Suerte Extra Añejo Tequila: Traditional & Well Aged

When a spirit comes in a bottle with a glow-in-the-dark label, it is often dismissed as a marketing ploy, a way to boost the appeal of an inexpensive and possibly even low quality spirit. It is often seen as flash covering up for flaws in the substance. This is definitely not the case with the Suerte Extra Añejo Tequila, which has a glow-in-the-dark label but contain an exquisite high-end tequila.

Back in 2012, two Colorado-based entrepreneurs Laurence Spiewak and Lance Sokol co-founded Suerte Tequila (suerte meaning luck in Spanish). Their tequila is produced in a 15,000 square-foot distillery in the highlands of Atotoniclo, Jalisco. Spiewak and Lance hired Master Distiller Pedro Hernandez Barba of Tequila Symbol to create their tequila and he uses many traditional methods. For example, the pina is slow cooked in an horno, oven, for about 56 hours. A giant stone wheel is then used to crush the baked pinas, to extract the juice, which is an ancient method known as the tahona process. Currently, Suerte makes a tequila line including Blanco, Reposado, Añejo and Extra Añejo.

Their Extra Añejo ($110-$125) is a limited edition, single barrel tequila made from 100% Blue Weber Agave. It is double distilled, aged in charred American White Oak whiskey barrels for 5 years and has an alcohol content of 40%. By law, an Extra Añejo tequila must be aged for at least three years so this tequila matures for even longer than the minimum. Each bottle is labeled with a unique batch number and each barrel is used only once. The bottle was designed by Seattle-based tattoo artist Adam Jackson. I received a media sample, which was labeled as Batch XA5914 and it also indicated it was 1/13, though I haven't been able to determine what that refers to.

The tequila is a deep golden color with an enticing nose of roasted agave, vanilla, and citrus notes, On the palate, it presents a complex melange of flavors, including caramel, vanilla, orange, baking spices and roasted agave. It is smooth and delicious, with a mild bitterness on the finish, helping to balance the mild sweetness of the tequila. This is a tequila to slowly sip, savoring each intriguing taste, and it drinks so well you could sip it all night. Though you can enjoy this tequila on its own, it likely would pair well with certain foods too. Maybe a cheese plate or a a more gamey dish like roast lamb.

What is your favorite high-end tequila?

Rant: Civility & Seafood

Yesterday, as I walked through the crowded aisles at the Seafood Expo North America, I was struck by the lack of civility, the lack of concern for others, evidenced by a far too significant number of attendees. This is not unique to the Seafood Expo but rather endemic to most large-scale consumer and trade events. It happened at the recent Boston Wine Expo too. Why can't more people embrace politeness? Why can't they spend a few moments considering the needs of others?

Due to the crowds, it can be slow to maneuver through the aisles but that problem is compounded by the impolite actions of other attendees. First, people need to cease making sudden stops while they are walking down the aisles, especially just to check their telephone. They fail to realize there may be people walking behind them, who also have to come to a sudden stop. This can cause a traffic jam and is not necessary. They need to step to the side, to allow traffic to flow unimpeded.

Other people meet in small groups in the middle of the aisle, forcing people to redirect their path around them. And sometimes there are multiple groups stopped in the aisle, leaving only a single path  down the aisle, which isn't large enough for people to travel in both directions. Why can't they pull to the side as well, so they are not blocking a large portion of the aisle. There are plenty of spots, out of the way of walking traffic, where they could meet to chat.

Still others walk side by side, but at an incredible slow pace, blocking those who want to move faster. Like on a highway, the slower traffic should pull to the right side, allowing others to pass them. Some people have scheduled appointments and need to reach their destination as soon as possible. If they are forced to be blocked by very slow moving traffic, it could be a problem, which would be easily resolved by those slower individuals moving to the side to walk.

These are such simple notions so why don't people act more civil to each other? These people need to think about others as much as they think about themselves. Unfortunately, this is a problem of a far greater scope as well, more than just at these large scale food and wine events. Social media shows plenty of uncivil discourse, lots of name calling and ad hominem attacks. Every week I'm talking to someone who has had an unpleasant encounter with some rude person.

It costs absolutely nothing to be polite so step up your act. Adopt civility!

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I am back again with a new edition of Thursday Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting, upcoming food & drink events.
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1) Puritan & Co. Chef/Owner Will Gilson, Chef de Cuisine Alex Saenz, Wine Director Peter Nelson and the restaurant’s talented team welcome Ferdinando Zanusso of i Clivi wines as their guest of honor at a special winemaker dinner on Wednesday, March 16th, at 6:45pm.

"Ferdinando Zanusso founded i Clivi upon his return to Italy after thirty years and three different careers in Africa, including a stint in the United Nation’s World Food Program. He seeks the fullest expression of Friuli’s esteemed Colli Orientali del Friuli and Collio growing districts."

"What distinguishes i Clivi from their peers are devastatingly low yields, steep terrain, and old vines that range from sixty to eighty years of age. Their vineyard’s soils of calcareous clay, or ponca in local dialect, have been compared favorably to those of Burgundy’s Côte d’Or, and organic farming goes without saying for vineyards of this caliber. All work in the cellar follows similar principles and attention to detail. Hand-harvested bunches are pressed very gently producing only the purest must, a practice that sets the stage for the superb quality of the finished wines. Using only stainless steel vats for the white wines, the Zanusso’s produce wines of precision and definition without the interference of maceration or prolonged contact with the skin."

Along with complementary dishes prepared by Chef Will Gilson and conversation with Zanusso about his unique wine production, dinner guests will enjoy a variety of i Clivi wines including 2015 Brut Nature, 2013 Fruilano, 2012 Galea, 2009 Rosso, and 2000 “Brazan” Collio Goriziano.

Cost: Tickets are $95 plus tax and gratuity and can be reserved by calling 617-615-6195.
Please make Reservations by calling (617)-615-6195. Due to the limited number of seats, Puritan and Co. requires a $30 deposit per person. Puritan and Co. will call to confirm attendance on Saturday, March 12. If the reservation is cancelled after that time, and the space is not able to be reserved, a Puritan & Co. gift certificate will be issued in the amount of the deposit.

I met Ferdinando back in 2008 (I Clivi Wine Tasting) and met his son, Mario, in 2009 (I Clivi Wine Tasting: Mario Zanusso). Both were compelling individuals and the wines were delicious and intriguing. This winemaker dinner at Puritan should be an excellent event and I highly recommend you check it out!

2) Chef Peter Ungár of Tasting Counter, a killer restaurant in Somerville is going to soon be serving lunch! Beginning March 15, it will serve a three-course lunch every Tuesday, Wednesday, and Thursday. The $55 ticket price includes a beverage pairing, alcoholic or not, and tax and service. Ungár and his team will select dishes from the nightly tasting menu, including a pasta course, meat or fish plate, and dessert (with dietary restrictions accommodated). The menu will change daily and for reservations, please visit their website.

This is another matter worthy of my highest recommendation.

3) On April 6, Burlington-based NF Northeast (Neurofibromatosis Northeast) will celebrate the NF community and its supporters with their 17th annual Table for TEN charitable event in Boston. With honorary co-chairpersons Jenny Johnson, co-host of NESN’s “Dining Playbook” and Chris Himmel, executive vice president of Himmel Hospitality Group (Grill 23 & Bar; Harvest; Post 390), headlining this unrivaled evening, supporters will dine at some of the city’s top restaurants before closing out their night at a decadent dessert reception with live entertainment and an auction hosted at the newly renovated University of Massachusetts Club (One Beacon Street, Boston).

Groups of ten guests will arrive at their respective restaurant at 6pm on Wednesday, April 6, and will indulge in a specially created three-course menu paired with wine. This year, NF Northeast has joined forces with some of the best restaurants throughout the city to make their biggest splash yet. Participating restaurants in this year’s Table for TEN event include, but are not limited to: 75 Chestnut; Artu; Bergamot; Bistro du Midi; BOND at The Langham, Boston; Coppersmith; Davio's Northern Italian Steakhouse; Del Frisco's Double Eagle Steakhouse; Empire; Grill 23 & Bar; Harvest; Lucca (North End); Parker’s Restaurant; Post 390; Precinct Kitchen + Bar at the Loews Boston Hotel; Scampo at the Liberty Hotel; Serafina; Tavern Road; The Tip Tap Room; Top of the Hub; and, Union Oyster House.

At 8:pm, supporters are invited to continue the festivities at the official after-party at the University of Massachusetts Club. At this dessert reception, Montilio’s Baking Company will provide sweet treats and revelers will enjoy music entertainment by Ancient Mysteries featuring Kevin McKelvey and Ben Buttrick. Additionally, there are raffles, a silent auction and a live auction with honorary co-chairperson, Jenny Johnson, serving as guest auctioneer.

Neurofibromatosis (NF) is a prevalent genetic disorder of the nervous system that causes tumors to form on the nerves anywhere in or on the body at any time. Through NF Northeast’s efforts and the proceeds from their Table for TEN event, grants for groundbreaking research at Harvard Medical School Center for Neurofibromatosis and Allied Disorders, Massachusetts General Hospital and Boston Children’s Hospital are made possible. Over the years, incredible strides in research development have been made bringing us one step closer to a cure.

For more information on the Table for TEN event and to reserve online, please visit: www.nfincne.org. Tables for ten are available beginning at $1,000 and individual tickets at a table may be reserved for $100 per person. Sponsorships are also available by contacting NF Northeast’s Paul Laurent at 781.272.9936 or plaurent@nfincne.org.

4) On March 24, at 6:30pm, Legal Harborside will host a wine dinner with Cyril Chappellet, Chairman of the Board of Chappellet Winery, to host an exclusive four-plus-course wine dinner. Located in the heart of Napa Valley, the Chappellet family’s romance with Pritchard Hill’s vineyards started more than four decades ago when Donn and Molly Chappellet first glimpsed its magnificent vista of forests and wildflower-filled meadows. From these vineyards, the Chappellets have been crafting extraordinary, age-worthy wines since 1967. The rugged terroir has become legendary for producing wines with great intensity and depth, qualities that define the world's finest Cabernet Sauvignons.

The menu will be presented as follows:
HORS D’OEUVRES
Lobster Cappuccino
Poached Shrimp, Meyer Lemon Gelée
Prosciutto, Parmesan Foam, Melon
Chappellet Chardonnay, Napa Valley, 2013
FIRST COURSE
“California Roll” (king crab, yuzu, avocado mousse, crispy sushi rice)
Chappellet “Molly Chappellet” Signature Chenin Blanc, Napa Valley, 2013
SECOND COURSE
Oxtail Cannoli (porcini mushroom, pecorino romano, watercress)
Chappellet “Mountain Cuvee” Meritage Blend, Napa Valley, 2013
Chappellet “Donn Chappellet” Signature Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, 2013
THIRD COURSE
Dry-Aged Sirloin (miso braised chard, black garlic, smoked marrow teriyaki)
Chappellet “Pritchard Hill” Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, 2012
CHEESE COURSE
Vermont Creamery Bonne Bouche (fig & filo tart, burnt honey caramel)
Chappellet Cabernet Franc, Napa Valley, 2011

COST: $135 per person (excludes tax & gratuity)
Reservation required by calling 617-530-9470

5) On Wednesday, March 9, 2016, Craigie On Main will continue its nose-to-tail tradition with the restaurant’s seventh “Whole Hog Dinner.” This year, Chef Tony Maws joins forces with Chef-de-Cuisine Aaron Chambers to collaborate on the annual feast. In true Craigie fashion, the six-course dinner will feature all parts of the pig (head, feet, heart, and more), with an optional pork-friendly wine, beer, and cider pairing.

MENU:
Canapés
Assiette of House-Cured Pork (Pig Foot Terrine, candied kumquats)
Pork Tongue (dried figs)
Pork Belly Pastrami Reubens
First
Rabbit Porchetta (crispy pig’s ears, mixed chicories, three mustards)
Second
Slow-Cooked Hiram's (pork liver pate, guanciale, Asian pear, pickled pine nuts)
Third
Brodo of Suckling Pig and Six Alliums (lobster, parsley root, black truffle, boudin noir)
Fourth
Choice of:
Pork Heart Meatballs (Calabrian peppers, rye flour fusilli)
or
Wild Boar Ragout (buckwheat polenta, cabbage, mushrooms)
Fifth
Choice of:
Smoked Berkshire Pork Belly (bluefoot mushrooms, tangerines, pistachio butter, pig foot jus)
or
Pork Fat-Poached Local Hake (watercress, marrow beans, chorizo sauce)
Dessert
Coign Amann (bacon jam, butter pecan and bourbon ice cream)

COST: $108 six-course menu (exclusive of tax and gratuity) and $57 for wine/beer/cider pairings
Reservations are required, so please call the restaurant at 617-497-5511

6) The Painted Burro team invites guests to a join them in celebrating their fourth birthday with a Cinco de Marzo celebration. On Saturday, March 5, from 10am-1am, The Painted Burro is throwing a Cinco de Marzo party to celebrate turning four, or cuatro! The daylong fiesta will feature food and drink specials, musical entertainment, prizes, and much more.

The Cinco de Marzo festivities will include: a complimentary Iced Coffee Horchata offered from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. for Burro Brunch guests, raffles for $100 Alpine Co. gift certificate, complimentary margarita cupcakes at 3 p.m. for the first 100 guests in the bar & lounge, and a mariachi band from 3 p.m. to 4 p.m. in the bar & lounge. The celebration will continue into the night with a sparkling margarita special and throwback specials from years past.

For more information or reservations, please contact (617) 776-0005

The Manhattan Cocktail: Drink Up (Part 3)

"This is a drink with a history, a story, and a style; that's what it means to be a classic cocktail."
--Thinking About a Classic Whisky Cocktail by Hans Allhoff

In the Boston area, many restaurants and bars offer their own Manhattan, some more traditional while others are intriguing variations. If you really enjoy a Manhattan somewhere, and want to replicate it at home, ask the bartender about how they prepare the cocktail. Find out which specific ingredients are used, from the whiskey to the vermouth, the bitters to any other special ingredients. Also find out the specific amounts used of each ingredient so you can get the ratios correct.

I want to present a handful of Manhattans you can find at local spots, some cocktails that I have enjoyed at various times. If you have your own favorite restaurant or bar for Manhattans, please tell us about them in the comments.

At The Blue Ox in Lynn, they offer a Barrel-Aged Manhattan, made with bourbon, and the cocktail has been aged in a whiskey barrel for two months. The cocktail is smooth and complex, with an added depth to it. It is nicely balanced, not overly sweet, and with a mild spice element.

At Il Casale Cucina Campana + Bar in Lexington, they also offer a barrel-aged Manhattan, their  Meletti Barrel Aged Manhattan, which is made with Overholt Rye, Meletti Amaro, & an Amarena cherry. Instead of Vermouth, they use an Amaro, which still provides some sweetness as well as herbal elements. This was a deep and savory cocktail, with intriguing spice and herbal notes,  as well as a nice bitter tinge. It is an interesting variation of a Manhattan, the Amaro working very well.

Osteria Posto in Waltham offers their own Manhattan variation, also using an Italian digestiv rather than Vermouth. The Golden Age is made from Rittenhouse Rye, Cynar, Orange Bitters, and with smoked ice. It possesses a strong bitter and spicy taste with a hint of orange. Well balanced and delicious, this is a hearty winter cocktail.

Chopps American Bar & Grill in Burlington offers barrel-aged Manhattans, though the specific whiskey varies. The Barrel Rested Makers 46 Bourbon made a savory and delicious cocktail, with a nice depth of flavor to it. I've had other Manhattans here and they have always been pleasing.

At Osteria Nino in Burlington, you will find a more traditional Manhattan, the Nino Manhattan, which is made with Bourbon, Carpano Antica Formula Vermouth, bitters, and a cherry. Delicious and savory, it is a little sweeter than a Rye Manhattan, but not overly so. A fine sipping cocktail.

The Manhattan Cocktail: Creating Your Own (Part 2)

“My mentor, Tony Abou-Ganim, once told me the Manhattan should look and taste like Frank Sinatra in a glass.”
--The Manhattan Cocktail: A Modern Guide to the Whiskey Classic by Albert W.A. Schmidt

As I mentioned yesterday, though the Manhattan cocktail seems simple, made from only three basic ingredients, there is far more complexity in its creation than many realize. The objective is to balance the three ingredients to create the specific flavor profile that you desire. That would be relatively easy if each of the three ingredients possessed a uniform flavor but instead, each ingredient has such diversity that creating the balance you want gets more complicated. You need to understand the nature of the ingredients you use and then adapt your cocktail recipe accordingly.

Let's explore some of the complexities of the decision making involved in creating a Manhattan.

We’ll begin with the main ingredient, the Whiskey. First, there is the decision of which whiskey type to use, such as rye or bourbon. As a rough generalization, rye will tend to be more spicy and savory while a bourbon will tend to be sweeter. Thus, you can see that this initial decision will have a significant impact on the flavor profile of your cocktail. Do you want a more savory taste or a sweeter one?

However, there is also diversity in each whiskey category, especially when considering specific brands, which needs to be considered. For example, some bourbons have a higher proportion of rye, making them spicier than other bourbons with a higher proportion of corn. Other whiskies, which have spent a longer time in the barrel, may be spicier as well. In addition, some whiskies are lighter in body while others are heavier.

In essence, each specific brand and bottling of whiskey will create a different flavor profile in a Manhattan, though sometimes the differences might seem minor. With other comparisons, the differences can be quite significant. Selecting your whiskey for the Manhattan is a significant choice in the final resulting cocktail.

With the second ingredient, Vermouth, there is similar diversity in its taste profiles, especially now with the boom in artisan Vermouths. In general, you want to use a sweet vermouth, but sweetness levels will vary. In addition, the herbal and spice blends in each different Vermouth can vary tremendously, which creates a wide range of flavors that will affect your Manhattan. Some will be more bitter or floral than others. Some will use rare herbs and spices not found in many other Vermouths while there are also lighter and heavier Vermouths.

I should mention that not enough people pay attention to the Vermouth used in their Manhattans. They purchase inexpensive Vermouth, without much consideration to its flavor profile. You should pay as much concern for your Vermouth as you do your whiskey. Start exploring the myriad Vermouths on the market, checking out the different flavor profiles they display. It will make a big difference in your Manhattan.

Choosing your whiskey and vermouth should not be separate decisions as the two need to interact properly within your cocktail and deciding on the proper ratio of the two is vital. Though the original recipes generally called for a 1:1 ratio, more modern recipes call for more of a 2:1 ration, in favor of whiskey, though that varies to a degree. It will take some experimentation, to determine the proper balance that works best for you.

For example, a lighter bodied whiskey could be overwhelmed by a more powerful vermouth so you need to adjust that ratio, lowering the amount of Vermouth. In addition, some of the heavier whiskies need more vermouth to balance them out. If you have a sweeter whiskey, you might not want to mix it with a sweeter vermouth as the end result might be much sweeter than you desire. If you want a more savory Manhattan, then you might need to use less sweet Vermouth, or one will more herbal and spice notes. Everyone has their personal taste preferences so the ratio and combinations they desire will vary.

The third ingredient, Bitters, will help create the balance between the whiskey and vermouth. Gary Regan says that bitters are key: ''They bring together the herbal aspects of the vermouth and the forthrightness of the whisky and point up the best aspects of both." These bitters provide concentrated flavors, taking a larger role than might be understood as only a dash or two are commonly used. Although Angostura is the default type of bitters, others use Orange bitters as an addition or a substitute. You could also use almost any type of bitters, giving different flavored accents to your cocktail. Again, experimentation will help determine your favorite flavor profile.

Let's now consider an optional ingredient, the Garnish. Probably the most common garnish is the cherry, from the generic Maraschino cherry to the higher-end cherries soaked in brandy, bourbon or another alcohol. These all with add a little accent of a flavor to the cocktail, and maybe a touch more sweetness. Other common garnishes include a lemon or orange twist, which add a bit of citrus and acidity to the cocktail. My main recommendation is to use quality ingredients for your garnish.

At some restaurants and bars, though you can do it as home too, they barrel age their Manhattans, letting the prepared cocktail sit in a barrel for a time, maybe 30 days or so. This can provide some added depth and complexity to a Manhattan, as well as increase some of the spicy elements. I haven't aged any Manhattans at home yet, but will likely purchase a barrel in the near future to start doing so.

As you can see, creating a basic Manhattan can be much more complex than readily apparent. You can even get more complex by making up some of the myriad variations of the Manhattan. If the whiskey you use is Scotch, it becomes a Rob Roy. The Perfect Manhattan is made with equal portions of sweet and dry Vermouth. A Jumbo has equal parts of Rye, sweet and dry Vermouth (without any bitters) while a Honolulu has equal parts of Bourbon, sweet and dry Vermouth (without any bitters). The list of variations is endless and bartenders are always trying to create their own special versions.

To Be Continued...