TasteCamp Vermont: History, Prohibition & Today

"Vermont winemaking offers an opportunity to participate in a modern economy with an artisan product that is true to an agricultural heritage and ethic of craftsmanship for which Vermont is widely recognized."
--Todd Trzaskos in Wines Of Vermont 

Vermont is well known for maple syrup and cheese, Bernie Sanders and Ben & Jerry's, skiing and leaf-peeping. However, its drinks industry, including wine, beer, cider and spirits, is lesser known for many people. Of all those drinks, its beers may have the greatest recognition beyond the state lines, though it is interesting that historically, there were few commercial breweries in Vermont. Currently though, you'll easily find over 40 commercial beer breweries in the state. Vermont entire drinks industry, though still relatively young in many respects, needs more recognition as there are a number of excellent producers worthy of your attention.

This past June, approximately 35 writers and their significant others, attended TasteCamp 2016, which was held in Vermont. TasteCamp was created by Lenn Thompson, of the New York Cork Report, back in 2009, and the concept is a weekend immersion into a wine region for a small group of wine writers. We have visited places such as Long Island, the Finger Lakes, Quebec, Virginia, and Niagara. This year, the TasteCamp attendees included people from both Canada and the U.S., with a couple people coming from as far away as California. It's great to see wine lovers willing to travel such a distance to explore a small region where most of their products aren't sold outside of the state.

"Wine offers Vermont the opportunity to blend the components of its geographic, agricultural and cultural past to enhance its evolving modern identity."
--Todd Trzaskos in Wines Of Vermont 

The TasteCamp group generally visits a variety of producers, tours vineyards, tastes dozens of wines, dines on local foods and holds a fun BYOB dinner. Over the years, the scope of the concept has evolved so that it is no longer limited to wine, and now also includes beers, ciders and spirits, noting how local regions have developed fascinating drinks industries. A key principle for TasteCamp is "drink local," consuming products that are locally produced, usually from local ingredients. There is little reason to limit ourselves to wine when local producers are making so many interesting and tasty beverages.  

Each TasteCamp has a limited number of sponsors and the attendees shoulder the lion's share of expenses for the trip, including their transportation, lodging and most meals. With its limited size, TasteCamp is a more intimate event, allowing you to get to know everyone in the group, reconnecting with old friends and meeting new ones too. The focus of the event is on tasting, both food and drink, and there aren't any seminars or events about writing, blogging, photography, or similar activities.

"Vermont winemaking is hard work but also an honor, an opportunity to commune with the land and to make something special."
--Todd Trzaskos in Wines Of Vermont 

TasteCamp is a curated event, intended to showcase some of the best of the region. This year, a huge debt is owed to Todd Trzaskos (pictured above atop the barrel), of Vermont Wine Media and author of the book Wines Of Vermont, for all his hard work and dedication in helping to plan, organize and curate TasteCamp Vermont. His efforts helped to make this one of the best TasteCamps ever. Lenn Thompson, Remy Charest and myself also contributed to the organization and planning of this event. The attendees learned much about Vermont, acquiring a new appreciation for this region, and spreading their new passion to others.

To understand the present, it can be worthwhile to understand something about the past, to see some of the origins of the drinks industry in Vermont. Almost two hundred years ago, Vermonters were drinking a significant amount of alcohol. "While estimates vary on daily consumption in the United States during this period, it is generally agreed that the average adult consumed around five gallons of spirits, a barrel’s worth of beer and untold amounts of hard cider over the course of a year. A simpler breakdown would be around seven drinks a day per man, woman and child." (Vermont Prohibition: Teetotalers, Bootleggers & Corruption by Adam Krakowski).

Around 1820, there were over 200 distilleries in Vermont (more than the number of towns in the state), and it is thought that Gin was the most widely produced spirit. Curiously, there were few beer breweries during this period, which was due in part because many people made beer (and cider) at home and they could even find beer recipes in local newspapers. However, the 1820s also saw the rise of the temperance movement, such as the founding of the Vermont Society for the Promotion of Temperance.

"Vermont's wines represent the unique qualities of place, the inspirations and aspirations of its people, and offer something that the world at large might enjoy."
--Todd Trzaskos in Wines Of Vermont 

The temperance movement was apparently quite influential in Vermont and in 1852, a state mandated prohibition on alcohol was passed, effective March 1853. Contrast that with Federal Prohibition which didn't begin until 67 years later, in 1920. The main focus of the Vermont prohibition was on distilled spirits, with lesser restrictions on fermented alcohol. For example, people were permitted to make their own fermented alcohol at home for their own consumption. There was also another law that people could consume alcohol at their home, provided it didn't cause intoxication. It seems the law was fascinated with the idea of intoxication as the only beers that were prohibited were those which were found to be "intoxicating" and there would eventually be legal cases on that very issues.

The production of hard cider was also permitted, for a number of reasons and with some restrictions. For example, you couldn't add any additional fermentable sugars to the cider. The government also felt that with the ease of cider production, and the myriad of apple trees in the state, that it would be impossible to enforce a prohibition on cider. Plus, cider provided important nutritional benefits as water consumption was still risky. Prohibition thus led to a surge in hard cider consumption, which eventually bothered the temperance movement which finally got hard cider production banned in 1880.

"When newcomers to Vermont wine realize where the wine in their glasses comes from, they may think that the people making it are crazy."
--Todd Trzaskos in Wines Of Vermont 

Like Federal Prohibition, Vermont prohibition was generally ineffective, especially considering their border with Canada. Plenty of illegal alcohol passed across the border and law enforcement seemed relatively useless in stopping the majority of the flow of this bootleg alcohol. Prohibition though did decrease revenue, from alcohol sales, for the state and it also decreased the amount of tourism, hurting many communities.

After prohibition ended, Vermont was not quick to rebound and it wasn't until approximately 30 years ago that the alcohol industry started to establish itself once again. As such, their drinks industry is still relatively new, in many aspects, yet they have come far in a short time. There is certainly plenty of room for growth but there is much to be proud about now, and is worthy of your exploration. 

"Winemaking in this place may be just a bit crazy, but it is more truly the mark of a certain kind of bravery (possibly fortified by wine), that emboldens growers, producers and supporters of the endeavor."
--Todd Trzaskos in Wines Of Vermont 

Since 2009, I've written a number of articles and reviews of Vermont wine, cider and spirits. In prior year's, I've attended the Vermont Cheesemakers Festival which not only offered an abundance of cheese but also presented some of the wines, ciders, beers and spirits of Vermont, from Boyden Valley Winery to Whistle Pig Distillery. Most recently, I've written about Mad River Distillers, more on Dave Pickerell & Whistle Pig, Eden Speciality Ciders, and Shacksbury Cider. Over the years, I've seen a clear improvement and evolution of their wines, ciders and spirits. TasteCamp helped to solidify my positive impressions of the current status of Vermont's drinks industry.

In the coming weeks, I'll be sharing what I experienced in Vermont, highlighting plenty of interesting wines, ciders, and spirits, as well as some compelling food. This summer, as well as in the coming fall, you should visit Vermont to taste your own way through some of the best the state has to offer. It's only a short drive from Massachusetts and there is much to see and do in Vermont. It's certainly one of my favorite places to visit and in my subsequent articles, I'll give you more motivation to travel to Vermont as well.

I'll also be looking forward to next year's TasteCamp.

"This is just the beginning of history for the wines of Vermont."
--Todd Trzaskos in Wines Of Vermont 

Two Compelling Greek Wines At Committee

Why aren't you drinking more Greek wines?

A week ago, with family and friends, I had a fantastic birthday celebration at Committee. We began with cocktails out on the patio, including the refreshing "We Can't Elope," and then when we went inside for dinner, opting for wine.

Their wine list is essentially Mediterranean, and includes wines from France, Spain, Italy, Lebanon and Greece. Their more than 25 Greek wine selections include Sparkling, White, Rosé, Red, Retsina and Dessert wines. You might feel a little intimidated by the Greek wines as most of them are produced from strange grapes you might not know. However, you should take a chance on Greek wines and feel free to ask your server for advice on which Greek wine to order. I'm sure once you taste then, you'll enjoy their diverse and delicious aromas and flavors.

Let me also provide two of my own recommendations, a white and a red, from their Greek wine list.  We thoroughly enjoyed these wines at dinner and I'm positive many other wine lovers will enjoy them just as much.

Both of the wines were from the same winery, Ktima Brintziki, a family owned winery which is located in the village of Lantzoi, only a few miles from the ancient site of Olympia, where the ancient Olympic Games were once conducted. Vineyards have been growing on the property since 1932 but the Brintziki winery wasn't founded until 1996. Dionysios Brintziki, and his wife Dionysia, were both professional musicians but eventually decided to get into the family winemaking business. Having names related to Dionysus, the Greek god of wine, may have even helped in that decision. They own about 13 hectares of vineyards and in 2010, they were certified as the first green winery in Greece and their wines are certified organic by BIOHellas.

The 2014 Ktima Brintziki Tinaktorogos (about $50 at Committee) is made from 100% Tinaktorogos, a rare, indigenous grape that is so ancient that it might have been mentioned by Homer. It is so rare that it isn't even mentioned in Jancis Robinson's encyclopedic Wine Grapes. This wine might even be the only 100% Tinaktorogos in the world.  It's name is derived from the fact that it casts many flowers during the flowering period. There is also little information about this specific wine online, unless maybe you can read Greek.

With an ABV of 13%, this wine undergoes battonage 3 times a week for a month and seems not to see any oak. On the nose, there are alluring notes of stone fruits and light floral elements. On the palate, it was crisp and dry, with delicious flavors of apple and pear, with floral hints and a touch of tea. There was some round, creaminess to the wine, balanced with its nice acidity. The finish was long and pleasing and it certainly had a slightly different taste than many other white wines. It paired well with a diversity of food, from the Avocado Hummus to the Tomato Keftedes (tomato fritters). Skip the Chardonnay or Sauvignon Blanc and choose this Tinaktorogos instead.

The 2011 Ktima Brintziki Avgoustiatis (about $50 at Committee) is made from 100% Avgoustiatis which is also a rare, indigenous grape. This grape may have originated on the Ionian islands or the Cyclades, and its name derives from the Greek word for August, as that is the month when its berries ripen. Wines made from this grape tend to have a deep red color, soft tannins and high acidity.

With an ABV of 12.8%, this wine was aged in new French barrique for about twelve months. This wine did possess a rich red color and an intriguing nose of red fruits, mild spices and savory notes, possibly a touch of olive. On the palate, the wine was dry with mild tannins, and tasty flavors of cherry, plum, savory herbs and mild spice notes. It was elegant, with nice acidity and a lingering, satisfying finish. It was certainly more Old World in style, and was an excellent accompaniment to grilled meats, from Lamb Kofte to Loukaniko, from Chicken Souvlaki to Bifteki. This is a very food friendly wine, with a complex and interesting flavor profile, and highly recommended.

So when you dine next at Committee, why not expand your plate and try a Greek wine.

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I am back again with a new edition of Thursday Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting, upcoming food & drink events.
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1) Chef Will Gilson of Puritan & Company and Chef Steve “Nookie” Postal of Commonwealth invite guests to join them on Sunday, August 7, from 11am-4pm, for a Commonwealth “Sunday Slam Summer Brunch Pop-Up. ” Gilson and the Puritan team will be serving up an epically delicious “Shore-to-Shore Pop-Up” menu on Commonwealth’s Kendall Square patio.

The North Shore and South Shore-themed menu, priced a la carte, will include the following items:

North Shore:
Roast beef 3-way sandwich
Fried Clams
Baked Oysters
Grilled Italian Sausage

South Shore:
Bar Pizza (cheese, pepperoni, or veggie available)
Fried Scallop Roll
Stuffies (stuffed clams)
Corned Beef Sandwich

Sides:
Grilled Corn-on-the-Cob with honey butter
Low-Brow Caesar Salad

For Reservations, please call 617-945-7030

2) In celebration of the 7th Annual Kiehl’s LifeRide for amfAR, Kiehl’s President Chris Salgardo and amfAR CEO Kevin Robert Frost, along with a crew of celebrity riders, will arrive in Boston on Wednesday, August 10, from 11am-12pm, for a special event at the Kiehl’s store on Newbury Street.

The event is free and open to the public and will consist of meet & greets with the riders, complimentary skincare treatments, music from local artists and small bites from Alden & Harlow and Waypoint Chef/Owner, Michael Scelfo. To continue this spirit of local giving, for the first time ever, Kiehl’s will be donating $5,000 to AIDS Action Committee of Massachusetts in an official on-site check presentation.

Kiehl’s LifeRide for amfAR is an annual multi-day, multi-state charity motorcycle ride to raise funds and awareness for amfAR, one of the world’s leading non-profit organizations dedicated to finding a cure for AIDS. This year’s 11-day ride will kick off in Kiehl’s hometown of New York City on August 3rd, with stops in Long Island, Hartford, Provincetown, Boston and ending in Philadelphia on August 13th.

Follow the journey and join the conversation by using #LifeRide7

WHO:
Michael Scelfo, Chef/Owner of Alden & Harlow and Waypoint
Chris Salgardo, President, Kiehl’s USA
Kevin Robert Frost, CEO, amfAR, The Foundation of AIDS Research

And fellow LifeRide for amfAR participants:
Scott Patterson – Actor, known for TV series “Gilmore Girls”
Theo Rossi – Actor, known for TV series “Sons of Anarchy”
Gilles Marini – Actor, known for TV series “Brothers & Sisters” and “Dancing with the Stars” and the film “Sex and the City”
Grant Reynolds – Host, “What Could Possibly Go Wrong?”
Teddy Sears – Actor, known for TV series “Masters of Sex”
Millissa Sears – Actress, known for TV series “The Mentalist”
Anthony Carrino – Host, “Kitchen Cousins”
Ben Cohen – World Cup Rugby Champion

Every customer who visits Kiehl’s on Newbury St. on August 10th will receive a 15% discount on all purchases, with the exception of charitable products and value sets. Kiehl’s will donate that 15% to amfAR, up to $125,000.

The cure is in your hands: 100% of net profits from the sale of Kiehl’s Limited Edition Ultimate Strength Hand Salve, a jumbo size of the brand’s classic formula ($28.50), up to $25,000, will benefit amfAR.

3) On Saturday, August 27,, from 1pm-5pm, The Wine ConneXtion, located in North Andover, is bringing Boston’s chef, restaurateur and “Top Chef” finalist Tiffani Faison of Tiger Mama and Sweet Cheeks Q, to the North Shore for a complimentary tasting of her BBQ and biscuits which will be paired with their robust red wine blends and exclusive small batch bourbon.

Tiffani Faison is an American chef, restaurateur, culinary consultant and television personality who rose to fame after her stellar performance on Bravo’s “Top Chef” series. Recently named “Best Chef of 2016” by Boston magazine, Tiffani spent much of her childhood in the South, which inspired her first restaurant, Sweet Cheeks Q. In 2011, Sweet Cheeks Q took Boston’s Fenway neighborhood by storm with delicious Southern-style food and inspired cocktails served in a welcoming, family-style space. Sweet Cheeks has been awarded “Boston’s Best Barbecue” by both Boston Magazine and The Improper Bostonian and featured in Food & Wine, Forbes, Travel & Leisure, CBS’ “The Dish,” NBC’s “The Today Show,” People, and The New York Times, to name a few. In 2015 Tiffani opened her newest concept, Tiger Mama, which is located just steps away from Sweet Cheeks on Boylston Street, featuring playful interpretations of Southeast Asian-inspired dishes set in a funky, transporting space.

All afternoon, the staff at The Wine ConneXtion will be pouring samples of robust red wine blends and specialty bourbons from their BackRoom which will complement signature BBQ dishes that will be prepared onsite by Tiffani Faison herself. As guests sip on summer’s savory spirits and bold blends, they will have the chance to meet Tiffani and try her famous Southern-style eats, including her excellent biscuits.

Tasting is complimentary. Walk-ins welcome all day, must be 21+.

4) Chef/Owner Michael Schlow and the Tico Boston team invite guests to celebrate summer on their patio with a special “keep calm and summer on” party. On Monday, August 8th, Tico will host a “keep calm and summer on” patio party featuring boozy build-your-own sundaes, complimentary chips and guac, and beats by Dj Dolo.

The sundae bar will be available from 5 p.m. onwards will offer a selection of ice cream flavors infused with homemade vanilla bean-infused Ketel One vodka and a variety of unlimited toppings for $15.

Ice cream flavors will include:
Mint Chocolate Chip
Vanilla
Chocolate.

Sundae toppings will include:
Oreo
Strawberries
Sprinkles
M&M’s
Fudge
Caramel sauce
Whipped cream
Cherries
Mini Twix

In addition to the build-your-own boozy sundae bar, complimentary chips, guacamole, and salsa will be provided. DJ Dolo will also be spinning beats on the patio from 7 p.m. to 10 p.m.

For reservations, please call (617) 351-0400

5) $1 Oysters, all week long! Starting August 1, Bar Boulud, Boston is making oysters more affordable. As a permanent addition to their menu, they will now serve freshly-shucked Malpeque oysters from Prince Edward Island for just $1 from 2pm-6pm, Monday through Friday, in the bar, lounge and terrace areas of the restaurant. With most places offering oysters for $2-$3 per oyster, if not more, this is a nice bargain, especially as it isn't a temporary special. Get your brine on & order some oysters with a nice chilled Rosé wine.

6) And more Oyster joy! Saloon, in Davis Square, is now serving up new oyster-themed specials available through Labor Day. Dubbed “Mollusk Madness,” executive chef Shayne Nunes will be shucking $1 oysters from local waters served with classic cocktail sauce and a red wine mignonette. (Saloon’s delicacies of the sea normally are priced at $15 for a half-dozen and $30 for a dozen.)

To complement the blissful brininess of the bivalves, the beverage team will shake up a specialty cocktail, Mother of Pearl, made with Scotch, lemon, Combier, St-Germain and Amaro Averna ($10).

WHEN: Available daily through September 5 from 5:00pm-7:00pm

7) Are you up for a mighty Burger Challenge? In honor for the 2016 Olympics, A&B Burgers, one of my favorite burger spots, is bringing back their "Challenge Burger" from August 5th-August 21st. This Triple stacked, fully loaded burger weighs in at nearly 2 LBS. Wow!

What will you find on this Burger? Three Beef Patties, three layers of American Cheese, 3 Fried Eggs,  3 layers of Pickles, 3 layers of Haystack Onion Rings, Arugula, and AB Sauce (creamy feta, garlic base, aji amarillo deliciousness). All stacked between a Brioche Bun. And it only costs $21! That is a real bargain for such an enormous burger.

Anyone who is willing to accept this challenge will be timed and in the running for a Gold, Silver or Bronze medal. Winners will be announced on August 22nd and given an A&B gift bag.

So who wants to come with me and attempt this challenge? How fast can you devour this huge burger?

World Baijiu Day: August 9

As I've said before, it seems to me that Baijiu, an intriguing distilled spirit that originated in China, seems to me to be the Durian fruit of the spirits world. Both have a reputation for possessing a funky smell which turns off some people, while others are fervent fans of both the smell and taste. Baijiu is actually the most popular spirit in the world yet most Americans know little, if anything about it. However, it is a compelling beverage and I strongly encourage everyone to seek it out and sample some of its wonders.

If you want some more information about Baijiu, you can check out my recent articles about this fascinating spirit.  

Baijiu: The Durian Fruit Of The Spirits World (Part 1)
Baijiu: Its Unique Production Process (Part 2)
Baijiu: Drinking Etiquette & Some Reviews (Part 3)
Baijiu: Cocktails, Boston & World Baijiu Day (Part 4)
Baijiu: Food Pairings (Part 5)
Vinn Bajiu: Made in Portland
Baijiu: The Essential Guide To Chinese Spirits by Derek Sandhaus

Next week is also a great time to celebrate and learn more about Baijiu. A week from today, on Tuesday, August 9, it is World Baijiu Day. This holiday was created by Jim Boyce, who runs the nightlife blog Beijing Boyce and wine blog Grape Wall of China. The intent of the holiday is to raise exposure of Baijiu, to spread awareness beyond the borders of Chin

Over 40 venues, in 24 cities, are participating in this holiday and you can check out a list of those venues, those bars and restaurants, which are planning Baijiu celebrations. Some of these spots are even celebrating right now, making it an entire week of celebrations. You'll find a diverse variety of ways that these venues are showcasing Baijiu, from cocktails, liqueurs and infusions to chocolate, pizza and beer.

Jim Boyce says, "It's part of a theme of going "beyond ganbei", the typical practice of draining shots of room-temperature baijiu, one that turns off many people." He also stated, "Like many others, I've had those reckless ganbei sessions that left me wondering if I could look at a bottle again," says Boyce. "But this spirit has a long history, an impressive range of styles and, as we saw last year, can work with cocktails and infusions and foods."

In the Boston area, there is a single restaurant, Red Lantern, that is participating. At Red Lantern, they carry Strong Aroma Style Baijiu including Hong Kong Baiju ($10), Luzhou Laojiao Zisha Daqu ($9), Mianzhu Daqu ($9), Shui Jing Fang Wallaby ($20), Wu Liang Ye ($42) and one Sauce Aroma Style, the Kweichow Moutai ($40). These are also available in a Tasting Flight of 3 brands (1/2oz pours) for $33. In addition, Brother Cleve has created a special Baijiu cocktail for them, the Peking Mule ($12), which is made from Mianzhu Daqu, Plum Shrub, Black Walnut & Ginger Beer.

In the rest of the U.S., there will be celebratory events in Asian City in Houston; Peking Tavern in Los Angeles; Lumos in New York City; Jock Lindsey's Hangar Bar & Trader Sam's Grog Grotto in Orlando; Vinn Distillery in Portland, Oregon; and Jackey Cafe, Panda Gourmet, & Wok and Roll in Washington.

You can hold your own World Baijiu event with friends and family. Just seek out some Baijiu at your local spirits shop and have your own tasting party. Baijiu is becoming more readily available at liquor shops in the U.S., though previously you might not have even realized it existed. Although Baijiu is hugely popular in Asia, it needs much greater exposure in the rest of the world. It is a unique and delicious spirit and well worth seeking out.

Expand your palate and try something different and more unique. Taste some Baijiu and celebrate World Baijiu Day!

Rant: Old Restaurants Need Love Too

     Eighteen years ago, in 1998, Taberna de Haro opened in Brookline, presenting delicious Spanish cuisine and about 40 Spanish wines, including 10 Sherries. It has seen numerous changes and growth since then, and continues offering a tasty variety of Spanish dishes. In addition, its wine list has grown by leaps and bounds, now including over 300 Spanish wines and over 60 Sherries. It is one of my favorite restaurants and I love dropping by to sample one of their new Sherry offerings.

     What bothers me though about Taberna de Haro, and many other older restaurants is that they often get ignored by numerous food writers. Many writers choose to write only about the hot new restaurants which have opened during the past year. There is a rush by some to be the first to write about a new restaurant. As such, most readers hear primarily about new restaurants and don't hear much about older restaurants, which might be equally as compelling as any new restaurant.

     Though Taberna de Haro has been around for 18 years, there are still plenty of people who have never heard of it, or who don't realize the extent of its offerings beyond its Spanish cuisine. For example, they have the largest and best Spanish wine list in the Boston area, and it is probably also one of the best all-Spanish wine lists in the entire country. They also offer an incredible selection of Sherry, which also is probably one of the best in the country. You might not know they also offer numerous Gin selections.

     The restaurant industry is very, very tough and each month, a number of restaurants close their doors.  It's easy for a new restaurant to gain publicity, and get seen by a myriad of potential customers, for older places have much more difficulty getting discussed in the media. And without such exposure, it is harder for them to get exposed to potential customers. It is probably part of the reason why some chefs open multiple restaurants, knowing that will gain them additional exposure, which will also transfer to their older restaurants as well.

     Places like Taberna de Haro are worthy culinary destinations which have stood the test of time. They deserve more attention than they receive. We need more food writers to write about older restaurants too, to not just highlight new spots. We need more food writers to discuss such older places in social media. We need to give these places more publicity so that they continue to thrive and   provide great food and drink.

     Newer isn't necessarily better and we need to better appreciate the offerings of the older and experienced.