Zagreb: Strolling Down Tkalčićeva Street (Part 2)

Upon my Friday afternoon arrival in Zagreb, after 16 hours in airports and airplanes, I was a bit tired from minimal sleep. Though a nap sounded good, I simply freshened up at my B&B and trekked out into the city. My time in the city was limited so I didn't want to waste any time sleeping. I wanted to immerse myself in Zagreb, to feel its culture and history, to interact with its people. I wanted to gain some understanding of what it meant to be Croatian. I began my explorations by wandering down the famed Tkalčićeva Street.

Known locally as Tkalča, it is a lengthy and curvy street filled with restaurants, cafes, bars, and small shops. It's a major tourist destination, and as you walk down the street, past many other people walking along, you see plenty of others sitting at the various outside patios enjoying drinks or food. This busy thoroughfare is much quieter in the early morning, though you'll see plenty of employees cleaning the area, their patios, and store fronts. Despite being touristy in some respects, there is much else of interest here, from intriguing sculptures to historical items. If you visit Zagreb, you definitely should check out Tkalčićeva Street, and be sure to keep your eyes out so you don't miss anything.

Tkalčićeva was once known as Potok ("Stream" or "Creek") Street as this is where the Medveščak stream was once located, separating the medieval communities of Kaptol and Gradac, as I mentioned yesterday. Kravi Most street crosses Tkalčićeva at one point, indicating the location where many of the battles between Kaptol and Gradac occurred. Potok street was later named after Ivan Krstitelj Tkalčić (1840-1905), a Kaptol priest, historian and archaeologist, who wrote many historical books about Zagreb and the church.

Near 45 Tkalčićeva Street, you'll see a bronze sculpture, known as “Lady in the Window,” which was created by sculptor Vera Drajh Kralj. Why is this naked woman peering out of a window? The sculpture is an homage to the risqué history of this street. Zagreb was the first European city with a legal red light district, and from 1899-1941, almost every house on Tkalčićeva street was a brothel, known as "houses of love!" There was a City Brothel Ordinance and all working women, who had to be at least 17 years old, had to possess a legal permit, have medical insurance and protection. The above sculpture symbolizes a prostitute waiting for a customer.

However, by the law, prostitutes couldn't just sit in a window naked and wait for customers, and they couldn't have signs either. Thus, some brothels would put up a colored light, and not just red lights. For example, one of the most popular, and expensive, brothels was the Kod Zelene Lampe, the "Green Lantern." Some other brothels and prostitutes would place a "garden gnome," or colored dwarf statue, outside their window. If it was standing up, the prostitute was available and if it was lying down, then she was busy with another customer. During this forty year period, the prostitution  trade was valuable to the city's economy and advertised as a tourist attraction.

Around 33 Tkalčićeva, there is a small park, which includes a bronze sculpture of Marija Jurić (1873-1957), who was better known by her pen-name Zagorka. She was the first female journalist in Croatian as well as a women's rights activist.  She wrote numerous articles for various newspapers and magazines, also having started a few of her own magazines. She also wrote a number of novels, though none of them yet have been translated into English.

This park has several benches where you can sit, including this one with a couple large, red hearts.

At the edge of this park, there is also an old building with a Sundial on the wall, which was created in 1955, and it is intended to accurately tell the time.

There is an interesting signpost on the street, with arrow signs pointing to locations that are relatively close and others which are quite a distance. From a Souvenir Shop which is only 3 meters away to Dubrovnik which is 580 kilometers away.

What is Iron Man doing in Zagreb? At 34 Tkalčićeva, you'll find a statue of Iron Man standing in front of Here Be Dragons, a small "ultimate geek shop." They sell a variety of pop culture t-shirts, glasses, statues, jewelry, and much more, from Game of Thrones to Harry Potter.

I picked up a Game of Thrones flask, with the words of Tyrion. Will be a good flask for my new Croatian Rakija, a brandy spirit.

Speaking of Rakija, also known as Rakhia, you'll find a bar dedicated to this brandy at 45 Tkalčićeva, a spot that boasts of offering over 100 types of Rakija. Rakija is common in this region of the world, and in Croatia, it can be made from about any type of fruit, though plums (šljivovica) and grapes (lozovača) are the most common. Some Rakija may also have the additions of honey, herbs and spices, such as Travarica, which contains a blend of wild herbs, though the exact blend will vary from producer to producer. Its alcohol content will vary from 20-40 proof

Previously, many people made their their own Rakija at home, and though it is not as prevalent as it once was, you'll still find people producing it at home. It used to be what people did with any leftover fruit. In Dalmatia, it's a tradition that when a guest comes to your home, you greet them with a shot of Rakija, a custom I encountered on a couple different occasions. On one of those occasions, I even had the chance to taste three different flavors of homemade Rakija, and it was delicious and well-made, nicely balanced. In a later article, I'll highlight the best Rakija I tasted in Croatia.

At the Rakhia Bar, there was a list of about 30 different Rakija, all priced at 12 Kuna per shot, about $1.80 U.S. However, prior to 8:00pm, all of these were offered at 50% off, so a shot cost less than $1.00 U.S. I asked the bartender to select five for me to taste, and I received Biska, Jagodicka, Limoncello, Lješnjak, and Bazga.

The Jagodicka (strawberry) and Limocello (lemon) were pleasant, with nice fruit flavors and a mild sweetness, although nothing special. The Lješnjak (hazelnut) had a strong nutty flavor, a mild sweetness, and went down smoothly but again, wasn't impressive. The Bazga (elderflower) was more interesting, with a strong floral aspect, a hint of sweetness, and a pleasing finish. My favorite though was the Biska (mistletoe), with a 30% ABV, with possessed more complex herbal notes, mild sweetness, and a smooth, satisfying taste. I suspect that these brands were more entry level Rakija, especially based on some of the much better examples I later tasted during my trip.

From Tkalčićeva Street, you can cross under this stone wall onto Opatovina Street, first passing through a corner of the Opatovina Park.

You'll then come to Veliki Tolk ("Tolkien's House") at 49 Opatovina, a pub with a Lord of the Rings theme. You can sit outside on their patio or take a seat inside the small pub.

This corner of the pub displays a variety of swords, axes and other weapons.

Much of the pub also displays and advertises various beers, ales, ciders and such.

For dinner Friday night, I chose to dine at a restaurant on Tkalčićeva Street, the Agava Restaurant, and I'll provide my full review tomorrow.

Have you ever explored Tkalčićeva Street?

Zagreb: From a Brief History to the Dolac Market (Part 1)

“…Zagreb was not a strange city at all. It has the warm and comfortable appearance of a town that has been well aired. People have been living there in physical, though not political, comfort for a thousand years.”
Black Lamb and Grey Falcon by Rebecca West

A flight from Boston to Amsterdam to Zagreb. Upon my arrival, on a Friday afternoon, I began my exploration of the Republic of Croatia in Zagreb, its capital. For Friday and part of Saturday, I was on my own, so I checked out places such as Tkalčićeva Street and the Dolac Market. During this short time, I could only check out a tiny portion of the city, but I very much enjoyed what I experienced and would love to return to further explore this fascinating city.

It's easy to walk around Zagreb, enjoying its architecture, restaurants, bars, shops, sculptures, and people. Though modern in many ways, it has its feet firmly in the past, giving a strong old-style ambiance. The people were warm and welcoming, and as most speak English, interactions are easy for tourists, though it wouldn't hurt to learn at least a few words in Croatian, such as hvala, which means "thank you."

The region surrounding Zagreb has been inhabited for thousands of years, including by Illyrians and Celts. The ancient Romans established the settlement of Andautonia, not far from the present site of Zagreb, and it lasted for about 400 years before being destroyed. During the 11th century, in 1094 A.D., the Hungarian King Ladislaus I, who also became the King of Croatia in 1091, established the diocese of Kaptol atop a hill, on the site of the modern-day Zagreb. This diocese soon became wealthy.

A cathedral was eventually constructed atop the hill, not being completed until 1217, though it was destroyed, with much of the rest of the town, by Mongol invaders in 1242. Fortunately, the Mongols soon learned of the death of Ogadai, their Great Khan, so they abandoned Kaptol and the area was quickly rebuilt, including the cathedral. The cathedral (pictured above) is now known as the Cathedral of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary, and is currently the tallest building in Zagreb.

An earthquake in 1880 cause significant damage to the cathedral but it was restored, and currently, additional restoration is occurring, as you can easily see above. My B&B was located just down the street from this cathedral so I walked by it numerous times. Plus, the spires can be seen from various other parts of the city.

In front of the cathedral is a tall column dedicated to the Virgin Mary, with a few angels at the base.

In 1242, King Bela IV, the King of Hungary and Croatia, approved the creation of a secular town, Gradac, on a hill near Kaptol. Many of its early settlers were foreign merchants and there were soon tensions between Kaptol and Gradac. The two settlements were separated from each other by the Medveščak stream, which was owned by Kaptol. However, Gradac used the water for its mills, causing problems with Kaptol. It's said that most of the battles between these two settlements occurred on a bridge over the stream which joined the two towns, which became known as Kravi Most, the Bloody Bridge. Around the 17th century, after about 200 years of Turkish invasions, Kaptol and Gradac chose to put their disagreements behind them and merge.

The stream was eventually covered over in 1898, but the name Kravi Most has been retained for the street which exists where the bridge was once located. Most tourists that pass by this street probably don't know the bloody origins of this street name.

“Dolac is the prettiest monument to food that Zagreb has. This old market means the same to gourmands as a cathedral means to the believers.”
--Zvonimir Milčec, famed Croatian journalist

Another piece of Zagreb history is the famed Dolac Market, a huge farmer's market that has existed for nearly 90 years, having opened on September 1, 1930. Zagreb had a prior market, called Harmica, but it was thought to be too small for the growing city. After checking out markets in other European cities, plans came together for the creation of the Dolac Market.

The market opens early in the morning and closes in the early afternoon, and is well worth checking out. I stopped here on a Saturday morning, arriving early, when they were still setting up. While they set up, the cafes surrounding the market were open so you could sip a coffee or tea while watching the vendors set up their stalls.

Many women run the various vendor stalls and they are known as kumice, which literally translates as "outdoor market selling women." Shoppers have their favorite kumice, establishing relationships so they can obtain the best produce and other goods. In 2006, a bronze statue, created by Stjepan Gračan and called Kumica Barica, was erected to honor these women. The name "Barica" was chosen by the citizens of Zagreb. The statue is located at the top of the stairway which leads to the open area of fruit and vegetable purveyors.

The market occupies four different areas, both inside and outside, each dedicated to specific products. There is a small, exterior flower market, located at the base of the stairway up to the fruit/vegetable market.

On the street level, there is a large interior market, primarily dedicated to meat, bakeries, and pasta vendors. There are lots of shops in this area and you could easily spend a couple hours wandering the various aisles.

Everything was very clean, and there was plenty of diversity of products, as well as plenty of duplication as well. That raises the question of where do you shop? For example, how do you choose which vendor, out of a couple dozen, to buy your steaks? It's obvious that people likely have their favorite vendors, though it seems you probably won't go wrong with almost any vendor.

The various bakeries provide many different breads and baked goods, and its easy to buy an item or two to eat as you walk around the rest of the market.

This is a Burek, a baked filled pastry, whose origins likely extend back to the Ottoman Empire and which is prepared in various countries, from the Balkans to the Mediterranean. Bureks in Croatia are most commonly filled with meat or cheese, and the pastry is light and flaky. The above is a meat burek and was a tasty breakfast treat. You can find Burek in many pastry shops across Croatia, from Zagreb to Dubrovnik.

At the top of the stairs, you'll find the large, open-air market for the stalls of fruits and vegetable vendors, as well as the cheese vendors and a number of souvenir stalls. Most of the stalls are covered by bright red umbrellas, called the Šestine Umbrella, which derive from the costume of the Šestine people, one of the oldest neighborhoods in Zagreb.

The fruits and veggies certainly looked extremely fresh and prices were relatively inexpensive based on what you might pay at a U.S. farmers market. As I was at the market very early, many vendors were still setting up, and within a couple hours, once everything was set, there were lots of customers wandering the aisles, checking out the produce. A number of restaurants shop at this market, providing fresh produce for their customers later that day.

Along one side of the market are a small number of cheese vendors, each stall offering a variety of different local cheeses. If I had more time, I would have spent it sampling the various compelling cheeses.

Croatians love coffee, and they can sit for hours at a street-side cafe, watching people pass by, chatting with friends, and just enjoying the weather. Surrounding the Dolac Market are several different cafes, where you can have some coffee, or another type of drink, and watch the people at the market. A cup of coffee may run you only $1.00-$1.50 U.S. and most of these spots don't offer any food. They simply provide drinks.

The Dolac Market is a fun and tasty way to spend a morning in Zagreb, plus it's a great place to people watch. And you can then spend the rest of the day exploring other sections of Zagreb, uncovering the other wonders of this Croatian capital.

"Zagreb-March 18: The police were recently called to eject ghosts from a private dwelling. A landlady on Gundulitcheva street complained that mischievous spirits were frightening her tenants.”
--St. Joseph News-Press/Gazette (MO), March 18, 1929

See also: 

Strolling Down Tkalčićeva Street (Part 2)
Agava Restaurant--Mediterranean & Croatian Specialties (Part 3)

Art & Shopping--Plus A New Fedora (Part 4)

Bornstein Wine Bar & Shop (Part 5)

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I am back again with a new edition of Thursday Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting, upcoming food & drink events.
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1) Encore Boston Harbor has announced its lineup for October Master Classes and wine dinners to be held at various venues throughout the resort. The experiences are designed to inspire guest’s creativity and provide expert instruction and interaction from the resort’s leading specialists.

Sunday, October 6: Gameday Classics at On Deck Burger Bar
Join Chef Jaqueline Bullio and plan the perfect tailgate or backyard gameday party. Guests will learn the art of finger food, gameday favorites and snacks through a hands-on culinary experience in the Rare Steakhouse Kitchen. Once the bites are complete, everyone will indulge and enjoy the Patriots vs. Redskins game at the On Deck Burger Bar VIP fireplace and lounge.
The class is held from 11:00 a.m. until 1 p.m. and a private game watch will follow for the 1 p.m. game. Tickets are $199.

Thursday, October 17: Fall Mixology at Garden Lounge
Join Resort Mixologist, Adam Dennis and members of our beverage team for an interactive tutorial on crafting the perfect cocktail. Explore techniques that have been developed by bartenders from all around the world for over the past century. This class will include a detailed explanation of the spirits and accentuating elements that are used to construct fall libations. Guests will have the opportunity to learn the best methods to shake, stir or blend cocktails through hands-on use of tools and one-on-one instruction.
The event starts at 7 p.m. and tickets are $99.

Friday, October 18: La Spinetta Wine Dinner at Sinatra
Join for a tour of Piedmont and experience the wines of La Spinetta. Special guest, Giorgio Rivetti will explain the flavor profiles and tasting notes while you indulge in a classic Italian truffle dinner, during this intimate evening. Taste some of La Spinetta’s best crus from a magnum and revel in the delightful combination of truffle and Nebbiolo.
The dinner starts at 6:00 p.m. and tickets are $245.

Ticket prices do not include taxes, fees or gratuity. Tickets can be purchased by contacting the Encore Boston Harbor concierge at 857-770-7070. All October Master Classes and wine dinners are 21 and over events.

2) On Monday, October 7, from 6pm-9pm, The Table at Season to Taste is proud to host its second annual Boston Chefs for Gun Safety farm social at Wright Locke Farm in Winchester. Chef Carl Dooley and Pastry Chef Mary Edinger are delighted to welcome guest chefs Cassie Piuma (Sarma), Lydia Reichert (Sycamore), Peter Ungár (Tasting Counter), David Bazirgan (Bambara), Brian Miller (Fat Hen) and Kristen Rummel (Honeycomb Creamery) for a night of food, drink and music on the farm.

This year, instead of a seated dinner, the evening will feature a tastings event with each chef at their own table, creating a delicious food and an interactive atmosphere. The evening will highlight guest speakers from Moms Demand Action Massachusetts and the Survivors Network.

“These chefs are our friends, and they will be here because they care. This is such an important cause. I have two young children at home and I am stunned at what is going on in society and in our schools. At The Table at Season To Taste it is part of our mission to make a difference in our community. My team deeply appreciates that our chef friends share our conviction. We have to do what we can, so we are hosting this event on October 7th at the beautiful Wright Locke Farm in Winchester, and I know it will be an amazing evening of food, drink, music and friendship” shares Dooley.

Tickets are $115, and to purchase tickets, please visit https://www.cambridgetable.com/events.