Water Doughnuts: Some Bagel History (Part 2)

And a look into the fascinating history of the bagel continue...

Bagels were popular not just in New York but also in places such as in Miami during the 1940s. The Jewish Post, February 14, 1947, in an article on Jewish life in Miami, wrote, "Why not enjoy your “lox,” and you might even try it with "bagel.” Continuing in that vein, the Wisconsin Jewish Chronicle, March 12, 1948, published an article, Miami Beach--The Tel Aviv of America, noting that this town has about 32,000 residents, 54% being Jewish. During the winter, the town will be visited by about 650,000 tourists, 85% being Jewish. It is noted that you can find a bagel with cream cheese for 30 cents, or 45 cents with the addition of lox.

The Tuscon Daily Citizen, June 11, 1948, showing bagels are also popular in Arizona, gave some prices for the bagels in a deli ad. A lox and bagel was 30 cents, and 45 cents if you also added cream cheese. Interesting that the prices were the same despite the distance between Florida and Arizona.

Do you like Pizza Bagels? I know I enjoyed them when I was growing up. The first reference I found to pizza bagels was about seventy years ago, in The Daily Journal, May 1, 1948 (NJ). The newspaper had a bakery ad which offered Pizza Bagels. The Miami News, February 5, 1952, also mentioned pizza Bagels, noting that it "Embodies the best qualities of pizza sans soggy dough." The Daily News, June 8, 1952 (NY) had an ad too for pizza bagels, but included a price. The cafeteria at the S. Klein store sold pizza bagels for 25 cents, and in their October 12, 1952 issue, noted a Monday special where the pizza bagels were only 10 cents.

The Ohio Jewish Chronicle, February 11, 1955, also had an advertisement for Max's 21 Restaurant & Delicatessen which mentions "Max's First Bagel Pizza" though no further description is provided. Later, the Ohio Jewish Chronicle, June 22, 1956, presented an advertisement for Johnny's Pizza which also offered a Bagel Pizza, though in 9 varieties. Again though, there are no further details, but this is the first mention of different varieties of pizza bagels that are available. The Greenville News, October 13, 1957 (SC) wrote that in New York, they have a pizza-bagel, "a bagel stuffed with pizza sauce."

The first reference to "egg bagels" seems to be The Cincinnati Enquirer, November 5, 1948, which had a pastry shop ad offering "Egg Bagel." The Tampa Tribune, January 15, 1949, had a similar bakery ad for Egg Bagel while The Bakersfield Californian, May 11, 1949, had a grocery store bakery add mentioning Egg Bagels. None of the ads though described what an egg bagel might be and how it differed from other bagels, except, of course, it contained eggs.

More bagel prices! The American Israelite, February 3, 1949 (Ohio) published an ad for Rothstein's Bakery, noting a dozen bagels costs 36 cents. The Rutland Daily Herald, February 17, 1949 (VT) printed a bakery ad, selling  a dozen Jewish Bagels for 35 cents, which can be compared with a dozen Plain Doughnuts for 25 cents. The Tuscon Daily Citizen, December 9, 1949, had an ad for a dozen Water Bagels for 35 cents. The Hattiesburg American, February 15, 1951 (Missouri) had an ad for freshly baked bagels at 40 cents a dozen. Fairly close prices for a dozen bagels.

There were some worries during this time period that bagel making might be a dying art. The Detroit Free Press, February 27, 1949, in an article titled Dying Bagel Art Survives in Detroit, talked about the Bagel King Bakery, a shop with 8 bakers that sold 9,600 bagels on a Saturday night. They stated that it took about 2/12 years of training to learn how to make bagels and that "A deft bagel twister can shape 84 in 5 minutes." Bagel making, by hand, is tough and skilled work. This isn't the only article I read that stated bagel making was a dying art.

The Philadelphia Inquirer, May 13, 1949, printed an amusing tidbit, "A pretzel is a bagel running around in the wrong circles.  A bagel is a pretzel that has gone straight."

In a technological step forward, The Journal News, June 6, 1949 (NY), reported on a new bagel slicer. A Cleveland restaurateur invented a machine, and is currently seeking a patent, to slice a bagel, "It includes a block of wood which holds a bagel firmly against a metal upright so it can't slip while being sliced into halves like an open clam." Nine years later, the Jewish Post (June 20, 1958) reported on a new bagel holder, created by a Miami plastics company. The article states, "The instrument has six sharp teeth on each side, to hold bagel firmly, and its use insures equal bagel halves for toasting,..."

The first frozen bagels? The Republican & Herald, July 4, 1949 (PA), in an article, Gossip In Gotham, mentioned that "Frozen bagels are due any day now, six to a package." The Brooklyn Daily Eagle, June 6, 1950, in an article on frozen foods, noted that you can now find frozen bagels in San Francisco.

In prior newspaper references, the term "bagel" is presented as is, but the Tuscon Daily Citizen, November 4, 1949 (AZ) was the first I found with a Deli ad mentioning "New York Water Bagels," though no explanation for that descriptor was provided.

A new Jewish cookbook was highlighted in the Jewish Post, January 20, 1950. Jewish Cookery, by Leah W. IV. Pearlroth Leonard (previously the food columnist for The Post), is a 500 page tome, broken down into 35 chapters. The article states, "Mrs. Leonard, in her chapter on bread, writes sadly of the fast-disappearing art of bagel-making in America. She includes a recipe for these water doughnuts, which she insists are typically Jewish as gefilte fish "exacted from a retired baker, who learned the art in Europe and practiced it in one of our large cities for more than 40 years.” She tested it successfully, in spite of the baker’s warning that it could not possibly be done at home. Get a copy of "Jewish Cookery,” and bake yourself a batch of bagel." I love the description of bagels as "water doughnuts."

More bagel pricing. The Albuquerque Journal, March 4, 1950, published an ad for Court Bakery, noting a dozen bagels cost 34 cents. And in the Dunkirk Evening Observer, May 4, 1950 (NY), there was an ad for a dozen bagel rolls for 50 cents. The Daily Times, November 2, 1950 (MD) printed a bakery ad offering bagel rolls for 40 cents a dozen. The Daily Times, April 19, 1951 (MD) printed an ad for fresh bagels for 50 cents a dozen.

Green bagels? The Kingsport News, March 23, 1950, reported that in Manhattan, "The kosher places celebrating St. Patrick's Day with window displays of green matso balls and bagels." This would seem to predate when Murray Lender began making green bagels in 1959. Lender might have made the practice more popular, but it doesn't seem he was the first to make them.

More bagel recipes were provided in the Dayton Daily News, April 19, 1951, which described some traditional Passover foods. Their recipe was for Pesach'dige Bagels, and they used matzo meal and there was no boiling of the bagel dough. The Press & Sun Bulletin, October 26, 1951 (NY) also printed a Bagel recipe, though it was more traditional and included the necessity of boiling. The Pittsburgh Press, March 26, 1953 had a recipe for "bagel (pretzel roll)."

An intriguing financial opportunity was included in The Record, March 20, 1951 (NJ). In an ad titled "Sell Bagels." it stated, "If you now sell to groceries, luncheonettes or house-to-house, this is your opportunity to increase your income 100%. Call Cliffside..." with a telephone number. Selling bagels as a way to generate additional income? A door-to-door bagel salesperson? It sure beats selling  encyclopedias.

The Miami Daily News, March 23, 1951, announced the opening of a new English-Yiddish variety show entitled "Bagels & Yox for 1951." The show will have comedians, singers, and a ventriloquist, with Velvel, the only Yiddish-speaking dummy.  The March 25, 1951 edition mentions that the show is about three and a half hours long. Plus, much of the show is comedy with a significant amount od off-color humor. Cellophene wrapped bagels were also passed out to the audience. The April 19, 1951 issue mentioned that because of Passover, the show wouldn't be passing out bagels, but would pass out matzohs instead. The Daily News, June 2, 1951, reported on the success of this show and indicated it was due on Broadway in September.

I hadn't previously heard of a difference between Western and Eastern bagels. The Jewish Post, March 23, 1951, though reported on them, "The difference between Western bagels and Eastern bagels caused a minor crisis on the set of Warner Bros. 'Tomorrow is Another Day.' Director Felix Feist discovered that the bagel-peddlers cart in a New York street was loaded with Western-type bagels--i.e. small and donut shaped. He insisted on the Eastern type--i.e. larger and pretzel shaped. The property master finally hustled up some of the Eastern bagels from a delicatessen on Los Angeles' Brooklyn Avenue."

Another bagel strike hits New York. The Brooklyn Daily Eagle, December 17, 1951, reported that the Bagel Bakers of America, Local 338, A.F.L. closed 32 of the 34 bagel bakeries in the city, involving the 10 in Brooklyn. The workers claimed management had failed to live up to their contractual obligations. This led to a decrease in sales of lox as well, as "the true bagel devotee insisting the smoked salmon just doesn't go with anything else but a tooth-destroying bagel." The Miami News, January 26, 1952, reported that the strike was set to end on January 28. The union got a $3 per day raise for the employees, to a daily rate of $30.

The Wisconsin Jewish Chronicle, May 11, 1951, reported that nationally syndicated columnist George Sokolsky was upset that the new Dictionary of Americanisms failed to include the words "bagel" and "lox." The dictionary is a "two-volume publication on words added to the English language in this country." George noted the prevalence of these two words on Broadway. Other newspaper articles would later mention how readers could find either word in a dictionary so wrote to their local newspapers for mire information.

The Courier-Journal, February 21, 1952 (KY), published a long bagel article, noting that "Except in cities where there is a large Jewish population, the general population is in woeful ignorance of some mighty fine eating." It describes the nature of bagels, and also talks about certain related matters, such as "Among Orthodox Jews, it used to be a custom to serve people in mourning a dish of bagels, since the bagel, a circlet without beginning or end, represents the continuity of life." Bagels also figured into curses, as "So much have bagels entered into the thinking that little street urchins don't tell you to go to the devil--they'll tell you where to go, and then add the instructive phrase--'and bake a bagel."

Some controversy was brought to the bagel stage in an article in the The Boston Globe, March 9, 1952. The play, "Bagel & Yox," was playing at the Schubert Theater, led by New Yorker Lou Saxon, as the master of ceremonies. Lou stated, "Boston bagels are bigger and better than New York bagels. They taste better--I guess New Englanders use more butter." Though this comment probably pleased Bostonians, I'm not sure Lou's fellow New Yorkers were too happy.

The Burlington Free Press, March 28, 1952 (VT), described some of the food stores in the city of Burlington, with a section on Passover foods. The article mentions, "A newcomer to the bread line is available in one delicatessen that sells 75 dozen over Saturday and Sunday. It is bagel, the loaf shaped like a doughnut. The dough is boiled before it is baked, resulting in a hard crust and soft center." Seems bagels were relatively new in northern Vermont.

A bagel battle comes to New York. The Star-Gazette, April 5, 1952 (NY) reported that the Lovitch Bakery had been making "bagel" on only Sundays for almost forty years. It is specifically noted that "bagel" is a "singular, collective noun" and that it is "something made of flour, egg, and water, boiled in hot water for ten minutes and then oven-baked for 20 minutes." Their bagels sells for 40 cents a dozen. A super-grocer came to the area, selling bagels made in Washington, D.C., which is "shipped in daily, brown-and-serve affairs" that cost 65 cents a dozen. Baker Joe Lovitch calls them "synthetic."

One of the first mentions of a different variety of bagel is in the Orlando Evening Star, August 13, 1953, which mentions a "poppyseed bagel." The article also gives an amusing definition of lox, "Lox? That's a smoked salmon with sex."

Concerning bagel strikes, the Breckenridge American, December 27, 1953,  reported on a strike by 45 truck drivers, who delivered bagels to restaurants and neighborhood stores, which lasted for about 32 days. A settlement was eventually reached so the bagel famine ended. This story was also reported in a California newspaper and they needed to write a follow-up article to explain the nature of the bagel.

In a sports column of the Madera Daily News Tribune (December 31, 1953), they published an article titled, "Bagel is Explained." One of their readers wanted an explanation of the bagel and the article stated, "A bagel has been jocularly, but nevertheless somewhat accurately, described as a hardboiled doughnut. But unlike the doughnut it is (1) not sweet (2) not fried, but baked (3) not soft. About all it shares with the doughnut is its shape." The article continues, "It is a breakfast favorite of many a New Yorker, particularly those who have been exposed to the eating habits of the Yiddish population of the city; for a breakfast of lox (smoked salmon), cream cheese, and half-and-half (weak coffee halved with cream) is very often favored by Jewish folk." And it also states, "Dipped in coffee, its lobster-like outer shell becomes amenable to the dental onslaught of its devourer. Smeared with sweet-butter, after having been sliced across, it becomes a rare delicacy; garnished with fresh cream cheese, it is a delight; and if the salt, sweet flavor of smoked salmon is added (as the famous Lindy's restaurant serves it) the bagel becomes the center around which a whole breakfast may be built."

Why would a bagel article be presented in a sports column? The article address that question, "Many an earnest eastern lad grappling with the lower rungs of the ladder to fistic prominence has subsisted almost entirely on the bagel. Like Benjamin Franklin’s two-penny rolls, the bagel is a classic, inexpensive way to fill the void beneath the manly chest." The answer continues, "But the bagel for a long time was the stuff of which fighters were made ... at least in the early mornings of the early days of their careers." Boxing and bagels! This also harkens back to the prior article I mentioned, in the Hartford Courant, March 7, 1926, where a basketball time only had $1 for food and bought bagels.

Another initial mention of a different variety of bagel is in the Miami News, February 5, 1954, which states that Pumpernik's restaurant had invented pumpernickel bagels. This restaurant was established in 1953, and also added Pumpernik's Pantry, a bake shop. For more explanation, the Muncie Evening Press, March 11, 1954, published an article titled Once Lowly Bagel Suddenly Becomes a Glorified Food. The article noted that bagels were now selling better since the invention of the pumpernickel bagel by Pumpernik's. Arthur Godfrey, a famous entertainer and talent scout,  praised this bagel on the radio, spreading the word coast to coast, and everyone suddenly wanted pumpernickel bagels.

It might seem strange to some that pumpernickels bagels were invented in Florida and not New York. Other bakeries and shops seemed to quickly jump on the pumpernickel wagon. The Philadelphia Inquirer, February 25, 1954, spoke of something new in bagels, the pumpernickel bagel, and The Daily Record, August 13, 1954 (NJ) also promoted pumpernickel bagels. Obviously, the idea of pumpernickel bagels couldn't be restricted to Pumpernik's, so others decided to add it to their own selections. In New York, they took it to the new step. The Daily News, February 6, 1955 (NY) mentioned that onion pumpernickel bagels have become popular.

The Courier-News, February 16, 1956 (NJ), has a bakery ad mentioning Pumpernickel bagels, as well as both "water & egg bagel." It was interesting to learn in The Coshocton Democrat, April 11, 1956 (Ohio), that actor and comedian Jerry Lewis had developed a passion for pumpernickel bagels. Pumpernickel bagels certainly seemed to be extremely popular as the Democrat & Chronicle: May 20, 1956 wrote that "Jack Bell, columnist for the Miami Herald, reported that Charlie Bookbinder of Pumpernick's (it's a restaurant) boasted that he was on the verge of selling his one-millionth bagel." As the restaurant was only three years old, that is quite an achievement in such a short time.

Did you ever hear about canned bagels? In The Brooklyn Daily Eagle, December 29, 1954, there was an article highlighting Israel Hershman, the owner of the Coney Island Bagel Bakery, who is supposed to be a master at creating bagels. As the article states, "Bagels, allow me to instruct you, are created, not manufactured. Each one is fashioned by the touch of a skilled hand."  Hershman creates some bagels which will be canned, something new in bagel packaging. The bagels need to be created at the proper size so they fit within the can. Hershman has shipped these canned bagels to places including Rome and Israel. Who would have thought?

Hershman appears to not have been the only one to consider canned bagels. The Detroit Free Press, June 3, 1955, wrote that, "Bagels in a can. That's the offering of Bread Basket, Inc. claimed to be the first commercial bread product successfully canned without the use of preservatives. Prices at 24 cents for a can of our bagels..."  All you have to do is "Open the can, heat or toast and serve." The Tribune, August 26, 1955 (PA) gives more detail, that the Bread Basket, Inc., located in New York, is "offering vacuum packed canned bagels, four ready to serve."

The variety of bagels continued to expand, as mentioned in the Ohio Jewish Chronicle, November 11, 1955, with an advertisement for the Berkman-Yellen Bagelry. The ad mentions the variety of different bagels they sell, including rye, poppy seed, pumpernickel, cheese, onion, onion & poppy seed, and plain. This seems to predate most of the varieties of bagels that Lender's Bagels would later promote, except possibly the raisin bagel.

More worries about bagel being a dying art. The Sedalia Democrat, August 23, 1956 (Missouri) printed a fascinating article about bagels, aka water doughnuts," which stated "A number of Jewish bakers declare the art of bagel making has become almost lost in the United States. In fact, older men in the industry fear that bagels will disappear because the younger bakers show no enthusiasm for learning the method." The article also touched a bit on the bagel's history, noting that "In Eastern European countries the making of bagel was generally turned over to the skilled fingers of women who formed the circlets of raised dough and passed them onto the master-baker very rapidly. These water doughnuts must be handled with care and processed with precision." Finally, the article had a bagel recipe, noting variations which included sprinkling them with poppy seeds or coarse salt.

The Jewish Post, February 1, 1957, returned to the idea of making bagels at home, providing a complete recipe for the home cook. The ingredients list included: 3 cups all-purpose flour, plus 3 tblsps. for kneading board; 1 1/2 tsps. salt; 2 tblsps. sugar; 1 pkg. yeast; 2/3 cup warm water; 3 tblsps. oil or shortening; 1 egg; and 4 quarts boiling water, to which add 2 tblsps. sugar. The instructions include boiling and baking the bagel. The Daily News, November 2, 1957, also published another bagel recipe. Making bagels at home now seems to be a lost art.

Free bagels! The Escanaba Daily Press, March 20, 1957 (MI), wrote that in New York City, "A Teamsters local has an agreement with the New York City bagel manufacturers that permits all employees to take home two dozen free bagels at the end of each working day." A nice little benefit and interesting that it ended up as part of their contract.

Finally, an explanation for water bagels! The Daily News, January 12, 1958, wrote about Sam and Ann Goldsmith, who make bagels in a basement bakery in the Bronx. Their unsalted bagels outsell salted ones by 3 to 1. They also make the water bagel, "which is soaked in a boiling solution before baking to give it a glossy finish and considerable strength." This is what we know as the traditional New York style bagel, where boiling is involved. Thus, it seems logical that the egg bagels, which are the contrast to water bagels, do not involve boiling.

Mini-bagels? The Pittsburgh Post-Gazette, January 27, 1958 published an add for a package of miniature Baglettes, which cost 39 cents, though the size of the package wasn't given.

The extent of the number of bagel bakeries in New York were explained in the Bay Ridge Home Reporter, February 7, 1958 (NY). "In 31 bagel bakeries, 204 bakers and 49 baker's helpers, members of Local 338 of the Bakery and Confectionary Employees' Union, produce all the water bagels sold in the city. Whole wheat and egg bagels for retail consumption only are made by individual bread bakers in local bakeries." It seems that the skills to produce water bagels are more valued as they are controlled by the union, allowing others to make whole wheat and egg bagels.

There are additional references to various bagel types such as the Jewish Post, February 14, 1958, which had an advertisement for a New York deli which sold a "New York Water and Pumpernickel Bagel." Ms. Baliska also mentioned in her book that during the mid-1950s, you could find Cinnamon Raisin and Onion bagels.

Bagel recipes continued to be published in various newspapers. The Boston Globe, April 2, 1958, printed a recipe for "Passover Bagel" but it didn't involved any boiling. In their June 12, 1958 issue though, they had another bagel recipe, and this one included the need for boiling. The June 29, 1958 issue then printed a slight correction to that recipe. The Salt Lake Tribune, November 28, 1958, as well as their June 26, 1959 issue, printed bagel recipes that included boiling. The Pittsburgh Sun-Telegraph, April 22, 1959 printed a Passover recipe for the bagel, but it didn't include boiling.

Hawaiian bagels? In a fascinating story, the Honolulu Star Bulletin, April 1, 1959, related the tale of Yun Yau Kam, maybe only Chinese bagel baker in the world. Based in Moiliili, Honolulu, he has been baking bagels for about four years. Initially, a friend of his wrote to the Jewish Bakers' Association in NY, asking for their bagel recipe so that they could provide to the local Jewish community. He received the authentic formula, which Kam quickly memorized and then "lost," refusing to reveal his ingredients and practices to others. He now make about 50 dozen bagels once a week for the Hawaiian Jewish community.

Prior to the 1960s, Ms. Balinska wrote that "...the cellar bakeries had sold their bagels wholesale to delicatessens, supermarkets and other bakeries." So, when a customer purchased a bagel, it wasn't fresh and hot out of the oven. Thus, toasting the bagel was common. However, as the 1960s began, technology began to change the nature of bagel bakeries, bringing them out of the cellars and onto street level. As she wrote, "For the bakery ‘bosses’ of the Bagel Bakers’ Association, the arrival of operations at street level was a business revelation. Consumers paid more than the retailer and could not get enough of the freshly baked hot bagel, something which had not been available in the days of wholesale. Blinking neon ‘HOT BAGELS’ signs were soon gracing the store windows of bakeries across the city." Nowadays, people may take for granted being able to buy a fresh, hot bagel but that wasn't always the case.

Previously, I mentioned the first reference I found to pizza bagels in 1948 in New Jersey. However, the Miami News, February 25, 1960, reported that the pizza bagel had been "invented by Arthur Adler of the Leamington, Ponce de Leon and Allison Hotels, and later swiped by Wolfie Cohen when he ran Pumpernik's." The article doesn't provide a date when Adler allegedly invented the pizza bagel. A couple other newspaper articles claim he invented the pizza bagel, but again, no details were provided. I suspect he might have been the first to make pizza bagels in the Florida area, but I don't believe he invented them. If so, there likely would have been additional references to his creations much earlier than 1960.

As the 1960s began, plenty of bagel varieties were being sold by various bakeries. The Cincinatti Enquirer, March 16, 1960, had an ad for plain and poppy seed bagels. The Valley News. January 20, 1961 (Van Nuys, CA) talked about the Western Bagel Baking Co. which makes a variety of bagels, such as onion, salted, poppyseed, egg, and water bagels. The Miami News, March 21, 1961 reported on the Hot Bagels Shops, which sell 6 varieties, including plain, salt, pumpernickel, onion, egg, and garlic. The Ithaca Journal, April 25, 1961, noted that Abel Bagels sells onion, egg, and water bagels.

Though The Philadelphia Inquirer, April 6, 1961, provided a bagel recipe, which included boiling, it noted that "There was a time, says the Jewish Festival Cookbook, when every Jewish housewife cherished her recipe for bagels." That seems to indicate that less and less people were making bagels at home.

Another bagel strike struck in February 1962. The Jewish Post, February 16, 1962, reported that 289 bagel bakers in New Jersey and New York went on strike, affecting 85% of New York City's bagel supply. The union wanted three week’s vacation with pay instead of two, fourteen holidays a year instead of eleven and wage increases.

The Miami News, November 11, 1962, wrote about Beach Bagel Bakeries, in South Beach, which makes 900 dozen bagels a night, including egg and water bagels. The Brooklyn Daily Eagle, January 12, 1963, noted a Brooklyn restaurant created a twisted bagel, resembling a pretzel. It simply seemed to be a different shape.

Technology was starting to impact the bagel industry. For example, The News, March 20, 1963 (NJ) described how Harold Paitchell received a patent for a bagel bending machine, which "bangs dough into bagel bloops ready for cooking." The Rockland County Journal-News, March 27, 1963 (NY) had an ad which is one of the first references to frozen bagels. The ad was for Abel's Frozen Bagels, noting that they are available in all varieties, in a 6 pack for 29 cents. This is about the same time that Lender's Bagels began selling their own frozen bagels in 6 packs. The Daily News, October 9, 1963,  also had an advertisement for frozen bagels, the Bagel King Bagels, which were available in plain, onion, and pumpernickel, in a package of 6, also for 29 cents.

How many bagels were being consumed during this time period? Well, the South Bend Tribune, December 15, 1963 (Indiana) provided a figure, stating that in New York, about 2 million bagels were sold each week. That would be over 100 million bagels in a year, and doesn't include bagels consumed outside of New York.

The F&M College Reporter (April 3, 1964--Illinois) perpetuated some of the common myths about the origins of bagels, stating they were invented in Vienna around 1683, a claim Ms. Balinska thoroughly refutes. The article goes into length concerning out bagel issues. For example, it states, "To the purist, there is only one true bagel. It is handmade from white wheat gluten flour, salt water, malt, and and yeast, and simmered in hot water for two minutes before it is baked. A few flakes of onion or garlic are grudgingly permitted as a sign of the times, but other varieties of the Bagel are considered rolls with holes in them and not Bagels." The article continues on the number of bagel bakeries in NYC, "In New York City, 36 bakeries turn out nothing but Bagels at the rate of a quarter million per day and three times that many on the weekends when 60% of all Bagel are sold."

"Green" bagels? No, I'm not talking about St. Patrick's Day bagels. The Daily News, April 23, 1964 (NY) reported that a bagel baker, age 28, was arrested for selling marijuana. He claimed that he bought the weed from another bagel maker, and then sold it to adolescents and older people.

The Akron Beacon Journal, May 2, 1964, stated that National Bagel Day was May 5, celebrated by the University of Akron's Alpha Epsilon Pi fraternity. However, this actually appears to be more of a floating holiday, celebrated only by the fraternity. The May 20, 1967 issue stated National Bagel Day was celebrated on May 19 by the fraternity and the June 7, 1969 issue said National Bagel Day was celebrated on June 6. The Chicago Tribune, October 26, 1969, had an ad for Begun's of Elmhurst, which appears to be mainly a clothes store, and they declared National Bagel Day to be October 26, though they repeated the day four times, on a weekly basis.

More information on the bagel's origins are found in the Jewish Post, July 3, 1964, especially concerning the term itself. "There is no Word in the German language Corresponding to the Yiddish word “baigle.” The root "baign” is derived from the German (to bend or to bow) in Yiddish "bogen.” But the formation "baigle” is purely Yiddish — which shows, of course, that Yiddish is a language by its own right and not a mere corrupted German. "Baigle” or "beigel” is the root “baign” or "beign” with the diminutive ending "1.” In German, if there were such a word, it would be "boegelein.” But there isn’t."

A differing view comes from the Jewish Post (July 24, 1964), where is it mentioned that, "The bagel originally came from the province of Silesia where it was known as a "bcugel.” The Jews in their migrations picked it up, adopted it and carried it with them as they moved eastward."

Though most bagel bakeries were located in New York, there were a small number of others across the country. The Chicago Tribune, December 20, 1964, wrote about the Litberg's Bryn Mawr Bagel Bakery, one of only two bagel bakeries in Chicago. Owned by Abe and Sam Litburg, their father, who was originally from Kiev, had opened the original bakery back in 1925. They now produce about 11,000 bagels each week. For some perspective, remember that New York produces a total of about 2 million bagels each week. The article discussed bagel purists, who only accept water bagels, and those outsell others by 20 to 1. Purists also see "pumpernickel, rye and whole wheat and poppy seed rolls as 'just rolls with holes.'

Finally, the article notes that the immersion of the dough into boiling water cooks away the starch, which helps to reduce the calories of a bagel. Thus, bagels are said to have only 50 calories while a slice of white bread has 72 calories. That is fascinating as modern bagels are now said to have an average of 250-300 calories. Even modern mini-bagels are said to have about 100 calories. So, what is the difference, reflective of the calorie disparity, between the bagels from the 1960s and those of the present era?

To Be Continued....

Part 1
Part 3

(Please note that this is a significantly expanded/revised version of a prior article I wrote on bagel history. It has more than tripled in length.)

Water Doughnuts: Some Bagel History (Part 1)

"The Ba’al Shem Tov tries to impress on a simpleton the value of a bagel. It is of such worth, he says, that even a non-Jew will help you if you throw him a bagel."
--The Bagel: The Surprising History of a Modest Bread by Maria Balinska (2008)

What is the origin of the bagel? When did it first come to the U.S.? During the last 100 years, what have been some of the highlights of the history of bagels? Maybe the most definitive history is The Bagel: The Surprising History of a Modest Bread by Maria Balinska. Though small, the book contains plenty of fascinating information on the bagel's history, as well as dispelling some of the myths around the bagel's origins.

In addition, the book provides some information on the bagel's place in the U.S., primarily New York, during the 20th century. Because of the small size of her book, it couldn't be comprehensive so I want to add some additional information about the bagel. I've searched through various newspaper archives, looking through many thousands of bagel references, and can paint a fuller picture of the bagel's place in the U.S. More research is certainly warranted as well, and I may expand this article in the future.

As a start, let's begin with a brief summary of the bagel's origins as provided by Ms. Balinksa. The first document that referenced a bagel was in Kraków in 1610, a sumptuary law concerning the celebrations surrounding the circumcision of a baby boy. Ms. Balinska also wrote that, "Jewish documents and expert opinion concurs that the word bagel comes from the Yiddish beigen, to bend, which in turn is related to bouc, the word with the same meaning in Middle High German."

We can't be sure when the bagel first came to the U.S. but Balinska believes it was most likely during a large wave of Jewish immigration from 1881-1914. About the same time as a bagel tradition began in New York, one also began in Montreal, though both areas would eventually become known for their own different style of bagel.

Today, both bagel styles have their own fervent advocates. For example, Joan Nathan, author of the King Solomon's Table: A Culinary Exploration of Jewish Cooking From Around The World, wrote that, "... a Montreal-style bagel--thinner and smaller, but with salt and less sweetness. This "new" style of bagel is what bagels uses to be like. The water may not be New York's, but I argue that the bagels as just as good, and maybe even better."

It is intriguing that in the U.S., bagels are commonly restricted to breakfast or brunch, especially on Sundays. During my search of newspaper archives, I found many references to lox and bagel breakfasts and brunches. However, Baliska mentioned that back in Europe, "Bagels were popular tavern fare. Jewish immigrants to the United States recall parents making bagels to be served at the inn: ‘An onion, schnapps and a bagel’ would have been a typical order." Before Jews embraced bagel and lox, they might have paired bagels and alcohol in the U.S. too.

Have you ever seen an American bar or tavern that served bagels? Would you order a bagel with a cocktail, a glass of wine, or a beer? I am very curious as to why this tradition didn't carry over to the U.S. What occurred to transform this tavern fare into breakfast fare?

The Encyclopedia of Jewish Food, by Gil Marks, offers a possible answer to this last question. "When during the 1930s, many Jews abstained from eating the then-stylish but unkosher American Sunday brunch classic, eggs Benedict, they substituted lox slices for the ham, a schmear of cream cheese for the hollandaise sauce, and a bagel for the English muffin. Thus was born an American classic. Neither lox nor cream cheese had ever touched a bagel in Europe." This raises the question then as to how Jews were eating bagels before the 1930s. Beer and bagels? Maybe.

While researching the history of bagels, I found many things which were utterly fascinating and I hope my readers find it equally as fascinating, and that they also gain a deeper appreciation for the bagel.

The Encyclopedia of Jewish Food also claimed that the term "bagel" first appeared in an English-language American newspaper in 1932. However, I found seven articles that predate 1932, and suspect more might exist as well. The earliest newspaper reference I located was in the Hartford Courant, March 7, 1926, in an article about a young basketball team. While traveling through Albany, the team only had $1 for food, so what could they buy to feed the team? Someone advised that they should purchase "bagels", which were described as "Sort of Jewish roll" and that "...you get lots of 'em and they last long."

The next article I found was in The Standard Union, May 4, 1928 (NY), which posted a humorous article,  in a funny accent, with the line, "...wan cupp kuffeh weet a coppleh bagels..." There was another brief mention in The Minneapolis Star, December 1, 1928, in an article discussing an annual food bazaar held at a synagogue. Mrs. I.D. Schulman was noted as being in charge of pies, strudel and bagel. Next, in the Austin American-Statesman, February 14, 1930 (TX), there was an advertisement for Aunt Betty's Bakery, which offered "Shobishhollie & Bagels--light and dark rye." Shobishhollie is Challah bread that is made specifically for the Shabbath.

The first more significant reference, as well as the first bagel recipe, is found in the Courier-News, March 21, 1930 (NJ) in an article of recipes for biscuits, muffins and rolls. The recipe was listed as "Bagel (Pretzel Roll)" and the ingredients included 1 cup scalded milk, 1/4 cup butter, 1 1/2 tablespoon sugar, 1 yeast cake, 1 egg (white), and 3 3/4 cup flour. The recipe gave instructions which included cooking the dough in near boiling water before they went into the oven. Do you know anyone who has made bagels at home? I don't.

The Jewish Criterion, December 26, 1930, discussed the Caplan Baking Company, which is in their 50th year of business. They bake items including bagel, rye bread, chaos, cakes, and matzos. The article also states that their products will now be available at Klein's Delicatessan and Restaurant.

How much did bagels cost during this time period? The Daily Journal, November 27, 1931 (NJ) had an advertisement for Freedman's Bakery which mentions "Water Bagel" for 24 cents a dozen. Two cents for a bagel! This is the first price for bagels that I found as well as the first reference to a "water bagel" though that term wasn't explained in the ad. A different price was listed in The Tampa Tribune, April 15, 1932, with a deli ad mentioning that a dozen bagels cost 18 cents.

Bagel sales could be contentious. The Daily News, March 3, 1932 (NY) published an article, Jewish Bagel Peddler Held In Trade Row, which stated, "An argument over the sale of bagels, a form of Jewish bread, yesterday led to a charge of felonious assault against one of the contestants." The fight occurred between a 63 year old man and a 70 year old man who encountered each other at about 2:15am. One of the men believed the other was infringing on his territory for bagel sales so he struck him in the head with a lead pipe. The injury wasn't too serious, only needing four stitches but the assailant was arrested.

The Wilkes-Barre Times Leader, March 15, 1932 (PA) had an ad for Spitz's Kosher Delicatessen mentioning "Rye Bread, Poppy Seed Rolls or Bagel." The Wilkes-Barre Recorder, May 12, 1932 (PA) reported that The Real Rye Baking, Co. recently opened a retail store The owner mentioned that during the past several years, they "..have built up a fine patronage for our rye bread, rolls, bagels, twists, and pastries."

Another bagel recipe was provided in The Des Moines Register, June 19, 1932, in an article on Jewish recipes. The ingredients included one cake compressed yeast, 1/4 cup cold water, 3 cups warm water, 4 egg yolks, 2 teaspoons salt, 1 tablespoon sugar, 1/4 cup vegetable oil, and 10 & 1/2 cups sifted flour. This recipe called for placing the dough in rapidly boiling water before being put in oven, a slight difference from the "near boiling water" of the previous recipe.

The Tampa Bay Times, December 7, 1932, had an ad for Green's Sunshine Delicatessen, which states they "handling a full line of European breads" and it includes "strudel and bagel."

During this time period, many people didn't know what a bagel was so some newspapers needed to explain what they were to their readers. The Billings Gazette, February 19, 1933 (Montana), in an article on bakeshops, mentioned that "The round doughnut-shaped roll with a glossy surface, ..., is a German bagel. In texture and hardness it resembles a pretzel, mainly because its dough consists only of flour, water, and yeast. This mixture produces a pure white compact crumb. The center is soft, however. Because of its hard surface, it is a delicious accompaniment to a cup of hot coffee."

The Chicago Tribune, October 27, 1933, noted that they have received many requests for Jewish recipes, so they have compiled a number of recipes into a booklet, Prize Recipes From Jewish Kitchens, and it includes a recipe for bagels. The booklet could be picked up at the Tribune office for 2 cents, or mailed to you for 3 cents.

More bagel prices information. The Winona Daily News, November 14, 1933 (Minnesota) had an ad for the Sanitary Fish Market, which mentions it has a Kosher Delicatessen Department which has bagels for sale. Their current price is 20 cents for a dozen bagels. The Herald-News, September 6, 1934 (NJ) reported that some were going to boycott bakeries in Passaic in opposition to their recent increase in prices. The new price of bagels was 20 cents for a dozen, a raise of only 2 cents from the prior price of 18 cents.. The bakers claimed to have incurred additional expenses of about 45%, yet only raised their prices by 10%. For example, the price of flour had basically doubled in the past year. The cost of sugar had risen by 35%.

The Arizona Daily Star, December 11, 1934 had an ad for Ar-Jay Stores, noting they are "importers of fancy delicacies" which include bagel.

In another contentious bagel issue, the Journal News, May 16, 1935 (NY) had a brief article about a lawsuit involving a bagel. The article stated, "A "bagel" was the bone of contention in County Court at New City this morning in a suit brought by Alexander Green of Spring Valley against Mager and Thorn, et al., a New York City baking firm. "Bagel" it developed, is a type of Jewish roll and Green sued for $3,000 for injuries alleged to have been received when he ate a bagel." Unfortunately, few details are provided and it didn't describe the nature of the injury. However, the article did mention that the defendants denied making the bagel and the parties eventually agreed to discontinue the case.

The Wisconsin Jewish Chronicle, February 21, 1936, published a joke about bagels. "Customer: Are those bagels fresh? Clerk: I don't know, madam, I've only been here a week."

The Tampa Times, March 13, 1936, had an ad for the Tampa Baking Co. which bakes bagels.

Another legal matter involving bagels was described in the Brooklyn Daily Eagle, October 22, 1936, in an article titled, Suspect Arraigned In Jewish Roll Theft. A man was charged with petty larceny, accused of stealing a dozen bagels every day for two weeks. the alleged thief was tracked down to a dairy store, where he was trying to sell the bagels. The article states a bagel is a "Jewish roll," continuing to educate non-Jewish people who weren't familiar with the bagel.

Bagels can also help bring people together. The Miami News, December 17, 1936 reported, "To shatter the rumor of a feud between them, Milton Berle and Henny Youngman of the Yacht club, settle down at a central table in Dave's Wednesday night and share a bagel."

The Arizona Daily Star, October 31, 1937, had a classified ad for the Royal Delicatessen & Liquor Store, mentioning they sell "Fresh rolls and bagels."

The Des Moines Register, November 20, 1938, reported that Mommy's opened in Des Moines, being the first kosher style cafe to open in ten years. Bagels are one of the items on their menu.

Looking back at these newspaper articles, from 1926 to 1938,  you can see that bagels were being consumed all across the country, from New York to Florida, Arizona to Minnesota. However, they were being primarily consumed by Jewish people, and many non-Jews weren't familiar with the bagel. There is also an intriguing grammatical issue that can be seen in these articles, that some use the term "bagel" for both the singular and plural forms. Others use "bagels" for the plural form. I'll talk more about that later in this article.

The Detroit Free Press, February 21, 1939, published an article about unusual foods, which included a visit to a Polish bakery. The article began, "Have you ever gone into a Polish bakery? Where bagels are strung up the side of the windward there are so many exciting breads all over the place that you don't know where to look first?" It then continued to describe bagels, "They are those big fat pretzel-looking things stuck onto the improvised holder..." (pictured above). They asked the bakery, "What do you do with them?" The response was, "Tis said babies teeth on them, children have them with milk after school hours and even poppa serves them (with beer) when friends drop in for an evening of cards." They also noted the bagels cost 25 cents a pound.

This article is especially interesting as it makes a connection between bagels and beer, harkening back to Europe when bagels were consumed in taverns. It seems some of that pairing may have traveled to America, and might have been the norm before bagel and lox became so ubiquitous. Nowadays, would anyone have a poker game at home and serve bagels and beer? Highly unlikely.

There was an ad in the Jewish Post, July 28, 1939 (Indianapolis) for the South Side Baking Co., detailing which stores carried their "Bagel." This usage, as well as a number of other bakery and deli ads during this time period seems to indicate that the plural form of bagel may simply be "bagel." However, there were other ads which used "bagels" as a plural form. There were also a couple "letters to the editors" that I found that argued over which term was correct. Subsequent research seems to indicate that in Yiddish, the plural form would be "bagel" but under English usage, the plural would actually be "bagels."

Bagels figured into some songs, and one is mentioned in The Morning Post, October 5, 1939 (NJ). : "Frances Faye, whose racy songs and piano thumping entertain the people who stay up until 4 in the ante meridian. Her newest ditty: "Shoot The Bagels to Me, Hymie Boy." Frances was a Jewish singer and pianist, well known for double entendres alluding to her bisexuality.

The Post-Star, February 8, 1940 (NY) published an ad from the Queen City Bakery which states they are now baking "Bagel, Bagel and More Bagel." The Pantagraph, January 14, 1941 (Illinois) mentioned that Lutz's Food Mart will soon receive a delivery, which will include "Rosen's famous bagels."

The Indianapolis Star, June 1, 1941, had an article about a Broadway entertainer, describing his use of "bagel" as slang. "A bagel is a tasty delicacy shaped like a doughnut and made of vulcanized flour covered over with an edible shellac. In Broadway conversation, it can mean what 'the bacon' means off Broadway."

The Daily News, June 12, 1941 (NY) printed that "The Q-Gee Shop on Sixth Avenue is featuring a Convoy Special--a bagel and lox sandwich, supported by two pickles on the side." This is the first reference I have found to the pairing of bagel and lox. The Daily News, September 4, 1941, also had a mention of an order of "One cream cheese and lox on a bagel." Though it is likely bagel and lox were being enjoyed before this time, it just hadn't been discussed in the newspapers previously.

More bagel prices. The Evening News, June 17, 1941 (PA) wrote about The Metropolitan Opera House, which had a store on the 7th Avenue side, "a milk bar featuring cream cheese on a bagel for a nickel." However, prices seemed to be increasing, as noted in The Herald-News, July 25, 1941 (NJ),  which wrote that local Kosher restaurants were unhappy about the rising prices of bakery goods. The wholesale cost of bagels had risen from 7 cents to 21 cents a dozen. A three-fold increase is certainly significant. The Record, December 18, 1941 (NJ) published an ad for the Big Bear Super Markets, that listed 3 bagels for five cents, which would be 20 cents a dozen. Maybe the wholesale price increase was only a short term measure.

The Brooklyn Daily Eagle, February 10, 1942, mentions how comedian Henny Youngman explained that a bagel was "an unsweetened non-Aryan version of a doughnut."

Also in Brooklyn Daily Eagle, April 5, 1942, there was a report of a bagel-involved crime. Jacob Rubin, described as "short, fat, bald, toothless and middle-aged, is still called the "Russian Romeo." He was arrested for luring a woman, with a bagel, to his room and then keeping her locked there for ten days. This was the fourth time that he was arrested for an "amatory episode."

Soldiers enjoy bagels too! The Democrat and Chronicle, April 30, 1942 (NY) detailed a story where Jewish soldiers, at the Pine Camp and Madison barracks, were sent bagels from the Rochester Bakers Union and USO. The bagels were said to be "..the round rolls, which Jews like to eat with coffee and a fish called lox,..." Another incident was detailed in The Jewish Post, June 12, 1942 concerning a buffet offered at a USO club. This was attended by a new army division, composed primarily of "Indians." One of them wanted a fish sandwich and was given lox on a bagel. He didn't know what lox was but must have enjoyed it as he came back the next day for more lox.

The St. Louis Post-Dispatch, February 10, 1943 reported a Lox & Bagel party, held by the U.S.O., for servicemen. The Monroe Enquirer, July 10, 1943 (NC) also reported on a U.S.O. event, a Bagel Buffet Supper.

The Evening Herald. December 23, 1943 (PA) had an ad for the Harris Bakery, offering a dozen Hard Bagels for 25 cents. The Town Talk, December 30, 1943 (Louisiana) also had an ad, though for a Kosher Delicatessen, offering bagels for sale, though no price was given.

One of the most amusing stories I read about bagels involved a theft of a bagel truck. The Mercury, February 15, 1944 (PA), described an incident in New York: "The theft of a truckload of 1560 bagels today confronted police with a mystery--they wanted to know what a bagel was." This was Manhattan's first crime of this type, and it appears the police didn't have any Jewish friends who might have previously introduced them to bagels. It still was primarily a Jewish item, largely unknown to the general public. "Sam Eder, of Fischer's Bagel bakery explained. A bagel is a roll with a hole in the middle. Some people like them for breakfast."

Numerous other newspapers around the country wrote about this story, mostly varying in the headline. For example, The Atlanta Constitution, February 15, 1944 (GA) ran the headline, "Police Need Dictionary to Find 1,560 Bagels." Most of the articles noted that the police found the stolen truck, abandoned, and all of the bagels were still in it. However, the bakery had already made replacement bagels and delivered them by taxi cab. The Daily News, February 15, 1944 (NY) clarified the details, stating that the truck had been stolen from in front of a restaurant. When the truck was recovered, 4 bagels were missing, so the police suspected the thief merely wanted breakfast and a joy ride. This article also described that, "Bagels are glazed, doughnut-shaped rolls that taste like unsalted pretzels."

Bagel recipes have been published by newspapers before, indicating some home cooks were preparing them. The Morning Herald, March 6, 1944 (MD) mentioned a home cooking demo,  by two Jewish women, that included bagel preparation. Doesn't seem like many people are making their own bagels nowadays.

I was fascinated to learn that "bagel" and "bagel and lox" ended up as slang in the sports betting arena, though they don't appear to be used any longer. The Courier-Post, March 22, 1944 (NJ), in discussing sports betting, stated that, "In the bookmakers vernacular, 'bagel with lox' means that the books have won all the money." The Daily News, December 7, 1944 (NY) also repeated this bit of slang, that "lox and bagel is where bookies win all the money." Seven years later, there was a different use, as printed in the Democrat & Chronicle, March 28, 1951 (NY). The term "bagel" indicated, "To make two bents on two competing teams, and manipulate the odds that both bets can be won." After this time, I didn't find any similar references in my research.

In another amusing tale, the Democrat & Chronicle, April 30, 1944, discussed Captain Arthur Isaac, a bombardier who went to England about a year ago and dropped bagels on the Germans. He stated, "What's a bagel? It's a kosher doughnut, a kind of cruller with hardening of the arteries. Mom's were pretty stale by the time they reached me in England, so I took 'em along to Frankfurt, and dropped a few."

The St. Louis Star & Times, July 3, 1944 details the story of Broadway Rose, a panhandler with a five-figure income! The article states, "her favorite sandwich is a lox-and-cream-cheese on a bagel. (Lox is a spicy variety of smoked salmon, and the bagel is a hard roll in the shape of a doughnut)."

More bagel prices! The Republican & Herald, December 23, 1945 had a bakery ad, that offered a dozen "Hard Bagels" for 25 cents. The Lubbock Morning Avalanche, December 28, 1945 provided an ad for The Food Mart, noting a dozen "bagel rolls" were 40 cents.

The Oakland Tribune, May 22, 1946, published an article about the Oakland Jewish Community Center, including mentioning the various weekly events held there. On Wednesdays, the canteen serves dinner, and the article states, "The piece de resistance is lox and bagle. Lox is smoked salmon and cream cheese and bagel is hard rolls shaped like doughnuts. There are lox and bagle clubs all over the East, with a "King Lox" and a 'Queen Bagel."

The Sentinel, October 24, 1946 (PA) had a record advertisement, including a song, Dunkin' Bagel, by Slim Gaillard, a jazz singer.  You can watch a video of him perform this song on YouTube. The Record-Argus, March 28, 1952 (PA) noted that Slim performed an alternate version, "Dunking Bagels in Bourbon," on Broadway. I haven't been able to find more about this sing, but Slim was known to enjoy bourbon, often referring to it as "bourbon-arooni," so might have dunked his bagels in bourbon. For another bagel song, the San Anselmo Herald, October 24, 1946 (CA) ran a record ad that mentioned a song, Bagel & Lox, by Eddie "Rochester," which other newspapers note is sung by The Charioteers.

On November 8, 1946, the Jewish Post reported the local bagel bakers were on strike, but no details were given. Ms. Baliska wrote about the New York Bagel Bakers Union, Local 338 of the Bakery and Confectionery Workers’ International, which was founded in 1937 and dominated bagel production until the late 1960s. As she wrote, "The 1950s would see the high point in the union’s fortunes, an extraordinary time when it was impossible to sell a bagel in New York City without their say-so."

To Be Continued....

Part 2
Part 3

(Please note that this is a significantly expanded/revised version of a prior article I wrote on bagel history. It has more than tripled in length.)

Supporting The Passionate Foodie

On Thursday, May 9, The Passionate Foodie will celebrate is 12th Anniversary! During that time, I've written over 4500 articles, covering a wide range of food and drink topics. As I still love writing these articles, as my passion has not dimmed, I hope to continue doing so for years to come.

During all these years, I've never had any advertising on my blog. Thus, the blog itself generates no income. Freelance writing is also very tough, with far too many publications unwilling to pay much, if anything, for articles. And sometimes, these publications want you to write about their advertisers, even if you don't believe they belong in your article. However, recently, content creators have seen a number of ways, such as Patreon, where their readers can provide some support.

I've decided to join Ko-fi (http://ko-fi.com/richardauffrey), where my readers can donate to support my work. If you enjoy my articles, if you find value in my food and drink posts, then you now have the ability to send me a donation so that I can continue to provide the content you enjoy. On my blog, you will also see a Ko-fi button in the left side column. As a start, I've set an initial goal to raise $150 so that I can gain access to a paid newspaper archive that contains millions of valuable articles, which help fuel my historical articles. All donations will go to help me generate additional content for The Passionate Foodie blog.

This is an experiment and I'll reassess this idea in the near future. This is a tough time for freelance writers and we have been discussing ways to continue our work. Some have gone to newsletters, others have upped their advertising. I've chosen to try Ko-fi, hoping my readers have found value in my numerous articles.

So please considering supporting The Passionate Foodie and helping me reach my 20th Anniversary!

Rant: Drink More Warm Sake!

"I like sake. Especially when it’s served at the correct temperature, 98.4 degrees Fahrenheit, like this is.”
--James Bond in You Only Live Twice (1967)

My first experience with Sake was at a Chinese restaurant where I ordered a tokkuri of hot Sake. The drinks menu didn't even list the brand of Sake. When it arrived at my table, the server poured some of the hot Sake into my ochoko. As I lifted the tiny cup to my nose, fumes from the Sake assaulted my eyes, almost like paint thinner. It was much too hot and wasn't pleasant in the least. Unfortunately, my experience is far too common and many people who have had a similar one believe they dislike all Sake.

Fortunately for me, I gave chilled Sake a chance and fell in love with it. Most premium Sake is best when serve slightly chilled, however there are exceptions. Over this weekend, I dined at Kamakura, a Japanese restaurant owned by Chef Youji Iwakura, and enjoyed a superb kaiseki dinner. Kamakura has an excellent Sake menu, including five Sakes which are served warm, available in 5 or 10 ounce chirori, metal vessels. We chose to start off the evening with one of those warm Sakes, the Shinkame 2 Year Aged Junmai.

Shinkame, which translates as "holy turtle," is a Sake brewery that specifically produces premium Sake intended to be served warm. It has only been available in Massachusetts within the last few years. The Sake was served warm, and not burning hot like you find at far too many Asian restaurants. And it was absolutely delicious, with plenty of complexity and umami. In addition, at different temperatures, such as when it cooled down a little, the flavor profile of the Sake changed and it was fascinating to monitor its progress. It also paired well with our initial food dishes. It is an experience more people should try.

Burning hot Sake may be on the endangered list as new restaurants are popping up in the Boston+ area that are serving properly warmed Sake. Besides Kamakura, two other fine examples are Pabu and Momi Nonmi which both have excellent Sake programs that include warm Sake.

I want everyone to start drinking more warm Sake! 

Let's first take a peek into the history of warm Sake. The first historical written references to warmed Sake were between 905 and 927 AD., so it may have originated sometime in the 9th century. By the early 17th century, it became common to drink warmed Sake between the 9th day of the 9th month, called the Chrysanthemum Festival, and the 3rd day of the 3rd month of the following year, called the Plum Festival. Essentially, they were generally drinking warmed Sake during the winter months. Around the start of the 18th century or so, numerous people started drinking warmed Sake year round. Only a few decades before that happened, the written character for kan, the general term for "warm Sake," was created.

There are different theories for why the Japanese started to drink warm Sake though the most plausible seems to be for health reasons. In China, people had been drinking warmed alcohol in the winter for many centuries and eventually this practice likely made its way to Japan. In some Eastern health traditions, eating and drinking warmed items is thought to be much better than cold things, which were thought to chill the the body. So staying warm in the winter and overall health seem to have been the driving factors. A Japanese philosopher and scientist, Kaibara Ekiken, also wrote a book stating that drinking warmed Sake improves the circulation of your chi, life force.

Heating cheap Sake also made it taste better, covering its flaws. With the advent in Japan of premium Sake, such as more complex Ginjo and Daiginjo Sakes, chilled Sake started to take hold, as heating was often thought to take away some of the more delicate flavors in these more highly polished Sakes. As such, many people now provide general advice to drink premium Sake slightly chilled, and for most cases it probably is excellent advice. However, there is definitely premium Sake that can be drank warm, but it is more difficult to explain to someone about these exceptions, to tell them which Sakes should be drank warm, and how they should be warmed, Sometimes the back label of a Sake bottle will recommend serving temperatures, but that is not always the case.

Sake shows different flavor profiles, dependent on its temperature. In general, the higher the temperature, the sweeter the Sake will seem. Sake also contains different types of acids, from malic acid to succinic acid, and each acid has a specific temperature that will make it more dominant. For example, succinic acid tends to dominate more at higher temperatures, while malic acid is more prominent at lower temperatures. As such, there is no one perfect temperature to taste a Sake. The flavor profile will vary, dependent on the temperature, so the optimum temperature will come down to your personal preference.

Check out any of the three restaurants I mentioned and try some warm Sake. Experience its complexity and intriguing flavors. See how the Sake changes as the temperature varies. See how well warm Sake can pair with various foods. Put yourself in the hands of the Sake sommeliers and let them guide you on your warm Sake journey.

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I am back again with a new edition of Thursday Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting, upcoming food & drink events.
**********************************************************
1) Share Our Strength Founder and CEO Billy Shore, Boston's top bartenders and local food/drink enthusiasts will eat, drink, and socialize for a good cause throughout May.

Shake It Up with Boston Society on Monday, May 6th: To celebrate the countdown to Boston’s Taste of the Nation, SOS is launching a kick-off event for Boston Society. From 6 to 8 p.m. at Shore Leave on Monday May 6th, guests will enjoy sips and bites while learning more about the Boston Society, a young professionals group dedicated to making no kid hungry a reality in Boston and across America.

The Shake Up Competition from Wednesday, May 1st through Friday, May 31st: Further celebrating the countdown to Boston’s Taste of the Nation, SOS is hosting its first annual Shake Up competition a four-week cocktail competition where Boston’s top bars compete to be crowned cocktail champions while raising funds for SOS' mission!

Each participating bar will feature a signature No Kid Hungry cocktail on their menu for the entirety of May. A portion of each cocktail purchased will be donated to Boston’s Taste of the Nation for No Kid Hungry. The restaurant who has raised the most by the end of May will be featured at Boston’s Taste of the Nation with a premier set-up alongside Shake Up sponsor Hotaling & Co. Participating restaurants including Back Bar, Little Donkey, and Shore Leave.

To purchase tickets or for more information, please visit https://events.nokidhungry.org/events/kickoff-shake-boston-society/or https://events.nokidhungry.org/events/bostons-taste-nation/#theshakeup.

No Kid Hungry is a campaign of national anti-hunger organization Share Our Strength. No child should go hungry in America, but 1 in 5 kids will face hunger this year. Using proven, practical solutions, No Kid Hungry is ending childhood hunger today by ensuring that kids start the day with a nutritious breakfast and families learn the skills they need to shop and cook on a budget. When we all work together, we can make sure kids get the healthy food they need.

2) Chef David Vargas is planning to roast a pig with all the trimmings for a Cinco de Mayo Birthday Party at Vida Cantina in Portsmouth, NH. It’s been quite the year for Vargas, recognized by The James Beard Foundation as a Best Chef Northeast, Semi-finalist, and welcoming Food Network’s Chef Tyler Florence and his crew to Vida Cantina and Portsmouth as part of The Great Food Truck Race show. (A little known fact is that Vargas had his own food truck before Vida Cantina).

Come celebrate Vida Cantina’s 6th Birthday on Cinco de Mayo, Sunday, May 5, from 11am-9pm with special flights, bites, a pig roast, birthday specials and live music.

3) The Chamber Collaborative of Greater Portsmouth announces plans for the Seacoast’s annual salute to the summer season: Hit The Decks on Thursday, May 16. Dozens of restaurants, bars, breweries and several of the city’s shops and businesses will feature Hit The Decks specials. For example: Earth Eagle Brewing is opening its Beer Garden on May 16, as is the Portsmouth Brewery, complete with live music. Several restaurants are offering extended Happy Hour specials, and there will be plenty of specials on Sam Adams pints, Rose, Mojitos and Portsmouth Punch at participating restaurants and bars. And you will want to hit the shops when you hit the decks, with specials on sweatshirts, sunglasses, tote bags and more – everything you need for the summer season! Local inns and hotels are offering special Hit The Decks overnight rates with welcome amenities and upgrades. Please visit www.HitTheDecksPortsmouth.com for offers and up-to-date information. Hit The Decks will take place rain or shine.

The public is invited to the official Hit The Decks Kickoff Party at The River House, 53 Bow Street, Portsmouth, 4-6pm with Kayla from 100.3 WHEB, Greg & The Morning Buzz.

4) Executive Chef Robert Sisca of Bistro du Midi introduces seasonal tasting menus at this destination known for French cuisine inspired by coastal New England. The latest installment is his luxe Spring on the Garden tasting menu.

“I love spring and the thoughts of warm weather, flowers blooming and knowing summer is around the corner. Best of all, the ingredients are endless. From morel mushrooms, to wild ramps and soft shell crabs, there are so many flavors that inspire my me as I create new menus. Here at Bistro du Midi, we have one of the best views of spring overlooking the Boston Public Garden. Sometimes during the day, I take walks through the park where the colorful tulips and fresh greenery feed my creativity. With our new Spring on the Garden tasting menu, I intend to deliver my passion for this season’s best ingredients.” – Robert Sisca

The Spring on the Garden Chef’s tasting menu is available starting Friday, April 26 until late June. The price is $125 per person, with the optional wine pairing for an additional $75 per person.

SPRING ON THE GARDEN
--Yellowfin Tuna Crudo, wild sorrel, fiddle heads, fresh wasabi
Henriot, Brut Souverain, Champagne NV
--Jumbo White Asparagus, iberico ham, rhubarb, green almonds, white sturgeon caviar
Nigl, Freiheit, Gruner Veltliner, Kremstal, Austria 2017
--Crispy Soft Shell Crab, chorizo, morel mushrooms, arugula rabe, saffron aioli
La Chablisienne, Cote de Lechet 1er Cru, Chablis, Burgundy 2015
--Seared Hudson Valley Foie Gras, green strawberries, white chocolate foie gras truffle
Domaine Zind-Humbrecht, Gewurztraminer, Calcaire, Alsace 2016
--Hopkins Farm Lamb, grilled loin, doppio ravioli, ramps, huckleberry
Domaine du Vieux Telegraph, La Crau, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Rhône 2016
--Hazelnut Mousse, feuilletine, coconut-lime sorbet
Castelnau de Suduiraut, Sauternes, Bordeaux 2012