--Great Falls Tribune (MN), February 8, 1902
The "classic" club sandwich, sometimes referred to as the clubhouse sandwich, is commonly made from three slices of toast (usually white), chicken/turkey, ham/bacon, lettuce, tomato and mayonnaise. It's a sandwich found in diners and lunch rooms, and now comes in many variations as well, such as a cheeseburger club.
Why is there a third slice of toast in this sandwich? What is the origin of this sandwich? Let's examine some of the early history of this iconic sandwich, delving into its origins as well.
Various articles have put forth a number of alleged inventors of the sandwich, from the Union Club to the Saratoga Club, as well as individuals such as E. Ely Goddard, Richard Canfield, Alan Johnstone, Mitchell McDonald, and John Campbell. However, evidence for nearly all of those alleged inventors is scant. And we may never know the truth. However, we can trace the evolution of the sandwich, and get a better idea of its origins and history.
In 1879, there was a tantalizing, albeit very brief reference, to a possible “club sandwich.” The Chicago Daily Tribune (IL), January 9, 1879, referred to an “Owl Club sandwich,” but no description of the sandwich was provided and additional information appears lacking. Although this is the first mention of a "Club sandwich," the lack of accompanying information doesn't help determine whether it was an ancestor to the club sandwich we now know.
As a short aside, the Buffalo Weekly Express (NY), July 29, 1886, had an intriguing article on food for picnics. It stated, “The general directions for sandwich manufacture are the same in all cases. Butter the end of the loaf smoothly, slice thin with a keen knife and pare off the crust. Cut in triangles or in long, narrow strips, or give the full size of the loaf slice, as you like.” This is relevant as the club sandwich would eventually follow these rules, having thin sliced, buttered toast, without the crust, and be cut into triangles. That wasn't unique to the club sandwich, but was more a staple of many sandwiches at this time.
Another tantalizing and brief mention was in the San Francisco Examiner (CA), July 29, 1888, as to a “Bohemian Club sandwich,” again though without a description. There would be another reference to this sandwich in a Luncheonette ad in the Petaluma Daily Morning Courier (CA), September 7, 1918, but also without any description.
In 1889, we find the first direct reference, with a description of its contents, to a Club Sandwich, and its potential origin at the Union Club in New York. It should be noted that this sandwich existed at the Club for an unknown amount of time prior to 1889, but it was only in 1889 that the sandwich became known to the general public. And the newspapers at this time seemed to believe the Union Club invented this sandwich.
The Sun (NY), November 18, 1889, published an article entitled, A Dainty Tidbit That Has Made a New York Chef Popular. It's interesting that this sandwich, allegedly created at a men's social club, would be described as "dainty." However, this wouldn't be the first time that the sandwich would be described as dainty over the years.
Various articles have put forth a number of alleged inventors of the sandwich, from the Union Club to the Saratoga Club, as well as individuals such as E. Ely Goddard, Richard Canfield, Alan Johnstone, Mitchell McDonald, and John Campbell. However, evidence for nearly all of those alleged inventors is scant. And we may never know the truth. However, we can trace the evolution of the sandwich, and get a better idea of its origins and history.
In 1879, there was a tantalizing, albeit very brief reference, to a possible “club sandwich.” The Chicago Daily Tribune (IL), January 9, 1879, referred to an “Owl Club sandwich,” but no description of the sandwich was provided and additional information appears lacking. Although this is the first mention of a "Club sandwich," the lack of accompanying information doesn't help determine whether it was an ancestor to the club sandwich we now know.
As a short aside, the Buffalo Weekly Express (NY), July 29, 1886, had an intriguing article on food for picnics. It stated, “The general directions for sandwich manufacture are the same in all cases. Butter the end of the loaf smoothly, slice thin with a keen knife and pare off the crust. Cut in triangles or in long, narrow strips, or give the full size of the loaf slice, as you like.” This is relevant as the club sandwich would eventually follow these rules, having thin sliced, buttered toast, without the crust, and be cut into triangles. That wasn't unique to the club sandwich, but was more a staple of many sandwiches at this time.
Another tantalizing and brief mention was in the San Francisco Examiner (CA), July 29, 1888, as to a “Bohemian Club sandwich,” again though without a description. There would be another reference to this sandwich in a Luncheonette ad in the Petaluma Daily Morning Courier (CA), September 7, 1918, but also without any description.
In 1889, we find the first direct reference, with a description of its contents, to a Club Sandwich, and its potential origin at the Union Club in New York. It should be noted that this sandwich existed at the Club for an unknown amount of time prior to 1889, but it was only in 1889 that the sandwich became known to the general public. And the newspapers at this time seemed to believe the Union Club invented this sandwich.
The Sun (NY), November 18, 1889, published an article entitled, A Dainty Tidbit That Has Made a New York Chef Popular. It's interesting that this sandwich, allegedly created at a men's social club, would be described as "dainty." However, this wouldn't be the first time that the sandwich would be described as dainty over the years.
The article then stated, “A famous institution of the Union Club at Fifth avenue and Twenty-first street is what the epicures of the club have proudly christened “the Union Club sandwich.” It differs essentially from any other sandwich made in the town, and is a particular hobby of the club chef and of club men who like a good thing after the theater or just before their final nightcap. Heretofore the composition of this sandwich has been a mystery to the outside world. The club chef toasts well two slices of Graham bread cut thin, and between them places a layer of chicken or turkey and ham, and serves the sandwich warm.”
Graham bread was a type of brown bread, and only two slices were used. We also see that the fillings were simply chicken/turkey and ham. Some people would later disagree whether the sandwich should have chicken or turkey, but the original sandwich gave the option. The sandwich also lacked lettuce, tomato, or mayonnaise. Over the next twenty years, this basic sandwich would evolve, adding different ingredients, and there would be plenty of variations.
Additional newspapers repeated much of this information. The Evening World (NY), November 18, 1889, mentioned, “Have you tried a Union Club sandwich yet? Two toasted slices of Graham bread, with a layer of turkey or chicken and ham between them, served warm.” The Sullivan Democrat (IN), November 22, 1889, noted, “The Union Club of New York, a tony republican organization has an original sandwich, known as the Union Club Sandwich.”
The Omaha World-Herald (NE), December 10, 1889, expounded a bit on the past history of the Union club sandwich. “The secret of the ‘Union club sandwich’, a delicacy known only to the members of that particular organization, has at length been made public.” It then continued, “…the general public will no longer have to wait six years, pay $1,000 initiation fee and annual dues of $75 before they are privileged to taste of this delectable morsel.” That $1000 fee would be equivalent to about $30,000 in today’s dollars. So, this started off as a very elite sandwich, available only to wealthy men at the Club, until its secret was finally revealed.
There was another reference in The Sun (NY), December 26, 1889, in an article about the Christmas celebration of the Tenderloin Club. “The banquet board consisted of a brand-new pine shelf built around the wall of the club room and groaning under the weight of coffee pots, plates of sinkers, champagne bottles, and Union Club sandwiches of toasted Graham bread buttered, with a thin layer of turkey and ham between.” We see that soon after the big reveal of the make-up of the Union club sandwich, it was also being served at other men’s clubs. This also makes sense as some of the same men belonged to multiple social clubs, so would have talked about the Union club sandwich they enjoyed.
This is also supported by more information about the alleged inventor of the club sandwich. The New York Herald (NY), July 9, 1891, reported on E. Ely Goddard, ex-president of the Fifth Avenue Stage Company, Wall Street speculator, and member of a half dozen fashionable and expensive clubs, including the Union Club. Goddard was also one of the founders of the Tenderloin Club and it was stated that he was “the formulator of the equally famous Union Club sandwich of toasted bread and sliced chicken.”
This would seem to possess some credibility, as it was stated close to the time of the invention of the sandwich. However, in his obituary in the New York Times, October 20, 1910, there was no mention of Goddard's creation of the club sandwich. Later newspapers also seem to omit Goddard as a possible candidate as the inventor of the club sandwich. He is certainly the earliest candidate to be named, but more investigation as to his potential invention of the sandwich is warranted.
The next named candidate alleged to be the sandwich’s creator is Richard Canfield, who purchased Morrissey’s Club House, to be renamed the Saratoga Club, in 1894. Located in Saratoga Springs, this became an exclusive gambling establishment. However, the newspapers making the claim that Canfield was the sandwich inventor didn’t start doing so until the 1950s, after Canfield had passed away.
The Press & Sun-Bulletin (NY), March 29, 1951, mentioned that Canfield’s gambling place was the first to serve club sandwiches. This claim was repeated in the Daily News (NY), June 23, 1963, the Journal News (NY), June 1, 1976, and other later newspapers. However, no details about the creation were provided, and the nature of the sandwich was not described. And as we’ve already seen, the Union Club sandwich predates 1894, when Canfield allegedly created the sandwich, so he cannot possibly be the inventor.
It is also around 1894 that the club sandwich begins to evolve, to add more ingredients, and also gain a reputation as a sandwich that should be eaten with a knife and fork, rather than just your fingers. The Brooklyn Life (NY), October 13, 1894, discussed The Musician’s Club and the club sandwich that was served there. The Club “...has already a toothsome and dainty article of diet peculiar to itself that goes by the name of the ‘club sandwich.’ As it first appears to the eyes of the hungry instrumentalist, it seems merely a plate of delicately tinted, unadorned salad. But below are the bread and meat, chicken or veal, and it is eaten with a knife or fork, the proper method being to make the salad disappear in equal ratio with the other concomitants.”
Two years later, the San Francisco Call (CA), May 24, 1896, reported that “At the Manhattan Club in New York club sandwiches a la Straine, which is pronounced to be excellent, and according to Vanity this delicacy is the usual club sandwich, but in addition to the sliced chicken and lettuce leaf it has a layer of thin broiled bacon and sweet Virginia pickles, likewise a taste of sardines, the delicate piscatorial morceaux being dipped in powdered cracker and fried in its own gravy."
We now see the addition of a lettuce leaf, which would soon become a staple ingredient in the club sandwich, and the substitution of bacon for the ham, which would also become common. The sardines made for an interesting variation, and one which would continue to be popular in some circles. The addition of pickles is also a common variation over the years. However, there still wasn't a third slice of bread.
What do you drink with a club sandwich? One of the standards was a club sandwich with beer, as mentioned in the San Francisco Chronicle (CA), July 26, 1896, the Sun (NY), August 23, 1896, and the Guildhall Essex County Herald (VT), November 20, 1896. The Atlanta Constitution (GA), January 31, 1904, noted "A club sandwich and a glass of beer is an easy little ‘bite’ to serve after the theater or after a game of cards when there is no need for a very elaborate supper.”
The next named candidate alleged to be the sandwich’s creator is Richard Canfield, who purchased Morrissey’s Club House, to be renamed the Saratoga Club, in 1894. Located in Saratoga Springs, this became an exclusive gambling establishment. However, the newspapers making the claim that Canfield was the sandwich inventor didn’t start doing so until the 1950s, after Canfield had passed away.
The Press & Sun-Bulletin (NY), March 29, 1951, mentioned that Canfield’s gambling place was the first to serve club sandwiches. This claim was repeated in the Daily News (NY), June 23, 1963, the Journal News (NY), June 1, 1976, and other later newspapers. However, no details about the creation were provided, and the nature of the sandwich was not described. And as we’ve already seen, the Union Club sandwich predates 1894, when Canfield allegedly created the sandwich, so he cannot possibly be the inventor.
It is also around 1894 that the club sandwich begins to evolve, to add more ingredients, and also gain a reputation as a sandwich that should be eaten with a knife and fork, rather than just your fingers. The Brooklyn Life (NY), October 13, 1894, discussed The Musician’s Club and the club sandwich that was served there. The Club “...has already a toothsome and dainty article of diet peculiar to itself that goes by the name of the ‘club sandwich.’ As it first appears to the eyes of the hungry instrumentalist, it seems merely a plate of delicately tinted, unadorned salad. But below are the bread and meat, chicken or veal, and it is eaten with a knife or fork, the proper method being to make the salad disappear in equal ratio with the other concomitants.”
Two years later, the San Francisco Call (CA), May 24, 1896, reported that “At the Manhattan Club in New York club sandwiches a la Straine, which is pronounced to be excellent, and according to Vanity this delicacy is the usual club sandwich, but in addition to the sliced chicken and lettuce leaf it has a layer of thin broiled bacon and sweet Virginia pickles, likewise a taste of sardines, the delicate piscatorial morceaux being dipped in powdered cracker and fried in its own gravy."
We now see the addition of a lettuce leaf, which would soon become a staple ingredient in the club sandwich, and the substitution of bacon for the ham, which would also become common. The sardines made for an interesting variation, and one which would continue to be popular in some circles. The addition of pickles is also a common variation over the years. However, there still wasn't a third slice of bread.
What do you drink with a club sandwich? One of the standards was a club sandwich with beer, as mentioned in the San Francisco Chronicle (CA), July 26, 1896, the Sun (NY), August 23, 1896, and the Guildhall Essex County Herald (VT), November 20, 1896. The Atlanta Constitution (GA), January 31, 1904, noted "A club sandwich and a glass of beer is an easy little ‘bite’ to serve after the theater or after a game of cards when there is no need for a very elaborate supper.”
Other drinks would also be paired with it in the future, from milk to chocolate. The Washington Post (DC), August 12, 1905, stated, "And a club sandwich without coffee isn’t worth eating.”
In a general article on sandwiches, The Chicago Chronicle (IL), August 20, 1896, made some interesting points. It stated, “A sandwich is anything from two thick hunks of bread with meat between to dainty wafer like bits made to tempt the appetite and rejoice the spirits. Every lunch counter holds the former, not one person in a hundred knows how to present the latter. The well-made sandwich is of inestimable value. As an appetizer there is nothing to equal it. No picnic is complete without it. It is a garden party dish without peer, and it is the proper accompaniment for any touring trip. The demand for it is endless and its variety infinite.”
It continued, mentioning the club sandwich in specifics. “The use of lettuce as a filling for sandwiches is comparatively new, and has met with unqualified favor. Dressed with mayonnaise potatoes and laid with bits of chicken or beef or any other kind of meat between thin slices of toast, it makes claim to the title of club sandwich.” We know see that lettuce and mayonnaise seem to be elements of the club sandwich, although any type of meat is permissible.
The Evening Star (DC), March 13, 1897, also printed an article on sandwiches, noting a house in Washington, D.C. that “….makes and serves to her guests a most delightful club sandwich.” The sandwich was described as such: “These good things were made by slicing very thin the white meat of chicken or turkey, and put with lettuce leaf, which has been dipped in mayonnaise, between slices of bread, cut three cornered. A daintier sandwich cannot be found,..”
Through these years, variations on the club sandwich would arise, using a variety of extra or substitute ingredients, like tongue or a poached egg. The Brooklyn Daily Eagle (NY), April 25, 1897, mentioned that a “Club house sandwich is prepared by putting a lettuce leaf on a thin piece of buttered bread, a thin slice of tongue, ham or turkey on top the lettuce lead, then a poached egg, then a thin slice of ham, a lettuce leaf and last a thin, piece of buttered bread.”
How much did a club sandwich cost? The first price I found was listed in The Journal (CT), May 3, 1897, which advertised a Club Sandwich for 10 cents at the City Market. However, the prices of club sandwiches varied, and they started becoming one of the most expensive sandwiches on lunchroom menus.
This led to a short joke in the Brooklyn Life (NY), August 14, 1897. “Bill: Are you enjoying that club sandwich? Tom: I have to; it cost a quarter.”
In a general article on sandwiches, The Chicago Chronicle (IL), August 20, 1896, made some interesting points. It stated, “A sandwich is anything from two thick hunks of bread with meat between to dainty wafer like bits made to tempt the appetite and rejoice the spirits. Every lunch counter holds the former, not one person in a hundred knows how to present the latter. The well-made sandwich is of inestimable value. As an appetizer there is nothing to equal it. No picnic is complete without it. It is a garden party dish without peer, and it is the proper accompaniment for any touring trip. The demand for it is endless and its variety infinite.”
It continued, mentioning the club sandwich in specifics. “The use of lettuce as a filling for sandwiches is comparatively new, and has met with unqualified favor. Dressed with mayonnaise potatoes and laid with bits of chicken or beef or any other kind of meat between thin slices of toast, it makes claim to the title of club sandwich.” We know see that lettuce and mayonnaise seem to be elements of the club sandwich, although any type of meat is permissible.
The Evening Star (DC), March 13, 1897, also printed an article on sandwiches, noting a house in Washington, D.C. that “….makes and serves to her guests a most delightful club sandwich.” The sandwich was described as such: “These good things were made by slicing very thin the white meat of chicken or turkey, and put with lettuce leaf, which has been dipped in mayonnaise, between slices of bread, cut three cornered. A daintier sandwich cannot be found,..”
Through these years, variations on the club sandwich would arise, using a variety of extra or substitute ingredients, like tongue or a poached egg. The Brooklyn Daily Eagle (NY), April 25, 1897, mentioned that a “Club house sandwich is prepared by putting a lettuce leaf on a thin piece of buttered bread, a thin slice of tongue, ham or turkey on top the lettuce lead, then a poached egg, then a thin slice of ham, a lettuce leaf and last a thin, piece of buttered bread.”
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This led to a short joke in the Brooklyn Life (NY), August 14, 1897. “Bill: Are you enjoying that club sandwich? Tom: I have to; it cost a quarter.”
In Connecticut, the New Haven Daily Morning Journal (CT), December 16, 1898, presented an ad with a lub sandwich advertised for 15 cents. The Xenia Daily Gazette & Torchlight (OH), August 22, 1900, noted that a New York restaurant sold club sandwiches for 30 cents each.
The pricey nature of the club sandwich is well exemplified in an advertisement in the Herald & Review (IL), March 21, 1901. The menu for Greider’s Café was given and a Club House Sandwich cost 25 cents, making it the most expensive sandwich on the menu. A roast beef sandwich only cost 6 cents, while the second most expensive sandwich, ham & egg, cost only 14 cents. Even a sirloin steak entrée with onions only cost 21 cents. Why was the club sandwich so pricey?
The Times Union (NY), September 19, 1902, noted a club sandwich cost 25 cents, about the same as a year ago. The St. Joseph News-Press (MO), May 10, 1903, printed an ad for a café where a Club Sandwich with Bacon cost 25 cents, the same price as a hot roast beef sandwich.
The Kansas City Star (MO), September 23, 1901, published an ad for a club sandwich, mentioning it was a “light luncheon” that was “appreciated by any girl.” The Pittsburgh Press (PA), October 6, 1901, also noted that “Ladies and Gentlemen say Olmstead’s club sandwich best in town.” This was very much a sandwich that appealed to both men and women.
The club sandwich came to Delaware, and other cities, The Sun (DE), December 21, 1901, detailed that “The club sandwich is a present fad at the Vienna bakeries in several large cities, having originated in New York. They can scarcely be called dainty—being much too substantial and hearty—there being veritably ‘three meals and a night’s lodging’ in each, but they furnish an admirable way to present scraps and fragments in fashionable form.” There was a dichotomy here, where sometimes the club sandwich was called dainty, while others referred to it as huge and a full meal.
Their recipe was as follows, “Procure a square, rather short loaf of bread and cut into lengthwise thin slices. Toast these very lightly so that they are barely colored. On each of half the slices lay a piece of cold turkey or chicken, a thin lengthwise slice of dill pickle; next a lettuce leaf, a small piece of boiled ham and a bit of cream cheese; all these, of course, being arranged side by side on the large surface of bread. Spread over all a light coating of mayonnaise and cover with the remaining pieces of toasted bread.” Cream cheese was certainly a unique addition, one not seen in other recipes.
The American Cook Book: One Thousand Selected Recipes (1901), published a recipe as well. “Club Sandwich. For one sandwich, take two square slices of bread, cut the crust off, toast and butter them. One one slice of toast places four pieces of hot fried bacon, then two small lettuce leaves, then some sliced chicken or turkey (sprinkled with salt), three slices of tomatoes; then pour on dressing. Take the other slice of toast and lay on top of this; cut once, from corner to opposite corner, making two triangles; then place on top two slices of tomatoes. Serve at once while hot.” Again, the recipe only called for two slices of toast.
The Northwestern Christian Advocate, Vol. 50 (September 24, 1902), provided some advice on the preparation of the club sandwich. “A club sandwich should have nothing cold in it but the chicken and lettuce. The toast must be made of very spongy fresh bread and must not be buttered. The ham must be cut as thin as possible, broiled quickly and put hot between slices of hot toast. First a slice of hot toast, then a leaf of lettuce, then a slice of cold broiled chicken, then a slice of hot broiled ham, then a leaf of lettuce, then a slice of hot toast, served on a hot plate and served just as quickly as possible. Serve English mustard and mayonnaise in separate dishes. Do not put butter on the sandwiches. Let each person use the different dressings to his own liking.”
Despite the appearance of a third slice of bread in some club sandwich recipes in 1901, two slices continued to be prevalent. The Boston Globe, December 28, 1902, printed a recipe, “Club Sandwich. For 1 sandwich, take 2 square slices of bread, cut the crust off, toast and butter them. On 1 slice of toast place 4 pieces of hot fried bacon, then 2 small lettuce leaves, then some sliced chicken or turkey (sprinkled with salt), 3 slices of tomatoes; then pour on dressing. Take the other slice of toast and lay on top of this; cut once, from corner to opposite corner, making two triangles, then place on top two slices of tomatoes. Serve at once while hot.”
Part Two
The pricey nature of the club sandwich is well exemplified in an advertisement in the Herald & Review (IL), March 21, 1901. The menu for Greider’s Café was given and a Club House Sandwich cost 25 cents, making it the most expensive sandwich on the menu. A roast beef sandwich only cost 6 cents, while the second most expensive sandwich, ham & egg, cost only 14 cents. Even a sirloin steak entrée with onions only cost 21 cents. Why was the club sandwich so pricey?
The Times Union (NY), September 19, 1902, noted a club sandwich cost 25 cents, about the same as a year ago. The St. Joseph News-Press (MO), May 10, 1903, printed an ad for a café where a Club Sandwich with Bacon cost 25 cents, the same price as a hot roast beef sandwich.
The Democrat & Chronicle (NY), September 10, 1904, mentioned a club sandwich at the Astor House cost 40 cents. More details were given in The Inter Ocean (IL), November 11, 1903. “A club sandwich costs 25 cents at any lunch counter or restaurant where the ordinary sandwich is but 10 cents. If cold game enters into the makeup it may cost even as much as 50 cents; but if well built up it is worth that sum.” That shows that the club sandwich was often over twice as expensive as the usual sandwich.
The Fort Wayne Journal-Gazette (IN), December 27, 1903, noted that at the Waldorf-Astoria in New York City, a club sandwich cost 40 cents. In The Daily Times (Iowa), January 2, 1904, there was a café menu where a Club Sandwich cost only 20 cents, which was much less expensive than in other places. The menu also noted a Chicken Salad Sandwich and a Cold Roast Beef Sandwich were each 25 cents. On the other hand, a simple ham sandwich was only 5 cents. And in the Evening Bulletin (HI), February 18, 1904, a café menu had a club house sandwich for 30 cents.
The Argus-Leader (SD), November 25, 1904, presented a cafe menu where a club sandwich cost 25 cents. The Appeal (MN), October 28, 1905, printed a lunch room menu, with a club sandwich also for 25 cents. The Allentown Leader (PA), September 19, 1906, also printed a menu with a club sandwich for ,25 cents and the Grand Forks Herald (ND), November 10, 1906 had a menu with a club sandwich for only 20 cents.
Another variation on the club sandwich was the Coogler Club, described in the Atlanta Constitution (GA), May 30, 1897. “Uncle Bud” Kernedle “…promulgated the Coogler Club sandwich” The article stated, “The Coogler sandwich consists of a slice of ham, two slices of pickles and a slice of turkey placed between thin pieces of light bread, along with a slice of tongue and an artistic touch of mustard.”
Why was it called a “club” sandwich? Most likely because it was invented in a men’s social club, but one newspaper gave a more fanciful origin. The World (NY), July 18, 1897, noted that in Atlantic City, club sandwiches were served at one of the hotels. It then noted, “They call them club sandwiches because there are as many ingredients to a club sandwich as members to a club.” However, as the first known club sandwich only had two ingredients, chicken/turkey and ham, it seems unlikely this origin tale has any validity.
One of the first recipes for a club sandwich was presented in Good Housekeeping: A Monthly Journal, August 1897. “Club Sandwich. Butter two slices of bread; on one place a thin slice of chicken, broil a thin piece of raw ham, and, while hot, place it on the other piece of bread, dip a leaf of lettuce in a small quantity of salad dressing, place it between the meats, making a sandwich; trim and serve as quickly as possible.”
We see the common elements of the club, the use of chicken and ham (although turkey and bacon are valid substitutes), two slices of bread (not three), lettuce, and salad dressing (or mayonnaise). In addition, we should add that this sandwich includes cold and hot elements, for the chicken is cold while the ham and bread are generally supposed to be hot. This would be an important aspect of the sandwich throughout the years.
Another recipe was given in the New York Evening Journal, April 6, 1898, recommending it for children to take to school. “Does your little one go to school and take a lunch? If so, prepare a club sandwich for the luncheon basket. Cut the bread in thin slices, toast and butter. Slice the white meat from a roast chicken, salt, pepper, and add a dash of mustard to suit taste. Put between the layers of chicken a slice of broiled breakfast bacon, not too well done. Lay next to toast two pieces of crisp lettuce, and you have the most palatable as well as healthful thing in the way of sandwiches.” The addition of mustard is an uncommon variation.
Another variation appeared in the Des Moines Register (Iowa), June 18, 1898, which mentioned that in New York City, “The club sandwich, containing nasturtium leaves in place of the conventional lettuce, is meeting with high favor.” This is definitely an idea which didn’t catch on with the general public after a brief time.
Some actresses were mentioned as enjoying club sandwiches. The Cincinnati Commercial Tribune (OH), October 9, 1898, reported that, “May Irwin may be found after the play usually devouring a hot club sandwich and a glass of fresh milk from her own farm.” In addition, “Nella Bergen…enjoys nothing more riotous than a club sandwich and a cup of chocolate in her own rooms after the performance.” Milk and chocolate pairings with a club sandwich! And this would not be the only time we would find someone drinking chocolate with this sandwich.
A brief recipe. The Saint Joseph Herald (MO), October 12, 1898, printed, “Club Sandwich. One slice hot fried ham. One slice cold chicken. Two lettuce leaves. Spread between two slices of toast. Serve on hot plate.”
The club sandwich eventually made its way to Connecticut. The New Haven Daily Morning Journal (CT), December 16, 1898, presented an ad for the Palm Tea Room, with a menu of their selections. There was an area of “Specialties New to New Haven” which included the Club sandwich for 15 cents.
Some people felt that the club sandwich was odd. The Daily Illinois State Journal (IL), July 3, 1899, in an article titled, Queer Gastronomic Fads, noted, “The oddest combination evolved by Americans in the provender line is the club sandwich, which is made up of toast, lettuce, chicken, bacon and mayonnaise sauce.”
Another brief recipe. The Passaic Daily News (NJ), July 26, 1899, noted, “Club Sandwich. Thinly sliced chicken, broiled ham, with lettuce leaves, on thin slices of buttered toast, seasoned to taste.”
An intriguing article in the Philadelphia Times (PA), July 31, 1899, discussed sandwiches, including the Club sandwich. It began, mentioning the number of sandwiches that might exist. “Then some one remarked that she had read in the New York Sun there were sixty-five varieties. Time was when there were but three—ham, tongue and corned beef—with its thin spread of mustard.” I’m not sure about the accuracy of this statement, but it’s interesting nonetheless.
The article continued, “Of combination sandwiches, made with more than one kind of meat, as sandwiches of ham and chicken, chicken and tongue, and so on, there are various kinds, as there are also of sandwiches made of various materials combined, as, for instance, sandwiches made of minced ham and chow chow, sandwiches of chopped chicken, ham and egg, sandwiches of minced tongue and chicken, egg sandwiches and so on.”
Raves to the club sandwich. “One of the best of sandwiches served at a local restaurant is the Club sandwich, made of small, thin pieces of turkey, ham, beef, lettuce, pickles, plenty of red pepper and salt, with an excellent mayonnaise dressing, between two buttered slices of bread, which are cut triangular shape.” This sandwich varied as it also contained beef, a rarity for the club sandwich at this time, and it also had pickles, which would be an occasional addition in later recipes.
More interesting information came in The Morning Post (NC), August 6, 1899, presenting the latest version of the club sandwich. “Mayonnaise is used as a dressing for club sandwiches in all of the best restaurants and hotels. In some of the most thoroughly up-to-date hotels bacon instead of ham is used in making a club sandwich. This is the way to make a club sandwich: Cut some slices of fresh bread, toast them quickly a light brown; lay a crisp leaf of lettuce on a slice of toast; on the lettuce spread a little mayonnaise; next lay a thin slice of the breast of a cold roast chicken, sprinkle it slightly with pepper and salt, on the chicken lay a thin rasher of freshly broiled ham or bacon, quite hot; on this a leaf of lettuce and a little mayonnaise; then put on another slice of toast. Press the whole down with the hand so it is compact, then cut the sandwich across in two triangles and lay it on a hot plate.” Again though, there wasn’t a third slice of toast.
The tomato! The Birmingham Age Herald (AL), August 20, 1899, briefly noted, “…the favorite lunch dish when you don’t want anything is a club sandwich, made of two slices of toast with a slice of chicken and bacon, two lettuce leaves, a slice of tomato and a generous layer of mayonnaise over all.” The addition of the tomato is common going forward, and would become a staple of today’s classic club sandwich.
Another variation. The Catholic Union & Times (NY), September 14, 1899, stated, “Club Sandwich. Slice chicken very thin and broil some shavings of ham. Season to taste with pepper, ketchup or Tabasco sauce and lay between thin slices of buttered toast.” Ketchup or Tabasco? Very few club sandwich recipes would ever include these two ingredients.
The first cookbook to contain a club sandwich recipe is likely Salads, Sandwiches and Chafing-dish Dainties (1899) by Janet McKenzie Hill, editor of “The Boston Cooking-School Magazine.” Most other sources allege that the earliest cookbook recipe was in 1903, but that is clearly incorrect. Hill’s recipe was for Club Sandwiches (Steamer Priscilla style). The Steamer Priscilla was, in 1894, the largest steamboat, able to hold about 1500 passengers, and travelled between Fall River, Massachusetts and New York City.
The recipe stated, “Have ready four triangular pieces of toasted bread spread with mayonnaise dressing; cover two of these with lettuce, lay thin slices of cold chicken (white meat) upon the lettuce, over this arrange slices of broiled breakfast bacon, then lettuce, and cover with the other triangles of toast spread with mayonnaise. Trim neatly, arrange on a plate, and garnish with heart leaves of lettuce dipped in mayonnaise.”
Once again, there’s no mention of a third slice of toast. And if you look at the photo above, you can see it is a much thinner sandwich than what we now call a club sandwich. It certainly is a much more dainty sandwich, and not the huge meal sometimes mentioned in connection to this sandwich.
Another recipe, with variations, including beef. The Philadelphia Inquirer (PA), January 26, 1900, reported on a cooking demonstration at a local Food Exposition conducted by Mrs. Rorer (no first name provided). The article had a recipe for her club sandwich. “Take a whole wheat loaf, butter and slice, and put slice in lettuce leaves, which have been wiped dry. If you use chicken or turkey, cover bread with thin slices of same; next with a thin layer of pickled cucumbers, more turkey, and then another slice of bread. Cut off the crust, and cut diagonally into two pieces. Cover with lettuce leaf. If beef or mutton is used instead of turkey, use one layer of beef and one of tomatoes. The sandwich may be served with mayonnaise or Bearnaise.”
First, we see it called for wheat bread, not white which was the norm. It then included the usual chicken/turkey but no ham or bacon. There were lettuce leaves, as well as pickled cucumbers. The option of using beef or mutton was given, with the addition of tomatoes. And the Bearnaise sauce was another intriguing option.
In Atlantic City, the club sandwich could be found. The Boston Sunday Globe, August 5, 1900, noted, “An Atlantic City hotel serves a club sandwich that is composed of broiled ham, cold chicken, lettuce and mayonnaise dressing between thin toast. This is one of the newest evolutions of a dish that promises to rival hash as a general mixing up of foods. The club sandwich began mildly as a sandwich of cold chicken and lettuce; then warm broiled bacon was added, which in time gave way to ham. The addition of mayonnaise dressing with broiled ham seemed rather startling, but under the mysterious influence of the toast, presumably, it has obtained a reputation among the hotel’s patrons.”
This is close to the current version of the club sandwich, except it still lacks the third slice of bread.
Another recipe was provided, although with a bit more detail than prior ones. The Poughkeepsie Eagle-News (NY), August 17, 1900, stated, “Club sandwiches should be made of thinly-sliced stale bread, bacon, cold roast chicken and salad dressing. In all cases remove the crust of the bread. The bacon should first be broiled and then laid on a rack in a pan, this being placed in an oven, so that in this way all fat is extracted from the bacon and drops into the pan. The bacon becomes crisp and the slices remain flat for spreading between the slices of bread, on which, it may be said, no butter is used. Dark chicken is better for sandwiches than the lighter parts of the fowl, and the meat is better roasted than boiled. This work must be done early enough to have the chickens and bacon perfectly cold before it is used. The chicken and bacon, the edges of the latter being carefully trimmed, are placed between the slices of bread with enough mayonnaise dressing to moisten it all, and this dressing should be added just before the sandwiches are needed, because, by standing long, the mayonnaise will liquify and become absorbed by the bread.”
The creation of this sandwich had become a lengthier and more laborious process, ensuring that the ingredients were carefully prepared and at the correct temperatures.
The club sandwich was mentioned multiple times as a good option during the summer. The New York Times (NY), September 16, 1900, mentioned “The hot toast, the chicken on the lettuce leaves, and the thin slice of fried ham to give an appetizing flavor which one needs in hot weather were all excellent.”
Another variation, with its own name, arose, the New Sterling Club Sandwich. The St. Louis Post Dispatch (MO), September 20, 1900, reportd, “The New Sterling Club Sandwich.—(By Charles M. Ess, chef of the Bennett, Binghamton, N.Y.)—Take the white meat of a boiled fowl, run through the meat-cutting machine and mix with sufficient mayonnaise to make a paste; season very high and set on ice. Toast two thin slices of bread, butter very lightly and spread with the chicken force (not to thick); add very fine shredded hearts of lettuce, trim to diamond shape and serve hot.”
This variation made more of almost a chicken salad, and there was no ham or bacon. And only two slices of toast.
Another variation, which definitely intrigues me, was put forth by the Chicago Tribune (IL), December 16, 1900. “Lamb and duck go well together and slices of them can be laid upon the plates in club sandwich style. Harmony pervades their relations.” As a lover of lamb and duck, this is certainly an alternate version that I would like to taste.
A dainty sandwich. Once again, the club sandwich is mentioned as being dainty. The Nebraska State Journal (NE), April 29, 1901, in an article titled, Sandwiches For Spring, stated, “To make the dainty club sandwich, remove the crust from the white bread and toast, cut into triangles, spread each with mayonnaise dressing, add a Boston lettuce leaf, on this a slice of cold fowl, then a slice of broiled bacon, cover with other triangles of toast, garnish with lettuce and hard-boiled egg.” The hard boiled egg became a common variation, sometimes cut up and added into the sandwich, other times simply as a garnish.
When was the first time that a third slice was added to the Club sandwich? It appears that it was about 12 years after the Union Club sandwich was first discussed in the newspapers. The Daily Times (Iowa), June 22, 1901, would be one of the first newspapers to detail a recipe that included a third slice. Throughout the end of June and into July, this same article was reprinted in various newspapers across the country, including California, District of Columbia, Iowa, Kansas, Maine, Montana, Nebraska, New York, Pennsylvania, Nebraska, Texas, Washington, and Wisconsin. So, many, many people were exposed at this time to the addition of a third slice to the club sandwich.
However, the article failed to detail the reasons why a third slice was added, or even who might have first done it. It seems like that someone added it prior to 1901, and it took a little time for it to become more public, and noticed by the press. From the description of the recipe, it is possible, and logical, the third slice was added to the sandwich to better separate its cold and hot components.
The article stated, “Club Sandwich. This belongs to the salad sandwich group and is very tasty and is quite substantial. Butter the bread, slice thin and cut into oblong shape, lay a lettuce leaf on a buttered slice, on this place a thin slice of chicken; spread with a little mayonnaise, cover with a lettuce leaf and another slice of bread; on the second slice place another leaf and two thin, narrow strips of fried bacon (ham may be used but is rather dry). Cover the bacon with lettuce leaf and slice of bread. Fold neatly in oiled paper. With these sandwiches are served olives and small, sweet pickles. These are especially nice for travelers’ luncheon.”
The Kansas City Star (MO), August 24, 1901, reprinted an article from Good Housekeeping, noting, “Toast a slice of bread evenly and lightly and butter it. On one half put, first, a thin slice of bacon which has been broiled till dry and tender, next a slice of the white meat of either turkey or chicken. Over one-half of this place a circle cut from a ripe tomato and over the other half a tender leaf of lettuce. Cover these with a generous layer of mayonnaise, and complete this delicious ‘whole meal’ sandwich with the remaining piece of toast.” Still only two slices of toast.
The Argus-Leader (SD), November 25, 1904, presented a cafe menu where a club sandwich cost 25 cents. The Appeal (MN), October 28, 1905, printed a lunch room menu, with a club sandwich also for 25 cents. The Allentown Leader (PA), September 19, 1906, also printed a menu with a club sandwich for ,25 cents and the Grand Forks Herald (ND), November 10, 1906 had a menu with a club sandwich for only 20 cents.
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Why was it called a “club” sandwich? Most likely because it was invented in a men’s social club, but one newspaper gave a more fanciful origin. The World (NY), July 18, 1897, noted that in Atlantic City, club sandwiches were served at one of the hotels. It then noted, “They call them club sandwiches because there are as many ingredients to a club sandwich as members to a club.” However, as the first known club sandwich only had two ingredients, chicken/turkey and ham, it seems unlikely this origin tale has any validity.
One of the first recipes for a club sandwich was presented in Good Housekeeping: A Monthly Journal, August 1897. “Club Sandwich. Butter two slices of bread; on one place a thin slice of chicken, broil a thin piece of raw ham, and, while hot, place it on the other piece of bread, dip a leaf of lettuce in a small quantity of salad dressing, place it between the meats, making a sandwich; trim and serve as quickly as possible.”
We see the common elements of the club, the use of chicken and ham (although turkey and bacon are valid substitutes), two slices of bread (not three), lettuce, and salad dressing (or mayonnaise). In addition, we should add that this sandwich includes cold and hot elements, for the chicken is cold while the ham and bread are generally supposed to be hot. This would be an important aspect of the sandwich throughout the years.
Another recipe was given in the New York Evening Journal, April 6, 1898, recommending it for children to take to school. “Does your little one go to school and take a lunch? If so, prepare a club sandwich for the luncheon basket. Cut the bread in thin slices, toast and butter. Slice the white meat from a roast chicken, salt, pepper, and add a dash of mustard to suit taste. Put between the layers of chicken a slice of broiled breakfast bacon, not too well done. Lay next to toast two pieces of crisp lettuce, and you have the most palatable as well as healthful thing in the way of sandwiches.” The addition of mustard is an uncommon variation.
Another variation appeared in the Des Moines Register (Iowa), June 18, 1898, which mentioned that in New York City, “The club sandwich, containing nasturtium leaves in place of the conventional lettuce, is meeting with high favor.” This is definitely an idea which didn’t catch on with the general public after a brief time.
Some actresses were mentioned as enjoying club sandwiches. The Cincinnati Commercial Tribune (OH), October 9, 1898, reported that, “May Irwin may be found after the play usually devouring a hot club sandwich and a glass of fresh milk from her own farm.” In addition, “Nella Bergen…enjoys nothing more riotous than a club sandwich and a cup of chocolate in her own rooms after the performance.” Milk and chocolate pairings with a club sandwich! And this would not be the only time we would find someone drinking chocolate with this sandwich.
A brief recipe. The Saint Joseph Herald (MO), October 12, 1898, printed, “Club Sandwich. One slice hot fried ham. One slice cold chicken. Two lettuce leaves. Spread between two slices of toast. Serve on hot plate.”
The club sandwich eventually made its way to Connecticut. The New Haven Daily Morning Journal (CT), December 16, 1898, presented an ad for the Palm Tea Room, with a menu of their selections. There was an area of “Specialties New to New Haven” which included the Club sandwich for 15 cents.
Some people felt that the club sandwich was odd. The Daily Illinois State Journal (IL), July 3, 1899, in an article titled, Queer Gastronomic Fads, noted, “The oddest combination evolved by Americans in the provender line is the club sandwich, which is made up of toast, lettuce, chicken, bacon and mayonnaise sauce.”
Another brief recipe. The Passaic Daily News (NJ), July 26, 1899, noted, “Club Sandwich. Thinly sliced chicken, broiled ham, with lettuce leaves, on thin slices of buttered toast, seasoned to taste.”
An intriguing article in the Philadelphia Times (PA), July 31, 1899, discussed sandwiches, including the Club sandwich. It began, mentioning the number of sandwiches that might exist. “Then some one remarked that she had read in the New York Sun there were sixty-five varieties. Time was when there were but three—ham, tongue and corned beef—with its thin spread of mustard.” I’m not sure about the accuracy of this statement, but it’s interesting nonetheless.
The article continued, “Of combination sandwiches, made with more than one kind of meat, as sandwiches of ham and chicken, chicken and tongue, and so on, there are various kinds, as there are also of sandwiches made of various materials combined, as, for instance, sandwiches made of minced ham and chow chow, sandwiches of chopped chicken, ham and egg, sandwiches of minced tongue and chicken, egg sandwiches and so on.”
Raves to the club sandwich. “One of the best of sandwiches served at a local restaurant is the Club sandwich, made of small, thin pieces of turkey, ham, beef, lettuce, pickles, plenty of red pepper and salt, with an excellent mayonnaise dressing, between two buttered slices of bread, which are cut triangular shape.” This sandwich varied as it also contained beef, a rarity for the club sandwich at this time, and it also had pickles, which would be an occasional addition in later recipes.
More interesting information came in The Morning Post (NC), August 6, 1899, presenting the latest version of the club sandwich. “Mayonnaise is used as a dressing for club sandwiches in all of the best restaurants and hotels. In some of the most thoroughly up-to-date hotels bacon instead of ham is used in making a club sandwich. This is the way to make a club sandwich: Cut some slices of fresh bread, toast them quickly a light brown; lay a crisp leaf of lettuce on a slice of toast; on the lettuce spread a little mayonnaise; next lay a thin slice of the breast of a cold roast chicken, sprinkle it slightly with pepper and salt, on the chicken lay a thin rasher of freshly broiled ham or bacon, quite hot; on this a leaf of lettuce and a little mayonnaise; then put on another slice of toast. Press the whole down with the hand so it is compact, then cut the sandwich across in two triangles and lay it on a hot plate.” Again though, there wasn’t a third slice of toast.
The tomato! The Birmingham Age Herald (AL), August 20, 1899, briefly noted, “…the favorite lunch dish when you don’t want anything is a club sandwich, made of two slices of toast with a slice of chicken and bacon, two lettuce leaves, a slice of tomato and a generous layer of mayonnaise over all.” The addition of the tomato is common going forward, and would become a staple of today’s classic club sandwich.
Another variation. The Catholic Union & Times (NY), September 14, 1899, stated, “Club Sandwich. Slice chicken very thin and broil some shavings of ham. Season to taste with pepper, ketchup or Tabasco sauce and lay between thin slices of buttered toast.” Ketchup or Tabasco? Very few club sandwich recipes would ever include these two ingredients.
The first cookbook to contain a club sandwich recipe is likely Salads, Sandwiches and Chafing-dish Dainties (1899) by Janet McKenzie Hill, editor of “The Boston Cooking-School Magazine.” Most other sources allege that the earliest cookbook recipe was in 1903, but that is clearly incorrect. Hill’s recipe was for Club Sandwiches (Steamer Priscilla style). The Steamer Priscilla was, in 1894, the largest steamboat, able to hold about 1500 passengers, and travelled between Fall River, Massachusetts and New York City.
The recipe stated, “Have ready four triangular pieces of toasted bread spread with mayonnaise dressing; cover two of these with lettuce, lay thin slices of cold chicken (white meat) upon the lettuce, over this arrange slices of broiled breakfast bacon, then lettuce, and cover with the other triangles of toast spread with mayonnaise. Trim neatly, arrange on a plate, and garnish with heart leaves of lettuce dipped in mayonnaise.”
Once again, there’s no mention of a third slice of toast. And if you look at the photo above, you can see it is a much thinner sandwich than what we now call a club sandwich. It certainly is a much more dainty sandwich, and not the huge meal sometimes mentioned in connection to this sandwich.
Another recipe, with variations, including beef. The Philadelphia Inquirer (PA), January 26, 1900, reported on a cooking demonstration at a local Food Exposition conducted by Mrs. Rorer (no first name provided). The article had a recipe for her club sandwich. “Take a whole wheat loaf, butter and slice, and put slice in lettuce leaves, which have been wiped dry. If you use chicken or turkey, cover bread with thin slices of same; next with a thin layer of pickled cucumbers, more turkey, and then another slice of bread. Cut off the crust, and cut diagonally into two pieces. Cover with lettuce leaf. If beef or mutton is used instead of turkey, use one layer of beef and one of tomatoes. The sandwich may be served with mayonnaise or Bearnaise.”
First, we see it called for wheat bread, not white which was the norm. It then included the usual chicken/turkey but no ham or bacon. There were lettuce leaves, as well as pickled cucumbers. The option of using beef or mutton was given, with the addition of tomatoes. And the Bearnaise sauce was another intriguing option.
In Atlantic City, the club sandwich could be found. The Boston Sunday Globe, August 5, 1900, noted, “An Atlantic City hotel serves a club sandwich that is composed of broiled ham, cold chicken, lettuce and mayonnaise dressing between thin toast. This is one of the newest evolutions of a dish that promises to rival hash as a general mixing up of foods. The club sandwich began mildly as a sandwich of cold chicken and lettuce; then warm broiled bacon was added, which in time gave way to ham. The addition of mayonnaise dressing with broiled ham seemed rather startling, but under the mysterious influence of the toast, presumably, it has obtained a reputation among the hotel’s patrons.”
This is close to the current version of the club sandwich, except it still lacks the third slice of bread.
Another recipe was provided, although with a bit more detail than prior ones. The Poughkeepsie Eagle-News (NY), August 17, 1900, stated, “Club sandwiches should be made of thinly-sliced stale bread, bacon, cold roast chicken and salad dressing. In all cases remove the crust of the bread. The bacon should first be broiled and then laid on a rack in a pan, this being placed in an oven, so that in this way all fat is extracted from the bacon and drops into the pan. The bacon becomes crisp and the slices remain flat for spreading between the slices of bread, on which, it may be said, no butter is used. Dark chicken is better for sandwiches than the lighter parts of the fowl, and the meat is better roasted than boiled. This work must be done early enough to have the chickens and bacon perfectly cold before it is used. The chicken and bacon, the edges of the latter being carefully trimmed, are placed between the slices of bread with enough mayonnaise dressing to moisten it all, and this dressing should be added just before the sandwiches are needed, because, by standing long, the mayonnaise will liquify and become absorbed by the bread.”
The creation of this sandwich had become a lengthier and more laborious process, ensuring that the ingredients were carefully prepared and at the correct temperatures.
The club sandwich was mentioned multiple times as a good option during the summer. The New York Times (NY), September 16, 1900, mentioned “The hot toast, the chicken on the lettuce leaves, and the thin slice of fried ham to give an appetizing flavor which one needs in hot weather were all excellent.”
Another variation, with its own name, arose, the New Sterling Club Sandwich. The St. Louis Post Dispatch (MO), September 20, 1900, reportd, “The New Sterling Club Sandwich.—(By Charles M. Ess, chef of the Bennett, Binghamton, N.Y.)—Take the white meat of a boiled fowl, run through the meat-cutting machine and mix with sufficient mayonnaise to make a paste; season very high and set on ice. Toast two thin slices of bread, butter very lightly and spread with the chicken force (not to thick); add very fine shredded hearts of lettuce, trim to diamond shape and serve hot.”
This variation made more of almost a chicken salad, and there was no ham or bacon. And only two slices of toast.
Another variation, which definitely intrigues me, was put forth by the Chicago Tribune (IL), December 16, 1900. “Lamb and duck go well together and slices of them can be laid upon the plates in club sandwich style. Harmony pervades their relations.” As a lover of lamb and duck, this is certainly an alternate version that I would like to taste.
A dainty sandwich. Once again, the club sandwich is mentioned as being dainty. The Nebraska State Journal (NE), April 29, 1901, in an article titled, Sandwiches For Spring, stated, “To make the dainty club sandwich, remove the crust from the white bread and toast, cut into triangles, spread each with mayonnaise dressing, add a Boston lettuce leaf, on this a slice of cold fowl, then a slice of broiled bacon, cover with other triangles of toast, garnish with lettuce and hard-boiled egg.” The hard boiled egg became a common variation, sometimes cut up and added into the sandwich, other times simply as a garnish.
When was the first time that a third slice was added to the Club sandwich? It appears that it was about 12 years after the Union Club sandwich was first discussed in the newspapers. The Daily Times (Iowa), June 22, 1901, would be one of the first newspapers to detail a recipe that included a third slice. Throughout the end of June and into July, this same article was reprinted in various newspapers across the country, including California, District of Columbia, Iowa, Kansas, Maine, Montana, Nebraska, New York, Pennsylvania, Nebraska, Texas, Washington, and Wisconsin. So, many, many people were exposed at this time to the addition of a third slice to the club sandwich.
However, the article failed to detail the reasons why a third slice was added, or even who might have first done it. It seems like that someone added it prior to 1901, and it took a little time for it to become more public, and noticed by the press. From the description of the recipe, it is possible, and logical, the third slice was added to the sandwich to better separate its cold and hot components.
The article stated, “Club Sandwich. This belongs to the salad sandwich group and is very tasty and is quite substantial. Butter the bread, slice thin and cut into oblong shape, lay a lettuce leaf on a buttered slice, on this place a thin slice of chicken; spread with a little mayonnaise, cover with a lettuce leaf and another slice of bread; on the second slice place another leaf and two thin, narrow strips of fried bacon (ham may be used but is rather dry). Cover the bacon with lettuce leaf and slice of bread. Fold neatly in oiled paper. With these sandwiches are served olives and small, sweet pickles. These are especially nice for travelers’ luncheon.”
The Kansas City Star (MO), August 24, 1901, reprinted an article from Good Housekeeping, noting, “Toast a slice of bread evenly and lightly and butter it. On one half put, first, a thin slice of bacon which has been broiled till dry and tender, next a slice of the white meat of either turkey or chicken. Over one-half of this place a circle cut from a ripe tomato and over the other half a tender leaf of lettuce. Cover these with a generous layer of mayonnaise, and complete this delicious ‘whole meal’ sandwich with the remaining piece of toast.” Still only two slices of toast.
Numerous sources asserted that the oldest club sandwich recipe was presented in the Good Housekeeping Everyday Cook Book (1903) by Isabel Gordon Curtis, although obviously the recipe was published earlier than that, in 1899 in Salads, Sandwiches and Chafing-dish Dainties. The 1903 Good Housekeeping recipe was also the exact same one as published in the above mentioned Kansas City Star (MO), August 24, 1901.
The club sandwich came to Delaware, and other cities, The Sun (DE), December 21, 1901, detailed that “The club sandwich is a present fad at the Vienna bakeries in several large cities, having originated in New York. They can scarcely be called dainty—being much too substantial and hearty—there being veritably ‘three meals and a night’s lodging’ in each, but they furnish an admirable way to present scraps and fragments in fashionable form.” There was a dichotomy here, where sometimes the club sandwich was called dainty, while others referred to it as huge and a full meal.
Their recipe was as follows, “Procure a square, rather short loaf of bread and cut into lengthwise thin slices. Toast these very lightly so that they are barely colored. On each of half the slices lay a piece of cold turkey or chicken, a thin lengthwise slice of dill pickle; next a lettuce leaf, a small piece of boiled ham and a bit of cream cheese; all these, of course, being arranged side by side on the large surface of bread. Spread over all a light coating of mayonnaise and cover with the remaining pieces of toasted bread.” Cream cheese was certainly a unique addition, one not seen in other recipes.
The American Cook Book: One Thousand Selected Recipes (1901), published a recipe as well. “Club Sandwich. For one sandwich, take two square slices of bread, cut the crust off, toast and butter them. One one slice of toast places four pieces of hot fried bacon, then two small lettuce leaves, then some sliced chicken or turkey (sprinkled with salt), three slices of tomatoes; then pour on dressing. Take the other slice of toast and lay on top of this; cut once, from corner to opposite corner, making two triangles; then place on top two slices of tomatoes. Serve at once while hot.” Again, the recipe only called for two slices of toast.
The Northwestern Christian Advocate, Vol. 50 (September 24, 1902), provided some advice on the preparation of the club sandwich. “A club sandwich should have nothing cold in it but the chicken and lettuce. The toast must be made of very spongy fresh bread and must not be buttered. The ham must be cut as thin as possible, broiled quickly and put hot between slices of hot toast. First a slice of hot toast, then a leaf of lettuce, then a slice of cold broiled chicken, then a slice of hot broiled ham, then a leaf of lettuce, then a slice of hot toast, served on a hot plate and served just as quickly as possible. Serve English mustard and mayonnaise in separate dishes. Do not put butter on the sandwiches. Let each person use the different dressings to his own liking.”
Despite the appearance of a third slice of bread in some club sandwich recipes in 1901, two slices continued to be prevalent. The Boston Globe, December 28, 1902, printed a recipe, “Club Sandwich. For 1 sandwich, take 2 square slices of bread, cut the crust off, toast and butter them. On 1 slice of toast place 4 pieces of hot fried bacon, then 2 small lettuce leaves, then some sliced chicken or turkey (sprinkled with salt), 3 slices of tomatoes; then pour on dressing. Take the other slice of toast and lay on top of this; cut once, from corner to opposite corner, making two triangles, then place on top two slices of tomatoes. Serve at once while hot.”
Part Two
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