2018: Favorite Spirits, Sake, Cocktails & Drink-Related Items

What were some of my favorite spirits and drink-related items of the past year?

Let me finish out the lists of my best recommendations and favorites of 2018. I've already posted my Top Wine lists, Favorite Wine-Related Items, Top Ten Restaurant Dishes, Favorite Restaurants & Food-Related Items and my Top 50 Restaurants. This post will now concentrate on some of my Favorite Spirits, Sake, Cocktails & Drink-Related Items. This is certainly not a complete list but it is more a sampling of compelling and memorable matters I have experienced and posted about over the past year.

This is also a purely subjective list, based on my own preferences, and makes no claims about being the "best" of anything. But all of the items here have earned my strong recommendations and I hope you will enjoy them as well. For more spirits, Sake, cocktails and drink-related items, you can just search my blog posts for the past year.

Favorite Achievement in Spirits Writing: In The Rise Of Tequila In The 18th & 19th Centuries, I provided some historical background of how some Mezcal in Mexico eventually became known as Tequila. Much of the history deals with the 19th century, and includes quotes from numerous newspapers of that time period. There are plenty of intriguing tidbits about Tequila, from its pricing to how it was viewed in the U.S. And some of this information isn't found in any of the popular books about tequila.

Most Unusual Spirits Article: Alcohol is made from a wide variety of plants, from grape vines to grains, and various spices and herbs may be used in its creation as well. However, some people have also added animal parts to their alcohols, such as Mexico's famed Pechuga Mezcal. In my article, Animal Alcohol: Lamb Wine, Pigeon Blood Wine, Spirit of Goat & More, I discuss some of the more unique alcohols that used animals, mostly produced in Asia. I'm not sure how popular those spirits would be in the U.S. but I would be interested in at least sampling them.

Favorite Blended Scotch Whisky: Funded by a Kickstarter, the Sia Blended Scotch Whiskey has an intriguing nose, with touches of vanilla, spice, caramel and a tiny waft of smoke. On the palate, it is silky smooth, lacking the burn you find in some other Scotches. You'll find a melange of pleasing flavors, including caramel and vanilla, a strong spicy backbone, and more subtle hints of citrus, smoke, and toffee. It possesses a touch of sweetness and has a lengthy, satisfying finish. It accomplishes its goal of being approachable and accessible. And 1% of sales are donated to charities that help women start and grow their businesses.

Favorite U.S. Single Malt Whiskey: Created in Oregon, the Rogue Spirits Oregon Single Malt Whiskey is made from only three ingredients: Rogue Farms Risk™ Malt, Free-Range Coastal Water & Pacman Yeast, and it was aged for about five years in American oak. This light-colored whiskey possesses an alluring aroma, a complex blend of intriguing scents, which will make you simply sit and sniff your glass for a time, enjoying the aroma alone. On the palate, the complexity remains, with a fascinating melange of flavors, caramel to vanilla, baking spice to stone fruit, citrus to chocolate. Silky smooth, well-balanced and with a lengthy & satisfying finish. Absolutely delicious and it will please any whiskey lover.

Favorite Gin: Also from the Rogue Ale & Spits in Oregon, the Rogue Spirits Spruce Gin is the type of gin I prefer, presenting a delicious, intriguing and balanced mix of botanicals. The ingredient lists includes Spruce, Juniper Berries, Ginger, Fresh Cucumber, Orris Root, Orange Peel, Lemon Peel, Tangerine, Grains of Paradise, Angelica Root, Coriander & Free Range Coastal Water. On the nose, there is an intense smell of juniper, but beneath the dominant juniper are more subtle notes of the other botanicals, such as the spruce and citrus. On the palate, the botanicals balance out into a delicious and interesting combination, from fresh cucumber to herbal spruce, bright citrus and hints of spice. This could easily be drank on its own, with a little tonic, or make for an excellent component in a cocktail.

Favorite Brandy: I love Georgian wine, so it was inevitable that I would expand my samplings to include Georgian Chacha, a pomace brandy. The Askaneli Brothers Premium Chacha is matured in oak barrels for at least 12 months, and is filtered, which accounts for its colorless nature. With a 45% ABV, this chacha has an intriguing floral aroma and was surprising smooth and mild on the palate, with only a minor alcoholic bite. It possessed pleasant and more subtle flavors of hazelnut and citrus with floral accents. It was elegant, with a fairly long finish, and is definitely a very good value at its price. I definitely need to seek out more Chacha.

Favorite Spirits Book: John P. McEvoy published the second edition of his fascinating and informative guide to Mezcal, "Holy Smoke! It’s Mezcal!" The first edition was a comprehensive guide that I recommended often, and the second edition is even better. I should disclose as well that I'm mentioned in this new edition for my research into the origins of Pechuga Mezcal. The book is written in a fun and easy style, making it accessible for people of any knowledge level, and you'll enjoy some of the humorous bits scattered through the book. If you want to learn about Mezcal, this book will give you plenty of knowledge, recommendations and more.

Favorite Sherry Bar: Taberna de Haro wins this category hands-down, once again, as there is no other local restaurant which comes close. With over 60 Sherries, including some rarer bottlings, Chef/Owner Deborah Hansen has compiled an amazing Sherry list, offering a good number by the glass. The Sherries pair very well with her Spanish cuisine and I could easily sit at the bar all night sampling different Sherries, from a bone dry Fino to a sublime aged Palo Cortado. If you are ever in the area, you must stop here and try some Sherry.

Favorite Restaurant Cocktail: While sitting at the bar at La Bodega By Salts in Watertown, I perused their cocktail list and one item leaped out at me, and I knew I needed to try it. The Mangalitsa Old Fashioned is made with Amarena Wild Cherries, Angostura, and Mangalitsa Jamon Infused Bourbon. The Mangalitsa is a Hungarian heritage breed of pig, with a wooly coat, and its flesh is wonderfully delicious. The cocktail was excellent, very savory with a briny element to it, enhanced by hints of vanilla and cherry.

Runner-Up Favorite Restaurant Cocktails: Committee, the Greek restaurant in the Seaport, has a very good cocktail program, and two of their cocktails especially impressed me. The first is the Piscoteca, made with Pisco Barsol Verde, house-made tropical fassionola syrup, and lime. It was more dry, with intriguing tropical fruit flavors and a delightful vein of the Pisco. Very refreshing, it would also be a nice summer cocktail. Second is the Holy Smokes , made with Del Magüey Vida mezcal, Lillet Blanc, lemon, cinnamon, and tepache. The smoky agave spirit is prominent, enhanced by the spice and citrus, making it complex, refreshing and delicious. Another excellent choice for a summer cocktail.

Favorite Brunch Cocktail: At a killer brunch at Ledger in Salem, I enjoyed their 22 oz Bloody Mary, which is garnished with celery, an olive, a gherkin, and a hot pepper. It was a well made drink, with a pleasant spiciness and some other intriguing spices that were hard to identify, but which helped to make this cocktail different from many other Bloody Marys. And at only $14, it is a very good deal as well.

Favorite Beer: I dislike most beer, as I am very sensitive to the bitterness of hops and that taste turns me off. Every once in a while though, I find a beer that appeals to me. This year, I was impressed with the Backacre Beermaker Sour Golden Ale, produced by a brewery in Vermont. My friend Marc Hurwitz, the author of Boston's Hidden Restaurants, brought me a bottle of this beer, thinking that I might enjoy it, and he was certainly correct. This beer is inspired by the Gueuze, a Belgian lambic. With a nice golden color, I was impressed with its complex blend of flavors, with plenty of tartness, bright citrus notes, spice notes, and earthy hints. It certainly reminded me of certain, more natural ciders, and if blind tasted tested, many might not even realize this was a beer. Highly recommended!

Favorite Cider Paired Dinner: It is rare to find restaurants offering multi-course dinners paired with hard ciders. This year, Post 390 hosted a superb Farm to Post With Kimball Fruit Farm, with several heritage production, single-harvest ciders. The food was delicious, from Roast Pigeon to Heritage Porchetta, and the cider pairings worked so well. In addition, the ciders were intriguing, tasty, and tended to be more dry. Everyone near me at the dinner really enjoyed the food and ciders, and overall, it was an excellent experience. We need more cider-paired dinners!

Favorite Cider: From the Farm to Post With Kimball Fruit Farm, my favorite cider of the year was the Eden Specialty Ciders Ezekiel, a single varietal cider made from Kingston Black apples of the Windfall Orchard. This cider was also aged about about 12 months in an oak barrel. With an 8% ABV, this cider possessed an alluring aroma and on the palate it was a stunner. With a full body, it was elegant and crisp, complex and subtle, intriguing and delicious. It was dry, well-balanced and had a lengthy, satisfying finish, pairing very well with the porchetta. Frankly, it was one of the best ciders I've tasted in quite some time.

Favorite Daiginjo Sake: The Born Tokusen Junmai Daiginjo is produced from the highest quality Yamada Nishiki rice, polished down to 38%. What helps to make this Sake more unique is that it was aged for at least two years at 32 degrees Fahrenheit, the freezing point of water.  The aroma of this Sake is alluring and seductive, with rich fruit smells, floral accents and hints of spice. And on the palate, the complexity of its taste thoroughly impresses. There is a rich mouthfeel, an intense depth of flavor including tastes of citrus, melon, grapefruit, pear, vanilla, and licorice. It is silky smooth and elegant, with a lengthy, pleasing finish. Every sip brings something new to my mouth and made me crave the next sip. Simply superb.

Favorite Restaurant For Sake: I've previously mentioned that Momi Nonmi is my Favorite Japanese Restaurant of the year, and part of the reasons for that is due to their Sake program. Their Sake sommelier, Stephen Connolly, has curated an intriguing and delicious list of Sake, and his knowledge and passion are quite evident as he helps diners with Sake pairings. It is a restaurant where Sake plays a dominant role, and isn't just an after thought. Go here for delicious food and Sake,  and gain a bit of a Sake education.

What were some of your favorite spirits, cocktails, Sake, and drink-related items this year?

2018: Top Wines Over $50 (Plus My Wine of The Year)

What were some of my favorite wines of the past year?

Welcome to my third, and last, Top Wines List. I've already posted my Top Ten Wines Under $15 and Top Ten Wines Over $15 (But Under $50). It is now time for my Top Wines Over $50. This isn't a Top Ten list as there aren't always sufficient wines at this price point that I've tasted and deemed worthy for inclusion. Like the prior lists, this list includes wines that not only I enjoyed, but which I also found to be particularly compelling for various reasons. They might be especially delicious, something more unique or just excellent values for the price. They all stand out, for some particular reason, above the other wines at this price point that I have tasted this past year.

This is a purely subjective list, based on my own preferences, and makes no claims about being the "best" wines out there. It is primarily the wines which spoke to me the loudest, even when they were subtle wines. These are all wines that I highly recommend and which I believe many other wine lovers will also enjoy.

The wines are not listed in any particular order and each choice is linked to my more detailed prior review. All of these value wines are worth your consideration but please also note that the prices are approximations and the actual price may vary in your area. In addition, some of the wines might not be available in your local area, though you might be able to order them from the winery or an online store, dependent on your state's shipping laws.

I'm also going to note that this is the first year that I am announcing an overall Wine Of The Year! One wine simply stood out so much this year that I saw the need for such a declaration. And I will begin my list with that very wine...

1) Bodegas Yuste Conde de Aldama Amontillado Sherry ($210)
It was a very easy decision to select this phenomenal and unique Sherry as my Wine Of The Year. First, it may be the oldest wine I've ever tasted. This Sherry is an average of 130-150 years old, and its solera was begin sometime from 1740-1750, before the U.S. was even a country. Second, you need to read my detailed review for more details about its history and production, as well as my full tasting notes. For me, this wine may be as close to perfect as any wine will ever be. Third, it certainly helped that I shared this bottle with some very close friends at a fantastic birthday celebration. Fourth, even at this price point, I think the wine is a bargain and if I ever see it again on a wine store shelf, I'll buy it without question. How often can you say that about a $200 wine? I cannot recommend this wine highly enough.

2) 2014 San Felice Il Grigio Chianti Classico Gran Selezione ($50.99)
This Italian wine is a blend of 80% Sangiovese, with the rest a blend of indigenous grapes including Abrusco, Pugnitello, Malvasia Nera, Ciliegiolo and Mazzese. This is a WOW wine, impressive and compelling. The aromas seduce your nose, giving evidence of the quality that you'll find within the wine. On the palate, it is silky smooth, with plenty of complexity, including ripe plum, black cherry, mild spice notes, hints of earthiness, and wisps of additional flavors that seem to flit in and out. Well-balanced, fine acidity, and a lingering, satisfying finish. It is the epitome of elegance, a wine to slowly savor over the course of an evening, relishing each sip, finding new flavors within each taste.

3) Graham's 20 Year Old Tawny Port ($60-$65).
Port doesn't get enough attention, and when it does, Vintage Port seems to get the spotlight. However, there are plenty of other excellent Port types available, such as this one. This Port wine is actually about 24 years old, made from high quality wines, and is complex and intriguing, more dry than sweet, well-balanced and delicious. Caramel and salted nuts, dried fruit, a wisp of citrus and black cherry, hints of spice and good acidity. A Port to slowly savor over the course of an evening, chatting with good friends, paired with blue cheese or creme brulee. Each sip will bring something new to your palate, and you could get lost within your glass.

4) 2015 Bodegas Garzón Balasto ($120)
From Uruguay, the 2015 vintage was the first release of this wine, a blend of the best grapes of the vineyard, including 45% Tannat, 25% Cabernet France, 20% Petit Verdot, and 10% Marselan. The grapes were fermented in concrete tanks and then the wine spent about 20 months in untoasted, large French oak casks. This is a powerful, muscular wine with concentrated red and black fruit flavors, yet it still possesses a beautiful elegance. The tannins are restrained, helping to rein in its power. There are also subtle spice notes, nice acidity, a hint of earthiness and it possesses a lingering and pleasant finish. This is a wine built for aging, though it is still impressive now.

5) 2014 Kay Brothers Amery Vineyard Block 6 Shiraz ($119.99)
An Australian wine made from 100% Shiraz from a vineyard that was planted in 1892. 122 year old vines! This wine, with a 14.5% ABV, aged for at least 22 months in 1/3 new, 1/3 second, and 1/3 third use French and American oak puncheons. It possesses a rich, crimson color and an alluring nose of spice and black fruit. On the palate, the wine is elegant and silky smooth, with a complex melange of concentrated flavors of plum, black cherry and raspberry, with a strong spicy backbone, well integrated tannins, and pleasing acidity. It is well balanced with a long, lingering finish that completely satisfies. This is nowhere close to a jammy, fruit bomb but rather the type of high quality wine that seduces your senses.

6) 2013 Bedrock Wine Co. Griffin's Lair Syrah, Sonoma Coast ($50-$60)
A blend of 88% Syrah and 12% Viognier, this California wine possesses a dark, almost purplish colored wine, emitted an alluring nose of black fruits and spice, with subtle, almost fleeting aromas of other elements, such as herbal and floral notes. You can detect the complexity of this wine from the start, and that complexity is further elaborated on the palate. Full bodied and intense, it is lush and seductive, possessed of an intricate melange of flavors, including plum, black cherry, vanilla, dark spice, and an underlying earthiness. Such a long and lingering finish, each sip providing pleasure for minutes at the least. The tannins are well integrated, the silky feel of the wine caressing your palate. A hedonistic and complex wine that will please almost any wine lover.

This year, six countries and regions have a single spot on the list, including Spain, Italy, Portugal, Uruguay, Australia, and California. Of these six wines, they also consist of 2 Fortified Wines and 4 Red Wines. The Uruguayan wine may be the most surprising wine on the list as most people wouldn't expect such an amazing, high-end wine from this up and coming wine country. For myself, the biggest surprise may be the Australian wine, as I've tasted little from this country in several years after having had too many disappointing wines. It's time for me to sample more Australian wines.

Not all expensive wines are worth their high price but these wines well worth the splurge. These are the type of wines that words often cannot do justice. These are wines to experience and savor, not to dissect and analyze. These wines should be shared with others, with family and friends, to share the experience. With the holidays near, why not splurge and buy one of these wines.

If you have some of your own recommendations for unique and compelling wines over $50, please add them to the comments.

2018: Top Ten Wines Over $15 (But Under $50)

What were some of my favorite wines of the past year?

Welcome to my second Top Ten Wine List. Yesterday, I posted my Top Ten Wines Under $15, which I hope you enjoyed and found useful. Now it is time for my Top Ten Wines Over $15, though these wines also cost less than $50.

Like the prior list, this list includes wines that not only I enjoyed, but which I also found to be particularly compelling for various reasons. They might be especially delicious, something more unique or just excellent values for the price. They all stood out, for some particular reason, above the other wines at this price point that I have tasted this past year.

This is a purely subjective list, based on my own preferences, and makes no claims about being the "best" wines out there. It is primarily the wines which spoke to me the loudest, even when they were subtle wines. These are all wines that I highly recommend and which I believe many other wine lovers will also enjoy.

The wines are not listed in any particular order and each choice is linked to my more detailed prior review. All of these wines are worth your consideration but please also note that the prices are approximations and the actual price may vary in your area. In addition, some of the wines might not be available in your local region, though you might be able to order them from the winery or an online store, dependent on your state's shipping laws.

1) 2014 Domaine Albert Mann Extra Brut Crémant d'Alsace ($24)
This Crémant d'Alsace is a blend of Auxerrois, Pinot Blanc and Pinot Noir. With a fine golden color and a myriad of tiny bubbles, it possesses an alluring aroma, with elements of fresh fruit. On the palate, the Crémant is fresh, crisp and dry, with delicious flavors of green apple, pear and hints of lemon. Though it is fruit driven, there is complexity in the palate as well, with a touch of minerality and hints of spice. There is a light, elegant creaminess to this wine with a lengthy, pleasing finish, ending with more fruit notes. At this price point, it is also an excellent value.

2) 2014 Domaines Schlumberger "Les Princes Abbés" Pinot Noir ($25) Pinot Noir from Alsace is rare and that needs to change. This wine is produced from 100% Pinot Noir, from vines of an average age of 19 years. The wine is fermented in stainless steel and then aged on the lees for about 8 months in old wooden foudres. This is a wine of silky elegance, of bright, fresh red fruit flavors, a hint of spice, and a wisp of earthiness. Excellent acidity, some floral accents, soft tannins, and a lengthy, pleasing finish. Such a well balanced and delicious wine, its elegance is so compelling and its complex melange of flavors pleases me immensely.

3) 2016 Georges Duboeuf Domaine les Chenevieres, Macon-Villages ($21.99)
This French wine is made from 100% Chardonnay, with vines that are over 20 years old, this wine has a 12.5% ABV and sees only stainless steel. It has an interesting and fresh taste, lots of crispness with flavors of green apple and citrus, with a backbone of minerality, and a lingering finish. This wine would go very well with goat cheese, as well as many types of seafood.

4) 2016 Georges Duboeuf Jean Ernest Descombes, Morgon ($21.99)
Another French wine, fro the Morgon Cru, this wine is made from 100% Gamay (vines from 50-100 years old), with a 13% ABV. It was vinified and aged in cement tanks. It possesses a captivating aroma, one that quickly lures you into the bottle. The red and black fruit flavors are intense, with crisp acidity, spice notes, and an earthy undertone. It is elegant and complex, intriguing and delicious.  Many of my favorite Beaujolais wines come from the Morgon Cru and this is an excellent example of what that Cru has to offer.

5) 2015 Darting Winery Pinot Meunier ($21.99)
This German wine is made from 100% Pinot Meunier, from the Pfalz region, and has a 13.5% ABV. It is rare to find single varietal Pinot Meunier. This wine has a light red color, with a touch of sediment, and a mild, pleasing aroma of red fruit and spice. It is a light-bodied wine, subtle and elegant in its presentation, with delicious flavors of cherry and cranberry, a mild spicy backbone and a hint of earthiness. Nice acidity, a lingering finish, and interesting. Overall, it is delicious and paired perfectly with a dinner of lamb lollipops.

6) Gonzalez Byass La Copa Vermouth ($25)
Vermouth is actually a wine, an aromatized wine, and many people seem to forget that fact, which is why you rarely see Vermouth on Top Ten Wine lists. They are worthy though of more recognition. The La Copa Vermouth is a blend of 75% Oloroso Sherry and 25% Pedro Ximinez Sherry. It is rare to find any Vermouth made from Sherry. Some of the botanicals that are used in this Vermouth include wormwood, angelica, savory, clove, orange peel, nutmeg, quinine, and cinnamon. On the nose, its complexity is first experienced, a wonderful melange of spices, salted nuts, and citrus notes. On the palate, you will be intrigued by its complexity, balance and elegance. There is a superb blend of spices and herbs, with nuts, caramel, a touch of plum, candied orange and more. The Sherry influence is prominent and well integrated. There is balanced sweetness with hints of bitterness, exactly what you want from a fine vermouth. It's smooth with a lengthy, satisfying finish and is wonderful on its own, though it also works well in a Manhattan.

7) 2015 Post Scriptum de Chryseia ($20-$25)
This Portuguese wine is impressive, a blend of 64% Touriga Franca, 28% Touriga Nacional and 8% Tinta Roriz, spending about 12 months in French oak. It has bright red fruit flavors, nice acidity, a spicy backbone and an elegant nature. Definitely very approachable, with good complexity, a lengthy finish and a wine that is very food friendly. Simply delicious.

8) 2015 Bodegas Garzón Cabernet France Reserve ($27)
Uruguay is producing some interesting and delicious wines, and this wine, made from Cabernet France, is an impressive example of their potential. With a rich purple color, the wine has alluring aromas, lots of ripe fruit and hints of spice. On the palate, there are delicious black and blue fruit flavors, enhanced by mild spice notes and a hint of herbal notes. There isn't a prominent flavor of green peppers, which delights me. The tannins are well integrated, the finish lingers, and there is a touch of mint on the finish too. This would be a great wine to pair with grilled meats or even a pizza.

9) 2015 Scheid Vineyards Pinot Noir ($36)
From California, this wine is made from 100% Pinot Noir, a blend of grapes from two estate vineyards, and it is aged for about 9 months in neutral French oak. With a 14.1% ABV, the wine has an appealing nose of red and black fruits with a hint of spice. On the palate, the wine is light bodied and silky, with a complex melange of flavors, from cherry to blackberry, cranberry to plum, with subtle spice notes, a touch of vanilla, and a hint of smoke, especially on the lengthy finish. An elegant Pinot, this is a wine to slowly savor over the course of an evening.

10) 2015 Kocabağ Öküzgözü ($19.99)
This is the first wine from Turkey that I've ever reviewed and it won't be my last. Öküzgözü is an indigenous grape with high acidity and mild tannins, tending to make soft, easy drinking wines similar in some respects to Gamay or Pinot Noir. This wine possesses a medium-red color with an interesting nose of black cherry and raspberry, with a few spice notes. On the palate, it is light bodied, with plenty of acidity, and delicious ripe plum and black cherry flavors, enhanced by a mild earthiness and hints of spice. It has a very Old World feel to it, with mild tannins, a moderately lengthy finish, and is simply tasty.

This is always my toughest list to compile because there are numerous other excellent wines which I could have added. I had to ponder long over which wines to actually select for the main list, meaning that I had to eliminate other worthy wines. To give some credit to those other worthy wines, which almost made the Top Ten list, I have an Honorable Mention list. These are also wines you definitely should check out.

Honorable Mention

1) 2016 Alto do Joa Tinto ($15-$17)

This compelling Portuguese wine is a field blend of 20 grapes, including Alvarelhão, Bastardo, Chasselas Suíça, Cornifesto, Dona Branca, Folgasão, Formosa, Jaen, Mourisco, and Tinta Amarela. With a dark red color, and an alluring nose, I was captivated by this wine from my first taste. It is elegant and silky smooth, with well-integrated tannins, good acidity, and a touch of rusticness. Its complex melange of flavors includes ripe plum, black cherry, fig, dark spices, and a subtle earthiness. A long and lingering finish tantalizes and satisfies. It over delivers for the price and was pure pleasure on the palate.

2) 2009 Murganheira Touriga Nacional Bruto Blanc de Noirs Espumante ($20-$25)

Another Portuguese wine, this Sparking wine is made from 100% Touriga Nacional, which is certainly more unique. Almost a Rosé in color, and with tiny bubbles, there are mild red fruit notes on the aroma. As soon as I tasted a sip, bright berry flavors burst on my tongue, such a pleasurable taste and sensation. Dry and crisp, once I got past the berries, there were subtle notes of almond and plum, as well as a lingering finish. If I could have easily transported it home from Portugal, I would have bought a case of this bubbly.

3) Dow 2011 Late Bottled Vintage Port ($25-$30)

Portugal is taking dominance on this Honorable Mention list. This Port has an amazing taste and aroma, being more dry than sweet, with concentrated black fruit flavors, notes of dried fruit, spicy accents, and plenty of complexity. Well balanced, this is a powerful Port yet still restrained, more elegant than muscular. And you can easily enjoy it now without a need for further aging. Pure deliciousness at a very reasonable price.

4) Quinta Santa Eufemia 20 Year Old White Port ($25)

And one more Portuguese wine, a rare aged White Port, made from a blend of at least Malvasia Fina, Gouveio, Moscatel Galego, and Rabigato. It is fermented in traditional lagares, granite treading tanks where the grapes are trod on by foot. It was aged for about 9 months in stainless steel and then for at least more 20 years in wooden casks. Sniffing your glass, you'll be seduced by an alluring blend of honey, floral and herbal scents, with wisps of citrus. On the palate, the complexity of the aromas is still evident, with each sip bringing something new to your mouth. There is a mild sweetness, well balanced by its acidity, with bright honey notes, citrus flavors, and touches of herbs. It is more full bodied and rich, with a long, lingering finish that soothes and satisfies. It is well worth the effort to seek it out, especially due to its complexity and superb taste.

5) Valdespino "Tio Diego" Amontillado ($25-$30)

This fascinating Sherry is produced from Palomino grapes all sourced from the Macharnudo Alto, making it a single-vineyard Sherry, which is rare in the Sherry industry. It is also one of the few Sherries that is still fermented in cask, in American oak, with nearly all other Sherries fermented in stainless steel. This Amontillado begins its life by spending from eight to twelve years under flor, like a Fino Sherry, and then spent another five to eight years without flor, aging oxidatively, averaging about 16-18 years in total. This Sherry has a compelling aroma, and the complex taste is nutty with rich caramel, vanilla and spice, as well as lots of acidity. It also possesses a long and pleasing finish. When I think of this Sherry, I think of it as delicious and comforting, fueling my belly and soul.

6) Gonzalez Byass Tio Pepe Fino En Rama ($27/750ml)

An En Rama Sherry is unfiltered or lightly filtered, which tends to produce a Sherry that is more intense and complex. With a 15% ABV, the Tio Pepe Fino En Rama has a bright golden color and is aromatic, with intriguing notes of toast and the briny nature of the sea. On the palate, it is fresh and dry, with a complex and intense melange of citrus, almonds, and the taste of the ocean. The finish has a tinge of bitterness, which doesn't detract from the taste, and lingers on your palate for quite a time. It is not as light and subtle as more heavily filtered Fino Sherries. I'm a big fan of this style and love the intense expressiveness of this Tio Pepe.

7) NV Willm Crémant d’Alsace Rosé ($18)

Made from 100% Pinot Noir, this Alsace bubbly is produced by the méthode champenoise and remains on the lees for about 12 months. With an appealing nose of red fruits and a touch of spice, this is a delicious and lush Crémant with ripe flavors of strawberry, cherry and raspberry. Dry, crisp, and clean, with a fine effervescence, this is a true crowd pleaser. At this price, it is an excellent value for the taste and complexity found within the bottle. 

8) 2014 San Felice Il Grigio Chianti Classico Riserva ($25)

This Italian wine is made from 100% Sangiovese, which spent about 24 months in oak, 20% in small barriques, and 1 year in the bottle. It is made in a more traditional style, which is my preference, and is quite good, with nice acidity, notes of cherry and black fruit, mild spice notes, and low tannins. It is delicious, but definitely does best when paired with food, especially meat or a hearty dish. To me, this is an example of a very good traditional Chianti Classico.

9) 2016 Bodegas Garzón Albariño Single Vineyard ($27)

From Uruguay, thus wine is made from 100% Albarino, selected from the best seven plots in the vineyard. About 80% of the grapes were fermented in large, concrete tanks (without epoxy) and the rest were fermented in untoasted oak barrels. The wine spent about 8 months on the lees. This is an impressive wine, elegant and complex, something meant to be slowly sipped and savored. It has a richer texture, great acidity, and more savory notes with only underlying and subtle fruit notes. The finish is long and satisfying, simply a stellar wine. 

10) 2015 Windvane Carneros Pinot Noir ($45)
This California Pinot Noir, from the Carneros region, possesses a medium red color and an enticing aroma of red fruit with mild, underlying spice notes. On the palate, the complex wine presents delicious and intense flavors of red cherry and blackberry, enhanced by mild spice notes and plenty of acidity. Medium-bodied, the finish is fairly lengthy and satisfying, ending with a silky crispness. Paired with Chinese sausages, the acidity of the wine helped to balance the sweetness of the sausages, and its flavors worked well with the spices and flavors of the sausage.

Summary

Eight wine countries and regions made the list this year, the same amount as last year. France dominates, occupying four spots, which include two wines from the Alsace region. The rest of the list is occupied by Germany, Spain, Portugal, Uruguay, Turkey and California. The list is also broken down into one Sparkling wine, one Aromatized wine, one White wine and seven Red wines.

On the Honorable Mention list, six countries made the list, compared to seven last year. Portugal dominates this list, with four spots, and Spain takes second place with two spots. The rest of the spots were taken by France (Alsace), Italy, Uruguay, and California. The list is also broken down into two Sparkling wines, four Fortified wines, three Red wines, and one White wine. Last year, there weren't any Fortified wines on this list.

When you combine the two lists, France (with three from Alsace) and Portugal are tied for first place, each with five spots. In comparison, last year's leader of this combined list was the country of Georgia with four spots, while Portugal had two spots and France only one. This year, Spain occupied three spots while Uruguay and California both had two spots. Rounding out the combined list are Germany, Turkey and Italy, each with one spot. In addition, the combined list includes three Sparkling wines, four Fortified wines, one Aromatized wine, two White wines, and ten Red wines.

I have plenty of other recommendations for wines at this price point on my blog. There are top notch wines from countries all over the world, made from an incredibly diverse selection of grapes and you can still find plenty of values too. My advice is that you seek out wines outside of your comfort zone. Explore the multitude of diversity in the wonderful world of wine. Taste and try anything new, unique or potentially interesting. I am sure your search will lead to new favorites.

If you have some of your own recommendations for wines that are over $15 but under $50, please add them to the comments.

Rappie Pie & Valdespino "Tio Diego" Amontillado: A Comfort Pairing

Rappie Pie, a traditional Arcadian dish. Valdespino "Tio Diego" Amontillado, produced by a bodega where embraces tradition. Together, they produce a compelling pairing that works on multiple levels, satisfying the mind, heart and soul.

International Sherry Week, which begins today and runs through October 14, is a celebration of the wonders of Sherry, a fortified wine made in a specific demarcated region in southern Spain. It is a time for the ardent promotion of this fascinating and delicious wine, to expose more people to this wine, hoping some will become Sherry converts. This year, about 2,500 Sherry events will be held worldwide, including several in the Boston area. One of these events is a blogger competition, where 20 chosen bloggers received a bottle of Sherry and had to create a perfect food pairing for it. I was one of those fortunate 20 people and ultimately, after careful deliberation, decided to pair my Sherry with Rappie Pie.

I was sent a bottle of the Valdespino "Tio Diego" Amontillado ($25-$30). The history of this bodega extends back to the 13th century, during a time when the Moors, Muslims from North Africa, controlled most of Southern Spain, including Jerez. On October 9, 1264, King Alphonse X, also known as El Sabio, the “Wise,” successfully conquered Jerez, seizing control back from the Moors. As a reward for their bravery and loyalty, King Alphonse awarded land and vineyards to some of his best knights, including Alonso Valdespino, the start of the Valdespino's involvement in the wine business, making it one of the oldest Sherry bodegas in the region.

During the Modern era, in 1999, Valdespino was purchased by Bodegas Grupo Estevez, a family-owned group that was established in 1974 and owns other bodegas as well. They have allowed Valdespino to remain true to their traditions and old winemaking methods, as well as maintaining their concern for the importance of terroir. Grupo Estévez owns about 800 hectares of vineyards, with 256 hectares in the famed Macharnudo Pago with its valued albariza soils, considered the best place to grow the Palomino grape. There is also a sub-area within this Pago known as the Macharnudo Alto, situated at the highest elevation of the vineyard.

The Palomino grapes for the Valdespino "Tio Diego" Amontillado are all sourced from the Macharnudo Alto, making it a single-vineyard Sherry, which is rare in the Sherry industry. Uniquely, it is also one of the few Sherries that is still fermented in cask, in American oak, with nearly all other Sherries fermented in stainless steel. This Amontillado begins its life by spending from eight to twelve years under flor, like a Fino Sherry, and then spends another five to eight years without flor, aging oxidatively, averaging about 16-18 years in total.

This Sherry has a special place in my heart as I first tasted it back in September 2010, while visiting  Bodegas Grupo Estevez.  My time in the Jerez region, exploring various bodegas, was a fascinating and wondrous trip, with many great memories, helping to solidify my deep passion for Sherry. I previously described the Valdespino "Tio Diego" Amontillado as: "It had a compelling aroma, and the complex taste was nutty with rich caramel, vanilla and spice, as well as lots of acidity. It also possessed a long and pleasing finish, another sherry I would strongly recommend." When I think of this Sherry, I think of it as delicious and comforting, fueling my belly and soul.

As for Rappie Pie, we need to delve once again into history, back to the 17th century, when the Acadians were the earliest European settlers of Canada, having originated in France, and primarily settled in Nova Scotia and New Brunswick. Unfortunately, the English expelled most of them in the 18th century, with numerous Acadians relocating to Louisiana. When Acadians were allowed to return to Nova Scotia, they found that most of the best land was already claimed by others, so they were left with land that was hard to grow much else except potatoes, making it a central ingredient of their diets. Though there are unsubstantiated legends that rappie pie was first created in the 16th century, there is much more evidence of its origins beginning around 1755, when potatoes became so important to Acadians.

Rappie pie is a made from grated potatoes or in French, "patates râpées." Once the potatoes are grated, most of the water and starch is removed. This used to be done by squeezing the potatoes in a cheese cloth, a laborious process, so that it would take two to three days to make rappie pie. It is thought that the starch that was removed from the potatoes would later be used for their clothing, wasting nothing in the preparation of rappie pie.

Later during the preparation, a hot broth would be added, replacing the lost water, along with meat (such as chicken or pork), onions and pork fat to make a hearty, casserole-type dish. The amount of added broth was usually judged by the consistency of the mixture, and some people prefer a wetter texture while other prefer less. There are also a number of variations on the basic ingredients, some people using different types of meats, from rabbit to beef, or even seafood like clams. Much depended on what ingredients were readily available to the people at that time.

Considering the length of time it took to prepare and cook rappie pie, it primarily was for special occasions. Preparation was also a joint effort, with both the men and women taking on specific roles, the men engaged in the laborious task of removing the water and starch from the potatoes while the women would prepare the both and pick the chickens clean of meat. The men and women continued working together on the rest of the tasks, a true family project, and the rappie pie would commonly be made and served in large rectangular pans. Recipes generally weren't written down, instead being passed down from person to person, generation to generation.

Once you have a plate of rappie pie in front of you, you might top it with butter or molasses, and there is an old adage that the English use butter and the French molasses. Some people may even top their rappie pie with other items, such as even ketchup, but that is much less common. My personal preference is butter, though some of my family like molasses.

My wife and her family, the Babins/Babines, are originally from Nova Scotia and they introduced me to Rappie Pie. The family didn't write down their recipe, but passed it down from generation to generation. As making rappie pie was a special occasion, we decided to transform it into an annual family event, a time for everyone to gather together outside of the usual marriages, christenings and other formal family functions. In fact, we ended up holding these gatherings two to three times a year, inviting all of the family, from great-grand children to cousins, and many friends as well. They were informal gatherings, with plenty of delicious food and drink, and brought our family closer.

We are fortunate that making rappie pie has gotten easier to prepare, as you can now purchase frozen, pre-grated potato blocks, so we don't need to spend all the laborious time removing the water and starch. However, it still remains an all-day task, though that is better than two or three days. We do have family that still makes it in a traditional manner. We have also written down the recipe, so future generations will be able to continue the tradition, to ensure it endures. We are not alone, with numerous other families with Nova Scotian connections making their own rappie pie. There is even a Facebook group Rappie Pie Rules, with over 3500 members, from all over the world, sharing a love for making rappie pie. 

So, does Rappie Pie pair well with an Amontillado Sherry? 

Let's first consider the geeky science behind Sherry and food pairings. As Sherry contains approximately 307 volatile compounds, far more than most others wines, it is extremely versatile and good friendly. Because of all these volatile compounds, Sherry has an affinity for many different foods, which share the same aromatic family. No other single wine has an affinity as many different aromatic families. Unlike other wines, Sherry also contain a group of compounds, called diketopiperazines, which enhance the flavor of umami-rich foods. As Amontillado is an oxidative style, its dominant phenols include benzoic acid (almond aroma), cinnamic acid (cinnamon aroma), phenolic aldehyde (walnut aroma), and coumarin (vanillin, tonka bean and cut hay aromas).

In summary, and at its simplest, all of this scientific information means that Sherry is a killer pairing for a wide variety of foods. That is all many consumers want to know.

The Valdespino "Tio Diego" Amontillado is a silky, elegant wine, with an alluring aroma and pleasant, complex and primary flavors of nuts, caramel, and vanilla. There is also a hint of salinity, beautiful acidity, and a lengthy, soothing finish. Its flavors complemented and enhanced the mild flavors of the chicken and pork, touched by the herbs and seasoning, we added to the rappie pie, as well as the slightly smoky bacon atop it. Chicken and pork are traditional ingredients for my family, and they are also traditional pairings for Amontillado Sherry. The sweet onions and glutinous potatoes also meshed well with the slightly, almost sweet flavors of the Amontillado. When you also consider how numerous people enjoy molasses, with its sweet and strong flavors, atop their rappie pie, then it's very easy to see how this Amontillado, certainly milder than molasses, would be even more pleasing. Everyone at dinner was impressed with this pairing. 

Let's now consider a different rationale for wine pairing, one which seems especially fitting for this pairing. Rappie pie is hearty comfort food, filling your belly with joy, especially during the Fall and Winter. It's not an intellectual dish, but one which appeals to your soul. When you enjoy such a dish, you probably don't want to think much about the wine pairing, preferring to revel in the simple joy of the food. Thus, you desire a "comfort wine," something which you don't have to think much about but which will give you much pleasure.

The Valdespino "Tio Diego" Amontillado fits that description, its elegant smoothness and pleasing flavors easy to love. Each sip makes you smile, and you feel it in your heart and soul. You certainly can intellectualize this Sherry and food pairings, but you can ignore that aspect as well and simply enjoy it as a comfort wine, one which would pair well with many different comfort foods. Most consumers don't understand the science behind food pairings, but they can easily understand the idea of pairing a comfort wine with a comfort food. Maybe that is the best, and easiest, path to getting more people to enjoy Sherry.

The next night, we ate leftover rappie pie, fried up in a pan, and sipped the rest of the Valdespino "Tio Diego" Amontillado. It still felt like a delicious pairing, a cozy duo that continued to bring me comfort and joy.

Here is a Recipe for Rappie Pie:

Ingredients
20 lbs  Potatoes
2          3-4 lb chickens
2 lbs     Pork chops or boneless pork chops
6           Medium onions
1 tsp     Ground thyme
1/2 tsp  Ground bay leaves
1/2 tsp   Poultry seasoning
2 tbsp    Salt
1 tbsp    Pepper
20          Strips of bacon

Directions
1) Place the cleaned chickens, pork chops and seasonings into a large pot covered with cold water. Simmer for 1.5 to 2 hours until the meat falls easily off the bones.
2) Remove the meat and cut into small pieces, placing them into a large bowl. Return the bones to the pot and continue cooking until the stock is required.
3) Peel the potatoes, soaking in cold water to retain color until needed. Finely grate about 10 potatoes at a time with a hand grater or in a food processor. Place the grated potatoes into a cheesecloth bag and squeeze until all the water and starch is removed and the potatoes are quite dry. Repeat for the rest of the potatoes. Measure the liquid removed from the potatoes as equal amounts of stock will be added later.
4) Finely dice the onions and then caramelize them in a pan.
5) Put all of the dried potatoes into a large bowl and gradually add the hot stock in the amount equal to the liquid removed from the potatoes. Stir slowly to scald the potatoes until they have a jelly-like consistency, making sure there are no lumps.
6) Cover the bottom of a well-greased 20 x 12 x 3.5 inch pan with half of the potatoes. Place a layer of the chicken and pork mixture atop the potatoes. Then, place a layer of onions atop the chicken and pork. Cover all of this with the rest of the potatoes. Place the bacon slices atop the potatoes.
7) Bake in a preheated over at 350 degrees Fahrenheit for 3.5-4 hours, or until a golden crust forms on top.

Serves about 20 people though you can easily cut the ingredients in half to make a smaller portion. Instead of chicken and pork, you could also substitute rabbit, lamb, beef, clams, scallops or some other protein.

(For more background and information about Sherry, please check out my 40+ articles on All About Sherry.)

International Sherry Week: Events At Taberna de Haro

What is one of the tastiest, most intriguing, and unique wines that you are probably not drinking? It is most likely Sherry, a fascinating fortified wine from a small region of southern Spain.

So, what will you do to celebrate International Sherry Week?

International Sherry Week, celebrating its 5th year, will be held from October 8 to October 14, 2018. This year, there will be about 2,500 Sherry events across the world, held in about 30 different countries. You can check out this Event listings to see which events are close to you. These events are intended to spread a passion for Sherry, to educate people about its wonders, and convert wine lovers into Sherry lovers as well.

As a long-term lover and fervent advocate of Sherry, I enjoy taking the opportunity, to spread my passion for this wine, to intrigue others to give it a try. Sherry remains a niche beverage in the U.S., and most of the Sherry imported into the U.S. is sweet. As such, many Americans have not encountered the myriad joys of dry Sherry. Even many wine lovers have little experience with dry Sherry. It is dry Sherry which is enjoyed the most in Spain, and there must be a very good reason for that fact. For more background and information about Sherry, check out my 40+ articles on All About Sherry.

 

Locally, one of the best places to celebrate Sherry Week is at one of several events being held at Taberna de Haro in Brookline. Chef/owner Deborah Hansen has a deep love for Sherry, and her restaurant has 60+ Sherries on their ever changing wine list. It has the best and largest Sherry list of any place in the Boston area and Deborah has some cool events planned for Sherry Week. If I weren't going to be in Portugal during Sherry Week, I definitely would be attending some of these events. 

Monday, October 8, from 5pm -10pm
Splash Me!: Enjoy a complimentary splash of sherry with your dinner on Monday to kick off International Sherry Week.
--Manzanilla La Guita Hijos de Rainera Perez Marin
--Manzanilla Fina Callejuela Callejuela
--Fino El Maestro Sierra El Maestro Sierra

Tuesday, October 9, from 7pm - 8:45pm
I Can Make You a Sherry Lover in 6 Glasses or Less: This tasting seminar is an introduction to the large and lovely world of sherry, a world that has captivated Deborah for 30 years. You’ll taste methodically through 6 styles of sherry, all from the formidable house of Valdespino, identifying their complex flavors, discussing how they differ from wine, how to pair them with food, when to drink them, and the variables that make them unique. For the curious and/or the casual drinker of sherry. Tasting includes tapas paired with each.
$50 Registration and pre-payment required. Call 617-277-8272, evenings
Sherries exclusively by Valdespino:
--Manzanilla Delicioso
--Fino Inocente
--Amontillado Tio Diego
--Palo Cortado Viejo CP
--Oloroso Don Gonzalo
--Pedro Ximénez El Candado

Wednesday, October 10, from 7pm - 8:45pm
Fino and her Finesse: Fino is often the favorite sherry. Easy to pronounce and simple to adore, fino also has several iterations you might not know about. In this tasting seminar, we’ll compare young finos with old. Hint: It’s all about the time under flor. You’ll taste fino en rama as well as finos with palmas, as well as tease out the differences between fino from Jerez de la Frontera vs. El Puerto de Santa Maria. A close-up in-tight look at fino, the golden child of Jerez.
$85 Registration and pre-payment required. Call 617-277-8272, evenings
--Fino Cruz del Mar, César Florido
--Fino Tradición 10 yr., Bodegas Tradición
--Fino La Jarana, Emilio Lustau
--Fino Puerto Fino, Emilio Lustau
--Fino en Rama, Saca July 2013 Equipo Navazos
--Fino Amontillado Tres Palmas, Gonzalez Byass

Thursday, October 11, from 5pm -10pm
Flight of Sherry Cocktails
Try 4 different mini-cocktails, all containing sherry in large or small proportions with a complimentary tapa. $25

Rant: Should You Drink Port Wine Before, During Or After Dinner?

“Portugal Giving Up Port Making
OPORTO, Portugal (UPI) Portugal’s port wine industry turned sadly today to the task of developing a wine that tastes good served with soda, ice and salted peanuts. After centuries of turning out casks of port wine, the industry's leaders have decided that the jet age prefers almost anything to port, even sherry. "This idea of turning port into a sort of lemonade might seem like a crime of the greatest magnitude,” said Jose Correia de Oliveira, Portugal’s secretary of commerce. One of the biggest headaches the industry has is that port is an after-dinner drink. "It is very difficult for us to persuade the consumer to hold off drinking until after dinner,” Oliveira said."
--Madera Tribune (CA), March 9, 1960

The demise of Port? It was apparently a low time for the Port industry, though it raises an intriguing point concerning how wine may be viewed by the general public. If a wine is perceived only as an after-dinner drink, its consumption will be more limited than other wines that might also be drank as an aperitif or during dinner. In addition, not everyone may want to continue drinking after dinner if they consumed a significant amount of wine before dessert. After dinner wines, including dessert wines, generally remain as niche wines, and may struggle to maintain popularity.

When you think of Port Wine, do you think of it more as an after-dinner drink? Do you think of it as an aperitif too? Do you think of it when considering wine pairings for food (and I'm not referring to dessert courses)? I suspect that most consumers still think of Port as something you drink after dinner, maybe with chocolate, blue cheese or a cigar. Hopefully, that can change and consumers can be more open to drinking Port at other times as well.

Historically, it appears that such a change of view took place in certain spheres, helping to save the Port wine industry from its troubles. Seven years after the above newspaper article, there was an apparent turnaround and people began drinking Port wine as an aperitif, with France in the lead.

"Portugal Wine Usage Grows
NEW YORK (UPl)—More than 9 million gallons of port wine from Portugal were consumed throughout the world in 1966. and port, once considered solely as a dessert wine, is gaining popularity as an aperitif, reports a producer of port wines from Oporto. France is leading Europe in making port wine a fashionable aperitif, according to Sandemann Brothers. The firm estimates three-fifths of its world port sales now are for consumption as a before-dinner drink."
--Desert Sun (CA), September 26, 1967

In the U.S., Port wine seems to still be more of an after-dinner drink. And that is probably a significant reason why it is such a niche beverage, despite its recent slight increase in consumption. We need to educate people that Port is appropriate throughout the course of a dinner, from aperitif to after dinner. We need to show people that Port can be paired with a variety of dishes throughout the course of a mult-course dinner. That is more difficult as few restaurants host wine dinners that pair Port throughout the courses of a meal. Back in 2012, Legal Sea Foods hosted such a dinner and it was an enlightening experience. We need more restaurants to take this step, to help make it seem more normal to pair Port with dinner.

These issues plague other wine as well, from Sherry to Champagne, though you'll find more wine dinners featuring those two wines paired throughout the meal. Too many people think all Sherry is sweet, so it too is often seen as an after-dinner drink. However, local Spanish restaurants, and especially Taberna de Haro, have been educating consumers about Sherry, showing them that most Sherry is actually dry and pairs well with a wide variety of foods. Champagne is more often seen as a celebratory wine, and not something you pair with dinner, yet that too is slowly changing. The key to all of these niche wines is that they do not possess a single specific taste profile, but rather possess much diversity, and that diversity makes them more food friendly.

When I travel to Porto and the Douro region in two weeks, I'll be especially interested in gaining more information on Port and food pairings, which I'll share with my readers. However, I will call on my readers to be more open minded about these niche wines, and to experiment with food pairings. Don't see these wines as single-occasion wines, but rather see their versatility.

Port wine for breakfast, anyone?

Perfection In A Bottle: Bodegas Yuste Conde de Aldama Amontillado Sherry

Is this Sherry truly perfection in a bottle? 

In my own personal view, it was perfection, though I'll qualify that declaration by stating the sense of perfection came through due to a variety of factors, from the friends who shared that bottle with me to the lengthy history of this bottle. However, on its own, without all of those other factors, this Sherry is exceptional, maybe the best Sherry I've ever consumed. It very likely may be the best wine I drink this year. I can't recommend it highly enough and I hope to acquire more of it one day. If you ever find this Sherry on a wine store shelf, don't hesitate: BUY IT!

Before getting into the history of this Sherry, I should give a brief explanation of the Solera system, a process of fractional blending that is essential to the production of Sherry. A solera consists of a number of different tiers of barrels, known as criaderas. The oldest tier is commonly located on the floor of the bodega and progressively younger tiers are placed above this oldest tier. At various times during a year, Sherry will be extracted for bottling from the oldest tier, commonly 10%-15% of the barrel though it may be as much as 35%. Then, Sherry from the next oldest tier will be added to refill the oldest tier, and this process is then repeated for each tier as it is used to refill another tier. As such, the oldest tier eventually becomes a blend of Sherries of many different ages.

Now, onto the fascinating history of this very old Sherry. The origin of the Bodegas Yuste Conde de Aldama Amontillado Sherry extends back to the early 18th century, when the solera system first started to be used by the Sherry industry. The bodegas of Aguilar y Cia were established in 1740 in Sanlúcar, and the solera that would eventually result in the Yuste Amontillado was founded sometime between 1740-1750. Just take a moment to consider its age, before even the U.S. acquired its independence, and maybe during King George's War.

We then consider the family of León Aldama y Respaldiza, which came to Sanlúcar from the province of Álava, part of the Basque region. In 1823, León took possession of the bodegas of Aguilar y Cia, acquiring their old barrels of Sherry. His family became quite famed in Sanlúcar, especially for their vast vineyards and fine wines. When León died in 1863, his two nephews, Pedro Aldama Gaviña and José Gabriel Aldama Camba, became his primary heirs. Eventually, José became the first Conde de Aldama ("Count of Aldama") and seems to have taken primary control of the family's wine holdings and production.

During the 1880s, the dreaded phylloxera came to the Jerez region, destroying numerous vineyards and causing a number of bodegas to close. José lost some of his valuable vineyards and though American rootstock was used to save Spanish vines, José found fault with these new vines. He didn't care for the wine made from the new grapes and refused to add the wine to nearly all of his soleras, except for a few test cases. He basically stopped producing any further wine, and only purchased pre-phylloxera wine to add to his established soleras. Around 1888, José finally decided to seal at least some of this oldest soleras, such as those acquired from Aguilar y Cia, behind plaster, allegedly to protect their value and prevent them from being adulterated with wine from new grafted vines.

When José passed away, his nephew, Antonio Aldama Mendivil, the Marqués de Ayala, acquired the estate. Antonio took well to the Sherry business, acting as an almacenista for a number of other companies, and he also invested in other business, from mining to banking. The old soleras, hidden behind the plaster, remained untouched. Eventually, around 1921, there were significant changes and Antonio's financial situation came down crashing as he had started paying insufficient attention to his businesses, being distracted by other matters such as his philanthropy.

Due to his bankruptcy, Antonio was forced to sell off most of his businesses and investments. It then appears that in 1927, the old solera from Aguilar y Cia that had been hidden behind plaster was finally unearthed and then sold to Manuel Argueso Hortal, a wine company that no longer exists. Even under that new ownership, the solera remained essentially untouched, eventually being sold to Valdespino and then later being acquired, with a winery, by a property developer.

Bodegas Yuste was founded by Francisco "Paso" Yuste Brioso, and in 1991, he purchased the historic Bodega Santa Ana in Sanlúcar, and then in 1998, he bought the Viña La Alamedilla, 46 hectares of vineyards in the Jerez pago Carrascal. Around 2001, the property developer who acquired the old solera and winery from Valdespino sold it all to Bodegas Yuste, which took the materials to reconstruct the Bodega Los Ángeles, located in Sanlúcar. This became the home for the ancient solera begun so long ago by Aguilar y Cia.

To this point, the only wine that entered the solera was a small amount to compensate for natural evaporation. Bodegas Yuste later chose to bottle two Sherries from this solera, an Amontillado and, due to some barrel variation, a Palo Cortado. The average age of these Sherries is estimated at 130-150 years old.

Have you ever tasted a wine that old? And how much would you expect to pay for such an old wine?

Last fall, while visiting Chicago with my friend Adam, we stopped at a wine store and I noticed the Bodegas Yuste Conde de Aldama Amontillado Sherry (500ml/$210) on a shelf. As a passionate lover of Sherry, it was difficult to resist the siren call of this unique Sherry. I've previously enjoyed some old Sherries but nothing this old. I also loved the nature of the bottle, almost like a decanter (and I've kept it now that the Sherry is gone). I bought the Sherry and then fervently hoped it would make the flight home safely, which it fortunately did.

To me, the price was extremely reasonable considering the age and uniqueness of this Sherry. Sherry is too often under-appreciated so it can be an excellent value. You would be hard pressed to find another type of wine, of a similar age, at this price point. I also felt that this might be my only opportunity to purchase this Sherry, considering it is a very low production wine.

The next important question I needed to consider was when to open the bottle. Obviously, this was a special wine, and should probably be opened for a celebratory occasion. I finally decided that I would open it for my birthday this year, a kind of a milestone event. Though I could have easily stored it away for several years, I wanted to experience this Sherry, to drink and enjoy it. I didn't want to wait too long. I couldn't deny the siren within this bottle beckoning to me.

And as I've said many times before, wine is meant to be shared, and tastes better when consumed with family and friends. Thus, I needed to make the hard decision of who to share this Sherry with, especially considering it was only 500ml, about 17 ounces. It was extremely difficult to narrow down my list of wine-loving friends to a mere handful, and I hope that I can share another bottle one day with others of my friends.

Now, how can I describe this unique Sherry when words are truly inadequate to depict its totality? First, it is easiest to begin with the Sherry's color, a rich mahogany. Then, after pulling out the cork stopper, it becomes more difficult to describe the nose, a rich and complex melange of harmonious aromas that seduced and tantalized me. Such an intensity and it was easy to sit there and continue to sniff the glass for a time, seeking everything within the aromas. You could identify some of the aromas, such as almonds, citrus, and tobacco, but then there were wisps of more exotic spices and aromas, which sometimes were tougher to identify, but pleasant nonetheless.

And the taste. Wow! Wow! Once again, there was complexity and harmony, a diverse melange of flavors, both familiar and not. So much concentration and bright intensity, yet still remaining elegant and subtle in certain aspects. There was the brine of the ocean, almonds and walnuts, caramel and vanilla, citrus and dried fruit. There were also hints of more exotic spices as well as a touch of earthiness. Each sip brought something new to my palate, exciting me with each taste. The finish lingered on and on, almost endlessly, with sharp acidity and more enticing flavors. I never wanted to stop drinking this Sherry and have never tasted a Sherry as good as this one.

Considering its extreme age, high quality and exquisite taste, I highly recommend this Sherry and consider it an excellent value, even at its price point. This Sherry truly made my birthday a most memorable occasion.

(For more information about Sherry, check out my 40+ articles at All About Sherry)

The Sound Of A Guitar: Tio Pepe Fino En Rama Sherry

It bears regular repeating, and I can't say it enough, so Stop Neglecting Sherry! Having written over 40 articles on Sherry, it's clear that I'm a passionate advocate for this unique, fortified wine from Spain. It remains a niche wine, under appreciated by far too many wine lovers, and I want that to change. Today, I'm here with a review of a recently released Sherry, one representative of a growing and exciting movement in the Sherry industry, the En Rama style.

When Fino and Manzanilla Sherries age within the barrel, a layer of flor, a film of yeast, develops atop the liquid. Generally, the flor prevents oxidation and also contributes to the Sherry's aromas. For some time, Sherries have commonly undergone heavy filtration to eliminate flor residue and other impurities, as well to make a more stable and lighter wine. However, such filtration also can strip out some of the flavor, texture and color of Sherry. There is now a growing movement to produce some Fino and Manzanilla without heavy filtration, and these type of Sherries have now become known as En Rama.

En Rama Sherry is either unfiltered or usually lightly filtered, allowing the Sherry to taste more like it does directly out of the barrel. It tends to be more intense and complex, with richer colors and aromas. En Rama Sherry is often released in the spring, as that is the best time for the flor, when it is most active and thick over the wine in the barrel. This category is less than 20 years old and it is only within the last few years has it become more easily available locally, in both restaurants and wine shops.

Back in 2010, González Byass, released their first En Rama, using their famed Tio Pepe Fino. Coincidentally, I visited the González Byass Bodega in 2010, though there wasn't any discussion of En Rama at that time. You can check out my prior article for more background on this compelling bodega, which produces a full line of compelling Sherries. Each year, González Byass releases a new Tio Pepe Fino En Rama and 2018 is their ninth release. I recently received a media sample of this new En Rama and was thoroughly pleased with its taste and complexity.

The Fino En Rama is a blend, bottled in April, of 62 carefully selected barrels from the La Constancia and Rebollo cellars. The wine in these barrels, which spent 4-5 years in the solera, is made from Palomino grapes from the famed Macharnudo vineyards. The winemaker, Antonio Flores, has nicknamed this release Armonía Perfecta ("perfect harmony."), also noting that 2018 is "the very best interpretation of vine and cellar, chalk dust and long hours spent selecting this very unique, fresh wine: harmonious, like the sound of a guitar in the stillness of the afternoon."

For the first time, as well as the standard 750ml and 375ml bottles, the En Rama will also be available in a limited quantity of magnums. Many recommend that you consume En Rama within several months of purchase, with the assumption that it won't age well. However, that train of thought may be changing, and some now believe it can age, though obviously aged En Rama will taste very differently over time. With the release of an En Rama in a magnum, it may be support for aging this En Rama, especially as this vintage was so special.

With a 15% ABV, the Tio Pepe Fino En Rama ($27/750ml) has a bright golden color and is aromatic, with intriguing notes of toast and the briny nature of the sea. On the palate, it is fresh and dry, with a complex and intense melange of citrus, almonds, and the taste of the ocean. The finish has a tinge of bitterness, which doesn't detract from the taste, and lingers on your palate for quite a time. It is not as light and subtle as more heavily filtered Fino Sherries. I'm a big fan of this style and love the intense expressiveness of this Tio Pepe.

I'd recommend serving this Sherry slightly chilled and it would pair well with plenty of dishes, from fried foods to seafood, charcuterie to even pork. I enjoyed this Sherry with a simple dish of Fish Sticks, and it worked great. Share a glass of Sherry with friends and family. And I highly recommend you check out the Tio Pepe Fino En Rama.

Rant: Stop Neglecting Sherry

"There are only two kinds of sherry, the good and the better."
--Jerez saying

What is one of the tastiest, most intriguing, and unique wines that you are probably not drinking? It is most likely Sherry, a fascinating fortified wine from a small region of southern Spain.

As a long-term lover and fervent advocate of Sherry, I enjoy taking the opportunity, to spread my passion for this wine, to intrigue others to give it a try. Sherry remains a niche beverage in the U.S., and most of the Sherry imported into the U.S. is sweet. As such, many Americans have not encountered the myriad joys of dry Sherry. Even many wine lovers have little experience with dry Sherry. It is dry Sherry which is enjoyed the most in Spain, and there must be a very good reason for that fact. And due to reasons I'll explain in the near future, Sherry has been especially on my mind.

Sadly, Sherry sales have been on a decline in recent years but predications indicate it may be making a comeback. The IWSR, in their 2016-2021 Forecast Report, predicts that volume sales of premium Sherry will grow by 18%. As I've written in my history of Sherry, it is a cyclic wine, which has numerous ups and downs, and has always founds a way back up. So, I can easily understand why Sherry consumption could be on an upward swing.

Sherry education is essential to the promotion of Sherry consumption, to get more Americans exploring this intriguing fortified wine. Here are some items that hopefully will motivate you to discover more about Sherry.

• The Sherry region has a lengthy, fascinating history, extending back a few thousand years and may even the source of the Atlantis legend. 
• Palomino, the primary grape of Sherry, may have been planted by the ancient Phoenicians. Every sip of Sherry is a taste of history.
• Sherry may have been the first wine brought to the New World.
• The Mayflower, before it sailed to the New World by the Puritans, was used to transport Sherry.
• Aged Sherry is one of the best values in the wine world. You could buy 50 year old Sherry for $50-$100, far cheaper than almost any other aged wine on the market. 
• Francois Chartier, who has written on the science of food and wine pairings, states that Fino Sherry is the King of Food Pairings.
• A Sherry Bodega is radically different from the average wine cellar, helping to make Sherry possess its distinctive nature.
• Here are 10 Things you should know about Sherry.
• And here are 5 More Things you should know about Sherry.

Locally, Sherry is starting to get a little more visibility, albeit more in the form of Sherry cocktails. I enjoy such cocktails, but I would like to see more people enjoying Sherry on its own too. If you enjoy the flavors of Sherry in cocktails, then why not try the flavors on their own, without other flavors clouding the issue. Try a Fino or Manzanilla, an Amontillado or Oloroso. Or maybe even a Palo Cortado. And then you can move onto some Sherry variations such as En Rama.

The best place to enjoy Sherry is at Taberna de Haro in Brookline, which has over 60 Sherries on their list. Order a few tapas and get a flight of Sherries to compare and contrast. Chef/owner Deborah Hansen always has so many excellent and unique Sherries on her list. Whenever I drive by the restaurant, I nearly always have to stop for a glass of Sherry. Another restaurant with an excellent Sherry list is Tres Gatos, where you also can find some intriguing Sherries.

Stop missing out on the wonders of Sherry. Take a chance and order a couple dry Sherries, to taste something new. You can thank me later when you find a new favorite.

Gonzalez Byass La Copa Vermouth: From Sherry With Love

In a number of respects, Vermouth is the Rodney Dangerfield of the wine world, not getting sufficient respect. Many people don't even realize that it's a wine, thinking it's only a minor ingredient in cocktails. That needs to be changed and Vermouth needs to be respected and loved for all that it can offer.

As I've said before, "It's a wine with a fascinating history that extends back thousands of years...It can be delicious and complex, intriguing and diverse, and offers a template upon which a producer can put their individual stamp." Vermouth is a fortified and aromatized wine, which works well in cocktails but also can be enjoyed on its own, maybe with a ice cube or two. The intriguing complexity of some Vermouth makes it a compelling wine on its own. Fortunately, there are numerous producers taking Vermouth seriously, creating some unique and fascinating Vermouths, from a wide range of base wines and botanicals.

Gonzalez Byass, which was founded in 1835, is a Sherry producer, one I visited back in 2010, and they export a wide range of delicious Sherries. Back in the 19th century, they also made Red Vermouth, and two years ago they started to produce it once again, using the original recipe as their foundation. I received a media sample of this new product, the Gonzalez Byass La Copa Vermouth, and it is impressive and complex, delicious and versatile. This is a Vermouth for Sherry lovers, wine lovers and cocktail lovers, earning my highest recommendation.

The specific recipe for their Vermouth is considered proprietary, so they won't provide it, except that is not fully the case. Each year, the González Byass Foundation celebrates International Archives Day, which is held annually on June 9, by opening up their Historical Archives to the public. On this day, they have previously displayed the original recipe for their Vermouth, from 1896, and might do so again at future International Archives Days. They also have provided some basic information about the formula, enough to be intriguing.

The La Copa Vermouth is a blend of 75% Oloroso Sherry and 25% Pedro Ximinez Sherry, both from soleras that are approximately eight years old. It is rare to find any Vermouth made from Sherry, and we certainly need more such Vermouths. Some of the botanicals that are blended into the Vermouth include wormwood, angelica, savory, clove, orange peel, nutmeg, quinine, and cinnamon. The name, "La Copa," derives from the name of the branding iron used on the cattle and horses of the ranch of Marqués de Torresoto, the son of the bodegas’s founder Manuel Maria González. The label for the La Copa is also based on the original 19th century label for their Vermouth.

Relaunched in June 2016, La Copa Vermouth ($25) is a taste of history but one which also presents well in the present. On the nose, its complexity is first experienced, a wonderful melange of spices, salted nuts, and citrus notes. It's an alluring nose, one that will entice you to drink, to hopefully realize the vast promises of those aromas. On the palate, you're not disappointed in the least, intrigued by its complexity, balance and elegance. There is a superb blend of spices and herbs, with nuts, caramel, a touch of plum, candied orange and more. The Sherry influence is prominent and well integrated. There is balanced sweetness with hints of bitterness, exactly what you want from a fine vermouth. It's smooth with a lengthy, satisfying finish and is wonderful on its own, though it also does great in a Manhattan.

It is the use of the Sherry which elevates the quality of this Spanish Vermouth and I would love to see other Vermouths using Sherry as the base. Gonzalez Byass is producing a compelling wine, and I strongly recommend that all wine lovers sample this intriguing Vermouth. Consume it on its own, reveling in its complexity, or use it in your favorite cocktail.