Showing posts with label Malden. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Malden. Show all posts

Monday, January 7, 2019

Rant: Do We Need a Super-Sized Soup Dumpling?

Sometimes a food dish sounds incredibly cool, but when you actually eat it, the dish loses some of its luster.

I love xiao long bao, a type of Chinese dumpling which are also known as "soup dumplings," although a number of Chinese restaurant menus translate it as "juicy dumplings." The most common origin story for xiao long bao is that they were created around 1875, in Nanxiang, a suburb of Shanghai. The alleged inventor sold them out of a food stall next to the Guyi Garden, a famous park in the city. I

Xiao long translates literally as "small, steaming basket" while bao, or more properly baozi, are "steamed buns." These dumplings are commonly steamed in small bamboo baskets, so the name is fairly literal. The dumplings are usually made with unraised flour, making them smooth and partially translucent. They are traditionally filled with pork, but other ingredients can also be used, everything from beef to seafood.

What primarily differentiates soup dumplings from other types of dumplings is that they contain a broth within the wrapper. Meat gelatin is placed inside the dumpling, and it melts when the dumpling is steamed, creating a savory broth. The traditional dipping sauce is Chinkiang vinegar, a black rice vinegar, with ginger slivers, that possesses a rich, smoky flavor.

Though it first opened around April 2017, District Kitchen, an Asian restaurant in Malden, had a grand re-opening in September 2018, which included a number of menu changes. District Kitchen is connected to All Seasons Table, another Asian restaurant in Malden (which is one of my favorites). With their new menu, they have been offering a super-sized xiao long bao, which certainly sounds intriguing but is it as good as it sounds?

I stopped by District Kitchen for lunch and found their menu has normal-sized soup dumplings listed as "Juicy Pork Bun Dumplings" (6 for $8), as well as the super-sized version, "Juicy Pork & Shrimp Bun Dumplings (1 for $8). I ordered the super-sized version, which you can view in the above two photos. It looks appealing and you get some sense of its size.

To truly understand the size of this soup dumpling though, you can see in the above photo how it compares to a regular-sized pork dumpling (not a soup dumpling). It looks impressive, though also a little bit intimidating.

They supply you with a straw so you can carefully pierce the dumpling skin and drink the hot broth within, being careful as that broth is very hot when it first arrives at your table. I very much enjoyed the broth, a complex and flavorful soup, and I needed to move the straw around the inside of the dumpling to ensure I got all of the broth. However, once the broth was gone, how was I going to eat the dumpling?

With normal-sized soup dumplings, you are given a spoon and chopsticks, sufficient for eating them. You use the chopsticks to place the dumpling on the spoon, and once you finish the broth, it is easy to eat the dimpling skin and meat/seafood inside. With the super-sized dumpling, I only had a pair of chopsticks. I would have needed a soup ladle or spatula to pick up and hold this huge dumpling, but neither was provided. It isn't really finger food, and it is too large to pick up fully with your chop sticks. You have to lift part of it out of the bamboo steamer and bite that section.

This is not an ideal way to eat a dumpling and it wasn't easy to get a proportionate amount of dumpling skins and meat/seafood in a single bite. In addition, the dumpling skin at the top of the dumpling was a bit thicker than normal, making it a more chewy, though the bottom of the dumpling skin was thinner. The taste was there, with a delightful meaty center, but the difficulty of eating this super-sized dumpling made the experience less than impressive.

Sure, it was fun to try this huge xiao long bao but I wouldn't order it again. I'd get the normal-sized soup dumplings instead. This is a cool idea which fails in the execution, being too difficult to eat properly.

And as a brief aside, I enjoyed the other dishes I ate at District Kitchen and I will be returning soon to check out more of their menu. Overall, my lunch experience was very good and it is worth checking out District Kitchen.

Wednesday, December 19, 2018

2018: Favorite Restaurants & Food-Related Items

What were some of my favorite restaurants of the past year?

Let me continue the lists of my best recommendations and favorites of 2018. I have already posted my three Top Wine lists, my Favorite Wine-Related Items, and my Top Ten Favorite Restaurant Dishes, and now I want to address my Favorite Restaurants of the past year as well as some of my other Favorite Food-Related Items

This is certainly not a complete list but it is more a sampling of memorable restaurants and food items I've experienced and/or posted about over the past year. This is also a purely subjective list, based on my own preferences, and makes no claims about being the "best" of anything. But all of the items here have earned my strong recommendations and I hope you will enjoy them as well. For more Restaurant reviews, you can just search my blog posts for the past year.

Favorite Hot New Restaurants: This category includes several restaurants that have opened in the last few months, which have already impressed me, but which I haven't yet written a review. In early 2019, I'll likely review these worthy restaurants (after additional visits).
     Tonno in Wakefield: This is the second location of Chef Anthony Caturano's Italian Seafood restaurant. I eagerly anticipated its opening and it easily lives up to my high expectations.
     Kamakura in Boston: Chef Youji Iwakura has brought Japanese Kaiseki cuisine to Boston and the restaurant is aesthetically cool and the food is killer.
     Feng Shui in Burlington: The sixth location of this Chinese restaurant opened near the Burlington Mall and their lunch buffet is compelling, and their cocktails are quite good.
     Home Taste in Arlington: A second location of this Chinese restaurant, they specialize in delicious hand-pulled noodles. hand-made dumplings, Chinese casseroles and more.
     Aaron's Taco Cart'el in Stoneham: A small, casual and tasty spot for tacos, burritos and nachos, where  customization rules.

Favorite New Haitian/Dominican Restaurant: From delightfully flaky Paté to Jerk Beef Sliders, from savory Griot to a Cream Corn Souffle, Infused Kreyol in Malden is making delicious and compelling food. It's a tiny spot that once was home to a bakery but it's well worth seeking out. This isn't a cuisine you often see in the Malden+ area and thus there was a need for such a restaurant. Prices are very reasonable, service is usually very good, and the freshness of their dishes is impressive. And their Paté was one of my Top Ten Restaurant Dishes of 2018.

Favorite Suburban Italian Restaurant: Il Casale, with locations in Belmont and Lexington, is killing it, especially with their wine dinners. Such professional service, exquisite food, and interesting drinks, from wine to cocktails. Their popularity, judged by how they can sell out an entire restaurant for a wine dinner when most other places are lucky to fill a table or two, is indicative of how well they are received in their community. And their Ragu Bianco was one of my Top Ten Restaurant Dishes of 2018.

Favorite South American Restaurant: In Watertown, the former owners the famed Cambridge restaurant Salts, have started a new restaurant, La Bodega By Saltswhich reflects owner Analia Verolo's homeland of Uruguay. Much of the menu consists of small plates, a great way to experience a number of dishes, which either have Uruguayan or Spanish roots. The food is fantastic, the wine list has plenty of Uruguayan wines, and their cocktails are stellar. Service is excellent and the restaurant itself is cool, especially where they have reused an old railroad car. And their Chivito was one of my Top Ten Restaurant Dishes of 2018.

Favorite Japanese Restaurant: Chef Chris Chung is rocking it in Inman Square in Cambridge at Momi Nonmi, a casual Japanese izakaya with some Hawaiian influence. The food is amazing, with ingredients that are fresh and high quality, including rarities not commonly found in the area. The cuisine is also inventive and innovative, with plenty of special dinner events. Chef Chung's culinary skills are top notch. They also have an impressive Sake, Shochu and cocktail program. Again, this is another small restaurant but one you should not miss. And their Teppanyaki Loco Moco was one of my Top Ten Restaurant Dishes of 2018.

Favorite Tasting Menu: Around since 2016, The Table at Season To Taste, located in North Cambridge, offers a four-course tasting menu each evening which changes every 4-6 weeks. You have two options for each course and the food is delicious and inventive, supported by an excellent wine program. It is a small and cozy restaurant, with an open kitchen, and you receive very professional service. And their Brown Rice & Sweet Potato Congee was one of my Top Ten Restaurant Dishes of 2018.

Favorite Brunch: At Ledger Restaurant & Bar, in Salem, they have an excellent Brunch Menu, from a 22-ounce Bloody Mary to their home-made Donuts, from Eggs Benedict to Banana Bread. Excellent service, a patio during the summer, and a menu of enticing dishes. Have a breakfast dish or a more lunch dish, such as a Fried Chicken Thigh Sandwich or a Breakfast Burger. And their Chicken & Waffles was one of my Top Ten Restaurant Dishes of 2018.

Favorite Fusion Cuisine: Though it was only available for several days around Cinco de Mayo, the "Grexico" menu, a combination of Mexican and Greek cuisine, at Committee was fusion cuisine at its best. The various dishes seamlessly blended ingredients from both cuisines, creating delicious and inventive dishes that thoroughly impressed me. Grecomole, Guajillo Hummus, Churros with Merenda, and much more. I hope they will hold this event again in 2019, and I could easily see this fusion cuisine centering a new restaurant. And their Lamb Barbacoa Tacos was one of my Top Ten Restaurant Dishes of 2018.

Favorite Chef's Return: Famed Chef Marisa Iocco returned to Spiga in Needham, transforming their Italian menu but maintaining some of his well-known specialties. You'll find dishes like Guazzetti, a unique Italian stew and Spiga might be the only local restaurant serving this item. Their Pizza is excellent and their Pasta dishes are killer. A cozy spot, it is open for lunch and dinner, and is worth the journey to Needham. And their Timballo was one of my Top Ten Restaurant Dishes of 2018.

Favorite Restaurant Dessert: After enjoying the savory options from Chef Marisa Iocco at Spiga, you can peruse their Dessert menu but I think your best option is her famed Bread Pudding, which I first enjoyed several years ago. I've even recommended people start their meal with the Bread Pudding so you ensure you aren't too full after dinner to enjoy it. Every spoonful is absolutely delicious, a hedonistic treat which I cannot recommend enough. Great texture to the bread, a nice blend of sweet and salty in the sauce, and nice hints of vanilla. We really need a bakery that specializes in Bread Pudding.

Favorite Hidden Restaurant City: Malden has plenty of interesting restaurants, especially Asian ones, but you wouldn't suspect that some fascinating dishes are "hidden" within rather ordinary appearing spots. From its storefront, you'd think Classic Pizza is your typical pizza and sub shop however they also have a small, but delicious menu of Indian dishes, including a killer Chicken Tikka Masala. Jay's Pizza also appears to be a normal pizza and sub joint, but they also sell Nepalese Momos, dumplings. In 2019, I'll be checking out other pizza joints in Malden to see if any others are hiding more unique and tasty dishes.

Favorite Food Book: Written  by Gabriella Opaz & Sonia Andersson Nolasco, with photography by Ryan Opaz, the compelling Porto: Stories From Portugal's Historic The Bolhão Market succeeds on many levels. It discusses the history of Portuguese cuisine while also telling intimate stories of the various vendors at the Bolhão Market. This is not some dry travelogue but rather a seductive lure intended to convert you into a culinary lover of northern Portugal. It will work well as a reference guide as well, something to turn to from time to time to better understand Portuguese cuisine. Highly recommended.

Favorite Culinary School: NECAT is a local culinary school which trains people from challenging backgrounds, from ex-convicts to recovering addicts, from the homeless to the chronically unemployed. NECAT fills an important need for culinary help while helping numerous people achieve a better life. It is such a worthy school, helping to transform lives, and it really touches my heart. It helps individuals while also helping the community, having recently celebrated its 5th Anniversary. I continue to try to raise awareness of NECAT so that its good work can continue and even expand.

Favorite Food Trade Event: Once again, I have selected the Seafood Expo North America (SENA) as my favorite. It is a massive trade event, a three day event showcasing purveyors of seafood and related vendors. You'll find tons of free seafood samples and learn plenty, from sustainability to cooking. The Seafood Show is an engaging event and you can read my latest articles here: Part 1Part 2Part 3The Seafood Show is compelling on many levels and I look forward to attending the next SENA in March 2019. Hope to see you there too.

Favorite Food History Article: This year, I'm especially proud of my article, "Water Doughnuts": Some Bagel History. I found numerous fascinating newspaper articles, dating back as far as 1930, about bagels. There were Recipes for making bagels at home, information about various flavored bagels, canned bagels, pizza bagels and more. More writers need to use old newspaper archives in their research as you never know what intriguing information you will find.

What were some of your favorite restaurants this year?

Tuesday, December 18, 2018

2018: Top Ten Restaurant Dishes

What were some of my favorite restaurant dishes of the past year?

Let me continue the lists of my best recommendations and favorites of 2018. I have already posted three Top Wine lists and my Favorite Wine-Related Items. Now I want to move onto food and showcase my Top Ten Restaurant Dishes of the past year.

This list includes ten dishes which I not only enjoyed immensely, but which I also found to be particularly compelling for various reasons. They might be especially delicious or something more unique, but all stand out for some particular reason, above the other dishes I have tasted this past year. These are the type of dishes I would order again and again, and which I would highly recommend. And I'll note that all of these restaurants are located in Massachusetts.

This is certainly not a complete list but it's more a sampling of memorable dishes I have experienced and/or posted about over the past year. It is also a purely subjective list, based on my own preferences, and makes no claims about being the "best" of anything. But all of the items here have earned my strong recommendations and I hope you will enjoy them as well. This list is not in any order of preference, so all receive equal accolades. For more of my favorite restaurant dishes, you can just search my blog posts for the past year.

Ragu Bianco at Il Casale (Belmont)
At a San Felice wine dinner, I was thoroughly impressed with their Fusilli fatti in casa con ragù "bianco" di carne e salamino di cinghiale (Handmade fusilli with "white" meat ragù and diced wild boar salami). This "ragu bianco" is traditional mostly in northern Italy, including Tuscany, and it is made with cream rather than tomatoes. This was simply a perfect dish, with homemade pasta cooked just right, plenty of savory and tender meat, a touch of earthiness, and a cream sauce that added plenty of flavor. The sauce was neither cloying or overly heavy, and I could easily have devoured a couple more plates. It is rare to see a ragu bianco at local restaurants, and that really needs to change if this dish is an example of what can be created. The Chef even provided me a copy of the Recipe, and we've made it at home successfully.

Paté at Infused Kreyol (Malden)
Infused Kreyol serves Haitian and Dominican dishes and one of their Small Bites is the Paté, a flaky pastry filled with shredded chicken, ground beef, cod fish or veggie. I've tasted three of the four, excluding the veggie, and loved them! They are made fresh each day, and the pastry is light, flaky and buttery, exactly what you want it to be. The ample fillings have intense and tasty flavors, spiced well. And at only $2.50 each, they are a great value too. The Paté are kept near the register to it is easy to stop by and pick up a few to enjoy at home.

Shrimp Marsala at Island Creek Oyster Bar (Burlington)
This compelling dish is made with Casarecce pasta, roasted mushrooms, and Marsala cream. As I love a good Marsala sauce, I knew I had to try this dish and it was absolutely delicious, a rich dish which was well balanced, the key to the dish's success. The creamy Marsala sauce wasn't overly sweet and the pasta, cooked perfectly, and was an excellent vessel for the sauce. The plump shrimp, coated with the creamy Marsala, were exquisite and the roasted mushrooms added some earthiness and umami to the dish. It was comfort food, a hearty portion of Sicilian-inspired seafood.

Lamb Barbacoa Tacos at Committee (Boston)
To honor Cinco de Mayo, Committee created a special "Grexico" menu, fusing Greek and Mexican cuisines. My favorite dish of the evening were the Lamb Barbacoa Tacos, made with braised lamb, tzatziki, and Fix beer (a Greek beer) guajillo, atop grape leaf-corn tortillas. Grape leaves were crumbled into the mixture of the corn tortillas, providing its different color and texture. They were unique and delicious, such a delightful fusion of cuisines. Who would have thought such a combination could be so tasty? The lamb was moist and tender, just exquisitely prepared, and the entirety of the taco worked so well. I could easily see a Greek-Mexican Taco joint doing very well in the Boston area.

Timballo at Spiga (Needham)
This hearty dish is made with crespelle (kind of an Italian crepe), meat ragú, and locally sourced dried mozzarella. What an amazing dish, such excellent comfort food! It reminded me in some respects to a lasagna, though the crespelle is softer. The ragú contained plenty of flavorful meat in a superb red sauce, and there was lots and lots of gooey cheese. It is an amply portioned dish so bring your appetite. So much flavor in a superb dish, perfect for a chilly winter evening.

Chivito at La Bodega By Salts (Watertown)
Chivito, which literally means "small goat," is a popular sandwich in Uruguay, and generally is a steak sandwich with a variety of toppings. The Chivito al Pan is sliced beef tenderloin, country ham, bacon, and a fried egg. It is quite a large sandwich, and a bit messy to eat, but it was also quite tasty, with plenty of tender meats. The soft roll enhanced the sandwich, which is large enough to make its own meal. An excellent comfort food and I understand its popularity in Uruguay.

Teppanyaki Loco Moco by Momi Nonmi (Cambridge)
Speaking of comfort food, the Teppanyaki Loco Moco hits the spot. It is composed of a bed of rice, topped by a grilled grass-fed beef patty and a fried egg. Tableside, a sizzling gravy is then added to the dish. Wow, this would be the perfect hangover food! The rich and savory gravy was a superb addition to this dish, enhancing the flavor of the beef and egg. The yolk also added its own richness to the dish, and eating the gravy soaked rice was pure pleasure. I certainly didn't need or want a bun for this burger. You probably wouldn't expect to find a burger here, but you need to check it out as I bet you'll place it on your list as one of the best burger dishes in the Boston+ area.

Jhol Momos at Jay's Pizza (Malden)
Who would have suspected that your typical pizza, subs, and ice cream shop would also carry Nepalese Momos? Their Jhol Momo dish consists of 10 hot Momos in a cold broth. The dichotomy between the hot and cold was initially a little jarring, as it isn't a usual combination you find in many cuisines. However, after the initial trepidation, I found that the combination actually worked well. The momos themselves possessed a fairly thin dumpling wrapper that had just the right amount of consistency, and they were filled with an ample portion of a tasty pork and spice mixture. On their own, the momos make an excellent dumpling. Now, the cold broth was intriguing, with a strong and complex curry taste, and it added to the flavor of the momos. The broth seemed to have lowered the temperature of the momos, transforming the hot dumplings into a dish that worked well on a hot summer day.

Chicken & Waffles at Ledger Restaurant (Salem)
The Brunch menu at Ledger is compelling, from their Cinnamon Rolls (pictured at the very top of this article) to their Home-made Donuts. Their Chicken & Waffles entree includes buttermilk fried chicken, a corn waffle, green chile butter, hot honey, and a side of pickles. The fried chicken was superb, with a great, crisp and clean coating, moist chicken with an added sweetness from the honey. The waffle too was very good, with only a mild corn flavor, enhanced by a subtle spice from the green chile butter. One of the best Chicken & Waffles dishes I've enjoyed in some time, and it is highly recommended.

Brown Rice & Sweet Potato Congee at The Table At Season To Taste (Cambridge)
The Brown Rice & Sweet Potato Congee was made with wild boar sausage, Matsutake mushrooms, pine nuts, and Szechuan chili. Congee is basically an Asian-type of rice porridge, and there are many variations in the various Asian countries. This dish impressed me with its depth of flavor, varied textures, and it was perfect for a chilly fall evening. There was plenty of moist, tender wild boar, chunks of sweet potatoes, and crunchy pine nuts, There was a mild spiciness to the dish which built over time, and it was also an ample-sized dish. Pure comfort food and highly recommended.

What were some of your favorite restaurant dishes of the past year?

Tuesday, August 21, 2018

Jay's Pizza in Malden: Jhol Momos!

What is it about the pizza joints in Malden? I previously wrote about Classic Pizza, a typical pizza & sub restaurant but which also has a small, delicious and intriguing menu of Indian cuisine. You would never know from the outside that you would find inside tasty Chicken Tikka Masala or Paneer Pakora. Now, I've stumbled on another typical pizza and sub joint, Jay's Pizza & Ice Cream, which also is hiding a fascinating speciality.

Jay's is a tiny spot, with only a handful of tables and seats, but has a lengthy menu of the usual suspects, from pizza to subs, chicken fingers to calzones. However, you'll also note a small sign advertising Jhol Momos, a Nepalese dish. Who would ever have suspected this pizza joint would sell Nepalese dumplings? Maybe this is due to the recent change in ownership.

Momos are indigenous to South Asia, especially Tibet, Nepal, parts of India, and Bhutan, though the word itself seems to have Chinese origin, and simply means "steamed bun." They can be filled with a variety of ingredients, from yak to pork, chicken to vegetarian. Now, you can find momos in at least a few restaurants in the Boston area but Jay's offers a type of momo which is much less commonly found in the local area.

In Nepal, especially its capital Kathmandu, jhol momo are an extremely popular street food. "Jhol" roughly translates as "liquid" or a "liquid-like consistency," and the dish itself are momos in a cold broth. The broth may include ingredients such as sesame, garlic, tomato, onion, lemons and achar (an Indian condiment of pickled fruits and vegetables with spices). It may taste hot, spicy, sour and/or tangy, dependent on the specific ingredients and their ratios.

At Jay's, the Jhol Momo dish costs about $8-$9 and you receive 10 hot Momos in a cold broth. The dichotomy between the hot and cold was initially a little jarring, as it isn't a usual combination you find in many cuisines. You might get a room temperature sauce for other dumplings, but it is almost never a cold sauce. And even then, you can add as much or as little of the sauce you desire. In this case, the momos are sitting in the cold broth. However, after the initial trepidation, I found that the combination actually worked well.

The momos themselves possessed a fairly thin dumpling wrapper that had just the right amount of consistency, and they were filled with an ample portion of a tasty pork and spice mixture. You can also opt for chicken or vegetation momos. On their own, the momos make an excellent dumpling. Now, the cold broth was intriguing, with a strong and complex curry taste, and it added to the flavor of the momos. The broth seemed to have lowered the temperature of the momos, transforming the hot dumplings into a dish that worked well on a hot summer day. Highly recommended.

So what other Malden pizza joints are concealing special culinary treasures?

Tuesday, August 14, 2018

Sousaku Bistro in Malden: First Impressions

Malden is home to numerous interesting & tasty restaurants, including a significant number of ethnic spots, from Vietnamese to Haitian. It would take you plenty of time to explore all of them, meaning you might miss out on some of the best places. For example, though Sousaku Bistro, a Japanese restaurant, has been open since the end of 2015, it was only until recently that I dined there a couple times for lunch.

Located at 166 Eastern Avenue, and set up a little from the road, it can be easy to drive by and miss this spot. And it isn't in an area that seems to get much foot traffic. Around the corner, on Ferry Street, you''ll find several other restaurants and most of the foot traffic is there. As such, Sousaku seems to fly under the radar and you need to intentionally seek it out. It is open six days a week, closed only on Tuesdays.

Sousaku has a quite large menu of Japanese cuisine, from Sushi to Yakitori, Kushikatsu to Rice Bowls, and so much more. Many of these are traditional dishes, but there are also plenty of more innovative dishes where the chef has created his own unique takes. Prices are generally reasonable considering the quality and quantity of the dishes. They have a fully stocked bar, including Sake (with several good options) and Japanese Whiskey.

The Sushi Lunch ($12) includes 5 pieces of Nigiri Sushi and a Tuna Roll, accompanied with Miso Soup and Salad. The miso and salad were good, with a light and tasty dressing atop the salad.

The Sushi was good-sized, tasted fresh and was very satisfying. Two pieces of Maguro are usually $7.50, meaning their Sushi is a bit more expensive than many other spots, but still less expensive than some high-end places. And based on the size and quality, the price is fair. This lunch special is a very good deal.

The Sweet Potato Tempura (3 pieces for $2.95) was exquisite, just perfect crispy tempura batter covering the tender sweet potato. I often judge a Japanese restaurant by the quality of their tempura and in this regard, Sousaku is a big winner. I would probably order some tempura every time I dined here.


The Tatsuta-Age ($6) is deep fried marinated fried chicken in a light batter, and it was tender and moist with a nice taste to the flavor, with hints of possibly ginger. This has a much lighter batter than "chicken fingers" and it is more about the chicken than the batter.

The Boky Bun ($6) is a roasted pork bun, served with lettuce, fried scallion & their special barbecue sauce. However, the menu doesn't mention there is also mayo on the bun, which was a fail for me. Otherwise, it was a delicious sandwich, with tender pork, a soft bun, and the fried scallions added a nice little crunch.

The Chashu Pork Noodle Soup ($9.25) is made with slices of roasted pork, shiitake mushroom, fried onion, scallion, corn, half-boiled egg, sesame, and wakame. You then have the choice of a Curry Broth or Tonkotsu Broth. You also have the option of Soba, Ramen or Udon noodles. I opted for the Tonkotsu with Ramen, and it was okay but nothing special. Presentation was lacking and it lacked the depth of flavor you find in better Ramen soups.

The Yakitori menu has 12 options ($3-$10 per skewer), and you order by the individual skewer, though there is a Combo plate available.  I tried the Matsusaka Pork, Oyster Mushroom Wrapped in Bacon, Scallop, and Chicken. I liked the barbecue sauce on each grilled skewer, with the nuttiness of the sesame seeds, and the meats and seafood were cooked well, being moist, tender and flavorful. A nice variety of flavor and textures, and I would like to try more of the skewers.

The Dessert Menu has 4 choices, such as Fried Ice Cream and Mochi, and I enjoyed the Fried Banana ($5). A nice, crispy light batter covered the sweet, slightly mushy banana pieces.

Sousaku is worthy checking out, though maybe their menu is too large and they might be better off concentrating on less. Service was excellent on both of my visits. I will be returning there to check out more of their offerings and would like to hear from anyone else who has dined there.

Friday, June 29, 2018

Infused Kreyol: Delicious Haitian & Dominican Cuisine in Malden

I have little familiarity with Haitian cuisine so was intrigued when I noticed a Haitian restaurant, Infused Kreyol, would soon open in Malden. The spot once belonged, for quite a long time, to the Sun Guang Bakery, a great Chinese bakery, and was later taken over, for a much shorter time, by Sweet Kingdom, an Asian dessert spot. Infused Kreyol opened last month and I wanted to provide my initial impressions after having dined there three times for lunch. As the restaurant has only recently opened, this isn't a formal review, giving them time to work out the final kinks.

Infused Kreyol was founded by Dominique and Daniella Zephyr-Gutierrez, twins who grew up in Malden. Their father was Haitian and their mother was Haitian-Dominican, so though the restaurant's cuisine is primarily Haitian, there are also nods to Dominican and other Caribbean cuisines. The restaurant seats about 40 people and there is a very casual ambiance, enhanced by the artwork on the walls. In fact, as you enter the restaurant, you'll walk down their "Art Walk", checking out some of the artwork.

Behind the counter, there is more artwork, including a painting of their mother, and a painting of both twins. There is also a display of some of the wines they serve. And of interest, there is a heated glass case which stores freshly-made Paté, which you can buy to go (and which I highly recommend you do). I'll talk more about those Paté later in this post.

A painting on another wall, which is a significant symbol for the restaurant, depicts the Le Marron Inconnu de Saint-Domingue, "The Unknown Slave," a bronze statue of a runaway slave that commemorates the abolishment of slavery. The statue, created by Haitian sculptor Albert Mangonès  in 1967, is displayed in Port-au-Prince, Haiti. The painting also adorns the cover of the restaurant's menus.

The Menu has plenty of choices and is broken down into Small Bites (6 choices, $2.50-$11), Sandwiches/Sliders (2 choices, $8-$10), Lunch Bowls ($10), Infused Plates (10 choices, $15-$18) Salads (2 choices, $7), Sides (7 choices, $3-$7), and Dessert (4 choices, $4-$6). The Infused Plates come with your choice of Rice (White rice with SOS Pwa, Black rice, or Spanish rice) and Plantains (sweet or green). Nearly every dish, except the salads and a veggie Paté, has meat or seafood so vegetarians don't have many choices, though I suspect the restaurant might try to cater to your desires.

Above, you'll see Plantain Chips, which I was offered on two of my three visits. They are a complimentary snack provided once you order your food. They are thin, crunchy, and tasty though might benefit from a bit of salt.

One of the Small Bites is the Paté ($2.50), a flaky pastry filled with shredded chicken, ground beef, cod fish or veggie. I tasted three of the four, excluding the veggie, and loved them! They are made fresh each day, and on two of my visits, the cod fish paté weren't available as they hadn't been made yet. The pastry is light, flaky and buttery, exactly what you want it to be, and the fillings have intense and tasty flavors, spiced well. And at this price, they are an excellent value. If nothing else, you should stop by Infused Kreyol and pick up a bunch of these paté to enjoy at home.

The Cod Fish Pate.


Another Small Bite was the Bacon Wrapped Sweet Plantains ($10), which sounds great and tastes as you imagined. The large pieces of fried plantains had a nice caramelized exterior, and were soft and almost mushy inside, but with a sufficient firmness. The salty bacon enhanced the sweetness of the plantains. An excellent appetizer and nearly addictive.


The Jerk Beef Sliders ($10), topped with a pineapple-mango chutney, are noted as Spicy though you can order just a regular burger instead. I opted for the Jerk and they were delicious, spicy without being overly hot. Each burger was relatively large and thick for a slider, and they were juicy and meaty, topped by melted cheese. The chutney added some sweetness to balance the jerk spices, as well as a bit of texture. The soft, fresh roll worked well for the burger too. Another winner of a dish.

For a Side, I wanted to try their Corn Bread, but it wasn't available on any of my visits.

For an Infused Plate, I chose the Griot ($15), pork shoulder marinated and fried in savory sauce with peppers and onions. I chose Black Rice and Sweet Plantains to accompany the griot.

The pieces of pork shoulder were compelling, with a great crunchy, fried coating and moist, flavorful pork inside. Even the few fatty pieces were delicious, being silky smooth inside the crunchy coating. An absolutely delicious dish and you can order the Griot as a Small Bite as well, without the rice and plantains.

The Fried Sweet Plantains were delicious, just as tasty as the ones that come wrapped in bacon.

The Black Rice had an interesting flavor, with peas and spices.

The Kreyol Pasta ($18), an ample portion, is topped by a spicy and rich cream sauce and comes with either Chicken & Shrimp or Andouille Sausage and Shrimp. I opted for the sausage and shrimp. Though the pasta was cooked well, and the cream sauce was tasty, with a nice blend of spices, the sausage was a bit tough and there were only two shrimp.

The Lunch Bowl ($10) comes with your choice of pulled pork, stewed beef, or shredded chicken, and rice, plantains, peppers and onions. I chose the pulled pork with Spanish rice, a good sized dish for the price. The pulled pork was moist, tender and had a nice depth of flavor. If you want a value lunch choice, this is a great option.

For Dessert, I wanted to get the Haitian Beyens, banana fritters, but they are only made for dinner. I decided to try Gigi's Cream Corn Souffle ($6), which is infused with Haitian cremas. The three souffles reminded me of a corn pudding we often make for the holidays. It was like a bread pudding texture, with sweet corn and crema, and some deeper flavors as well. Savory and sweet, a very good option.

Overall, I was impressed with the cuisine at Infused Kreyol. There is a compelling depth of flavor to most of their dishes, and I like the freshness of each dish. As the dishes are home-made, you might have to wait a little bit longer for your food to arrive than some fast casual spot, but it is well worth the wait. Service was excellent on two of my visits, but on one of my visits, service was rather slow, and the restaurant wasn't busy. Prices are reasonable for what you get, and some of the dishes are even excellent values, like the Paté. Infused Kreyol is a welcome addition to the area and I look forward to checking out more of their menu. I highly recommend you visit Infused Kreyol too.

Friday, April 13, 2018

A "Secret" Restaurant Within Classic Pizza

From the outside, Classic Pizza, on Ferry Street in Malden, looks like a typical pizza joint, nothing to differentiate it from many similar places. Like me, you might drive by it dozens of times without paying any attention to it. However, a couple friends of mine, Kathryn and Matt, recently recommended this spot to me, telling me something that makes this place more unique. They also serve Indian cuisine!

Classic Pizza serves much of the usual fare, pizza and subs, pasta and seafood, chicken fingers to wraps. However, they also have a small menu of Indian cuisine, much of it vegetarian. The new owners of the restaurant wanted to do something to make their place different and they chose to add some Indian specialties. The items are made fresh so they need to keep the menu relatively small, unlike some restaurants with huge menus that need to use frozen sauces and such. You'll find Paneer Pakora, Aloo Tikki, Chanaa Masala, Vegetable Biryani, Naan, and more. Kathryn and Matt raved about the taste of this Indian cuisine so I had to visit the restaurant myself, to sample the food.

Yesterday, as I had other business in Malden, I decided to stop by Classic Pizza to grab some lunch.

I had to start with a slice of pizza, and they give you quite a large slice, about the size of two slices in many other pizza joints. It has a nice thin crust and a good taste. If you just want a big slice of pizza, this is a good option. It's the Indian cuisine though which is the standout.

I opted for the Chicken Tikka Masala ($12.95), which is accompanied by rice and a little salad. As I love the various Indian breads, I also ordered the Garlic Naan ($2.50). They asked what spice level I wanted for the Chicken and I chose the Medium spice. This dish is prepared fresh so it takes a short time to be readied, and is well worth the short wait.

The Garlic Naan, served hot, was delicious, with a nice soft texture, and plenty of garlic. Perfect for dipping into the sauce, and I ordered a second garlic naan because it was so tasty.

A tall tower of rice, cooked perfectly, and an excellent bed for the chicken and sauce.

The Chicken Tikka Masala possessed an excellent depth of flavor, complex and absolutely delicious. Savory and spicy, it brought a delightful, but not overpowering, burn to my mouth. The chicken pieces were tender and there were plenty of them within the sauce. I didn't finish all of the sauce, but got it to go so I can use it later at home. A high quality dish, it earns my strong recommendation.

I'll certainly be returning to Classic Pizza soon, to try more of the Indian cuisine. This restaurant deserves more attention, and maybe they should highlight their Indian cuisine on the front of the restaurant, to motivate more people to stop by. For now, it remains more of a secret, though I'm letting the cat out of the bag.