Luzhou Laojiao: Mainstreaming Baijiu With Cocktails

As I've said often, Baijiu, the famed Chinese spirit, is the Durian fruit of the spirits world, both having a reputation, primarily with non-Asians, of possessing a foul aroma and taste. However, both are misunderstood, and Baijiu itself comes in a variety of flavor profiles, including plenty which would appeal to almost any American consumer. 

More public education about Baijiu would be beneficial, to enlighten people about the wonders of Baijiu. To garner some background about Baijiu, you can read some of my introductory Baijiu articles here, as well as my two-part article of Historical Tidbits About Baijiu,  

Another way to enlighten people about Baijiu, to make it more mainstream, is through cocktails, to showcase its versatility and flexibility, to present its flavors in a manner which might be more appealing. Historically, the Chinese generally drank Baijiu straight but as times have changed, cocktails are beginning to be more common. Drinking straight Baijiu, especially considering its usual high alcohol content, is unlikely to garner many American fans, but they do love their cocktails.  

This past weekend, I received media samples of three Baijiu from the Luzhou Laojiao Distillery, and I decided to create some simple cocktails with it, the type of drinks that nearly anyone at home could make. If you have basic cocktail ingredients at home, then you can easily create tasty Baijiu cocktails. You can also see the potential of Baijiu in more complex cocktails, some of which can be found at a few local restaurants and bars, like Sumiao Hunan Kitchen.

Let's begin with a little background on the Luzhou Laojiao Distillery.

In 1425 A.D., it's claimed that Shi Jinzhang created the pit fermentation method, thus also creating the category of Strong-Aroma Baijiu. In this fermentation method, grain and qu (basically a starter culture) are planted a 10 foot deep mud pits, and then covered with mud. It will ferment there for about 70-80 days. Strong Aroma Baijiu is commonly fruity, spicy and pungent, acquiring more complexity and flavor through the bacteria and such within the mud pits where it's fermented. Baijiu production is a fascinating process, unique in numerous aspects. 

For nearly 450 years, the Luzhou Laojiao Distillery, located in at the junction of Sichuan Province, Yunnan Province, Guizhou Province and Chongqing municipality, has been producing Baijiu. Established in 1573 A.D., during the Wanli Period of the Ming Dynasty, Luzhou Laojiao is the oldest continually operating Baijiu distillery in the world. It's famed for its over 1,000 fermentation mud-pits, some which are over 100 years old, which are responsible for the quality of their Baijiu. It is one of the largest distilleries in China, yet it remains, in important ways, very traditional. 

The first of the three Baijiu I sampled was the Ming River Sichuan Baijiu ($37.99/750ml). This brand, which is produced by Luzhou Laojiao, was co-founded by Derek Sandhaus, a famed Baijiu expert who has written two excellent books about Baijiu, Drunk in China: Baijiu and the World's Oldest Drinking Culture and Baijiu: The Essential Guide to Chinese Spirits.

Ming River Sichuan Baijiu is made from locally harvested red sorghum grain and pure well water.  It is fermented in a traditional mudpit, using naturally harvested yeast, and then distilled in small batches in a pot still. It is then commonly aged for up to two years before the final blending. 

On the nose, the Baijiu is fruity and appealing, without any aromas which would turn off someone. It isn't the off-putting aroma of which some people assume all Baijiu possess. When you taste it, there's an intriguing melange of flavors, with prominent tropical fruit flavors, especially some pineapple, with an undercurrent of anise and pepper and some floral notes. It's 90 proof, and that is noticeable without being too hot. It possesses a lengthy finish, a mild sweetness, and there's an umami element as well. Well balanced and complex, this Baijiu is delicious on its own, but also is very versatile for cocktails. 

I created two cocktails with this Baijiu, and both were delicious and very different. First, I added 1 ounce of the Ming River, 2 ounces of Watermelon/Cucumber Cooler (from Trader Joe's), 1 ounce Club Soda, and Citrus Bitters. It was tasty and not too sweet, with the Baijiu flavors being complemented by the Watermelon and Cucumber. Baijiu & watermelon seem to be an excellent combination. The bitters helped to balance out the cocktail. I used Club Soda because I prefer it to the bitter edge of Tonic Water but you could easily use Tonic Water instead if that's your preference. 

I also created a Manhattan variation, using 2 ounces of Ming River, 1 ounce of Spanish Sweet Vermouth, and Aromatic Bitters. This is not a cocktail for the faint of heart because of all of the alcohol, but it was appealing, with a nice balance of savory, herbal and fruity notes. I think it also helped to show that Baijiu doesn't have to be just a substitute for white liquors in cocktails. As a whiskey substitute, it created its own unique profile, but with a sufficient similarity to the traditional Manhattan. 

The second Baijiu was the Luzhou Laojiao Zisha Daqu ($50/375ml), which is made with 80% red glutinous sorghum and 20% wheat, and is 104 proof. It comes in an ornate box, and the Baijiu itself is in a special purple pottery bottle which is also functional. This is essentially a "living" Baijiu, as the bottle is porous, allowing the Baijiu to continue to breathe and develop over time. 

On the nose, this Baijiu was more savory, with only mild fruity aromas. And on the palate, that savoriness took center stage, with mild underlying fruity, anise and peppery notes. The flavor profile was complex and fascinating, with rich umami and a lingering finish. Again, the taste of this Baijiu would appeal to many people, although its higher alcohol content would prevent many from consuming it on its own, although with the growing popularity of over-proof whiskey, that might be changing. 

With the Zisha Daqu, I chose to create a cocktail using 1 ounce of the Baijiu, 2 ounces of Super Fruit 7 juice (made from pomegranate, grape, strawberry, tart cherry, fig, mulberry and cranberry), 1 ounce of Club Soda, and Citrus Bitters. Again, this worked out as a tasty drink, a nice balance of the savory Baijiu with the fruity and tart juice. I'd be interested in trying this Baijiu to make a Bloody Mary. 

Finally, the Luzhou Laojiao Guajiao National Cellar 1573 (500ml $220) is a high-end and amazing Baijiu. This is the one which Derek Sandhaus has stated made him fall in love with Baijiu. This Baijiu, produced in a very traditional manner, is aged for at least 5 years in natural caves, and is 104 proof. The nose is complex, with a find blend of herbal and fruity notes, and on the palate it's equally complex. You'll find tropical and stone fruit flavors, complemented by herbal and peppery elements with a hint of anise. It is also silky smooth with a lengthy, pleasing finish, perfect for slowly sipping, enjoying each complex and delicious taste. This is probably the Baijiu which would be best enjoyed on its own, and should appeal to many people.  

However, I did make a cocktail from it as well, using 1 ounce of the Baijiu, 2 ounces of Lemonade, 1 ounce of Club Soda, and Ginger Bitters. This was probably also my favorite cocktail, refreshing and delicious, and perfect for the summer. 

In the near future, I'll probably experiment with more Baijiu cocktails, but I've already seen its potential, that it blends well with a variety of mixtures. And it is such cocktails which could help mainstream Baijiu, changing people's misconceptions about this fascinating spirit. Strong Aroma Baijiu is a great choice for cocktails, pairing well with a variety of ingredients, and I encourage you to conduct your own cocktail experiments at home.