Thursday, March 1, 2018

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I am back again with a new edition of Thursday Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting, upcoming food & drink events.
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1) The Glass House in Cambridge has launched a new breakfast bar within the restaurant. From Monday through Friday, 7 am to 2 pm, the breakfast bar will serve tasty favorites from it's now closed sister cafe K2, as well as new coffee creations and dishes. Grab some early morning or post lunch energy from their coffee menu that includes creatively caffeinated concoctions including the Bees Knees, Hard Day, Lavender Latte and more. Or, fuel up for the day with savory specialities like the signature Spud Boats, Salmon or Avocado Toast, breakfast Burrito Bowls and more.

Check out the full breakfast bar menu here.

2) It's March and that means Kane’s Handcrafted Donuts is rolling out new Donut Specials, including three decadent flavors: the Pistachio Donut, the Chocolate Marshmallow Donut and the Reese’s Cup Donut.

The Pistachio Donut is a yeast-style donut dipped in glaze made from roasted, ground pistachios and Kane’s signature honey glaze, topped with pistachios. The Chocolate Marshmallow Donut, a yeast-style donut filled with marshmallow filling then iced with Taza Chocolate frosting and finished with a dollop of marshmallow. The Reese’s Cup Donut is a yeast-style donut, covered with milk chocolate Taza frosting, drizzled with Teddie Peanut Butter and topped with whipped cream and a piece of a Reese’s Cup.

I'm a big fan of both the Pistachio Donut and Chocolate Marshmallow Donut.

For the gluten-free March flavor, Kane’s has crafted the Gluten-Free Blueberry Blast Donut, a blueberry cake style donut dipped in blueberry-infused honey glaze. The cupcake of the month is a Vanilla Cupcake with Chocolate Frosting, a classic that everyone loves.

All the above-mentioned flavors of the month are available at both Kane’s locations throughout the month of March.

3) On Tuesday, March 13, at 6:30pm, Legal Harborside will host a four-plus-course wine dinner featuring pours originating back to one of the most impressive winery estates in Tuscany, Italy. Known for its rich culture and history dating back to 1560, the Collazzi Estate was privileged with the artistry of Michelangelo when he was commissioned to design and create the estate’s Villa amongst the countryside property south of Florence.

Representing the revered Collazzi collections and his home country, Alberto Torelli’s knowledge for winemaking and agriculture originated from his family’s roots and became a life-long passion. In 2005, Torelli joined the Collazzi team and spearheaded plans to enhance and modernize the techniques of the winery’s winemaking processes. Collazzi Estate’s sandy and clay soils, rich in limestone, with an abundantly rocky texture, make home to grapes of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and a small amount of traditional varieties.

The Collazzi Tuscan wine dinner menu will be presented as follows:
HORS D’OEUVRES
Crab-Stuffed Zucchini Blossom, Avocado Crema
Cod Cake, Lemon Garlic Aioli
Foie Gras Terrine Crostini, Port Reduction
Collazzi “Otto Muri,” Toscana Bianco IGT, 2016
FIRST COURSE
Seafood Charcuterie (octopus mortadella, salmon rillettes, smoked trout)
Collazzi “Libertà,” Toscana Rosso IGT, 2014
SECOND COURSE
Grilled Swordfish (romesco sauce, braised baby artichokes, lemon oil)
Collazzi “Libertà,” Toscana Rosso IGT, 2015
MAIN COURSE
Parmesan Pine Nut-Crusted Lamb Loin (maitake mushrooms, spring onion polenta, blackberry demi-glace)
Collazzi Toscana Rosso IGT, 2015
CHEESE COURSE
Taleggio, Aged Gouda, Pecorino Romano
Collazzi “Bastioni,” Chianti Classico DOCG, 2015

COST: $110 per person, excludes tax and gratuity
Reservations required by calling 617-530-9397

4) SRV’s co-executive chefs of Kevin O’Donnell and Michael Lombardi bring back their popular cicchetti takeover series with guest chef, Justin Shoults of Oak + Rowan, on Wednesday, March 7th in its new after-work time of 5:30pm – 7:30pm

Guests will be treated to Shoults spin on cicchetti to the likes of; Beer Tartar + Caviar (potato crepe, smoked egg, horseradish,) Baby Artichoke (stracciatella, carrot panna cotta,) Duck Polpette (pear mustard, caraway,) and Grilled Cuttlefish (cod pate, panisse, meyer lemon.) Chef Shoults will join O’Donnell & Lombardi in SRV’s sleek bar and bacaro area of the restaurant where guests can pair their gratis bites with Italian-inspired cocktails, amaro or a variety of wine by the glass and bottle.

Reservations are not required. Featured cicchetti will not be available in main dining room. For more information, please contact (617) 536-9500

5) Puritan & Company Chef/Owner Will Gilson, Wine Director Peter Nelson, and the Puritan & Co. team invite guests to join them for the upcoming Totally Fried Fizz FestRumor has it sparkling wines are amongst the most diverse and versatile wines for food pairings and the wine nerds agree - both sweet and savory fried foods are a divine partner with all things bubbly.

The Totally Fried Fizz Fest will be held on Thursday, March 15, form 6:30pm-10pm, and will offer an introduction to the diversity of styles and tastes of sparkling wines served alongside the tastiest fried foods. From funky reds to Grand Cru Grower Champagne, the industry-style tasting will allow guests to try dozens of wines from all over the world from various grape varietals exhibiting a full array of colors and flavors.

Tickets cost $70 and can be purchased on Eventbrite at: https://www.eventbrite.com/e/totally-fried-fizz-fest-part-deux-tickets-43361966810?aff=eac2.

This should be a killer event! Peter Nelson really knows his wine and Will Gilson will certainly provide some great food.

6) The New England Center for Arts and Technology (NECAT) is pleased to welcome legendary Chef Jacques Pépin on Friday, March 30, from 4pm-7pm, for a cooking class and cocktail reception. Meet culinary icon Chef Jacques Pépin at an intimate cocktail reception and receive a complimentary signed copy of Chez Jacques, while supporting NECAT, a local culinary job training organization.

Guests will sit in on a cooking demo with Chef Jacques Pépin in NECAT's beautiful, state-of-the-art culinary amphitheater. A cocktail reception follows, with delicious hors d'oeuvres prepared by NECAT students. Chef Pépin is a world-renowned French chef, television personality and author who, together with Julia Child and James Beard, redefined the way Americans view food and dining. Boston is near and dear to Chef Pepin’s heart, as he often visited and cooked with his friend Julia Child in Cambridge and has been a faculty member at Boston University for many years.

After a long and wildly successful career, Chef Pepin has launched the Jacques Pépin Foundation to help support organizations like NECAT, which help disadvantaged individuals enter his beloved industry. NECAT is grateful and excited to welcome the distinguished chef to NECAT in Boston.

NECAT, a registered nonprofit, provides chronically unemployed and underemployed adults with a pathway to long-term employment in the food services industry. The program is tuition free and open to adults looking to commit to full-time employment in order to make a positive change in their lives and achieve economic self-sufficiency. NECAT’s participants face serious barriers to employment including lack of training, substance abuse recovery, homelessness and recent incarceration. Since 2013, NECAT has enrolled close to 500 students with 71% of graduates moving on to successful employment.

NECAT is a very worthy organization, once which has impressed me with its dedication and passion in giving a second chance to hundreds of people, instructing and preparing them for culinary careers. I've been to a few different NECAT events and have listened to a number of inspirational stories. I strongly encourage you to buy tickets to this event and support NECAT!

To purchase tickets, go to: www.jacquespepin.eventbrite.com

7) Chef Tony Maws is delighted to welcome his good friend Liz Vilardi, local wine pro, restaurateur and co-owner of Central Bottle, for a very special “Dinner with Tony & Liz” at The Kirkland Tap & Trotter on Thursday, March 8, at 6:30pm. This dinner will be a collaboration among friends, with Tony serving savory and soulful dishes inspired by his recent trip to Israel, and Liz selecting wine from an all-female winemaker lineup.

When Tony called and invited me, of course I said Yes!” shares Vilardi. “March 8 is International Women’s Day, so what great timing to pour wine and tell stories from some of my favorite French and Italian female winemakers!” Vilardi has always been a huge supporter of female winemakers, often hosting Female Winemaker events at her past restaurants, Belly and The Blue Room. “It will be nice to be in a restaurant again, and to be working with Tony. To have the opportunity to pair wine with a good friend who also happens to be a very accomplished chef and is creating dishes inspired by his recent trip to Israel – it doesn’t get much cooler than that!”

The Menu will be as follows:
First
Beet and Rose Hummus, Pistachio, Grilled Flatbread
Salad of Cabbage, Avocado, Labneh and Pine Nut
Salad of Cauliflower, Cubanelle Pepper, Za’atar
Eggplant, Aleppo Chile, EVOO and Tahina
Second
Grilled Portuguese Sardines, Preserved Lemon, Cilantro, Olives
Grilled Carciofi Alla Giudia -- Artichokes Jewish Style
Third
Wood Fire Roasted Lamb Shoulder, Zhoug
Freekeh Pilav, Almonds, Currants
Grilled Baby Vidalia Onions, Amba Sauce
Dessert
Malabi, Cara Cara Navels, Dates, Peanuts

The Wine:
Patricia Boyer-Domergue, Clos Centeilles from Minervois in the South of France
Elisabetti Fagiole, Sono Montenidoli, Tuscany, Italy
Elena Panteleone, La Stoppa, heart of Italy

Cost: $95
Tickets are available for “Dinner with Tony and Liz” on Eventbrite. The link: https://www.eventbrite.com/e/dinner-with-tony-and-special-guest-liz-vilardi-tickets-43491563437?aff=es2

Monday, February 26, 2018

Rant: I Want Tempura Not Fried Shrimp

Tempura has become an iconic Japanese dish, though its roots extend back to the Portuguese explorers and merchants who started visiting Japan in the 16th century. The primary recipe for tempura extends back to the 17th century and has remained largely unchanged. It became a popular item in food-carts and today, there are tempura-ya, tempura shops, that specialize in tempura.  Seafood and vegetables are the most common tempura items, though nowadays you can find plenty of other options as well.

I love tempura, from Shrimp to Sweet Potato, and when dining at a Japanese restaurant, I often use it as a benchmark to help determine the skill of the kitchen. The essence of tempura is its light, airy and crispy batter. It is so easy to know if you are eating tempura or something merely fried. If your shrimp has a heavy and thick batter, it is not really tempura and more just fried shrimp. So it shouldn't be called Tempura on your menu.

Last week, while dining at a relatively new Japanese restaurant, I ordered the shrimp tempura. The dish was an ample portion of shrimp, without any vegetables, but it wasn't tempura. The coating was heavy and thick, more soft than crunchy. It was fried shrimp but certainly not that light and airy tempura coating I desired. Why doesn't the restaurant realize their mistake, that they are not actually serving a proper tempura? It's not rocket science to know the difference.

I've seen this before at other Japanese restaurants. About four years ago, I informed one of those Japanese restaurants that their tempura was too heavy and thick. Three years later, the tempura hadn't changed and I informed them once again of the issue. This time, they actually did something about it, realizing the recipe they were using was incorrect. Their Tempura became an actual Tempura.

Restaurants, if you're going to list Tempura on your menu, then you better ensure it is a proper tempura, with its light, airy and crunchy coating. That is what people desire when they order tempura. Otherwise, they would order something like Fried Shrimp. It is simple to determine if you are serving tempura or not. So step up your game and give customers what they want.

Thursday, February 22, 2018

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I am back again with a new edition of Thursday Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting, upcoming food & drink events.
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1) Boston chef and restaurateur Jay Hajj and TV journalist Hank Phillippi Ryan join forces on Sunday, February 25 for the Champagne & Snowflakes Charity Brunch to raise money for the Chefs Table Foundation, a registered 501(c)3 that supports homeless veterans seeking careers in the culinary arts.

Guests will get a chance to meet both Hajj and Ryan while sipping champagne and enjoying an exclusive “mansion-style” brunch prepared by Endicott House executive chef Eddie Cerrato. The decadent brunch begins at 11 a.m. and takes place at the MIT Endicott House (80 Haven St., Dedham). Ryan will interview Hajj about his culinary journey and from boy in war-torn Lebanon to American chef, entrepreneur and Food Network regular today, as told in his recently published "Beirut to Boston" cookbook.

Hajj is best known as the chef-owner of South End casual dining landmark Mike’s City Diner. He’s also one of the partners and landlords behind Yvonne’s, the “supper club” in Downtown Crossing’s landmark Locke-Ober building, and other marquee restaurants around Boston.

Ryan’s is a familiar face to countless Bostonians as an investigative journalist for WHDH Channel 7. She’s also the award-winning author of 10 mystery novels. Guests will get the opportunity to learn more about those books, including her upcoming 2018 release, “Trust Me

Tickets for this culinary-forward fundraiser cost just $50 and can be purchased here on the Chef’s Table Foundation website.

2) CHOPPS American Bar and Grill is hosting a special fiesta in celebration of National Margarita Day today, February 22. In honor of the holiday, the CHOPPS teams welcome guests to sip on a variety of margaritas, enjoy special bites like tequila-infused doughnuts and taco specials, and enjoy live music starting at 6:30PM.

Guests can sample custom margaritas featuring Maestro Dobel Tequila, with a special lineup designed just for National Margarita Day. Margarita specials include the suave Black Diamond Margarita, made with fresh lime and agave served up in a black lava salt rimmed glass, and the spicy Smoked Pineapple Chipotle Margarita with Smoked Silver tequila and Bols Pineapple Chipotle Liqueur. Fruitier options are also available for those with a sweet tooth such as the Strawberry Fields and Mango Mania Margaritas, each including a sweet Bols Liqueur.

Executive Chef Steve Zimei will be offering taco specials to keep you fueled, including: Braised Short Rib (pickled red cabbage, jack cheese, tomatillo aioli), Tempura Fried Fish (shredded cabbage, carrot, pico de gallo, and lime), and Marinated Chicken (corn and black bean salsa, chili-lime, and chimichurri). Snack on complimentary Tequila-infused Doughnut Holes like the margarita glazed doughnut, the tequila lime doughnut, and tequila shot doughnut. Enjoy live music from David Corson starting at 6:30PM in the Great Room at CHOPPS.

3) Long known in this region for creative, farm-to-table American cuisine, The Old Inn On The Green will operate a pop-up restaurant under a classic summer tent at Jacob’s Pillow, the internationally acclaimed dance venue located in Becket, Massachusetts. The partnership with the restaurant was recently announced by Pamela Tatge, Director of Jacob’s Pillow.

The Old Inn On The Green is an 11-room inn built in the 1760s, which served as a stop on the Boston-to-Albany stagecoach route. Today, under the ownership of Peter Platt and Meredith Kennard, it boasts modern amenities for its overnight guests, and an open-to-the-public restaurant, with a deep vintage wine list and candlelit ambiance.

The Old Inn On The Green at The Pillow, as the pop-up will be called, will provide dinner and full bar service for up to 100 diners, during a 10-week season that runs from June 20 through August 26. Dinner will be served Wednesday through Saturday from 5 to 9 PM. Sunday Brunch will be served from 11 AM to 2 PM. Executive Chef is Peter Platt of The Old Inn On The Green and the Chef de Cuisine is Matthew Sweitzer.

Typical plates:
* Duck Confit Baos (steamed buns) with Pickled Lemon-Blueberry Relish
* Lettuce Wrap with Shrimp, Carrots and Corn in mint-green pea pesto
* Falafel Salad with Grilled Summer Vegetables
* Kale & Ricotta Dumplings with Corn Ragu
* Grilled Rib Eye with Onion Bordelais
* Mushroom Chicken Ballantine

Typical brunch items:
* Eggs Benedicts: Seafood, Beef, Vegetable, Smoked Salmon
* French Rolled Omelets: Ham/Artichoke, Asparagus/Chevre
* Crispy Trout Caesar
* Banana Bread Sandwich
* Baklava French Toast with honeyed apples
* Crepe Gateau with roasted fruit

Reservations are strongly suggested, and are available exclusively via www.yelpreservations.com/oldinnonthegreenatthepillow.

4) On Wednesday, March 14, at 6:30pm, Legal Sea Foods in Park Square will present an evening with their very own Master of Wine, Sandy Block, as he moonlights in hosting a four-course pairings dinner that showcases a variety of matured wines and his personal favorites dating back to 1990.

A jack of all trades, in addition to serving as Legals’ Vice President of Beverage Operations Block also shares his 30+ years of knowledge within the wine industry as a contributing editor for media outlets and an instructor at Boston University. Block will put his acclaimed Master of Wine title to the test for this exclusive dining experience for guests to enjoy a selection of grapes carefully paired with a delectable four-plus-course dinner menu.

The menu will be presented as follows:
HORS D’OEUVRES
Smoked Salmon* Napoleon, Brioche
Curry Chicken Skewer, Masala-Orange Marmalade
Spicy Lobster Arancini
Schloss Schönborn Hochheimer Domdechaney Riesling Spätlese, Rheingau,1997
FIRST COURSE
Sole Piccata (Garlic Ghee, Fragrant Jasmine Rice)
Domaine Gaston Huët “Clos du Bourg” Vouvray Demi-Sec, Loire Valley, 2007
Domaine Zind-Humbrecht “Gueberschwihr” Riesling, Alsace, 2001
SECOND COURSE
Spinach-Wrapped Salmon (Mushroom Duxelles, Lemon Beurre Blanc)
Joseph Drouhin Chambolle-Musigny Premier Cru, Burgundy, 1999
MAIN COURSE
Braised Venison Medallions (Herbed Fingerling Potatoes, Rainbow Chard)
Beringer “Private Reserve” Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, 1990
Château La Dominique, Grand Cru Classé Saint-Émilion, 2000
DESSERT
Triple Chocolate Mousse Parfait (Marshmallow, Chocolate Shavings)
Graham’s Vintage Port, 1994

COST: $135 per person, excludes tax & gratuity
Reservation required by calling 617-530-9397

5) Vialé in Central Square, Cambridge is enthused to announce the next event in their new, seasonal dinner series in collaboration with Cambridge School of Culinary Arts (CSCA). The next CSCA Takeover at Vialé will be held on Monday, February 26, from 5pm-10pm. As with all of the dinners in the series, this dinner will pair Vialé chef/co-owner, Greg Reeves (CSCA graduate) and the Vialé team with a different CSCA student/chef. For this event, Chef Reeves will team with Rasul Ussaev, from the Professional Chef's Program, and Michael Nichols, from the Professional Pastry program, serving their own unique plates alongside Vialé's usual dinner menu.

Rasul Ussaev is currently pursuing the Professional Chef’s Program. Interestingly, cooking began as a childhood chore in which he would help prepare family dinners but has since evolved into real gastronomic passion. Rasul is highly inspired by Italian, American, and Fusion culinary influences. Travelling across the globe and visiting more than 20 countries exposed Rasul to many ideas of how to serve up more than just food, but also how to create true satisfaction in every bite. In parallel to the chef’s program, he is also a senior at UMASS Boston pursuing Bachelors in Supply Chain Management.

Michael Nichols is currently pursuing the Professional Pastry Program. Michael was born and raised in Houston, Texas, at the crossroads of BBQ, Tex-Mex, Southern, and Cajun cuisines. Growing up on a steady diet of smoked briskets, tacos al carbon, chicken fried steaks, gumbos, pecan pies, pralines, and chocolates, he nevertheless trained as an engineer like his dad. Mike moved up to the northeast to work in biotech, but was always happier cooking and baking for his family. One summer on a family vacation to Peru, amidst the mountain farms and open air markets, he decided that he should do what he loved for a living. He returned home and enrolled at Cambridge School of Culinary Arts. Mike lives in Newburyport, and plans to open a chocolate shop after graduation.

Make reservations for this fascinating CSCA Takeover at Vialé.

Tuesday, February 20, 2018

2015 Windvane Pinot Noir: A Carneros Charmer

Straddling the Sonoma and Napa wine regions, the Carneros AVA is well known as a cooler climate, an excellent area for growing Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. I've long enjoyed Pinot Noirs from the Carneros region, some of my favorite Pinots of California. Thus, I was curious when I learned of a new brand from this area, Windvane, producing Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.

Windvane, part of Freixenet USA, is largely the creation of winemaker Steven Urberg, who is also the winemaker for Gloria Ferrer Caves & Vineyards (also located in the Carneros AVA). Urberg's vision for Windvane was inspired by his interest in the windiest sections of the vineyards, believing that wind greatly influenced the character of the grapes. He believes that "...the stress from intense gusts coupled with the steepest, rockiest and thinnest soils, allow for slower ripening, intense flavor development and high levels of acidity in the grapes."

I received a media sample of the 2015 Windvane Carneros Pinot Noir ($45), which is produced from 100% estate Pinot Noir from a variety of the windiest blocks in the westernmost section of their 335-acre estate. The 2015 vintage was challenging due to the weather conditions, leading to the harvest of only a small crop, but the grapes possessed "excellent concentration and intense character." Thus, only 1,300 cases of this wine were produced. The Pinot Noir was harvested at night to preserve their freshness an only free run juice was used for the wine. The wine was then aged for about nine months in French oak (46% new).

I opened the bottle to accompany a dinner of Chinese sausages (bought from J. Pace & Son in Saugus.) With a 14.5% ABV, the wine possesses a medium red color and an enticing aroma of red fruit with mild, underlying spice notes. On the palate, the complex wine presented delicious and intense flavors of red cherry and blackberry, enhanced by mild spice notes and plenty of acidity. Medium-bodied, the finish was fairly lengthy and satisfying, ending with a silky crispness. The acidity of the wine helped to balance the sweetness of the sausages, and its flavors worked well with the spices and flavors of the sausage.  

This Pinot Noir would have been excellent on its own too, though it would be a great accompaniment with many different dishes. It is an impressive wine, worth the splurge, and earns my recommendation.

Monday, February 19, 2018

Rant: Is Japanese Sake Too Cheap?

Is Japanese Sake too cheap?

That is a question recently addressed by an article in the Nikkei Asian Review and number of people in the Japanese Sake industry believe the answer is affirmative. They would like to see the price of Sake rise, priced more on a scale like wine, the price affected by elements such as the use of local, regional rice varieties. However, please note that they are largely concerned with the price of Sake within Japan, and not the prices overseas, such as in the U.S.

It is mentioned that foreign tourists visiting Japan are frequently shocked at the low prices of Sake, including even some of the higher quality Daiginjo Sakes. You can find an excellent Junmai Ginjo Sake for about 1,500 yen (roughly US$14), priced at the same level as ordinary table wine, making for a strange dichotomy. Far more time and effort, as well as higher-end ingredients, go into the production of the Sake. Why shouldn't it be priced higher then than some mass-produced wine made from lesser grapes?

A high quality Junmai Daiginjo can sell for only 5,000-6,000 yen (US$47-$56), which is comparatively a bargain compared to a similarly priced wine. In Japan, quality French wines can easily sell for 40,000-50,000 yen (US$376-$470). The price gap is quite expansive. There are some exceptions, with a newly added "Super Premium" category in Sake competition, including Sakes priced at 10,000 yen or higher.

Once Sake is exported to the U.S., the price rises, but it still remains more affordable than numerous premium wines. In the U.S., it is very uncommon to find Sake priced over $150 at a retail store, though you will find some on high-end restaurant lists. You'll find a myriad of wines priced over $150. In general, Sake is fairly priced based on production costs. Fortunately, and unlike the wine industry, critic ratings rarely boost the price of Sake. Sake possesses excellent value and you usually get your money's worth.

If the Japanese Sake industry chooses to raise their prices, that would likely raise the priced of Sake exports as well. Thus, U.S. consumers would see higher prices at their local wine shops and restaurants. I understand and empathize with the rationale for Japanese breweries to want to see higher prices for their products within Japan. As a consumer though, I'd prefer to keep Sake prices in the U.S. at their present levels. However, I would be willing to pay a moderate increase if it would help the Japanese Sake industry.

When compared to wine, Sake is relatively inexpensive, and a price increase would simply move Sake closer to wine prices. We are discussing primarily premium Sake, the top 25% of production, and not futsu-shu, the often mass produced, lower quality Sake. Sake is a wonderfully diverse and delicious alcoholic beverage, one of complexity and quality. Production can be quite laborious and time-consuming, especially if production is more old-style in nature. The ingredients are high-quality,  from the water to the rice. Consumers should be willing to pay a fair price for a bottle of quality Sake, even if the price must be raised a bit.