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Wednesday, May 12, 2021

Pizza History in the U.S. (Part 1)

When's the last time you ate pizza? I suspect that for many people, it's been no longer than a week or so since you last enjoyed a slice. Pizza, that simple blend of bread, cheese and sauce, is delicious! Plus, it is such a versatile food, available in a myriad of variations, dependent on your preferences. 

According to Statista, there are about 78,000 pizza restaurants in the U.S., generating about $46 Billion in sales each year. This is roughly twice the number of Chinese restaurants. California, with about 7300 pizza restaurants, has more than any other state, with New York coming in second place with about 5700 and Texas in third place with about 5200. Massachusetts, with about 2300 pizza restaurants, comes in 9th place.  

It seems likely that these numbers don't include every restaurant, bakery, grocery store, or other food spot that might sell pizza as a minor item, and doesn't qualify as a "pizza restaurant." So, pizza is available in far more than just the 78,000 pizza restaurants. 

There are also a significant number of different pizza styles, mostly regional ones, available in the U.S. And nearly anything can be added to a pizza as a topping, creating a vast diversity of pizza, from Breakfast pizza to Dessert pizza. I'm a huge pizza fan, and there have been days in the past when I ate pizza for breakfast, lunch and dinner.

Like many foods, the origins of pizza are murky, with numerous claimants stepping forward to allege that they were the initial creators. Pizza itself likely has its origins in ancient Greece or Rome, over 2000 years ago, when flatbreads were topped with olive oil, cheese, and fish. Tomatoes were native to the Americas and didn't arrive in Europe until the 16th century, although it initially had a bad reputation, as some Europeans believed they were poisonous. Around the 19th century, people in Naples began making pizza with tomatoes, creating Pizza Neapolitan.

It is thought that Pizza Neapolitan was introduced to the U.S. in the late 19th century by Italian immigrants. The origins of pizza in the U.S. are also murky although the most common origin tale is that the first pizzeria in the U.S. was established in 1905 by Gennaro Lombardi in New York City. However, Peter Regas has uncovered evidence to directly dispute this origin tale, pushing back the known history of pizza in the U.S.into the 19th century. Unfortunately, we've only seen bits of this new evidence as Peter is planning to release a book on his pizzeria research in the future.

I'm going to present a selected history of pizza, hitting some highlights, trying to showcase some firsts, mainly in the U.S.. This is a work in progress though, and will be expanded in the future based on additional research.

Let's begin with a newspaper article from London, which sounds like a strange place to start when discussing pizza in the U.S. However, this article is one of the earliest known in English that described Neapolitan pizza in some detail. It provides some fascinating details at a time when Neapolitan pizza was largely confined ti Italy. 

In The Morning Post (London), December 17, 1860, there was a lengthy section in an article, Politics & Society in Naples, about Neapolitan pizza. It stated, “Well, the pizza is a favourite Neapolitan delicacy, which is only made and eaten between sunset and two or three in the morning, and it must be baked in five minutes in the oven; at the very moment when it is ordered it is pulled out of the oven and served up piping hot, otherwise it is not worth a grano." The pizza was only available at night? No pizza for lunch or breakfast. 

The article continued, describing how it was made. "The pizza baker takes a ball of dough, kneads it, and spreads it out with the palm of his hand, giving it about half the thickness of a muffin, then pours over it mozzarella, which is nothing more than rich cream beaten almost like a cream cheese; then he adds grated cheese, herbs and tomato, puts the cake—which, made after this fashion, is termed the pizza—just for five minutes into the oven, and serves it up as hot as possible. The cheese and the cream are of course all melted and unite with the herbs and tomato. The outside crust must, in the case of a perfect pizza, possess a certain orthodox crispness." Simple toppings, cheese, tomatoes and herbs. 

And pizza was popular with all social classes of Naples. As the article noted, "Now, at this season of the year there is no person, high or low. From the first Neapolitan duke to the lowest lazzaroni, with whom it is not a primary article of faith to eat pizza. The pizza cake is your only social leveler, for in the pizza shops rich and poor harmoniously congregate; they are the only places where the members of the Neapolitan aristocracy—far haughtier than those in any other part of Italy—may be seen masticating their favourite delicacy side by side with their own coachmen, and valets, and barbers

A bit of significant criticism was added, "The pizza shops are about the filthiest in Naples, and whoever knows Naples will admit that is saying a good deal. They are generally in the meanest alleys and in the midst of the most disreputable quarters. No matter, at this season of the year, they are thronged all the same.” Would that make you want to dine at these pizzerias?

Some variations of Neapolitan pizza existed, although not everyone approved to the alterations. “There are other modes of preparing the pizza, by the substitution of freshly caught anchovies, for slices of sausage, or mushrooms for the cream and grated cheese; but the highest authorities on these points treat with disdain all such modern innovations, and protest that a pizza compounded after that fashion has no right to the name at all.” 

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Back to the U.S. During the first 40 years of the 20th century, most of the references, in American newspapers, to pizza and pizzerias were advertisements and legal notices. There were very few articles that explained or described the nature of pizza. As such, many Americans during this period probably knew little, if anything, about pizza unless they happened to live in an Italian neighborhood. Some of the earliest pizzerias weren't even mentioned in the newspapers until many years after their founding. Thus, it's difficult to determine that nature of the pizza that was served at some of these establishments.  

The earliest newspaper reference I found, concerning pizza, was in Boston Daily Globe, December 18, 1905. It was briefly noted that the Pizzeria Napolitina was located in New York City at 53 ½ Spring St. This was the address of the famed pizzeria of Gennaro Lombardo, which some claim was the first pizzeria in the U.S. 

A few years later, on the West Coast, the L’Italia (CA), September 18, 1908, published an advertisement for the Pizzeria Napolitana in San Francisco. So, pizza had already spread across the country but during the next thirty years, most of the new pizzerias would appear on the East Coast, from New York to Florida.  

According to Dining Out in Boston: A Culinary History, by James C. O'Connell, a North End bakery, Giuseppe Parziale’s, which opened in 1908, served pizza. 

During the next twenty years, a number of pizzerias would open, although obviously not all of them were mentioned in the newspapers. The Standard Union (Brooklyn, NY), January 11, 1917, mentioned Café Pizzeria while the Evening Bulletin (RI), August 29, 1919, noted Torino Pizzeria Restaurant in Lakewood. The Yonkers Statesman (Yonkers, NY), July 14, 1922, had an ad for the Modern Spaghetti House, which served “Italian Pizzeria Napolitanna.” 

In 1925, Frank Pepe opened a bakery in New Haven, Connecticut, and one of the items he sold was pizza. Then, in 1937, he moved his business next door and opened the famed Frank Pepe Pizza Napoletana.  The Times Union (NY), March 17, 1927, stated people were “all going over to ‘Minnee’ (Carmine Placente) the Pie-man’s Pizzeria” while the Delaware County Daily Times (PA), March 31, 1927, referenced Barbiero’s Pizzeria on 176 North Main Street.

The first instance of the use of the term "pizza pie" was in the Delaware County Daily Times (PA), January 12, 1926, in an ad for sale concerning, “oven fresh Pizza pie Mobile Units.” It seems some wanted mobile pizza ovens, possibly to set up at festivals, fairs, and other such events. 

The American Guardian (OK), May 24, 1929, was one  of the first newspapers to provid some clarity on the nature of pizza. It noted, “Pizzeria is a bakery which specializes in pizza, a pie served with anchovies and tomato sauce and dear to the Neapolitan palate.” So, it seems many pizzerias were considered bakeries, and not restaurants. The article also seems to indicate that Neapolitan pizza came with anchovies, an ingredient often mentioned with pizza during this period. 

The first pizzeria in Harlem opened in 1932. The New York Age (NY), January 23, 1932, discussed a new restaurant in Harlem, Napoli, a pizzeria and spaghetti house at 594 Lenox Avenue. A number of pizzerias during this time were accompanied by a spaghetti house. The menu listed “Pizza alla Napolitana, an Italian pie-like dish, the main elements being cheese and tomatoes, and furnishing a filling and enjoyable meal” 

The article continued, “It is pronounced ‘pitza,’ and be sure, when it is served the first time, to ask the waiter to show you how to eat it, for to enjoy it, you use your fingers.”  No need for a knife and fork. Although today, most people use their fingers to eat pizza, it was still an unfamiliar dish to many in the early 20th century, so they needed some guidance, and to understand they didn't need utensils to eat a slice of pizza. 

The first reference to an Italian Tomato Pie was in The Bristol Daily Courier (PA), June 22, 1933, in an ad for “La Pitza (Italian Tomato Pie)”and there was a later reference in the Central NJ Home News (NJ), November 10, 1933, mentioning "Pizza (Italian Tomato Pie)."

As for the Boston area, the first reference I found to a pizzeria was in the Boston Globe, October 22, 1934, in a legal notice where Paolo Pizzeria, at 112 Porter Street, was seeking a liquor license. I'll note that this address is just down the street from the famed Santarpio's. Pizza was being served at other places before 1934, but they didn't get mentioned in the early newspapers. 

For example, Santarpio's was initially a bakery, founded in 1903, and started selling pizza in 1933. The Boston Globe, January 31, 1922, reported that the owner, Frank Santarpio, was fined $5.00 for keeping his bakery open on Sunday. The Boston Globe, August 14, 1951, noted that Santarpio's was still a bakery at this point, located at 115 Chelsea Street, East Boston, but they made pizza as well as bread and other baked goods. Eventually, it would become solely a pizzeria. 

Regina Pizzeria, also a landmark in Boston, was established in 1926 by Luigi d’Auria, and is said to be the oldest pizzeria in Boston. For about twenty years, Regina Pizzeria received little attention, except for a shooting that occurred in 1934. The Boston Herald, December 31, 1934, reported that, “A free-for-all fight last night in the Pizzeria Regina restaurant at 15A Thacher street, said to have started when the proprietor, Luigi d’Auria of 64A Prince street, refused to serve a drink to a minor, resulted in the critical injury of one man and severe cuts and bruises to another.”

One man took a bullet in his lower back, while the other was hit on the head with a bottle. Mr. D’Auria was held for questioning, but as I didn't see additional articles about the incident, it's very possible that no charges were ever filed against D’Auria.

Another pizzeria was referenced in the Boston Globe, July 19, 1935, in a legal notice where the Pizza Garden, at 65 Northampton St., applied for a liquor license. 

The Boston Herald, November 9, 1935, printed an ad for Mario’s Italian Restaurant announcing their opening of the Catacomb Canteen, “the Only Downtown Place to Eat Pizza Baked Before You.” There were locations at 69 Church Street (rear of Statler Hotel) and 24 Shawmut Street. The November 17, issue, added that you should try "the tasty Italian delicacy ‘PIZZA’ served by ciociare." Ciociare refers to "girls dressed in gay peasant costumes."  The Boston Globe, December 18, 1935, added that their chef was Tony Iorio, and that there was a "window oven, where chef Tony Iorio prepares the famous Italian pizza.’

Back to New York. The Brooklyn Daily Eagle (NY), January 21, 1935, mentioned Pizzeria alla Napoletana, located at 147 W. 48th St. Pizza was described as “a dessert that dates back to the early Romans. Pizza requires a special type of oven with the flame coming down from the top, which explains why it is so hard to get in the majority of restaurants…” Pizza as a dessert? This wouldn't be the last time that it would be categorized as such. 

The article also noted, “It is made in a great big shallow dish almost as large as a tea tray. And is served in triangles, like slabs of pie.” It continued,  “Pizza, as properly prepared, is baked cheese and tomato. Another version consists of cheese, tomatoes, olives and anchovies all baked together.” Again, those anchovies! Finally, it stated, “Pizza is much like pie. Americans often order it by asking for pie. You can combine both techniques, by asking the waiter for ‘a pizza pie.

Beer and pizza? The Boston Globe, February 20, 1936, reported on a possible scandal at the Welfare Department in Quincy. George E. Morey, the ousted assistant welfare commissioner, had alleged that Commissioner Alvin S. Wight had held “high jinx parties,” with beer and pizza, in the Welfare Department offices and that “good looking women had received favored treatment.” In response, the women of the department sent an open letter, denying all of the allegations and demanding that Morey produce proof of his charges or apologize. Morey’s allegations were taken seriously, leading the City Council to initiate a fact finding investigation.

As a follow-up, the Boston Globe, June 16, 1936, reported that the subcommittee of the City Council had issued a report of their investigation.  The report confirmed that Morey’s claims were true, and that “beer and pizza parties” had been held after office hours. It also stated that a woman, whose identity was not revealed, was the “real boss” of the Welfare Department. These were explosive conclusions but the Council voted to send the matter back to the subcommittee for reconsideration and further study. Unfortunately, I didn't find any further references, so I'm unsure of the final conclusion of this matter.

The Hartford Courant (CT), June 10, 1936, mentioned that De Pasquale Bros. Pizzeria Bakery and Luncheonette, at 58 Market Street, had recently moved to this location. They had introduced Italian Pizza to Hartford about 5 years ago and now had a “new oven designed especially for us insures most efficient baking of Pizza.” 

The first American cookbook to feature a recipe for Neapolitan pizza was the Specialita Culinarie Italiane, 137 Tested Recipes of Famous Italian Foods, a fundraising cookbook published by the North Bennett Street Industrial School in Boston in 1936. The recipe, located in the Cakes & Desserts chapter,  was titled Neapolitan Pie, Pizza alla Napolitana. It called for raised dough, which could be purchased at any Italian bakery, and was supposed to be topped with a half-cup of tomatoes, a 1/4 pound of Scamozza cheese, olive oil, grated Parmesan cheese, salt and pepper. 

Maybe the first recipe for pizza in a U.S. newspaper was provided in the Boston Globe, January 2, 1937. The recipe stated you could buy bread dough at an Italian bakery or make your own. Then, you greased a baking sheet with olive oil and spread the dough on the sheet. Next, you placed pieces of anchovies on the dough, and then added a half-can of tomatoes, pepper, a sprinkling of savory, and top it all with olive oil. Curiously, no cheese was used in this recipe. 

Another Boston pizzeria. The Boston Globe, December 2, 1936, had a legal notice for Ralph’s Pizzeria, located at 980 Saratoga St., East Boston, seeking a liquor license. A year later, the Boston Globe, November 12, 1937, also had a legal notice, for a restaurant seeking a liquor license, Star Pizzeria at 331 Chelsea Street.

The Record (NJ), October 1, 1937, had the above advertisement for Jack’s Grill, a Bar-Pizzeria, located at 96 Vreeland Avenue, South Hackensack. Most of the previous pizzerias were bakeries or Italian restaurants, but there started to be taverns and bar also serving pizza. So, to some, pizza was seen as good bar food, a combination that continues to this day.

During this time period, New Jersey also addressed some particular legal quirks concerning the nature of pizzerias. The Record (NJ), January 10, 1939, reported that a legal question had arisen, whether female waitresses could be employed at a pizzeria on the basis it was a restaurant, or whether they were prohibited because pizzerias were taverns. Female waitresses were not permitted to work at taverns. D. Frederick Burnett, the State Alcoholic Beverage Control Commissioner, conducted a scholarly study of the pizzeria business, and then concluded that whether a pizzeria was a restaurant, tavern or ordinary bakeshop under State liquor law depended on the nature of the establishment. It would be judged on a case by case basis. 

Burnett wrote “In Naples, of course, everyone knows that a Pizzeria is a place where dough pies, embroidered with tomatoes, anchovies or mozzarella (a cheese indited to the kid goat), and embellished with peppers and garlic, are made and baked while you wait.” He continued, “Talking strictly Neapolitan, a pizzeria is a shop specializing in the baking of pizza to order. The fact that it is consumed before it cools, does not convert the shop into a restaurant. Rather it is a tribute to gastronomical judgment. Nor does its solubility in wine change a tavern either into a restaurant or a bake shop merely because it installs an oven to serve its patrons."

More pizza recipes. The Boston Herald, March 6, 1939, provided a recipe, which entailed you making your own dough. The pizza was topped by onion, Parmesan cheese, pepper, canned tomatoes, olive oil and anchovies. The Boston Globe, July 28, 1939, printed a recipe for Neapolitan pizza, and it simply asked for the use of bread dough. It was topped by crushed tomato pulp, salt, pepper, olive oil, anchovies, grated American cheese, chopped Italian sausage, and chopped sardines. Anchovies were a common element in many of these recipes.

On to Chicago! The Chicago Tribune (IL), October 17, 1939, stated, “The only place in Chicago where you can buy Italian pizza is at a little restaurant on Taylor street near Halstead. There you can watch Tom Granato, for sixteen years the proprietor of Chicago’s only pizzeria, concoct the delicacy and carefully deposit it in his big brick oven, slipping it off long handled shovels of well sandpapered wood onto the hot bricks. The foundation of pizza is a dough similar to that in English muffins. Tom rolls out a piece the size of a pie crust on his marble slab, cuts up fresh Italian cheese over it, covers it with tomato—the little Italian pear tomato—sprinkles olive oil over it, and deposits it in the brick oven for a few minutes. It is served in a tin pie plate, cut into four sections, and is eaten with the fingers.”

So, Tom’s Pizzeria Napolitana would have opened around 1923. And it's interesting that the newspaper article made it clear that pizza should be eaten with the fingers. This isn't the first article to mention this, and is indicative that many people were still unfamiliar with pizza, and probably would have used a fork and knife on it, rather than pick it up in their hands.  

More pizza in Chicago. The Chicago Tribune (IL), October 19, 1939, added the fact that,  “There’s another pizza place in Chicago besides Tom Granato’s. It’s Tuffano’s, located on Aberdeen, near Vernon Park place. However, pizzas are served here only on Saturday night.”

The Boston Globe, December 4, 1939, printed a legal notice that Barney’s Pizza, at 299 Havre Street, applied for a liquor license. 

All-you-can eat pizza? The Daily Record (NJ), February 8, 1940, printed an ad for Rex Pizzeria, stating that “Tomorrow Only. Children’s Day. All the Tomato Pie The Children Can Eat. 15 cents." This was the first reference to all-you-can eat pizza. 
 
The Boston Globe, December 10, 1940, printed a legal notice that Napoli Pizzeria, at 67 Prince Street, Street, applied for a liquor license.

What might have helped to promote Neapolitan pizza was a recipe that appeared in numerous newspapers, all across the country. The Sioux City Journal (Iowa), January 21, 1941, provided this recipe, and the article was also simultaneously published in many other newspapers, in Pennsylvania, Massachusetts, Michigan, Tennessee, Louisiana, Indiana, Texas, California, Idaho, Kentucky, Florida, Alabama, and Hawaii. As we can see, the recipe had a huge reach, and might have been the first opportunity for many to grasp the concept of pizza. 

The recipe called for you to make your own dough, The dough was then spread, to a 1/4 inch thickness, over a greased pie pan. The pizza was then topped with a cup of drained, canned tomatoes, thin slices of Mozzarella cheese, and some grated Parmesan cheese. A very simple pizza, but it at least promoted the idea of this delicious food. 

According to the Hartford Courant (CT), October 13, 1957, there were less than 100 pizza places in 1940. There would be a huge pizza boom during the next twenty years, so that in 1957, there were about 20,000 pizza places across the U.S. And during those years, pizza variations sprouted up everywhere, especially some regional variations. It was a boom time for pizza, helping to cement its place in the American palate. 

To Be Continued...

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