Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I am back again with a new edition of Thursday Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting, upcoming food & drink events.
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1) A Taste of Ginger will be held on Monday, March 25, from 6:30pm-9:30pm, in the beautiful Art of the Americas Wing at the Museum of Fine Arts. Proceeds from A Taste of Ginger will benefit Joslin Diabetes Center’s Asian American Diabetes Initiative (AADI) which works to enhance the quality of life and health outcomes for the rising number of Asian Americans living with diabetes, and collaborates with Joslin as they work to find a cure.

Each year, hundreds of supporters and foodies gather to enjoy a lively evening, including the opportunity to meet and taste the cuisine of more than 30 of Boston’s most celebrated chefs such as Jasper White, Joanne Chang of Flour Bakery + Café, Tiffani Faison of Tiger Mama, Tracy Chang of PAGU, Sumiao Chen of Sumiao Hunan Kitchen, Jimmy Liang of Fuji at Ink Block, and Andy Husbands of The Smoke Shop BBQ, amidst the beauty of the MFA.

Culinary chair Bik-Fung Ng has been a committee member of A Taste of Ginger since its creation in 2005; she has more than 30 years of experience in the food industry and has been an activist in the Asian Community for many years, often collaborating with the AADI on nutrition-related projects. Longtime Joslin supporter and A Taste of Ginger founder Leverett Wing, whose parents helped establish the AADI at Joslin, will serve as event chair alongside Audrey Paek, a staple in the Boston nonprofit community, including time on the Asian Task Force Against Domestic Violence.

Emceed by Emmy-nominated NBC 10 Boston and NECN anchor and reporter Joy Lim Nakrin, the event will honor the founding families of one of Boston’s first and largest chef-centered fundraising events and will celebrate the substantial advances the AADI has made through research, education, outreach, and culturally appropriate treatments. This event will mark the 15th year that funds raised by supporters of A Taste of Ginger have helped fund the important work of the AADI.

I've attended this event multiple times and it always is a great time, with some amazing food, and it is all for an excellent cause.

TICKETS: Tickets are $250 per guest, and can be purchased online at:www.joslin.org/ginger

2) Cambridge Center for Adult Education (CCAE) has announced the chef line-up for its fundraiser, OF COURSE! 2019, taking place Sunday, April 28, at CCAE in the heart of Harvard Square. The event features a festive and interactive “Menu of Classes” at CCAE from 4:45pm-6:45pm and then the party continues as a brass band leads guests down the street to The Charles Hotel Ballroom. 

Guests will enter the ballroom to discover 17 of the city’s talented and much-appreciated chefs, restaurants and breweries presenting favorite food and drink for “A Taste of CCAE.” “It truly is a celebration of CCAE and the community” explains Linda Burton, executive director, CCAE. “At CCAE our goal is to bring education, conversation and the community together in a vibrant setting. April 28th will be one extraordinary evening where we salute not only our incomparable classes and inspired instructors, but also our wonderful supporters and many of Cambridge’s top chefs, vintners and breweries.”

There are 17 Cambridge chefs and restaurants participating:
Chef Jody Adams and Chef Pantazis Deligiannis, Saloniki
Chef Joanne Chang, Flour
Chef Tracy Chang, PAGU
Chef Peter Davis, Henrietta’s Table
Chef Carl Dooley, The Table at Season to Taste
Chef Mark Goldberg, Temple Bar
Chef Felipe Herrera, Felipe’s Taqueria
Chef Scott Jones, Luce
Chef Maura Kilpatrick, Sofra
Chef Tyler Kinnett, Harvest
Chef Tony Maws, Craigie on Main and Kirkland Tap & Trotter
Chef Peter McCarthy, EVOO and Za
Chef Michael Pagliarini, Benedetto and Giulia
Chef Kristen Rummel, Honeycomb Creamery
Chef Jeffrey Salazar, Parsnip
Chef Michael Scelfo, Alden & Harlow / Waypoint / Longfellow Bar
Chef Chris Willis, Pammy’s

The exclusive wine sponsor is 90+ Cellars, and an original OF COURSE! 2019 cocktail is being concocted by Bully Boy Distillers.

OF COURSE! 2019 is the CCAE’s primary fundraiser, providing resources to produce the 1200+ classes it presents each year, as well as to support its robust scholarship program, Conversations on the Edge discussion series, the Blacksmith House Poetry Series and its many other innovative programs and initiatives.

Time: 4:45pm-6:30pm: A Menu of Interactive Classes at 42 & 56 Brattle Street, Cambridge, MA
6:45pm-7:00pm: Brass Band Parade from 42 Brattle Street to The Charles Hotel
7:00pm-9:00pm: OF COURSE! 2019 "Taste of CCAE" Gala Party at The Charles Hotel

Tickets cost $275 and are available through www.ccae.org/ofcourse2019

Katie's Kitchen: Delicious, Value Breakfast in Wolfeboro

Over the weekend, I spent a couple days in Wolfeboro, New Hampshire, staying at Adam Japko's stunning lakehouse with a number of friends. Both mornings, I stopped by Katie's Kitchen for breakfast and every time I now return to Wolfeboro, I'll make sure I go back to Katie's Kitchen. Delicious, fresh and inexpensive breakfast in a homey atmosphere. And those Cinnamon Rolls!

Katie's Kitchen, owned by Patty Lord, is a small, homey and casual restaurant, a place frequented by many locals. Locals know they can get up and refill their own cup of coffee, or even bus their own table. Everyone seems to know everyone else, a close-knit community, bonding over pancakes or bacon & eggs. Patty presides over the restaurant like a charming aunt, extremely personable, very attentive, and with a nice sense of humor. She likes the restaurant as it is, resistant to changing anything because she feels everything works well just the way it is. For example, she won't add an expresso/cappucino machine, believing her coffee is sufficient for all. Why ruin the charm of this place with such a machine?

The restaurant primarily serves breakfast and their menu is relatively simple, though they are willing to make almost anything else you might want if it is possible. They have you covered with all the basics, such as eggs, pancakes, omelettes, waffles, and eggs benedict. Their low prices are hard to beat, such as 3 Eggs, Toast & Home Fries for only $2.20! Three good-sized Pancakes for only $2.50. Only $3.25 for an Omelette. They also make fresh muffins and cinnamon rolls each morning, in limited quantities, so make sure to get there early so you don't miss out.

(As an aside, I also want to bring your attention to a fascinating article by my friend Patrick Maguire, Overtip Breakfast Servers. He makes persuasive points about why you should tip well at breakfast, especially at such an inexpensive place like Katie's Kitchen. The usual 15%-20% gratuity just isn't adequate in this situation.)

The Cinnamon Roll is amazing, soft and full of plenty of cinnamon, as well as covered with a mildly sweet glaze. Though it comes with a large pat of butter, you won't need it for this sweet treat. This is one of the best cinnamon rolls that I've eaten at a restaurant. I'd come to Katie's Kitchen just for a couple of these pastries.

Their fresh Muffins are also quite tasty, and I was pleasantly surprised to find a Butterscotch Muffin here. I love the taste of butterscotch but had never had such a muffin. The butterscotch flavor in this moist muffin was just enough, not overly sweet or strong, but prominent and delicious. We need more Butterscotch Muffins!

The Blueberry Muffin was also quite good, moist with plenty of sweet blueberries, and a nice crusty top. Their Corn Muffin was tasty as well.

The Belgian Waffle, with a side of crisp bacon, was chewy and flavorful, just how I prefer my waffles. I also enjoyed their Blueberry Pancakes, which were large, and filled with plentiful blueberries.

A simple dish of Scrambled Eggs, Bacon, Home Fries and English Muffin. Hearty and delicious.

If you enjoy breakfast, and find yourself in the Wolfeboro area, then you must stop by Katie's Kitchen. You won't be able to beat the prices, the food will be fresh and delicious, and you'll enjoy the homey ambiance. And their cinnamon rolls and muffins are a must buy! Kudos to Patty and the entire staff at Katies Kitchen.

2017 Herdade do Rocim Amphora: Preserving The Talha In Alentejo

When you hear about amphora, skin contact, or orange wines, you're likely to think of countries such as Georgia, Italy and Slovenia. Portugal probably doesn't immediately come to mind although it has a two-thousand year old history with amphora wines. That may change in the near future if the Talha wines of the Alentejo region gain more attention and publicity.

Although I've known about talha wines for a few years, it was only recently that I've seen any available in Massachusetts. At Pamplemousse, in Reading, I found the 2017 Herdade do Rocim Amphora Vinho Tinto ($17.99) and I picked up a couple bottles because I was intrigued.

Wines fermented on their skins in talha (a Portuguese word for amphorae), has a history extending back two thousand years to the ancient Romans. This tradition in the Alentejo region has been maintained throughout the centuries though the advent of more modern wine-making techniques led to a massive decrease in its use. There has been a recent resurgence though in the use of talha, even leading to the creation of its own DO, the Vinho de Talha DOC. 

It states on their website, "According to etymologists, the term “talha” comes from the Latin “Tinalia” and that refers to large pot or vessel. A talha, therefore, is a pot that varies in its porosity depending on its intended use and the type of clay it is made from. It is used for fermenting grape juice and storing several liquids, especially wine and olive oil. The talha comes in a range of sizes and shapes, according to the potter’s working style and the local traditions where it is made. It is rarely stands taller than two metres in height and rarely exceeds a ton in weight; it can hold up to 2,000 litres of must."

The Herdade do Rocim estate was purchased in 2000 by the late Jose Vieira, founder of Movicortes, S.A., a holding company which specializes in agricultural machinery. Jose's daughter, Catarina Vieira, leads the operations of the estate, which is located in the Baixo Alentejo. The estate consists of about 120 hectares, with 70 under vine. The vineyards are broken down into 53 hectares of red grapes and 17 hectares of whites. Some of the planted grapes include Alicante Bouschet, Antão Vaz, Aragonez, Manteúdo, Moreto, Perrum, Rabo de Ovelha,  Roupeiro, Tinta Grossa, Touriga Nacional, and Trincadeira.

Their stated mission is "...to produce wines in a sustainable manner, respecting the social, cultural and natural matrix of the region." They are also low interventionists, such as only using indigenous yeasts. Some of their vineyards are certified organic while others are organic, though not yet certified.  They wish to emphasize the terroir of their vineyards, while maintaining sustainability. In addition, they wish to preserve the ancient tradition of the talha.

The 2017 Herdade do Rocim Amphora Vinho Tinto is a blend of indigenous Portuguese grapes including 50% Moreto, 30% Tinta Grossa, 15% Trincadeira, and 5% Aragonez. Both Moreto and Tinta Grossa are more unique to the Alentejo region so it is rare to see them in any other Portuguese wines. Such an intriguing mix of grapes! The vineyards are organic, though not certified, and the wine was fermented in the talha, without any temperature control and using indigenous yeasts. Afterwards, the wine was aged for three months in the bottle.

At only 12% ABV, the wine has a deep red color with an interesting nose of earth and red fruits, with a mild floral note. On the palate, it was fresh, with deep and complex flavors of plum, black cherry, and blackberry, an earthy backbone, and a mild tomato accent. The tannins were well integrated, the acidity was good, and the finish was fairly long. There was a certain uniqueness of its complex flavor profile, though it certainly reminded me of other Portuguese wines. This is a wine that would pair well with hearty dishes, a thick stew, a juicy steak, or a humble burger.

A fine introduction to Talha wines from Alentejo, though I definitely need to find more such wines to taste. And at its price, about $18, it is a good value for the quality, complexity and taste of this wine. As I've long and often said, Portugal offers some of the best wine values in the world.

Rant: Why Is Your Restaurant Closing? Bad Service

No one will disagree that running a restaurant is a difficult, and expensive, endeavor. They usually operate on razor thin margins and the potential of closure often looms like the Sword of Damocles. This year, we've seen some high-visibility closures while other, more under-the-radar restaurants, have closed as well. A number of articles have discussed some of the reasons for these closures, exploring the significant obstacles facing most restaurants.

I'm here to discuss one other contributory factor, bad service. With thousands of restaurants competing for customers, a restaurant needs to do its best not to turn customers away. They not only need to provide good food & drink, but their service needs to be good as well. And if there are service issues, the restaurant needs to correct the issue and find a way to make it up to their customers.

Otherwise, you could be turning away a customer who will tell their friends and family about their bad experience, or even write about it on Yelp or Trip Advisor. That single bad experience could easily lead to dozens of other people, if not many more, choosing not to dine at that restaurant. Can a restaurant afford to turn away all those potential customers, especially when avoiding that matter was fairly easy?

During the past week or so, there's been three service-related incidents which have come onto my radar, bringing this issue to the forefront for me. First, while attending a local convention at a hotel, I dined at the hotel restaurant twice for dinner. Both times, my dinner was not served in a timely fashion, and in one of those incidents, a server actually gave away my dinner to someone else. Such a long wait for relatively simple dishes. In both incidents, a manager merely apologized without any offer to otherwise remedy the situation, even when I explained this was the second time in two nights that this issue occurred.

Second, a relative of mine gave a restaurant recommendation to a friend, a suburban restaurant which I like very much. The friend is a local, who had never been to this restaurant before, and who frequently dines out. Unfortunately, when she went to the restaurant, the host was so rude to her that she chose not to dine there and will never return. And I'm sure she will tell her friends about her bad experience, and more potential customers will be lost. As they say, you never get a second chance to make a first impression.

Third, other friends dined at a high-end, and pricey, Boston restaurant, enjoying the food, but multiple service issues turned it into what I think of as a nightmare of an experience. An inattentive server, an unfriendly hostess, a large chip in a cocktail glass, an undue delay in service of one of their entrees, and more. And nothing, beyond a perfunctory apology, was done to compensate them for all these service problems. Not even a free dessert or cocktail. At such high-end restaurants, you expect superb service and the best places do their best to resolve service issues, to make the customer happy. This restaurant allowed these customers to leave unhappy, and they will probably never return, and will also spread the word of their negative experience. For one, I won't dine there after learning of this experience.

That restaurant could have easily helped to ameliorate the situation, maybe a comped round of drinks, or comped desserts, or comp the late entree. It would have been a small price for the restaurant to pay to make the customers happier. The customers would have likely appreciated the small effort and returned another time, giving the restaurant a second chance to show its best. Instead, the customers left unhappy and the restaurant will lose them and others. That isn't the way to run a successful restaurant.

I've had service issues at numerous restaurants, including some of my favorites. The difference is in how the restaurant handles the issue. Those restaurants which make the effort to fix the issue, to make the customer happy, are those which are quickly forgiven a temporary lapse. No restaurant is perfect and mistakes sometimes get made. Most customers understand this and are willing to make allowances, provided the restaurant does its part to make matters right.

This is a factor that is fully in the restaurant's control. They need to be proactive in dealing with service errors, to try to ensure a customer doesn't leave unhappy. As an unhappy customer may never return, and as they spread the word of their bad experience, you could lose more customers as well. Can you really afford to turn off all those customers, especially when the solution is relatively easy and inexpensive?

Service, Service, Service. Never forget its importance to the success of your restaurant.

The Mind Of A Sommelier: Jose Luis Betancur

(Check out my Introduction to the The Mind of a Sommelier series.)

Jose Luis Betancur is a Chilean native who immigrated to the United States at age 27 where he began working in the hospitality industry in Boston. When he relocated to New York City, he worked for the TAO Group where he was inspired by their commitment to hospitality. It was during his time working for TAO Group that he took a great interest in wine and spirits. Luis went on to take a program of wine studies at the Sommelier Society of America, and received his certification as a sommelier. He also work for Patina Restaurant Group where he established mentors with whom he also constantly communicates.

A few years ago, Betancur was relocated to Portsmouth, NH, with his wife. He worked as a Sommelier at Babbo Pizzeria e Enoteca in Boston, MA, for over three years. He was the head of beverage education for the staff at Babbo and regularly holds wine education classes for the public. For the past six months, he has served as Beverage Director at Tuscan Kitchen Seaport where he constantly develops and overseas the program there. In his spare time, he enjoys traveling and exploring wine regions around the world.

Now, onto the interview:

What term do you use to describe yourself: Sommelier, Wine Steward, Wine Director, something else?
Sommelier or “wine guy” when working the floor, but Beverage Director on my business card. 

Please give a brief description of the wine list at your restaurant. 
The wine list at Tuscan Kitchen is mainly focused on Italian wines with about 20% dedicated to wines from the rest of the world. 

What are your objectives with the wine list? 
My main objective is to have wines on the list that everyone can enjoy… this includes wines at every price point for every pocket and occasion. For example: wines with familiarity for business meetings and comfort dinners, as well as those that will make people excited to try new wines from different regions, grapes and unknown low production producers. 

How often does the wine list change? 
Understanding what is happening in the market and in the wine world is important in order to manage a profitable beverage program. The wine list changes seasonally and even more often than that if I find a wine with unique characteristics that I think would be a great addition to the program. 

Are there omissions on your wine list you would like to fill?
French wines are minimally represented since Tuscan Kitchen is more focused on Italian wines. I would like to add wine from some obscure and exciting appellations known for their food and wine pairing, such as Jura. 

How do you learn about new wines? 
I’m constantly learning from articles, colleagues, and distributors. I attend many seminars and wine tastings. I love working the floor where I also learn from my guests. 

What is your strategy on pricing the wines on your list?
The strategy is very simple: finding great quality wines in order to deliver great value, adventurous, and hard-to-find wines. 

What is the most common wine question asked by your guests? 
“What do you recommend from [a particular area] that will go great with my food?” Others will ask, “What’s your driest red or white wine?” I like when guests ask questions because this allows me to build conversation, making the experience memorable. 

What is the most common criticism you receive from guests about your list? 
I haven’t been criticized personally, but I do think that guests would like to see more classic well-known West Coast wines; we are always sourcing ideas from our guests. 

What is your greatest challenge as a sommelier? 
To continue learning and improve every day in order to deliver an extremely memorable experience not just to our guests, but also to our staff through team education. 

Tell me about 1 or 2 of the best value wines on your list? 
     Erbaluce Antoniolo: Erbaluce is an ancient grape native to Northern Piemonte. A grape that showcases floral aromas of ripe citrus fruit with a hint of white blossoms. Bone dry on the palate with ton of texture and electric nerves. A fun wine for those who like viogneir from France. The Antoniolo family owns over 14 hectares under the watchful eye of their pioneering mother, Rosanna.
     Mauro Molino Barbera d’Asti ‘Leradici’ (root of the family): This is an outstanding family-run estate producing only 12 hectares. This amazing medium-body red wine has great black, earthy and red juicy fruit with a hint of spice. This wine has a ton of character with a beautiful lingering bright finish. It’s a wine that can be enjoyed with pizza or charred steak. 

Tell me about 1 or 2 of the most unique wines on your list?
     Murgo Nerello Mascallese Rose traditional method: Nerello Mascallese is an ancient grape to Sicily, mainly vinified as a red still wine. In this case, The Scammacca del Murgo family has been producing this electric red fruity, yet crisp, bright traditional method sparkling wine for over a century. This wine is great to drink at any time but also pairs well with your favorite fresh seafood, fried calamari, or lamb.

Tell me about 1 or 2 of your favorite wines on your list?
     Cerretto Barolo ‘Brunatte’:  The Cerreto family is one of the largest landholders in the Piemonte region. Here, like with many other Langhe producers, identity speaks first. Brunatte is the name of the single Cru, where the grapes are coming from. This wine showcases innovation and the identity of the land. Red rustic cherries with a hint of sweetness mid-palate, with leathery round tannis of a classic Barolo and a great bright finish around the edges. A great wine to enjoy with your favorite truffle meal.

Is there anything else you would like people to know about your wine list, your work as a sommelier, or wine service?
The wine list at Tuscan Kitchen Seaport is always evolving. I take into consideration all aspects of the wine market and trends. I always aim to give guests a great experience. I do my best to deliver what we all look for in a dining out experience: the beauty of wine, and food.