--Boston Pilot, July 18, 1846
During the 19th century, the Sherry Cobbler was one of the most popular cocktails in the country, but its popularity in the current day has waned much so maybe it's due for a comeback. It's a relatively simple concoction, a mixture of Sherry, sugar, ice and a fruit garnish. It's commonly served in a tumbler or tall glass, and served with a straw, for ease of drinking due to all of the ice. During the summer, it's an especially refreshing drink so now is the time to stock up on supplies so you'll be ready when the weather warms up.
What's the origin of the Sherry Cobbler? Most sources claim that its origins are murky, that the inventor of the drink cannot be identified. That might be true, though I've found evidence of a person claiming to be its inventor, a person I haven't seen mentioned in any other history of the Sherry Cobbler. Even if the claim isn't true, it is a intriguing story. I'm also going to present some of the history of the Sherry Cobbler, primarily through the 19th century. Please note that this is also a work in progress, that I'll expand its history over time.
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According to a number of sources, the first known printed reference to a Sherry Cobbler occurred in 1809. A History of New York from the Beginning of the World to the End of the Dutch Dynasty (1809), by Washington Irving, was a satire, describing a couple hundred years of New York history. In one passage, it states, “... the roaring, roistering English colony of Maryland, or, as it was anciently written, Merryland; so called because the inhabitants, not having the fear of the Lord before their eyes, were prone to make merry and get fuddled with mint-julep and apple-toddy. They were, moreover, great horse-racers and cock-fighters, mighty wrestlers and jumpers, and enormous consumers of hoe-cake and bacon. They lay claim to be the first inventors of those recondite beverages, cock-tail, stone-fence, and sherry-cobbler, and to have discovered the gastronomical merits of terrapins, soft crabs, and canvas-back ducks.”We don't get many details about the Sherry Cobbler in this passage, except that it might have originated in Maryland. However, I also couldn't find any other source which claimed the Sherry Cobbler was invented in Maryland. And there wouldn't be another print reference to a Sherry Cobbler for almost thirty years. Why such a lengthy gap? Something was suspicious.
David Wondrich, the famed cocktail historian, recently clarified this mystery for me. He told me that through his extensive research into the various editions of Irving's book, he found that the reference to "Sherry Cobbler" was added in his Author's Revised Edition in 1848. I then went back to check on the earliest editions of Irving's book and Wondrich was correct, the term "Sherry-Cobbler" didn't exist in the original few editions.
So, instead of the Irving reference of 1809, the actual first known printed reference to a Cobbler was in 1837, though it wasn't a reference to a Sherry Cobbler. The New York Herald (NY), August 9, 1937, described a man's activities in the city, and at one point, he "sat in the shade with a friend, tried Madeira Cobler's, good drink, preferred juleps, drank till dinner..." Did the Madeira Cobler pre-date the Sherry Cobbler? Or was it but a variation of the Sherry Cobbler, where the main ingredient, Sherry, was substituted in this case with Madeira wine?
The next printed reference to the Cobbler was in the New York Morning Herald (NY), August 10, 1838, which noted, “Payne, of Park Row, has the coolest dining cellar in the city. His oysters, steaks, ham, cotelets, and soups are superb; his wines recherche; his cobblers inimitable; his ale not to be surpassed.” Again, no details were provided about the nature of the cobblers. Was it a Sherry Cobbler, or Madeira Cobbler?
Almost a month later, the New York Morning Herald (NY), September 6, 1838, noted, “A good brandy and sherry cobbler made by Payne, of Park Row, is as great a luxury as a glass of Braden’s delicious ice cream.” This seems to indicate that the prior reference was for Sherry Cobblers. Again, there's was no information about the composition of the Sherry cobbler but it received high praise.
I'll add a little information about Payne and the dining cellar. The New York Morning Herald (NY), October 8, 1838, mentioned, “We call the attention of all our friends and readers to the old Shakespeare cellar in Park Row, kept by Payne. It is well supplied with the best food and wines that are to be found in the city. The larder and cellar is equal to any and superior to most. It is quiet, well attended and well kept. All the literati and distinguished strangers of the city are to be met here. A gentleman entering the Shakespeare is sure to meet with none but gentlemen—is sure to be well supplied, and quickly too. It has private rooms, and an entrance in Ann street, and one in Park Row. We commend it to all residents and strangers.”
The first detailed reference to Sherry Cobblers was presented in The Diary of Jane Ellice, edited by Patricia Godsell (1975). The diary, written by Katherine Jane Ellice, a British diarist and artist, detailed her travels exploring New York and two diary entries referenced Sherry Cobblers. The first entry, Caldwell-Lake George, Friday, August 24, 1838, noted that after passing through the village of Ticonderoga, Jane took a steamer up Lake George to the town of Caldwell. She had a mint julip, and felt that it "would be very good without the mint.” However, she was much more enamored with the Sherry Cobbler.
She wrote, “Sherry Cobbler is delicious and easy of composition—a wine glass or more of Sherry, Sugar & Lemon Peel, put into a tumbler which is then filled up with ice shavings, which is done with a plane. Then pour it all from one glass to another for a minute or so and pronounce it (a la Yankee) ‘first rate.’" We see all the basic elements of the cocktail, though there wasn't a reference to drinking it from a straw. That might have been a simple omission, though we can't be positive.
In another entry, Friday, August 31, 1838, Jane was in New York City on a hot day. She wrote, “A large glass of ‘Sherry Cobbler’ somewhat revived us, but certainly the heat all day had been intense.” This is the first reference to the idea that Sherry Cobblers were refreshing on hot days, a theme which would continue throughout the history of this drink.
After this time, there would be numerous references to the Sherry Cobbler throughout the years, though many were brief and added little to our understanding of this cocktail. I'm not going to cite every reference, but only those who help to enhance our understanding, or which are especially interesting.
It's also interesting to note that The Baltimore Sun (MD), July 4, 1839, briefly printed, “Sherry cobblers are said to be a very fashionable drink in New Orleans. What can that be?” It seems that this Maryland reporter was unaware of the Sherry Cobbler.
A President drinking a Sherry Cobbler. The New York Herald (NY), July 10, 1839, wrote about “His Democratic Majesty” Martin Van Buren, the President at the time, touring through New York. At one point, the President stopped at the Stoppani’s Arcade Baths, where he “...drank a half pint imperial republican Sherry cobbler,..”
In Louisiana, the Times-Picayune (LA), August 8, 1839, mentioned, “We are not about to speak of the excellence of sherry cobblers, which, notwithstanding the way they are cracked up and tossed down, are nothing more nor less than an improved pig-and-whistle—a second edition of sangarees, or toddies with an addenda.”
One of the most poetic, and evocative, passages about the Sherry Cobbler was presented in The Southern Literary Messenger (Richmond, VA), vol.5, 1839. The article stated, “Now for a Sherry Cobbler! Old Bachelor as I am, and vagrant, too;--without tie or home—I suppose I may be allowed to give the ‘receipt’ for the greatest ‘liquorary’ invention of the day. How happens it that ‘twas not discovered before?--’Tis the most cooling, refreshing, luscious, unintoxicating liquid, that ever grew into ripeness under the warm, fanciful incubation of a thirsty soul. Who claims the conception I know not; but, man or woman, the author deserves well of his country for giving it to the people without the protection of copyright or patent. ‘Tis a fragmentary world of sweets in a little palace of glass.”
The article continued, with instructions on creating this cocktail, adhering to its poetic slant. “Powder your fine white sugar, or crystal candy, and sprinkle the mass through a sieve, over a tumbler of pounded ice—every particle of which is broken into lumps not larger than a pea. In another vessel, pour two wine glasses of pale gold sherry over the fine cut peelings of half a lemon—peelings which have suck’d into their pores sufficient acid from the ripened pulp, to make the pungent rind flavored like a China orange—and then, for a minute or so, suffer the spirit of the wine to extract the rich aroma. Next, dash the contents of one tumbler to the other, till fruit and fluid, ice and sugar, sweet and sour, warmth and frost, are mixed and married, by this delicate ‘runaway’ process, and the dew of their bridal-kiss coats the sides of the vessel with a creamy veil. Then—allowing the new married couples to cool from the first extatic moments of their swimming embrace,--you sip the delicious pair in the dreamy elysium of their ‘honeymoon!’ A true love letter to the Sherry Cobbler.
A North Bend Sherry Cobbler? The Boston Post (MA), September 9, 1840, briefly made reference to a North Bend Sherry Cobbler, and the Gloucester Telegraph (MA), November 4, 1840, expounded a little bit more, noting a visit to a Boston “drinking shop” where one of the available drinks was a North Bend Sherry Cobbler. Unfortunately, there were no details as to how this version might differ from the usual Sherry Cobbler.
The Mississippi Free Trader (MS), March 11, 1841, noted, “a piece of lemon peal out of a sherry cobbler which had fallen out on the floor.” Initially, it appears lemon peel was the most common fruit garnish for this cocktail, though later, other fruits might be substituted or added.
The Natchez Cutter (MS), April 7, 1841, reprinted the recipe from the previously mentioned Southern Literary Messenger article, and titled it under, Recipe for a Crack ‘Sherry Cobbler.’ The article added its own loving comment about the Sherry Cobbler, stating, “Here is one of the most brilliant efforts of modern genius. Read it and weep ye sinners, who have swallowed down barrels of raw liquor without getting one good taste out of it.”
A President drinking a Sherry Cobbler. The New York Herald (NY), July 10, 1839, wrote about “His Democratic Majesty” Martin Van Buren, the President at the time, touring through New York. At one point, the President stopped at the Stoppani’s Arcade Baths, where he “...drank a half pint imperial republican Sherry cobbler,..”
In Louisiana, the Times-Picayune (LA), August 8, 1839, mentioned, “We are not about to speak of the excellence of sherry cobblers, which, notwithstanding the way they are cracked up and tossed down, are nothing more nor less than an improved pig-and-whistle—a second edition of sangarees, or toddies with an addenda.”
One of the most poetic, and evocative, passages about the Sherry Cobbler was presented in The Southern Literary Messenger (Richmond, VA), vol.5, 1839. The article stated, “Now for a Sherry Cobbler! Old Bachelor as I am, and vagrant, too;--without tie or home—I suppose I may be allowed to give the ‘receipt’ for the greatest ‘liquorary’ invention of the day. How happens it that ‘twas not discovered before?--’Tis the most cooling, refreshing, luscious, unintoxicating liquid, that ever grew into ripeness under the warm, fanciful incubation of a thirsty soul. Who claims the conception I know not; but, man or woman, the author deserves well of his country for giving it to the people without the protection of copyright or patent. ‘Tis a fragmentary world of sweets in a little palace of glass.”
The article continued, with instructions on creating this cocktail, adhering to its poetic slant. “Powder your fine white sugar, or crystal candy, and sprinkle the mass through a sieve, over a tumbler of pounded ice—every particle of which is broken into lumps not larger than a pea. In another vessel, pour two wine glasses of pale gold sherry over the fine cut peelings of half a lemon—peelings which have suck’d into their pores sufficient acid from the ripened pulp, to make the pungent rind flavored like a China orange—and then, for a minute or so, suffer the spirit of the wine to extract the rich aroma. Next, dash the contents of one tumbler to the other, till fruit and fluid, ice and sugar, sweet and sour, warmth and frost, are mixed and married, by this delicate ‘runaway’ process, and the dew of their bridal-kiss coats the sides of the vessel with a creamy veil. Then—allowing the new married couples to cool from the first extatic moments of their swimming embrace,--you sip the delicious pair in the dreamy elysium of their ‘honeymoon!’ A true love letter to the Sherry Cobbler.
A North Bend Sherry Cobbler? The Boston Post (MA), September 9, 1840, briefly made reference to a North Bend Sherry Cobbler, and the Gloucester Telegraph (MA), November 4, 1840, expounded a little bit more, noting a visit to a Boston “drinking shop” where one of the available drinks was a North Bend Sherry Cobbler. Unfortunately, there were no details as to how this version might differ from the usual Sherry Cobbler.
The Mississippi Free Trader (MS), March 11, 1841, noted, “a piece of lemon peal out of a sherry cobbler which had fallen out on the floor.” Initially, it appears lemon peel was the most common fruit garnish for this cocktail, though later, other fruits might be substituted or added.
The Natchez Cutter (MS), April 7, 1841, reprinted the recipe from the previously mentioned Southern Literary Messenger article, and titled it under, Recipe for a Crack ‘Sherry Cobbler.’ The article added its own loving comment about the Sherry Cobbler, stating, “Here is one of the most brilliant efforts of modern genius. Read it and weep ye sinners, who have swallowed down barrels of raw liquor without getting one good taste out of it.”
In Tait's Edinburgh Magazine for 1841 (England), there was an article titled "Colonel Maxwell's Run Through the United States," which detailed his visit to the U.S. in August and September 1840, where he spent time in Boston and Washington. D.C. While in Boston, he enjoyed Mint Juleps and Sherry Cobler. Maxwell described the composition of the Mint Julep as "consisting of sundry layers of mint leaves, placed among chipped ice, as pure and brilliant as crystal; and sprinkled over with two tablespoons of powdered sugar, with a legere soupçon of brandy--the smallest possible glassful--to crown the whole."
As for the Sherry Cobler, "The only thing to be feared, lest the suspicion of the brandy should, by degrees, become a certainty: if you doubt your powers of self-control on this point, sherry coblers must be your resource. They are similar in their fabrication, but with two glasses of very old sherry, substituted for the more dangerous alcohol."
Positivity continued in the New York Atlas (NY), June 19, 1842, which mentioned, “Cobblers have been immortalized in modern times, by having their name given to one of the most exquisite drinks ever manufactured—the Sherry Cobbler.” A few months later, another article in the New York Atlas (NY), September 4, 1842, noted, “I took a sherry cobbler for the first time; it was delicious!”
There were a number of advertisements in New York Daily Herald (NY), which mentioned spots where you could find a Sherry Cobbler. In the March 17, 1843 issue, there was an ad for the Billiard Saloon, located at 5 Barclay Street, 3 doors below the American Hotel, which would offer Sherry Cobblers, among other drinks. The April 23, 1843 issue published an ad for the Washington Gardens, Hoboken, which offered “Sherry Cobblers, Mint Juleps and Punches made in the best style.”
From 1842-1844, The Life and Adventures of Martin Chuzzlewit, a novel by Charles Dickens, was serialized, and one of the chapters praised the Sherry Cobbler. First, it mentioned the Cobbler being created by one of the characters, “With which he produced a very large tumbler, piled up to the brim with little blocks of clear transparent ice, through which one or two slices of lemon, and a golden liquid of delicious appearance, appeared from the still depths below, to the living eye of the spectator.” Then, there was the first printed mention of a straw with the Sherry Cobbler, “...merely plunging a reed into the mixture—which caused a pleasant commotion among the pieces of ice—and signifying by an expressive gesture that it was to be pumped up through that agency by the enraptured drinker.”
Another character then experienced the Sherry Cobbler for the first time. “Martin took the glass, with an astonished look; applied his lips to the reed; and cast up his eyes once in ecstasy. He paused no more until the goblet was drained to the last drop.” He certainly enjoyed the cocktail. The book continued, “This wonderful invention, sir’ said Mark, tenderly patting the empty glass, ‘is called a cobbler. Sherry cobbler when you name it long; cobbler, when you name it short.”
However, Dicken's novel wasn't without controversy. When Dickens had visited the U.S., he had often been treated and feted as a very special guest, and some were upset that Dickens was rather negative about the country in his novel. New Yorkers were especially incensed. The Public Ledger (PA), July 25, 1843, mentioned that “The only thing in New York that Dickens finds it agreeable to compliment, in his last issue of absurdity and dullness, is a sherry cobbler.”
The Southern Patriot (SC), July 27, 1843, also stated, “The extracts made below from the last number of Martin Chuzzlewit contains just such a concentration of venom and spit as is significant of a vulgar and coarse man.” It continued, “But there was one thing in this country, which Mr. Dickens heartily approved, and which he describes with rapture.” What was that item? "The only thing your hero finds to praise, in two chapters on your city, is a Sherry Cobbler.”
Returning to the use of the straw, we now consider the use of a straw in a Sherry Cobbler to be essential. Was that always the case? It's difficult to say, though it seems straws had been used in this drink at least since the 1840s, and likely earlier. The True Sun (NY), April 8, 1844, mentioned, “Since the era of Sherry Cobblers, many, very many, have learned a new use of straw.”
What was a straw like at this time period? It certainly isn't what we use commonly use now, made from plastic or paper. A rye grass straw was the norm during much of the 19th century, especially as it was considered inexpensive and soft. Sometimes, and much more rarely, a glass tube was used as a straw, though that was likely a more expensive option.
The Small Grains (1920), by Mark Alfred Carleton, mentioned that the rye grass straw was "obtained from rye which is cultivated especially for the straw, and not the grain." It continued, discussion the production process. “After bleaching, the straws are assorted by hand, each individual stalk being examined, and the imperfect ones removed. “They are then cut, the five lower joints only being utilized for drinking purposes. The sheaths are then removed, and the straw washed and bound into bundles ready for the market.”
There were two significant issues with the use of this straw though. First, the liquid in a drink tended to cause the straw to disintegrate, leaving sediment in the bottom of the glass, and also eventually rendering it unusable. Second, the straw added a grassy flavor to the drink, which might not have been pleasant dependent on the type of drink. It's possible that some drinks, which used this straw, were created specifically to mask or overcome that grassy flavor. Maybe the sugar added sufficient sweetness to the Sherry Cobbler to offset the grassy taste.
In an article on Coney Island, the Commercial Advertiser (NY), August 10, 1843, noted that the "upper class" drank mint julep or sherry cobblers, which were “sucked through a straw in the most delicate manner imaginable.” In addition, it was mentioned that “Some of the emigrants from Great Britain are mightily taken with our sherry cobblers.”
A variety of Cobblers in Boston. The Ottawa Free Trader (IL), January 05, 1844, provided “a list of fancy drinks” on the “bill of fare of a Boston restaurant,” which went unnamed. What's interesting is that it lists several different types of Cobblers, including Sherry, Rochelle, Arrack, Peach, and Claret. The Cobbler was now apparently more of a category of drinks, evolving from just the Sherry Cobbler.
Positivity continued in the New York Atlas (NY), June 19, 1842, which mentioned, “Cobblers have been immortalized in modern times, by having their name given to one of the most exquisite drinks ever manufactured—the Sherry Cobbler.” A few months later, another article in the New York Atlas (NY), September 4, 1842, noted, “I took a sherry cobbler for the first time; it was delicious!”
There were a number of advertisements in New York Daily Herald (NY), which mentioned spots where you could find a Sherry Cobbler. In the March 17, 1843 issue, there was an ad for the Billiard Saloon, located at 5 Barclay Street, 3 doors below the American Hotel, which would offer Sherry Cobblers, among other drinks. The April 23, 1843 issue published an ad for the Washington Gardens, Hoboken, which offered “Sherry Cobblers, Mint Juleps and Punches made in the best style.”
From 1842-1844, The Life and Adventures of Martin Chuzzlewit, a novel by Charles Dickens, was serialized, and one of the chapters praised the Sherry Cobbler. First, it mentioned the Cobbler being created by one of the characters, “With which he produced a very large tumbler, piled up to the brim with little blocks of clear transparent ice, through which one or two slices of lemon, and a golden liquid of delicious appearance, appeared from the still depths below, to the living eye of the spectator.” Then, there was the first printed mention of a straw with the Sherry Cobbler, “...merely plunging a reed into the mixture—which caused a pleasant commotion among the pieces of ice—and signifying by an expressive gesture that it was to be pumped up through that agency by the enraptured drinker.”
Another character then experienced the Sherry Cobbler for the first time. “Martin took the glass, with an astonished look; applied his lips to the reed; and cast up his eyes once in ecstasy. He paused no more until the goblet was drained to the last drop.” He certainly enjoyed the cocktail. The book continued, “This wonderful invention, sir’ said Mark, tenderly patting the empty glass, ‘is called a cobbler. Sherry cobbler when you name it long; cobbler, when you name it short.”
However, Dicken's novel wasn't without controversy. When Dickens had visited the U.S., he had often been treated and feted as a very special guest, and some were upset that Dickens was rather negative about the country in his novel. New Yorkers were especially incensed. The Public Ledger (PA), July 25, 1843, mentioned that “The only thing in New York that Dickens finds it agreeable to compliment, in his last issue of absurdity and dullness, is a sherry cobbler.”
The Southern Patriot (SC), July 27, 1843, also stated, “The extracts made below from the last number of Martin Chuzzlewit contains just such a concentration of venom and spit as is significant of a vulgar and coarse man.” It continued, “But there was one thing in this country, which Mr. Dickens heartily approved, and which he describes with rapture.” What was that item? "The only thing your hero finds to praise, in two chapters on your city, is a Sherry Cobbler.”
Returning to the use of the straw, we now consider the use of a straw in a Sherry Cobbler to be essential. Was that always the case? It's difficult to say, though it seems straws had been used in this drink at least since the 1840s, and likely earlier. The True Sun (NY), April 8, 1844, mentioned, “Since the era of Sherry Cobblers, many, very many, have learned a new use of straw.”
What was a straw like at this time period? It certainly isn't what we use commonly use now, made from plastic or paper. A rye grass straw was the norm during much of the 19th century, especially as it was considered inexpensive and soft. Sometimes, and much more rarely, a glass tube was used as a straw, though that was likely a more expensive option.
The Small Grains (1920), by Mark Alfred Carleton, mentioned that the rye grass straw was "obtained from rye which is cultivated especially for the straw, and not the grain." It continued, discussion the production process. “After bleaching, the straws are assorted by hand, each individual stalk being examined, and the imperfect ones removed. “They are then cut, the five lower joints only being utilized for drinking purposes. The sheaths are then removed, and the straw washed and bound into bundles ready for the market.”
There were two significant issues with the use of this straw though. First, the liquid in a drink tended to cause the straw to disintegrate, leaving sediment in the bottom of the glass, and also eventually rendering it unusable. Second, the straw added a grassy flavor to the drink, which might not have been pleasant dependent on the type of drink. It's possible that some drinks, which used this straw, were created specifically to mask or overcome that grassy flavor. Maybe the sugar added sufficient sweetness to the Sherry Cobbler to offset the grassy taste.
In an article on Coney Island, the Commercial Advertiser (NY), August 10, 1843, noted that the "upper class" drank mint julep or sherry cobblers, which were “sucked through a straw in the most delicate manner imaginable.” In addition, it was mentioned that “Some of the emigrants from Great Britain are mightily taken with our sherry cobblers.”
The Liverpool Mercury (England), July 5, 1844, presented an advertisement for the Victoria Hotel in Liverpool. J. Berry, apparently a bartender, announced that he recently received "a large quantity of pure AMERICAN ICE" and would be serving various cocktails, including Sherry Coblers, Mint Juleps, Red Rovers, Gin Slings, and Stone Fences.
The price of a Sherry Cobbler. The Brooklyn Daily Eagle (NY), August 1, 1844, presented an ad for an upcoming Ball, noting the drinks available for sale. A Sherry Cobler was available for 12.5 cents, the same price as Brandy Punch, Milk Punch, Mint Julep and Egg Nog. A glass of Sherry was only 6.5 cents, the same as Madeira, Irish Whiskey, Gin, Port, Absinthe, Mineral Water, and Bottled Ales.
The Freeman's Journal & Daily Commercial Advertiser (Ireland), September 6, 1844, printed an ad from George Mitchell, who now offered Sherry Coblers at his establishment. The ad stated, "this delicious and Cooling Summer Draught, so much in use in America, can now be had at this Establishment. Also the celebrated AMERICAN ICE,..." So, Sherry Cobblers had already spread to England and Ireland by this point, less than ten years than the likely invention of this cocktail.
A fictional origin story of the Sherry Cobbler was offered in The Commercial Advertiser (NY), December 14, 1844, which also stated that “The great feature of city civilization is—a sherry cobbler.” In addition, the article continued, “…the name of him who invented the Sherry Cobbler is buried in oblivion. Yes, he who taught rude man to lay sparkling crystals of ice beneath delicious Sherry, and to flavor the liquid with sharp slices of lemon, and then to imbibe it, not by course Thracian draughts, but gently, lightly and plafully through a rustic straw, is totally unknown.” Their fictional origin tale seemed more tongue in cheek, with no effort to making it realistic.
The first mention of Otis Field, in New York City, I located was in a notice in the Morning Courier & New York Enquirer (NY), January 11, 1837, which was repeated in the March 13 and March 17 issues. It was noted that Otis could be found at a Billiards Saloon at 218 Broadway.
Otis wasn't mentioned again under 1842. The New York Daily Tribune, January 10, 1842, had an ad for Bassford’s Billiard Rooms, over the Climax Eating House, noting Otis Field could be found at Bassford's. He apparently worked there through at least April 1843.
Next, the New York Daily Herald (NY), June 8, 1845, published a notice that “Otis Field respectfully informs his friends and the public that he has arrived in the city and taken quarters at the United State Hotel, his entrance through the bar, or 196 Water street; where he has a number of Bassford’s improved Billiard Tables, on sale or for playing, and will be happy to have them tried. His bar is well stocked with materials for making Sherry Cobblers, White Lions, &c. &c.”
This was followed up in the New York Daily Herald (NY), December 31, 1845, noting that Bassford’s Rooms and billiard tables were undergoing a thorough repair and would be ready on New Year’s Eve. Otis Field would be there for the opening.
Interestingly, the New York Atlas (NY), January 11, 1846, noted that "Otis Field, Esq." was "known as the Napolean of caterers.” Was Otis now a lawyer? This is the only reference I found adding "Esquire" to his name.
These references about Otis seem rather innocuous but then the New York Atlas (NY), May 24, 1846, dropped its bombshell. It printed, “Blessed be the man who invented sherry cobblers and who do you think that man is? Why, Otis Field, to be sure, and ‘it aint anybody else.’ Reader, if you call at Bassford’s rooms, entrance 149 Fulton or 1 3/4 Ann sts., and drink a cobbler, made by Otis, and don’t say it is the very best you ever tasted, you need not pay for it; let it be charged to us; we are willing to risk that much.” Is this true? Did Otis create the Sherry Cobbler? It's certainly a fascinating allegation.
About a month later, the New York Atlas (NY), June 21, 1846, referred to Otis Field, manager of Bassford’s Billiard Rooms, and stated, “They all know and appreciate Field, and his delicious drinks. Sherry cobblers are now made in Paris a la Field.” Had his fame truly extended to France? I wasn't able to find any other reference to cobblers "made in Paris a la Field.”
Otis continued working at billiard saloons for many years. The New York Atlas (NY), July 1, 1849, noted that Otis was now working at the billiards saloon at the Irving Rooms, mentioning, “And, then such sherry cobblers as are made by Otis Field! They are really delightful! How is it? Can no other person get up such drinks?”
Sixteen years later, after the first claim that Otis invented the Sherry Cobbler, numerous newspapers printed the same story, another origin tale of Otis and Sherry Cobblers. The Daily Missouri Democrat (MO), February 1, 1862, mentioned, “The Detroit Tribune has discovered that the sherry cobbler was invented in that city forty years ago by an ex-cobbler named Otis Field who ‘mixed liquors’ in those days behind the bar of ‘Uncle Ben’ Woodworth’s Steamboat hotel.” If true, that would mean the cocktail was created during the early 1920s in Detroit. However, I haven't been able to find any supporting evidence for this assertion.
As reported in the Evening Post (NY), October 25, 1871, Otis Field, 67 years old, died of consumption after an illness of 5 months.
For now, Otis Field remains a potential candidate to be the inventor of the Sherry Cobbler, with a more compelling story than some of the other would-be contenders for that designation. More evidence would be needed to verify, but his case is strong, except that it seems more likely Otis invented it in New York City rather than Detroit. If he weren't the inventor, then maybe Otis was more of a promoter of the Sherry Cobbler, a leading advocate for this cocktail who helped spread its popularity in New York City.
The New York Atlas (NY), June 21, 1846, wrote about the Howard House, located at the corner of Broadway and Howard Streets. The article noted, “This popular establishment has recently undergone a thorough repair, making it the most splendid place in this country.” It was also mentioned that “...Jim, so long and well known at the Second Ward Hotel, has not forgotten how to make a sherry cobbler or a mint julep, for which he has ever been famous.”
Sherry Cobblers in England. Oxford Night Caps, A Collection of Receipts For Making Various Beverages Used in the University (4th edition enlarged, 1847) by R. Cook, stated that the “Sherry Cobbler has only been recently introduced into the University, and has become a great favorite among the Undergraduates.” It then provided a recipe for the cocktail. “Pound a small quantity of ice quite fine, by wrapping it in a coarse cloth, and beating it with a mallet or rolling pin. Half fill a large tumbler with this powdered ice. Add a teaspoonful and half of pounded sugar, two or three pieces of the outer rind of a lemon, and a wine glass and a half of sherry. (Throw in half a dozen strawberries, if in season.) Fill up with pounded ice. Mix by pouring rapidly from one tumbler to another several times. Drink through a straw.”
A danger from using a straw? It was also mentioned in this book that “This liquor, drawn into the mouth through a straw, has in more than one instance produced Vertigo.” In addition, it was interesting that another different fruit was used in this recipe, the addition of some seasonal strawberries, along with lemon peel.
The Golden Receipt Book (1848), published by James Thomas Pickburn, presented another recipe for the Sherry Cobler, noting, "The following is the genuine American recipe for making it"--Two wine-glassfuls of water; one glass of brandy or gin; one glass of sherry; sugar to taste; and a few drops of stone bitters. The rim of the tumbler should be rubbed with the juice of a slice of lemon. For iced sherry cobler, a lump of ice is dropped into the glass. The stone bitters, which is an important ingredient in the composition, is difficult to be procured." This is a different recipe, adding brandy or gin, as well as water.
California and Sherry Cobblers. The Daily Alta California (CA), July 30, 1850, noted “who can look back with pride to the days now past, when oysters and sherry cobblers were luxuries so expensive that they could only be indulged in on Saturday night.” Though this article didn't go into any explanation, it seems likely that sherry cobblers were initially expensive because it was difficult to acquire the ice needed for the drink. However, by 1850, ice was being shipped across the country, much of it from New England.
The Sacramento Transcript (CA), July 31, 1850, discussed the “Hawthorn Cottage.—This small but unique place of refreshment (on second street between I and J) is crowded nightly. Those Oyster stews —dont mention them, and those Ice creams, sherry coblers punches, &c., are not surpassed even by Thompson of New York.” It was also mentioned that, “We had the pleasure of testing at this place the first fresh pond ice direct from Boston.”
Sherry cobbler love. The Sacramento Daily Union (CA), July 1, 1853, published, “What is so agreeable between dances as a glass of iced sherry, deftly compounded with flagrant herbs, and piquant acids? Even if the luxury is a trifle in itself, a mere commonplace, still it affords pleasure and material for conversation— and to be deprived of it is a noticeable subtraction from one's enjoyment.”
Pineapples again. The Daily State Sentinel, (IN), July 24, 1854, made a brief reference to a “huge pitcher of pine apple sherry cobbler as cold as ice could make it.”
More about ice. The Times-Picayune (LA), October 1, 1855, printed, “We have again a good supply of ice from Boston, which was imported to Aspinwall and brought across the Isthmus. It sells for ten cents a pound, and is a very useful article here, particularly in the manufacture of a sherry cobbler.”
The diversity of the Cobbler! In what is said to be the first drinks book published in the U,.S., How To Mix Drinks: Or, the Bon-Vivant’s Companion (1862) by the famed Jerry Thomas, listed seven different variations of the Cobbler, including: #98--Sherry Cobbler, #99--Champagne Cobbler, #100--Catawba Cobbler, #101--Hock Cobbler, #102--Claret Cobbler, #103--Sauterne Cobbler, and #104—Whiskey Cobbler.
Later, the price of ice apparently rose. The Daily National Republican (D.C.), June 19, 1863, mentioned that prices in Richmond, Virginia were growing higher and higher so that “a sherry cobbler cannot be bought for less than $2.50, ice being so expensive a luxury.”
The Princes of Wales toured the U.S. and some claimed that it Americanized him in a number of ways. The Sacramento Daily Union (CA), December 25, 1860, described some of the ways he had become Americanized. picturing him at home, including that “A sherry cobbler, with its characteristic straws, is on the mantelpiece.”
The Daily Alta California (CA), November 9, 1863, reviewed a book, "The Portrait Gallery of Distinguished Bar-Keepers" by Jerry P. Thomas, who was formerly the principal bar-keeper of the Metropolitan Hotel, New York, and Occidental, San Francisco. The review stated, “But that "sherry cobbler," composed, as its name expresses, of sherry, gratefully liquidated with saccharine, or rock-candy and ice, ranks, as we are told by the author, in popularity next to the juleps. This, like nearly all the others, is to be imbibed through a straw. The exact dimensions of the bore of the straw is not given. Probably that is a matter left to the drinker, as some might possibly feel inclined for one as large as that of a Minnie rifle.”
Choose your drink based on the temperature. The Daily Alta California (CA), July 21, 1864, provided an interesting list of drinks to have at various temperature ranges. "The weather, an inexhaustible as well as irrepressible subject, has been intensely hot, and the can’t-get-away chaps who haven't the necessary tax to pay Salmon P., on their incomes, have been regulating their drinks and style of living and dressing altogether by the thermometer. From zero up to 30 degrees, New Yorkers stick to hot whiskey; from 30 to 60 degrees, Bourbon plain; from 60 to 70 degrees, gin cocktails; from 70 to 80, mint juleps; from 90 to 100, sherry cobblers; and from 100 upwards, claret punch and ice water. The latter is so cooling, you know, that it is esteemed a luxury, and not a universal beverage; while the ladies, sweet creatures, go it strong on sherbet (no kin to the General of that name,) and ices.”
So, when the temperature ranges from 90-100 degrees Fahrenheit, that's said to be the best time to enjoy a Sherry Cobbler.
The Boston Daily Advertiser (MA), January 12, 1866, reported on an "English cafe" in Paris which offers a drink called a "cheri-gobler," which is actually a Sherry Cobbler.
Sherry cobblers at the Paris Exposition. The Commercial Advertiser (NY), July 16, 1867, had an article about the U.S. presence at the Exposition. "Two-thirds of our fame at the Paris Exposition is based upon our beverages." The article then noted, "Sherry cobbler is composed of sherry, a little brandy, a little powdered sugar, some pulverized nutmeg, and a few small pieces of ice; the whole mixed in two cups like mint julep. It is also mostly drank also by means of a straw." This is the first time that either brandy or nutmeg was mentioned as an ingredient in this cocktail.
With more information on the Paris Exposition, the Harper’s New Monthly, November 1867, noted “For this is the American Restaurant, which has made a goodly number of francs. One day it opened 500 bottles of sherry for cobblers. It demands a franc for every drink, except the soda, …” The article didn't mention how many cobblers could be created from a bottle of sherry.
The Jewish Messenger, August 9, 1867, had a section of "Floating Facts," noting that "The favorite drink in the Paris saloons is Sherry Cobbler."
The Gold Hill Daily News (NV), August 21, 1868, mentioned "a pitcher of most deliciously iced, oranged, pineappled, and limed sherry cobbler" found at the Gold Hill Bank Exchange. It also states, "The sherry cobblers at the Exchange cannot be surpassed." Once again, pineapple was used, but also oranges and lime. There didn't seem to be any rules as to what types of fruit could be used in this drink.
Summer Beverages. The Times-Picayune (LA), July 9, 1873, described a number of summer beverages, noting the Sherry Cobbler was the most popular. It then described how they were made, "A teaspoonful of sugar, to which is added about two teaspoonfuls of water, and on this is poured the sherry, about a wine-glass full. Then some small pieces of lemon-peel are put in, and the glass filled with finely crushed ice, when the finishing touches of pine apple and nutmeg are made, and the work is done." There's that nutmeg once again.
There was an article on strawberries in the New York Tribune (NY), June 25, 1874, which noted, "To the sherry cobbler, the strawberry is considered a wholesome addition, .."
In the famous Bartender's Maunal (1882 edition) by Harry Johnson, there were listings for eight different Cobblers, including #43--Champagne Cobbler, #69--Rhine Wine Cobbler; #75--Sherry Cobbler, #77--California, Sherry Wine Cobbler, #113--California Wine Cobbler, #130--Port Wine Cobbler, #131--Sautern Cobbler, and the #176--Whiskey Cobbler. This is a similar list to what Jerry Thomas presented in 1862, but with the main addition of a Port Wine Cobbler.
And in the 1888 edition of the Bartender's Manual, Johnson added a comment about the Sherry Cobbler, noting ”This drink is without doubt the most popular beverage in the country, with ladies as well as with gentlemen. It is a very refreshing drink for old and young.”
A new straw arrives! The Semi-Weekly Interior Journal (KY), December 13, 1887, noted "The old time sherry cobbler straw is doomed, and its place is to be taken by a straw made of paper. The straw is constructed of a narrow strip of paper, wound as though wrapped around a pencil, the edges just lapping. The paper is secured with a preparation of gum." No more grassy flavored straws!
In the Arizona Republican (AZ), July 14, 1900, there was an article on “Popular Summer Drinks,” which noted, “Sherry cobbler is coming back into favor and according to a local Boniface who has been in the east recently, the cobbler is very popular there. It is made of sherry wine, soda, sugar and ice.”
What are your thoughts about the Sherry Cobbler?
(Revised/expanded as of 9/1/23)
Part 2: Early 20th Century
A fictional origin story of the Sherry Cobbler was offered in The Commercial Advertiser (NY), December 14, 1844, which also stated that “The great feature of city civilization is—a sherry cobbler.” In addition, the article continued, “…the name of him who invented the Sherry Cobbler is buried in oblivion. Yes, he who taught rude man to lay sparkling crystals of ice beneath delicious Sherry, and to flavor the liquid with sharp slices of lemon, and then to imbibe it, not by course Thracian draughts, but gently, lightly and plafully through a rustic straw, is totally unknown.” Their fictional origin tale seemed more tongue in cheek, with no effort to making it realistic.
************
A possible inventor of the Sherry Cobbler? There were newspaper references that alleged the creator of the Sherry Cobbler was Otis Field, a bartender and former cobbler. It was even alleged that the drink acquired its name as an homage to his former career as a cobbler. Though the information is intriguing, and compelling in some respects, there is insufficient evidence to verify the veracity of these claims.
Otis wasn't mentioned again under 1842. The New York Daily Tribune, January 10, 1842, had an ad for Bassford’s Billiard Rooms, over the Climax Eating House, noting Otis Field could be found at Bassford's. He apparently worked there through at least April 1843.
Next, the New York Daily Herald (NY), June 8, 1845, published a notice that “Otis Field respectfully informs his friends and the public that he has arrived in the city and taken quarters at the United State Hotel, his entrance through the bar, or 196 Water street; where he has a number of Bassford’s improved Billiard Tables, on sale or for playing, and will be happy to have them tried. His bar is well stocked with materials for making Sherry Cobblers, White Lions, &c. &c.”
This was followed up in the New York Daily Herald (NY), December 31, 1845, noting that Bassford’s Rooms and billiard tables were undergoing a thorough repair and would be ready on New Year’s Eve. Otis Field would be there for the opening.
Interestingly, the New York Atlas (NY), January 11, 1846, noted that "Otis Field, Esq." was "known as the Napolean of caterers.” Was Otis now a lawyer? This is the only reference I found adding "Esquire" to his name.
These references about Otis seem rather innocuous but then the New York Atlas (NY), May 24, 1846, dropped its bombshell. It printed, “Blessed be the man who invented sherry cobblers and who do you think that man is? Why, Otis Field, to be sure, and ‘it aint anybody else.’ Reader, if you call at Bassford’s rooms, entrance 149 Fulton or 1 3/4 Ann sts., and drink a cobbler, made by Otis, and don’t say it is the very best you ever tasted, you need not pay for it; let it be charged to us; we are willing to risk that much.” Is this true? Did Otis create the Sherry Cobbler? It's certainly a fascinating allegation.
About a month later, the New York Atlas (NY), June 21, 1846, referred to Otis Field, manager of Bassford’s Billiard Rooms, and stated, “They all know and appreciate Field, and his delicious drinks. Sherry cobblers are now made in Paris a la Field.” Had his fame truly extended to France? I wasn't able to find any other reference to cobblers "made in Paris a la Field.”
Otis continued working at billiard saloons for many years. The New York Atlas (NY), July 1, 1849, noted that Otis was now working at the billiards saloon at the Irving Rooms, mentioning, “And, then such sherry cobblers as are made by Otis Field! They are really delightful! How is it? Can no other person get up such drinks?”
Sixteen years later, after the first claim that Otis invented the Sherry Cobbler, numerous newspapers printed the same story, another origin tale of Otis and Sherry Cobblers. The Daily Missouri Democrat (MO), February 1, 1862, mentioned, “The Detroit Tribune has discovered that the sherry cobbler was invented in that city forty years ago by an ex-cobbler named Otis Field who ‘mixed liquors’ in those days behind the bar of ‘Uncle Ben’ Woodworth’s Steamboat hotel.” If true, that would mean the cocktail was created during the early 1920s in Detroit. However, I haven't been able to find any supporting evidence for this assertion.
As reported in the Evening Post (NY), October 25, 1871, Otis Field, 67 years old, died of consumption after an illness of 5 months.
For now, Otis Field remains a potential candidate to be the inventor of the Sherry Cobbler, with a more compelling story than some of the other would-be contenders for that designation. More evidence would be needed to verify, but his case is strong, except that it seems more likely Otis invented it in New York City rather than Detroit. If he weren't the inventor, then maybe Otis was more of a promoter of the Sherry Cobbler, a leading advocate for this cocktail who helped spread its popularity in New York City.
************
The Gloucester Journal (England), May 30, 1846, discussed an article in the Tate Edinburgh Magazine which mentioned sherry coblers. The Tate writer had visited Cincinnati, and it was very hot during his visit, so he enjoyed a number of refreshing cocktails. He noted, "a sherry cobler is a nectar fit for the gods." He then described how it was made. "Some pounded sugar, about two tablespoonsful, is out into a large tumbler, a liberal supply of ice, pure as crystal, two wine glasses of fine sherry, lemon peel cut, very thin, a large slice of pine apple at the top, and the whole violently shook up, or poured several, times from one tumbler to another, and allowed a minute or so to clear; a long reed is then stuck in the glass, and so you imbibe it: the charge is sixpence."
This was the first reference to another fruit added to the drink, a slice of pineapple along with the lemon peel. And pineapple would continue to be added to other Sherry Cobblers in the coming years.
Sherry Cobblers in England. Oxford Night Caps, A Collection of Receipts For Making Various Beverages Used in the University (4th edition enlarged, 1847) by R. Cook, stated that the “Sherry Cobbler has only been recently introduced into the University, and has become a great favorite among the Undergraduates.” It then provided a recipe for the cocktail. “Pound a small quantity of ice quite fine, by wrapping it in a coarse cloth, and beating it with a mallet or rolling pin. Half fill a large tumbler with this powdered ice. Add a teaspoonful and half of pounded sugar, two or three pieces of the outer rind of a lemon, and a wine glass and a half of sherry. (Throw in half a dozen strawberries, if in season.) Fill up with pounded ice. Mix by pouring rapidly from one tumbler to another several times. Drink through a straw.”
A danger from using a straw? It was also mentioned in this book that “This liquor, drawn into the mouth through a straw, has in more than one instance produced Vertigo.” In addition, it was interesting that another different fruit was used in this recipe, the addition of some seasonal strawberries, along with lemon peel.
The Golden Receipt Book (1848), published by James Thomas Pickburn, presented another recipe for the Sherry Cobler, noting, "The following is the genuine American recipe for making it"--Two wine-glassfuls of water; one glass of brandy or gin; one glass of sherry; sugar to taste; and a few drops of stone bitters. The rim of the tumbler should be rubbed with the juice of a slice of lemon. For iced sherry cobler, a lump of ice is dropped into the glass. The stone bitters, which is an important ingredient in the composition, is difficult to be procured." This is a different recipe, adding brandy or gin, as well as water.
California and Sherry Cobblers. The Daily Alta California (CA), July 30, 1850, noted “who can look back with pride to the days now past, when oysters and sherry cobblers were luxuries so expensive that they could only be indulged in on Saturday night.” Though this article didn't go into any explanation, it seems likely that sherry cobblers were initially expensive because it was difficult to acquire the ice needed for the drink. However, by 1850, ice was being shipped across the country, much of it from New England.
The Sacramento Transcript (CA), July 31, 1850, discussed the “Hawthorn Cottage.—This small but unique place of refreshment (on second street between I and J) is crowded nightly. Those Oyster stews —dont mention them, and those Ice creams, sherry coblers punches, &c., are not surpassed even by Thompson of New York.” It was also mentioned that, “We had the pleasure of testing at this place the first fresh pond ice direct from Boston.”
Sherry cobbler love. The Sacramento Daily Union (CA), July 1, 1853, published, “What is so agreeable between dances as a glass of iced sherry, deftly compounded with flagrant herbs, and piquant acids? Even if the luxury is a trifle in itself, a mere commonplace, still it affords pleasure and material for conversation— and to be deprived of it is a noticeable subtraction from one's enjoyment.”
Pineapples again. The Daily State Sentinel, (IN), July 24, 1854, made a brief reference to a “huge pitcher of pine apple sherry cobbler as cold as ice could make it.”
More about ice. The Times-Picayune (LA), October 1, 1855, printed, “We have again a good supply of ice from Boston, which was imported to Aspinwall and brought across the Isthmus. It sells for ten cents a pound, and is a very useful article here, particularly in the manufacture of a sherry cobbler.”
The diversity of the Cobbler! In what is said to be the first drinks book published in the U,.S., How To Mix Drinks: Or, the Bon-Vivant’s Companion (1862) by the famed Jerry Thomas, listed seven different variations of the Cobbler, including: #98--Sherry Cobbler, #99--Champagne Cobbler, #100--Catawba Cobbler, #101--Hock Cobbler, #102--Claret Cobbler, #103--Sauterne Cobbler, and #104—Whiskey Cobbler.
Later, the price of ice apparently rose. The Daily National Republican (D.C.), June 19, 1863, mentioned that prices in Richmond, Virginia were growing higher and higher so that “a sherry cobbler cannot be bought for less than $2.50, ice being so expensive a luxury.”
The Princes of Wales toured the U.S. and some claimed that it Americanized him in a number of ways. The Sacramento Daily Union (CA), December 25, 1860, described some of the ways he had become Americanized. picturing him at home, including that “A sherry cobbler, with its characteristic straws, is on the mantelpiece.”
The Daily Alta California (CA), November 9, 1863, reviewed a book, "The Portrait Gallery of Distinguished Bar-Keepers" by Jerry P. Thomas, who was formerly the principal bar-keeper of the Metropolitan Hotel, New York, and Occidental, San Francisco. The review stated, “But that "sherry cobbler," composed, as its name expresses, of sherry, gratefully liquidated with saccharine, or rock-candy and ice, ranks, as we are told by the author, in popularity next to the juleps. This, like nearly all the others, is to be imbibed through a straw. The exact dimensions of the bore of the straw is not given. Probably that is a matter left to the drinker, as some might possibly feel inclined for one as large as that of a Minnie rifle.”
Choose your drink based on the temperature. The Daily Alta California (CA), July 21, 1864, provided an interesting list of drinks to have at various temperature ranges. "The weather, an inexhaustible as well as irrepressible subject, has been intensely hot, and the can’t-get-away chaps who haven't the necessary tax to pay Salmon P., on their incomes, have been regulating their drinks and style of living and dressing altogether by the thermometer. From zero up to 30 degrees, New Yorkers stick to hot whiskey; from 30 to 60 degrees, Bourbon plain; from 60 to 70 degrees, gin cocktails; from 70 to 80, mint juleps; from 90 to 100, sherry cobblers; and from 100 upwards, claret punch and ice water. The latter is so cooling, you know, that it is esteemed a luxury, and not a universal beverage; while the ladies, sweet creatures, go it strong on sherbet (no kin to the General of that name,) and ices.”
So, when the temperature ranges from 90-100 degrees Fahrenheit, that's said to be the best time to enjoy a Sherry Cobbler.
The Boston Daily Advertiser (MA), January 12, 1866, reported on an "English cafe" in Paris which offers a drink called a "cheri-gobler," which is actually a Sherry Cobbler.
Sherry cobblers at the Paris Exposition. The Commercial Advertiser (NY), July 16, 1867, had an article about the U.S. presence at the Exposition. "Two-thirds of our fame at the Paris Exposition is based upon our beverages." The article then noted, "Sherry cobbler is composed of sherry, a little brandy, a little powdered sugar, some pulverized nutmeg, and a few small pieces of ice; the whole mixed in two cups like mint julep. It is also mostly drank also by means of a straw." This is the first time that either brandy or nutmeg was mentioned as an ingredient in this cocktail.
With more information on the Paris Exposition, the Harper’s New Monthly, November 1867, noted “For this is the American Restaurant, which has made a goodly number of francs. One day it opened 500 bottles of sherry for cobblers. It demands a franc for every drink, except the soda, …” The article didn't mention how many cobblers could be created from a bottle of sherry.
The Jewish Messenger, August 9, 1867, had a section of "Floating Facts," noting that "The favorite drink in the Paris saloons is Sherry Cobbler."
The Gold Hill Daily News (NV), August 21, 1868, mentioned "a pitcher of most deliciously iced, oranged, pineappled, and limed sherry cobbler" found at the Gold Hill Bank Exchange. It also states, "The sherry cobblers at the Exchange cannot be surpassed." Once again, pineapple was used, but also oranges and lime. There didn't seem to be any rules as to what types of fruit could be used in this drink.
Summer Beverages. The Times-Picayune (LA), July 9, 1873, described a number of summer beverages, noting the Sherry Cobbler was the most popular. It then described how they were made, "A teaspoonful of sugar, to which is added about two teaspoonfuls of water, and on this is poured the sherry, about a wine-glass full. Then some small pieces of lemon-peel are put in, and the glass filled with finely crushed ice, when the finishing touches of pine apple and nutmeg are made, and the work is done." There's that nutmeg once again.
There was an article on strawberries in the New York Tribune (NY), June 25, 1874, which noted, "To the sherry cobbler, the strawberry is considered a wholesome addition, .."
In the famous Bartender's Maunal (1882 edition) by Harry Johnson, there were listings for eight different Cobblers, including #43--Champagne Cobbler, #69--Rhine Wine Cobbler; #75--Sherry Cobbler, #77--California, Sherry Wine Cobbler, #113--California Wine Cobbler, #130--Port Wine Cobbler, #131--Sautern Cobbler, and the #176--Whiskey Cobbler. This is a similar list to what Jerry Thomas presented in 1862, but with the main addition of a Port Wine Cobbler.
And in the 1888 edition of the Bartender's Manual, Johnson added a comment about the Sherry Cobbler, noting ”This drink is without doubt the most popular beverage in the country, with ladies as well as with gentlemen. It is a very refreshing drink for old and young.”
A new straw arrives! The Semi-Weekly Interior Journal (KY), December 13, 1887, noted "The old time sherry cobbler straw is doomed, and its place is to be taken by a straw made of paper. The straw is constructed of a narrow strip of paper, wound as though wrapped around a pencil, the edges just lapping. The paper is secured with a preparation of gum." No more grassy flavored straws!
In the Arizona Republican (AZ), July 14, 1900, there was an article on “Popular Summer Drinks,” which noted, “Sherry cobbler is coming back into favor and according to a local Boniface who has been in the east recently, the cobbler is very popular there. It is made of sherry wine, soda, sugar and ice.”
What are your thoughts about the Sherry Cobbler?
(Revised/expanded as of 9/1/23)
Part 2: Early 20th Century
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