What were some of my favorite spirits and drink-related items of the past year?
Let me continue the lists of my best recommendations and favorites of 2014. I have already posted my Favorite Wine lists. This post will now concentrate on some of my Favorite Spirits and Drink Related Items. This is certainly not a complete list but it is more a sampling of compelling and memorable matters I have experienced and posted about over the past year.
This is also a purely subjective list, based on my own preferences, and makes no claims about being the "best" of anything. But all of the items here have earned my strong recommendations and I hope you will enjoy them as well. This is the first year that this category has been given its own post because I have tasted and reviewed a far greater amount of spirits, cocktails and other drinks this year. For more spirits and drink related items, you can just search my blog posts for the past year.
Favorite Spirits & Cocktail Event: Last month, Thirst Boston 2014 was held at the Fairmont Copley Plaza, a four day event dedicated to the diversity of spirits, cocktails and other drinks. There was myriad of interesting and informative seminars, tasting rooms, several parties and much more. The event was well organized, and everything seemed to run smoothly. It was educational and fun, with lots of great drinks available. This is the second year of the event, and I highly recommend you check out next year's Thirst Boston.
Favorite Cocktail Supply Shop: Located near Davis Square in Somerville, The Boston Shaker offers everything you need to create cocktails, except for the alcohol. Plenty of spirit & cocktail books, a wide range of bitters, shakers, stirrers, glasses, and so much more. They also run cocktail classes, book signings and other fun and informative events. It is an excellent place to purchase gifts for the holiday season for your cocktail loving family and friends.
Favorite Bourbon: The Hillrock Estate Distillery, in the Hudson Valley, New York, produces a Solera Aged Bourbon from corn grow on their estate. From my first sniff of this Bourbon, I was mesmerized. It possessed such an alluring nose, a complex blend of smells, and you would be tempted to simply sit with a glass and enjoy the aromas without even tasting it. However, the taste won't disappoint either, providing a complex melange of flavors, including caramel, vanilla, nuttiness, butterscotch, toffee, and plenty of spicy notes, There seemed to be be mere wisps of clove and cinnamon, mostly noticeable on the lengthy finish. This was a well balanced Bourbon, impressive in its complexity and quality.
Favorite Rye Whiskey: I received a bottle of Colonel E.H.Taylor, Jr. Straight Rye from my good friend, Fred Minnick, a well-known whiskey writer. I was surprised by this rye as I was expecting something with a bold spicy profile, and instead it was far more elegant and subtle. The taste was complex, silky smooth and filled with an intriguing melange of flavors. There were delicious savory spice notes, but also some sweet vanilla and caramel, complemented with hints of mocha and dried fruit. It was seductive on my palate, and the lingering finish left me craving more. A superb sipping whiskey,
Favorite Local Rye Whiskey: Made in a small distillery in Belmont, Massachusetts, the Damnation Alley Distillery Rye was an impressive whiskey, made from 72% rye, and the rest barley. The whiskey was aged for less than six months in a small barrel. It was smooth and spicy, more savory in taste, with a lingering and pleasing finish.
Favorite Highland Scotch Single Malt: The Aberlour A'bunadh is a cask strength whiskey that is aged in Oloroso casks. It is bottled only twice a year and made in a more traditional manner, which presented a compelling profile. It possessed a creamy mouth feel, with plenty of spice, dried fruit notes, caramel and a little sweetness. Lots of complexity, smooth and with a very lengthy finish. Simply delicious.
Favorite Lowlands Scotch Single Malt: The Auchentoshan Three Wood was matured in three different barrels, including American Bourbon, Oloroso Sherry and Pedro Ximenez Sherry. With a darker hue, you get more sherry notes on the nose, including brown sugar and raisins. The taste is rich and complex, with delicious flavors of caramel, dried fruits, baking spices, and nutty accents. It has some sweetness to it, but plenty of savory flavors too. With a lingering finish, this single malt intrigued and delighted me.
Favorite Islay Scotch Single Malt: The Bowmore 15 Year Old Darkest is aged in bourbon and sherry barrels, spending its final three years in Oloroso Sherry barrels, and that is why it has a dark amber color. This whiskey was smooth and complex, a delectable melange of smoke, baking spices, chocolate, dried fruit, vanilla and hints of nuttiness. The smokiness was around mild, but pervaded every taste, gently caressing your palate. The lingering finish seemed to go on and on, satisfying long after each sip. A superb Scotch that earns my highest recommendation.
Favorite Blended Scotch Whiskey: The Monkey Shoulder is a "triple malt," a blended Scotch whiskey, made from three different, Speyside single malts, from Balvenie, Glenfiddich, and Kininvie. Each single malt is aged separately and then they are blended together, and aged for an additional three to six months. This is a mellow and easy drinking blended whiskey, with pleasing flavors of caramel, vanilla and mild spice notes. This can be enjoyed on its own, of mixed into a variety of cocktails.
Favorite Irish Whiskey: Tullamore Dew Irish Whiskey is made from three varieties of grain, is triple distilled, and blends three types, pot still, malt and grain. It is aged in used bourbon and sherry casks. Though it is light and elegant, it has an certain intensity with flavors of citrus, spice, vanilla, and salted almonds. Easy drinking, this would be an excellent introductory whiskey.
Favorite Asian Whiskey: Kavalan Distillery, the only whiskey distillery in Taiwan, is producing an amazing portfolio of single malt whiskies. I loved the Kavalan Solist Sherry Cask Whisky, a single malt aged in Oloroso sherry casks. With a dark brown color, the same as an aged Oloroso, is provides an intriguing nose of dried fruit, nuts and spice. On the palate, it will remind you, in part, of aged Oloroso, with vanilla, nutty notes, spices, caramel, honey and raisins. It is fairly silky, with lots of complexity, and a very lengthy finish that never seems to stop. This is a whiskey you'll want to slowly savor over the course of an evening, reveling in its complex profile.
Favorite U.S. Single Malt Whiskey: Westland Distillery, located in Washington, is making serious whiskey, and is far larger than the typical craft distillery. Though it is still relatively new, their whiskies are impressive, and they will only continue to improve over time. The Westland Peated Whiskey, which even isn't on the market yet, is a whiskey you need to seek out soon when it becomes available. This Peated Whiskey reminded me of barbecued dirt, a smoky and earthy mix which I found especially compelling. The flavors were well balanced, and the smokiness didn't overpower the whiskey. It was silky smooth and delicious, with a complex blend of intriguing flavors, including vanilla, caramel, salted nuts, and subtle red fruit flavors. There were hints of chocolate, coffee and citrus, and the aroma alone delighted me. It was tempting to simply smell it and not even drink it, though I would love savoring a bottle with friends over a long fall afternoon.
Favorite Rum: From Puerto Rico, the Don Q Gran Anejo is a blend of rums aged 3-20 years and Solera rums aged up to 20 years. It possesses a complex melange of flavors and aromas, which will tantalize your palate. Silky smooth, it possesses a lingering and satisfying finish. It even possesses some Sherry-like qualities, which may also be a reason I enjoyed it so much. A high quality rum which I think is best on its own, slowly sipped with friends.
Runner-Up Favorite Rum: From Barbados, the Mount Gay Black Barrel Rum is distilled in both a column and pot still, and then aged in ex-whiskey casks and later finished in deep, charred ex-bourbon casks. Some of the rum used in the final blend may have been aged for up to seven years. The Black Barrel has a dark, amber color, like a fine whiskey, and if you tasted it blind, it would remind you far more of a rye whiskey than a rum. On the taste, there is a deep spice taste, caramel notes and a mild hint of vanilla. Layers of complexity, a lengthy finish (which has a touch of cinnamon), and a smooth, compelling taste.
Favorite Mezcal: Los Amantes Reposado remains my favorite Mezcal. Aged for about 6 months in American oak, it possesses a complex melange of flavors (including some citrus), pleasant smokiness and subtle accents of fruit. It is silky smooth, an excellent sipping spirit on its own on its own. It may remind you a little of an Islay Scotch due to its smoky accents.
Favorite Flavored Vodka: Though I am not generally a fan of flavored vodkas, I sometimes make an exception for those made more naturally. The Grand Ten Distilling Fire Puncher Black Vodka fits that bill, a collaboration with Grand Ten and Taza Chocolate. Starting with a chipotle pepper infused vodka, they add some Taza nubs and shells, and age it in an ex-bourbon barrel. With an alluring aroma, this is like a mole sauce in a bottle, a spicy chocolate mix that has a natural taste, not like the artificial flavored vodkas out there. An excellent cocktail mixer.
Favorite Local Grappa: The Hudson-Chatham Winery, in New York, produces two Grappas made from Baco Noir. Essentially, this is a distilled spirit using grape skins, and the grappa is produced for the winery by the local Harvest Spirits. The basic Grappa was aromatic and pleasant, with cherry and red berry flavors but the Grappa Reserve was my favorite. It sees some oak aging and was smoother, with delightful red fruit flavors enhanced by spice notes. It would be a pleasant digestif after a nice dinner.
Favorite Liqueur: The Ancho Reyes Ancho Chile Liquer, made in Mexico, relies on the signature crop of Puebla, the chile poblano. When this chile is dried, it is known as the ancho chile. This liqueur is lightly sweet with a spicy hot kick which will tingle your mouth but won't burn it. There are some other mild flavor notes beneath the spice, including some fruit and herbs. There are no artificial tastes in this liqueur. It is a very interesting liqueur which would be excellent in the right cocktail to add some heat.
Favorite Distillery Visit: My visit to the Hillrock Estate Distillery was informative and exciting, getting to see a distillery that is attempting to make their products as local as possible, a farm to glass operation. From their fields of corn, rye and barley, to their own malt house, owner Jeff Baker infected us with his passion for local spirits. It helped that their products, including a Solera Aged Bourbon, a Peated Single Malt and a Rye Whiskey were all delicious. If you visit the Hudson Valley, you must make sure to visit this distillery.
Favorite Restaurant Simple Cocktail: The classic Manhattan is simple, a mix of whiskey, sweet vermouth and bitters. At the Blue Ox in Lynn, they elevate this simple cocktail as a Barrel-Aged Manhattan, which is aged in oak for about two months. Barrel-aged cocktails are a new trend, and I found this Manhattan to be smooth and complex, with an added depth to it which is probably attributable to its aging. It is the type of well-balanced cocktail which I would have been satisfied drinking all night.
Favorite Restaurant Innovative Cocktail: At Fish Restaurant in Marlborough, I enjoyed the Spanish Armada, made from Torres Gran Reserva 10 year old Brandy, Fig Puree and Lustau East India Sherry. It had a prominent dried fruit and fig flavor, with some nutty elements. It was nicely balanced, without being too sweet, and it would also be easy to sit and drink a few of these over the course of an evening.
Favorite Cocktails: At Thirst Boston, there were an ample amount of cocktails for sampling and two of them especially caught my interest. The Chipotle Carrot Bloody Mary, with a slice of bacon as a garnish, had a tasty and intriguing blend of spice and carrot, and some smokiness from the bacon. A perfect accompaniment to breakfast or brunch. The Brass Gorilla was created by Christina Klein of Sonny's Restaurant & Lounge in Portland, Maine. This cocktail is made from Absolut Vanilla Vodka, orange juice, Galliano, pineapple syrup, and Fernet Whipped Cream and reminded me of an old-fashioned creamsicle, creamy and sweet (but not overly so) with a slight herbal tinge. If you want something sweet, this would please your palate.
Favorite Local Cider: Based in Salem, Massachusetts, the relatively new cidery, Far From The Tree, is making hard cider in a very old fashioned style, using primarily local ingredients such as apples and maple syrup from Central Massachusetts. Their ciders are clean, crisp and bone dry, with rich apple flavors, like a taste of autumn. The Roots is made only from pressed apples and maple syrup and is tasty on its own, and would also pair well with a variety of foods. The Rind is made with Saison yeast, coriander & orange rind, where the apple flavors are enhanced by citrus and spice notes. If you are a cider lover, you need to check out these delicious ciders.
Favorite Non-Local Hard Cider: From Virginia, the Potter's Craft Cider Farmhouse Dry is also an old style hard cider, reflecting the American farmhouse ciders. They use local, cider apples and tank aged the cider for 3-6 months What grabbed my attention was the complexity of this cider, the melange of aromas and flavors that I found within this bottle. Crisp and dry, it possessed bright fruit flavors of not only apple but also touches of pear, melon and even pineapple. A refreshing effervescence, a subtle tartness, a mild earthiness and a lengthy, pleasing finish.
Favorite Beer Drink: I'm not generally a fan of beer, but every once in awhile, a beer product garners my attention. At Bronwyn Restaurant, I tried the Stickum Uerige, a fascinating beer eau-de-vie, also known as "beer brandy" or "bierschnaps." Bronwyn carries three of their products, the Stickum Uerige Original, Stickum Uerige Château d’Yquem Barrel, and Stickum Uerige Plus Port Wine Oak Barrel. My preference was the Port Wine, which had almost no beer flavor, but plenty of concentration, depth and complexity. It does show Port wine characteristics, but you also realize that it is more than Port. There is enough acidity to balance the sweetness, and this may be my new favorite method of drinking beer.
Favorite Health Food Drink: I never would have thought I would have found a delicious health drink at the Seafood Expo. However, the Berry Kelp Smoothie impressed me. Made from bananas, frozen berries, mint leaves, kelp, and nondairy milk, it possessed a strong berry and fruity flavor, and you would never have known it contained kelp. This is a great and tasty way to get all those health benefits of kelp, and even veggie haters would love this smoothie. Kelp is gluten free and low in calories, carbohydrates and fat. It also is an excellent source of calcium, magnesium, phosphorus, potassium, and iron, as well as one of the few foods with the nutrient iodine, which is essential for hormone balance.
Favorite Most Unusual Drink: At the same Seafood Expo, I savored an Uni Shooter, a shot glass filled with uni, ginger beer, and wasabi. It made for an intriguing shot, with the ginger flavors enhancing the natural briny flavors of the uni, and with a spicy kick from the wasabi. These shooters proved very popular with the attendees, and there was a long line when they were offered.
What were some of your favorite spirits and drink related items this year?
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Monday, December 15, 2014
2014: Favorite Spirits & Drink-Related Items
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Shinkame Brewery: From Holy Turtle to Aged Sake (Part 1)
The Holy Turtle. Warm Sake. World War 2. Junmai. Cheese Pairings. Aged Sake. Honjozo.
What a fascinating interview with Yoshimasa Ogawahara (pictured above), the 7th generation owner of Shinkame Shuzo, a Sake brewery located in the Saitama Prefecture of Japan. Mr. Ogawahara made a three-night trip to the U.S. and his only stop was in Boston. It is certainly an honor that he felt Boston was a great spot for him to spread his passion for Japanese culture and Sake. I was fortunate to meet Mr. Ogawahara, taste some of his Sake, and speak about a variety of issues. I should also note that as my Japanese is meager, we spoke through an interpreter, Ms. Keiko Imazato.
Ogawahara is acting as an unofficial ambassador for Japanese culture, expending his efforts to educate and promote Sake, especially Junmai, warm Sake, matured Sake, and food & Sake pairing. His endeavors are not limited to countries outside of Japan. He feels that he has "accomplished his goal" with his own kura, Sake brewery, and now wants to help other kura, through education and fund raising, to produce more Junmai and matured Sake. He wants a greater diversity of kura, so that they can produce a wider diversity of Sake. All very worthy objectives, and he is certainly a passionate advocate.
The Shinkame Shuzo, founded in 1848, is located in a residential district in Hasuda, Saitama Prefecture, about an hour by train from Tokyo. Saitama Prefecture has 35 sake breweries, some excellent, natural water sources, and Sake from this prefecture is commonly light and fresh. Shinkame Sake though does not conform to this norm. The kura is small, producing only about 200 kiloliters annually, and they export less than 1%, mainly to Sydney and Vancouver. Though they have retained a California importer, they still haven't started selling their Sake in the U.S. They are seeking an importer/distributor for the East Coast too. Hopefully they will find someone so that we will be able to find their Sake in Massachusetts.
I first learned of the Shinkame Brewery in Saké's Hidden Stories: The Personalities, Philosophies, and Tricks-of-the-Trade Behind the Brew by John Gauntner. In a brief mention, Ishikawa-san, the Toji of the Taketsuru Brewery, stated how he loved the unique Sake from Shinkame, one which "begs to be gently warmed." It is also mentioned that "Shinkame" translates as "Holy Turtle," which I think is such a cool name for a brewery. There once was a shrine located behind the kura, and it was dedicated to Tenjin, a god of wisdom and scholarship. There was a turtle who lived there, thought to be a messenger of the gods, and the kura decided to name itself after that turtle.
Almost 100 years after Shinkame's founding, they and every other Sake brewery faced a great threat, one which destroyed many of them. Though everyone knows that World War II brought significant changes to Japan, you may be unaware of how it also negatively affected the entire Sake industry. In many ways, the war wrought devastating changes on the Sake industry and if it wasn't for the passion, advocacy and great efforts of breweries like Shinkame, the industry might never have recovered.
During World War II, there were significant rice shortages so alcohol and water was added to Sake to increase the volume of production. This added-alcohol sake is commonly referred to aru-ten, which is short for arukoru tenka ("added alcohol"). The added alcohol also helped to prevent the Sake from freezing, which was necessary for all of the Sake sent to the troops in Manchuria, a cold region in China. Some Sake was diluted so much with water that it became derisively known as Kingyo-zake, "goldfish Sake," said to be safe enough for a goldfish to live in it.
In addition, the government began forcing numerous companies, including breweries, to consolidate into larger entities, cutting the number of kura by almost 50%. Some of those closed breweries were transformed into factories for the war effort. Ogawahara's grandfather died during the war, and his grandmother ran the brewery, successfully fighting efforts to merge with other breweries. She sounds like quite the woman, strong and intelligent, and I'm sure her tale would make for a fascinating story all on its own.
Even when the war ended, it became the official government policy that Sake still had to have added alcohol. It soon became legal for breweries to produce Sanzo-shu, which was Sake that had tripled in volume from the addition of alcohol. Breweries, often located in rural areas, had difficulty getting workers as many young people were gravitating to the cities to work in the new factories and offices. That forced many of the larger breweries to begin mechanizing their production process, eliminating the need for as much labor. The techniques of producing Junmai were used much less and less, especially as it was so much easier to make alcohol-added Sake. Artisan Sake was becoming rarer, replaced by large-scale and mechanized commercial production.
As an agricultural student at university, Ogawahara was inspired to pursue a career in producing Junmai, "pure rice" Sake without any added alcohol. One of his professors lamented how his daughter no longer drank Sake, claiming that it didn't taste good, and preferred to drink wine. Ogawahara later went home and told his grandmother that they needed to make Junmai Sake or they would regret it. He wanted to revive Junmai, to stop making alcohol-added Sake, and produce a better tasting Sake which could compete with the alternatives, like wine. He wanted to return to a more traditional way, to the pre-war ways.
With the support of his grandmother, Ogawahara applied to the government to produce only Junmai but they initially rejected his request. He continued pursuing the matter though and in 1967, the government finally permitted him to make a small amount of Junmai, 3000 liters. However, at first, Ogawahara had difficulty selling his Junmai as it was too dry, but that didn't stop hiim. It wouldn't be until his third year of production that his Junmai started to sell. In addition, each year, the government was slowly increasing the amount of Junmai he was legally permitted to produce, though not without some harassment.
It took 20 years, in 1987, for Shinkame to become the first brewery permitted to produce only Junmai Sake. To Ogawahara, Honjozo is not really Sake. Currently, about 85% of all Sake is still alcohol-added, though Junmai is getting more popular, especially as Ogawahara is trying to convert other breweries to making more Junmai. Ogawahara states that the brewing process for Junmai is very different from that of making Honjozo, so it is difficult for some brewers to change.
Ogawahara states that the quality of Sake primarily depends on three elements, good rice, the amount of polishing and the method of koji production. The quality of rice varies year from year, sometimes being hard, and tougher to dissolve in water, or sometimes being softer, and easier to dissolve. To make a consistent product, the brewery will produce several lots and then blend them together to make their desired Sake. The brewery only makes Sake from October to March, and rarely takes a holiday during that period.
Besides making only Junmai, Ogawahara also is an advocate of maturing his Sake longer than most other brewers. It was his grandmother who used to tell him that a kura should not sell new Sake, and should wait to sell it until at least the fall, and probably longer. When genshu Sake is first diluted with water, it can take at least three months for it to mix together properly. It was said that some breweries would blend some older Sake in with new Sake to increase the volume, and create a better tasting "new" Sake. Shinkame would never do such a thing.
Many Sakes are aged for 6-12 months before release but those of Shinkame are aged for at least two years to four years, and a few even longer. The aging is now done in steel tanks, at temperatures ranging from 5-25 degrees Celsius. This lengthier maturation period is supposed to make a richer, smoother and more full-bodied Sake, and also one which handles well when warmed. His Sake should last for at least one to two years after it has been released.
Initially, they had trouble finding an exporting agent for their Sake as the agents they spoke to didn't want to export their matured Sake, wrongly thinking that the Sake wouldn't last long once it was exported. The Shinkame Sake will last as long as any other Sake, and maybe even longer than some. Ogawahara stated that more people need to learn to appreciate matured Sake, to get out of the preconception that only fresh Sake is good.
Besides their Shinkame brand, they have a second label, Hikomago, a term which means "great grandchildren." Some time ago, Ogawahara had an elder sister who wasn't married, and his grandmother didn't yet have any great grandchildren. Secretly, Ogawahara registered a trademark for the Hikomago brand, and created a Sake that was aged for three years: the first to represent children, the second grandchildren and the third to represent great grandchildren. He then presented the Hikomago Sake to his grandmother, a substitute great grandchild for her. Such a beautiful gesture.
To Be Continued...
What a fascinating interview with Yoshimasa Ogawahara (pictured above), the 7th generation owner of Shinkame Shuzo, a Sake brewery located in the Saitama Prefecture of Japan. Mr. Ogawahara made a three-night trip to the U.S. and his only stop was in Boston. It is certainly an honor that he felt Boston was a great spot for him to spread his passion for Japanese culture and Sake. I was fortunate to meet Mr. Ogawahara, taste some of his Sake, and speak about a variety of issues. I should also note that as my Japanese is meager, we spoke through an interpreter, Ms. Keiko Imazato.
Ogawahara is acting as an unofficial ambassador for Japanese culture, expending his efforts to educate and promote Sake, especially Junmai, warm Sake, matured Sake, and food & Sake pairing. His endeavors are not limited to countries outside of Japan. He feels that he has "accomplished his goal" with his own kura, Sake brewery, and now wants to help other kura, through education and fund raising, to produce more Junmai and matured Sake. He wants a greater diversity of kura, so that they can produce a wider diversity of Sake. All very worthy objectives, and he is certainly a passionate advocate.
I first learned of the Shinkame Brewery in Saké's Hidden Stories: The Personalities, Philosophies, and Tricks-of-the-Trade Behind the Brew by John Gauntner. In a brief mention, Ishikawa-san, the Toji of the Taketsuru Brewery, stated how he loved the unique Sake from Shinkame, one which "begs to be gently warmed." It is also mentioned that "Shinkame" translates as "Holy Turtle," which I think is such a cool name for a brewery. There once was a shrine located behind the kura, and it was dedicated to Tenjin, a god of wisdom and scholarship. There was a turtle who lived there, thought to be a messenger of the gods, and the kura decided to name itself after that turtle.
Almost 100 years after Shinkame's founding, they and every other Sake brewery faced a great threat, one which destroyed many of them. Though everyone knows that World War II brought significant changes to Japan, you may be unaware of how it also negatively affected the entire Sake industry. In many ways, the war wrought devastating changes on the Sake industry and if it wasn't for the passion, advocacy and great efforts of breweries like Shinkame, the industry might never have recovered.
During World War II, there were significant rice shortages so alcohol and water was added to Sake to increase the volume of production. This added-alcohol sake is commonly referred to aru-ten, which is short for arukoru tenka ("added alcohol"). The added alcohol also helped to prevent the Sake from freezing, which was necessary for all of the Sake sent to the troops in Manchuria, a cold region in China. Some Sake was diluted so much with water that it became derisively known as Kingyo-zake, "goldfish Sake," said to be safe enough for a goldfish to live in it.
In addition, the government began forcing numerous companies, including breweries, to consolidate into larger entities, cutting the number of kura by almost 50%. Some of those closed breweries were transformed into factories for the war effort. Ogawahara's grandfather died during the war, and his grandmother ran the brewery, successfully fighting efforts to merge with other breweries. She sounds like quite the woman, strong and intelligent, and I'm sure her tale would make for a fascinating story all on its own.
Even when the war ended, it became the official government policy that Sake still had to have added alcohol. It soon became legal for breweries to produce Sanzo-shu, which was Sake that had tripled in volume from the addition of alcohol. Breweries, often located in rural areas, had difficulty getting workers as many young people were gravitating to the cities to work in the new factories and offices. That forced many of the larger breweries to begin mechanizing their production process, eliminating the need for as much labor. The techniques of producing Junmai were used much less and less, especially as it was so much easier to make alcohol-added Sake. Artisan Sake was becoming rarer, replaced by large-scale and mechanized commercial production.
As an agricultural student at university, Ogawahara was inspired to pursue a career in producing Junmai, "pure rice" Sake without any added alcohol. One of his professors lamented how his daughter no longer drank Sake, claiming that it didn't taste good, and preferred to drink wine. Ogawahara later went home and told his grandmother that they needed to make Junmai Sake or they would regret it. He wanted to revive Junmai, to stop making alcohol-added Sake, and produce a better tasting Sake which could compete with the alternatives, like wine. He wanted to return to a more traditional way, to the pre-war ways.
With the support of his grandmother, Ogawahara applied to the government to produce only Junmai but they initially rejected his request. He continued pursuing the matter though and in 1967, the government finally permitted him to make a small amount of Junmai, 3000 liters. However, at first, Ogawahara had difficulty selling his Junmai as it was too dry, but that didn't stop hiim. It wouldn't be until his third year of production that his Junmai started to sell. In addition, each year, the government was slowly increasing the amount of Junmai he was legally permitted to produce, though not without some harassment.
It took 20 years, in 1987, for Shinkame to become the first brewery permitted to produce only Junmai Sake. To Ogawahara, Honjozo is not really Sake. Currently, about 85% of all Sake is still alcohol-added, though Junmai is getting more popular, especially as Ogawahara is trying to convert other breweries to making more Junmai. Ogawahara states that the brewing process for Junmai is very different from that of making Honjozo, so it is difficult for some brewers to change.
Ogawahara states that the quality of Sake primarily depends on three elements, good rice, the amount of polishing and the method of koji production. The quality of rice varies year from year, sometimes being hard, and tougher to dissolve in water, or sometimes being softer, and easier to dissolve. To make a consistent product, the brewery will produce several lots and then blend them together to make their desired Sake. The brewery only makes Sake from October to March, and rarely takes a holiday during that period.
Besides making only Junmai, Ogawahara also is an advocate of maturing his Sake longer than most other brewers. It was his grandmother who used to tell him that a kura should not sell new Sake, and should wait to sell it until at least the fall, and probably longer. When genshu Sake is first diluted with water, it can take at least three months for it to mix together properly. It was said that some breweries would blend some older Sake in with new Sake to increase the volume, and create a better tasting "new" Sake. Shinkame would never do such a thing.
Many Sakes are aged for 6-12 months before release but those of Shinkame are aged for at least two years to four years, and a few even longer. The aging is now done in steel tanks, at temperatures ranging from 5-25 degrees Celsius. This lengthier maturation period is supposed to make a richer, smoother and more full-bodied Sake, and also one which handles well when warmed. His Sake should last for at least one to two years after it has been released.
Initially, they had trouble finding an exporting agent for their Sake as the agents they spoke to didn't want to export their matured Sake, wrongly thinking that the Sake wouldn't last long once it was exported. The Shinkame Sake will last as long as any other Sake, and maybe even longer than some. Ogawahara stated that more people need to learn to appreciate matured Sake, to get out of the preconception that only fresh Sake is good.
Besides their Shinkame brand, they have a second label, Hikomago, a term which means "great grandchildren." Some time ago, Ogawahara had an elder sister who wasn't married, and his grandmother didn't yet have any great grandchildren. Secretly, Ogawahara registered a trademark for the Hikomago brand, and created a Sake that was aged for three years: the first to represent children, the second grandchildren and the third to represent great grandchildren. He then presented the Hikomago Sake to his grandmother, a substitute great grandchild for her. Such a beautiful gesture.
To Be Continued...
Friday, December 12, 2014
2014: Favorite Wine-Related Items
What were some of my favorite wine related items of the past year?
Let me continue the lists of my best recommendations and favorites of 2014. I have already posted my Top Ten Wines Under $15, Top Ten Wines Over $15 and Top Ten Wines Over $50 lists. This post will now concentrate on some of my Favorite Wine-Related Items, which are not specific wine recommendations. This is certainly not a complete list but it is more a sampling of compelling and memorable matters I have experienced and posted about over the past year.
This is also a purely subjective list, based on my own preferences, and makes no claims about being the "best" of anything. But all of the items here have earned my strong recommendations and I hope you will enjoy them as well. For more wine related items, you can just search my blog posts for the past year.
Favorite Wines Analysis: In my three prior Top Ten Wine lists, I mentioned a total of 42 wines, which included wines from 12 different countries. At the top was France, with 10 wines, four of them from the Alsace region. In second place was Portugal with 8 wines and third place went to Spain with 7 wines. About 60% of my picks came from just these three countries. Uruguay made a strong showing with 5 wines, and the Hudson Valley of New York had 3 wines on the lists. Chile, with two wines on the list, was the only other country with multiple listings. The rest of the lists included wines from Argentina, Austria, California, Croatia, Italy, Lebanon, and South Africa,
Favorite Discount Wine Stores: Consumers always want bargains, excellent value wines which won't stretch their wallets. You can buy the cheap, mass-produced commercial wines which can be found in almost any wine store or instead, you can seek out excellent, value wines which put to shame those cheap wines. Certain discount wine stores provide not only excellent prices but also an interesting selection and good service. I want to highlight three such stores which continue to do an especially good job, places where I go to seek bargains: Bin Ends in Braintree & Needham, Wine Connextion in North Andover, and Rapid Liquors in Stoneham. Shop at any of those stores and you won't be disappointed.
Favorite Wine Stores: This is a small list of wine stores which consistently impress me with their selection and service. Each shop is worthy of your patronage and wine lovers should make the effort to visit these places if you have not done so yet.
Lower Falls Wine Company in Newton Lower Falls
Winestone in Chestnut Hill
Vintages: Adventures in Wine in Belmont
Wine-Sense in Andover
Wine Bottega in Boston's North End
Central Bottle Wine & Provisions in Cambridge
Beacon Hill Wine & Gourmet in Melrose (where I also work part-time)
Favorite Wine Magazine: For the sixth year in a row, Decanter, a British wine magazine, continues to impress me with its extensive coverage, including many less common wine regions, often ignored or marginalized in other wine publications. Plus it has an amusing wine cartoon in every issue. This is a magazine that consistently delivers fascinating articles and I always look forward to each issue. If you are not reading it, you should be.
Favorite Wine Book: A comprehensive book about Spanish Rioja, The Wine Region of Rioja by Ana Fabiano, is an excellent resource. It possesses great photography, is easy to read, and provides lots of insight into the wine makers of Rioja. My favorite sidebar of the book was "Voice of the Vintners" which provides quotes from about 30 different wineries on Tempranillo. There is such poetry in those quotes, and they provide a fascinating insight into Rioja. If you read those two pages alone, I think you would actually have a nice grasp of Rioja.
Runner-Up Favorite Wine Book: An excellent introduction to the wondrous world of Sherry, I highly recommend Sherry: A Modern Guide to the Wine World's Best-Kept Secret, with Cocktails and Recipes by Talia Baiocchi. It is an easily understood exploration of everything from how Sherry is produced to a listing of Bodegas and recommended Sherries. There are also plenty of Sherry cocktail recipes and some food recipes as well. I love Sherry and it is great to see others advocating for it as well.
Favorite Wine Dinner: For the second year in a row, an Alsatian wine dinner was selected for this category. Compelling wines, superb food, and great people all combined to create an exceptional experience at Puritan & Co. As usual, the fine wines of Alsace impressed, showing diversity, complexity and value. In addition, three wines from this dinner were mentioned in my Favorite Wine lists. I'd never been to Puritan before, and the food more than satisfied. I'm eager to return to try more dishes from their menu.
Runner-Up Favorite Wine Dinner: At Alden & Harlow, I dined with Cristóbal Undurraga Marimón, co-owner and winemaker at Viña Koyle, a Chilean winery. Superb food, excellent wines, and plenty of stimulating conversation. It was also my first time at Alden & Harlow, and it too was impressive, from the Chicken Fried Rabbit to the delectable Lamb. Two of the Viña Koyle wines ended up on my Favorite Wine lists.
Favorite Private Wine Dinner: My vacation in Las Vegas this past summer, with several good friends, was excellent, and we ate and drank quite well. Our dinner at Sage was exceptional, with compelling food and wines, two of which ended up on my Favorite Wine lists. The wine list had plenty of intriguing choices, and the mark-up actually was fairly reasonable. The Sommelier knew his wines well, and the group of us thoroughly enjoyed the experience.
Favorite Wine Lunch: Taberna de Haro has the best Spanish wine list in the Boston, as well as the largest Sherry list. They make excellent Spanish cuisine as well, and this all combined for a special lunch showcasing the amazing Sherries of Alexander Jules, all three which ended up on my Favorite Wine lists. Sitting outside, we savored the Sherries and tapas while enjoying pleasant and interesting conversation. It almost felt like we were transported to the streets of Barcelona.
Favorite Large-Scale High-End Tasting: The Vintner's Reserve Lounge at the Boston Wine Expo presented an impressive selection of high-end wines, with plenty of tasty food. It was a major improvement over the last few Vintner's Reserve Lounges that I had attended. There were about 100 wines available for tasting, and it was a more leisurely tasting, without the large crowds that attend the Grand Tasting. Some of the wines from this event ended up on my Favorite Wine lists this year.
Favorite Large-Scale Tasting: The Mohegan Sun WineFest is a large, consumer wine event, which also showcases beer and spirits. In addition, there is plenty of food available at the event, to cleanse your palate and fill your belly. Its location, within a major casino, is also a plus, giving you plenty to do after the tasting is over. Several wines from this event have ended up on my Favorite Wine lists this year, which happens nearly every year.
Favorite Regional Wine Tasting: The Wines of Uruguay was such a delicious and informative event, a chance to try nearly 80 wines from 16 different wineries. Uruguay is an upcoming region which has previously been drinking most of their own wine. As their exports increase, you'll see their wines more and more on local shelves, and that is a very good thing. Sparkling, whites, reds and more. Lots of diversity, at all price points, and their signature grape, Tannat, is producing some amazing wines.
Runner-Ups of Favorite Regional Wine Tasting: The Austrians Like Them Young and Wines of Portugal tastings were also very worthy events. The Austrian wine event presented some nice comparison tastings of red wines made from indigenous grapes such as Zweigelt, Blaufränkisch and St. Laurent. The Portugal tasting presented about 200 wines, of all types, and offered a great overview of the wonders of Portuguese wine, from Vinho Verde to Port. Both events have wines on my Favorite Wine lists.
Favorite Twitter Wine Tasting: At a Twitter wine tasting, people from all over the world drink the same wines and then discuss them at the same time on Twitter. I have been participating in these tastings for years, and they can be lots of fun. The Crémant d'Alsace & The Spartans At Thermopylae presented four delicious Crémant sparkling wines, and plenty of interesting conversation on Twitter. Alsatian Crémant may not be on your radar but it should, offering excellent taste at a very good value.
Most Unique Wine Tasting: While in the Hudson Valley, at one of the grand tastings, I got to sample the wines from Pazdar Winery, which included two chocolate wines! Previously, the chocolate wines I have tasted have seemed artificial and overly sweet. However, these were actually tasty and interesting wines, with real chocolate and a restrained sweetness. These aren't your normal type of wine, but they are well made and would appeal to many people.
Favorite Private Wine Tasting: My good friend Adam, of Wine Zag, hosts a monthly blind tasting event which is always fun and interesting. A group of 15-18 people are assembled, and we taste through about twelve wines, usually with some type of theme. From Champagne to Southern Italian reds, the themes range wide and the wines themselves range in price and style. The attendees include wine newcomers and more knowledgeable tasters, but there is a lack of pretension and the casual atmosphere is one of fun and discovery. This is the third year in a row this tasting has garnered this honor.
Favorite Wine Trip, Domestic: This year's TasteCamp was held in the Hudson Valley of New York. It was informative and fun, and I discovered plenty of interesting wines and spirits. The region is beautiful and it was great to visit this developing wine region, which also possesses a rich and vibrant history. TasteCamp always does a good job of showcasing different wine regions, and this year was no different. Wines and spirits from this trip have ended up on my Favorite lists.
Favorite Winery Visit: While in the Hudson Valley region, our visit to the Hudson-Chatham Winery was a major highlight. Carlo Devito, owner of the winery, was an excellent host, leading us through a tasting of their wines, giving a tour of their solera, and feeding us lunch, including plenty of sliders. We saw Carlo's passion, and also saw the potential of hybrid grapes, such as Baco Noir. If you visit this region, you must stop at this winery.
Changes To Local Wine Laws: Last year, I wrote about two major legal issues, concerning wine, that took the spotlight in Massachusetts. Those issues involved shipping wine and removing the cap on liquor licenses. This year, positive progress was made on both issues, and hopefully that means additional positive changes will occur in 2015. First, in Rant: More Liquor Licenses Coming, I discussed how more liquor licenses were coming to Boston, and I hope these new licenses breathe life into certain neighborhoods. Second, in Rant: Caveats of Direct Wine Shipping, I explained how the new law allowing U.S. wineries to ship to Massachusetts is good news in some respects, but that there is still much more than needs to be done. Things are better this year for Massachusetts wine lovers, but let us hope it continues to improve.
My Wine Honor: In November, I received a great honor, being inducted as a Knight in the Brotherhood of Port Wine. The rank of Cavaleiro (Knight) is given to those who “have made a significant contribution to the understanding and prestige of Port Wine.” Only 13 people were inducted as Cavaleiros at the ceremony, and there are about 1300 worldwide. I took an oath to defend the honor of Port wine, so you can look forward to more articles about Port in 2015.
What were some of your favorite wine-related items this year?
Let me continue the lists of my best recommendations and favorites of 2014. I have already posted my Top Ten Wines Under $15, Top Ten Wines Over $15 and Top Ten Wines Over $50 lists. This post will now concentrate on some of my Favorite Wine-Related Items, which are not specific wine recommendations. This is certainly not a complete list but it is more a sampling of compelling and memorable matters I have experienced and posted about over the past year.
This is also a purely subjective list, based on my own preferences, and makes no claims about being the "best" of anything. But all of the items here have earned my strong recommendations and I hope you will enjoy them as well. For more wine related items, you can just search my blog posts for the past year.
Favorite Wines Analysis: In my three prior Top Ten Wine lists, I mentioned a total of 42 wines, which included wines from 12 different countries. At the top was France, with 10 wines, four of them from the Alsace region. In second place was Portugal with 8 wines and third place went to Spain with 7 wines. About 60% of my picks came from just these three countries. Uruguay made a strong showing with 5 wines, and the Hudson Valley of New York had 3 wines on the lists. Chile, with two wines on the list, was the only other country with multiple listings. The rest of the lists included wines from Argentina, Austria, California, Croatia, Italy, Lebanon, and South Africa,
Favorite Discount Wine Stores: Consumers always want bargains, excellent value wines which won't stretch their wallets. You can buy the cheap, mass-produced commercial wines which can be found in almost any wine store or instead, you can seek out excellent, value wines which put to shame those cheap wines. Certain discount wine stores provide not only excellent prices but also an interesting selection and good service. I want to highlight three such stores which continue to do an especially good job, places where I go to seek bargains: Bin Ends in Braintree & Needham, Wine Connextion in North Andover, and Rapid Liquors in Stoneham. Shop at any of those stores and you won't be disappointed.
Favorite Wine Stores: This is a small list of wine stores which consistently impress me with their selection and service. Each shop is worthy of your patronage and wine lovers should make the effort to visit these places if you have not done so yet.
Lower Falls Wine Company in Newton Lower Falls
Winestone in Chestnut Hill
Vintages: Adventures in Wine in Belmont
Wine-Sense in Andover
Wine Bottega in Boston's North End
Central Bottle Wine & Provisions in Cambridge
Beacon Hill Wine & Gourmet in Melrose (where I also work part-time)
Favorite Wine Magazine: For the sixth year in a row, Decanter, a British wine magazine, continues to impress me with its extensive coverage, including many less common wine regions, often ignored or marginalized in other wine publications. Plus it has an amusing wine cartoon in every issue. This is a magazine that consistently delivers fascinating articles and I always look forward to each issue. If you are not reading it, you should be.
Favorite Wine Book: A comprehensive book about Spanish Rioja, The Wine Region of Rioja by Ana Fabiano, is an excellent resource. It possesses great photography, is easy to read, and provides lots of insight into the wine makers of Rioja. My favorite sidebar of the book was "Voice of the Vintners" which provides quotes from about 30 different wineries on Tempranillo. There is such poetry in those quotes, and they provide a fascinating insight into Rioja. If you read those two pages alone, I think you would actually have a nice grasp of Rioja.
Runner-Up Favorite Wine Book: An excellent introduction to the wondrous world of Sherry, I highly recommend Sherry: A Modern Guide to the Wine World's Best-Kept Secret, with Cocktails and Recipes by Talia Baiocchi. It is an easily understood exploration of everything from how Sherry is produced to a listing of Bodegas and recommended Sherries. There are also plenty of Sherry cocktail recipes and some food recipes as well. I love Sherry and it is great to see others advocating for it as well.
Favorite Wine Dinner: For the second year in a row, an Alsatian wine dinner was selected for this category. Compelling wines, superb food, and great people all combined to create an exceptional experience at Puritan & Co. As usual, the fine wines of Alsace impressed, showing diversity, complexity and value. In addition, three wines from this dinner were mentioned in my Favorite Wine lists. I'd never been to Puritan before, and the food more than satisfied. I'm eager to return to try more dishes from their menu.
Runner-Up Favorite Wine Dinner: At Alden & Harlow, I dined with Cristóbal Undurraga Marimón, co-owner and winemaker at Viña Koyle, a Chilean winery. Superb food, excellent wines, and plenty of stimulating conversation. It was also my first time at Alden & Harlow, and it too was impressive, from the Chicken Fried Rabbit to the delectable Lamb. Two of the Viña Koyle wines ended up on my Favorite Wine lists.
Favorite Private Wine Dinner: My vacation in Las Vegas this past summer, with several good friends, was excellent, and we ate and drank quite well. Our dinner at Sage was exceptional, with compelling food and wines, two of which ended up on my Favorite Wine lists. The wine list had plenty of intriguing choices, and the mark-up actually was fairly reasonable. The Sommelier knew his wines well, and the group of us thoroughly enjoyed the experience.
Favorite Wine Lunch: Taberna de Haro has the best Spanish wine list in the Boston, as well as the largest Sherry list. They make excellent Spanish cuisine as well, and this all combined for a special lunch showcasing the amazing Sherries of Alexander Jules, all three which ended up on my Favorite Wine lists. Sitting outside, we savored the Sherries and tapas while enjoying pleasant and interesting conversation. It almost felt like we were transported to the streets of Barcelona.
Favorite Large-Scale High-End Tasting: The Vintner's Reserve Lounge at the Boston Wine Expo presented an impressive selection of high-end wines, with plenty of tasty food. It was a major improvement over the last few Vintner's Reserve Lounges that I had attended. There were about 100 wines available for tasting, and it was a more leisurely tasting, without the large crowds that attend the Grand Tasting. Some of the wines from this event ended up on my Favorite Wine lists this year.
Favorite Large-Scale Tasting: The Mohegan Sun WineFest is a large, consumer wine event, which also showcases beer and spirits. In addition, there is plenty of food available at the event, to cleanse your palate and fill your belly. Its location, within a major casino, is also a plus, giving you plenty to do after the tasting is over. Several wines from this event have ended up on my Favorite Wine lists this year, which happens nearly every year.
Favorite Regional Wine Tasting: The Wines of Uruguay was such a delicious and informative event, a chance to try nearly 80 wines from 16 different wineries. Uruguay is an upcoming region which has previously been drinking most of their own wine. As their exports increase, you'll see their wines more and more on local shelves, and that is a very good thing. Sparkling, whites, reds and more. Lots of diversity, at all price points, and their signature grape, Tannat, is producing some amazing wines.
Runner-Ups of Favorite Regional Wine Tasting: The Austrians Like Them Young and Wines of Portugal tastings were also very worthy events. The Austrian wine event presented some nice comparison tastings of red wines made from indigenous grapes such as Zweigelt, Blaufränkisch and St. Laurent. The Portugal tasting presented about 200 wines, of all types, and offered a great overview of the wonders of Portuguese wine, from Vinho Verde to Port. Both events have wines on my Favorite Wine lists.
Favorite Twitter Wine Tasting: At a Twitter wine tasting, people from all over the world drink the same wines and then discuss them at the same time on Twitter. I have been participating in these tastings for years, and they can be lots of fun. The Crémant d'Alsace & The Spartans At Thermopylae presented four delicious Crémant sparkling wines, and plenty of interesting conversation on Twitter. Alsatian Crémant may not be on your radar but it should, offering excellent taste at a very good value.
Most Unique Wine Tasting: While in the Hudson Valley, at one of the grand tastings, I got to sample the wines from Pazdar Winery, which included two chocolate wines! Previously, the chocolate wines I have tasted have seemed artificial and overly sweet. However, these were actually tasty and interesting wines, with real chocolate and a restrained sweetness. These aren't your normal type of wine, but they are well made and would appeal to many people.
Favorite Private Wine Tasting: My good friend Adam, of Wine Zag, hosts a monthly blind tasting event which is always fun and interesting. A group of 15-18 people are assembled, and we taste through about twelve wines, usually with some type of theme. From Champagne to Southern Italian reds, the themes range wide and the wines themselves range in price and style. The attendees include wine newcomers and more knowledgeable tasters, but there is a lack of pretension and the casual atmosphere is one of fun and discovery. This is the third year in a row this tasting has garnered this honor.
Favorite Wine Trip, Domestic: This year's TasteCamp was held in the Hudson Valley of New York. It was informative and fun, and I discovered plenty of interesting wines and spirits. The region is beautiful and it was great to visit this developing wine region, which also possesses a rich and vibrant history. TasteCamp always does a good job of showcasing different wine regions, and this year was no different. Wines and spirits from this trip have ended up on my Favorite lists.
Favorite Winery Visit: While in the Hudson Valley region, our visit to the Hudson-Chatham Winery was a major highlight. Carlo Devito, owner of the winery, was an excellent host, leading us through a tasting of their wines, giving a tour of their solera, and feeding us lunch, including plenty of sliders. We saw Carlo's passion, and also saw the potential of hybrid grapes, such as Baco Noir. If you visit this region, you must stop at this winery.
Changes To Local Wine Laws: Last year, I wrote about two major legal issues, concerning wine, that took the spotlight in Massachusetts. Those issues involved shipping wine and removing the cap on liquor licenses. This year, positive progress was made on both issues, and hopefully that means additional positive changes will occur in 2015. First, in Rant: More Liquor Licenses Coming, I discussed how more liquor licenses were coming to Boston, and I hope these new licenses breathe life into certain neighborhoods. Second, in Rant: Caveats of Direct Wine Shipping, I explained how the new law allowing U.S. wineries to ship to Massachusetts is good news in some respects, but that there is still much more than needs to be done. Things are better this year for Massachusetts wine lovers, but let us hope it continues to improve.
My Wine Honor: In November, I received a great honor, being inducted as a Knight in the Brotherhood of Port Wine. The rank of Cavaleiro (Knight) is given to those who “have made a significant contribution to the understanding and prestige of Port Wine.” Only 13 people were inducted as Cavaleiros at the ceremony, and there are about 1300 worldwide. I took an oath to defend the honor of Port wine, so you can look forward to more articles about Port in 2015.
What were some of your favorite wine-related items this year?
Labels:
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Thursday, December 11, 2014
Thursday Sips &Nibbles
I am back again with a new edition of Thursday Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting wine and food items that are upcoming.
**********************************************************
1) This New Year’s Eve guests can wine, dine and ring in 2015 at Pier 6, in Charlestown. On Wednesday, December 31, 5pm-1am, guests are invited to a special New Year’s Eve dinner celebration. This year Pier 6 is offering two special New Year’s Eve options that are sure to satisfy everyone.
From 5pm-10pm, guests can relax and enjoy a New Year’s Eve dinner. Pier 6’s Executive Chef Adriano Silva will be serving a special 3 course, prix fixe dinner, which will include dishes such as French onion soup with gruyere and croutons, swordfish with acorn squash, roasted cauliflower and apple puree, and rib-eye steak with rosemary fingerling potatoes, Swiss chard, and beer mushroom gravy. The prix fixe menu is available for $55 per person and will be served in addition to the regular menu. Reservations are strongly recommended and can be made by calling 617-337-0054.
Pier 6 is continuing the festivities with its “Finale New Year’s Eve Party.” Starting at 9pm, top 40 and hip-hop dance music from DJ Matty D will be playing all night long. Guests can take a break from partying to fuel up on delectable hors d'oeuvres and bar snacks served from 9PM to 11PM, and throughout the evening they can sip on draft beers, wine or signature cocktails as they countdown to the New Year. When the clock strikes midnight say goodbye to 2014 and ring in 2015 with a complimentary champagne toast and a spectacular view of the fireworks show over Boston Harbor. Fireworks begin at 12am and the bar is open until 1am. Early bird tickets are $40 for the first 50 attendees. Afterwards tickets are $50 per person and must be purchased in advance by visiting http://thefinale15.eventbrite.com.
2) When customers begin pounding on your front door weekend mornings, begging you to open up, you know that its time to offer brunch. Menotomy Grill & Tavern now offers a weekly-changing blackboard menu of brunch items, served every Saturday and Sunday from 11am-4pm. Proprietor Billy Lyons has lined up some cool live jazz to complement the Tavern's warm stone fireplace and coppery bar.
Executive Chef Mark Thomson (formerly of CHEZ HENRI) offers:
* The Monte Cristo: The ultimate hangover reliever. Challah French toast filled with smoked pork shoulder and ham, gruyere, apples and onions
* Cream Cheese-Stuffed French Toast with Mixed Berry Compote
* Southern Fried Chicken, Buttermilk Biscuit, Sausage Gravy
* Seasonally-inspired Omelets and Quiches
* Classic Eggs Benedict
* Huevos Rancheros
Menotomy Grill also pours its secret family recipe Bloody Mary, along with hefty 20-ounce draught beers from its list of 40 varieties, including Battle Road 1776 Tavern Ale Slumbrew Attic & Eaves Wormtown Be Hoppy IPA and Allagash White.
3) Tim Maslow of Ribelle & Strip T's and James Mark of North in Providence are teaming up once again to host a special New Year's Eve celebration in Washington Square, This year, join them for a French-inspired nine-course dinner prepared by the two Momofuku alums. Beverage pairings featuring fine & rare wines also available. Only 100 tickets will be offered for this dinner.
THE MENU (subject to change)
first
Canapes
second
Crudo
third
Caviar
fourth
Vegetable
fifth
Biqsue
sixth
Foie Gras
seventh
Lamb
eighth
Cheese
ninth
Dessert
take home
A special treat from Ribelle & North
Tickets are $175/person, $250/person with pairings (excludes tax & gratuity).
Tickets can be purchased only online — https://nyeribellenorth.eventbrite.com.
The fine print:
If you have friends with the same reservation time as you, give them a call, and they'll make sure you're seated together.
All beverages will be available ala carte and charged separately (unless a ticket is purchased for beverage pairing).
Due to the nature of this dinner, they are unable to accommodate fish, shellfish, and gluten allergies.
Please call Ribelle at 617-232-2322 for questions.
4) On Wednesday, December 31, from 10pm-1:30am, Legal Harborside will celebrate New Year’s Eve under the stars at Liberty Wharf this year. Hosted atop the roof in a glass-enclosed space, it is the closest one comes to being in a snow globe. At this celebration bidding adieu to 2014 and welcoming 2015, revelers will delight in the picturesque winter scene – complete with Legal Harborside’s cozy, copper-clad fireplace – and will eat, drink and be merry with a bird’s eye view of First Night’s midnight fireworks overlooking Boston Harbor.
In addition to being supplied with festive noisemakers and hats, tickets to this sky-high soiree include a live deejay and a midnight toast with Moët & Chandon "Imperial" Brut NV bubbly. Legal Harborside will also offer table reservations to this year-end celebration.
COST: General admission: $75 per person Reserved couch/table: $550 per group (up to six people)
Tickets and tables may be reserved online. Tickets purchased are non-refundable and have no cash value. Limited tickets and table reservations are available. Access to the event will only be granted to guests with a ticket receipt and 21+ ID. Guests may order select a la carte items from Legal Harborside’s rooftop menu up until 12am.
5) Pastoral owners George Lewis and Todd Winer invite guests to Pastoral for an afternoon of helping those in need during the holidays. Pastoral invites guests to celebrate the holidays while helping a worthy cause this Sunday, December 14, from 4pm until 6pm. With the donation of a new or slightly worn children’s coat, guests will be offered complimentary food and beverages. Coats will be donated to Cradles to Crayons in time for the holidays. Tickets to the Pastoral For Parkas holiday party are available by logging onto www.eventbrite.com “Pastoral for Parkas”.
For more information and reservations, please call (617) 345-0005 or visit www.eventbrite.com “Pastoral for Parkas”
1) This New Year’s Eve guests can wine, dine and ring in 2015 at Pier 6, in Charlestown. On Wednesday, December 31, 5pm-1am, guests are invited to a special New Year’s Eve dinner celebration. This year Pier 6 is offering two special New Year’s Eve options that are sure to satisfy everyone.
From 5pm-10pm, guests can relax and enjoy a New Year’s Eve dinner. Pier 6’s Executive Chef Adriano Silva will be serving a special 3 course, prix fixe dinner, which will include dishes such as French onion soup with gruyere and croutons, swordfish with acorn squash, roasted cauliflower and apple puree, and rib-eye steak with rosemary fingerling potatoes, Swiss chard, and beer mushroom gravy. The prix fixe menu is available for $55 per person and will be served in addition to the regular menu. Reservations are strongly recommended and can be made by calling 617-337-0054.
Pier 6 is continuing the festivities with its “Finale New Year’s Eve Party.” Starting at 9pm, top 40 and hip-hop dance music from DJ Matty D will be playing all night long. Guests can take a break from partying to fuel up on delectable hors d'oeuvres and bar snacks served from 9PM to 11PM, and throughout the evening they can sip on draft beers, wine or signature cocktails as they countdown to the New Year. When the clock strikes midnight say goodbye to 2014 and ring in 2015 with a complimentary champagne toast and a spectacular view of the fireworks show over Boston Harbor. Fireworks begin at 12am and the bar is open until 1am. Early bird tickets are $40 for the first 50 attendees. Afterwards tickets are $50 per person and must be purchased in advance by visiting http://thefinale15.eventbrite.com.
2) When customers begin pounding on your front door weekend mornings, begging you to open up, you know that its time to offer brunch. Menotomy Grill & Tavern now offers a weekly-changing blackboard menu of brunch items, served every Saturday and Sunday from 11am-4pm. Proprietor Billy Lyons has lined up some cool live jazz to complement the Tavern's warm stone fireplace and coppery bar.
Executive Chef Mark Thomson (formerly of CHEZ HENRI) offers:
* The Monte Cristo: The ultimate hangover reliever. Challah French toast filled with smoked pork shoulder and ham, gruyere, apples and onions
* Cream Cheese-Stuffed French Toast with Mixed Berry Compote
* Southern Fried Chicken, Buttermilk Biscuit, Sausage Gravy
* Seasonally-inspired Omelets and Quiches
* Classic Eggs Benedict
* Huevos Rancheros
Menotomy Grill also pours its secret family recipe Bloody Mary, along with hefty 20-ounce draught beers from its list of 40 varieties, including Battle Road 1776 Tavern Ale Slumbrew Attic & Eaves Wormtown Be Hoppy IPA and Allagash White.
3) Tim Maslow of Ribelle & Strip T's and James Mark of North in Providence are teaming up once again to host a special New Year's Eve celebration in Washington Square, This year, join them for a French-inspired nine-course dinner prepared by the two Momofuku alums. Beverage pairings featuring fine & rare wines also available. Only 100 tickets will be offered for this dinner.
THE MENU (subject to change)
first
Canapes
second
Crudo
third
Caviar
fourth
Vegetable
fifth
Biqsue
sixth
Foie Gras
seventh
Lamb
eighth
Cheese
ninth
Dessert
take home
A special treat from Ribelle & North
Tickets are $175/person, $250/person with pairings (excludes tax & gratuity).
Tickets can be purchased only online — https://nyeribellenorth.eventbrite.com.
The fine print:
If you have friends with the same reservation time as you, give them a call, and they'll make sure you're seated together.
All beverages will be available ala carte and charged separately (unless a ticket is purchased for beverage pairing).
Due to the nature of this dinner, they are unable to accommodate fish, shellfish, and gluten allergies.
Please call Ribelle at 617-232-2322 for questions.
4) On Wednesday, December 31, from 10pm-1:30am, Legal Harborside will celebrate New Year’s Eve under the stars at Liberty Wharf this year. Hosted atop the roof in a glass-enclosed space, it is the closest one comes to being in a snow globe. At this celebration bidding adieu to 2014 and welcoming 2015, revelers will delight in the picturesque winter scene – complete with Legal Harborside’s cozy, copper-clad fireplace – and will eat, drink and be merry with a bird’s eye view of First Night’s midnight fireworks overlooking Boston Harbor.
In addition to being supplied with festive noisemakers and hats, tickets to this sky-high soiree include a live deejay and a midnight toast with Moët & Chandon "Imperial" Brut NV bubbly. Legal Harborside will also offer table reservations to this year-end celebration.
COST: General admission: $75 per person Reserved couch/table: $550 per group (up to six people)
Tickets and tables may be reserved online. Tickets purchased are non-refundable and have no cash value. Limited tickets and table reservations are available. Access to the event will only be granted to guests with a ticket receipt and 21+ ID. Guests may order select a la carte items from Legal Harborside’s rooftop menu up until 12am.
5) Pastoral owners George Lewis and Todd Winer invite guests to Pastoral for an afternoon of helping those in need during the holidays. Pastoral invites guests to celebrate the holidays while helping a worthy cause this Sunday, December 14, from 4pm until 6pm. With the donation of a new or slightly worn children’s coat, guests will be offered complimentary food and beverages. Coats will be donated to Cradles to Crayons in time for the holidays. Tickets to the Pastoral For Parkas holiday party are available by logging onto www.eventbrite.com “Pastoral for Parkas”.
For more information and reservations, please call (617) 345-0005 or visit www.eventbrite.com “Pastoral for Parkas”
Wednesday, December 10, 2014
2014: Top Ten Wines Over $50
What were some of my favorite wines of the past year?
Welcome to my third, and last, Top Wines List. I have already posted my Top Ten Wines Under $15 and Top Ten Wines Over $15. It is now time for my Top Wines Over $50. Though I've tasted more than ten wines over $50 during the past year, I've only chosen to list those which were especially fascinating.
Like the prior lists, this list includes wines that not only did I enjoy, but which I also found to be particularly compelling for various reasons. They might be especially delicious, something more unique or just excellent values for the price. They all stand out, for some particular reason, above the other wines at this price point that I have tasted this past year.
This is a purely subjective list, based on my own preferences, and makes no claims about being the "best" wines out there. It is primarily the wines which spoke to me the loudest, even when they were subtle wines. These are all wines that I highly recommend and which I believe many other wine lovers will also enjoy.
The wines are not listed in any particular order and each choice is linked to my more detailed prior review. All of these value wines are worth your consideration but please also note that the prices are approximations and the actual price may vary in your area. In addition, some of the wines might not be available in your local area, though you might be able to order them from the winery or an online store, dependent on your state's shipping laws.
1) 2005 Domaine Potinet-Ampeau Volnay 1er Cru 'Clo des Chenes' ($85)
This wine was a marvel from my first sniff of its aromas, a killer melange of earth and fruit, promising the best of French Burgundy. It too was elegant and ethereal, with a blend of complex flavors that seduced my palate. Each sip seemed to bring something different and the flavors seemed to last forever. A most impressive wine which is going to please any Burgundy lover. Brought in by Elden Selection, they have a great Burgundy portfolio and it is well worth checking out their other wines too.
2) 2001 Chateau Musar Blanc ($70)
This Lebanese white wine, made from two indigenous grapes, Obaideh and Merwah, is fermented in French oak barriques for 9 months. It's then bottled but not released until 7 years after harvest. It is a slightly oxidized style, and I loved it. More full bodied, it possessed a complex melange of flavors which intrigued my palate. Notes of honey and apricot, smoke and caramel, citrus and pear. Each sip seemed to bring new flavors to mind, and it evolved over the course of the dinner, getting more intriguing as the night went on. Highly recommended.
3) 2012 Sadie Family Die Ouwingerdreeks Soldaat ($54.99)
A South African wine from the Swartland region, this wine is made from 100% Grenache Noir, reminding me of some Rhône wines. The bold fruit flavors, from cherry to strawberry, were enhanced by spicy & earthy notes. It seemed both fresh and mature, an interesting dichotomy which made this a fascinating and delicious wine. Restrained tannins, a lengthy finish, and nice acidity make this another wine I highly recommend.
4) 2011 Artesana Tannat-Zinfandel-Merlot ($50+)
Though not yet available in the U.S., I eagerly await its entry. This Uruguayan wine, a blend of 55% Tannat, 25% Zinfandel and 20% Merlot, spent 24 months in French oak and only 130 cases were produced. The harmonious complexity of this wine was superb, and the restrained tannins made this wine even more compelling. There was so much going on in this wine, and all of it was pleasing and delicious.
5) 2011 Marichal Grand Reserve Tannat "A" ($55-$60)
This wine is only made in good vintages, and it spends about 18 months in oak and sees no fining or filtering. This was an alluring and seductive wine, with intriguing complexity, intense flavors, silky tannins, and a lengthy and satisfying finish. This wine shows the high-end potential of Tannat, how strong tannins can be made manageable, and the depth of flavors that can be drawn forth from this grape. Uruguay is a country to keep on your radar.
6) Quinta do Portal 20 Year Old Tawny ($57)
From one of the few Port houses owned by a Portuguese family, this aged Port presents with a light amber color and it is pure bliss. An alluring and complex aroma marries to an intriguing melange of flavors. It is silky smooth with a lengthy and very satisfying finish. It's difficult to describe this Port in words as it is something that needs to be experienced. Highly recommended.
7) 2011 Quinta do Vallado Reserve:($64.99)
This wine is a unique mix of a 70% field blend of old vines (about 80+ years old), 27% Touriga Nacional and 3% Sousão. The field blend consists of over twenty different grapes, including & Tinta Roriz, Tinta Amarela, and Touriga Franca. With a medium red color, this wine had an alluring nose, one which makes you sit and smell the wine for a time before tasting it. Once you sample it, you'll discover a complex and enticing melange of flavors, including ripe plum, black cherry, fig, dark spices, mineral notes and hints of earthiness. Silky tannins, a long and pleasing finish, and excellent structure & balance. It is a hedonistic, delicious wine which will make you crave another glass. It possesses a certain exotic element which I equate with Portuguese wines, a terroir element which appeals to me.
8) 1998 Bodegas Riojanas Monte Real Gran Reserva Rioja ($50+)
This wine shows the great potential of aged Rioja. It is a blend of 80% Tempranillo, 15% Mazuelo, and 5% Graciano and is aged for 24-30 months in American oak and then aged in the bottle for at least 36 months. With a medium-red color, it has an alluring nose of cherry, plum and spice notes, and you'll probably sit with your glass for a time just enjoying the aromas. On the palate, you'll find a complex melange of intriguing flavors, a harmonious blend of fruit, spice and herbs. Elegant and silky, the wine caresses your palate, thrilling your senses. The tannins are well integrated, the wine is well balanced, and the finish lingers on and on. Though it will pair well with many dishes, it will also please on its own.
9) 2010 Vina Koyle Auma ($99.99)
This is only the second vintage of this Chilean wine, a blend of 37% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Carmenere, 18% Malbec, 13% Syrah, and 7% Petite Verdot. The wine is an inky dark color with an enticing nose of black fruits with eucalyptus notes. On the palate, it is seductive and alluring, a silky liquid which tantalizes the mind with its complex and harmonious blend of flavors. It is a wine where description becomes inadequate, where the best understanding comes from experiencing it. It may remind you of a high-end Bordeaux, though even if not, you are going to be impressed with its quality and complexity.
10) 2012 Bodegas Salentein Numina Gran Corte ($41) is a blend of 62% Malbec, 21% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc, and 5% Petit Verdot. I found this to be a fascinating wine from Argentina, possessed of a complex nose and taste, with great depth of flavor and a very satisfying, lengthy finish. Ripe plum, black cherry, hints of blueberry, lots of spicy notes, and hints of leather, cocoa and herbs. This is a wine to slowly savor, appreciating every complex and intriguing sip.
No single country or wine region dominated this list, and eight countries made the cut. Portugal and Uruguay both have two spots on the list, while the other spots were claimed by France, Lebanon, South Africa, Spain, Chile and Argentina. Red wines dominated though, taking 8 spots, with 1 spot for a White wine and 1 for a Fortified wine.
Not all expensive wines are worth their high price but these ten are wines well worth the splurge. These are the type of wines that words often cannot do justice. These are wines to experience and savor, not to dissect and analyze. These wines should be shared with others, with family and friends, to share the experience. With the holidays near, why not splurge and buy one of these wines.
If you have some of your own recommendations for unique and compelling wines over $50, please add them to the comments.
Welcome to my third, and last, Top Wines List. I have already posted my Top Ten Wines Under $15 and Top Ten Wines Over $15. It is now time for my Top Wines Over $50. Though I've tasted more than ten wines over $50 during the past year, I've only chosen to list those which were especially fascinating.
Like the prior lists, this list includes wines that not only did I enjoy, but which I also found to be particularly compelling for various reasons. They might be especially delicious, something more unique or just excellent values for the price. They all stand out, for some particular reason, above the other wines at this price point that I have tasted this past year.
This is a purely subjective list, based on my own preferences, and makes no claims about being the "best" wines out there. It is primarily the wines which spoke to me the loudest, even when they were subtle wines. These are all wines that I highly recommend and which I believe many other wine lovers will also enjoy.
The wines are not listed in any particular order and each choice is linked to my more detailed prior review. All of these value wines are worth your consideration but please also note that the prices are approximations and the actual price may vary in your area. In addition, some of the wines might not be available in your local area, though you might be able to order them from the winery or an online store, dependent on your state's shipping laws.
1) 2005 Domaine Potinet-Ampeau Volnay 1er Cru 'Clo des Chenes' ($85)
This wine was a marvel from my first sniff of its aromas, a killer melange of earth and fruit, promising the best of French Burgundy. It too was elegant and ethereal, with a blend of complex flavors that seduced my palate. Each sip seemed to bring something different and the flavors seemed to last forever. A most impressive wine which is going to please any Burgundy lover. Brought in by Elden Selection, they have a great Burgundy portfolio and it is well worth checking out their other wines too.
2) 2001 Chateau Musar Blanc ($70)
This Lebanese white wine, made from two indigenous grapes, Obaideh and Merwah, is fermented in French oak barriques for 9 months. It's then bottled but not released until 7 years after harvest. It is a slightly oxidized style, and I loved it. More full bodied, it possessed a complex melange of flavors which intrigued my palate. Notes of honey and apricot, smoke and caramel, citrus and pear. Each sip seemed to bring new flavors to mind, and it evolved over the course of the dinner, getting more intriguing as the night went on. Highly recommended.
3) 2012 Sadie Family Die Ouwingerdreeks Soldaat ($54.99)
A South African wine from the Swartland region, this wine is made from 100% Grenache Noir, reminding me of some Rhône wines. The bold fruit flavors, from cherry to strawberry, were enhanced by spicy & earthy notes. It seemed both fresh and mature, an interesting dichotomy which made this a fascinating and delicious wine. Restrained tannins, a lengthy finish, and nice acidity make this another wine I highly recommend.
4) 2011 Artesana Tannat-Zinfandel-Merlot ($50+)
Though not yet available in the U.S., I eagerly await its entry. This Uruguayan wine, a blend of 55% Tannat, 25% Zinfandel and 20% Merlot, spent 24 months in French oak and only 130 cases were produced. The harmonious complexity of this wine was superb, and the restrained tannins made this wine even more compelling. There was so much going on in this wine, and all of it was pleasing and delicious.
5) 2011 Marichal Grand Reserve Tannat "A" ($55-$60)
This wine is only made in good vintages, and it spends about 18 months in oak and sees no fining or filtering. This was an alluring and seductive wine, with intriguing complexity, intense flavors, silky tannins, and a lengthy and satisfying finish. This wine shows the high-end potential of Tannat, how strong tannins can be made manageable, and the depth of flavors that can be drawn forth from this grape. Uruguay is a country to keep on your radar.
6) Quinta do Portal 20 Year Old Tawny ($57)
From one of the few Port houses owned by a Portuguese family, this aged Port presents with a light amber color and it is pure bliss. An alluring and complex aroma marries to an intriguing melange of flavors. It is silky smooth with a lengthy and very satisfying finish. It's difficult to describe this Port in words as it is something that needs to be experienced. Highly recommended.
7) 2011 Quinta do Vallado Reserve:($64.99)
This wine is a unique mix of a 70% field blend of old vines (about 80+ years old), 27% Touriga Nacional and 3% Sousão. The field blend consists of over twenty different grapes, including & Tinta Roriz, Tinta Amarela, and Touriga Franca. With a medium red color, this wine had an alluring nose, one which makes you sit and smell the wine for a time before tasting it. Once you sample it, you'll discover a complex and enticing melange of flavors, including ripe plum, black cherry, fig, dark spices, mineral notes and hints of earthiness. Silky tannins, a long and pleasing finish, and excellent structure & balance. It is a hedonistic, delicious wine which will make you crave another glass. It possesses a certain exotic element which I equate with Portuguese wines, a terroir element which appeals to me.
8) 1998 Bodegas Riojanas Monte Real Gran Reserva Rioja ($50+)
This wine shows the great potential of aged Rioja. It is a blend of 80% Tempranillo, 15% Mazuelo, and 5% Graciano and is aged for 24-30 months in American oak and then aged in the bottle for at least 36 months. With a medium-red color, it has an alluring nose of cherry, plum and spice notes, and you'll probably sit with your glass for a time just enjoying the aromas. On the palate, you'll find a complex melange of intriguing flavors, a harmonious blend of fruit, spice and herbs. Elegant and silky, the wine caresses your palate, thrilling your senses. The tannins are well integrated, the wine is well balanced, and the finish lingers on and on. Though it will pair well with many dishes, it will also please on its own.
9) 2010 Vina Koyle Auma ($99.99)
This is only the second vintage of this Chilean wine, a blend of 37% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Carmenere, 18% Malbec, 13% Syrah, and 7% Petite Verdot. The wine is an inky dark color with an enticing nose of black fruits with eucalyptus notes. On the palate, it is seductive and alluring, a silky liquid which tantalizes the mind with its complex and harmonious blend of flavors. It is a wine where description becomes inadequate, where the best understanding comes from experiencing it. It may remind you of a high-end Bordeaux, though even if not, you are going to be impressed with its quality and complexity.
10) 2012 Bodegas Salentein Numina Gran Corte ($41) is a blend of 62% Malbec, 21% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc, and 5% Petit Verdot. I found this to be a fascinating wine from Argentina, possessed of a complex nose and taste, with great depth of flavor and a very satisfying, lengthy finish. Ripe plum, black cherry, hints of blueberry, lots of spicy notes, and hints of leather, cocoa and herbs. This is a wine to slowly savor, appreciating every complex and intriguing sip.
No single country or wine region dominated this list, and eight countries made the cut. Portugal and Uruguay both have two spots on the list, while the other spots were claimed by France, Lebanon, South Africa, Spain, Chile and Argentina. Red wines dominated though, taking 8 spots, with 1 spot for a White wine and 1 for a Fortified wine.
Not all expensive wines are worth their high price but these ten are wines well worth the splurge. These are the type of wines that words often cannot do justice. These are wines to experience and savor, not to dissect and analyze. These wines should be shared with others, with family and friends, to share the experience. With the holidays near, why not splurge and buy one of these wines.
If you have some of your own recommendations for unique and compelling wines over $50, please add them to the comments.
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