2015 3 Rings Shiraz: Deep Roots In Australian Wine

It all began with wine education...

In 1929, Alan Robb Hickinbotham was appointed the Deputy Principal of the Roseworthy Agricultural College, the first agricultural college in Australia, founded in 1883. Seven years later, Alan was partially responsible for establishing a Oenology curriculum at the college which quickly became well respected and eventually responsible for creating numerous important leaders in the wine industry. In 1971, descendants of Alan purchased land, and started growing grapes, mainly Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon, in what would become known as the esteemed Clarendon Vineyard.

Their grapes became quite well known and valued, some of the parcels sold to a few of the top wineries in Australia. They also produced some of their own wine, under various labels such as Hickenbotham Wines. Though they sold their Clarendon Vineyard in 2012, they still own other vineyards and are involved in multiple projects. For example, in 2004, David & Dena Hickinbotham and their son, Alan, decided to establish the 3 Rings brand, under III Rings Pty Ltd, choosing to work with famed winemaker Chris Ringland. The intent of this brand was to highlight Shiraz from the Barossa Valley, though they also make a Cabernet Sauvignon.

The vineyards for their 3 Rings Shiraz are an average age of 35 years, with soils that are primarily clay over slate bedrock. The grapes for their Reserve Shiraz are from a single vineyard, in the Kalimna sub-region of the Barossa, and the vines are an average of 85 years old, with soil that is mainly sandy loam over black clay.

I received a media sample of the 2015 3 Rings Shiraz ($19.99), which is made of 100% Shiraz, has an ABV of 14.9%, and only 6000 cases were made. I'm unsure of the oak treatment for this wine though clearly it was aged in oak for some amount of time. With a dark purple color, it possessed a nose of black fruits enhanced by spice notes. On the palate, it was a full bodied and muscular wine, with deep and complex flavors of plum, black pepper and raspberry, with a vein of pepper and other bold spices. However, it wasn't a jammy fruit bomb, and the alcohol was well balanced. The finish was fairly lengthy, the tannins bold but not overwhelming, and it has a spicy kick. The wine definitely would be best accompanied with a steak or similarly hearty dish.

This is a wine of power, but it isn't overpowering. The complex taste will please and with a juicy steak, the wine shines even greater. At $20, this Shiraz delivers a very good wine, worth the price. I definitely want to try their Reserve Shiraz, to experience that representation of Shiraz.

2015 Henry's Drive "H" Syrah: Australia Rocks Again!

As I mentioned in yesterday's Rant, it's time to reconsider the wines of Australia and I'm back with another Australian wine review, exploring a compelling expression of Syrah. This isn't a fruit bomb and showcases more of the elegance in Syrah.

Henry's Drive Vignerons is located in the wine region of Padthaway, in the southeast area of South Australia, a wine region that officially became an appellation in 1999. During the 19th century, horse drawn coaches provided transport to and from the farms and wineries in this region, and one of the coach drivers was Henry John Hill, whose route passed through land now owned by the Longbottom family, owners of the winery. Kim Longbottom and her late husband Mark chose to name their winery after this coach driver, a honor for his hard work and dedication, as well as a connection to their historic past.

Kim Longbottom, who hails from the region of Marlborough in New Zealand, and her late husband, Mark, planted their first vines in 1992, releasing their first wines in 1998. Currently, the property includes about 300 acres, of varied plots, with an additional 30 acres in the McLaren Vale. They grow a variety of grapes including Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Verdelho, Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay. The Padthaway region has a Mediterranean climate of warm dry summers with cool nights.

I received a media sample of their 2015 Henry's Drive "H" Syrah ($27.99), which is made from 100% Syrah, has a 14.1% ABV, and only about 750 cases were produced. Initially, the wine was  fermented on the skins for ten days and then underwent malolactic fermentation. It was then aged for for 15 months in French oak puncheons and hogsheads, which are 25% new, 25% one-year old, 20% two-year old, and the rest three-year old. The 2015 vintage in Padthaway was said to be an excellent one, with dry conditions throughout much of the season.

I found this wine to have a rich, red color and an appealing nose of blueberries and floral notes, with just a hint of spice. On the palate, there was an initial bust of bright fruit, cherry, raspberry and blueberries though it wasn't jammy in the least. As the taste progressed, there was an undertone of spice notes, especially on the finish. The tannins were well-integrated and the wine presented as silky and elegant, with a fairly lengthy and satisfying finish. Delicious and compelling, this is another wine that doesn't fit the old stereotype of Australian Shiraz.

I paired this wine with a dinner of Australian lollipop lamb chops and it was a very fine pairing, each enhancing the other. This wine earns a hearty recommendation, and is another example of the diversity that can now be found in Australian wine.

Rant: Let's Reconsider Australian Wine

"Global demand for Australian wine has fallen substantially since exports peaked in 2007;..."
--Market Watch (January/February 2019)

As I previously mentioned, I resolved this year to taste more Australian wines, to assess the diversity and quality that is now being produced in that country. I've recently tasted some excellent examples of Australian wines, such as the 2014 Shirvington Cabernet Sauvignon, which only had a 13% ABV. I certainly understand the reasons behind the decline in the popularity of Australian wines, but maybe it is now time to reconsider, to return to Australian wines and find new reasons to love their wines.

The recent issue of Market Watch (January/February 2019) published an intriguing article about the current status of Australian wines, noting the problems Australian wine has faced. "..., Australian wine exports were down 11% to 17.7 million cases in the fiscal year ended June 2018,..." However, they also noted that there have been some positive changes in recent years. For example, "In the calendar year ended November 4, 2018, Australia posted gains at the luxury ($20-$25 a 750ml) and super-luxury ($25-and-above) tiers,...growing 16.1% to 7.8 million cases and 15.4% to 3.1 millions cases in the U.S.,..." In addition, "The number of Australian wineries present in the U.S. has also risen in recent years, pushing to nearly 300 in 2018 after sinking to 234 just two years prior."

In 2017, close to 70% of Australian wine imports, about 11,714,000 cases, were encompassed by only ten wine brands. The top three Australian wine brands include Yellow Tail (7,350,000 cases but down 6.3% from 2016), Lindemans (1,332,000 cases but down 13.2% from 2016), and 19 Crimes (1,056,000 cases, which has about doubled since 2016). At the wine shop where I work, I see the huge popularity of Yellow Tail, and recently 19 Crimes has also been popular. It would be good if people could look past just these top ten brands and started exploring the greater diversity that Australia has to offer.

The Market Watch article noted ".., there's a lingering stagnation for the category at the retail end." Consumer education is needed, to make them cognizant in the changes in the Australian wine industry. Australian Shiraz was once vastly popular though they often showcased "...high-abv expressions of the grape that burst with bold, ripe flavors," also known as "fruit bombs." There was a backlash against these Australian fruit bombs, and I'll admit they turned me off from wanting to drink Australian wines.

However, changes have been made in Australia. For example, a number of wineries now highlight different expressions of Shiraz, presenting more diversity in the flavor profile of their wines. You can find plenty of Shiraz wines that are not fruit bombs. There has also been a move to highlight other regions of Australia, areas which have received little attention in previous years. These regions produce different wine styles, due to their different terroirs. In addition, wineries are using a wider array of grapes, from Chardonnay to Vermentino, Pinot Noir to Grenache.

There are plenty of reasons to reconsider Australian wine and now is the time to explore their wines. Broaden your vinous horizons, exploring different regions of Australia, different grapes and different expressions of Shiraz. I'll be continuing my own explorations of their wines and encourage all of my readers to join me on this journey.

2014 Shirvington Cabernet Sauvignon: A Compelling Australian Wine

One of my goals this year is to taste more Australian wines, to give them reconsideration and see whether they have changed during recent years. As I mentioned before, I have drank very few Australian wines in the last few years, having been turned off by the large amount of jammy fruit bombs that country seemed to produce for a time. I didn't want a sledgehammer of wine to assault my palate, but I rather desired wines with more subtlety and complexity. And I'm starting to realize that those jammy fruit bombs may not seem to be the norm any longer.

The Shirvington Winery, which is located in Willunga, just south of McLaren Vale, was founded in 1996 by Paul and Lynne Shirvington, with their sons Tony and Mark. Their first vineyard, about 16 hectares, was named Redwind, and they began by planting Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon, though it now includes Mataro (aka Mourvedre) too. The Redwind vineyard is at an elevation of about 50 meters, has red clay and limestone soil, and has a Mediterranean climate with maritime influences. They later purchased two additional vineyards, Kurrawyba (in McLaren Flat) and Manjalda (in McLaren Vale). All of their vineyards are sustainably farmed.

I received a media sample of their 2014 Shirvington Cabernet Sauvignon ($58.99), which is produced from 100% Cabernet Sauvignon, which was barrel fermented and then aged for 19 months in 100% French oak (33% new, 11% 1 year old, & 56% 2 year old). I was especially pleased to note that this wine only had a 13% ABV, indicative to me that this wine was unlikely a jammy fruit bomb. I also chose to pair this wine with Filet Mignon, figuring that it would work well with a nice piece of steak.

With a dark red, almost plummy color, the wine had an appealing nose of red fruits with subtle spice notes. On the palate, there was an initial taste of bright red fruits, cherry and raspberry, and on the finish it transformed so there were more black fruit, plum and black cherry, flavors. Throughout the complex palate, there were subtle spice notes, restrained tannins, and a hint of sweetness. It was a more elegant wine, with a lengthy, satisfying finish, and it was a delightful companion to the Filets. This Cabernet had more in common with European wines than California ones. Simply delicious and it earns a hearty recommendation.

Another win for Australian wines. And I have more reviews coming in the near future.

2018: Top Wines Over $50 (Plus My Wine of The Year)

What were some of my favorite wines of the past year?

Welcome to my third, and last, Top Wines List. I've already posted my Top Ten Wines Under $15 and Top Ten Wines Over $15 (But Under $50). It is now time for my Top Wines Over $50. This isn't a Top Ten list as there aren't always sufficient wines at this price point that I've tasted and deemed worthy for inclusion. Like the prior lists, this list includes wines that not only I enjoyed, but which I also found to be particularly compelling for various reasons. They might be especially delicious, something more unique or just excellent values for the price. They all stand out, for some particular reason, above the other wines at this price point that I have tasted this past year.

This is a purely subjective list, based on my own preferences, and makes no claims about being the "best" wines out there. It is primarily the wines which spoke to me the loudest, even when they were subtle wines. These are all wines that I highly recommend and which I believe many other wine lovers will also enjoy.

The wines are not listed in any particular order and each choice is linked to my more detailed prior review. All of these value wines are worth your consideration but please also note that the prices are approximations and the actual price may vary in your area. In addition, some of the wines might not be available in your local area, though you might be able to order them from the winery or an online store, dependent on your state's shipping laws.

I'm also going to note that this is the first year that I am announcing an overall Wine Of The Year! One wine simply stood out so much this year that I saw the need for such a declaration. And I will begin my list with that very wine...

1) Bodegas Yuste Conde de Aldama Amontillado Sherry ($210)
It was a very easy decision to select this phenomenal and unique Sherry as my Wine Of The Year. First, it may be the oldest wine I've ever tasted. This Sherry is an average of 130-150 years old, and its solera was begin sometime from 1740-1750, before the U.S. was even a country. Second, you need to read my detailed review for more details about its history and production, as well as my full tasting notes. For me, this wine may be as close to perfect as any wine will ever be. Third, it certainly helped that I shared this bottle with some very close friends at a fantastic birthday celebration. Fourth, even at this price point, I think the wine is a bargain and if I ever see it again on a wine store shelf, I'll buy it without question. How often can you say that about a $200 wine? I cannot recommend this wine highly enough.

2) 2014 San Felice Il Grigio Chianti Classico Gran Selezione ($50.99)
This Italian wine is a blend of 80% Sangiovese, with the rest a blend of indigenous grapes including Abrusco, Pugnitello, Malvasia Nera, Ciliegiolo and Mazzese. This is a WOW wine, impressive and compelling. The aromas seduce your nose, giving evidence of the quality that you'll find within the wine. On the palate, it is silky smooth, with plenty of complexity, including ripe plum, black cherry, mild spice notes, hints of earthiness, and wisps of additional flavors that seem to flit in and out. Well-balanced, fine acidity, and a lingering, satisfying finish. It is the epitome of elegance, a wine to slowly savor over the course of an evening, relishing each sip, finding new flavors within each taste.

3) Graham's 20 Year Old Tawny Port ($60-$65).
Port doesn't get enough attention, and when it does, Vintage Port seems to get the spotlight. However, there are plenty of other excellent Port types available, such as this one. This Port wine is actually about 24 years old, made from high quality wines, and is complex and intriguing, more dry than sweet, well-balanced and delicious. Caramel and salted nuts, dried fruit, a wisp of citrus and black cherry, hints of spice and good acidity. A Port to slowly savor over the course of an evening, chatting with good friends, paired with blue cheese or creme brulee. Each sip will bring something new to your palate, and you could get lost within your glass.

4) 2015 Bodegas Garzón Balasto ($120)
From Uruguay, the 2015 vintage was the first release of this wine, a blend of the best grapes of the vineyard, including 45% Tannat, 25% Cabernet France, 20% Petit Verdot, and 10% Marselan. The grapes were fermented in concrete tanks and then the wine spent about 20 months in untoasted, large French oak casks. This is a powerful, muscular wine with concentrated red and black fruit flavors, yet it still possesses a beautiful elegance. The tannins are restrained, helping to rein in its power. There are also subtle spice notes, nice acidity, a hint of earthiness and it possesses a lingering and pleasant finish. This is a wine built for aging, though it is still impressive now.

5) 2014 Kay Brothers Amery Vineyard Block 6 Shiraz ($119.99)
An Australian wine made from 100% Shiraz from a vineyard that was planted in 1892. 122 year old vines! This wine, with a 14.5% ABV, aged for at least 22 months in 1/3 new, 1/3 second, and 1/3 third use French and American oak puncheons. It possesses a rich, crimson color and an alluring nose of spice and black fruit. On the palate, the wine is elegant and silky smooth, with a complex melange of concentrated flavors of plum, black cherry and raspberry, with a strong spicy backbone, well integrated tannins, and pleasing acidity. It is well balanced with a long, lingering finish that completely satisfies. This is nowhere close to a jammy, fruit bomb but rather the type of high quality wine that seduces your senses.

6) 2013 Bedrock Wine Co. Griffin's Lair Syrah, Sonoma Coast ($50-$60)
A blend of 88% Syrah and 12% Viognier, this California wine possesses a dark, almost purplish colored wine, emitted an alluring nose of black fruits and spice, with subtle, almost fleeting aromas of other elements, such as herbal and floral notes. You can detect the complexity of this wine from the start, and that complexity is further elaborated on the palate. Full bodied and intense, it is lush and seductive, possessed of an intricate melange of flavors, including plum, black cherry, vanilla, dark spice, and an underlying earthiness. Such a long and lingering finish, each sip providing pleasure for minutes at the least. The tannins are well integrated, the silky feel of the wine caressing your palate. A hedonistic and complex wine that will please almost any wine lover.

This year, six countries and regions have a single spot on the list, including Spain, Italy, Portugal, Uruguay, Australia, and California. Of these six wines, they also consist of 2 Fortified Wines and 4 Red Wines. The Uruguayan wine may be the most surprising wine on the list as most people wouldn't expect such an amazing, high-end wine from this up and coming wine country. For myself, the biggest surprise may be the Australian wine, as I've tasted little from this country in several years after having had too many disappointing wines. It's time for me to sample more Australian wines.

Not all expensive wines are worth their high price but these wines well worth the splurge. These are the type of wines that words often cannot do justice. These are wines to experience and savor, not to dissect and analyze. These wines should be shared with others, with family and friends, to share the experience. With the holidays near, why not splurge and buy one of these wines.

If you have some of your own recommendations for unique and compelling wines over $50, please add them to the comments.

2014 Kay Brothers Amery Vineyard Block 6 Shiraz: Ancient Australian Vines

During the last few years, I've bought or drank very few Australian wines, having been turned off by the large amount of jammy fruit bombs that country seemed to produce for a time. I didn't want a sledgehammer of wine to assault my palate, but I rather desired wines with more subtlety and complexity. Maybe it's time to reconsider the wines of Australia, to ascertain whether there has been a change in the type of wines they make. The 2014 Kay Brothers Amery Vineyard Block 6 Shiraz certainly has opened my eyes to the possibilities.

The Kay Brothers winery was initially established back in 1890 by brothers Herbert & Frederick Kay, and it is now the oldest winery in the McLaren Vale that is still owned by the founding family. The 3rd and 4th generations of the family now control the winery, including Herbert’s grandsons Colin and Bill. Their Amery Vineyard, consisting of about 22 hectares, was purchased back in 1890 and is located in the foothills of the Southern Mt. Lofty Ranges. Their vineyards are planted with grapes including Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Grenache, Mataro & Muscat Blanc. There are a relatively small winery, producing only about 12,000 cases annually.

I was intrigued by an interview I read in BeverageDynamics (February 17, 2018) with Michael Wehrs, the sales and marketing manager for Kay Brothers. Wehrs stated, "Australian shiraz used to be these big juicy fruit bombs. There was a time when we made wines for that certain palate. Today, those producers might not even recognize our shiraz. We've toned it down, focusing more on acidity and the refreshing quality on the end of the palate. Australian shiraz is no longer the jammy fruit bombs of Yellow tail."

Was this the case? Had there been a turnaround in Australia, at least with some producers? If so, would these new wines be exciting and compelling? Was it time to revisit Australian Shiraz?

I received a media sample of the 2014 Kay Brothers Amery Vineyard Block 6 Shiraz ($119.99), a 100% Shiraz from the ancient Block 6 plot, which was planted in 1892. 122 year old vines! This special plot is only four acres and was first vinified separately back in 1984. This wine, with a 14.5% ABV, aged for at least 22 months in 1/3 new, 1/3 second, and 1/3 third use French and American oak puncheons. Only 3600 bottles of this wine were produced.

The wine benefits from some decanting, to give it some time to open up. It possesses a rich, crimson color and an alluring nose of spice and black fruit. On the palate, the wine is elegant and silky smooth, with a complex melange of concentrated flavors of plum, black cherry and raspberry, with a strong spicy backbone, well integrated tannins, and pleasing acidity. It is well balanced with a long, lingering finish that completely satisfies. This is no where close to a jammy, fruit bomb but rather the type of high quality wine that seduces your senses. Paired with filet mignon, this was an excellent accompaniment, a no-brainer pairing that elevated the dinner.

If this is an example of what is now coming out of Australia, I really do need to revisit Australian Shiraz. This is definitely a splurge wine, one worth the price, so I want to check out some more affordable Australian wines to see if change has occurred.

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I am back again with a new edition of Thursday Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting, upcoming food & drink events.. **********************************************************
1) Opening on Saturday, May 30, the new BISq (Bergamot Inman Square) is coming to Inman Square. "BISq will focus on eclectic small plates, an innovative charcuterie program and a compelling beer and wine list selection."  The team behind Bergamot, one of my favorite restaurants, is introducing this 49-seat restaurant which will also feature two bars; one with a charcuterie bar and the other a beverage bar.

BISq and Bergamot’s Wine Director, Kai Gagnon, has created a thoughtful and inventive wine and beer program to perfectly compliment the diverse cuisine that will be developed by BISq Executive Chef Dan Bazzinotti. Chef Bazzinotti will oversee the kitchen at BISq as the Executive Chef with Chef/Owner Keith Pooler also sharing his time between both locations.

Kai plans on utilizing his sabrage skills at BISq on certain nights to commence service. The featured wines that Kai will be including on the wine list include those of Northern France, Germany and Austria. A majority of the wine list will focus on the Loire Valley.

The BISq menu which has been created by Bazzinotti includes small plates with a focus on his charcuterie program. Some of the charcuterie menu highlights will include: creole calf liver mousse, chicken rillettes, kabanosy, and betty’s mazzafegati.  Some of the menu standouts include: lemon corzetti, lamb ribs, green gazpacho, grilled nectarines, and creole beignets.

The dessert menu, prepared by Bergamot Pastry Chef Kelcey Rusch, will have a daily selection of individual trifles. There will be three options nightly- one with chocolate, one with fruit (such as the orange-vanilla pudding with ramazotti soaked cake and toasted almonds) and one that has an eggy base.

“After five very successful years of operating Bergamot, my team and I were ready for another challenge. I am so grateful for such a talented and creative group that surrounds me, and I want to make sure that they are always able to grow and broaden their capabilities while they are part of my team,” said Pooler. “That is why we created BISq together. It showcases Kai’s passion for wine and beer, Dan’s expertise with Charcuterie, and it offers Servio another opportunity to lead the front-of-the-house staff and engage new guests.”

.I'm very much looking forward to checking out BISq.

2) The Legal Sea Foods in Cambridge’s Charles Square is lining up special summer eats, from June to August, at its expansive al fresco Terrace Bar situated in front of the Charles Hotel.

June: All You Can Eat Fish Fry
--Crispy Fried Haddock - French fries and cole slaw ($18)
July: All American Hot Dog Bar
--One Dog ($5)
--Three Dog Sampler Board ($15)
--Sonora “Bacon Wrapped a la Plancha” - grilled onions, tomatoes, jalapeño relish
--Chicago Vienna Beef Dog “Dragged Through the Garden” - tomato wedge, piccalilli, pepperoncini, dill pickle, mustard
--New Jersey Thuman’s Dog "Ripper Style" - crispy fried "rutts style" relish, steamed bun
--NY Sabrett All Beef Hot Dog - sauerkraut, sweet onions in tomato, brown mustard
--Rhode Island Little Rhody Brand "Hot Weiner" - diced onions, meat sauce, yellow mustard, steamed bun
August: Souped Up Gazpacho Bar
--One cup ($6)
--Gazpacho Trio ($15)
· Red - tomato w/ veggies and tortilla strips
· Green - cucumber, Greek yogurt, avocado
· Yellow - cantaloupe, crème fraîche, EVOO
· White - almonds, sherry vinegar, grapes
Toppings ($3 each)
· Sweet Maine Crab Meat
· Pickled Texas Shrimp
· Squid Escabeche
· Saffron Poached Mussels
· Cajun Flaked Salmon
· Pickled Papaya
· Mango Salsa

3) On Tuesday, June 16, at 6:30pm,  Legal Sea Foods in Park Square will host a wine dinner with Leeuwin Estate. Leeuwin Estate is one of the founding wineries of the now famous Margaret River district of Western Australia. In 1972, legendary Napa Valley winemaker, Robert Mondavi, first identified the future site of the Leeuwin vineyard as being ideal for the production of premium wine and provided early mentorship to Denis and Tricia Horgan who founded Leeuwin Estate in 1974. Maintaining a team of highly skilled and dedicated winemakers, Leeuwin Estate is currently under the direction of two generations of the founding family and continues to churn out world-class wines with distinct flavors.

Legal Sea Foods will team up with Leeuwin’s Joint Chief Executive, Simone Furlong, to host a four-plus-course dinner paired with his selections from the Leeuwin Estate vine. The menu will be presented as follows:

HORS D’OEUVRES
Oysters on the Half Shell, Melon Granita, Grapefruit Pearls
Foie Gras Torchon, Brioche Toast Points, Peach Jam
Tempura Cauliflower Florets, Citrus & Cilantro Marmalade
Leeuwin Estate “Art Series” Sauvignon Blanc, Margaret River, 2013
FIRST COURSE
Butter-Poached Turbot Fillet (Confetti Cous Cous Salad, Lemon-Dill Gremolata)
Leeuwin Estate “Siblings” Sauvignon Blanc Semillon, Margaret River, 2012
SECOND COURSE
Grilled California Wild King Salmon (Grilled Mango Salsa, Sultana & Cashew Rice Pilaf)
Leeuwin Estate “Prelude Vineyards” Chardonnay, Margaret River, 2011
Leeuwin Estate “Art Series” Chardonnay, Margaret River, 2011
THIRD COURSE
Beef Bourguignon (Yukon Gold Pearl Potatoes, Fried Ramps)
Leeuwin Estate “Prelude Vineyards” Cabernet Merlot, Margaret River, 2007
Leeuwin Estate “Art Series” Cabernet Sauvignon, Margaret River, 2008
CHEESE COURSE
Private Stock Cheddar, Aged Gouda, Manchego (Toast Points, Raspberry-Thyme Jam)
Leeuwin Estate “Art Series” Shiraz, Margaret River, 2011

COST: $85 per person (excludes tax & gratuity)
Reservations required by calling 617-530-9397

4) On Wednesday, June 10, from 6:30PM to 8:30PM, the Wine ConneXtion, located in North Andover, invites guests to explore the tastes of American bourbons and whiskeys, at its complimentary “All American Spirits” tasting. At this special tasting the experts at The Wine ConneXtion will be pouring a selection of upscale American bourbons and whiskeys barreled in the USA including one from Boston’s own backyard. Names such as Whistle Pig, Eagle Rare and South Boston Irish Whiskey are just a few of the great spirits to be poured at this tasting.

Tastings are complimentary and open to the public, 21+ only. I was at their last whiskey tasting and it was an excellent event with plenty of delicious whiskey available to sample. This event should be just as good so check it out.

5) After 17 years in business, Chef/Owner Deborah Hansen of Taberna de Haro, in Brookline, has decided to open on Sundays. She will serve Brunch every Sunday from 12pm-4pm and then their regular menu from 4pm-8pm. Brunch sounds like a great idea and the menu is very compelling.

Some of the highlights of their Brunch menu include:

Churros y chocolate $10
Long fritters & thick hot chocolate
Beicon y huevos $12
Thick bacon, fried eggs, fries, griddled tomato, and thick toast
Revuelto de gambas y ajetes $12
Scrambled eggs with pickled green garlic shoots & shrimp
Migas y orejas $15
Spanish hash with chorizo, fried eggs and griddled pig ears
Huevos rotos $12
Olive oil-fried potatoes with broken fried eggs and diced jamón ibérico
Plato combinado $16.5
Marinated pork loin, fried eggs, fries
Tabla catalán $16
Thick toast, grated tomato, garlic cloves, exceptional Catalán olive oil, fuet (hard Catalán sausage), garrotxa cheese (cured goat), roasted red peppers
Tabla madrileña $15
Tortilla española, jamón serrano, manchego cheese, sliced tomato, warm baguette with olive oil - make a bocadillo!
Paella y fuente de ensalada $40
Today’s paella, preceded by a big salad (serves 2-3)

6) Chef Jacky Robert, French-born and often considered a standard-bearer for French cuisine, recently sold his shares in Petit Robert Bistro and is bringing his enthusiasm and experience to a new venture. He has partnered with Ms Sam Sosnitsky, owner of Pierrot Bistro, a Beacon Hill restaurant, and on Monday, June 1, the pair plan to to re-christen the lower Cambridge Street space Ma Maison Jacky Robert.

For Robert, it’s a homecoming of sorts, as he acted as consulting chef when Pierrot Bistro opened in 2004. Chef Robert promises that the menu at Ma Maison Jacky Robert will remain faithful to the precepts of classic French cuisine, while injecting an occasional element of surprise.

Debut Menu Items:
Gazpacho with Shrimp $8
Uncle Lucien’s Country Pate’ $8
Romaine Hearts with Cherries, Walnuts & Roquefort $12
Boston Celtics Salad: 4 green vegetables and seared red tuna $17
Pan-Seared Foie Gras with Apple Tatin and Rhubarb Gastrique $19
Grilled Wild Salmon with Ratatouille $20
Braised Short Ribs Bourguignon $19
U10 Scallops with Pea Risotto $20
Double Lamb Chops $20
Plats du Jour will include: sweetbreads, lamb stew and Tripe Provencal

7) On June 3, starting at 6:45-pm, Puritan & Co. Chef/Owner Will Gilson, Chef de Cuisine Alex Saenz, Wine Director Peter Nelson and the restaurant’s team pay homage to Umbria’s wines from the “Green Heart of Italy” in the next installation of “Wine Wednesdays.” Wine Director, Peter Nelson, is working with Mise Imports to select six Umbrian wines to feature at the next wine dinner on Wednesday, June 3. Umbria is known as “il cuore verde d’Italia,” the green heart of Italy.

I was at their last wine dinner and it was an exceptional time, with lots of great food and wine. This event also should be equally as good.

The Umbrian wine dinner will include a multi-course meal, paired with each wine, prepared by chef de cuisine, Alex Saenz. The wines featured at the Umbrian Wine Dinner include:

2013 “Pigro delle Sorbe” Bianco
2013 “Terre dei Preti” Bianco
NV Rossa da Tavola
2012 Sagrantino “Il Forestiero”
2012 Sangiovese “Le Cese”
2008 Sangiovese “Selezione le Cese”

Cost: $95 plus tax and gratuity
For Reservations, please call (617)-615-6195

8) On Wednesday, June 3, at 6:30pm, experience some of Hell’s Kitchen’s famous (perhaps more aptly put, infamous) plates as Chef Brendan Pelley, of Zebra’s Bistro and Wine Bar in Medfield, cooks and dishes on his Hell’s Kitchen Experience. Chef Pelley didn't win but I'm sure he has plenty of fun stories of his experiences.

The Hell’s Kitchen Dinner Party will include:

Amuse Bouche:
“WHERE’S THE WELLINGTON!!!”
Mini Beef Wellington, parma ham, mushroom duxelles
1st Course:
“THE SCALLOP IS RAW!!!”
Lightly Torched Scallop on the ½ Shell, roasted fennel puree, loukaniko vinaigrette
2nd Course:
“THE CRAB IS BURNT, YOU DONKEY”
Tempura Soft Shell Crab, yuzu aioli, quick pickles, ginger garlic sauce
3rd Course:
“THIS RISOTTO IS &#*%@*!!”
Lobster & Corn Risotto, saffron tomato broth, butter poached tail
4th Course:
“THE LAMB IS DRY, YOU MUPPET!!”
Herb Crusted Rack of Lamb, spinach orzo, cracked green olive jus
5th Course:
“NOW #@&* OFF OUT OF HERE!!”
Sticky Toffee Pudding, date puree, cardamom ice cream

Price: $85 per person
Reservations required, so please call 508-359-4100

Wines Of the Southern Hemisphere: The Complete Guide

It is now autumn, with a brisk chill to the air, and the winter season will arrive in a couple months. We often don't think about the fact that in the Southern Hemisphere it is now spring, and they are looking forward to summer in a couple months. Near the end of our winter, grape harvest will begin in countries like Argentina and South Africa. How much do you know about the wine regions of the Southern Hemisphere?

You can learn more about these regions in a newly released book, Wines of the Southern Hemisphere: The Complete Guide, written by Mike DeSimone and Jeff Jenssen, the World Wine Guys (Sterling Epicure, October 2012, $24.95). It is a 580 page hardcover book, broken down into seven chapters, each covering a different wine producing country. DeSimone and Jenssen are wine, spirits, food and travel writers and are the Entertaining & Lifestyle Contributing Editors for Wine Enthusiast Magazine. They have also written for numerous other magazines and previously published The Fire Island Cookbook.

Their book covers seven countries: Argentina, Australia, Brazil, Chile, New Zealand, South Africa and Uruguay. Each chapter is broken down into five sections: a History & Overview, Major Grape Varieties, Wine Regions, Recipes and In Their Own Words. The greatest bulk of the book consists of information about the wineries of these regions. Australia and New Zealand have the longest chapters, each over 100 pages. It is great to see coverage of Brazil and Uruguay, two countries which seem to rarely be addressed anywhere else. 

This book is primarily geared toward the novice wine lover, providing more of a general overview rather than a comprehensive and detailed exploration of these regions. A more advanced wine lover may want much more detail than is provided in sections like the brief History & Overview. Personally, I would have liked to see a more extensive exploration of the history of these countries. The Major Grape Varieties is useful, though I would have also liked to see some information on the lesser known grapes too, to see which new grapes may be up and coming.

The Wine Regions section, the largest part of each chapter, discusses each country's wine regions and then lists many wineries in those various regions, providing basic information about the wineries with a few tasting notes of their wines. This is more of a starting point about these wineries, a sampling that might intrigue you to seek more information elsewhere.    

It is the other two sections of each chapter which most intrigued me. Each chapter contains one to four Recipes, usually provided by the wineries, and often represent regional specialties. For example, you will find a recipe for Familia Zuccardi's Argentine Empanadas. I have visited the Zuccardi winery and greatly enjoyed their empanadas, so it was cool to see this recipe in this book. As another example, you will find a recipe for the Pisco Sour cocktail in the Chile chapter, another item I enjoyed while visiting Chile. From Bellingham Braai Pie (South Africa) to Waipara Lamb Chops (New Zealand), there is much to entice the food lover in this section.

The final section of each chapter is In Their Own Words, a series of interviews with wine personalities from each region. You will find fascinating interviews with people such as Laura Catena of Argentina (winemaker/owner of Catena Zapata), to Philip Van Zyl of South Africa (editor of Platter's Guide). This section will appeal to wine lovers of all levels, providing intriguing insights into the wine industry of each country. These interviews captivated my attention and I am sure other wine lovers, from novices to advanced, will also find much of interest and value.

At $24.95, this hefty book offers an excellent value as an introduction to the wine regions of the Southern Hemisphere. Though primarily for novice wine lovers, there are sections, like Recipes and In Their Own Words, which will appeal to more advanced wine lovers too. The chapters on Brazil and Uruguay also provide much needed information on these countries, information which is tough to find in other wine books. With the holiday season, consider this book as a gift for your wine lover friends.

Mohegan Sun Wine Fest: The Wines

Though I would have preferred more diversity in the wine selections at the Mohegan Sun Wine Fest Grand Tasting, I found some very good wines and I will share a sampling of my favorites below. Obviously, I did not taste every wine at the event so there could have been other worthy wines that I simply did not get the opportunity to sample. If you attended this event, and tasted some good wines that I have not mentioned, feel free to add your thoughts to the Comments.

The labels are eye-catching, especially if you are a music lover, though you might suspect they are mere gimmicks. The Wines That Rock, founded in 2009, is a collaboration between RZO Music, Inc. and the Mendocino Wine Company, and is "...all about pairing wine & music."  The Mendocino Wine Co. is very environmentally friendly, with sustainable farming, green power through solar & wind, eco-friendly packaging, carbon neutrality and more.

There are currently five Wines That Rock, including wines for Woodstock, Pink Floyd, The Rolling Stone, The Police and The Grateful Dead. If you check their website, you can see the inspirations for these wines, the reasons why the music and wine are supposed to work well together. I have tasted several of these wines before, which generally retail around $15 a bottle, and they are generally good wines for the money and not merely a marketing gimmick.

Their newest release, in partnership with Grateful Dead Productions and Rhino Entertainment is the 2009 Grateful Dead "Steal Your Face," a  red blend. Their website states: "To capture the essence of the live energy of the Grateful Dead’s Steal Your Face, Winemaker Mark Beaman chose to meld several varieties into one. Just as the band members would segue through various musical styles, this wines far reaching flavors melt seamlessly from one to the next, blending Syrah, Petite Sirah, Zinfandel & Grenache. In honor of the band’s famous improvisational concerts that have brought joy to so many, this wine celebrates Mendocino County’s bounty of diversity and freedom of experimentation."

I enjoyed this muscular wine, with its prominent blend of black and red fruit, a spicy backbone and strong tannins. It had just enough complexity to make it interesting, especially at its price point. It is an easy drinking wine, excellent for BBQ or hearty meat dishes, or something to warm you on a chilly winter evening. As I am not a big Grateful Dead fan, I can't really say how this wine compares to their music. But maybe my friend, and devoted Deadhead, Adam of Wine Zag can comment on that.

I found two Spanish Albarinos, from Rias Baixas, each offering its own unique style. The 2010 Serra da Estrela Albarino ($16.99) is from a winery established in 2000, located  in the Condado do Tea subzone of Rias Baixas on the northern slopes of the Miño river. The chief winemaker is a woman, Cristina Mantilla, a common occurrence in Rias Baixas wineries. This Albarino sees no oak, and is crisp and clean, with more restrained fruit tastes, apple, pear and apricot. Its minerality is more prominent, kind of a flintiness, and it has a fairly lengthy and pleasing finish. A nice choice with seafood, from oysters to shrimp.

The 2010 Salneval Albarino ($11.99) is produced by the Adega Condes de Albarei winery, founded in 1988 and located in the O Salnès valley. It is a cooperative of 362 grower/owners, equipped with advanced winery technology. Again, this Albarino was crisp and clean, but its fruit flavors were much more powerful, a delightful melange of peach, pear and melon. Its minerality was more subtle, along with hints of honey and spice. It had a fuller mouthfeel, more voluptuous, than the other Albarino, and I would enjoy this on its own or paired with food, maybe something with a little spicy heat, like some Thai. If you are not drinking Albarino, then go find some to taste.

The 2007 Jose Maria Da Fonseca Periquita Reserva ($16.99) is a Portuguese red blend of 50% Castelao, 30% Touriga Nacional, and 20% Touriga Franca. It is aged for about eight months in new and used oak and has an alcohol content of 13.2%. A light red color and an alluring fruity nose with a touch of exotic spice. The flavors include blueberry, raspberry, black cherry, vanilla and spice. Easy drinking, delicious, and another reason to embrace Portuguese wines.

One of my overall favorite wines of the Expo was the 2005 Terre Rare Carignano del Sulcis Riserva ($14.99) from the Sella & Mosca winery in Sardinia. The winery was established in 1899 by two Piedmontese businessmen and it is currently owned by Campari. This wine is made from 100% Carignan, is aged for three years in French barriques and has an alcohol content of 13.5%. I found this to be a complex and interesting wine, a stunner at this price point. Spicy and bold, with delicious black fruit flavors, vanilla, a silky mouthfeel and hints of earthiness. I would pair this with pork, venison or lamb, or just savor on its own. This is a wine likely to end up on one of my Favorites List of 2012.

The Saintsbury Vineyard has long been one of my favorite California producers of Pinot Noir. The winery founders, Dick Ward and Dave Graves, made their first Saintsbury wine in 1979 and released their first Pinot Noir in 1981. Based in the Carneros region, they currently produce about 40,000 cases annually. Over the course of the Expo weekend, they poured five different wines, including four Pinot Noirs.

The 2009 Carneros Chardonnay ($21.99) is unfiltered, spends 8 months in French oak (20% new), and undergoes malolactic fermentation. The bottle is under a screwcap, and presents a tasty white wine with restrained fruit, spice and some minerality. This is a good example of how oak can enhance a Chardonnay, rather than drown it.

The 2008 Carneros Pinot Noir ($27.99) is a good starting point for their portfolio of Pinot Noirs. It might be their most muscular Pinot, with bright red fruit, a spicy backbone and hints of earthiness. A delicious taste, nicely balanced and a pleasing finish. Over the years, I have drank many bottles of this Carneros Pinot. The 2008 Carneros Pinot Noir, Lee Vineyard is a single vineyard that spends about ten months in French oak, about 29% new. It has less muscle than the regular Carneros though the fruit is still bright and there is plenty of spice notes.

Onto their more elegant offerings. The 2005 Carneros Pinot Noir, Stanley Ranch is an older vintage as the current one for this wine is 2008. This was a more elegant wine, very Burgundian in nature, which subtle red fruit flavors, plenty of spice notes and a strong backbone of earthiness. Its lingering finish was very satisfying, and this is certainly a wine to slowly savor, enjoying its complexity and style. A sublime wine evidencing the skill of Saintsbury. The 2007 Carneros Pinot Noir, Brown Ranch is equally as excellent, an elegant experience with less earthiness and spice. There is much subtlety in its complexity, reminding me in that respect of a fine Daiginjo sake. These are examples of some of the best California Pinot Noirs out there.

A squid picture on the label? And even a name based on squid?  Yes, it is catchy and kind of cool but is it a mere gimmick?  The 2011 Calamares Vinho Verde ($7-$8) is a Portuguese blend of 40% Arinto, 30% Trajudura and 30% Loureiro with an alcohol content of only 9%. The wine is from the single estate of Quinta da Devesa, and its name is intended to "...create an association with the unpretentious and relaxed nature of the region and its wines." This is an easy quaffer, a wine to drink and enjoy, without any need to think about it. Slightly effervescent, it has plenty of acidity and flavors of grapefruit and lemon, with some mild mineral notes. For under $10, this is a good choice, and pair it with light chicken dishes, seafood and maybe even cheese.

Moving onto Spain, I enjoyed the 2009 Tarima Hill ($15), produced by Bodegas Volver, S.L. and from the Alicante region. It is made from 100% Monastrell, the vines aged from 25-35 years, and the wine spends about 20 months in French oak. This is actually the first vintage of this wine. This is a big and bold wine, with lush ripe plum and blueberry flavors, strong tannins and hints of vanilla, cinnamon and raisins. It calls out to be paired with a big steak, and offers a good taste for the price.

Next up, a couple Grüner Veltliners from the same winery, Eder, which possesses 12 hectares of vineyards, in the town of Mautern in the Wachau region of Austria, and produces only about 20,000 bottles annually.These Grüners were very different from each other. The 2009 Eder Grüner Veltliner was very aromatic with prominent fruit flavors and good acidity. A relatively simple, easy drinking and fun quaffer. But the 2006 Eder Raubern Single Vineyard Grüner Veltliner (under $20) was anything but simple. The melange of flavors fascinated me with their complexity, with plenty of spice and floral notes, yet still with noticeable stone fruit components. Despite its age, this seemed still very fresh and it was a clear winner, sure to please any wine lover.

I found a couple nice Ports too. The 2001 Warre's Late Bottled Vintage was very approachable with plenty of cherry and plum fruit flavors, subtle spice and a smooth mouth feel. It was more an elegant style, with a lengthy and pleasing finish. The Ferreira Dona Antonia Reserve Porto was another elegant wine but its berry flavors were more restrained, and accompanied by tastes of dried fruit, nuts, spice and floral elements. It seemed more complex than the Warre's and was also smooth and very satisfying on the finish. Both Ports were enjoyable, and your choice of the two will depend on your personal preferences.

Australian wine has taken a hit in the last couple years, a backlash from wine lovers tired of overly fruity, high alcohol, and huge red wines. There is some truth there, that Australia produced a significant number of wines that met those qualifications, but there are also some very good wines coming out of this region. They just seem to get far less publicity and maybe it is time for wine lovers to return to Australia. A good starting point may be the Shingleback Winery, located in the McLaren Vale of Australia.

Kym & John Davey chose to develop a family estate that had been established in 1957. In 1998, they released their first wine, the Shingleback Shiraz, and their stated goal was to "produce affordable, quality wines that express the true character of McLaren Vale." I tasted their 2006 Shingleback Shiraz and was impressed with what I tasted. It certainly was not a fruit bomb and was a far more elegant and restrained wine, with plenty of complexity and a pleasant taste of black cherry, blueberry and raspberry combined with vanilla, subtle spice and even hints of chocolate on the finish. Good structure, nice balance, and pure delicious. It makes me want to further explore Shingleback wines, as well as seek out more of these type of Australian wines.

With the Wine Blogger's Conference coming to Portland, Oregon in August, plenty of attention will be coming to Oregon wineries. At the Expo, I encountered Jim Bernau, the founder of Willamette Valley Vineyards, who purchased the vineyard site in 1983 and planted Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Gris. The winery and cellar are carved into an ancient volcanic flow and the soil is red from its high iron content. It is claimed that this soil is similar to "...the red clay soil found in the Grand Cru Pinot Noir vineyards of Romaneé-st-Vivant in Burgundy,.."  I cannot comment on that but I can state that their wines are impressive and I hope to visit their winery in August.

Their 2009 Pinot Gris ($17.99) was stainless steel fermented and permitted to sure-lee age for a time. It is crisp and clean with bright flavors of green apple, melon and pear with a slight herbal component. Delicious, refreshing and moderately complex. The 2009 Pinot Noir ($29.99), which undergoes about 11 months of French oak (22% new), is a delicious example of Oregon Pinot Noir. Ripe red fruit, hints of spice and orange peel, and a lengthy, satisfying finish. It is a more elegant style, offering a nice balance and good complexity.

The stunner though was their 2009 Estate Pinot Noir ($43.99), which is subtle and seductive, an elegant and complex Pinot which is sure to impress. The melange of flavors ranges from bright cherry to ripe plum, from cinnamon to black pepper. You need to slowly sip and savor this wine, to perceive all of the diverse flavors within. Well balanced, this wine provides an alluring finish that seems to caress your palate with silk, lingering long within your mouth. A killer wine, I highly recommend this one.

Sherry News

1) Authentic sherry, like Champagne, comes from only a single region in the world, though other regions sometimes produce similar products, and still call them "sherry." I dislike that practice and was glad to see that Australian winemakers now will no longer use the term "sherry." They have one year to phase of the use of that term.

This is part of a larger deal between Australia and the European Union to have Australia stop using numerous protected names, including Burgundy, Chablis, Champagne, Graves, Manzanilla, Marsala, Moselle, Port, Sauterne and White Burgundy. In return, Australia will gain some commercial benefits, allowing them easier access to the European market. Plus, Australia's own geographical indicators will be legally protected in Europe.

Australia will now refer to sherry as "apera." Apera was chosen as it is meant to be a play on "aperitif," and their sherry-style wines will be marketed as such.

Under the Australian Wine Industry Fortified Wine Code of Practice:

"Apera describes a style of fortified wine which ranges from a dry to a very sweet style. The wine is usually produced using a solera system and ageing takes place in a variety of vessels. Apera is fortified with grape spirit, brandy or both. Most Apera styles are initially dry, with any sweetness being added later. Apera is produced in a variety of styles, ranging from dry versions that are pale amber in colour to sweeter sometimes dark brown styles. For Apera produced in Australia fortification must be from Australian grape spirit, brandy or both. Typically, the commercial Apera styles are described using sweetness. Other descriptors such as fine, intense or rich may be used to provide additional information for these classifications for the premium styles or to sub-divide existing classifications."

Now will other regions step up and stop using the protected term "sherry?" I hope so.

2) Check out a new article, The Sherry Revival, written by Norman Miller and published in The Guardian. It mentions that sherry appears to be on an upswing, as I mentioned in my previous History of Sherry. The article gives a nice summary of some of the reasons why you should be enjoying sherry and is well worth checking out.

3) There has been some dark news in the sherry realm too. Decanter magazine stated that nine sherry bodegas, an industry association and Sherry's Consejo Regulador had been fined a total of €6,723,000 for breaching competition rules.

The National Competition Commission (CNC) charged that from 2001-2006, these nine bodegas formed a group to control the output and price of sherry to be exported to foreign distributors of 'buyers own brand' in Germany, the Netherlands, and Great Britain. Buyers own brand are basically supermarket own-label sherry. The bodegas included Williams & Humbert, José Estévez, Barbadillo, González Byass, Emilio Lustau, Pedro Romero, J. Ferris, and Caydsa.

Price fixing is certainly not a good thing, and it won't help the sherry industry rebound. More united efforts at marketing would be a far better step for these bodegas. It has been done before, so hopefully the wineries can join together once again.

Saké News

Australia is a growing market for Saké, a good sign for the continued spread of this brew.

In a recent edition of the Sydney Morning Herald, there was an article describing how Saké is exploding across Australia. In 2004, Saké exports to Australia were 95 kiloliters and grew to 135 kiloliters in 2008. And as far back as 1996, a Saké brewery, the Sun Masamune, opened in Penrith. They make Saké under the brand "Go-Shu" meaning "Australian Saké."

Read the rest of the article to learn more about the Saké scene in Australia.

Terlato Family Vineyards

Almost every week I seem to read about some huge wine corporation buying up another vineyard or winery. It seems tougher and tougher for the small artisan producers. One of my worries is that the huge corporations may only produce wine that caters to the lowest common denominator, creating mass-produced, characterless wine.

Terlato Wines International is a huge wine marketing company, representing one out of every eight bottles of wine costing over $14. They represent some high quality brands though they also represent Santa Margherita Pinot Grigio, a popular but more mass-produced wine. Though the high quality brands are definitely the majority of their portfolio.

Terlato is owned and run by Anthony Terlato and his sons, William and John. Anthony's career in wine began over 50 years ago in his own father's wine store in Chicago. Anthony eventually got into the wine importing business, beginning with Italian wines. His Paterno Imports became a very important Italian wine importer. During the 1980s, he expanded his portfolio to cover a number of other wine regions, including California, Oregon, France, Australia, Greece, Chile, South Africa and New Zealand.

Then in 1996, the Terlatos entered the wine making business with the purchase of Rutherford Hill Winery in Napa Valley. This was but the first of their wine making ventures which now include ownership of Chimney Rock Winery and Terlato Family Vineyards as well as majority interests in Sanford Winery and Alderbrook Vineyards. They also have interests in M. Chapoutier (Rhône Valley) plus a joint venture in Australia with M. Chapoutier.

What type of wine would their namesake winery, Terlato Family Vineyards, produce? Based on their website, they seek to produce high quality wine. They want to make a limited production of handcrafted wines with authentic expressions of their region. These wines would have to meet very high standards. That sure sounds promising, but would the wines live up to the hype? I would soon learn the answer.

Last week, I attended a special wine tasting with several of the Terlato wines, as well as a couple from other wineries they own. OurGlass Wine Co. of Saugus hosted Doug Fletcher (pictured below) who is the Vice President of winemaking for Terlato. I very much looked forward to the tasting as I always enjoy meeting winemakers. They are obviously so vital to the process and you can learn much about the wine from talking to them.
The line-up of wines, shown below, included four Terlato wines, one from Domaine Terlato-Chapoutier, one from Chimney Rock and one from Sanford. There was a good crowd of people who showed up for the tasting. And everyone seemed to enjoy the tasting.

Who is Doug Fletcher? He has worked with Stags Leap District fruit for more than two decades and in the process has become a leader in growing and crafting wines from the District. Fletcher began his career as a winemaker in the mid 1970s. He arrived at Chimney Rock in 1987 and oversaw the replanting of the original estate vineyard, as well as 65 acres of additional plantings done under the Terlato Family’s leadership in 2001. In 2006, Fletcher was appointed Vice President of Winemaking for the Terlato Wine Group. He oversees all aspects of winemaking at the Terlato properties. Fletcher also serves as a senior consultant to the Terlato Family's joint ventures throughout the world.

Doug was an engaging and personable speaker, with a clear passion for winemaking. He was very informative and answered many questions about the wines. It was obvious that he cares about the quality of the wines he produces. He seeks to make the best wine that he can. And he certainly made a good spokesman for Terlato.

We began the tasting with the 2006 Terlato Family Vineyards Pinot Grigio ($19.99). The grapes for this wine come from the Russian River Valley, a cool climate area that is excellent for Pinot type grapes. One of Doug's goals is to obtain grapes from the best area for that particular type of grape. That is why Russian River Valley was chosen for the Pinot Grigio as it was felt that area would produce the best Pinot Grigio grapes.

The wine has an alcohol content of 13.8% and is made from 100% Pinot Grigio. It is whole cluster pressed in an effort to prevent the wine from acquiring any bitterness. They actually use a Champagne-style press to gently obtain the juice. The wine is 80% tank fermented and 20% barrel fermented in neutral French oak, old Chardonnay barrels. The wine does not undergo malolactic fermentation though they do stir the lees. It is also aged four months in tanks and neutral barrels. Just over 6,000 cases of this wine were made.

I generally do not care for many Pinot Grigios because far too many are rather bland and one-dimensional. But the Terlato Pinot Grigio was nothing like that. It was a pale yellow in color with an enticing nose of citrus fruit. It was a crisp, refreshing wine with lively fruit flavors of melon and grapefruit. It had a decently long finish and plenty of character. This was a Pinot Grigio that I very much enjoyed. And if Terlato made their Pinot Grigio this good, then it boded well for the rest of their wines.

Now, the Terlato Pinot Grigio is a bit more expensive than most others. That is partially a factor of the higher price they must pay for grapes from the Russian River Valley. But, for the high quality of the wine, I definitely think it is worth the price.

The next Terlato wine I tried was their 2004 Terlato Family Vineyards Syrah ($37.99). The grapes for this wine come from Sonoma County’s Dry Creek Valley, which shares important characteristics with France’s Rhone Valley. Thus, it was thought this was the best place in California for planting Syrah. Again, they are taking great care to find the best source for their grapes.

The wine has an alcohol content of 13.8% and is made from 100% Syrah. The wine is aged for about seventeen months in 100% French oak, 30% new oak. I somewhat expected this to be a big, bold Syrah, the usual California style, but I was completely wrong. The wine had a moderate red color, not the inky purple you see in many California Syrahs. The nose has intriguing dark fruit aromas, plum and blackberry. On the palate, it definitely was a lighter style Syrah, almost like a light Pinot Noir. It had few spice notes but plenty of vibrant fruit, plum and black cherry, as well as a hint of vanilla. A very interesting wine that was carefully crafted rather than with a heavy hand. Much more Old World style and quite delicious.

Next on the Terlato list, the 2004 Terlato Family Vineyards Angel's Peak ($52.99). Terlato wanted to pay tribute to some of his favorite Bordeaux wines with a special selection of varietal blends, which led to the creation of his “Peak Series” wines. These are all Bordeaux style blends from various vineyards in Napa Valley. Angel's Peak follows the traditions and methods of the Pomerol region which is known for its fruit forward wines dominated by the Merlot grape.

This vintage is a blend of 53% Merlot and 47% Cabernet. The exact blend does vary from vintage to vintage. The wine has an alcohol content of about 14.2% and is aged in French oak, 50% new, for about 22 months. It has a medium red color with a nose of cherry and almost a chocolate aroma. The taste gives you good ripe fruit with hints of cinnamon and clove. The tannins are mild and it has a long finish. I think it definitely reminds me of a French Bordeaux.

One interesting fact about the wine is that it has a short foil on the neck of the bottle. This allows you to see the bottom of the cork and thus the name of the wine and its vintage. This is an old tradition that was once done to try to reduce fraud. Some unscrupulous vendors would place an inferior wine into a quality bottle. But, if you can easily see the cork, then you have a better chance of knowing the wine is legitimate.

The final Terlato wine I tasted was the 2005 Terlato Family Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon ($64.99). The grapes for this wine come from the Stags Leap District, often said to be the best location in California for Cabernet Sauvignon. And it is wines from this region which bested French Bordeaux in the famous 1976 tastings.

This wine wine has an alcohol content of 13.8%. Only free run juice is used to make the wine, which is considered the best of the juice. The wine is fermented in stainless steel and then aged in French oak for about eighteen months. It also sees a year or so of bottle aging. Only about 363 cases of this wine were made so it definitely is limited production.

This wine just blew me away! It has a rich, dark red color with a stunning nose of dark berries, vanilla and chocolate. It is a full bodied wine, rich and with very supple tannins. It has a complex melange of flavors including blueberry, vanilla, black cherry, and maybe a hint of cinnamon. It is well balanced and has a delightful lingering finish. It was such a smooth wine, something that you could enjoy on its own, savoring each mouthful. This is a wine you could drink young or which could sit and age in your cellar. A superlative wine that I cannot recommend enough. It is well worth its price tag and could easily compete with Cabernets at twice the price. I made sure to pre-order some for myself.

I also got to taste a few wines from their other wineries. The first was the 2006 Sanford Pinot Noir ($34.99) from the Santa Rita Hills. It is a blend from their estate vineyard, La Rinconada, and the historic Sanford and Benedict Vineyard next door. It has an alcohol content of 14.5% and is made from 100% Pinot Noir. The wine was aged for about ten months in French oak, 30% new.

This wine was very light red in color with a nose of cinnamon and spice. On the palate, the cinnamon combined with clove, vanilla and subtle berry flavors. The tannins were mild and smooth. This was very much a Burgundian-style Pinot. It is a complex wine with pleasant subtleties. It definitely appealed to me, especially as it is unlike many other Pinots currently coming from California.

The 2006 Domaine Terlato-Chapoutier Shiraz-Viognier ($22.99) is from Australia, the winery being in Victoria, and was intended to be made in the Australian manner. The wine is moderately red in color with a very aromatic, perfumy nose which is due to the Viognier. This is a big, bold Syrah with plenty of spice. I am generally not a fan of Viognier as I dislike its perfumy aspect. So, I was not enthralled by this wine, though it is more a matter of personal preference. Those that like Viognier will likely enjoy this wine.

Finally, I tasted the 2005 Chimney Rock Cabernet Sauvignon ($57.99). Like the previous Terlato Cabernet, the grapes for this wine also come from the Stags Leap District. This wine is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon with a bit of Merlot. It has an alcohol content of 14.2% and is fermented in stainless steel. It then spends about eighteen months in French oak, 50% new.

I found the wine to have a medium red color, though on the lighter side. Coming after the superb Terlato Cabernet, it might not have shown the best to me. Though I did enjoy this wine, it was not as impressive as the Terlato. The Chimney Rock seemed a bit tarter and spicier than the Terlato. It still possesses good fruit and spice flavors, nice complexity and structure, but overall I preferred the Terlato. Then it could just be a matter of personal preference too. It is not a wine that will disappoint, but I did prefer the Terlato.

So, the Terlato philosophy of seeking to make high quality wines is more than mere rhetoric. They are crafting some exceptional wines of character. Their wines are different from many of the other wines coming out of California. Doug Fletcher is certainly doing an excellent job of helping to ensure the quality of the Terlato wines. These are wines I heartily recommend.

Saké in Australia?

Can you find Saké down under? Or is Shiraz all you will find?

As I mentioned before, Japan is not the only country to produce Sake, though it certainly is the largest and most important producer. The United States has several Saké breweries. But where else is Saké made? Well there is one Saké brewery in Australia.

In 1996, the Sun Masamune company, owned by Konishi Brewing Co. Ltd , constructed a Saké brewery at Penrith near Sydney. Konishi is a renowned brewery in Japan with over four hundred years of experience. The current Toji of Sun Masamune is Hirofumi Uchiyama, a well known specialist from Nada district of Japan. The brewery produces about 1 million liters of Saké each year. The vast majority of their Saké is exported to Japan, though some of their production is supposed to be exported to the U.S.

Their brand line is named "Go-Shu" and the two Japanese characters that make up that represent the words "Australian Saké" and phonetically translates as "Australia."

Go-Shu Saké is brewed using pure water from the Blue Mountains and high quality Japonica rice grown in Australia. Their general style of Saké is Tanrei Karakuchi (which means "light and dry"), a style I enjoy very much. But they may start creating some other styles as well.

Some of their products include: Go-Shu Premium Junmai Saké (semi-dry), Go-Shu Premium Nama Junmai Saké (semi-sweet), Go-Shu Blue Super Premium Junmai Ginjo Saké (medium-dry), Go-Rin Superior Australian Junmai Ginjo Saké (semi-sweet), and Go-Shu 40 Ultra Premium Junmai Dai Ginjo Saké (dry).

They also make Tsunami, a Sparkling Saké Cocktail with Lychee & Muscat Flavor. It is a ready-to-drink cocktail with only a 4.5% alcohol content.

I have not seen or tasted any of this Australian Saké yet but I am intrigued by it. The company obviously has much experience and skill in Saké brewing. But what would be the impact of Australian grown rice? I will keep an eye out for it.

Two BBQ Wines

'Tis the Season for BBQ...

Though a nice, chilled Rose is excellent in the summer sun, you sometimes need a heartier wine to pair with your BBQ foods. I went to a good friend's house yesterday for a BBQ (though there was not much sun) and brought a couple of wines I felt would go well. Also brought a large jug of home-made Sangria which was a big hit.

The first wine was the 2002 Bogle Vineyards Phantom ($20). This wine is a blend of 56% Petite Sirah, 41% Old Vine Zinfandel, and 3% Old Vine Mourvedre. This is a very bold and powerful wine. It is inky dark with very lush dark fruits and lots of spice. It is very full bodied and fills your mouth with its silky flavors which linger and linger. You definitely need some hearty food to accompany this wine and BBQ ribs certainly filled that slot. This wine was well received by my friends and I heartily recommend it as a Drink & Buy.

The second wine was the 2005 Mollydooker "The Boxer" Shiraz ($25). This wine is made by the famed Sarah & Sparky Marquis who also contributed to the making of Marquis Philips wines (some of my favorites Australian Shiraz). The Boxer has received some incredible press. Robert Parker gave it 95 points and the Wine Spectator placed it on their list of the Top Wines of 2006. But does it live up to the hype?

I bought the wine originally because of the winemakers connection to Marquis Philips. I knew how much I loved those wines. So, at yesterday's BBQ, I opened a bottle. Like the Phantom, this was another very dark wine. It was also full bodied, silky smooth with an abudance of dark fruits and spices. It is a very well balanced wine that definitely pleases the palate. It has much character and is the epitome of what a good Shiraz should be. With cheeseburgers it paired well. Probably any type of beef would go well with it. It is a bold wine though so you need bolder foods for it. Another hearty Drink & Buy.

Reviews of Wines from Australia

The following is a compilation of old reviews I have done on the wines of Australia.

2002 Allandale, Semillon: For me, this was a forgettable white wine. Those who prefer whites might enjoy it for its citrus and floral flavor but I am sure most of the Winers would agree this is a Not Drink, Not Buy.

2004 Wishing Tree Shiraz: This is a lighter bodied Shiraz with a lot of spice on the palate. It is not the typical bold Shiraz, but it is also a nice change of pace. , this would make a fine summer drink that would go with lighter meats as well as heavier ones as well. A Drink and Buy.

Trevor Jones Sparkling Red Wine: Made from mostly shiraz, this tasted like fruit soda with a kick, with an added bit of bitterness. Definite No Drink, No Buy.

2003 Kilikanoon "The Covenant" Shiraz: A big, dark, smoky, spicy Shiraz. A superb wine that is worth its price ($37) if you enjoy this style of Shiraz.