead, it seems beer and spirits may be capturing more of their attention.

When the results are broken down by demographics, the situation becomes even more interesting. 46% of women prefer wine while only 17% of men prefer it (and 57% of men prefer beer). A nearly 30% difference is astounding. Why do so few men prefer wine? Why does wine appeal more to women? Do wine marketers need to appeal more to men? How do they do that? With such a large discrepancy, then why are more wine blogs written by men? The number of female written wine blogs has been increasing each year, but men still author the majority.    

Age also plays its part in one's preferences. Generally, the younger the group, the more they prefer beer. For example, those 18-34 years old prefer beer 48% while those 35-54 prefer beer only 43%, and those older prefer wine over beer, 38% to 32%. Millennials, especially males, are opting more for beer than wine. That will likely change as they get older, but it seems as if it will fall into old patterns, and not create anything new.

Roughly 64% of American adults drink alcohol, with the rest identifying as "total abstainers." This is roughly the same as it has been since the end of Prohibition. That is also a fascinating fact, that despite the production over the years of higher quality wine, beer and spirits, the total amount of drinkers has remained relatively stable, with only minor fluctuations.

How can wine regain ground against craft beers and spirits? How can we get more men to prefer wine? Are women the future of wine? These are all important questions that wineries, marketers, PR people, and others should be considering. Writers should also be exploring these issues, as well as considering the demographics of their readers.

Sage in Vegas: A Worthy Splurge

From France to Lebanon to South Africa, a fascinating vinous journey to begin our Vegas vacation. Enhancing the experience, the wines accompanied compelling dishes, creating a superb culinary evening.

Dinner at the Sage restaurant in the Aria Hotel.

While deciding on which restaurants to patronize while in Vegas, my good friend Adam recommended Sage. He had dined there previously and couldn't rave about his experience enough. I trust his palate and had also read some other very positive reviews of Sage, so we decided to dine there one evening. Due to scheduling issues, we ended up going to Sage on our first evening in Vegas, and the experience set a high bar for the rest of the trip. It was a top notch dinner, with excellent wines and attentive service. A perfect choice.

Sage serves "contemporary American cuisine spiced with global influences" and includes "farm-to-table produce, artisanal meats and sustainable seafood.." Chef Shawn McClain, who also owns the Green Zebra in Chicago, is originally from San Diego. He has spent much of his culinary career in Chicago, and opened Sage in Vegas in 2009. This is a high-end restaurant, with an elegant ambiance that avoids being pretentious. The restaurant's initial dining area, which is a bit more casual, also has a lengthy bar, while the second dining area is the more elegant.

The food menu has several options, from a la carte choices to a few different tasting menus. There is a three-course Early Evening Menu ($59), a four-course Signature Tasting Menu ($89) and an eight-course Chef's Tasting Menu ($150). On the a la carte menu, you will find Starters (9 choices at $16-$27), Salads (3 choices at $18-$24), Steaks & Braises (4 choices at $41-59), Lighter Meats (3 choices at $37-$44), and Pasta & Seafood (4 choices at $41-$44). There were no Specials on the evening we dined, but the menu has plenty of interesting choices.

The wine list at Sage was intriguing and diverse, and the prices were not outrageous. We spoke with the Master Sommelier, Nick Hetzel, and he was knowledgeable, personable and passionate. The list he composed has some big names, but also some intriguing, lesser known, but still excellent, wines. This is clearly a restaurant which has a passion for wine, and which wine lovers will cherish.

We started off with the Catherine et Pierre Breton "Le Dilettante" Vouvray Brut, a sparkling wine from the Loire. The winery is certified organic and is also seeking Biodynamic certification. Made in the méthode traditionnelle, this wine is produced from 100% Chenin Blanc, the vines which are about 40 years old. Dry and compelling, there were delicious tastes of peach and apple, with hints of citrus, spice and an underlying minerality. It was clean and refreshing, an excellent way to begin our meal, and a wine I would recommend to any lover of bubbly.

I began my dinner with the Roasted Veal Sweetbreads ($18), which come with glazed bacon, creamy white polenta and trumpet mushrooms. Who wouldn't love that large, thick slab of glazed bacon atop the dish? Tender and flavorful, it went well with the slightly crunchy coating of the sweetbreads and their moist interior. Everything in this dish was delicious and worked well together, such a delight of textures and flavors. Highly recommended.

Our second wine was the unique 2001 Chateau Musar Blanc, a Lebanese white wine. I've previously enjoyed red wines from Chateau Musar but never had one of their whites before. This wine is made from two indigenous grapes, Obaideh and Merwah, and is fermented in French oak barriques for 9 months. It is then bottled but not released until 7 years after harvest, so this wine was not released until 2008. It is a slightly oxidized style, and I loved it. More full bodied, it possessed a complex melange of flavors which intrigued my palate. Notes of honey and apricot, smoke and caramel, citrus and pear. Each sip seemed to bring new flavors to mind, and it evolved over the course of the dinner, getting more intriguing as the night went on. Highly recommended, and this wine appears to be available in Massachusetts through Ruby Wines.

For my second course, I chose a Melon Salad (which is not listed on their online menu) with thin strips of pork belly as well as strips of ricotta cheese. A nice combination of flavors and textures, with the fresh fruit of the melon and the saltiness of the pork belly and ricottta. A refreshing palate cleanser after the heavier dish of sweetbreads.

Our next wine was the 2012 Sadie Family Die Ouwingerdreeks Soldaat, a South African wine from the Swartland region. "Soldaat" means "soldiers" and this wine is made from 100% Grenache Noir, reminding me of some Rhône wines. The bold fruit flavors, from cherry to strawberry, were enhanced by spicy & earthy notes. It seemed both fresh and mature, an interesting dichotomy which made this a fascinating and delicious wine. Restrained tannins, a lengthy finish, and nice acidity make this another wine I highly recommend.

And a perfect pairing for the Soldaat was the Bacon-Wrapped Iberico Pork Loin ($44), with smoked apple, asparagus, and celery root panna cotta. The pork alone was wonderful, tender and rich in flavor, and the bacon only made it more hedonistic. This is one of their signature dishes and I understand its popularity. A fine entree which is going to satisfy any pork lover.

The Dessert menu has 8 choices, priced $14-$20, and I opted for a Watermelon Mousse dish (which is not listed on their online menu).  As I wasn't taking formal notes, I am unsure what else what on this dish. I do recall though that it was tasty, with a variety of textures, from creamy to crunchy, with some savory elements too.

Overall, this was an excellent dining experience and I highly recommend Sage. Service was professional and attentive, the food was well-presented and delicious, and the wines were killer. If you are going to splurge on dinner in Vegas, Sage would be a great choice.

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I am back again with a new edition of Thursday Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting wine and food items that are upcoming. **********************************************************
1) Legal Oysteria, Legal Sea Foods’ newest concept in Charlestown, now offers weekend lunch service. Executive Chef Rich Vellante and Restaurant Chef Gina Palmacci have designed a menu of coastal Italian-style seafood that will be served in this casual neighborhood restaurant.

For appetizers, there are eight options including: New England Clam Chowder; Charred Octopus (tomato, potato, coriander vinaigrette - $10); Braised Mussels (fideos, chorizo, red wine tomato sauce - $9); Seafood Antipasto (shrimp, squid, octopus, olives - $10.50); and, Eggplant Caponata Dip (warm focaccia - $8.50). There are also a variety of “Small Plates” ($3-5), including Chickpea & Shrimp Fritters (chorizo mayo), Smoked Salmon (dill mascarpone) and a trio of Oyster preparations (raw, grilled and baked).

From the old world brick oven with true clay-based fire bricks, three pizzas will be dished out: Margherita (fresh mozzarella, tomato, basil - $10); Roasted Clam (garlic, oregano, mozzarella, pecorino - $11); and, Sopressata (stracciatella, banana peppers, spicy red sauce - $12). Salads can come topped with a choice of grilled shrimp, swordfish, salmon or chicken and include Baby Romaine (pint nuts, dried grapes, parmigiano vinaigrette - $8) and Treviso Radicchio & Escarole (lemon anchovy dressing - $9).

There are eight entrée and pasta options, such as: Steak Sandwich (pancetta, mortadella, caciocavallo, egg, polenta fries - $15); Pan Roasted Salmon (salsa verde, marinated zucchini - $17); Baked Eggs in Tomato Sauce (chickpeas and fontina, whole wheat olive toast); Cannoli Pancakes (ricotta filled crespelle, strawberries, maple syrup - $7); and, Linguini & Clams ($17). For sides, six a la carte options are offered ($3-4), including Oven Roasted Cipollini, Charred Carrots and Heirloom Bean Salad.

Legal Oysteria will be open for weekend lunch service on Saturdays and Sundays from 11am to 4pm.

2) On Tuesday, August 19, at 6:30pm, Legal Harborside will team up with Massimo Galvano, Italian Wine Director of Kobrand Wine & Spirits, for an exclusive four-plus-course Italian wine dinner. Kobrand’s Italian estates are renowned for their diverse and extensive terrain ranging from warm Mediterranean climates to cool hillsides and mountains which produce complex yet diverse flavors.

The menu will be presented as follows:

SFIZI
Baked Clam with Ciabatta Pancetta Crumbs
Chilled Melon Soup with Crispy Prosciutto
Black Bass Crudo with Tuscan Olive Oil
Baccala Fritter, Salsa Verde, Grilled Lemon Aioli
Michele Chiarlo “Le Marne” Gavi, Piemonte, 2013
ANTIPASTI
Grilled Octopus (Marble Potato, Braised Cipolini, Smoked Tomato, Coriander Oil)
Nozzole “La Forra” Chianti Classico Riserva, Toscana, 1997
Nozzole “La Forra” Chianti Classico Riserva, Toscana, 2008
PASTA COURSE
Veal Cheek Ravioli (Prosciutto-Wrapped Monkfish, Crispy Sage)
Silvio Nardi Rosso di Montalcino, Toscana, 2010
Silvio Nardi “Manachiara” Brunello di Montalcino, Toscana, 2003
SECONDI COURSE
Roasted Lamb Loin (Braised Lamb Belly, Smoked Lentils, Graffiti Eggplant, Slow Roasted Mushrooms)
Michele Chiarlo “Tortoniano” Barolo, Piemonte, 2009
Michele Chiarlo “Cannubi” Barolo, Piemonte, 2003
DOLCE
Summer Peach Torta
Amaretto Mascarpone Cream, Raspberry
Michele Chiarlo “Nivole” Moscato d’Asti, Piemonte, 2012

COST: $125 per person (excludes tax & gratuity)
Reservation required by calling 617-530-9470

3) Executive Chef/Partner Robert Sisca and Head Sommelier Todd Lipman of Bistro du Midi present the fourth month of the five-part Summer Rosé Tour, running now through September. To celebrate the summer months and embrace the ever-growing popularity of Provencal Rosé, Bistro du Midi is offering an experience for guests to enjoy the wine and cuisine of Nice, Marseille, Toulon, Saint-Tropez, and Cannes. Guests can expect a unique Rosé to be offered by the glass and in multiple pouring sizes. These selections pair with Chef Sisca’s signature crudo selection, as well as alongside featured menu additions from Chef Sisca that embrace the regional specialties of major Provencal towns.

For August, the selection is from Toulon with Château Miraval. It includes:

--2013 Château Miraval Rosé, Côtes de Provence $13 / $19.50 / $29 / $58
--Small Plate
Brandade Beignets (Pimento Aïoli) $10
--Large Plate
Grilled Red Snapper (Arugula & White Peach Salad, Lemon Vinaigrette) $21
Both plates and a glass of rosé $39

Vegas, J Sake Bar & Mioya Yuho Yama-oroshi

While planning my trip to Las Vegas, I did some research on the best places to find Sake. As I hadn't been there in several years, I knew there had to be some new places to check out, and I found one. The J Sake Bar, located a short distance off the Strip at 4459 West Flamingo Road, has only been open since the end of April, and they do not even have a website, just a Facebook page. As such, there also is not a menu of their food or Sake online. Hopefully that will be remedied in the near future, so people can see what they carry.

The Sake bar is open Tuesday through Sunday, from 7pm-3am, and they carry over 100 different Sakes, in numerous formats from small cans to large ishobins. My friends and I stopped there after our dinner at Anriya Raku, planning to have a drink. We didn't order any food, and really didn't even consult the food menu, because we had already eaten plenty at dinner. However, I delved into the Sake list, and was pleased with the diversity I found. This is definitely a place I want to return to, and spend more time exploring the Sake list and trying some of their food. It is a place with lots of potential, though it needs to provide more information online for potential customers.

We sat at the bar and our server was personable and accommodating, making us all feel welcome. For a Thursday evening, close to midnight, it wasn't very busy though that could be because it is not well known yet. Being off the Strip, visitors to Vegas generally have to take the effort to get there, which many may not do unless they are provided sufficient reason to do so. So, such restaurants and bars need to spread the word wide and far, to gain the notice they deserve.

I chose to drink the Mioya Shuzo Yuho "Rhythm of the Centuries" Yama-oroshi Junmai Kimoto. That sounds like a mouthful, but it is rather easy to understand. Mioya Shuzo, founded in 1897, is the name of the Sake brewery and it is located in the Ishikawa Prefecture. It is especially unique as it is one of the only breweries with a female president, Miho Fujita, and she also participates in the brewing. The "Yuho" line was created to showcase Sake with bold flavors and umami, and the term means "happy rice" though it also refers to the area's frequent UFO sightings. Flying saucers & Sake?

The Sake uses Notohikari rice, that has been polished down to 55%, which would qualify it as a Ginjo though it is only labeled as a Junmai. It has a higher acidity, at 2.2, than the usual Junmai. The Sake was produced using the ancient Kimoto method, where large oar-like poles, called yama-oroshi, are continually rammed into the yeast starter to produce a paste. This is a laborious task, which is rarely performed in modern breweries, but which can create intriguing Sake, often with a more earthy or gamey taste, as well as greater umami. The Mioya brewery has been using the Kimoto method since its founding.

Most Sake is aged for six months to a year before it is released, but this Yuho is aged for about four years prior to release. This may be why the Sake is so smooth on the palate, an easy drinking liquid which goes down far too quickly. It has a powerful umami taste, with underlying elements of earthiness, some citrus flavors and even Sherry notes on the finish. Nice acidity, a lengthy finish and plenty of complexity. An excellent choice, it garners my highest recommendation and I think it will be enjoyed not only by Sake lovers, but also those new to Sake.

Good luck to the J Sake Bar!