Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I am back again with a new edition of Thursday Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting, upcoming food & drink events.
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1) Chef/Owner Will Gilson and the Puritan & Co. team invite guests to enjoy the flavors of the season at Puritan’s upcoming Harvest Dinner. On Wednesday, November 14th, from 7pm-10pm, Puritan & Co. will be hosting its sixth annual Harvest Dinner highlighting the best flavors the season has to offer! Tickets to the communal-style dinner include a multi-course meal of Puritan & Company’s signature seasonal New England fare, wine pairing, and gratuity.

The menu will feature:
Hors d’oeuvres
Clothbound cheddar stuffed kielbasa with mustard & apples
Potato mille fueille with smoked salmon, crème fraiche & chives
Taleggio, apple & truffle grilled cheese
Root vegetable crudites
Wine pairing: NV Le Colture Prosecco di Valdobbiadene Brut “Fagher” Veneto, Italy
First course
Duck confit with glazed carrots, swiss chard, hen of the woods, mustard cream
Wine pairing: Gamay ’17 Domaine de Vissoux Beaujolais Rosé “Les Griottes” France
Second course
Roasted pumpkin veloute with bay scallops, maple crème fraiche, spiced pepitas
Wine pairing: Riesling ’09 Geschwister Simon Ayler Kupp Auslese Mosel, Germany
Third course
Baked cod with macomber turnip, speck, alliums, kale
Wine pairing: Verdejo ’15 Menade “Nosso” Castilla y León, Spain
Fourth course
American lamb loin with parsley crust, sweet potato, brussels, rosemary jus
Wine pairing: Grenache | syrah ’16 Domaine de Beaurenard Rasteau Southern Rhône, France
Dessert
Pecan pie with roasted apples, bourbon caramel, cinnamon ice cream
Wine pairing: Sauvignon blanc ’13 Bodkin Wines Late Harvest Dry Creek Valley, California

Tickets cost $105 and can be purchased at: https://www.eventbrite.com/e/harvest-dinner-tickets-51597949857

2) Once a year, cheese enthusiasts have the chance to sample dozens of cheeses – all made from Massachusetts milk – at a grand indoor tasting called The Massachusetts Cheese Festival. This year the festival takes place at The Armory, 191 Highland Avenue, Somerville on Saturday, November 3, and tickets are available for $40 ($10 for kids) online at macheesefest.org. The festival offers two potential sessions: from 10:30 a.m. til 1:00 p.m., and again between 1:30 p.m. and 4:00 p.m.

--Sample and perhaps purchase dozens of different cheeses from 14 artisan cheesemakers whose operations are located throughout the Commonwealth
--Meet and chat face to face with award-winning cheesemakers
--Enjoy cheese pairings with a wide variety of other local artisan products like breads, jams, honeys, fruits, candy and charcuterie
--Taste wine and hard cider from top New England beverage makers
--Learn about the craft of cheesemaking, and the stories behind the cheeses, by dropping in on a free class conducted by cheese experts

The festival is made possible by The Massachusetts Cheese Guild, and by primary sponsor Seacrest Foods, along with The Luke Group, The Cheese Shop of Concord, Mill City Cheesemongers of Lowell, Shubie’s Marketplace of Marblehead, Westfield Farm, and Paul W. Marks and Company.

The Massachusetts Cheese Guild encourages and supports the production of great cheeses and cultured dairy products such as yogurt, all made from Massachusetts milk. The Massachusetts Cheese Guild is made up of Artisan Cheesemakers, cheese Enthusiasts, and members of the Trade: cheesemongers, retailers, wholesalers, distributors, journalists, chefs…anyone and any company that loves MA cheeses. Enthusiast memberships to the Guild will be available that day for a cost of $25 per year.

3) The Filipino Festival in Malden presents "Holiday Handaan," a Filipino style pop-up dinner by Jules' Kitchen. A perfect start to the Christmas season, with live music and wonderful sharing about Christmas in the Philippines. This will be held on December 1at the Malden Senior Center Cafeteria, located at 7 Washington St. from 5:00PM to 7:00PM.

The ultimate Christmas feast or "handaan" in the Philippines is called Noche Buena. Warm conversations, filled with love and laughter surround this meaningful meal as loved ones celebrate, reminisce, and have fun.

The Menu is as follows:
Appetizer: Tinapang Tahong, Lumpiang Sariwa with Peanut Sauce, Hot Pandesal at Kesong Puti (Smoked Mussels, Fresh Spring Roll with Peanut Sauce, Hot Bread Roll and Philippine White Cheese)
Soup: Cansi - Ilonggo Soup (Beef Shank with Jackfruit and Potato in Chili-Tamarind Broth)
Intermezzo: Avocado-Calamansi Sorbet
Main Courses:
Squid Ink Risotto, Inihaw na Pusit, Ulang, Kapis at Aligue ( Squid Ink Risotto, Grilled Squid, Lobster and Scallops with Aligue)
Papaya Topped with Sugar and Drizzled with Lemon Juice
Spaghetti Carbonara with Pork Belly Hamonado
Dessert (Trio): Puto Bumbong, Ensaymada and Tsokolate De Batirol (Purple Rice Cake, Philippine Brioche and Hot Chocolate Made from Tablea)

There is a fee of $75 per person for a 9-course scrumptious and festive meal. You may purchase your ticket at Eventbrite

2016 Alto do Joa Tinto: 20 Grapes, Old Vines, & Amazing Value

As I've often said, you can find some amazing value wines in Portugal and during my recent trip to Portugal, the 2016 Alto do Joa Tinto (12 Euros) was one of my top discoveries.

During a snack break at a museum, we enjoyed some chestnut-based sweets and were served this wine, which is produced by Casa do Joa. The winery is located in a tiny village, Parada de Infanções, which only has about three hundred people and is situated only a few kilometers from Bragança. It is a tight-knit community and it is said that the "..wine does not belong to one person, but to a community of passionate villagers."

This wine is a field blend of 20 grapes, including Alvarelhão, Bastardo, Chasselas Suíça, Cornifesto, Dona Branca, Folgasão, Formosa, Jaen, Mourisco, and Tinta Amarela. The ungrafted vines are also over 120 years old, located at an altitude of about 700 meters. They co-ferment the best grapes, using a foot-treading wine press, and then age the wine for about two years in used French oak barrels. Bottled as a Vinho Regional Transmontano, it only has a 12.5% ABV, and I was told the bottle alone costs the winery 2 Euros.

With a dark red color, and an alluring nose, I was captivated by this wine from my first taste. It was elegant and silky smooth, with well-integrated tannins, good acidity, and a touch of rusticness. Its complex melange of flavors included ripe plum, black cherry, fig, dark spices, and a subtle earthiness.  A long and lingering finish that tantalized and satisfied. All of that for only about 12 Euros! It over delivers for the price and was pure pleasure on the palate. I could have sat for the rest of the afternoon just sipping this wine, reveling in its complexities. My highest recommendation. Unfortunately, I don't think this wine is available in the U.S.

Caves da Murganheira: Blue Granite Caves & Sparkling Wines

If you love Sparkling Wine, if Bubbly excites your palate, then you need to seek out Caves da Murganheira, a producer of Espumante, compelling Portuguese Sparkling Wine. Until my recent trip to Portugal, I was unfamiliar with this winery and now I hope to find their wines in the U.S.

Murganheira is located in the Varosa Valley, in the Távora-Varosa DOP, at the northwestern section of the Beiras region and bordering the Douro. The Távora-Varosa DOP is an excellent region for grapes that will produce sparkling wines and it actually was the first Portuguese region, in 1989, to be demarcated for sparkling wines. It is certainly a beautiful region, with plenty of lush vegetation, hills, and stunning landscapes.

The winery was established in 1964 by Acácio da Fonseca Laranjo, who chose to name the winery after the village, Murganheira, where he grew up. This village is located only a short distance from the current site of the winery. Initially, the winery made only sparkling wine but in the 1970s, they expanded production to include still wines as well. Upon his death, his family sold the winery to several men, including oenologist Orlando Lourenço.

Currently, Murganheira owns 30 hectares of vineyards and supervises over 1,000 hectares from which they purchase grapes. Some of the grapes they grow and purchase include Malvasia Fino, Gouveio Real, Cerceal, Chardonnay, Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Tinga Roriz, and Pinot Noir. What helps to separate this region from the Douro is their soil type which is granite rather than the schist of the Douro. This year, their harvest ran from September 2 to October 2, and it was a challenging vintage with plenty of rain and hail during the Spring.

Their press room is only used for one month of the year, during the harvest, and they possess three pneumatic presses. The first pressing produces the juice for their top wines and Brut Espumante. The juice from the second pressing usually goes to produce their half-dry and sweet wines. 95% of their production is Sparkling Wine and only 5% are Still Wines. Their Sparkling Wine is produced by the Méthode Traditionelle, the same method used to make Champagne, where secondary fermentation occurs in the bottle.

The annual production at Murganheira is approximately 1 million bottles per year, only about 83,000 cases. Besides 750ml and Magnums, they also produce 3, 6 and 9 liter bottles. They export about 20% of production, and their export markets include Russia and the U.S. Of their Sparkling Wines, three are non-dosage wines, and they also use French oak for the aging of some of their wines.

One of the most stunning aspects of my visit to Murganheira was seeing their blue granite "caves," the cellars where they age their wines. The huge stacks of bottles amidst the dark granite walls made for an impressive vision. The original owner, Acácio, with advice from a man from the Champagne region, created the caves over a span of years, dynamiting into the blue granite. The caves remain at a year-round, constant temperature of about 54 degrees Fahrenheit. These voluminous caves store about three million bottles of wine, the oldest reaching back to 1991. Their Sparkling Wines usually spend at least 3 years and 8 months in these caves before release. Plus, aesthetically, the caves and all of those bottles are compelling.

The first Sparkling Wine we tasted was the 2009 Murganheira Millesime Bruto Espumante (16-17 Euros), a blend of 50% Chardonnay and 50% Pinot Noir. With a fine golden color and plenty of tiny bubbles, the aroma was subtle with hints of apple and vanilla. On the palate, it was crisp and dry, with a pleasing mousse, and fine green apple flavors, a hint of toast, and a savoriness on the finish. A satisfying complexity, a lengthy finish, and just plain delicious. A good value wine based on its quality and complexity.

I was especially taken by the 2009 Murganheira Touriga Nacional Bruto Blanc de Noirs Espumante (13-14 Euros), which is made from 100% Touriga Nacional. Almost a Rosé in color, and with tiny bubbles, there were mild red fruit notes on the aroma. As soon as I tasted a sip, bright berry flavors burst on my tongue, such a pleasurable taste and sensation. Dry and crisp, once I got past the berries, there were subtle notes of almond and plum, as well as a lingering finish. If I could have easily transported it home, I would have bought a case of this bubbly. Highly recommended, especially at this price.

The 2013 Murganheira Tinto Bruto (8.5 Euros) is a blend of Touriga Nacional and Tinta Roriz. It had a dark, almost purple color, with a pleasing aroma of black fruit with a hint of spice. On the palate, it was dry, with good acidity, rich black fruit flavors, subtle spice notes, and a moderately long finish. Not as complex as the others but more an easy drinking sparkling wine.

I decided to purchase a bottle of the 2013 Czar Grand Cuvee Rosé ($22 Euros), even though I didn't get a chance to taste it. First, I love Sparkling Rosé so I was intrigued to taste their version. Second, after experiencing the quality and deliciousness of their other Sparkling Wines, I felt secure that they would produce an excellent Sparkling Rosé too. The wine is made from 100% Pinot Noir, has a 14% ABV. and acquired its name Czar, as a recognition of their exports to Russia.

Over this past weekend, I opened this bottle for a celebration, and wish I'd bought more of it. With a deep and bright pink color, this Sparkling Rosé was crisp, dry and complex, with fresh red fruit flavors and a more savory, almost slightly bitter, finish. It was a wine to slowly sip, enjoying the subtle new flavors you found with each taste. A high quality Sparkling Wine, this also receives my hearty recommendation.

Murganheira is producing quality Sparkling Wines and I strongly recommend that you seek them out and enjoy some Portuguese bubbly. Locally, I rarely see Portuguese Sparkling Wine and I hope that will change soon. The Murganheira Touriga Nacional Bruto was more unique and the Sparkling Rosé  was killer. And if you visit Portugal, you should make try to visit Caves da Murganheira.

Douro Palace Hotel: The Creativity Of Eça Restaurant

A stunning view of the Douro River from my room's balcony at the Douro Palace Hotel Resort & Spa, one of the hotels I stayed in during my recent trip to Portugal. The next four photos were also taken from my balcony.

This 4 Star hotel is located in Quinta de São João, in Santa Cruz do Douro, Baião, only a few from the Aregos Train Station, where you can travel the course of the Douro River. We would later take this train to Régua, catching some beautiful views of the Douro region.

The hotel has 60 rooms, all with balconies providing a view of the Douro River. The hotel also has an outdoor pool, spa, three bars, and a restaurant.

One evening, we dined at the hotel's restaurant, Eça Restaurante, an eighty-seat spot that uses regional products and traditional flavors with a modern cuisine. It was one of the most memorable of our dinners, the cuisine being both delicious and creative, and presented in such a fun way.

One of our servers spoke about each course as it was being presented, speaking in a theatrical voice, almost as if we were at a Broadway play, introducing each new Act. It added a fun element to the evening, and we eagerly anticipated what would be said about each new dish.

We also began the evening with a glass of Raposeiro Blanc de Blancs Bruto Sparkling Wine, which was crisp, dry, fruity and with a touch of toast. It was a nice pairing with the first three small plates that were served.

The written menu for our dinner was rather terse, making the dishes sound relatively simple and plain, but that was far from the case. As soon as the first dish was presented to us, I understood that this would be far from an ordinary dinner, that the chef was more of an artist.

The first dish was Octopus Rice, thin slices of tender octopus atop a light, crispy rice cracker, presenting a nice contrast of textures. A tasty and light flavor of the sea. And beneath the octopus and rice cracker was a sheet that stated "Welcome," a greeting from the chef.

Next up was My Chicken Piri-Piri, a moist, tender and flavorful piece of chicken with a lightly spicy sauce, accompanied by a crisp, fried potato. The chicken was cooked perfectly, and the entire dish was well balanced and enticing. An elevated rustic dish.

The next dish, Veal Stuffed with Mustard, resembled a Chinese bao, a steamed bun. The soft bun contained a couple thinly sliced pickles, a hint of mustard, and a tender slice of veal. The meaty veal was the star of this sandwich, enhanced by the other ingredients. A taste of Portugal with a nod to China.

Our Starter was then a dish of Lucius, wrapped in vine leaves, with asparagus and topped with a meat sauce. Lucius is more commonly known as the Northern Pike, a freshwater fish that is more commonly consumed in Europe than the U.S. This dish was a favorite of many of us, the pike possessing a firm texture, closer to monkfish than cod. It had a mild, almost sweetish flavor, with a type of savoriness from the light sauce. Quite intriguing and now I want to find pike locally.

Our Main Course was a Veal Leg with potatoes and peas, another excellent dish, with tender and savory veal, creamy potatoes and sweet peas. A fine piece of meat, and a fine end to our savory dishes.

Dessert was also creative, an Almond Cartuxos, with egg custard, cream and a Maria wafer. It resembled a ice cream cone, though it didn't have any ice cream. A pleasing blend of textures and flavors, crunchy and creamy, sweet and a touch of savory. With dessert, we had a glass of Recua 10 Year Old Port, a delicious, silky smooth and well balanced Port.

Eça Restaurant is worthy of my top recommendation, as is the Douro Palace Hotel. When you're traveling in the Douro region, please keep these places in mind.

Matosinhos, Leixões & O Gaveto Restaurant (Seafood Rice!)

According to Matosinhos World's Best Fish, the coastal city of Matosinhos, bordering Porto, is "Europe's largest cluster of restaurants per square meter" with approximately 600 restaurants. And as expected, the majority of those restaurants serve fresh seafood, which the city claims to be the best in the entire world. On my recent journey to Portugal, I was fortunate to dine at one of the top seafood restaurants in the city.

Matosinhos was founded at the mouth of the river Leça and there are references to a settlement in this area at least as far back as the 11th century, though the Romans were known to have used the river for transport. It wasn't until the 19th century that it became an official town and it wasn't until 1984 that it was granted city status. It was also at the end of the 19th century that the Port of Leixões was established. Matosinhos remains an important fishing port though the city's economy has diversified, including becoming a stopping point for cruise ships.

As part of our trip, we also visited the Leixões Cruise Terminal, which opened three years ago, and is both an architectural wonder as well as compelling for its dedication to marine sustainability. This terminal is able to handle the largest of cruise ships, bringing more tourism to the city, and that is but only one of its important purposes.

It is a stunning building, with an intriguing modern look, almost a ribbon of tiles wrapping around the  building.

Looking up at the roof from inside the terminal.

Inside the building, there is also an entry to one of the doors which resembles the mouth of a whale. I knew immediately what it symbolized and thought it was quite clever.

I was amazed that an entire floor of the cruise terminal was dedicated to research labs concerning various issues of marine sustainability. As a proponent of seafood sustainability, I was impressed that this terminal was dedicated to more than simply tourism. It also addresses vital oceanic issues and stands as a shining example for others. The multi-purpose nature of the terminal is compelling.

Another level of the cruise terminal is set aside for event functions, which can accommodate hundreds of people.

From the terminal, you can see the beaches of Matosinhos.

You can even see a famous sculpture, She Changes, a huge fishermen's net created by Janet Echelman, an American artist. It has been nicknamed Anemona, meaning the sea creature "anemone."

The biggest highlight of our visit to Martosinhos was our seafood lunch at O Gaveto, a famed restaurant which was established back in 1984. They serve traditional Portuguese cuisine, specializing in fresh fish and seafood, and are open for lunch and dinner seven days a week. All of their main ingredients are locally sourced, and they prefer to cook using few ingredients so they can highlight the taste of the seafood. The restaurant was even recommended in the latest issue of Wine Spectator (11/15/2018), one of only four restaurants in the Porto area earning a mention,

The restaurant is owned by Manuel Pinheiro (pictured above), who also owns the Porto Coliseum Hotel, and he dined with us at lunch. In addition, Manuel is the founder of the Confraria Gastronómica das Tripas à Moda do Porto, basically a Brotherhood of Tripe, as well as the Confraria Gastronómica do Mar, a Brotherhood of the Sea. Tripe is a popular dish in Portugal, and has been for hundreds of years. And with Manuel's passion for seafood, the Brotherhood of the Sea seems quite natural.

In the front section of the restaurant, near the bar area, there were various fish tanks and displays of seafood, from Atlantic Lobsters to Crabs.

This is a page of their menu, including Soups, Appetizers, Fish and Meat dishes. Try items such as Shellfish Soup, Grilled Grouper, Monkfish Rice or even a Fried Steak "Gaveto style."

And this page of the menu includes a list of their Seafood options, from Goose Barnacle to Grilled King Prawns, from Stuffed Spider Crab to Shrimp Omelet.

With dinner, we enjoyed some Vinho Verde wine, which was crisp, dry, fruity and refreshing, a fine pairing for all of the seafood which we would enjoy at lunch.

Our lunch began with a series of starters, including this Crab Pâté with toast. Filled with plenty of sweet crab, the pâté was creamy and flavorful.

The Grilled Razor Clams were some of the plumpest such clams I've ever eaten, and they possessed a delicious texture and taste, with that hint of the sea. Simply prepared, the quality of the clams shone through this dish.

These Local Shrimp, though small, each contained a small piece of sweet and tasty meat. The soft shells were easy to remove and uncover the tender meat within.

The Clams in this broth were also small and tender, and the flavorful broth was perfect for dipping a crusty bread. These dishes succeed or fail dependent on the taste of the broth and this dish was a winner. The broth was light and well seasoned, with possibly a touch of wine.

Our entree was the Seafood Rice and it was amazing! The sauce/broth was complex, with an excellent depth of flavor, a rich seafood taste, as well as some spicy heat. The rice was cooked perfectly, with just the right texture to it, and there was plenty of seafood, including shrimp, lobster, crab, and clams. A hearty comfort food, it earns my highest recommendation. I'll admit to eating three portions of this dish, though most everyone else at our table had at least two portions, if not more. This was one of the best dishes I enjoyed during my trip to Portugal.

If you travel to or near Porto, then I strongly suggest you visit Matosinhos, to seek out some compelling seafood. And you won't go wrong by dining at O Gaveto. The Seafood Rice is a great choice though I suspect you can't go wrong with any of their seafood dishes. With over 1100 miles of coastline, Portugal certainly thrives on seafood and you should enjoy their fresh bounty if you travel there.