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Thursday, October 1, 2020

Fukucho "Seaside" Junmai Sparkling Sake: A Female Toji & Brewery Owner

Prior to the Meiji Era (1868-1912), in the Hiroshima Prefecture, Sake breweries were finding some difficulties in the brewing process.  During the Meiji Era, Sanzaburo Miura was said to be the first person to realize the problem, that the water in Hiroshima was very soft, low in mineral content. The brewers had been using techniques perfected for harder water, such as that in the region of Nada. Sanzaburo journeyed to Kyoto, which also had soft water, and learned new techniques, more appropriate for their region. He shared that knowledge with all the brewers of Hiroshima, and their Sake acquired a much higher quality. 

The Imada Shuzo, which was founded in 1868, in located in Akitsu in the Hiroshima Prefecture. Akitsu once had seven Sake breweries, but now there are currently only about three. The current brewery owner and Toji, master brewer, is Miho Imada, whose great-grandfather started the brewery.  Interestingly, Sanzaburo provided the brand name, Fukucho ("Forever fortune") for the brewery. It is rare for a woman to not only own a Sake brewery, but also act as its Toji. Her brewery is small, producing only a relatively tiny amount each year. They specialize in Ginjo Sake, in small batches, and very traditionally and naturally made. 

One of their products is the Fukucho "Seaside" Junmai Sparkling Sake ($33/500 ml), made with Nakate Shinsenbon rice that was polished down to 70%. This Sake underwent a secondary fermentation in the bottle, with no dosage, and they added a little white koji, to give it citrus flavors. This is because the seaside area of the Seto Interisland Sea is famous for lemons and limes so the Toji wanted the Sake to reflect those flavors. 

I found contradictory information concerning its Sake Mere Value (SMV) and Acidity. The SMV could be either -3 or -40, and the Acidity may be 3.0 or 6.0. There is agreement that it only as a 13% ABV. In general, the SMV is more indicative of a dry Sake, and the Acidity is high, at least two to three times the average amount. The Sake has a slightly cloudy color, although it is not a Nigori Sake.

This Sparkling Sake has a fruity nose, especially citrus notes, with a touch of the scent of fresh bread. On the palate, it is lightly bubbly and very dry, with a complex melange of flavors, especially lemon, lime, green apple, melon, and pear, a pleasing and well balanced fruit salad, accented by a mild rice taste. There is also a subtle briny aspect, reminding me of the sea. It's very crisp and fresh, a fine accompaniment to seafood, from oysters to lobster. This Sparkling Sake can be used merely to celebrate, to raise a toast, but it is also a fine pairing for a variety of cuisines, especially with its very high acidity. One of the better Sparkling Sakes I've tasted.

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