Rant: Restaurants, Hygiene & First Impressions

When compiling my first impressions of a new restaurant, I'm forgiving of many service and food issues as I understand it can take a little time for a new place to work its initial kinks out. I'll usually return at a later date to see how the restaurant has evolved, to note what changes might have been instituted. However, there are some serious issues that may arise on my first visit to a restaurant which might cause me never to return. It arises infrequently but occurred on one of my latest forays to a new local restaurant.

While I was out running some errands, I was considering where to grab lunch. I noted a Facebook post that a new wood-fired pizzeria was opening that day and I was very close to its location. I decided to give it a try, sitting at the counter in front of the open kitchen and wood-fired oven. I had some issues with the service and food, but nothing I couldn't attribute to the fact that it was only their first day open. They were issues I could overlook for the moment and I normally would have returned after some time to dine there again.

However, I won't dine there again. I saw something which disturbed me, which should not have occurred. Something I just cannot ignore.

The pizza peel, the tool which they use to remove the finished pizza from the oven, was standing up against a wall. At one point, while I was eating my pizza, the peel fell over onto the floor. The chef/owner picked up the peel and put it back against the wall. He then used it to remove multiple pizzas from the oven. This is where the problem arose.

The chef/owner did not clean or even just wipe off the peel after it had fallen to the floor. He did not replace it with another peel. Absolutely wrong. There is no reason why he couldn't have taken a minute to clean the peel. And this was in my full view as I was sitting at the counter. He didn't even try to hide the fact he failed to clean the peel.

If some inexperienced kitchen employee had done this, I might have been a bit forgiving but this was the chef/owner, the person who knows better. I find it inexcusable for the chef/owner to have done this in front of me. And it raises the question in my mind of what hygiene problems existed that I didn't witness or couldn't see. This was a negative first impression and I won't give them the chance at a second impression.

Champlain Orchards Cidery: Heirloom Semi-Dry

It seems appropriate that the first drink I review in 2016 is from Vermont. This Spring, I'll be spending a weekend exploring the wines, ciders, beers, Sake and spirits of Vermont, gaining a better understand of the current status of their drinks industry. Previously, I've tasted numerous wines, ciders and spirits from Vermont, and you can search my blog for my prior reviews. Yet like every other state, Vermont constantly evolves, with new wineries, distilleries and breweries opening, as well as existing ones improving and expanding. There is even a new Sake brewery in Vermont, the Mercy Brewing Company.

The Champlain Orchards Cidery extends back to 1998, when Bill Suhr bought 60 acres of orchard in Shoreham., Over the years, the estate has grown to over 220 acres of fruit trees, including over 70 varieties of apples,  plums, peaches, nectarines, European and Asian Pears, raspberries, cherries, and blueberries. Sustainability is very important and 100% of their fruit crop is Eco Apple certified through Red Tomato. It is an ongoing process, where they continue to make their orchards as environmentally conscientious as possible.

With their apples, they create a variety of products including Cider Donuts, Apple Pie, Apple Sauce, Apple Butter, Cider Syrup, Sweet Cider, Ice Cider and Hard Cider. As for Hard Ciders, they produce about six different varieties, including Original Vermont Hard Cider, Semi-Dry Hard Cider, Apple Cranberry Hard Cider, Honeycrisp Hard Cider, McIntosh & Maple Hard Cider, and Ginger & Spice Hard Cider. The Beacon Hill Wine & Gourmet currently sells the Semi-Dry and Apple Cranberry Hard Ciders and that is where I purchased the Semi-Dry.

The Semi-Dry ($13.70/750ml) is made from a blend of 31 apple varieties, including sweet, sharp and bitter types such as Wickson, Foxwhelp and Cox's Orange Pippin. It also has an alcohol content of 5.8%. It has an aroma of fresh apples with some mild floral notes, a pleasant smell that will entice you to pour yourself a glass. When you taste it, you'll find a mild effervescence, not the heavy carbonation of a soda. It presents mainly as crisp and dry with only a hint of sweetness, especially on the finish. There is a strong taste of apple with tart accents and almost a touch of orange. It is  refreshing rather than cloying like some commercial hard ciders, and I believe it would pair well with food too, from roast chicken to pork.

With their eco-conscious philosophy and this tasty cider, I'm hoping that on my Spring trip to Vermont, I get the opportunity to learn more about this cidery and taste more of their products (including their cider donuts).

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I am back again with a new edition of Thursday Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting, upcoming food & drink events.
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1) Blue on Highland, located in Needham, is ringing in the New Year with a special Scotch & Steak Dinner on Wednesday, January 13 at 7:00PM. Scotch expert Nick Taylor’s passion and expertise is widely known in the industry and he will be leading the group through the multi-course prix fixe menu with paired scotches and detailed explanations of each.

Whether you are new to the world of Scotch, or a seasoned pro, this dinner is perfect for all. For guests that enjoy the selections of the evening, purchase orders will be available to own bottles of their own.

Nick will be joined by Scott Drago, General Manager of Blue on Highland and Executive Chef Peter Tartsinis as the three of them guide diners through the following multi-course prix fixe menu

MENU:
~Welcome dram of Balvenie 12yr DoubleWood~
Welcome Course:
Charcuterie Board (Vermont Aged Cheddar, Bleu Cheese, Baked Brie, Soppressata, Prosciutto, Homemade Jerky)
Scotch Pairing: Laphroaig 15yr
Appetizer Course:
Mushroom Leek and Goat Cheese Flatbread (Wild Mushrooms, Roasted Leek, Goat Cheese)
Scotch Pairing: Balblair vintage 1990 25yr old
Entrée Course:
14oz Ribeye (Mashed Red-Skinned Potatoes, Garlicky Broccoli, blue cheese, demi-glace)
Scotch Pairing: Old Pulteney 17yr
Dessert Course:
Chocolate Bread Pudding (Butterscotch Chips, Richardson’s Dairy salted Caramel Ice Cream)
Scotch Pairing: Glendronach 15yr Revival

PRICE: $85.00 per person (tax & gratuity not included)
Reservations required. so please call 781-444-7001.

2) In honor of National Soup Month, Legal Sea Foods will be declaring January 15 as “Chowda Day.” Available at all Legal Sea Foods’ brands and locations for the duration of the day, $1 cups of their signature New England Clam Chowder will be served up with the purchase of an entrée. Legal Sea Foods’ iconic clam chowder recipe has been dished out at every Presidential Inauguration since 1981. This special offer also is available at Legal C Bar, Legal Crossing, Legal Harborside, Legal on the Mystic, Legal Oysteria and Legal Test Kitchen.

COST: $1 per cup of clam chowder with purchase of an entrée

3) The 11th Annual CityFeast in Boston’s North End will be held on Sunday, January 31, at 6pm. The event is a fun-filled evening hosted by nine restaurants in Boston: Antico Forno, Aria Trattoria, Bricco, Lucca, Lucia, Strega, Taranta, Terramia Ristorante, and Tresca. Tickets include a five-course dinner with wine pairings at one of the participating restaurants; proceeds will benefit Joslin Diabetes Center’s High Hopes Fund, which supports the Center’s greatest needs in research, education and clinical care.

Founded in 2005 by Carla Agrippino Gomes, owner of Antico Forno and Terramia, CityFeast has raised nearly $280,000 for Joslin Diabetes Center’s High Hopes Fund. Carla started this fundraiser in the North End of Boston with her restaurants and several others as a way to support Joslin Diabetes Center and the life-saving care her son receives since being diagnosed with type 1 diabetes 24 years ago. Joslin Diabetes Center is the world’s preeminent diabetes research and care organization, located right here in Boston.

Tickets are priced at $150 each, of which $100 is tax deductible. Due to high demand, reservations are limited, and will be distributed on a first-come, first-serve basis.

For more information on CityFeast or to purchase tickets visit: giving.joslin.org/cityfeast

4) Starting this month, BISq Chef Dan Bazzinotti and the team invite guests to join them on Friday nights to enjoy a rotating Suckling Pig special. BISq will be adding a shareable suckling pig special dish to their menu every Friday night. Each week, the suckling pig will be prepared in a different style and will cost $16.

WHEN: Every Friday night from 5:30pm to 12am
For more information, please visit www.bisqcambridge.com or call (617) 714-3693.

5) Beginning January 7 and extending to February 10, Legal Sea Foods will be celebrating crustaceans with the “Shrimp Classic” feature menu available at Legal Sea Foods, Legal C Bar, Legal on the Mystic and Legal Harborside locations.

Seafood-lovers will indulge in a series of special starters, light entrees and entrees:

STARTERS
Coconut Shrimp ($13.95) orange ginger marmalade
Mediterranean Grilled Shrimp ($11.95) roasted eggplant chutney, red pepper pesto with walnuts & pomegranate
LIGHT ENTREES
Chipotle Shrimp Taco ($15.95) salsa verde, queso fresco, avocado
Shrimp BLT ($15.95) chorizo aioli, bacon, arugula, tomato, griddled flatbread
Buffalo Shrimp & Blue Cheese Salad ($16.95) frisee, romaine, blue cheese vinaigrette, radish, celery
ENTREES
Shrimp Pad Thai ($21.95; pictured below) rice noodles, stir-fried vegetables, egg, bean sprouts, peanuts, Thai basil
Baked Stuffed Shrimp Casserole ($27.95) jumbo shrimp, buttery crabmeat stuffing
Shrimp Fra Diavolo ($23.95) spicy Calabrian pepper, tomato sauce
Tempura Kung Pao Shrimp & Vegetables ($21.95) snap peas, cauliflower, red peppers, pineapple, jasmine rice

Advice For Attending The Boston Wine Expo

You're confronted with the opportunity to taste nearly 2000 different wines. There's no way you can taste all of them, or even a large percentage, so what should you do? What is the best strategy to handle this dilemma? What other advice should you know about attending such a huge event?

Next month, the Boston Wine Expo will be celebrating its 25th Anniversary during President’s Day weekend, February 13 & 14, at the Seaport Hotel & World Trade Center. Presented by the Boston Guild of Oenophilists, the Expo will be even larger this year with a number of special features to celebrate this milestone. Thousands of local wine lovers will attend this event and they would benefit from advice and suggestions for getting the most out of this event.

At the Expo, there will be the usual Grand Tasting, which will feature over 200 producers and about 1800 wines and it is easy to feel overwhelmed. People attend these events for a number of different reasons. Though many don't like to discuss it, there is always a contingent that goes just to get drunk. I don't advise anyone to do this. Instead, have fun, taste wine, but don't over do it. You will want to remember what you experienced. Use this opportunity to learn about wine, to find new favorites, and to socialize with other wine lovers.

What is my best advice for attending these Grand Tastings? Like many endeavors, the key is in your preparation. Don't just show up and drink, especially if you want to learn anything.

1) To make the most of your time at the Expo, you need to make a plan of which wine regions and/or specific wineries tables you want to visit and taste. You cannot taste every wine at the Expo, or probably even 5% of the wines. So you need to be very selective as to what you taste. If you don't go with a plan, you may waste time wandering around the hall, and might even miss a winery that you really wanted to check out. Check this site for a list of the participating exhibitors and spend some time deciding on where you want to go.

2) Don't drink wines you already know and like. You can do that anytime and anywhere else. Instead, take this opportunity to expand your palate and try different wines, hoping to find new wines to enjoy. Never had Portuguese wines? Then make an effort to venture to their tables and try some of their wines, from Vinho Verde to Altejano reds. With all the diversity of wines available, it makes little sense to spend your time drinking the same wines you drink at home all the time. Be willing to experiment and taste something different. Make the Expo an opportunity to explore the wide world of wine.

3) To avoid the largest crowd, go on Sunday rather than Saturday. Saturdays in the Grand Tastings are more crowded with a huge horde of attendees. Sunday though does not attract as large a horde of wine lovers. It will still be crowded, but is more manageable.

4) Dress comfortably, noting that there is always the potential you might spill wine on your clothes. So leave those white shirts, blouses, pants,etc. home. It is a casual event so there is no need to get all dressed use, though you are welcome to do so if you desire. Just beware of the possibility of wine spills. It is very important to wear comfortable shoes as you will be on your feet for several hours, walking around the tasting hall.

5) Don't wear perfume or cologne as they will interfere with your ability to smell the wine, and will also interfere with the ability of other people to do the same. So show consideration for your fellow attendees and please don't wear it.

6) Eat a hearty breakfast or lunch before going to the Expo. If you are going to be tasting all that wine, you want to have a full stomach to help nullify some of that alcohol. If you go on an empty stomach, the alcohol will hit you harder and quicker, and you won't last long. There will be some food available at these events, but it is much better to start off with a fully belly before you even get there.

7) Make sure all your electronics, such as your camera and smartphone, are fully charged. It's a pain when your battery dies half way through the Expo and you are unable to take any more photos. You might also be posting to social media while at the Expo so you want sufficient power in your smart phone to keep you going for the while event.

8) How will you get to the Expo? Remember that you will be tasting lots of wines so you may not be able to drive home safely. No one should ever drink and drive! So, if you can, take public transportation, book a nearby hotel room, or have a designated driver. Please don't drink and drive. That is the most important advice in this entire post. DON'T DRINK & DRIVE!!

9) Arrive at the Expo early as you'll beat the the long line to get into the Expo. You'll be able to enter the Grand Tasting as soon as it opens and can beat the crowds to your first tasting table. You will also be able to find a better parking spot if you drive to the Expo.

10) If you drive, leave your coat in your car. The coat check room at the Expo is always crowded and you don't want to waste time waiting in line when you could be wine tasting. The parking lots are close enough so you would only be outside for a few minutes without a coat. A New Englander should be able to handle that easily.

11) When you are tasting wines, please spit. Every sip you swallow adds to your alcohol level and if you do not spit, you will soon find yourself intoxicated. Even small sips can add up quickly. Once you are intoxicated, all of the wines will start tasting good to you and you probably won't learn anything. Spitting is the only way to navigate through a large number of wines, trying to discern which new wines appeal to you. So spit, spit, spit!

12) While you are tasting wines, take frequent breaks to drink water and eat snacks to help cleanse your palate. There are numerous food vendors at these events, many offering free samples, so there is no excuse why you can't find something to nibble upon. Water is also necessary to stay hydrated and the Expo usually has plenty of free water available. All of this will help keep your palate sharp and also try to limit the effect of all that alcohol.

13) Pair some foods with wines while you are there. This will help you better appreciate and understand some of the wines you taste.  Try some McCrea's Candies Caramels and Bubbly. Try some Port and Blue Cheese. There are many possibilities and it is fun to try different wines with different foods.

14) If you find a new wine you enjoy, how will you remember it? You can take notes, writing down the name of the wine, or use your smart phone to take a picture of the wine bottle label. Nothing is worse than tasting a great wine but later forgetting its name. You will taste plenty of wines at the Expo so the only way to ensure you remember which ones you enjoyed are to take notes or pictures. Taking a photo of the label is easy and you'll be very glad later that you have a record of your favorite wines.

15) If you really enjoy a wine, ask questions about whether it is available or not. Unfortunately, not all of the wines poured at these events are yet available in Massachusetts. If it is available, they should be able to tell you the name of the distributor. Write that info down as it will help you locate the wine later. You can go to your local wine store with that info and they should be able to get the wine for you.

16) At the Expo, consider attending one of the 40 different Wine Seminars as they can be an excellent wine for more directed wine education, in a more intimate setting. You can learn about Champagne and Chianti Classico, Rioja and Burgundy. A few Seminars which sound especially appealing to me include: New England Cider; Sherry for Billionaires and Historians (a chance to taste some very old Sherries); and Decadent & Delicious: Sweet Wines of the World. Buy tickets early though as seating is limited and seminars can sell out.

17) Debuting this year will be a special W?NE Bar,  where you can stop and ask members of the Boston Sommelier Society your wine-related questions as well as get a retrospective of the industry’s past 25 years and what to expect in the next 25 years. This will be an opportunity to ask any of your wine-related questions that might arise at the Expo.

18) Check out one of the free Chef Demos, where you can watch chefs, many local, demonstrate recipes and you often get to sample what they prepare. This can be a fun break from all of your wine tasting and you can see Chefs including Ming Tsai,  Barbara Lynch, Chris Coombs, Louis DiBicarri, and Rachel Klein.

19) For more advanced wine lovers, get a ticket to the Vintners’ Reserve Lounge, a special tasting room for higher end wines, special vintages, as well as unique small production wines. There will be food samples there from a number of local restaurants and this year, you will also be able to indulge your sweet tooth at the 25th anniversary Dessert Bar featuring treats designed to pair with the special wines.

20) Make sure you have fun!

Rant: No Predictions, Only Desires

The New Year, 2016, has arrived!

Predictions for the New Year are basically useless. At the end of the year, the vast majority of predictions will have failed to come to fruition and even those that do are probably due more to luck than any actual ability to predict the future. You would have just as much success by reading tea leaves or the entrails of goats. I know that if I devised my own predictions, they too would probably fail.

We can all hope that 2016 will usher in positive changes to the local food & drink industry. Instead of offering any predictions, I'm going to provide a list of my desires, those trends, issues and items which I would love to see step forward and take precedence in 2016, though I'm not predicting they will actually come to fruition. However, I think we would all benefit if these desires were fulfilled.

And we have the ability to make these desires come true. They pose valuable opportunities for entrepreneurs and others to step up and make their mark. They are matters we can demand and promote, matters we can hound restaurant owners, legislators and others to pursue. We can make our future become a reality.

1) More Bread Pudding  
Bread pudding is relatively easy to make and can be inexpensive as it can be made with day old bread. Plus, it is a diverse dish that can be made in a wide variety of flavors, with different sauces, and accompaniments. I've had some superb bread puddings at local restaurants, and would like to see more restaurants offering it on their dessert menus. However, I also think there is a great opportunity for an enterprising baker to open a Bread Pudding Bakery. They exist in other parts of the country so why not in the Boston area? Skip opening another damn cupcake bakery, think outside the box, and opt for a bread pudding bakery instead. I've been pushing for this for a couple years and it still hasn't caught on.

2) More Filipino Restaurants & Dishes
This is another matter I've been ranting about for several years. There is a dearth of Filipino cuisine both locally as well throughout the U.S., though a few regions seem to be opening several new Filipino restaurants. With apparently only a single Filipino restaurant in the Boston area, there is a huge opportunity here for more Filipino spots. Or if even not an entire restaurant, maybe we could see more Filipino inspired dishes on other menus. Chef Patrick Enage, who was born in the Philippines, had been running a pop-up Southeast Asian menu, which included some Filipino dishes, at Wink & Nod. In the near future, he will open Akinto, his own restaurant with a similar menu. This is a good start but we need even more Filipino dishes and restaurants in the Boston area.

3) More Wine Access 
Massachusetts has slowly been releasing the reins on wine control so there is much of which to be hopeful. A law was finally passed permitting wineries to ship to consumers in Massachusetts but we still need a law allowing online and out of state, brick & mortar retailers to ship to Massachusetts consumers. Let's see a push for this expansion in the wine shipping law. A law was passed allowing more liquor licenses in Boston but we still need a law permitting BYOB. There are currently efforts to enact a BYOB law though it seems it has far to go, especially in creating a structure that will benefit communities but not hurt existing restaurants. Let us hope that 2016 sees some new wine law passes.

4) More Local Seafood
Something is seriously wrong as the U.S. imports over 90% of their seafood. Where is the love for domestic seafood? There is plenty of sustainable and delicious domestic seafood available and more of it needs to be served at restaurants and eaten at homes. For example, why serve Asian shrimp, especially considering problems such as the Thai slavery scandal, when Gulf shrimp can be just as good? We should support local fishermen and our local economy by buying more local seafood. Local seafood is also more traceable, so you know where it has been counter to imported seafood which can have a much murkier origin. Price alone shouldn't be the reason to opt for imported seafood.

5) More Breakfast Pizza
A breakfast pizza, such as with potatoes, bacon, cheese and a fried egg, can be absolutely delicious, such as the one at Ciao! Pizza & Pasta. It isn't a difficult dish to create yet you won't find it available on many menus. Think of all the pizza joints you know and then consider which ones make a breakfast pizza. You might know one or two, at best. So why isn't it more popular and available? It is puzzling to me and it seems such a no-brainer. People love pizza so why wouldn't they also love a breakfast pizza? This too seems to be a missed opportunity for many so I hope more restaurants decide to add these to their menu.

6) More Sake at Non-Asian Restaurants
In the Boston area, Sake is largely confined to Asian restaurants and there is no reason why that should be the case. Sake pairs well with all sorts of cuisines, from Italian to French, Barbecue to Burgers. I've previously written about The Science of Sake & Food Pairings, explaining reasons why it pairs so well with varied cuisines. For Sake to become more popular and mainstream, we need more restaurants to carry and promote Sake. Tasting Counter is one of the courageous outliers, a non-Asian restaurant with ten Sakes on their menu. In southern Maine, plenty of non-Asian restaurants now carry the locally made Blue Current Sake. Boston restaurants needs to follow their example and add Sake to their menus.

7) Less Powdered Sugar
Stop using so much powdered sugar, covering pancakes and French toast, adding even more sweetness to sweet desserts. It doesn't make those dishes look more appealing to have a plain white powder on them. In fact, it acts to hide the natural look of the desserts, concealing their true nature. And adding it to sweet desserts is unnecessary as they are already sweet enough. It's overkill. Yet chef after chef still uses it and that needs to stop, especially its use on pancakes and French toast. Find other ways to make your food look better. Find a better way to make your desserts sweeter if that is what you really want to do..  

What food & drink trends would you like to see in 2016?