Thirst Boston 2014: Rye-sing Tide

"It doesn't get any more American than Rye."
--Dave Pickerell

In 1964, Congress passed a resolution, stating bourbon was a "distinctive product of the U.S." granting the term legal protection. This is akin to the protection granted to wine terms like Champagne, Sherry and Port. Thus, bourbon can only be legally produced in the U.S. However, rye has never received such a distinction and Dave feels that's unfortunate as he believes rye is at the backbone of American history.

I attended the Thirst Boston seminar, Rye-sing Tide: A Look at Rye Whiskey from Pre-Prohibition to the Present, which was led by Master Distiller, Dave Pickerell, who I recently met at Hillrock Estate Distillery in the Hudson Valley. Dave previously spent 14 years working at Maker's Mark. He now runs Oak View Consulting, assisting a number of other distilleries, such as Whistle Pig (the sponsor of this seminar) and George Washington's Distillery. He is nationally recognized as a whiskey expert, and his services are sought out by many distilleries. He apparently even has whiskey in his blood, as his great grandmother’s uncle was Colonel E.H. Taylor, said by many to be the father of the bourbon industry.

It is clear that Dave is a history geek, as you could see his joy and passion as he presented a history of rye production, leading up to the current resurgence of rye. He wove a compelling tale of rye, placing a more unique spin on its history. He also discussed the creation of WhistlePig, and some of his future plans. Dave is an engaging speaker, and this was an informative and fun seminar, with the addition of a couple tasty cocktails and a drink of WhistlePig Rye neat.

The seminar began with a video playing "America The Beautiful," to set forth the idea that rye is America's historic and patriotic spirit. Dave feels that the phrase, "For amber waves of grain," in that song may refer to fields of rye. The historic import of rye became more evident as we started our history lesson with the Boston Tea Party of 1773. The chests of tea that were tossed into the harbor were symbolic of Americans tossing away the entire British way of life, a rejection in many different ways, including some which you might never have guessed.

For example, horse races in Britain are run in a clockwise manner, so Americans chose to have their horse races, including the Kentucky Derby, do the opposite and run in a counterclockwise manner. As for our main topic, up until the time of the Tea Party, rum had been the primary colonial drink but that was rejected and rye took over as the most important spirit. The colonial army was provided whiskey rations, 4 ounces each day, and they drank rye, though the rations would be cut in half in 1790.

That reduction didn't last long as in 1794, the rations were doubled for anyone involved in combat, a response to the Whiskey Rebellion. This revolt was only tangentially about taxes, and was more about how those taxes were to be paid. In the East, people generally paid the taxes but it was people in the West who had issue, and it was something beyond much of their control. They were used to bartering for what they needed and often had little or no cash, but the government would only accept cash for payment of the taxes. They wouldn't accept barter for the tax, and if you didn't pay, you would be hauled to court in Harrisburg. This was a terrible dilemma for many in the West.

President George Washington assembled a large army, bigger than any that had even existed during the Revolutionary War, to put down the rebellion. This was the only time a sitting President has personally led an army into combat. A significant number of the rebels fled south, down the Ohio River into Kentucky, and I'll discuss the ramifications of that migration shortly.

In 1797, James Anderson, the plantation manager for George Washington, suggested that he should build a distillery and Washington authorized him to construct one, to produce a Maryland-style rye whiskey. Stills were considered a common item of farming equipment, used by many farmers to help balance out their farming activities, such as dealing with excess grain. Washington's distillery was so successful that it provided about 50% of the outside income to the plantation, despite the fact he didn't ship his rye further south than Richmond and further north than Alexandria.

When Washington died in 1799, the distillery was producing about 11,000 gallons of rye.  You'll find many sources stating that Washington had the largest distillery in America during that time, though the proof is not actually definitive. There were thousands of stills across the country, and their production levels are not always known. So far though, research seems to support that Washington's distillery was the largest in the country, but research is ongoing.  

Returning to the people who fled south after the Whiskey Rebellion, many settled in Kentucky, finding little, or no, distilleries there. However, they found much excess corn, an opportunity to make whiskey with a different grain. By 1810, there were 2200 distilleries in Kentucky, a huge boom in about 16 years. Unfortunately for rye, this was the start of bourbon taking its dominance over rye, especially as it was much easier for Kentucky to ship bourbon west rather than the rye makers in the East.

The previous whiskey rations for the military ended in 1832, though they would be reinstated in 1846 for the Mexican-American War, and would then last until the end of the Civil War, when they would vanish forever. During the Civil War, there were few battles held on Kentucky soil, but there were many troop movements through its territory, many that seemed to coincide with the location of distilleries, so that soldiers could obtain their rations, bourbon not rye.

Jump ahead to the start of Prohibition in 1920, and forget your conventional thoughts about what it entailed. Dave stated that Prohibition actually guaranteed your right to consume alcohol, if you possessed a prescription from your doctor. And there were many "ill" people who possessed such prescriptions. The government collected stores of alcohol, placing them into one of seven locations, as a precaution against theft. A medical organization was created to disseminate the alcohol, and the government soon realized that the supply, including much aged spirits, was decreasing, and that there might now be enough to service all the prescriptions. To increase the supply, they created a Distillation Holiday that permitted certain distilleries to produce more alcohol to meet the demand.

During Prohibition, whiskey from Canada and Scotland still found its way, albeit illegally, into the U.S., and Americans began acquiring a taste for lighter, blended whiskey. What was truly lethal to U.S. distilleries was not Prohibition itself but was actually the Repeal of Prohibition on December 5,1933. That seems counter-intuitive, that making alcohol production legal again would hurt U.S.distilleries, but there is logic behind it.

There was little advance notice of Repeal, due in large part to a group of people with economic interests in Canadian and Scotch whiskey. This group wanted a sudden Repeal, something to surprise U.S. distilleries, as this group was already set to capitalize on the legality. U.S. distilleries, who lacked advance notice, and who possessed little aged whiskey, had to play catch-up when Repeal suddenly came, and they had difficulty competing with the quality of this foreign whiskey. That would be the cause of numerous distilleries shutting down as they were unable to compete.

Prior to Prohibition, in 1918, about 83 million bushels of rye were harvested, though much of the production had shifted more to the west and north. By 1970, that amount had dropped to 37 million bushels. This was also when vodka started to see its rise in popularity which was another strike against rye. In 2007, only 6.3 million bushels of rye were harvested but some positive signs have been seen since then so that in 2013, 7.7 million bushels were harvested, a small increase. Rye is seeing a resurgence, and hopefully it will continue.

We enjoyed two historical cocktails,made with WhistlePig Rye. First was the Julep, which first saw print in 1784, and was originally made with rye. Second was the Old Fashioned, and though its origins are cloudy, it was first recorded in 1881 in Louisville, Both were very satisfying drinks.

There are two main styles of rye: Maryland and Pennsylvania. The Maryland style has a fair percentage of corn in the mashbill so the rye tends to be sweeter and grassier. The Pennsylvania style, also known as Monongahela (named after the river), has a high rye content so tends to be more spicy and earthy. Though both styles still exist, the terms aren't used much by producers, though I actually heard a couple local producers at Thirst Boston use the term Maryland style in describing their own ryes.

Rye is an excellent cover crop, and it grows well even in poor soil. No one makes GMO rye as no one has any interest in doing so. It just isn't a popular or important crop, worthy of GMO. In many respects, it is an ignored grain, which is only making a comeback in recent years. Dave has wanted to make rye whiskey for quite some time, but he couldn't do so while working at Maker's Mark. Then, in 2001, Dave became part of a special team to commemorate George Washington's rye distillery at Mount Vernon. This eventually led in 2007 to the cornerstone being set for a new distillery at Mount Vernon, the cornerstone having been sandstone from the original Capitol. Dave was hired to produce rye whiskey at this distillery, and it is where he learned the craft of rye.

In 2008, the distillery began their commercial run, making a whiskey of 65% rye and 35% corn. Dave noted the difficulty of making a 100% rye, as it must be monitored closely and really can't be left on its own. It is tougher to get to behave, but the keys are temperature and viscosity. Dave stated, "The stills talk to you." He meant that there are usually warning signs before any problems, that certain aspects of production will make strange sounds or motions, indicating something is not right. You thus need to be observant, watchful of the entire process to prevent any problems.  

The recent resurgence in the popularity of rye whiskey is due to a few different factors. First, the cocktail culture often desires authenticity, and when they started researching old cocktail recipes, they found that rye was a main ingredients in many of them. Thus, they started seeking out rye, to make their cocktails true to the historical past. In addition, "taste" became important again, and sourcing of ingredients mattered. There was also a shift from sweet to savory tastes, and rye appeals to that more savory flavor. Rye has become so popular, rising 50% last year, that it is now supply limited, and there might have been an even larger rise if more rye was available. New distilleries have been producing rye to feed this increased demand.

In July 2012, I first encountered WhistlePig Rye, and I was impressed with its taste. Whistlepig was founded in 2006 by Raj Peter Bhakta and he hired David to be his Master Distiller. They released their first product in April 2010. Dave's goal is to make the best rye in the world, a lofty ambition, and he tried to define what that might entail. He states it must be 100% rye, as it is a spicy grain that isn't supposed to be sweet so no corn should be added to it. There is still a need to balance out the rye but that is done through barrel  maturation. To avoid any issues with tannins, it is taken out of the barrel at a certain point and placed into a different barrel, giving a total of 10 years of aging.

The proof, the amount of alcohol, in the rye is very important. The alcohol should carry the taste and not "be" the taste. Dave admitted to a bias for higher proof alcohols, but knows it still needs to be balanced. Whistlepig Rye ended up at 100 proof, though Dave first did some taste testing with consumers to see what they thought about it. The average person thought the proof was lower than what it was, pleasing Dave.

Dave's goal is also to be the most transparent distillery in the world, and as part of that, detailed much about the evolution of Whistlepig, and its troubles with conforming to Vermont's twisty agricultural laws. The goal has always been to create estate rye whiskey, and that dream will become a reality in the new future. For a time, they had to obtain their rye from Canada and have it distilled there as well. However, they have finally overcome all of the hurdles in Vermont so that they can grow their own rye, and distill it on their property. They also plan to create a large visitor's center.

And lastly, Dave mentioned that he has another dream, to produce a Bottled in Bond whiskey one day

"Friday is Rye-day"
--Dave Pickerell

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I am back again with a new edition of Thursday Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting wine and food items that are upcoming. **********************************************************
1) Want to experience a taste of one of the North Shore’s newest restaurants without having to leave the city? Don’t miss Chef Christopher Jackson’s Chef’s Studio at Tavern Road. Prior to taking the helm at No. 8, Chef Jackson worked under some of the biggest names in the Boston food scene, including William Kovel (Catalyst), Dante de Magistris (Restaurant Dante), and Michael Schlow (Tico; Radius). Dominated by shareable small plates and modern takes on classic New England cuisine, Chef Jackson’s menu at No. 8 brings the best of city dining to Amesbury, and he’s excited to debut it in Boston at Tavern Road.

Featuring a new chef in the TR Street Food space each month, the Chef’s Studios series is a great way to discover your new favorite restaurant. This evening will feature a sampling of four signature dishes from No. 8’s menu of modern American Cuisine. Drinks ranging from tempting tipples to refreshing glasses of wine or beer are available courtesy of Tavern Road’s bar.

WHEN: Monday, November 17, 7pm
COST: $55 per person; alcohol and gratuity at cost
WEBSITE: http://www.eventbrite.com/e/chefs-studio-dinner-with-chris-jackson-of-no-8-kitchen-spirits-tickets-14014450599?aff=eorg

2) On Thursday, December 4 at 3:30 PM, the 5th Annual Crucolo Day Parade will take place, where more than a thousand residents of Concord will line Walden Street to pay homage to a 400-pound wheel of crucolo cheese whose diameter equals the size of a 3-year-old child.

The gigantic cheese travels from the Italian village of Scurelle, where it’s been produced by the Purin family for the past 200 years. Smaller wheels of crucolo cheese are available in the U.S., but only a handful of towns take shipment of this custom-produced behemoth, and only the town of Concord celebrates its arrival. The cheese retails for $19.95 per lb., and The Cheese Shop of Concord estimates that it will be sold out by December 24th.

The cheese arrives with all the pomp and circumstance given to a head of state:
--A parade featuring a ringmaster, a troupe of costumed mice, Italian music, prancing teenagers with Italian flags, a Miss Crucolo Universe, and a horse drawn carriage to transport the cheese down the town’s main drag.
--The reading --- and Occupy Wall Street style echo – of the 5th Annual Crucolo Day proclamation, read in English by the Chairman of Concord’s Board of Selectman, and in Italian by the cheesemaker himself, Quirino Purin, who will fly to Boston especially for this event.
--The ceremonial cutting of the cheese, followed by photo opps with the massive cow’s milk cheese, and public sampling.

The ½ hour event will take place rain or shine. Ample free parking is available in two public lots off Walden and Main streets.

3) When your child is sick, it’s hard to keep up a normal daily routine, and even harder doing so during the holiday season. This is something that Paul Turano, executive chef/owner of Tryst located in Arlington, and Cook in Newton, knows all too well, having spent time with his son at Boston Children’s Hospital’s Hematology, Oncology and Stem Cell Transplant Units during past holidays. Both Turano’s children have Severe Combined Immune Deficiency Syndrome (SCIDS), and when his son was just two months old he had a bone marrow transplant at Boston Children’s Hospital that saved his life.

This holiday season, Turano is once again giving back to the hospital that was there for his family by holding a holiday fundraiser for the Patient and Family Resource Room, a program that helps provide services to families whose children are being treated at Boston Children’s Hospital Oncology and Hematology Center.

In cooperation with Boston Children’s Hospital, Turano has set up a branded donation page online and will be encouraging holiday donations for the family resource program from December 1, 2014 through December 31, 2014. To donate, guests can visit the donation page online on either one of the restaurant’s webpages. In exchange for donating, Turano will give donors a gift certificate to Cook or Tryst (for up to $20) with proof of donation.

“I can’t emphasize how much the Patient and Family Resource Room helped my family and I when we were going through this difficult time. It’s because of their team and services that we were able to maintain a sense of normalcy and routine, and I want to be able to give that back to other families that are going through it,” said Chef Turano.

Funded through donations from area businesses and families, the 6th floor Patient and Family Resource Room is staffed by a patient and family educator who can help patients and families learn about their medical treatment. Receiving treatment for cancer and other serious disorders can keep families in the hospital for weeks and months on end, a process that takes a toll on their emotions. The Family Resource Room ensures that families who pass through the Hematology, Oncology, Bone Marrow Transplant, Neuro-oncology and Intensive Care units have the help they need at what is probably the most difficult time in their lives. It also offers a space for patients and families to relax and connect with others going through a similar experience. Whether the donated money be used for a morning coffee at the local Dunkin Donuts, or towards purchasing a generic American Express donation that can be used towards gas, or parking (daily routines that are often overlooked), each donation will help parents regain a sense of normalcy in their lives. With the extra help of these funds, Chef Turano will be putting the holidays back in the hands of these families.

HOW: Donate on http://fundraise.childrenshospital.org/goto/chefturano. After donation, present your receipt at Cook or Tryst to receive your gift certificate (of equal value, up to a $20 value).

ADDITIONAL: Limited to one gift certificate per person. Gift certificates cannot be combined with any other offer, and certificates to Cook cannot be used at Tryst. Non-transferable. To receive gift certificate diners must visit Cook or Tryst. Cannot be done online or via mail.

Thirst Boston 2014: America’s Incredible Whiskey Innovators:

The Paul & Sean spirits team is back!

Earlier today, I posted about Paul Pacult and Sean Ludford's first seminar, Rum For All, at Thirst Boston, I also attended their second seminar, America’s Incredible Whiskey Innovators: Why, How and Which U.S. Distillers Are at the Cutting-Edge. For this seminar, Paul and Sean led us through a tasting of 8 whiskies, providing us a glimpse into the experimentation and innovation that is currently occurring in American whiskey. There isn't an element of whiskey production that is not the subject of experimentation by some distillery. Even if those experimental whiskies are never released to the general public, the information gleaned from some tests can provide valuable data to those distilleries. U.S.distilleries are certainly not the only ones engaged in such experimentation, but this seminar was devoted to them.

Paul and Sean believe that distilling has come full circle, back to artisanal production, like what farmers once did. A couple hundred years ago, stills were a standard piece of farm equipment, and many farmers distilled small batches of excess grain, and each farmer probably did things a bit different from their neighbors. By the end of 2014, there will be approximately 480 craft distilleries in the U.S., with at least one in every state. And these craft distilleries are often doing things their own way,experimenting and innovating. Though some of the larger distilleries are doing the same exact thing.

We tasted the first two whiskies, from the Buffalo Trace Single Oak project, as a pair, an intriguing and enlightening comparison, These two whiskies were similar in almost every way. Their primary ingredient was rye, they had the same alcohol level, and were matured in the same type of wood, in level 4 charred barrels. The length of maturation was also the same. There was only a single different element, yet it led to markedly different taste profiles in the whiskies. And it is probably not even an element you have considered before as affecting the taste of your whiskey.

Interestingly, the difference was the location of the source of the wood for the oak barrels. For the first whiskey, the wood was sourced from the bottom of the tree while the wood for the second whiskey came from the top of the tree. That simple difference made a meaningful change in the flavor profile. Because there are more natural sugars at the bottom of the tree, the first whiskey had a more aggressive taste, and seemed a bit hotter. While the second whiskey, which had less sugars, was more elegant and mellow. This is something few distilleries pay any attention to, but a blind taste test showed that it is relevant.

Buffalo Trace, which I've visited before, engages in lots of whiskey experimentation, and much of that is not available to the general public, though they sometimes have a limited release of certain experimental whiskies.

The next three whiskies illustrated the effects of finishing barrels. In essence, a whiskey is matured in a usual barrel, and then spends a little extra time in a finishing barrel, such as a Port or Sherry barrel. There is no question that a finishing barrel will change the taste of the whiskey, but the true question is whether that change is an enhancement or not. Whiskey purists aren't too keen on finishing barrels, but they seem to be far more accepted than "flavored" whiskies. Yet, the idea of a finishing barrel is to add flavor to the whiskey, so in some respects, they are the same, Is it the manner of adding flavor that matters, and not the fact that flavored is added?

Whiskey #3 was from the A. Smith Bowman distillery in Virginia, the Abraham Bowman Gingerbread Beer Finished Bourbon, and it spends about two months in Hardywood Brewery Gingerbread Stout barrels.It didn't taste much like beer to me, bit there was a pleasant sweetness to the bourbon, more caramel and baking spices. Whiskey #4 and #5 were both from Angel's Envy, the first a Rye that spent 18 months in an old rum barrel, which once had been a Cognac barrel, and the second was a Bourbon, finished in Port barrels. The Rye certainly had more tropical fruit, especially coconut, flavors, and even an aroma of molasses. And the Bourbon too had Port-like elements in both the nose and on the palate.

The next two whiskies were both from Hillrock Estate Distillery, in the Hudson Valley,and included their Double Cask Rye and Solera Aged Bourbon. I recently visited this distillery and you can read my review here. Hillrock is seeking to create estate whiskies, which are reflective of terroir. Their whiskies generally possess notes of clove and cinnamon, a clear indicator of the terroir of their estate. I highly recommend their products, and was pleased to see them showcased at this seminar.

The final whiskey of the seminar was fifteen years old, but was very aggressive with a heavy texture. It was also from Buffalo Trace and its claim to fame is that its maturation barrels were a Level 7 char. Now, most charring ranges from levels 1 to 4, but Buffalo Trace really upped the ante, providing more char for the whiskey to react with, providing more aggressive flavors.

Let us hope all of these whisky experiments continue, expanding our knowledge and experience.

Thirst Boston 2014: Rum For All

Saturday morning at 10am. Ten glasses of rum were on the table before me. Just par for the course at the first seminar of Thirst Boston, the annual drinks conference in Boston.

The seminar was All For Rum & RUM FOR ALL! Why To Perceive Rum as You Do Scotch, Cognac, Bourbon, and was led by F. Paul Pacult and Sean Ludford, co-directors of Rum For All, an independent advocacy group, which "is dedicated to demonstrating Rum’s universal appeal to both the novice and expert alike and to making the case that Rum deserves to be included in the company of the world’s most hallowed spirits." This group was founded in 2011, and they have fifteen rum producers as members, an ever changing list that never surpasses 15 members. Paul and Sean have run numerous rum seminars across the country, spreading their passion for rum.

In addition, Paul is an author, the editor of F. Paul Pacult’s Spirit Journal, and a founder of both Beverage Alcohol Resource (BAR) and Ultimate Beverage Challenge (UBC). Sean is the editor of BevX, as well as a partner and judging co-chairman of UBC. They bring lots of experience and knowledge to this seminar.

As Paul stated to us, the basic purpose of the seminar was to try "to show that rum itself is one of the great spirits of the world." During the course of ninety minutes, Paul and Sean alternated teaching us about rum, and then tasting some rum. That way, the class seemed much less academic, and more a fun and informative method to learn about rum. And Paul and Sean were witty presenters, keeping everything down to earth and fun, without any hint of snobbery. They also did their part to shatter some common myths about rum.

Rum is produced from two main components, sugar cane juice or molasses, though you may see a few rums that are a blend of both sources. About 97% of all rum is based on molasses, so it is by far the most common method. In general, rums made from sugar cane juice tend to be more earthy and grassy, while molasses rums tend more to be fruity and nutty with baking spices notes, Paul mentioned that black pepper is a very common element found in all nearly rums (and many other spirits too). Molasses is an excellent fermenting agent as it possesses lots of sugars and actually has a fair share of nutrients as well.

Christopher Columbus brought sugar cane to the island of Hispaniola and found that it grew very well there. Because of that, sugar came soon spread throughout the Caribbean and South America, especially Brazil.  By the end of the first half of the 18th century, there were about 63 rum distilleries in Massachusetts and another 30 in Rhode Island. It was big business, and Paul and Sean didn't hesitate to raise one of the most ugly elements of rum production, the Triangular Trade. Slaves were taken from Africa to the Caribbean and forced to work on sugar cane plantations where molasses was made. That molasses was traded to the northeast region, where it was turned into rum, and then that rum was sent back to Africa, to pay for more slaves

All rum was originally made in pot stills, though by the 1820s, column distillation came around. It was here that Sean mentioned some common rum myths, such as sugar cane juice is better than molasses, and that pot stills are better than column stills. He stated neither was true, and that it all comes down to how you utilize the ingredients and equipment. That is applicable for all spirits, that utilization is such a significant aspect of quality. And a great way to prove this is to do some blind tastings, and see how your preconceptions might be shattered.

There was also a discussion on barrel maturation, and that barrels aged differently in different countries and regions. One of the most important differences is climate. For example, they discussed the "angel's share," that part of the liquid in a barrel that evaporates each year. In the Caribbean, Sean mentioned that the angel's share is more like the Taxman, a greedy bastard who steals 8%-10% each year, far more than would be lost in a cooler place like Scotland. With the increased heat, the spirit goes deeper into the wood, and more stays there, which also means the spirit ages quicker in the barrel. Sean also said we could almost look at Caribbean years as akin to dog years when compared to a place like Scotland.  

The art of blending was also discussed, the ability to use a larger palate to work with, to better craft the spirit to a particular style. As I've mentioned before, the art of blending is far too often an under-appreciated aspect of wine making, as well as spirits production. Rum with age statements might be missing out on the benefits of blending, stuck with a small palate, and more limited as to what they can create.

In the wine world, discussions of terroir are common,but you don't hear the term used as much in the spirits world, though that is changing. Paul and Sean claimed that terroir can exist in rum, though stating only a small percentage, maybe 10%, actually possesses terroir, a sense of place. And I don't think there is much controversy over their statement, as they were referring to those producers who grew sugar came on their own estates, have special sources of water, and more. It is those elements which can shine through a rum and bring to mind specifics from that place. In that respect, it is little different from wine.  

Finally, they discussed the versatility of rum, recommending that rum be substituted for other spirits in classic cocktails. That might be the best way to persuade someone to become a rum lover, by adding it to their favorite cocktail. Rum will present a different flavor profile, but one which is likely to appeal to many people. Though of course there are plenty of tasty rum cocktails that also exist, and can be used to convince more people to drink rum.

Throughout the seminar, we tasted various rums, generally having some relevance to the discussion at hand. It was a blind tasting, where we would first taste and discuss the rum before its identity was revealed. With each rum, Paul and Sean recommended a specific cocktail which was intended to best show off the attributes of that rum.

Looking at all of the glasses, one had a clear liquid, the first rum of the tasting. Usually, you would suspect the white rum was unaged, but that was not the case. It was the Brugal Especial Extra Dry, a blend of rums aged 2-5 years, but distilled and filtered so that it possessed no color. Designed for cocktails, Paul and Sean recommended the Mojito.

Another surprise of the tasting was the fifth rum, a tasty spirit with plenty of complexity and depth of flavor. It turned out to be the Bacardi 8, a blend of heavy and light rums with an emphasis on the heavy. Bacardi is sometimes looked down upon by rum snobs but the company has large stores of aged, quality rum, and this was an excellent example of that potential. Not all Bacardi is the same, and you shouldn't write off the entire brand. Try the Bacardi 8 in a Rum Old Fashioned.

The sixth rum was the Ron Abuelo 7 Year Old, which is from an estate in Panama which grows their own sugar came. They use two columns stills and two types of molasses, and the rum had intriguing flavors of earthiness, fruit and hints of smoke. It was held up as an example of terroir in rum, and it was recommended to use this in a Rum Sidecar.

My favorite rum of the tasting was fourth one, the Don Q Gran Anejo, which contains rums aged 3-20 years, It possess a complex melange of flavors and aromas, which will tantalize your palate. Silky smooth, it possesses a lingering and satisfying finish. It even possesses some Sherry-like qualities, which may also be a reason I enjoyed it so much. Though they recommended a Rum Manhattan, I would much prefer this rum on its own.

Another of the top rums of the tasting was the last rum, the Diplomatico Reserva Exclusivo, which is made from a blend of molasses and sugar cane juice, and also uses three distillation methods.This is a sweeter rum, a pleasant after-dinner drink or something to accompany dessert. Rich flavors of caramel, butterscotch and vanilla, with some baking spices and slight earthy notes.

Thanks to Paul and Sean for leading this fascinating seminar and tasting.

Thirst Boston 2014: Overall Impressions

“For art to exist, for any sort of aesthetic activity or perception to exist, a certain physiological precondition is indispensable: intoxication.”
--Friedrich Nietzsche

Yesterday, the second annual Thirst Boston ended, with a Bartender Brunch at The Hawthorne.and it is now time to reflect over my experiences this past weekend, as a media guest, immersed in the world of spirits, cocktails, and other alcohols, As I attended last year's Thirst Boston, I can compare the two, noting any changes, whether positive or negative, as well as their similarities. In short though, this year's Thirst Boston was an excellent event, informative and fun, tasty and interesting.  

The event was created and organized by a group of three locals, including Maureen Hautaniemi, Brandy Rand, and Andrew Deitz, though plenty of others contributed to the event's success, from presenters to volunteers. There were ample individuals at the event with the black Thirst Boston t-shirts, helping to ensure everything ran as smoothly as possible. Thirst Boston's intent is to be "...a gathering of bartenders, industry icons and beverage connoisseurs from Boston and beyond. Our goal is to educate attendees on the science, craft, and taste of all things related to the art of drink."

This year, Thirst Boston was held at the Fairmont Copley Plaza, in Copley Square, a change from last year;s Hotel Commonwealth in Kenmore Square. Though the Fairmont is a beautiful hotel, it is pricey, and room rates were $379, a financial hurdle for a number of attendees who might have wanted to stay at the hotel but couldn't afford such a high rate. Fortunately, there is ample public transportation near the hotel, making access easier. I would suggest though that next year's event be held at a more affordable hotel. With all of that alcohol available, it would be cool if people could afford a hotel room rather than travel home after drinking so much.  

The event started on Friday night, November 7, and ended on Monday morning, November 10, though the heart of the event took place on Saturday and Sunday. Ticket prices varied dependent on the event, and you could purchase one-day passes or a weekend pass. The Weekend Pass ($295), allowed you entry to three seminars each day, as well as several special events, including the Friday night gala, The Thing. I will note this is the same price they charged last year. A Saturday or Sunday Pass ($105) allowed you entry to three seminars as well as special events on the day you chose. Individual Seminars cost $25 each, $5 more than the previous year, and included access to several tasting events. There were four other main events, ticket prices varying from $35-$95.

Prices remain reasonable, and even if you are on a very limited budget, you still can experience plenty. For example, if you spent only $25 to attend a seminar on Saturday, you would also be able to attend, for free, two Hosted Bars, the Boston Shaker Pop-Up Store, and the State Lines: Portland & Providence Pop-Up. That is plenty of spirits and cocktails for one low price.

"Drinking is a way of ending the day."
--Ernest Hemingway

There was a nice diversity of events, including the Friday Opening Night Gala, The Thing, at the Fairmont Copley Plaza, The Roadhouse (a love letter to dive bars), Blender Blender (a bartender competition of frozen drinks), Bartender Brunch (at the Hawthorne) and various After Parties, at different locations and hosted by brands from Fernet Branca to Brugal Rum, from Sipsmith Gin to Hennessey. There were four Hosted Bars at the Fairmont on Saturday and Sunday, with drinks from French cocktails to Whiskey, Blood Marys to Daiquiris. There were also over 23 Seminars and a Boston Shaker Pop-Up. Unlike last year, there were not any book signings, which is something I think they should bring back next year. No matter your interest or preferences, there was probably plenty for you to enjoy, and there were certainly lots of opportunities to taste intriguing spirits and cocktails.

Most of the Seminars and tasting events took place on the lower level of the hotel,nicely centralizing much of the event. However, unless you were at a Seminar, there were very few places to sit down on the lower level. It might have been nice to have at least a small room, with a number of chairs, so people could sip cocktails and chat while they were between events. Though people could have gone upstairs to sit, I think it would have been better to keep everyone closer together on that lower level, as well as helping to facilitate social interaction.

Logistics wise, Thirst Boston seemed to run very well, with only minor delays for some seminars. That is very good, considering they only had about 15 minutes to reset each room for the next seminar, such as setting up and pouring the glasses for tasting. There seemed to be a good number of attendees, though it still was not overcrowded so wait times at any event were low. And based on some questions at the various seminars, only a small number were bartenders. Seems that there were numerous other industry people present, as well as some spirits and cocktail enthusiasts.

“Civilization begins with distillation.”
--William Faulkner

Thirst Boston is a very social event, with plenty of parties and after-parties, ample opportunity to drink and mingle with friends old and new, as well as to meet new people. Though I didn't attend the late evening parties, many of those who I spoke to who did attend seemed to have enjoyed themselves. And there might have been a few hangovers on Sunday morning.

One of the sponsors of Thirst Boston was Voss, who provided plenty of bottles of water throughout the entire weekend. That hydration was greatly appreciated, and beneficial to the attendees. I heard numerous people complimenting the availability of that water. I do wish though that there had been more inexpensive, quick service food available. If you wanted to maximize your experiences at Thirst Boston, you had little free time to grab lunch, so it might have been nice for some local food trucks to have been in the area. On Sunday, I did find the Bon Me truck at the corner of Clarendon and Boylston, not too far from the hotel, but I don't think many people knew it was there.    

Last year, I lamented the small number of people of color who attended Thirst Boston, curious as to the reasons for such but didn't find any answers. Once again, there was a lack of diversity at the event, and I still don't possess an explanation. I still would love to hear from people of color who love spirits and cocktails, who work in the industry, as to why they don't attend this event. It seems to be a welcoming event, one where anyone can attend, so I hope next year there will be more diversity.

Once again, Adam Lantheaume of the Boston Shaker, located in Davis Square, opened a Pop-Up store at Thirst Boston, offering a variety of cocktail related items for sales, from bitters to mixing kits, books to shakers. It remains the best cocktail supply store in the Boston area,

Bitters kits,beakers, shakers and more.

An excellent selection of some of the best spirits and cocktail books, including reproductions of old cocktail recipe guides.

Lots of bitters, a diversity of flavors, to enhance any cocktail.

And they even sell my friend Fred Minnick's book, Whiskey Women, which you can see on the left side of the photo.

“Here's to alcohol, the rose colored glasses of life.”
--F. Scott Fitzgerald

Each day, there were two Sponsored Bars, running from 9am-6pm. Essentially, you could taste some spirits neat or in one of a few different cocktails. And you weren't limited to a single taste. You could easily taste all of the different cocktails they were offering.

At 9am on Saturday morning, I started my drinking at the French Cafe with Domaine Select, opting for a Parisian Mimosa (pictured above). made with De June Vine Flower Liqueur, fresh ruby red grapefruit, Primaterra Prosecco, and Fever Tree Club Soda. It was bright and aromatic, with nice citrus notes. They also had plates of croissants, Danish, cookies and more for a breakfast snack.

On Sunday morning, again around 9am, I went for a Chipotle Carrot Bloody Mary, with a slice of bacon as a garnish, from the Bloody Bar sponsored by Absolut Vodka. Delicious, with an intriguing blend of spice and carrot, and some smokiness from the bacon. A perfect morning drink.

At the Daiquiri Time Out with Plantation Rum, my drink of choice was the Frozen Banana Daiquiri, which brought back the summer for me. Nicely balanced, it wasn't too sweet and the banana flavor seemed fresh. Refreshing and creamy, this would be perfect on a summer evening at the beach.

(And I'll be writing about the World of Whisk(e)y bar in another post).

On Saturday, the State Lines: Portland & Providence Pop-Up presented numerous cocktails from bars and restaurants in Portland, Maine and Providence, Rhode Island. Both cities are excellent culinary destinations, and they are getting well known for their cocktails too.

There was a party vibe to the pop-up, and the room was decorated in a nautical theme. There was a table with primarily cheese & crackers, to help cleanse your palate, several small tables where you could stand as you sip your libations.

I was pleased that no one fell into the rubber pool with the fake lobsters.

My favorite cocktails at this event were from Sonny's Restaurant & Lounge in Portland, Maine. Christina Klein is their bar manager, and the creator of two cocktails which impressed me, including the Brass Gorilla and the Rhinestone Cowboy. The Brass Gorilla (pictured above)reminded me of an old-fashioned creamsicle, creamy and sweet (but not overly so) with a slight herbal tinge. It is made from Absolut Vanilla Vodka, orange juice, Galliano, pineapple syrup, and Fernet Whipped Cream. The Rhinestone Cowboy was nicely herbal with a pleasant root beer flavor, and was made from Fernet Branca, Benedictine, Maine Root Sasparilla, Dashes Fee Brothers Gin, Barrel aged Orange Bitters, and a lemon twist.

The New England Craft Showcase presented 12 distilleries (and one cidery) from Massachusetts, Rhode Island, Connecticut, Maine and Vermont. Only New Hampshire didn't have any representation. This is always a fun tasting, letting people taste local spirits, to understand what is new and interesting in their own backyard. I will be posting in more depth about this tasting in another post in the near future.

"Work is the curse of the drinking classes."
--Oscar Wilde

Thirst Boston held 23 different seminars, 12 on Saturday and 11 on Sunday, and they each ran for 90 minutes. The seminars were broken down into 4 time periods, with 2-3 seminars in each period, and I attended six different seminars. They covered a wide diversity of subjects and they were well attended, a number of them selling out. Each seminar seemed to have 25-30 or so attendees. The presenters did well, and there were tasting components to all of the seminars I attended, and some of the seminars were even more interactive.

One of the best aspects of several of the seminars was that they engaged in comparison tastings, which I have long said is one of the best ways to learn about the differences of wines and spirits. When you taste two alcohols, which are the exact same except for a single element, you definitely learn how that element affects the taste of the alcohol. Maybe the barrel aging is different, or maybe the type of still that is used. Many of the tastings were also held blind, where you knew only minimal information about the spirit. That helped to prevent any preconceptions based on brand.

Another good aspect of the seminars is that they generally promoted an anti-snobbery attitude, helping to bust some of the myths concerning spirits, especially in regard to what is "the best." No one was put down for whatever they preferred to drink, and exploration and expanding your palate was encouraged. The seminars were often educational, but the presenters also made it fun, so it wasn't a dry, scholarly lecture.

I'll be posting specifics about several of the seminars I attended later this week.

Thirst Boston fills an important need in the Boston area, providing a large scale spirits & cocktails event. There are plenty of large wine events in the area each year, but spirits and cocktails have far less representation at large events. Their seminars provide important educational information, their tastings provide important opportunities for sampling, and their parties provide fun, social occasions. I look forward to next year's Thirst Boston and hope that it is even bigger and better.

If you attended Thirst Boston, what were your thoughts?