Friday, March 1, 2019

The Mind Of A Sommelier: Jose Luis Betancur

(Check out my Introduction to the The Mind of a Sommelier series.)

Jose Luis Betancur is a Chilean native who immigrated to the United States at age 27 where he began working in the hospitality industry in Boston. When he relocated to New York City, he worked for the TAO Group where he was inspired by their commitment to hospitality. It was during his time working for TAO Group that he took a great interest in wine and spirits. Luis went on to take a program of wine studies at the Sommelier Society of America, and received his certification as a sommelier. He also work for Patina Restaurant Group where he established mentors with whom he also constantly communicates.

A few years ago, Betancur was relocated to Portsmouth, NH, with his wife. He worked as a Sommelier at Babbo Pizzeria e Enoteca in Boston, MA, for over three years. He was the head of beverage education for the staff at Babbo and regularly holds wine education classes for the public. For the past six months, he has served as Beverage Director at Tuscan Kitchen Seaport where he constantly develops and overseas the program there. In his spare time, he enjoys traveling and exploring wine regions around the world.

Now, onto the interview:

What term do you use to describe yourself: Sommelier, Wine Steward, Wine Director, something else?
Sommelier or “wine guy” when working the floor, but Beverage Director on my business card. 

Please give a brief description of the wine list at your restaurant. 
The wine list at Tuscan Kitchen is mainly focused on Italian wines with about 20% dedicated to wines from the rest of the world. 

What are your objectives with the wine list? 
My main objective is to have wines on the list that everyone can enjoy… this includes wines at every price point for every pocket and occasion. For example: wines with familiarity for business meetings and comfort dinners, as well as those that will make people excited to try new wines from different regions, grapes and unknown low production producers. 

How often does the wine list change? 
Understanding what is happening in the market and in the wine world is important in order to manage a profitable beverage program. The wine list changes seasonally and even more often than that if I find a wine with unique characteristics that I think would be a great addition to the program. 

Are there omissions on your wine list you would like to fill?
French wines are minimally represented since Tuscan Kitchen is more focused on Italian wines. I would like to add wine from some obscure and exciting appellations known for their food and wine pairing, such as Jura. 

How do you learn about new wines? 
I’m constantly learning from articles, colleagues, and distributors. I attend many seminars and wine tastings. I love working the floor where I also learn from my guests. 

What is your strategy on pricing the wines on your list?
The strategy is very simple: finding great quality wines in order to deliver great value, adventurous, and hard-to-find wines. 

What is the most common wine question asked by your guests? 
“What do you recommend from [a particular area] that will go great with my food?” Others will ask, “What’s your driest red or white wine?” I like when guests ask questions because this allows me to build conversation, making the experience memorable. 

What is the most common criticism you receive from guests about your list? 
I haven’t been criticized personally, but I do think that guests would like to see more classic well-known West Coast wines; we are always sourcing ideas from our guests. 

What is your greatest challenge as a sommelier? 
To continue learning and improve every day in order to deliver an extremely memorable experience not just to our guests, but also to our staff through team education. 

Tell me about 1 or 2 of the best value wines on your list? 
     Erbaluce Antoniolo: Erbaluce is an ancient grape native to Northern Piemonte. A grape that showcases floral aromas of ripe citrus fruit with a hint of white blossoms. Bone dry on the palate with ton of texture and electric nerves. A fun wine for those who like viogneir from France. The Antoniolo family owns over 14 hectares under the watchful eye of their pioneering mother, Rosanna.
     Mauro Molino Barbera d’Asti ‘Leradici’ (root of the family): This is an outstanding family-run estate producing only 12 hectares. This amazing medium-body red wine has great black, earthy and red juicy fruit with a hint of spice. This wine has a ton of character with a beautiful lingering bright finish. It’s a wine that can be enjoyed with pizza or charred steak. 

Tell me about 1 or 2 of the most unique wines on your list?
     Murgo Nerello Mascallese Rose traditional method: Nerello Mascallese is an ancient grape to Sicily, mainly vinified as a red still wine. In this case, The Scammacca del Murgo family has been producing this electric red fruity, yet crisp, bright traditional method sparkling wine for over a century. This wine is great to drink at any time but also pairs well with your favorite fresh seafood, fried calamari, or lamb.

Tell me about 1 or 2 of your favorite wines on your list?
     Cerretto Barolo ‘Brunatte’:  The Cerreto family is one of the largest landholders in the Piemonte region. Here, like with many other Langhe producers, identity speaks first. Brunatte is the name of the single Cru, where the grapes are coming from. This wine showcases innovation and the identity of the land. Red rustic cherries with a hint of sweetness mid-palate, with leathery round tannis of a classic Barolo and a great bright finish around the edges. A great wine to enjoy with your favorite truffle meal.

Is there anything else you would like people to know about your wine list, your work as a sommelier, or wine service?
The wine list at Tuscan Kitchen Seaport is always evolving. I take into consideration all aspects of the wine market and trends. I always aim to give guests a great experience. I do my best to deliver what we all look for in a dining out experience: the beauty of wine, and food.

Thursday, February 28, 2019

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I am back again with a new edition of Thursday Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting, upcoming food & drink events.
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1) On Monday, March 25, starting at 6pm. enjoy an evening hosted by Clay Fritz, owner of California’s Fritz Underground Winery, at Abe & Louie’s Boston with a four course dinner paired with wine. The Fritz Winery Reception will begin at 6pm, with the first course served at 6:30pm.

Reception:
2016 Fritz Winery Dry Creek Valley Sauvignon Blanc
1st Course:
Crab Cake & Lobster Bisque duo with celery root remoulade
2015 Fritz Winery Russian River Valley Chardonnay
2nd Course:
Exotic Mushroom Strew with bone marrow & chanterelles
2014 Fritz Winery Russian River Valley Pinot Noir
3rd Course:
Shallot Crusted Filet Mignon with mustard greens & Parisian potatoes
2015 Fritz Winery Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel
Dessert:
Layered Chocolate & Cogna Semifreddo with crème anglaise
Castello di Mangione Vin Santo Trasimeno

Cost is $125 per person. Reservations can be made by calling the restaurant at (617) 536-6300.

2) Legal Harborside celebrates crustaceans with crab specials from March 8-10 to benefit the Greater Boston Food Bank. Legal Harborside will be celebrating crustaceans while giving back by dishing out a trio of specials showcasing fresh lump crab meat in which proceeds will benefit the Greater Boston Food Bank, an organization that works to address food insecurity by providing healthy and nutritious food items to those who need it most.

The perfect way to celebrate National Crab Meat Day (March 9), seafood lovers can indulge in the following creations all weekend long:

APPETIZER
Legal’s Signature Crab Cake ($17.95)
served with remoulade sauce, and a seasonal salad
LIGHT ENTREES
Crabmeat Salad ($21.95)
avocado, tomato, cucumber, egg, salad greens, and lemon vinaigrette
Crabmeat Roll ($21.95)
fries and coleslaw

3) On Tuesday, March 12th, from 7pm-10pm, The Library at Explorateur Café will host an exclusive Glendalough Distillery Whiskey Dinner where guests will enjoy and learn about creative whiskey pairings from the award-winning craft distillery in Ireland. Explorateur’s Executive Chef Yousef Ghalaini and Glendalough Brand Manager Donal O’Gallachoir will team up for an exquisite four-course menu paired with craft whiskey and cocktails from Ireland’s first craft distillery.

Glendalough focuses on perfecting the ageing and finishing of their whiskeys in order to best accentuate the diverse and creative flavors, allowing each of the pairings to be unique and flavorful. With flavors from rich to nutty to fruity and floral, Glendalough whiskeys can be enjoyed with foods like Grilled Colorado Lamb and even a special dessert of Dark Gingerbread prepared by the Explorateur pastry team. Guests will begin their night with a special cocktail hour followed by a guided four-course meal with craft whiskey pairings.

The full menu for the evening is as follows:

1st Course
Curried Cauliflower Soup (Sunchoke chips, Aleppo Chili)
Paired with Glendalough Double Barrel
2nd Course
Salmon Crudo (Fennel Dust, Aji Amarillo, Winter Citrus)
Paired with Glendalough Wild Botanical Gin
3rd Course
Grilled Colorado Lamb (melted spinach, Moroccan-style cous cous, mustard jus)
Paired with: Glendalough 7-Year-Old Single Malt
4th Course
Dark Gingerbread (warm anglaise, whiskey spiced ice cream)
Paired with: Traditional Irish Coffee Crafted with Glendalough Double Barrel

Tickets are available for purchase on Eventbrite for $75/per person. Tickets include a cocktail hour and a four-course menu with craft whiskey and cocktail pairings. Reservations are required and seating is limited. Guests must be 21+ to attend.

Tuesday, February 26, 2019

2015 3 Rings Shiraz: Deep Roots In Australian Wine

It all began with wine education...

In 1929, Alan Robb Hickinbotham was appointed the Deputy Principal of the Roseworthy Agricultural College, the first agricultural college in Australia, founded in 1883. Seven years later, Alan was partially responsible for establishing a Oenology curriculum at the college which quickly became well respected and eventually responsible for creating numerous important leaders in the wine industry. In 1971, descendants of Alan purchased land, and started growing grapes, mainly Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon, in what would become known as the esteemed Clarendon Vineyard.

Their grapes became quite well known and valued, some of the parcels sold to a few of the top wineries in Australia. They also produced some of their own wine, under various labels such as Hickenbotham Wines. Though they sold their Clarendon Vineyard in 2012, they still own other vineyards and are involved in multiple projects. For example, in 2004, David & Dena Hickinbotham and their son, Alan, decided to establish the 3 Rings brand, under III Rings Pty Ltdchoosing to work with famed winemaker Chris Ringland. The intent of this brand was to highlight Shiraz from the Barossa Valley, though they also make a Cabernet Sauvignon.

The vineyards for their 3 Rings Shiraz are an average age of 35 years, with soils that are primarily clay over slate bedrock. The grapes for their Reserve Shiraz are from a single vineyard, in the Kalimna sub-region of the Barossa, and the vines are an average of 85 years old, with soil that is mainly sandy loam over black clay.

I received a media sample of the 2015 3 Rings Shiraz ($19.99), which is made of 100% Shiraz, has an ABV of 14.9%, and only 6000 cases were made. I'm unsure of the oak treatment for this wine though clearly it was aged in oak for some amount of time. With a dark purple color, it possessed a nose of black fruits enhanced by spice notes. On the palate, it was a full bodied and muscular wine, with deep and complex flavors of plum, black pepper and raspberry, with a vein of pepper and other bold spices. However, it wasn't a jammy fruit bomb, and the alcohol was well balanced. The finish was fairly lengthy, the tannins bold but not overwhelming, and it has a spicy kick. The wine definitely would be best accompanied with a steak or similarly hearty dish.

This is a wine of power, but it isn't overpowering. The complex taste will please and with a juicy steak, the wine shines even greater. At $20, this Shiraz delivers a very good wine, worth the price. I definitely want to try their Reserve Shiraz, to experience that representation of Shiraz.

Monday, February 25, 2019

Rant: Cupcakes, Merely a Frosting Vehicle?

What do you believe is more important, the cupcake or the frosting? Is a cupcake merely the vehicle to transport a mound of frosting? Or should they be a harmonious and well balanced combination, with neither dominating?

This issue has been on my mind lately and over the weekend, it became even more prominent to me. I tasted a number of cupcakes from Quigley's Cakes, a New York company that creates specialized cakes, cupcakes, and more. They were selling some of their cupcakes at a gaming convention, so the cupcakes all had a fantasy or science-fiction theme. The cupcakes were inventive and delicious, and I felt that they struck a fine balance between cupcake and frosting, just the way I prefer.

The origin of cupcakes seems to begin in the late 18th century though it wouldn't become common to frost them until the 1950s. Cakes had been covered with icing or frosting since the 16th century, but it too much longer for cupcakes to become commonly frosted, though there were likely exceptions. I also suspect that since the 1950s, and especially in recent years, the amount of frosting on cupcakes has grown and grown. Sometimes the height of the frosting is now the same height, if not even higher, than the cupcake itself.

When the frosting is that high, it makes it extremely difficult to eat the cupcake, if you'd like a bite of both frosting and cupcake at the same time. Instead, you have to eat a few mouthfuls of just frosting before you can enjoy the cupcake too. It is as if you are giving the starring role to the sweet frosting, when it is the cupcake which should be the star. Frosting should have a supporting role, almost like clothing for the cupcake, but the clothing shouldn't be so bulky as to hide the body of the cupcake. If the frosting is so important to you, why even have a cupcake too? Just have a bowl of frosting instead.

Many chefs will tell you that food dishes should be balanced, that you want to create a harmony with all of the ingredients. Why shouldn't cupcakes also be better if balanced? Stop making towers of frosting upon small cupcakes and return to when the frosting playing more of a supporting role. Think of balance! The cupcakes from Quigley's Cakes met that balance, and they were a joy to eat. Besides that balance, the cupcakes were moist and flavorful, the frosting creamy and tasty.

Though Quigley's is located in New York, they will deliver to Massachusetts, so if you'd like to order some unique and delicious creations, check out their website.

Thursday, February 21, 2019

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I am back again with a new edition of Thursday Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting, upcoming food & drink events.
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1) The team at Bistro du Midi welcomes guests to dine on Executive Chef Robert Sisca’s latest tasting menu featuring this season’s finest shellfish and caviar dishes. a decadent meal with each shellfish and caviar dish carefully-paired with a wine selection. Chef Sisca says, “It’s exciting to taste the contrast in flavors between east coast and west coast shellfish. And as I discovered more about shellfish, my love for caviar also evolved. Eating caviar alone is special but pairing it with dishes, gives me an entirely new opportunity to create unique dishes and memories for others.”

The full Chef’s Seasonal Tasting Menu: Shellfish & Caviar is as follows:
Ora King Salmon Crudo, crosnes, blood orange, kumquat, smoked trout roe
Ayala, Brut Majeur, Champagne NV
Crusted Halibut, manila clams, spigarello, spicy crab tomato broth
Hugel, Gentil, Alsace 2015
Scituate Lobster, black pepper tagliatelle, quail egg, white sturgeon caviar
Domaine Costal, Vaillons 1er Cru, Chablis, Burgundy 2016
A-5 Kobe Beef, charred sea scallops, pomelos, champagne hollandaise, Osetra caviar
Domaine Faiveley, Clos des Myglands 1er Cru, Mercury, Bourgogne 2016
Fromager D’Affinois, blackberry coulis, passion fruit “caviar”
La Spinetta, Moscato d’asti, Piedmont, Italy 2017
Yuzu Frozen Mousse, black sesame cake, lemon granité
Petit Guiraud, Sauternes, Bordeaux 2015

The Shellfish and Caviar tasting menu is $125 per person, with the optional wine pairing for an additional $75 per person.
To make Reservations, please call 617-426-7878.

2) Celebrate National Margarita Day on Friday, February 22, from 6pm-9pm, at Rebel’s Guild with tequila pairings from Código 1530. Chef Sean Dutson has created a special menu featuring a variety of dishes that pull inspiration from Mexican cuisine, while still reflecting the American comfort dishes that Rebel’s Guild is known for. Guests will enjoy four courses with pairings that explore Código 1530’s entire portfolio of tequilas.

"Every drop of Código 1530’s tequila has been perfected over several generations the way one would a homemade recipe – embracing time-honored customs without ever veering from the traditions of the Los Bajos region and its tequilieras and jimadors. The Tequila begins with fully-matured agave aged over seven years, which is cooked in stainless steel ovens, fermented utilizing an organic family baker’s yeast in Amatitán, and distilled twice in stills handmade by the distilling family themselves. The Blanco is perfected over a lengthy, 15-day process. The rested Tequilas are meticulously aged to taste in French White Oak red wine barrels procured from the Napa Valley, which helps ensure that each and every barrel is worthy of bearing the Código 1530 name."

The full Código tequila dinner menu is as follows:
Georges Bank Sea Scallop Ceviche (red grapefruit, fennel, red onion & lime)
Código 1530 Blanco
Grilled Calamari (grilled onion, shaved jalapenos, lime & olive oil)
Código 1530 Rosa
Duck Taco (pulled duck meat, orange, jalapeno & cilantro slaw, corn tortilla)
Código 1530 Reposado
Rebel’s Rubbed Skirt Steak (grilled medium rare served with lime butter & dirty fries)
Código 1530 Añejo
Caramel Flan (candied orange with sugar cookie)
Código 1530 Origen

Tickets for the evening are $75.00 each and are available via Eventbrite at https://www.eventbrite.com/e/tequila-dinner-national-margarita-day-tickets-56069521448?aff=ebapi
All attendees must be 21+ with a valid ID.

3) On Saturday, March 2 from 1-3 p.m., Chef Tony Maws invites guests to The Kirkland Tap & Trotter to see (and taste) who can stake claim to the title of Boston’s Best French Fries! The Fry-Off is the third annual year for this charitable culinary competition, hosted by No Kid Hungry, and leading up to the local Taste of the Nation this summer. All proceeds from the “Ultimate Fry-Off” will be donated to the non-profit to help end childhood hunger in America.

Some of Boston’s culinary masters will throw-down the fry gauntlet, serving their best versions of French fries and dipping sauces for a cheering crowd. Attendees have the opportunity to sample all of the fries and crown a “People’s Choice” favorite, and a panel of esteemed judges will select the overall winner.

The competitors are:
Tony Maws--Craigie on Main | The Kirkland Tap & Trotter
Kevin O’Donnell and Michael Lombardi--SRV
Marc Sheehan--Loyal Nine
Mike Pagliarini--Benedetto and Guilia

Tickets are $25/person (kids under 12 are free) and include tastings of each chefs’ fries and accompaniments and two complimentary drinks.
Tickets can be purchased online at https://events.nokidhungry.org/events/boston-food-fights-fry-off/