Rant: Let's Reconsider Australian Wine

"Global demand for Australian wine has fallen substantially since exports peaked in 2007;..."
--Market Watch (January/February 2019)

As I previously mentioned, I resolved this year to taste more Australian wines, to assess the diversity and quality that is now being produced in that country. I've recently tasted some excellent examples of Australian wines, such as the 2014 Shirvington Cabernet Sauvignon, which only had a 13% ABV. I certainly understand the reasons behind the decline in the popularity of Australian wines, but maybe it is now time to reconsider, to return to Australian wines and find new reasons to love their wines.

The recent issue of Market Watch (January/February 2019) published an intriguing article about the current status of Australian wines, noting the problems Australian wine has faced. "..., Australian wine exports were down 11% to 17.7 million cases in the fiscal year ended June 2018,..." However, they also noted that there have been some positive changes in recent years. For example, "In the calendar year ended November 4, 2018, Australia posted gains at the luxury ($20-$25 a 750ml) and super-luxury ($25-and-above) tiers,...growing 16.1% to 7.8 million cases and 15.4% to 3.1 millions cases in the U.S.,..." In addition, "The number of Australian wineries present in the U.S. has also risen in recent years, pushing to nearly 300 in 2018 after sinking to 234 just two years prior."

In 2017, close to 70% of Australian wine imports, about 11,714,000 cases, were encompassed by only ten wine brands. The top three Australian wine brands include Yellow Tail (7,350,000 cases but down 6.3% from 2016), Lindemans (1,332,000 cases but down 13.2% from 2016), and 19 Crimes (1,056,000 cases, which has about doubled since 2016). At the wine shop where I work, I see the huge popularity of Yellow Tail, and recently 19 Crimes has also been popular. It would be good if people could look past just these top ten brands and started exploring the greater diversity that Australia has to offer.

The Market Watch article noted ".., there's a lingering stagnation for the category at the retail end." Consumer education is needed, to make them cognizant in the changes in the Australian wine industry. Australian Shiraz was once vastly popular though they often showcased "...high-abv expressions of the grape that burst with bold, ripe flavors," also known as "fruit bombs." There was a backlash against these Australian fruit bombs, and I'll admit they turned me off from wanting to drink Australian wines.

However, changes have been made in Australia. For example, a number of wineries now highlight different expressions of Shiraz, presenting more diversity in the flavor profile of their wines. You can find plenty of Shiraz wines that are not fruit bombs. There has also been a move to highlight other regions of Australia, areas which have received little attention in previous years. These regions produce different wine styles, due to their different terroirs. In addition, wineries are using a wider array of grapes, from Chardonnay to Vermentino, Pinot Noir to Grenache.

There are plenty of reasons to reconsider Australian wine and now is the time to explore their wines. Broaden your vinous horizons, exploring different regions of Australia, different grapes and different expressions of Shiraz. I'll be continuing my own explorations of their wines and encourage all of my readers to join me on this journey.

The Mind Of A Sommelier: Bruno Marini

(Check out my Introduction to the The Mind of a Sommelier series.)

Bruno Marini is the Director of Food and Beverage at Chopps American Bar and Grill, located at the Burlington Marriott. I've previously given raves to Chopps and it was one of my Top 50 Restaurants of 2018. I believe it is under-appreciated, worthy of far more attention than it receives. I've had the pleasure of meeting Bruno on multiple occasions at Chopps, including at some of their excellent wine dinners. If you've never been to Chopps, it is time for you to check it out.

Bruno Marini graduated from Johnson & Wales University in 1991, and gained experience working at famed restaurants Biba and Pignoli. In 1997,  he stepped into his first General Manager position at the high-end fusion-style eatery, Ambrosia, where he oversaw the restaurant’s growth and development alongside their celebrated chef and owner, Anthony Ambrose. In 2000, Marini assumed the role of General Manager at The Federalist, a French restaurant with an esteemed wine program, which encompassed an impressive collection of more than 32,000 bottles and 2,700 selections of fine and rare wines. In 2015, Marni joined the team at Chopps American Bar and Grill and currently serves at the Director of Food and Beverage of Pyramid Hotel Group Boston.

Now, onto the Interview:

What term do you use to describe yourself: Sommelier, Wine Steward, Wine Director, something else?
I prefer Wino, but Wine Director would be appropriate.

Please give a brief description of the wine list at your restaurant.
We have over 375 selections of wine – well-balanced selections of full and half bottles representing California, Italy, Pacific North West and a sprinkle of French, New Zealand, Australia and Argentina.

What are your objectives with the wine list?
To cater to our guests. It’s not about what I like to drink, it’s about what the guests are looking for and offering them a quality list at a solid value.

How often does the wine list change?
We maintain a consistent list. We update vintages on a regular basis and revise the wines by the glass 2-3 times a year.

Are there omissions on your wine list you would like to fill?
We try to keep our placements reflective of items that sell, but we are always looking for new additions from our guests’ recommendations.

How do you learn about new wines?
Well, I’m not a wine geek so I don’t go to tastings or belong to wine clubs, but I meet with my wine vendors on a regular basis to see what’s new in the market. I am also very fortunate to have close relationships with winemakers and owners, so I love to get the inside scoop on new releases or trends.

What is your strategy on pricing the wines on your list?
Be fair, competitive, offer deals and don’t be obnoxious when possible. I review wine lists in the area and try to stay at least 12-18% cheaper. Wine lists are usually marked up 2.7-3.2 times the cost of wine and you will find that there are some great deals on our list.

What is the most common wine question asked by your guests?
“Will this go with what I am eating” or better yet, “Will I like it?”

What is the most common criticism you receive from guests about your list?
I’d say if there is one thing, it would be not having a very specific wine that someone visiting is looking for. We try to maintain a very friendly wine list, this means there is wine that has name recognitions and hits all price points.

What is your greatest challenge as a sommelier?
Consistently educating staff about new wines, changing trends, and what to offer guests for the best dining experience. 

Tell me about 1 or 2 of the most unique wines on your list?
A rock star Sonoma wine maker is Clay Mauritson. He is young and an innovator. He is known for his Zin from Rock Pile but makes a series of Single Soil Cabs called Loam, Positas and Suther. Also, any wine from Realm is super unique.

Tell me about 1 or 2 of your favorite wines on your list?
Wow! Tough one, but I really enjoy wines from Gaja-Italian and Kelleher Family-Napa.

Is there anything else you would like people to know about your wine list, your work as a sommelier, or wine service? 
I am proud to have created & managed the 1st Grand Award-Winning Wine list in Boston for 5 years straight. At the time only 83 restaurants in the world had the award given by Wine Spectator. Now, Grill 23 & Bar has that award and I could not be prouder for them. I was also fortunate to make, bottle and sell my own wine with legendary wine maker Su Ha Newton of Newton Vineyards in Napa. Our current wine list is friendly, extensive, familiar and reasonably priced and I hope our guests enjoy the selections.

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I am back again with a new edition of Thursday Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting, upcoming food & drink events.
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1) Join Harvest on Sunday, February 24, from 6pm-9pm, on their heated patio to dance, drink and eat at the 4th Annual Winter Ice Party. DJ Ryan Brown will play top hits while guests sip on frosty Harpoons and wintry ice luge drinks made with Maker’s Mark. Executive Chef Tyler Kinnett is serving up an array of fresh New England cuisine and party favorite bites including bacon wrapped scallops, arancini (goat cheese, parmesan, basil and marinara), Calypso Chicken (jerk spice, molasses, cilantro, scallions), Oysters (Island Creek Oysters & Mookie Blue Oysters), and homemade pretzels. Top off the evening with sweets from an exclusive dessert bar specially prepared by Food Network’s Holiday Baking Championship finalist and Executive Pastry Chef Joshua Livsey. Satisfy your sweet tooth with French macaroons, doughnuts, tiramisu, and flan.

Harvest is joining forces again with Furnishing Hope of Massachusetts whose mission is to help families who are transitioning out of homelessness create a home for themselves. A portion of proceeds from ticket sales will go towards providing families with basic furniture and household goods necessary to create a comfortable and nurturing environment.

Price is $55 per person. Space is limited and reservations are required. Visit https://www.eventbrite.com/e/4th-annual-harvest-ice-party-tickets-54382704132 to purchase tickets.

2) On Thursday, February 14, from 4pm-11pm, il Molo, in the North End, will be celebrating Valentine’s Day with three courses of romance inspired by the Mediterranean and New England coasts. A loving creation of the restaurant’s Executive Chef Pino Maffeo, the prix fixe menu was made with your sweetheart’s cravings in mind, featuring a variety of creative seafood, meat and pasta dishes.

Appetizers include Local Oysters, Smoked Salmon Carpaccio, Lobster & Crab Cake, Shrimp & Lobster Tempura, Burrata Salad, Fried Calamari, Strawberry Salad and Classic Shrimp Cocktail which will lead the way for a heavenly Main- Course: choose from: Miso & Champagne Glazed Salmon served with roasted Brussels sprouts, Pan-Seared Cod Loin with chards, chorizo, clams and beans, Grilled Filet Mignon served with Sautéed Spinach, Baked Stuffed Maine Lobster (+$15), Stuffed Veal Chop with spinach, garlic, prosciutto and burrata, served with broccoli rabe and beans (+$15), New England Seafood Stew served over risotto, a Fresh Daily Pasta, Duck Milanese with roasted hazelnuts and orange. End your meal on a sweet note with a decadent homemade Dessert such as Coconut Cake, Carrot Cake, Chocolate Cake or Raspberry & Chocolate Tiramisu.

COST: $70 per person, excluding gratuity & taxes. Reservations are required, so please call (857) 277-1895. Credit card will be required to hold any reservations.

3) Matadora, a Spanish restaurant located in the Hilton Boston/Woburn, has a new Executive Chef, Stephen Coe. “We are thrilled to welcome Stephen to the great team at Matadora. Along with his incredible culinary talent, he brings an energy and excitement that will appeal to our dinner and hotel guests as well as our local community,” remarked Mike Chouri, general manager, Hilton Boston/Woburn.

Massachusetts native Stephen Coe is a graduate of both Johnson & Wales University (Culinary Arts) and the Institute Francais des Alpes in Annecy, France (French Food & Language). Following culinary school, Chef Coe took on a diverse array of roles that ranged from chef positions at Greater Boston’s BOKX 109 American Prime steakhouse to Topper’s at The Wauwinet (Nantucket), The Country Club (Brookline), The Martini House (Napa Valley) and most recently, as opening chef of Mirbeau Inn & Spa at The Pinehills.

He is also a passionate food truck owner, operator and consultant. His food truck, SWAT Culinary Assault Vehicle, is fashioned from a SWAT truck he picked up at auction and serves indulgent eats with high-impact flavor. In addition to his food truck, Chef Coe has consulted for Food Truck Nation and helped concept other trucks including Lobsta Love and Grilled Cheese Nation. Competitive by nature and never one to shy away from a challenge, Chef Coe has cooked on more than 100 stages worldwide and emerged victorious from multiple Food Network shows, including Chopped’s “Ultimate Redemption Challenge” and “Grill Masters” as well as Tyler Florence’s Recipe Contest. His lengthy list of accolades also includes titles at World Food Championships, World Bacon Championship, American Culinary Foundation’s Boston Chef of the Year and more.

From February 14-17, Chef Coe has created a new menu for celebrating Valentine's Day. You'll find choices including Corn & Crab Bisque, Pear & Marscapone Sacchetti, Alaskan King Crab Leg, Crispy Duck Naranja, Rack of Lamb, and a Rib-Eye Tasting.

To make a Reservation, please call 781-904-0658

2014 Shirvington Cabernet Sauvignon: A Compelling Australian Wine

One of my goals this year is to taste more Australian wines, to give them reconsideration and see whether they have changed during recent years. As I mentioned before, I have drank very few Australian wines in the last few years, having been turned off by the large amount of jammy fruit bombs that country seemed to produce for a time. I didn't want a sledgehammer of wine to assault my palate, but I rather desired wines with more subtlety and complexity. And I'm starting to realize that those jammy fruit bombs may not seem to be the norm any longer.

The Shirvington Winery, which is located in Willunga, just south of McLaren Vale, was founded in 1996 by Paul and Lynne Shirvington, with their sons Tony and Mark. Their first vineyard, about 16 hectares, was named Redwind, and they began by planting Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon, though it now includes Mataro (aka Mourvedre) too. The Redwind vineyard is at an elevation of about 50 meters, has red clay and limestone soil, and has a Mediterranean climate with maritime influences. They later purchased two additional vineyards, Kurrawyba (in McLaren Flat) and Manjalda (in McLaren Vale). All of their vineyards are sustainably farmed.

I received a media sample of their 2014 Shirvington Cabernet Sauvignon ($58.99), which is produced from 100% Cabernet Sauvignon, which was barrel fermented and then aged for 19 months in 100% French oak (33% new, 11% 1 year old, & 56% 2 year old). I was especially pleased to note that this wine only had a 13% ABV, indicative to me that this wine was unlikely a jammy fruit bomb. I also chose to pair this wine with Filet Mignon, figuring that it would work well with a nice piece of steak.

With a dark red, almost plummy color, the wine had an appealing nose of red fruits with subtle spice notes. On the palate, there was an initial taste of bright red fruits, cherry and raspberry, and on the finish it transformed so there were more black fruit, plum and black cherry, flavors. Throughout the complex palate, there were subtle spice notes, restrained tannins, and a hint of sweetness. It was a more elegant wine, with a lengthy, satisfying finish, and it was a delightful companion to the Filets. This Cabernet had more in common with European wines than California ones. Simply delicious and it earns a hearty recommendation.

Another win for Australian wines. And I have more reviews coming in the near future.

Rant: The Value of Refugees & Immigrants

(Four years ago, I posted this Rant, during a time when the fate of Syrian refugees was front and center. Considering recent events and the significance of these issues at this time, I feel it is vital to bring back this Rant due to its applicability in the current crisis. I've slightly revised it from its original form to be more relevant to the immediate issues.)

The fate of refugees and immigrants are significant issues right now, with plenty of heated rhetoric and arguments. Fear is at the heart of much of the discussion and though the general threat of terrorism is real, the actual risks from these refugees and immigrants is much much less than the doomsayers proclaim. The basic humanity of these refugees and immigrants needs to factor far greater into these discussions, and compassion needs to be a prominent value.

America owes a huge debt to the refugees and immigrants which have come to our country over the centuries. They bring a diversity to our country which only benefits us all. Our country would not be as great as it is without the diversity that such people bring. And the important benefits they bring outweigh the small risk that is entailed. We cannot become insular, shutting our borders to these people.

Yes, there may be some bad apples in the bunch but there are bad apples everywhere, including people who have lived in this country their entire lives. We have to understand that these bad apples are a tiny exception and far from the rule. Those bad apples do not reflect the general mentality and behavior of the greatest majority of refugees and immigrants. We already have vetting procedures to help minimize those risks.

Let's consider but one area where America owes a huge debt to refugees and immigrants: our culinary scene. There are plenty of other significant areas that can be discussed but I just want to concentrate on this one area for now.

First, most restaurant kitchens, all across the country, couldn't operate without the refugees and immigrants who perform some of the most basic, and still very important, duties, from dish washing to prep work. They commonly work behind the scenes, unseen by the restaurant diners who might only may know the main chef. As they work unseen, too many people fail to understand their vital role and their importance to what ends up on your plate.

I've talked to a number of chefs who have been immensely grateful for these workers. Few others have been willing to do such jobs, from dish washing to basic prep work. Without these refugees and immigrants, it would be difficult to find others willing to do these duties. In addition, the chefs uniformly state that they are some of the hardest working people they know. For a significant number of these refugees and immigrants, they work multiple jobs, maybe in a couple different kitchens. These people contribute significantly to the community.

Second, these refugees and immigrants bring to the U.S. their home cuisines, including different ingredients, recipes and techniques. They have created a greater diversity in our culinary scene, opening diners up to so many new and different foods. Consider Boston and its neighboring communities and try to count the numerous cuisines from different countries which are represented, which wouldn't exist except for the influx of refugees and immigrants to our country. Ethiopia, Lebanon, Mexico, El Salvador, Senegal, Afghanistan, Vietnam and so much more.

In addition, other chefs have adopted the ingredients, recipes and techniques of these refugees and immigrants. Their culinary heritage has spread across the country, becoming firmly ingrained in our society. Without their contributions, our culinary world would be boring and plain. We revel in culinary diversity but need to understand and appreciate the myriad contributions of those refugees and immigrants.

Third, the presence of refugees and immigrants in restaurant kitchens, plus the spread of their cuisines, helps to make our communities more diverse, and more tolerant of differences. When people are exposed to more diversity, they become more worldly, and can better understand that despite out differences, we share many similarities too. We don't need a 50th burger joint in the area, but we certainly could use more restaurants from places like Guatemala, Armenia, Uruguay, Georgia, Nepal, and more.

Rather than worrying so much about the greatly exaggerated risks of refugees and immigrants, let us devote much more consideration to all the positive contributions they can make to our country. Let us embrace our humanity and compassion, and stand up for these refugees and immigrants.