Who invented the first Chinese buffet?
It's an intriguing question, and a quick online search will locate different answers. Some claim that the Joyce Chen Restaurant, which was located in Cambridge, invented the Chinese buffet around 1960. In Asian Dining Rules by Steven A. Shaw, there was a quote from Betty Xie, the editor in chief of Chinese Restaurant News magazine, that, “The first Chinese buffets started in Canada, and then they came to New York.” Through my own research, I haven’t seen sufficient evidence to support either of those origin tales.
I believe that the first Chinese buffet, served in a restaurant, was likely in California in 1949, although its ancestry extends back over 100 years.
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At least as early as 1837, you could find all-you-can-eat dinners. The Charleston Daily Courier (SC), June 13, 1837, noted that on some local steam ship lines, you could pay $12.50 for “all you can eat of roast beef, boiled mutton, &c. vegetables, and a few trifling et ceteras for dinner, and coffee, tea, &c. morning and night—“ However, the article added, “The truth is about one half of the passengers, upon an average, do not, in consequence of sea sickness, consume one dollars worth of eatables during the passage,..”
Plenty of other places would offer similar deals throughout the rest of the 19th century. As an example, in the Hartford Courant (CT), May 15, 1873, the Charter Oak Dining Rooms offered dinner for 50 cents, from 12pm-3pm, noting, “No small plates, but all you can eat.” So, the basic idea behind a Chinese buffet, of being able to have "all-you-can-eat," has a lengthy history in the U.S. The Chinese buffet certainly didn't invent this innovation.
Also during the later part of this century, the “smorgasbord” made its appearance. The Reading Times (PA), April 4, 1876, provided a good description in an article titled, Hearty Eating in Sweden. “The one national custom which I particularly remarked among the Swedes and Finlanders was their eating of what is called ‘smorgasbord,’ that is standing and partaking of a lunch before sitting down to the table. At the entrance of the dining-room in every hotel and on board every steamer is a side table furnished with bread, butter, sardines and other fish preserved in oil, several kinds of cold meat, nor forgetting a good supply of ‘knackebrod,’ a hard-baked, thin and brittle sort of brown bread, made I should think, of course oatmeal. At this table every one as he enters the dining room stops and takes merely an appetizing bite, but what I should call a full meal, which he is sure not to forget to moisten with a glass or two of raw brandy or other strong liquor, also upon the table; after this he immediately seats himself at the table and commences his regular meal.”
It was also noted, “..; the Swedish workman, I am told, indulges in five or six meals a day.” This is also a precursor to the buffets which would eventually sprout up in the U.S. The previous all-you-can-eat dinners were generally served at your table, dish by dish. There wasn’t a central table where all of the food was presented, like the smorgasbord. But this idea caught on in the U.S., although initially, it maintained its connection to Swedish cuisine.
For example, the Centralia Enterprise & Tribune (WI), April 2, 1898, noted that the Men’s Club of the Congregational Church would sponsor its annual Smorgasbord dinner. The Smorgasbord would make its appearance in numerous restaurants across the country during the first half of the 20th century as well.
As an aside, the first half of the 20th century, also saw many more "all-you-can-eat" restaurants, although again it was generally served at your table. A fascinating article on this phenomenon appeared in the Commerical Appeal (TN), June 21, 1931, in an article from Chicago. “We knew it all the time, but now it is announced officially that women are hungrier than men. According to the manager of a State Street department store, which recently inaugurated an ‘all you can eat’ for 65 cents policy, women shoppers outscored the men three to one in the amount of food they consumed under the blanket price plan. A check on the first two days showed that the women consumed at least twice as much food as the men.” The article also stated, “Three of four helpings of an entrée for a woman was not unusual...”
During the 1940s, there were a number of restaurants offering a Swedish smorgasbord, or something similar. The San Francisco Examiner (CA), August 30, 1941, presented an ad for Bit of Sweden restaurant, stating, “Try Smorgasbord with dinner $1.55. Smorgasbord only, $1.10” The Minneapolis Star (MN), Janaury 18, 1942, stated, “Smorgasbord, torsk and lutefisk for many years have been a part of Minneapolis hospitality,…”
The Miami Herald (FL), October 17, 1946, published a brief ad for Fassa Morocco, which served “Smorgasbord Dinners.” The Asbury Park Press (NJ), January 3, 1947, had an ad for The New Ross Fenton Farm, mentioning “All You Can Eat. Music and Dancing Included. Buffet Dinner Smorgasbord In The Best Swedish Style.”
It was also during the 1940s that the idea of Chinese buffets started to arise, although they were primarily held at social clubs, church socials, and special events. For example, the Santa Cruz Evening News (CA), February 8, 1940, noted, “The house committee at Pasatiempo has announced a Chinese buffet supper to be served tomorrow evening.” This was a popular idea during this decade and a diverse selection of groups across the country held such events.
Plenty of other places would offer similar deals throughout the rest of the 19th century. As an example, in the Hartford Courant (CT), May 15, 1873, the Charter Oak Dining Rooms offered dinner for 50 cents, from 12pm-3pm, noting, “No small plates, but all you can eat.” So, the basic idea behind a Chinese buffet, of being able to have "all-you-can-eat," has a lengthy history in the U.S. The Chinese buffet certainly didn't invent this innovation.
Also during the later part of this century, the “smorgasbord” made its appearance. The Reading Times (PA), April 4, 1876, provided a good description in an article titled, Hearty Eating in Sweden. “The one national custom which I particularly remarked among the Swedes and Finlanders was their eating of what is called ‘smorgasbord,’ that is standing and partaking of a lunch before sitting down to the table. At the entrance of the dining-room in every hotel and on board every steamer is a side table furnished with bread, butter, sardines and other fish preserved in oil, several kinds of cold meat, nor forgetting a good supply of ‘knackebrod,’ a hard-baked, thin and brittle sort of brown bread, made I should think, of course oatmeal. At this table every one as he enters the dining room stops and takes merely an appetizing bite, but what I should call a full meal, which he is sure not to forget to moisten with a glass or two of raw brandy or other strong liquor, also upon the table; after this he immediately seats himself at the table and commences his regular meal.”
It was also noted, “..; the Swedish workman, I am told, indulges in five or six meals a day.” This is also a precursor to the buffets which would eventually sprout up in the U.S. The previous all-you-can-eat dinners were generally served at your table, dish by dish. There wasn’t a central table where all of the food was presented, like the smorgasbord. But this idea caught on in the U.S., although initially, it maintained its connection to Swedish cuisine.
For example, the Centralia Enterprise & Tribune (WI), April 2, 1898, noted that the Men’s Club of the Congregational Church would sponsor its annual Smorgasbord dinner. The Smorgasbord would make its appearance in numerous restaurants across the country during the first half of the 20th century as well.
As an aside, the first half of the 20th century, also saw many more "all-you-can-eat" restaurants, although again it was generally served at your table. A fascinating article on this phenomenon appeared in the Commerical Appeal (TN), June 21, 1931, in an article from Chicago. “We knew it all the time, but now it is announced officially that women are hungrier than men. According to the manager of a State Street department store, which recently inaugurated an ‘all you can eat’ for 65 cents policy, women shoppers outscored the men three to one in the amount of food they consumed under the blanket price plan. A check on the first two days showed that the women consumed at least twice as much food as the men.” The article also stated, “Three of four helpings of an entrée for a woman was not unusual...”
During the 1940s, there were a number of restaurants offering a Swedish smorgasbord, or something similar. The San Francisco Examiner (CA), August 30, 1941, presented an ad for Bit of Sweden restaurant, stating, “Try Smorgasbord with dinner $1.55. Smorgasbord only, $1.10” The Minneapolis Star (MN), Janaury 18, 1942, stated, “Smorgasbord, torsk and lutefisk for many years have been a part of Minneapolis hospitality,…”
The Miami Herald (FL), October 17, 1946, published a brief ad for Fassa Morocco, which served “Smorgasbord Dinners.” The Asbury Park Press (NJ), January 3, 1947, had an ad for The New Ross Fenton Farm, mentioning “All You Can Eat. Music and Dancing Included. Buffet Dinner Smorgasbord In The Best Swedish Style.”
It was also during the 1940s that the idea of Chinese buffets started to arise, although they were primarily held at social clubs, church socials, and special events. For example, the Santa Cruz Evening News (CA), February 8, 1940, noted, “The house committee at Pasatiempo has announced a Chinese buffet supper to be served tomorrow evening.” This was a popular idea during this decade and a diverse selection of groups across the country held such events.
Restaurants providing a Chinese buffet would come later, so it's the case that their origins also began with these events held at social clubs and others. These events helped to persuade consumers of the value of Chinese buffets, helping to form a customer base for when restaurants finally opened them.
A Chinese smorgasbord! The Akron Beacon Journal (OH), November 16, 1948, presented the first mention of a "Chinese smorgasbord," noting the, “Akron Order of Rainbow and DeMolay members are planning an unusual type of covered dish dinner. It is called ‘Chinese Smorgasbord and Sweater Hop’ and will be held Friday…”
A Chinese smorgasbord! The Akron Beacon Journal (OH), November 16, 1948, presented the first mention of a "Chinese smorgasbord," noting the, “Akron Order of Rainbow and DeMolay members are planning an unusual type of covered dish dinner. It is called ‘Chinese Smorgasbord and Sweater Hop’ and will be held Friday…”
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Allegedly, the first restaurant that offered an all-you-can-eat buffet was in the El Rancho Vegas Casino in 1946. It’s claimed that Herbert "Herb" Cobb McDonald, a publicity and entertainment manager, inspired the idea of the buffet. The earliest newspaper reference I found to such a buffet was from 1949. The Pittsburgh Press (PA), December 11, 1949, stated that the Hotel El Rancho Vegas offered a “chuck-wagon breakfast,” on the house, from 3:45am-7:30am. At this time, that buffet was only available for breakfast.
According to The Tribune (PA), May 2, 1953, “The chuckwagon (in the swankier gambling places) is the old-fashioned free lunch in high hat, white tie and tails. For $1.50 you may fill your plate with samples of everything on the menu and keep coming back all night for the same buck-fifty.”
Next, the Las Vegas Review-Journal (NV), July 17, 1955, presented an advertisement for the El Rancho Vegas, offering the Buckaroo Buffet, from 11:30am-2pm for $1.00. So, the casino had now made the buffet available for lunch, and there wasn't a mention of any chuck-wagon breakfast.
According to The Tribune (PA), May 2, 1953, “The chuckwagon (in the swankier gambling places) is the old-fashioned free lunch in high hat, white tie and tails. For $1.50 you may fill your plate with samples of everything on the menu and keep coming back all night for the same buck-fifty.”
In July 1956, the lunch period was extend from 11am-5:30pm and Buckaroo Chuck was also offered for dinner and late-night, from 6pm-4am, also for $1.00. It’s important to mention that none of these early articles credited McDonald with originating the buffet, and those claims wouldn’t come until many years later.
However, someone else received credit for inventing the buffet during this period. The Okmulgee Daily Times (OK), August 13, 1951, reported that Chef Arne Hansen Rom, of the Railroad Pass Casino, introduced chuck wagon food to Las Vegas. This was supported by the Las Vegas Review Journal (NV), January 21, 1952, which printed, “Chef Rom, who first introduced the ‘chuckwagon’ buffet to Las Vegas, is well known among local gourmands.”
For more details, the Las Vegas Review-Journal, March 1, 1951, had mentioned that Chef Arne Rom was back in charge of the dining room at the Railroad Pass Casino, having recently purchased it. For the prior five months, Rom had operated the dining room at the Hotel Nevada. Before that, he spent two years at the Railroad Pass and one year operating the El Rancho Vegas Dining room.
So, it’s possible that Chef Arne Rom invented the buffet while he was working at the El Rancho Vegas, although Herbert McDonald might have claimed credit for it, especially considering he was involved in the publicity business. After its introduction into Las Vegas, numerous other Vegas hotels and restaurants started offering their own buffets.
As for a Chinese buffet, the honors for its invention may go to Peter Chang, of Chang’s Restaurant, in Los Angeles in 1949. The Los Angeles Evening Citizen News (CA), December 10, 1949, published an ad for Chang’s Restaurant, located at 8730 Sunset, which noted, “Chinese Buffet. First Served in U.S. Over 20 Delicious Selections.”
More details were provided in the Mirror News (CA), January 3, 1950. First, the article mentioned that Peter Chang, a former banker and his wife, a leader of the China Womens’ Association and a prominent social worker, were recent arrivals from China. They brought their household chef, Ah Poo, with them.
Then, it was noted that the buffet at Chang’s Restaurant, which cost $2.85, started with soup and fried rice, and made available a choice of 20 entrees. “There is a rare chicken cooked in oyster sauce and whisky, which is a delight, if you are looking for the really unusual. You can have roasted fish, shrimp rolled in bacon, almond duck, almond chicken, soybean cake, fried dried Chinese strong bans, Shanghai style omelette, pineapple beef, sweet and sour spare ribs, Chentu tomatoes with fish and onions, and Peking style noodles with beef.” You could also find Chinkiang Lion Head, a meatball. This wasn't chop suey and chow mein.
The Daily News (CA), January 18, 1950, presented a brief notice, “A Chinese restaurant, Chang’s, on the Sunset Strip, serves ‘Chinese Smorgasbord.” This notice would be repeated in newspapers all across the country, exposing many Americans to the idea of a Chinese buffet. It certainly may have given inspiration to other Chinese restaurants to start their own buffets as well.
More information on Peter Chang was provided in the Daily News (CA), February 7, 1950. Food was always a hobby for Peter and Jean, his wife encouraged him to open a restaurant in the U.S. It was also mentioned that the Changs “were able to liberate our own family chef, Ah Woo, from Shanghai, and he is on charge of our kitchen.” The article continued, “Ah Woo is the master of a thousand ancient and modern dishes of China. We are serving for the first time in American the delicacies of the upper classes of China, the exquisite dishes of Shanghai, Soochow, Nanking, Pekin and Chungking.” Finally, the article mentioned, “They serve a Chinese smorgasbord, which includes 20 different dishes, with no two dishes being served the same week."
And more info was detailed in the Daily News (CA), April 1, 1950. Peter Chang, age 42, was an ex-millionaire and former bank president. In Shanghai, he had been a big celebrity, "sort of a Chinese Orson Welles in the financial world." By the time he was 37 years old, he was the president of 2 banks and had earned $1 Million. In addition, he was a bigwig in the Nationalist government and owned a textile mill.
For more details, the Las Vegas Review-Journal, March 1, 1951, had mentioned that Chef Arne Rom was back in charge of the dining room at the Railroad Pass Casino, having recently purchased it. For the prior five months, Rom had operated the dining room at the Hotel Nevada. Before that, he spent two years at the Railroad Pass and one year operating the El Rancho Vegas Dining room.
So, it’s possible that Chef Arne Rom invented the buffet while he was working at the El Rancho Vegas, although Herbert McDonald might have claimed credit for it, especially considering he was involved in the publicity business. After its introduction into Las Vegas, numerous other Vegas hotels and restaurants started offering their own buffets.
More details were provided in the Mirror News (CA), January 3, 1950. First, the article mentioned that Peter Chang, a former banker and his wife, a leader of the China Womens’ Association and a prominent social worker, were recent arrivals from China. They brought their household chef, Ah Poo, with them.
Then, it was noted that the buffet at Chang’s Restaurant, which cost $2.85, started with soup and fried rice, and made available a choice of 20 entrees. “There is a rare chicken cooked in oyster sauce and whisky, which is a delight, if you are looking for the really unusual. You can have roasted fish, shrimp rolled in bacon, almond duck, almond chicken, soybean cake, fried dried Chinese strong bans, Shanghai style omelette, pineapple beef, sweet and sour spare ribs, Chentu tomatoes with fish and onions, and Peking style noodles with beef.” You could also find Chinkiang Lion Head, a meatball. This wasn't chop suey and chow mein.
More information on Peter Chang was provided in the Daily News (CA), February 7, 1950. Food was always a hobby for Peter and Jean, his wife encouraged him to open a restaurant in the U.S. It was also mentioned that the Changs “were able to liberate our own family chef, Ah Woo, from Shanghai, and he is on charge of our kitchen.” The article continued, “Ah Woo is the master of a thousand ancient and modern dishes of China. We are serving for the first time in American the delicacies of the upper classes of China, the exquisite dishes of Shanghai, Soochow, Nanking, Pekin and Chungking.” Finally, the article mentioned, “They serve a Chinese smorgasbord, which includes 20 different dishes, with no two dishes being served the same week."
And more info was detailed in the Daily News (CA), April 1, 1950. Peter Chang, age 42, was an ex-millionaire and former bank president. In Shanghai, he had been a big celebrity, "sort of a Chinese Orson Welles in the financial world." By the time he was 37 years old, he was the president of 2 banks and had earned $1 Million. In addition, he was a bigwig in the Nationalist government and owned a textile mill.
However in 1948, when the Chinese communists came, Peter had to flee China for the U.S. Unfortunately, most of his money remained in China, his property confiscated, and the Changs had to start over, choosing to open a Chinese restaurant on the Sunset Strip. Peter told the newspaper that when the Communists left, he would “...move in as the movie czar of all China.” He planned to build theaters throughout China, get Chinese rights to all the old Hollywood films, and make his own movies.
Unfortunately, there was a lack of continued references to this restaurant, so it's unknown how long the restaurant lasted in Los Angeles.
Another restaurant with a Chinese Smorgasbord! The New Tribune (WA), December 30, 1950, published an ad for the China Pheasant Club, noting “Chinese Smorgasbord each Sunday, 6-8pm. All The Food You Can Eat For A Dollar." It was cheaper than the $2.85 buffet at Chang's Restaurant.
The Times Colonist (Vancouver, B.C.), June 23, 1951, had an ad for Mandarin Chinese Food, with a Chinese Smorgasbord, stating "It's New--It's Different--It's Good!" It cost $1.50 per person, but seemed to be a more a limited menu.
The News Tribune (WA), October 4, 1952, printed an ad for the Bali Hai, which offered a Chinese Smorgasbord as a Sunday Special, "All You Can Eat $1.50."
More restaurants across the country would start offering a "Chinese Smorgasbord." The Chicago Tribune (IL), January 11, 1953, had an ad for Tom Brown’s restaurant, which offered a Chinese Smorgasbord on Wednesdays.
The Brooklyn Daily Eagle (NY), June 15, 1954, discussed Joe Kuscher, the owner of the Lincoln Terrace Tavern. “Wednesday night is ‘Chinese Smorgasbord Night,’ featuring chow mein, egg roll, egg foo young, fried rice, noodles, and all the trimmings.” In addition, “Every Monday and Wednesday Joe throws a smorgasbord party in his tavern, absolutely free, with only one stipulation—that every patron who partakes of the luscious spread must donate at least a nickel to the Cancer Fund.”
The Miami News (FL), July 3, 1955, printed an ad for the Fu Manchu restaurant, which served Chinese Smorgasbord. The Sioux City Journal (IO), July 26, 1956, had an ad for Bamboo Inn Café, which offered a Chinese smorgasbord dinner every Thursday, from 5:30-8:30pm. The Daily News (NY), September 7, 1956, noted, “The Night Cap tavern at 570 Flatbush Ave., Brooklyn, offers ‘Chinese Smorgasbord’ Every Wednesday Night.”
Finally, we return to the Boston area. The Boston Globe, March 30, 1960, published a brief ad for Joyce Chen, which noted its “Original Chinese Buffet” for 99 cents, for lunch and dinner. Joyce Chen opened her first restaurant in Cambridge in 1958, and there would be claims that she invented the Chinese buffet, but as we have already seen, they existed before Joyce Chen's first restaurant opened so she couldn't have invented it. Joyce Chen's Chinese buffet may have been the first to exist in the Boston area, but it certainly wasn't the first in the U.S.
More restaurants across the country would start offering a "Chinese Smorgasbord." The Chicago Tribune (IL), January 11, 1953, had an ad for Tom Brown’s restaurant, which offered a Chinese Smorgasbord on Wednesdays.
The Brooklyn Daily Eagle (NY), June 15, 1954, discussed Joe Kuscher, the owner of the Lincoln Terrace Tavern. “Wednesday night is ‘Chinese Smorgasbord Night,’ featuring chow mein, egg roll, egg foo young, fried rice, noodles, and all the trimmings.” In addition, “Every Monday and Wednesday Joe throws a smorgasbord party in his tavern, absolutely free, with only one stipulation—that every patron who partakes of the luscious spread must donate at least a nickel to the Cancer Fund.”
The Miami News (FL), July 3, 1955, printed an ad for the Fu Manchu restaurant, which served Chinese Smorgasbord. The Sioux City Journal (IO), July 26, 1956, had an ad for Bamboo Inn Café, which offered a Chinese smorgasbord dinner every Thursday, from 5:30-8:30pm. The Daily News (NY), September 7, 1956, noted, “The Night Cap tavern at 570 Flatbush Ave., Brooklyn, offers ‘Chinese Smorgasbord’ Every Wednesday Night.”
A number of different threads, from "all-you-can-eat" restaurants to the Swedish smorgasbord, helped to inspire the Chinese buffet. The basic idea of a Chinese buffet also caught on as special events held by numerous social and professional groups before it appeared in any restaurant. In 1949, Peter Chang's Restaurant, in Los Angeles, was likely the first restaurant to offer a Chinese buffet. And it didn't take long for other Chinese restaurants to do the same.
I suspect Chang's "fried dried Chinese strong bans" were actually "dry-fried Chinese string beans"... or I hope so.
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