TasteCamp At Hudson Valley: Some History

And another TasteCamp has ended.

In New York, I've previously explored Long Island, the Finger Lakes & the Niagara Escarpment, and now can add the Hudson River region to my travels. The Hudson River Region AVA was formed in 1982, and you can roughly divide it into 3 areas, the Lower Hudson Valley, Mid-Hudson Valley, and the Upper Hudson Valley. There are close to 50 wineries in this AVA, and they can generally be found on various wine trails, including the Shawangunk Wine Trail, Duchess Wine Trail and Hudson Berkshire Beverage Trail. Where did it all begin?

To answer that, let's delve into a little history.

The Hudson Valley was originally the home to two Native American peoples, the Mahican (an Eastern Algonquian tribe) and the Lenape (also known as the Delaware). Europeans came to the region in the early 17th century, with Henry Hudson as one of the prominent first explorers. Hudson was English and was hired by the Dutch East India Company to find a potential Northwest Passage to Asia. Around 1609, while seeking this Passage, he explored the New York area, including the Hudson Valley region.    

Hudson is also connected to an intriguing legend which seeks to explain the origin of the name, "Manhattan." While visiting the island which one day would become Manhattan, Hudson encountered a group of Native Americans. Trying to be friendly, he offered them some alcohol, which might have included wine, brandy or whiskey. Whatever the type of alcohol, it apparently was rather potent. Disliking the smell of the alcohol, nearly all of them refused to drink it except for a single man, not wanting to be discourteous, who reluctantly chose to partake.

After drinking what was probably a significant amount of alcohol, he passed out, and the others thought at first that he might have been poisoned. Fortunately, they didn't just kill Hudson for revenge. They soon learned that their friend was not dead, and when he woke, he lauded the taste and effects of the alcohol. That persuaded the others to drink some alcohol too, and many of them soon became intoxicated. Afterwards, the land became known as Manahachtanienk, the "island where we drank liquor."  

When Hudson arrived in the valley, he found many native grapes already growing in the region. His explorations led the Dutch to settle the area and, around 1615, the first Dutch settlement, Fort Nassau, was established in the Hudson Valley. To the Dutch, beer was very important to their diet so they planted grains and hops in the Hudson so they could make local beer. As wine was less important to them, it wasn't until about sixty years later, in 1677, that the Dutch tried planting vinifera vines in the Hudson, near what is now known as New Paltz. This was about 100 years before vines were first planted in California.

However, their efforts were largely unsuccessful, mainly due to the colder climate. They used some native grapes to make wine, though it wasn't a significant endeavor. The Dutch did enjoy a drink called Koud Schaal, which means "cold bowl," and was a mix of beer and wine. It wouldn't be until the 19th century that significant changes would lead to the creation of a commercial wine industry in the Hudson.

In 1804, Robert Underhill, a Quaker, purchased the land of Croton Point, establishing an agricultural estate there, growing watermelons, apples, pears, chestnuts, and castor beans. He too wanted to plant vineyards and quickly learned that European vines didn't grow well in the Hudson. To remedy the situation, he started experimenting with crossbreeding European with native grapes, and eventually, after about ten years, produced hardier grapes. In 1839, the first commercial winery was founded, originally called the Blooming Cove, but renamed in 1885 as the Brotherhood Winery, and it is still in existence, making it the oldest winery in the country which has continuously produced wine.

The modern wine industry in the Hudson Valley began to form a strong foundation when John Dyson, the State Commissioner of Agriculture, helped to pass the Farm Winery Bill in 1976. Dyson is now the owner at Millbrook Winery. This new law led to increased winery growth in the Hudson, leading to the establishment of the Hudson River AVA in 1982. Since then, nearly fifty wineries have sprouted up in the region.

Despite its lengthy history, the Hudson Valley wine industry is still not as developed as that of Long Island or the Finger Lakes. It is still seeking its identity. However, it is forging ahead, learning and improving all the time, and the future looks bright. They need to produce more grapes, so that there is much less need to purchase grapes from the rest of New York, or elsewhere. They need to experiment more to determine which grapes can grow best in their soils and climate. They need more time and experience. I look forward to revisiting this region in the future, to see how it has grown and developed over time.

Farm Stand in Hudson Valley: Big Rock Farms

Prior to our first winery visit of TasteCamp,we arrived about two hours early to the area so engaged in a little exploration. In Stanfordville, we stopped at Big Rock Farms, a  roadside farm stand, to see what we might find, and it turned out to be a worthy destination.

There was an outside area full of local fruits and vegetables, and a small building where you could find more fruits and vegetables, as well as meats, milk, baked goods and more. One of their refrigerators contained lots of local lamb, a variety of cuts, which certainly appealed to me. I did buy some of their milk, which was delicious, pairing well with my cider donut.

Pumpkins of various sizes were available.

A variety of tomatoes were available and we purchased some, enjoying them very much when we later ate them at home. They were fresh, with plenty of flavor to them.

There were many local apples available too, and I picked up and later enjoyed some Mutsu apples.

Potatoes and other root veggies were for sale.

And they sold Cider Donuts, made by The Red Devon, a local restaurant. I couldn't resist buying a couple and they were quite tasty, with a prominent apple cider taste.

If you are in the area, definitely make a stop here.

Alpamayo: Peru in the Berkshires

While driving home from the Hudson Valley, we were on the Mass Pike in the Berkshires and decided to stop and grab lunch somewhere. I didn't have a specific destination in mind, and didn't know the area well. From a quick check on the map on my iPhone, it seemed there were a number of restaurants in Lee, so we pulled off the Pike and drove down Route 20 into Lee.

We parked om Main Street and checked out the options, and what most intrigued me was Alpamayo Restaurant, a Peruvian spot, so we decided to give it a chance. Just as we sat down, I received a message from Marc of Boston's Hidden Restaurants, and he provided me two recommendations for local restaurants, and one happened to be Alpamayo. I felt even better about my choice.

Alpamayo, which means "earth river," is the name of a mountain in the Peruvian Andes. The restaurant serve lunch and dinner, and they state that they make everything from scratch. Always good to hear. They serve "authentic Peruvian cuisine" that is "based on family recipes handed down through generations." Most of my prior experience with Peruvian cuisine has been from Chef Jose Duarte, the owner of Taranta, a Peruvian/Italian restaurant in the North End. Alpamayo is a small and homey restaurant, with a full bar, and wasn't too busy when we were there, though became busier as our meal progressed.

The menu has a fascinating selection of Peruvian dishes and the menu contains a list of Appetizers (12 options at $5.99-$15.99), Soup (4 options at $6.99-$15.99, Beef & Chicken (16 options at $7.99-$19.99), Seafood (15 options at $14.99-$17.99), Sides (9 options at $3.99 each), and Desserts (3 options at $5 each). It was difficult to decide what to choose as so much sounded delicious.

I started with a glass of Chicha Morada ($3), an ancient Peruvian drink made from purple corn, fruit and spices. In some respects, it was like a cold mulled wine, without the alcohol, full of fall spices but with some citrus flavors. It was mildly sweet and had an interesting taste, a good choice for an autumn drink.

As an appetizer, we selected the Choclo con Queso ($6.99), Peruvian corn on a cob served with fresh cheese on the side. This corn had maybe the largest kernels that I have ever found on a corn cob. They were more savory than sweet, with a slight nutty taste, Traditionally, the corn is paired with queso fresco, and the cheese added a salty element to the dish.

For entrees, one of our choices was the Arroz Chaufa ($13.99), Peruvian fried rice mixed with scallions, veggies, eggs & soy sauce. Arroz Chaufa actually means "Chinese rice," and was inspired by the numerous Chinese immigrants which came to Peru. It is served with either chicken or beef, and we opted for the beef. The dish tasted fresh, the beef was tender, and the rice was flavorful, with a nice blend of spices. We were happy with this dish.

Once I saw it listed on the menu, I knew that I had to try it, though the menu mentioned that it was not always available. Fortunately, it was in stock so I chose the Cuy, with potatoes and salad. What is Cuy? It's Guinea Pig, and has been eaten in Peru and other South American countries for thousands of years. For the Incas, it was their primary source of meat, and in modern Peru, they still eat around 65 million guinea pigs each year. Guinea pig is high in protein as well as low in fat and cholesterol. Don't think of it as a household pet bur rather consider it as an intriguing different type of meat.

Covered with a spicy red sauce, the guinea pig had a fatty skin but very tender meat beneath it, most surrounding the bones. There was white and dark meat, and it resembled chicken in texture and its mild flavor. Eating the meat off the leg was like gnawing on a chicken drumstick. If you didn't know what it was, most everyone would enjoy the dish, but many people probably couldn't get past knowing it was guinea pig. The sauce added a nice spicy kick to the dish, and the potatoes, covered by the sauce, were tender and tasty. I enjoyed my guinea pig and it earns my hearty recommendation.

For dessert, we shared some Lucma Ice Cream, Lucma, or lucuma, is a Peruvian fruit, also known as egg fruit because its flesh seems to resemble the texture of a hard boiled egg. It was creamy and had a taste reminding me of butterscotch with citrus accents.

Lunch was very satisfying, and I would have liked to try many more dishes on the menu. This is certainly a more unique restaurant, with its authentic Peruvian items, and you should check it out if you travel out to the Berkshires. The next time I travel to that region, I'll be sure to return.

And be willing to give guinea pig a try.

Rant: TasteCamp Multiplicity

TasteCamp 2014, the sixth annual event, is now over and it is time to reflect on my wine-tasting weekend in the Hudson River Valley region of New York. I've also been contemplating the event in general, looking back at the prior TasteCamp events. I've attended five of the six TasteCamps, missing one only because I was attending the Kentucky Derby. I think that's a valid excuse. Prior TasteCamps have explored Long Island, the Finger Lakes, Niagara (Canada & the U.S.), Quebec and Virginia.

Much of the credit for the origin of TasteCamp goes to Lenn Thompson, of the New York Cork Report. and over the years, a number of other people have contributed to its organization and success. In short, TasteCamp is a small, intimate wine conference that explores a wine region over the course of a weekend. The idea is to highlight some lesser known wine regions, areas which don't often garner much attention in the wine media. Though the concentration of this event is on wine, the event has evolved so that it now also explores local spirits, beers, ciders and food.

Over a three day period, you generally visit numerous wineries, meet various wine makers, and have the opportunity to taste 100+ wines. You'll probably enjoy a couple lunches and dinners too, often held at wineries. Approximately 25-40 people, wine writers and their significant others, attend each TasteCamp. The attendees pay for much of the trip themselves, such as travel and hotel costs, though some of the meals are partially or totally subsidized. Plus, there is no cost for the various wine tastings.

The focus of TasteCamp is on education about a wine region and sampling its wines. There are no seminars or classes on writing or blogging, though some independent discussion inevitably occurs when you bring together a group of writers. There is a strong sense of camaraderie, of shared experiences, though everyone has their own palates and knowledge levels. Each TasteCamp culminates in a BYOB party, where everyone shares wine that they brought, whether it is a local wine from their home state, or some other special wine from anywhere around the world.

I've found TasteCamp to be an excellent educational opportunity to learn about different wine regions, providing the ability to taste many dozens of wine that I normally would not be able to sample. You get to speak to winemakers, visit wineries, see vineyards, and more. Visiting a wine region is an invaluable experience, providing you background and context which you may lack if you have never visited the region. It is also a fun event, in part due to its intimate size, allowing you to get to know the other writers better. Though there is a core of regulars who attend most of the TasteCamps, new people join all the time, injecting new blood into the event.

There have already been discussions about next year's TasteCamp, mostly about where it should be held, with some suggestions ranging from Nova Scotia to Virginia.

So why haven't other groups of wine writers, in different parts of the country, tried to emulate the TasteCamp model?

Sure, the Wine Blogger's Conference (WBC) exists but it is a far large event, and much of its focus is on blogging. Though it takes place in different wine regions each year, attendees still only get a limited exposure to that region, It is not the immersion you experience at TasteCamp. Wineries from all over the world also present at the WBC, so it is about more than just the host region. And the WBC is a for profit venture, while TasteCamp is more a labor of love. The WBC is a very different model than TasteCamp, with different objectives. Both events co-exist without issue, filling different needs. I don't think there is any other wine event similar to TasteCamp, but that doesn't need to be the case.

Other TasteCamp-like events could be created, covering different regions, such as a Southern TasteCamp or a West Coast TasteCamp. The idea would be a weekend trip for writers to a local wine region, exploring in depth the wines of places such as Texas and Idaho. The event would be all about local wine, as well as other local drinks and foods. United as a small group, the writers could probably accomplish more than they could on their own. It would also be an excellent way to network with other writers. As writers, we should be seeking to expand our wine knowledge and experience, and a TasteCamp experience would help in this regard.

Yes, to create a TasteCamp-like event would take time, effort and money. It would take a core of dedicated individuals willing to make it a reality. It wouldn't be easy, but the results are worth the effort. I'm sure you would find plenty of writers willing to attend such an event, to learn much more about local wine regions. The audience is there. You only need a small group willing to organize such an event. Are you up to the task?

Or maybe Lenn is the only person crazy enough (though wise enough too) to start something like TasteCamp.

Sake News

Kanpai! Here is another short list of some of the interesting Sake articles that have been published lately. It is great to see more and more coverage for Sake, though I recommend that anyone seeking to publish a Sake article check it at least a few times for accuracy. A few basic errors continue showing up in introductory Sake articles, and those errors would be easy to eliminate if you had a knowledgeable Sake person check your facts. Let us also hope that we see more than just introductory Sake articles in the future. Sake has many depths and all those varied facets make great material for articles.

Today, let's explore the growth of Sake across the world...

1) Sake imports to the U.S. continue double digit growth! The Shanken News Daily reported that, in 2013, Sake imports increased by 13%, to 516,000 cases and domestically produced Sake increased by 1%, to 1.7 million cases. The top U.S. brand is Sho Chiku Bai, constituting 27%, about 587,000 cases, which is even greater than the amount of imported Sake. SakeOne, located in Oregon, grew by 8.4% to 89,000 cases. Joto Sake, a major distributor in the U.S,, should sell about 20,000 cases of Sake this year, and should be in 40 states by the end of the year. 75% of their business is with on-premise accounts, restaurants and bars, especially Asian spots.

It is always good to see that Sake imports and consumption continue to increase, and there is still plenty of room for even more Sake imports. It also seems many more wine stores need to be selling Sake. We need to break out of the misconception that Sake is only for Japanese cuisine. We need to educate people that Sake works well with all types of cuisines, and is also enjoyable on its own. There is much that still needs to be done, but we are making forward progress.

2) More women and young people are drinking Sake! A new article in the Japan News, stated that though Sake production has increased only a small amount in 2013, it is still only about 40% of what it was twenty years ago. However, if you look more closely at the numbers, and based on other reports, much of the diminished Sake production was to futsu-shu, and not premium Sake. In addition, Sake consumption by women and young people, who previously were not significant Sake drinkers, has been on the rise. A new survey indicates that Sake spending in 2013 has increased an astonishing 90%, since two years previously, in households of at least two people and which the head of the household is in their 20s. Where the head is in their 30s, Sake spending increased only 20%.

Part of this increased growth is due to a significant outreach to women, such as the Bishu-katsu festival, which for the last three years has been a large Sake event only for women. The Japan Sake & Shochu Makers Association has also held educational Sake seminars for women for the last ten years. In addition, Sake products are being geared to women, such as many more Sparkling Sakes, sweeter Sakes, and lower alcohol Sakes. When I have conducted Sake tastings, I have found that many women rave about Sparkling Sake, which is often fruity, effervescent and lightly sweet. I think Sparkling Sake can be a gateway to other types of Sake.

3) Sake and Pasta? In a recent Japan Times, Melinda Joe discussed the inroads of Sake into Italy. In September, the first Milan Sake Festival was held, produced by La Via del Sake, an NGO run by Marco Massarotto. An even larger festival is being planned for the Milano Expo 2015. The top two European markets for Sake are Britain and Germany, and Italy falls behind France, though only by a small margin. Italy's strong wine culture is seen by some people as an obstacle to their embracing Sake, though that shouldn't be an obstacle that cannot be overcome.

Sake and Italian food can pair very well, and I previously held a dinner at Prezza showcasing such pairings.The umami component of a number of Italian ingredients, from ripe tomatoes to Parmesan cheese, is an important reason why the cuisine pairs so well with Sake. Let us hope that Italians see the value in Sake, and realize it can stand beside wine and it does not have to be an either/or case.

4) Sake comes to Israel! Arutz Sheva is reporting how Israel and Japan have been working together, creating a stronger business relationship, including exchanges of export products. In Japan, a major Sake brewery, Katoukichibee Shouten, has made one of their brands to be Kosher, so that it will appeal to the Israeli market.A few different Sakes are being exported to Israel, and hopefully this will just be the start of a passion for Sake in Israel.