The Mind Of A Sommelier: Christopher Williams

(Check out my Introduction to the The Mind of a Sommelier series.)

Christopher Williams is the Beverage Manager and Sommelier at Harvest, located in Harvard Square. Harvest is an iconic restaurant, having been in existence for over forty years, which is a huge accomplishment. I recently dined there, attending a The Book & The Cook event which involved Hacking Whiskey. It was a fun and tasty event, with plenty of inventive cuisine.

Christopher Williams has always shown a passion for the hospitality industry, starting as a server at age 18. He graduated from Clark Atlanta University in 2009 with a degree in Psychology and began his interest in wine education in 2013 when he served as a waiter & wine steward at Bone's Steakhouse in Atlanta, Georgia. Christopher became a Certified Sommelier by the Court of Master Sommeliers in 2016. After serving as a sommelier at The St. Regis Atlanta, Christopher moved his talents to Boston and started as the restaurant manager and sommelier at Grill 23 & Bar, and for the past year, he has been making his mark at Harvest.

Now, onto the Interview:

What term do you use to describe yourself: Sommelier, Wine Steward, Wine Director, something else?
Sommelier, I prefer that title because it defines who I am and what I do for my profession. I specialize in providing the finest beverage service and engaging with our guests about different wines from different regions of the world, along with pairing wines from my list with the food our chefs prepare daily.

Please give a brief description of the wine list at your restaurant.
The wine list at Harvest covers the classic representation of wines from regions all over the world. I believe that the wine list a sommelier builds should never be about themselves or what is “trending” for the moment. Our job should be to have a wine list that is fun and engaging, but also true to the character of the wines grown in a particular region.

What are your objectives with the wine list?
I want to continue to be an excellent wine steward like my predecessors before me and add more wines to the list that will grab the interests of all the guests that visit Harvest. They say there is a wine for everyone and my goal is to have a list that is approachable for the guest looking for something of “value,” but also consists of wines that a true wine connoisseur will look through and notice some rare wines from smaller producers that may not be well known to the masses.

How often does the wine list change?
The wine list changes fairly often, sometimes 3-4 times a month due to our futures program and changes in vintages. I try to keep a nice rotation of wines so when one is out, I have plenty of options on reserve to choose from and replace with. It’s great because a guest that dines with us one evening may return a month later and notice newer selections on the wine list.

Are there omissions on your wine list you would like to fill?
I would like to add more Riesling options for both the Alsace and German sections of my wine list. I’m in love with Riesling and unfortunately, I feel people are hesitant in trying it because they believe all Rieslings are sweet. There are dry, off dry, sweet and sparkling representations of this grape. Riesling is so versatile you can match almost anything to it!

How do you learn about new wines?
I learn about new wines from my fellow sommeliers, vendors and even guests that come in to the restaurant. They are always excited to tell me about their recent trip to a country and the wines they had a chance to try. In this profession, you are constantly learning something new every day about wines from all over the world.

What is your strategy on pricing the wines on your list?
Pricing structure for Harvest’s wine list is marked in a way that is fair to our guests, I try to provide as much value as possible for each section of the list..

What is the most common wine question asked by your guests?
The most common wine question asked by my guests is what area on my wine list can they find “value.” I tend to lead them straight to Argentina or South Africa because they can provide excellent wines that are priced very fairly on a wine list..

What is the most common criticism you receive from guests about your list?
The most common criticism I receive from guests about Harvest’s list is that they would like to see more wines with significant bottle age to them. It can be quite the task trying to find wines from the 90’s or early 2000’s that would not cost a pretty penny on the wine list..

What is your greatest challenge as a sommelier?
I think my greatest challenge as a sommelier is fighting against the negative image some people have towards someone in my position. Back in the day sommeliers were thought of as arrogant and snooty towards those who would not spend a lot of money for a bottle of wine. Even now I hear stories from people about their recent visit to a restaurant where the sommelier was trying to sell them a bottle of something they thought was cool or better than what they had originally asked for assistance with. Very few sommeliers act like this and they can make it harder for the rest of us to build trust with our guests who may be hesitant in asking for help. A sommelier above all should always show humility and remain humble. It is always about the guests and their experience, we should never try to force our beliefs or opinions on to someone unless they genuinely wish to know what we like to drink. A good sommelier always wants to help you find a bottle of wine that you truly will enjoy at a price point that you feel comfortable spending..

Tell me about 1 or 2 of the best value wines on your list?
One of the best valued wines I have on the list at Harvest is the 2016 Stag’s Leap Hands of Time from Napa Valley for $66. It is a popular wine on my list made by an iconic estate that at one point in history beat Mouton-Rothschild and Haut-Brion in the 1976 Judgement of Paris blind tasting.

Tell me about 1 or 2 of the most unique wines on your list?
One of the most unique wines on the list is the Chateau Musar from Lebanon. When you think of a Cabernet blend most people would not think of Lebanon, most likely they would go straight to California or Washington state. It is full-bodied, savory and yet has an elegance to it that is quite wonderful.

Tell me about 1 or 2 of your favorite wines on your list?
My favorite wine at Harvest is the 2015 Radio Coteau Savoy Vineyard Chardonnay from California. They make cool climate, single vineyard wines that are out of this world, very terroir driven..

Is there anything else you would like people to know about your wine list, your work as a sommelier, or wine service? 
Harvest’s wine list is constantly evolving, and I believe in feedback from my guests no matter how small the detail may be. I want our guests to truly enjoy themselves at Harvest and know that I am always happy to talk to them about various beverages. I want people to know that they can come “across the river” as they say and enjoy a nice glass or bottle of wine in Cambridge at Harvest.

The Mind Of A Sommelier: Jesse Eslin

(Check out my Introduction to the The Mind of a Sommelier series.)

Jesse Eslin is the Wine Director at The Table at Season to Taste, located in northern Cambridge. I've previously given raves to The Table, and was quite taken with their intriguing wine list, enjoying some delicious selections from their list, including the Hild’s Elbling Sekt. Jesse was one of the first sommeliers I thought of when I created my new series, The Mind of a Sommelier.

Jesse’s deep dive into wine came when he worked at Craigie on Main and learned as much as he could. He says “working and learning at Craigie On Main with Chef Tony Maws and his amazing team was like going to graduate school for wine. It was crazy, intense, exhausting and I loved learning as much as I could.” In 2016, Jesse opened The Table at Season to Taste with Chef Carl Dooley, creating new wine pairings every six weeks when the Prix Fixe menu changes.

Now, onto the Interview:

What term do you use to describe yourself: Sommelier, Wine Steward, Wine Director, something else?
Wine Director

Please give a brief description of the wine list at your restaurant.
Our wine list is a constantly changing creature that should make almost anyone happy, as long as they are willing to step a little out of their comfort zone, which is almost a prerequisite for eating here.

What are your objectives with the wine list?
I just want to have fun with it, and make it easy for guests to make a quick decision. Early last year, I tried to add a larger selection of bottles to the list for the sake of it, and found that it did more harm than good. Most of the time, guests come in knowing exactly what they are going to do, menu wise, and I don’t think they wanted to bother looking through a list that had 100-plus different options, so they would punt and just order a couple of wines by the glass. I think it’s an overlooked quality to make all of your decisions very quickly and have the rest of the night to just enjoy the company that you are with, so I trimmed it way back, and it feels much less intimidating.

How often does the wine list change?
The wine list changes pretty frequently. Inventory wise, we don’t buy a whole lot at a time, so it gives us the flexibility to change it up whenever we feel like. The pairings change every time the menu changes, and we try to be seasonally conscious in what we put on the list in terms of glass pours and bottles. The weather tends to dictate what direction our guests want to go, drink wise.

Are there omissions on your wine list you would like to fill?
The challenge is keeping the wine list small – we have a tiny restaurant, tiny kitchen, and you can imagine, a tiny wine cellar. So of course I am tempted to have bottles from every region, every grape – but we keep it tight and flavorful and memorable here.

How do you learn about new wines?
It’s a mix of tasting a lot of new bottles from the awesome distributors that we work with, falling down the rabbit hole of book surfing and online articles, and just scrolling around SevenFifty and researching things that look interesting.

What is your strategy on pricing the wines on your list?
As with everything here, our prices come with tax and hospitality included in the price. There can be sticker shock included in this pricing structure when looking at a wine list, so I just have to work that much harder to find really good wine at really good values. It seems to all work out. I appreciate that our guests seem to trust me and jump right into the pairings I suggest. We have bottles at various pricing levels; I like to think it is an adventure that is worth the ride. I try to take care of guests who are coming in regularly, and love wine, but can’t break the bank on it. And equally important is taking care of our guests who are coming in for a special occasion and want something quite celebratory.

What is the most common wine question asked by your guests?
I’d say it’s “What should I drink?” Because of the wide variety of the flavors on the menu, you can go in a bunch of different ways, depending on your mood. Most of the wines that we have are high acid and medium bodied, food-friendly wines that can morph and bend depending on the dish.

What is the most common criticism you receive from guests about your list?
I’d say if there is one thing, and I don’t know if it’s a criticism, it’s that guests often times are unfamiliar with what we have to offer. I think having a short list with a bunch of obscure grapes or familiar grapes from different places is a fun way to get our guests to broaden their horizons and place their trust in us to give them something delicious. I think the way the menu sets up, guests are much more comfortable putting their whole experience in our hands. Plus, it’s stimulating to have that interaction, rather than have a guest just cold order a cabernet.

What is your greatest challenge as a sommelier?
I think the pairings are a fun challenge. Carl loves flavors from all over the globe, and oftentimes, flavors that would be much easier to just give over to a crisp lager. I think that’s the excitement in wine though. It doesn’t have to be so serious, and it has a place at the table along with these cuisines that have a lot of spice, a lot of energy. Every pairing is not going to be absolutely perfect, but it’s fun to see how certain aspects of the wine and the dish play together depending on what bite you take.

Tell me about 1 or 2 of the best value wines on your list?
Generally speaking, if wines have a little bit of sweetness to them, they are going to play well with a variety of the spices that you will find on the menu. The Dandelion from Alberto Nancleras is an off-dry albariño from the Rias Biaxas in northwestern Spain. It’s like drinking the wine version of lemon sherbet sprinkled with sea salt. I love wines that feel like a lightning bolt, and this definitely falls into that category.

Tell me about 1 or 2 of the most unique wines on your list?
I love the Broc Cellars Counoise. Chris Brockway makes some really cool stuff out of a warehouse in Berkeley, California and this is my favorite. Counoise is a blending grape commonly found in the Southern Rhone in France, but really shines on its own. It has this really bright, spicy fruit and is just a pleasure to drink. If fresh, new world Pinot Noir is your thing, you will love it.

Tell me about 1 or 2 of your favorite wines on your list?
The sparkling wine that we are pouring by the glass, Hild’s Elbling Sekt, is my latest obsession. It’s gorgeous. It smells like walking into a flower shop. It’s dry, crisp, lively, and the glass is almost impossible to put down before it’s empty.

Is there anything else you would like people to know about your wine list, your work as a sommelier, or wine service?
I really appreciate the guest trusting us and going along for the ride. I am a happily obsessed wine geek and of course could talk wine all day and night. And I do. There is always something new to learn and try. Here at The Table at Season To Taste we love embracing the new menu every 6 weeks, which also means a new wine list, new breads, new desserts – all new pairings - it’s an adventure and we appreciate that it seems to be working, and I am just so grateful to this community.

BISq: Fried Chicken to Ricotta Cavatelli

BISq, located on Cambridge Street near Inman Square, is on my list of Top 50 Restaurants of 2018, and one of my resolutions this year is to dine there more frequently. Besides its delicious cuisine, it is owned and operated by some genuinely nice people, including Servio Garcia (co-owner and general manager) and Executive Chef Alex Sáenz. BISq is a small and homey restaurant, with the dining room up-front and a small bar to the back. There is also a Chef's dining counter in front of the kitchen.

I stopped by for dinner recently, and was pleased to see that the restaurant was packed, which is great especially considering it is winter and commonly a slow season for restaurants. As I walked down Cambridge Street, past a number of other restaurants, they didn't seem as busy. It's clear BISq has a good following, and it is worthy of that attention. If you haven't been to BISq, you really need to check it out. And if you already love BISq, maybe it is time for another visit.

BISq has an intriguing and well curated Wine List, with 15 wines available by the glass, generally as a Half (about $5.50-$7) or Full Glass (about $10-$13). Those wines, which are all European, can be broken down into 2 Sparkling, 2 Rosé, 4 White, 4 Red, 2 Sherry, and 1 Dessert Wine. These are not the usual suspects and wine lovers will found plenty of wine choices to tantalize their palate. In the near future, BISq will be adding Spirits to their drinks program, so you'll be able to find tasty cocktails too.

I began my dinner with a glass of the NV Mirco Mariotti "Set e Mez" Rosato (pictured above), a Sparkling wine, from the Emilia-Romagna region of Northern Italy, which is produced from the indigenous Fortana grape. This wine is made in the méthode ancestrale, with native yeasts, and only about 800 cases are produced. It was delicious, dry and complex, with pleasing red fruit flavors and a touch of earthiness. I selected this wine to pair with Fried Chicken, as bubbles is usually an excellent pairing for that dish. And it definitely worked as well as hoped.

Later in the meal, I opted for a glass of 2016 Winzer Krems "Sandgrube 13", an Austrian Zweigelt. It too was dry and delicious, with lots of bright cherry and strawberry notes, some minerality, and a fairly long and satisfying finish. I chose this wine to pair with a pasta dish, with a rich Bolognese sauce, and it too was an excellent pairing.

The Food Menu at BISq is primarily a collection of creative small plates intended for sharing. The menu lists 14 items, priced from $8-$22 although only one dish is priced over $20. You'll find items such as Acorn Squash, Black Bass Ceviche, Beef Heart Anticuchos, Black Eyed Pea Hummus and Maitake Mushrooms. With advance notice, they can also arrange Whole Animal Dinners, such as Suckling Pig, Lamb, Goat, Duck, Chicken or Fish.

One of their famous specialties is their Fried Chicken ($15) with Thai Bird Chili Salt. You receive four ample-sized pieces of boneless fried chicken, with your choice of dipping sauce, Buttermilk Ranch or Chipotle BBQ. I chose the Chipotle BBQ sauce, which had a pleasant tangy and slightly spicy taste. The fried chicken has a very crisp, crunchy and flavorful coating, covering the moist and tender chicken within. I can easily understand why this chicken is so beloved, and at this price, I think it is a very good value as well.

The Ricotta Cavatelli ($22), made with a veal bolognese, parmesan, and bread crumbs, was a stunner! The tender cavatelli was pillowy soft, but with a sufficient texture so its wasn't mushy, a very well-made pasta. The veal bolognese was meaty, flavorful and spiced well, an excellent base for the cavatelli, enhanced by the cheese and the crunchy texture of the bread crumbs. On a winter's evening, this is perfect comfort food, made to satisfy the belly and soul. It even looks beautiful, the type of dish that immediately draws your attention. Highly recommended!

BISq is consistently excellent, and my most recent experience was just further evidence of why it is one of my favorite restaurants. An intriguing wine list, delicious food and excellent service. So what are you waiting for? Make a reservation to dine at BISq!

2018: Favorite Restaurants & Food-Related Items

What were some of my favorite restaurants of the past year?

Let me continue the lists of my best recommendations and favorites of 2018. I have already posted my three Top Wine lists, my Favorite Wine-Related Items, and my Top Ten Favorite Restaurant Dishes, and now I want to address my Favorite Restaurants of the past year as well as some of my other Favorite Food-Related Items

This is certainly not a complete list but it is more a sampling of memorable restaurants and food items I've experienced and/or posted about over the past year. This is also a purely subjective list, based on my own preferences, and makes no claims about being the "best" of anything. But all of the items here have earned my strong recommendations and I hope you will enjoy them as well. For more Restaurant reviews, you can just search my blog posts for the past year.

Favorite Hot New Restaurants: This category includes several restaurants that have opened in the last few months, which have already impressed me, but which I haven't yet written a review. In early 2019, I'll likely review these worthy restaurants (after additional visits).
     Tonno in Wakefield: This is the second location of Chef Anthony Caturano's Italian Seafood restaurant. I eagerly anticipated its opening and it easily lives up to my high expectations.
     Kamakura in Boston: Chef Youji Iwakura has brought Japanese Kaiseki cuisine to Boston and the restaurant is aesthetically cool and the food is killer.
     Feng Shui in Burlington: The sixth location of this Chinese restaurant opened near the Burlington Mall and their lunch buffet is compelling, and their cocktails are quite good.
     Home Taste in Arlington: A second location of this Chinese restaurant, they specialize in delicious hand-pulled noodles. hand-made dumplings, Chinese casseroles and more.
     Aaron's Taco Cart'el in Stoneham: A small, casual and tasty spot for tacos, burritos and nachos, where  customization rules.

Favorite New Haitian/Dominican Restaurant: From delightfully flaky Paté to Jerk Beef Sliders, from savory Griot to a Cream Corn Souffle, Infused Kreyol in Malden is making delicious and compelling food. It's a tiny spot that once was home to a bakery but it's well worth seeking out. This isn't a cuisine you often see in the Malden+ area and thus there was a need for such a restaurant. Prices are very reasonable, service is usually very good, and the freshness of their dishes is impressive. And their Paté was one of my Top Ten Restaurant Dishes of 2018.

Favorite Suburban Italian Restaurant: Il Casale, with locations in Belmont and Lexington, is killing it, especially with their wine dinners. Such professional service, exquisite food, and interesting drinks, from wine to cocktails. Their popularity, judged by how they can sell out an entire restaurant for a wine dinner when most other places are lucky to fill a table or two, is indicative of how well they are received in their community. And their Ragu Bianco was one of my Top Ten Restaurant Dishes of 2018.

Favorite South American Restaurant: In Watertown, the former owners the famed Cambridge restaurant Salts, have started a new restaurant, La Bodega By Salts, which reflects owner Analia Verolo's homeland of Uruguay. Much of the menu consists of small plates, a great way to experience a number of dishes, which either have Uruguayan or Spanish roots. The food is fantastic, the wine list has plenty of Uruguayan wines, and their cocktails are stellar. Service is excellent and the restaurant itself is cool, especially where they have reused an old railroad car. And their Chivito was one of my Top Ten Restaurant Dishes of 2018.

Favorite Japanese Restaurant: Chef Chris Chung is rocking it in Inman Square in Cambridge at Momi Nonmi, a casual Japanese izakaya with some Hawaiian influence. The food is amazing, with ingredients that are fresh and high quality, including rarities not commonly found in the area. The cuisine is also inventive and innovative, with plenty of special dinner events. Chef Chung's culinary skills are top notch. They also have an impressive Sake, Shochu and cocktail program. Again, this is another small restaurant but one you should not miss. And their Teppanyaki Loco Moco was one of my Top Ten Restaurant Dishes of 2018.

Favorite Tasting Menu: Around since 2016, The Table at Season To Taste, located in North Cambridge, offers a four-course tasting menu each evening which changes every 4-6 weeks. You have two options for each course and the food is delicious and inventive, supported by an excellent wine program. It is a small and cozy restaurant, with an open kitchen, and you receive very professional service. And their Brown Rice & Sweet Potato Congee was one of my Top Ten Restaurant Dishes of 2018.

Favorite Brunch: At Ledger Restaurant & Bar, in Salem, they have an excellent Brunch Menu, from a 22-ounce Bloody Mary to their home-made Donuts, from Eggs Benedict to Banana Bread. Excellent service, a patio during the summer, and a menu of enticing dishes. Have a breakfast dish or a more lunch dish, such as a Fried Chicken Thigh Sandwich or a Breakfast Burger. And their Chicken & Waffles was one of my Top Ten Restaurant Dishes of 2018.

Favorite Fusion Cuisine: Though it was only available for several days around Cinco de Mayo, the "Grexico" menu, a combination of Mexican and Greek cuisine, at Committee was fusion cuisine at its best. The various dishes seamlessly blended ingredients from both cuisines, creating delicious and inventive dishes that thoroughly impressed me. Grecomole, Guajillo Hummus, Churros with Merenda, and much more. I hope they will hold this event again in 2019, and I could easily see this fusion cuisine centering a new restaurant. And their Lamb Barbacoa Tacos was one of my Top Ten Restaurant Dishes of 2018.

Favorite Chef's Return: Famed Chef Marisa Iocco returned to Spiga in Needham, transforming their Italian menu but maintaining some of his well-known specialties. You'll find dishes like Guazzetti, a unique Italian stew and Spiga might be the only local restaurant serving this item. Their Pizza is excellent and their Pasta dishes are killer. A cozy spot, it is open for lunch and dinner, and is worth the journey to Needham. And their Timballo was one of my Top Ten Restaurant Dishes of 2018.

Favorite Restaurant Dessert: After enjoying the savory options from Chef Marisa Iocco at Spiga, you can peruse their Dessert menu but I think your best option is her famed Bread Pudding, which I first enjoyed several years ago. I've even recommended people start their meal with the Bread Pudding so you ensure you aren't too full after dinner to enjoy it. Every spoonful is absolutely delicious, a hedonistic treat which I cannot recommend enough. Great texture to the bread, a nice blend of sweet and salty in the sauce, and nice hints of vanilla. We really need a bakery that specializes in Bread Pudding.

Favorite Hidden Restaurant City: Malden has plenty of interesting restaurants, especially Asian ones, but you wouldn't suspect that some fascinating dishes are "hidden" within rather ordinary appearing spots. From its storefront, you'd think Classic Pizza is your typical pizza and sub shop however they also have a small, but delicious menu of Indian dishes, including a killer Chicken Tikka Masala. Jay's Pizza also appears to be a normal pizza and sub joint, but they also sell Nepalese Momos, dumplings. In 2019, I'll be checking out other pizza joints in Malden to see if any others are hiding more unique and tasty dishes.

Favorite Food Book: Written  by Gabriella Opaz & Sonia Andersson Nolasco, with photography by Ryan Opaz, the compelling Porto: Stories From Portugal's Historic The Bolhão Market succeeds on many levels. It discusses the history of Portuguese cuisine while also telling intimate stories of the various vendors at the Bolhão Market. This is not some dry travelogue but rather a seductive lure intended to convert you into a culinary lover of northern Portugal. It will work well as a reference guide as well, something to turn to from time to time to better understand Portuguese cuisine. Highly recommended.

Favorite Culinary School: NECAT is a local culinary school which trains people from challenging backgrounds, from ex-convicts to recovering addicts, from the homeless to the chronically unemployed. NECAT fills an important need for culinary help while helping numerous people achieve a better life. It is such a worthy school, helping to transform lives, and it really touches my heart. It helps individuals while also helping the community, having recently celebrated its 5th Anniversary. I continue to try to raise awareness of NECAT so that its good work can continue and even expand.

Favorite Food Trade Event: Once again, I have selected the Seafood Expo North America (SENA) as my favorite. It is a massive trade event, a three day event showcasing purveyors of seafood and related vendors. You'll find tons of free seafood samples and learn plenty, from sustainability to cooking. The Seafood Show is an engaging event and you can read my latest articles here: Part 1, Part 2, Part 3. The Seafood Show is compelling on many levels and I look forward to attending the next SENA in March 2019. Hope to see you there too.

Favorite Food History Article: This year, I'm especially proud of my article, "Water Doughnuts": Some Bagel History. I found numerous fascinating newspaper articles, dating back as far as 1930, about bagels. There were Recipes for making bagels at home, information about various flavored bagels, canned bagels, pizza bagels and more. More writers need to use old newspaper archives in their research as you never know what intriguing information you will find.

What were some of your favorite restaurants this year?

2018: Top Ten Restaurant Dishes

What were some of my favorite restaurant dishes of the past year?

Let me continue the lists of my best recommendations and favorites of 2018. I have already posted three Top Wine lists and my Favorite Wine-Related Items. Now I want to move onto food and showcase my Top Ten Restaurant Dishes of the past year.

This list includes ten dishes which I not only enjoyed immensely, but which I also found to be particularly compelling for various reasons. They might be especially delicious or something more unique, but all stand out for some particular reason, above the other dishes I have tasted this past year. These are the type of dishes I would order again and again, and which I would highly recommend. And I'll note that all of these restaurants are located in Massachusetts.

This is certainly not a complete list but it's more a sampling of memorable dishes I have experienced and/or posted about over the past year. It is also a purely subjective list, based on my own preferences, and makes no claims about being the "best" of anything. But all of the items here have earned my strong recommendations and I hope you will enjoy them as well. This list is not in any order of preference, so all receive equal accolades. For more of my favorite restaurant dishes, you can just search my blog posts for the past year.

Ragu Bianco at Il Casale (Belmont)
At a San Felice wine dinner, I was thoroughly impressed with their Fusilli fatti in casa con ragù "bianco" di carne e salamino di cinghiale (Handmade fusilli with "white" meat ragù and diced wild boar salami). This "ragu bianco" is traditional mostly in northern Italy, including Tuscany, and it is made with cream rather than tomatoes. This was simply a perfect dish, with homemade pasta cooked just right, plenty of savory and tender meat, a touch of earthiness, and a cream sauce that added plenty of flavor. The sauce was neither cloying or overly heavy, and I could easily have devoured a couple more plates. It is rare to see a ragu bianco at local restaurants, and that really needs to change if this dish is an example of what can be created. The Chef even provided me a copy of the Recipe, and we've made it at home successfully.

Paté at Infused Kreyol (Malden)
Infused Kreyol serves Haitian and Dominican dishes and one of their Small Bites is the Paté, a flaky pastry filled with shredded chicken, ground beef, cod fish or veggie. I've tasted three of the four, excluding the veggie, and loved them! They are made fresh each day, and the pastry is light, flaky and buttery, exactly what you want it to be. The ample fillings have intense and tasty flavors, spiced well. And at only $2.50 each, they are a great value too. The Paté are kept near the register to it is easy to stop by and pick up a few to enjoy at home.

Shrimp Marsala at Island Creek Oyster Bar (Burlington)
This compelling dish is made with Casarecce pasta, roasted mushrooms, and Marsala cream. As I love a good Marsala sauce, I knew I had to try this dish and it was absolutely delicious, a rich dish which was well balanced, the key to the dish's success. The creamy Marsala sauce wasn't overly sweet and the pasta, cooked perfectly, and was an excellent vessel for the sauce. The plump shrimp, coated with the creamy Marsala, were exquisite and the roasted mushrooms added some earthiness and umami to the dish. It was comfort food, a hearty portion of Sicilian-inspired seafood.

Lamb Barbacoa Tacos at Committee (Boston)
To honor Cinco de Mayo, Committee created a special "Grexico" menu, fusing Greek and Mexican cuisines. My favorite dish of the evening were the Lamb Barbacoa Tacos, made with braised lamb, tzatziki, and Fix beer (a Greek beer) guajillo, atop grape leaf-corn tortillas. Grape leaves were crumbled into the mixture of the corn tortillas, providing its different color and texture. They were unique and delicious, such a delightful fusion of cuisines. Who would have thought such a combination could be so tasty? The lamb was moist and tender, just exquisitely prepared, and the entirety of the taco worked so well. I could easily see a Greek-Mexican Taco joint doing very well in the Boston area.

Timballo at Spiga (Needham)
This hearty dish is made with crespelle (kind of an Italian crepe), meat ragú, and locally sourced dried mozzarella. What an amazing dish, such excellent comfort food! It reminded me in some respects to a lasagna, though the crespelle is softer. The ragú contained plenty of flavorful meat in a superb red sauce, and there was lots and lots of gooey cheese. It is an amply portioned dish so bring your appetite. So much flavor in a superb dish, perfect for a chilly winter evening.

Chivito at La Bodega By Salts (Watertown)
Chivito, which literally means "small goat," is a popular sandwich in Uruguay, and generally is a steak sandwich with a variety of toppings. The Chivito al Pan is sliced beef tenderloin, country ham, bacon, and a fried egg. It is quite a large sandwich, and a bit messy to eat, but it was also quite tasty, with plenty of tender meats. The soft roll enhanced the sandwich, which is large enough to make its own meal. An excellent comfort food and I understand its popularity in Uruguay.

Teppanyaki Loco Moco by Momi Nonmi (Cambridge)
Speaking of comfort food, the Teppanyaki Loco Moco hits the spot. It is composed of a bed of rice, topped by a grilled grass-fed beef patty and a fried egg. Tableside, a sizzling gravy is then added to the dish. Wow, this would be the perfect hangover food! The rich and savory gravy was a superb addition to this dish, enhancing the flavor of the beef and egg. The yolk also added its own richness to the dish, and eating the gravy soaked rice was pure pleasure. I certainly didn't need or want a bun for this burger. You probably wouldn't expect to find a burger here, but you need to check it out as I bet you'll place it on your list as one of the best burger dishes in the Boston+ area.

Jhol Momos at Jay's Pizza (Malden)
Who would have suspected that your typical pizza, subs, and ice cream shop would also carry Nepalese Momos? Their Jhol Momo dish consists of 10 hot Momos in a cold broth. The dichotomy between the hot and cold was initially a little jarring, as it isn't a usual combination you find in many cuisines. However, after the initial trepidation, I found that the combination actually worked well. The momos themselves possessed a fairly thin dumpling wrapper that had just the right amount of consistency, and they were filled with an ample portion of a tasty pork and spice mixture. On their own, the momos make an excellent dumpling. Now, the cold broth was intriguing, with a strong and complex curry taste, and it added to the flavor of the momos. The broth seemed to have lowered the temperature of the momos, transforming the hot dumplings into a dish that worked well on a hot summer day.

Chicken & Waffles at Ledger Restaurant (Salem)
The Brunch menu at Ledger is compelling, from their Cinnamon Rolls (pictured at the very top of this article) to their Home-made Donuts. Their Chicken & Waffles entree includes buttermilk fried chicken, a corn waffle, green chile butter, hot honey, and a side of pickles. The fried chicken was superb, with a great, crisp and clean coating, moist chicken with an added sweetness from the honey. The waffle too was very good, with only a mild corn flavor, enhanced by a subtle spice from the green chile butter. One of the best Chicken & Waffles dishes I've enjoyed in some time, and it is highly recommended.

Brown Rice & Sweet Potato Congee at The Table At Season To Taste (Cambridge)
The Brown Rice & Sweet Potato Congee was made with wild boar sausage, Matsutake mushrooms, pine nuts, and Szechuan chili. Congee is basically an Asian-type of rice porridge, and there are many variations in the various Asian countries. This dish impressed me with its depth of flavor, varied textures, and it was perfect for a chilly fall evening. There was plenty of moist, tender wild boar, chunks of sweet potatoes, and crunchy pine nuts, There was a mild spiciness to the dish which built over time, and it was also an ample-sized dish. Pure comfort food and highly recommended.

What were some of your favorite restaurant dishes of the past year?

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I am back again with a new edition of Thursday Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting, upcoming food & drink events.
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1) Making plans post-New Year's Eve revelry can be tough both mentally and physically, but  Puritan & Co. is here to help. On January 1st, the folks at Puritan & Co. will be throwing a brunch celebration based on their favorite hangover cure, the Vegas buffet.

Tickets are available for one of two seatings- 11 a.m. to 1 p.m. or 1:30 to 3:30 p.m. Tickets include as many trips as you'd like to a loaded buffet offering housemade pastries, raw bar, ribeye and smoked pork loin on the carving station, bagels with cured fish and every schmear you've ever dreamt about, sourdough waffles, and more; one complimentary bloody mary, spritz, or mimosa. There will also be a cash bar available.

Tickets cost $100 and can be purchased here: Eventbrite. Refunds can be made up to 7 days before. If you'd like to buy tickets for a large group, please send a note to rebecca@puritancambridge.com

2) On Tuesday, December 4, from 7pm-10pm, Chef Daniel Bruce and the team at the Rowes Wharf Bar are excited to welcome LOUIS XIII Cognac for a reception and three-course dinner hosted by Brand Ambassador Philippe Vasilescu. Enjoy one of the world’s most coveted and expensive spirits while indulging in an inspired three-course meal.

First created in 1874, Louis XIII Cognac is an exquisite blend of up to 1,200 grapes eaux-de-vie sourced 100% from Grande Champagne, the first cru of the Cognac region. The spirit ranges from at least 40 years to 100 years in age. Each decanter is individually numbered and designed after an original 16th Century flask, made from fine crystal. The classic 750ml Louis XIII decanter retails for $3,000. Louis XIII is a product of Remy Martin.

The full menu for the Louis XIII dinner is as follows:
Reception
2009 LOUIS Roederer Cristal Champagne
First Course
Caviar Topped Flash Seared Sturgeon Popped Amaranth, Cognac Cream
LOUIS XIII de Rémy Martin
Second Course
Mint & Fennel Laced Slow Roasted Colorado Lamb Chop (Crispy Wild Mushrooms, Baby Rabe, Black Garlic, Pearl Onion Confit)
2003 Château Cos d'Estournel
Grand Finale
Apple Tart Tatine
Grapefruit Sorbet, Smoked Caramel Fennel Pollen
LOUIS XIII Rémy Martin

Tickets can be purchased on Eventbrite for $350 per person (including tax and gratuity). This is a 21+ event.

3) Executive Pastry Chef Joshua Livsey and the entire team at Harvest welcome guests to indulge in a tasty doughnut pop-up that is inspired by the classic holiday movie, The Grinch. On Saturday, December 8th, starting at 10am, the Grinch is stealing more than Christmas with a very special doughnut pop-up. Executive Pastry Chef Joshua Livsey, a doughnut devotee and finalist on the Food Network’s Holiday Baking Championship, has crafted a series of festive creations.

The custom doughnuts are $3 each (plus tax) and available in the following seasonal flavors:
Where are you, Christmint (Mint Chocolate)
Who Pudding (Eggnog)
Max Snax (Gingerbread)
Cinn-dy Lou Who (Cinnamon)
You’re a Green One, Mr. Grinch (Pistachio)

Guests are encouraged to arrive early as Joshua’s doughnut pop ups are known to sell out early.

4) On Wednesday, December 5th at 7 p.m., dbar will treat guests to taste of bubbles paired with a four-course dinner. The Best of Bubbles Wine Dinner will feature seasonal parings such as crab cake  with various sparkling wines.

The full menu will include:
First
Pear and Frisée salad, Hazelnut Vinaigrette, Laura Chenel Goat Cheese
Bollicini Prosecco Veneto, Italy
Second
Crab Cake, Delicata Squash Ribbons, Bernaise, Grilled Lemon
Pol Roger White Foil Champagne France
Main
Roast Pork Loin and Brunos BBQ Ribs, Black eyed peas and collard Greens, Crispy Shallots
Scarpetta Frico Lambrusco Emilia Romagna, Italy
Dessert
Créme Brulée with Spiced Plum Sorbet
Cavas Hill Cuvée Panot - Cava Rosé Penedès, Spain

Cost: $65 per person.
Reservations can be made by phone at (617) 265-4490.

The Table at Season To Taste: An Intimate Gem

As I've mentioned before, it's usually the newer restaurants that get the most attention. Thus, as time goes by, some excellent restaurants fall off the radar, despite the fact they remain worthy of your attention. They are generally known by the appreciative locals that live near the restaurant, but others may rarely make the effort to journey to those spots. Shining the light on these under-appreciated gems is more than warranted.

Recently, I dined, as a media guest, at one such restaurant, The Table at Season To Taste, located in northern Cambridge on Massachusetts Avenue, not far from the Arlington line. Having opened in 2016, the restaurant has an unassuming facade and it adjoins their catering division. The restaurant is owned by Robert Harris, a chef who graduated from the Culinary Institute of America and has worked at other local restaurants including Olives, Rialto, East Coast Grill, EVOO, and Casablanca. I'd never dined here before and knew little about it until recently. Now, I can't wait to return and try their new menu when it changes.

Inside, you'll find an intimate restaurant, with only twenty-seats and an open kitchen. It has a homey vibe, with four seats located at the counter in front of the kitchen and sixteen seats at tables on the left side of the restaurant. I love open kitchens and enjoy the ambiance of this tiny spot. Due to its small size, I strongly suggest you make reservations to ensure you can get a seat.

Executive Chef Carl Dooley, a Cambridge native presides over the kitchen, and his passion for cooking and restaurants extends back to high school, when he started working at a lobster shack in Maine. He eventually graduated from the New England Culinary Institute, and in time, started working as Chef de Cuisine at Craigie on Main under Chef Tony Maws. He earned a “Rising Star Chef” award in 2015 and participated in the 13th season of Top Chef. In 2016, he went out on his own, to head the kitchen at The Table. I'll note that several of The Table's employees also once worked at Craigie on Main.

The Table offers a Four-Course Tasting Menu, priced at $98 (with tax and hospitality included). For each course, you have your choice of two options, and the entire menu changes every 4-6 weeks. A Vegetarian menu is available upon request and you can order a la carte options ($17-$35) at the Wine Bar seats.

Their pricing system is progressive, intended to benefit everyone who works at the restaurant, both front and back of the house, and your gratuity is included within the pricing. As their website states, "As a means to more equitably support our team and cultivate a sustainable staffing model we have all decided to no longer accept gratuity, but rather include labor costs in the price of our food and beverage. This ensures a living wage for our entire staff, both front and back of the house." Thus, when you look at their menu prices, including their beverage costs, consider that tax, gratuity and hospitality is built into those prices.

With your dinner, you can order a Wine Pairing for $55 per person. Jesse Eslin, their Wine Director, has curated an intriguing wine, beer, cider and beverage list. You'll find interesting non-alcoholic choices, including House-Made Shrubs, Non-alcoholic Wine, Spindrift Soda, and MEM Cold Brew Iced Tea. There is a small list of 12 beers and ciders ($6-$18), including items such as Schlenkerla Marzen and Dieu de Ciel Peche Morte (a Montreal Imperial Coffee Stout).

The wine list certainly perked my interest, which contained more fascinating small producers, some using more unique grapes. They have 9 wines available by the glass, including 1 Sparkling, 3 White, 3 Red, and 2 Rosé wines, priced $15-$17. They also have about 50 wines available by the bottle, including 3 Sparkling, 12 White, 17 Red, and 17 "Last Call" wines, priced from $59 to $143. Almost half the list is from France, with others coming from Germany, Italy, Spain, Austria, Portugal, Oregon, California, Texas, and New York. The list changes on a regular basis as well. Wine lovers will be excited as they peruse the list, curious to sample so many different bottles. The Wine Pairing option is a good choice to experience several different wines, chosen specifically to match each dish.

For example, we began dinner with a flute of the Hild Elbling Trocken, a German sparkling wine made from the more unique Elbling grape. I've never tasted this grape before and this example was impressive, with bright acidity, pleasant flavors of tart lemon, apple and peach, and an underlying minerality. Dry and clean, this bubbly was an excellent aperitif and it's inclusion is indicative of the type of intriguing wines that Jesse has compiled.

Another of the wines we enjoyed was the Filipa Pato Tinto, a Portuguese wine made from the Baga grape. This is a killer producer who always delivers, and this wine wasn't an exception. Silky smooth, with delicious black fruits flavors, enhanced by spice notes and a touch of chocolate.

During our dinner, the wine service was conducted by Felicia Aronson, who usually spends about half her time working the floor, and the other half working in the kitchen. She brought plenty of passion and wine knowledge, providing excellent service.

Prior to our first course being served, we received an extra starter, which included Venison Salami, Mutsu apples & Shelburne Farms Cheddar, and a Turnip & Pear Soup. A fun, tasty and seasonal group of dishes. Though I'm not a turnip fan, the creamy soup was good, with bright pear flavors. And the venison salami was excellent, with a touch of rustiness and nice spices.

As for dinner, as there were two of us, we could each order a different option, and thus have the opportunity to experience the entire menu. I highly recommend this course of action if you don't mind sharing.

For the First Course, one option was the Smoked Trout & Cabbage Salad, made with apples, house-made mustard and pickled turnip. I tasted the trout which was cooked just right and was flavorful with a pungent touch from the mustard.

I selected the option of Duck Liver Mousse En Gelle, cured duck breast with pickled cherries and grilled onion. The dish doesn't photograph well because of the very dark cherry gelle atop the mousse, but it was absolutely delicious. A silky and earthy mousse with sweetness from the cherries, I slathered plenty on the home-made, grilled bread.

For the Second Course, one option was the Local Broccoli Ravioli, with little neck clams, oregano, and Parmigiano-Reggiano. My dining companion, who had been at the restaurant before, loved these ravioli, mentioning they were one of her favorite items. I'll note that this was an ample-sized course and not just a small teaser.

I chose the Brown Rice & Sweet Potato Congee, with wild boar sausage, Matsutake mushrooms, pine nuts, and Szechuan chili. Congee is basically an Asian-type of rice porridge, and there are many variations in the various Asian countries. This dish impressed me with its depth of flavor, varied textures, and it was perfect for a chilly fall evening. There was plenty of moist, tender wild boar, chunks of sweet potatoes, and crunchy pine nuts, There was a mild spiciness to the dish which built over time, and it was also an ample-sized dish. Pure comfort food and highly recommended.

For the last savoy course, one option was the Roasted Chicken Thigh with butternut squash curry, pickled mango, and toasted almonds. I tasted the chicken, which was incredibly moist and flavorful, probably one of the best I've tasted in some time. The curry immediately brought to mind the tastes of India and perfectly complemented the chicken. Another winning dish.

My choice were the Glazed Local Scallops with heirloom apple purée, braised kimchee, and sesame oil. There was a great sear on the sweet scallops, and they were enhanced by the apple puree. Another well-composed and tasty dish, with Asian accents.

Desserts and breads are created by Pastry Chef Mary Edinger, who also once worked at Craigie on Main as well as No.9 Park.

The Pumpkin-Nicke Bundt Cake, with rum raisin ice cream, bittersweet chocolate sauce, and fried pepitas, was a fine seasonal dessert.

My choice was the Apple Slab Pie, made from local apples and topped by green cardamom ice cream. The light, flaky crust was buttery, the apples were tender and flavorful, and the ice cream added an intriguing flavor component with the cardamom. An excellent ending to this meal, and I would love to have this on my Thanksgiving table.

Overall, The Table at Season To Taste and Executive Chef Carl Dooley earn my hearty recommendation. From the intimate feel of the restaurant to the creativity and taste of the cuisine, the restaurant delivers a quality experience. Combine that with stellar service and a fascinating wine list, and the experience is even greater. I look forward to checking out their next menu, to see the new creations of Chef Dooley and his team.

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I am back again with a new edition of Thursday Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting, upcoming food & drink events.
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1)  If you’re looking for every possible way to fit pumpkin into your diet this season, head to Kendall Square’s Sumiao Hunan Kitchen for pumpkin-laced recipes that will quench your autumn cravings. Sumiao has brought back a new rendition of their festive Sweet Pumpkin Cakes ($12) for the month of October. These little indulgences are filled with a rich, red bean paste and pan-fried until golden brown. It doesn’t end with October, though; Sumiao has two signature dishes that are here to stay all year long: Melted Gold Soup made with pumpkin and millet ($5) and a Stir-Fried Sweet Pumpkin dish made with garlic and fermented back soybean ($14).

Don’t forget: October 26 marks National Pumpkin Day…why not spend it at Sumiao?

Sweet Pumpkin Cakes are offered during normal operating hours throughout the month of October; Melted Gold Soup and Stir-Fried Sweet Pumpkin are offered during normal operating hours throughout the year.

2) Vialé restaurant in Cambridge is proud to announce the celebration of their 4-year anniversary in Central Square with dinner and drinks on Monday, October 15, from 5-10pm. Special beer and beer cocktails from Norwood's Castle Island Brewing Co. and fresh lobster specials from Scituate's Snappy Lobster will be available, alongside Vialé's full fall menu served à la carte.

In a joint statement from Vialé co-owners, Greg Reeves and Mark Young: "We're grateful to our families, current and former staff, neighbors, vendors, and friends for all of your support as we celebrate 4 years in Central Square. Special thanks to Cambridge School of Culinary Arts, Central Square Theater, The Dance Complex, Food For Free, Savenor's Cambridge, and Central Square Business Association. We're looking forward to being part of the ongoing revitalization of Central Square, and the Cambridge and Boston area restaurant communities for many years to come. We look forward to celebrating with everyone!!"

No advanced tickets will be necessary, but reservations are recommended by calling 617-576-1900

Culinary Creativity: Chef Brian Poe

Chef Brian Poe was born in the town of Macon (GA) and grew up in the foothills of the Blue Ridge Mountains. Poe went to school at Auburn University (AL) where he soon found himself in the kitchen, working his way up the back-of-house ranks at the Auburn University Hotel & Conference Center. From there, he was promoted to sous chef at the Northeast Atlanta Hilton – during the Olympics. Next Poe relocated to Scottsdale (AZ) as chef at Steamers Oyster Grill in Phoenix and then executive chef at the American Grill.

Over time, Poe moved to Massachusetts, currently living in Danvers, and eventually manned Poe’s Kitchen at the Rattlesnake Bar & Grill. It was there that Chef Poe became business partners with Gordon Wilcox of the Wilcox Hospitality Group. Together, in 2012, they opened The Tip Tap Room in Boston’s Beacon Hill neighborhood. Then, in 2015, they joined forces for the Bukowski Tavern. Their collaboration continued, and in 2018, Chef Poe became a partner in Parish Café, a Boston institution. In addition, Chef Poe is an active board member of the American Institute for Food & Wine and a board member of several local and national charities.

(Check out my Introduction to the Culinary Creativity series.)

Now onto the interview--

How important is culinary creativity to you? Why is it important?
Creativity is truly one of the most important aspects of cooking and hospitality. One should constantly be creatively thinking how and why can I do this better for the guests, for the flavor, for speed of service, and for highest quality taste and experience.

What are your most significant inspirations for your culinary creativity? What makes those matters so inspiring?
I read everything I can get my hands on old and new- I think there's close to 1,000 cookbooks in the office at Tip Tap and probably another four or five hundred at home. There's a few books at a time always on my desks or a table near me. I watch everything I can from the Masterclass Series of Thomas Keller or Alice Waters to the excellent Eat the World series on Amazon. When I feel in a slight rut, I'll re-watch Charlie Trotter’s The Evolution of Creativity on Amazon followed by something more modern (Ugly Delicious) or pull from the file cabinets to tap into old dishes that can be revisited and revised and then move on to watching or reading something modern to inspire new ideas. I also believe in management books like Creativity Inc. I've read it a few times and mentally sub out the word "movie" or "pixar" to restaurant- and it helps to remind me that creativity is a key player in all walks of life. Two other lifetime reference books that I turn to are Becoming a Chef & Culinary Artistry by Dosenberg & Page. I'll often pick those up to remind me of when I was a 20 year old cook- to balance back to what I love about creativity and cooking.

I also look around me everywhere I go. One of my favorite creative moments was at a beach bar, having a couple of beers and oysters in Nahant- a woman came up with the thickest New England accent, cigarette hanging out of her mouth, sunburnt, frizzed beach hair, holding her kids hands- and yelled "You guys serve Lime Rickey’s here?!?!?" Ding ding! A Cranberry & Angelica Lime Rickey Vinaigrette was born!

Where do you get your ideas for new recipes/dishes?
Reading, writing, traveling, eating, gardening, farmers, chefs and weather are top influencers.

What is your process of creating a new recipe or dish?
The night before I'll jot down ideas I didn't have time to get to today - before I leave the office. The next morning at the house, I go into the garden to see what's looking the best, then back at the restaurants - into the refrigerators to see what fits the weather outside, what came in fresh, what is at its peak. Then at the cutting boards in the basement kitchen at the Tip Tap Room it all begins to come together. So many of the specials that go on to the other restaurants are either inspired by what I cook at home or the Tip Tap. The Tip Tap Chalkboard Special dishes often become menu items at the other locations.

Do other members of your staff assist with creating ideas for new recipes/dishes?
I love cooking with the chefs at each restaurant. There's often moments where I'll stop them and say "Pretend I'm not the chef or owner today and pretend that we're just a couple of guys hanging out cooking"- and then there is a specific moment that you can feel the edge drop and we just start cranking out fun ideas- these moments carry on much further than just today’s special- the moment of just being cooks transcends into the vibe of the restaurants for weeks to come. I have so much fun doing this with all the guys and girls at Tip Tap, Parish, Lower Depths and Bukowski Cambridge. We all get to learn together and it builds a very special bond and energy between cooks.

How do you test new recipes/dishes?
First round is typically inspired by cooking/creating with the crew. The next round I try to remember everything we did. Then we write the recipe and have one of our lead people test the recipe to see if we missed anything (there is literally a moment in creativity where I "go blind" in having so much fun that we have to have another person test to see if we left something out) Then if all of that works- we take it to another restaurant or another cook to see if our writing of the recipe translates correctly. If it does- we put it on.

What is the most difficult part of culinary creativity?
Keeping the creative juices flowing. Some days after a tough run with the grown up side of the business (cooks calling out, equipment failures, snow storms or 100 degree days when the heat/air decides not to work, leases, licensing, plus an unexpected string of extra-long days) can stifle the creative juices. Creativity is often my medicine for stress.

Do you ever experience “writer’s block,” an inability to be creative, and if so, how do you deal with it?
Writers block does occur. That's when I go down to the farmers market and just stroll- or read something else nonfood related- to find my way back. I'm lucky to be at an age where I have recipes that I can pull to get us through a jam- but I most love creating new flavor experiences. Sometimes pulling from a fun time period in my career can help me reset and get going again. I'm also in a very interesting/lucky part of my career where I could feel like I'm not contributing a lot of creativity today at one restaurant but 30 minutes later I'm at another restaurant and I have an idea that then creates/inspires four new dishes at each restaurant.

Relate an unusual or interesting anecdote about the creation of one of your dishes.
Partnering into the Parish Cafe was one of the more unusual and interesting moments of my career. Here's an entire side of the menu that was created by the most talented chefs in the city. The other side of the menu has been staples of the restaurant for 25 plus years. Ultimately, it was the first time I've been in a restaurant that I didn't create every dish on the menu for probably 20. How can one politely create without offending the guests or former partners while still providing fun new dishes to help support and represent all of the culinary talent in the city? That has reinforced my philosophy that creativity in cooking should happen, and always do so respectfully. 

One last addition to creativity comes from Chef Chris Bianco in Phoenix Arizona- "The hardest thing to learn in cooking is restraint." My early days of creativity (my twenties) I went a little too far in trying to make it cool- learning to back off by an ingredient or two in an effort to make it delicious also requires its own sort of creativity. And some dishes may just need to be the classic that they are- so you have to creatively explain to a young energetic cook- that this dish is a classic and maybe we should just respect that- while somehow creatively building upon that great energy they bring to the table.

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I am back again with a new edition of Thursday Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting, upcoming food & drink events.
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1) Abe & Louie’s celebrates its twenty year anniversary with a sweet gesture for some of the area’s charitable organizations. Starting October 1st, the restaurant will feature a deliciously designed signature dessert that gives back to a different non-profit each month as part of their "20th Anniversary Community Give Back” program.

The specialty desserts are $12 each, with 20% of the proceeds being donated to the corresponding charity and matched by Tavistock Restaurant Collection– the parent company that owns Abe & Louie’s, as well as other restaurants in Massachusetts and throughout the country.

The campaign kicks off October 1st with a special red velvet cake topped with cream cheese icing and pumpkin Oreo ice cream to benefit the Leukemia & Lymphoma Society®(LLS) a dessert inspired by Acute Myeloid Leukemia (AML) survivor Mary Shertenlieb, whose inspiring story and efforts in the fight against cancer have touched hearts of the Boston community and beyond. Funds raised throughout October from the sale of the red velvet cake will support Light The Night®. Mary’s team of family & friends, ‘March with Mary’, have participated in the walk since 2013, raising more than $130,000. This October 17th, they will once again gather on the Boston Common with more than 5,000 participants to lift their lanterns and raise funds for research and support for patients and families. To find a walk in your area or support their efforts, visit LightTheNight.org.

In the three months following October, specialty desserts will be designed for the Ellie Fund in November, the Last Call Foundation in December, and the Pedro Martinez Foundation in January.

Guests can order the specialty desserts at any time during the operating hours.

2) Puritan & Company of Inman Square announces a very special upcoming winemaker dinner with Schramsberg Vineyards of Napa Valley. Join winemaker Hugh Davies on Tuesday, October 16th, from 6:30pm-9:30pm, for the opportunity of tasting exquisite sparkling wines followed by a four course lamb dinner prepared by chef/owner Will Gilson.

In 1965, Jack and Jamie Davies established Schramsberg as a sparkling wine estate on the property originally founded in 1862 by German immigrant Jacob Schram. At a time when there were only 22 bonded wineries in Napa Valley and fewer than 100 acres of California vineyards planted to Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, they set out to make world-class sparkling wine in the true méthode traditionelle style. Theirs was the first California winery to provide a Blanc de Blancs in 1965 followed by a Blanc de Noirs in 1967. Now their son Hugh Davies, who was born the same year the Davies arrived at Schramsberg, leads the winery’s management and winemaking team. This is an extraordinary opportunity to taste what are arguably the best sparkling wines made in America

The Menu includes:
Arrival
2014 Blanc de Blancs North Coast, California
sourdough waffle (caviar and crème fraîche)
First Course
2014 Blanc de Noirs North Coast, California
2015 Brut Rosé North Coast, California
seared and chilled scallop salad (pear purée, sea beans, brown butter bread crumbs)
Second Course
2016 Davies Vineyards Pinot Noir “Nobles Vineyard” Fort Ross-Seaview, Sonoma County
charcoal-grilled duck (lentils, potato purée, onions, cranberry jus)
Main Course
2015 J. Davies Cabernet Sauvignon Diamond Mountain, Napa Valley
smoked rack of lamb (mint salsa verde, heirloom carrots, roasted parsnip)
Dessert
2009 J. Schram Brut North Coast
aged goat cheese (figs, pistachios, toasted brioche)

The $145 tickets are inclusive of dinner, wine, and gratuity and are available at EventBrite. Please email rebecca@puritancambridge.com if you have any allergy or dietary restrictions that chef should be aware of.

3) If you love spicy cocktails and tequila is your poison, meet Sumiao Hunan Kitchen’s The Devil’s Nest, an October cocktail special created by the Kendall Square restaurant’s bar team just in time for Halloween. "The Devil’s Nest might sound evil but the flavors are angelic, featuring sweet ingredients like passion fruit puree, lime juice and a dash of grenadine. Staying true to its name, it also packs some fiery flavors with muddled jalapenos that are shaken with tequila. Chile “horns” as a garnish brings it to life."

WHEN: Available during normal operating hours throughout the month of October.
COST: $10 per cocktail

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I am back again with a new edition of Thursday Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting, upcoming food & drink events.
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1) The Table at Season to Taste is proud to host the first-ever Boston Chefs for Gun Safety dinner at Wright-Locke Farm in Winchester on September 17, at 6:00PM. Chef Carl Dooley and Pastry Chef Mary Edinger of The Table are delighted to welcome some of the city’s best chefs to participate in this event at the picturesque barn at Wright-Locke Farm for a very special dinner benefiting an important and all-too-real cause.

VIP Guest chefs creating a memorable five course dinner paired with wine include: Alex Saenz/BISq, Cassie Piuma/Sarma, David Bazirgan /Bambara and Lydia Reichert/Sycamore. Guest speakers at the dinner will include representatives from Moms Demand Action Massachusetts and the Survivors Network. All proceeds will benefit Everytown for Gun Safety.

The Table’s Chef Carl Dooley explains why the restaurant felt it was important and necessary to host this first-time event. “After the Parkland shooting in February, I asked our team if we could donate all the profits from that night’s sold-out dinner service to Everytown for Gun Safety. We all felt strongly that it was important to put our money where our hearts were, and that shooting, like each one before it, just made no sense at all. When the opportunity was presented to host another benefit with our friends at Wright-Locke Farm this year, this just felt like exactly the right cause for us to put our time and energy behind. I never felt scared going to school. This was something I never thought about, and now that I have a daughter, I hate that kids don’t have that same sense of security in their learning environment that I had.”

Rina Schneur of Moms Demand Action, MA says, “We are extremely grateful to The Table at Season to Taste and the participating chefs for their decision to donate the proceeds of this unique event to Moms Demand Action and Everytown. We are a volunteer-based organization and this donation will help us greatly with materials and expenses related to our efforts to recruit and mobilize members, and lobby for sensible gun safety laws. "

Robert Harris, owner, The Table at Season To Taste shares, “We are excited to work with Wright Locke Farm for this event. They share our passion for sourcing from our local growers, and they are a leader in providing agriculture education in the town of Winchester. They care about families and communities. We’ve hosted several events at this beautiful venue over the years and we are so grateful Wright-Locke Farm has agreed to host us for this event. This is such an important cause, I am glad we can create a memorable dinner and experience for everyone participating, from the setting to the food to the live music, it will be a one-of-a-kind evening.”

This first-time event is an RSVP/Ticket event. Please reserve your tickets at http://www.cambridgetable.com/shop/gun-safety-event-tickets

2) The Bodega Canal teams invites guests to celebrate Taco Tuesday with delicious taco deals every Tuesday evening. Steps away from TD Garden, new Mexican hotspot Bodega Canal celebrates Taco Tuesday with special deals.

Every Tuesday evening, from 4:30 to 10 p.m. (unless otherwise noted in case of TD Garden event), Bodega Canal offers a $1 rotating taco and $2 specialty rotating taco. On event nights at TD Garden, Taco Tuesday specials are available beginning at the event start time.

Georgian Wine: All About Context (Part 2)

"Present-day Georgia may occupy the land where the vine itself was first domesticated; it’s recently surrendered to archaeological attention the world’s earliest pure-wine residues, dating back some 8,000 years. It has an extraordinary patrimony of indigenous varieties, and unique wine-making techniques, too, unchanged for a millennium or more; these have proved seductively interesting for the natural wine movement worldwide, and for those who perceive modern winemaking as an impasse."
--Andrew Jefford, Decanter Magazine

In Georgian Wine: All About Context (Part 1), I discussed attending a recent seminar, titled "Georgia in Context," presided over by Alice Feiring, a Georgian wine expert and proponent of natural wines, and Taylor Parsons, a sommelier from Los Angeles. In that previous article, I related the essential information about Georgian wine that was presented at the seminar. Accompanying this presentation, we also were led through a tasting of four different Georgian wine flights, totaling about 14 wines, and I now want to talk about those wines.

Nearly all of the wines we sampled would be considered "natural wines," which shouldn't be a surprise as Alice Feiring was one of the presenters. In general, these wines were produced in a traditional manner, using indigenous varieties (often from organic vineyards), stem & skin maceration, fermentation and/or aging in qvevri, natural yeasts, and no filtration or fining. These producers also tended to be small operations, making under 3000 cases annually.

In general, I found these wines to be some of the "cleanest" natural wines I've tasted, lacking the "funkiness" that turns off some people. The white wines certainly are more savory than fruity and I love the transformation that occurs with the extended skin contact. The acidity tends to be high in many of these wines, making them excellent for food pairings as well as aging. I also enjoy the diversity of the red wines, especially Saperavi, which can be made into so many different styles.  Although these qvevri wines only comprise about 3% of the total production in Georgia, they are still important and worthy of attention.

We were supposed to start our tasting with a Georgian Pétillant Naturel (Pét-Nat), a sparkling wine made in the méthode ancestral, but it didn't arrive in time. There are about seven producers in Georgia currently making Pét-Nat, usually with the Chinuri grape. Instead, we sampled the 2015 Orgo Mtsvane Brut Blanc de Blanc, sourced from 50 year old vines. The base wine is fermented in qvevri, but without skin contact, and is aged for about two years in the bottles. It is made more in an international style, and I found it to be crisp and dry, fresh and savory, and a pleasant drink.

Our First Flight was a comparison of the white wines of West and East, two wines from Imereti and two from Kakheti. The 2016 Makaridze Tsolikouri is produced by a winery, founded in 2009, which is located in Imereti. Tsolikouri is the primary white grape of the West. This is a natural wine, with a fine amber color, crisp acidity, a delicious savoriness with intriguing spice notes. The 2016 Vino Martville Tsolikouri-Krakhuna, also from Imereti, is a blend of two white grapes and also is a natural wine. It was a bit more cloudy, very aromatic, and with high acidity and nice complexity.

Representing the East, the first wine was the 2014 Okro’s Wines Rkatsiteli, from Kakheti, and it too is a natural wine, fermenting in qvevri for about six months. With a darker amber color, this wine was impressive, with intense aromatics and a complex melange of flavors. Powerful spice notes, high acidity, salted almonds, dried fruit, and more. This is a wine to slowly savor, enjoying its subtle nuances as it sits in your glass over time. Highly recommended. The 2013 Cradle of Wine Rkatsiteli Blend ‘Gogi’s Wine’ is also a natural wine from Kakheti that is macerated in the qvevri for about six months and is then aged for another three years in qvevri. It too was interesting and delicious, though maybe a bit less complex that the Okro.

Our Second Flight was named Other Stars, meant to showcase some of the other indigenous white grapes of Georgia. The 2016 Archil Guniava Wine Cellar Krakhuna, another natural wine, is from Imereti, made from the Krakhuna grape. It was aromatic and fruity, with crisp acidity, spice notes and was very approachable. This would be a good choice to introduce a newcomer to the wines of Georgia. The 2015 Tchotiashvili Mtsvane, a natural wine from Kakheti, is made from the Mtsvane grape. I found this wine to be aromatic and spicy, herbal and savory, and quite tasty. There were some subtle stone fruit flavors that provided a nice depth to the wine. Highly recommended.

The 2015 Do-Re-Mi Kisi, a natural wine from Kakheti, is made from the Kisi grape. It possessed high acidity and was more tannic, accented by floral and spice notes. The 2016 Orgo Kisi Old Vines, a natural wine from Kakheti, is also made from the Kisi grape. Some of the old vines extend back to 1930. This wine was also acidic and tannic, with floral and spices notes, as well as the taste of ripe peaches. It was more complex and concentrated than the other Kisi and I really enjoyed its taste. Highly recommended.

The Third Flight, titled Modern Approaches, and presented three Saperavi wines, the primary red grape of the East. Saperavi grapes were once used to color yarn and silk dyes, and now can be used to produce a wide range of wine styles. Saperavi is one of the few red grapes with both high acid and high tannins, like Nebbiolo and Cabernet Sauvignon, making it excellent for aging. The 2015 Doqi Saperavi was light and fresh, with mild tannins, high acidity, and plenty of red and black fruit flavors. Very approachable, and a wine that could pair well with burgers to pizza.

The 2016 Chubini Saperavi, another natural wine, was also very fruity and soft, with a touch more tannins than the Doqi, but just as tasty and easy drinking. It was said this wine was uncommonly fruity for a qvevri wine. The 2014 Lukasi Saperavi was made in a more international style, being aged for about 12 months in French oak. Modeled after Napa Cabernet, this wine was pleasant but not impressive. Personally, I'm not looking for Georgian wines that mimic California wines.

The Final Flight, titled Indigenous Reds, presented three more wines, two made from Saperavi and one from a different red grape. The 2015 Gotsa Saperavi Rosé, from Kartli, is a natural wine and their vineyards should soon be certified Biodynamic. It was more of a light red color, rather than a pale pink, and was dry and crisp, with subtle red fruit flavors and a touch of earthiness. Very interesting and delicious, this would be pleasant this summer while you grill outside. The 2014 Shalauri Saperavi, another natural wine from Kakheti, was a bigger wine, yet still elegant and not overly tannic. There were more black fruit flavors, underlying spice notes, and a touch of savoriness. Absolutely delicious and highly recommended. This is a wine for hearty foods, like grilled meats, and something that would appeal to Cabernet lovers.

The 2015 Vartsikhe Otskhanuri Sapere, a natural wine from Imereti, is made from the Otskhanuri Sapere grape, a major one on the East and not related to Saperavi, despite the similarity in its name. It is said to be more akin to Cabernet Franc, and I enjoyed this dark and flavorful wine, with plenty of red and black fruits, mineral notes, hints of spice and a lengthy finish. Also highly recommended.

Once again, I'm impressed by the wines of Georgia. If you're not drinking Georgian wines yet, then you need to expand your vinous horizons and sample the bounty of this fine country. With over 500 indigenous grapes, 8000 years of wine-making, and some fascinating methods of wine production, you should fine plenty of interest in Georgian wines.