Restaurant Kadena: My Last Dinner In Croatia

It was my final evening in Croatia, and I was in the city of Split, site of the famed Diocletian's Palace. Where should I dine? How could I cap off such an amazing trip? Before I departed for Croatia, I did plenty of research and targeted one specific restaurant in Split which seemed like it would be a fitting ending, Restaurant Kadena. 

Located atop a hill, the restaurant overlooks the Zenta marina and beach, as well as some of the islands in the Adriatic, such as Brač and Hvar. It was one of a small number of Croatian restaurants that were included in the Michelin Guide, and has a relatively new chef and wine manager/sommelier. The chef, Damir Sertić, recently won an award for Best Artistic Chef in an international culinary competition in China, defeating about 500 other chefs. The wine manager/sommelier, Marko Rudez, worked for ten years in Brazil and Abu Dhabi, and now is at Kadena, helping to help promote Croatian wines.

This is the view from the dining room, and on a sunny day it would be spectacular. It is an elegant restaurant, though doesn't feel pretentious or stuffy. Though the view was a partial reason for wanting to dine here, the Menu and Wine list were the most compelling reasons for my final choice.

The Menu is large, with plenty of choices whether you prefer meat or seafood, although vegetarians won't find too many options. You'll find Starters (13 options from 45-120 kuna), such as Deer Prosciutto and Salmon Mousse; Soups & Essences (7 options from 25-45 kuna), such as John Dory Soup and Essence of Corn Soup; Salads & Bruschettas (7 options from 25-70 kuna), such as Prosciutto Bruschetta and Rocket Salad; Pasta & Risotto (6 options from 90-130 kuna), such as Seafood Risotto and Gnocchi with Beefsteak; Japanese Style (6 options from 15-150), such as Vietnamese-Style Tuna and Tataki Beef; Fish (14 options from 60-800 kuna), such as Smoked Seabass Fillet and Adriatic Calamari; and Meat (18 options from 115-850 kuna), such as Steak of Black Slavonian Pig, Smoked Lamb Steak, and Beefsteak in Truffle Sauce.

As a kuna is roughly equivalent to $0.15 U.S., most of these restaurant prices are very reasonable, especially considering the quality of the food. For example, most of the meat dishes would cost less than $35, except items like the Waygu beef. The Pasta & Risotto dishes are less than $15. Nigiri Sushi, Tuna and Salmon, costs $2.25 per piece, less expensive than most sushi spots in the U.S. The Seafood dishes tend to be the most expensive, though about half of the dishes cost under $30, and Lobster is the most expensive dish, costing about $120. So, you can certainly splurge at this restaurant if you so desire, but if you're on a budget, you'll find plenty of options too.

The Wine List is extensive, with mostly Croatian options, but you'll find a scattering of international wines as well, from countries such as France, Germany, Spain, New England, and Italy. You'll find about 10 wines by the glass (22-68 kuna), and even 1 Sake by the glass! The restaurant carries three Sakes, all from the same brewery, which of course appeals to me. However, if you're a tourist in Croatia and dine at Kadena, I strongly suggest you order Croatian wine, exploring its diversity.

I ordered a bottle of Vina Sladić Maraština (210 kuna), as I had acquired a taste for the Maraština/Rukatac grape. Sladić is a family winery, founded in 2000, located in North Dalmatia and focusing on indigenous grapes. I found this wine to be fresh and crisp, with bright citrus and pear notes, some minerality and a touch of herbs, especially on the finish. It was easy drinking, yet still possessed some complexity, and was definitely a good choice for seafood.

I began my dinner with the Black Cake (60 kuna), which is made with powder of homemade bacon, cuttlefish ink, olive oil, and mixed pepper, and is served with regular butter and butter with truffles. When I ordered it, I wasn't exactly sure what I'd receive and it ended up being like a couple of black bread rolls. It was soft on the inside, with a fascinating blend of savoriness, a hint of bacon and a touch of the sea, enhanced by the earthy truffle butter.

Next up, was the Scampi & Saffron Soup (45 kuna), a light bodied soup with a powerful shrimp scampi taste, with lots of garlic notes, and delightful notes of saffron. Each spoonful was bursting with rich flavors and I very much enjoyed this dish.

I tried a few pieces of Nigiri Sushi, Tuna & Salmon (15 kuna per piece), even though it's not traditional Croatia cuisine. The sushi was fresh, tender and quite large although the rice didn't hold together well.

The Spaghetti with Shrimps, Truffles & Hard Cheese Flambeed (100 kuna) possessed a heavy, flavorful and cheesy sauce accented by the earthy truffles. The tiny shrimp were tasty and the pasta was cooked just right, with a fine al dente texture to them.

The star of the dinner was the Buzara-style Mussels (1 kg/150 kuna). In Croatian, "buzara" basically translates as "stew" but it simple refers to a cooking style, for shellfish or crustaceans, that involves olive oil, wine, garlic, breadcrumbs and herbs. It is similar in many respects to the usual French steamed preparation for mussels. However, this was one of the best mussel preparations I've ever tasted, with such a rich and flavorful broth, enhancing the tender mussels. Each bite was pure gustatory pleasure, and I didn't want the dish to end. Fortunately, there were an ample supply of mussels.

Overall, this was an excellent way to end my time in Croatia. Service was professional and attentive, the cuisine was inventive and delicious, and the wine was delicious. Essentially, I got a five-course meal and a bottle of wine, and it cost (without tip) under $100 US, which I consider a good value based on the quality and quantity of the food and wine. The next morning, at around 6am, I flew out of the Split airport, headed back to Boston, loaded with so many great memories of my time in Croatia. And if I ever return to Split, I want Kadena's Buzara-style Mussels again!